Re: [lace] colour in lace etc.
In a message dated 25/03/2004 19:31:33 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: how does Fimo work for making beads for spangles? Some of my very first painted bobbins bought in the early 1980s came with Fimo beads colour co-ordinated with the painting and they still look like new after 20 years. They are a matt finish having not been varnished, but now I work with Fimo myself I know that by using the very fine wet and dry polishing papers it is possible to get a mirror-like surface. Time consuming though and not practical for a commercial enterprise with cost restraints, but for a few beads that you are making for your own special bobbins it is worth it. Lots of polymer clay sites on the internet and a quick google search will find them. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] colour in lace etc.
On 25 Mar 2004, at 19:20, rick sharon wrote: I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her Honiton? :) I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough? If there is, I wants it!:) The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same thickness as Egyptian gassed 80/2. If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk. Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian Gassed 140/2 Brenda http://www.argonet.co.uk/users/paternoster/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] colour in lace etc.
Sharon wrote: I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her Honiton? :) I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough? If there is, I wants it!:) The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same thickness as Egyptian gassed 80/2. If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk. Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian Gassed 140/2 Brenda === Bjarne has 120 (3 ply) and 250 (3 ply) unboiled silk in colors. I have several of the colors and it is wonderfully fine and wonderfully strong. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] colour in lace etc.
Sharon wrote: I must know...what thread was Miriam using to do colour in her Honiton? :) I've always thought honiton screams for very subtle colouring..is there coloured thread out there that is fine enough? If there is, I wants it!:) The finest coloured cootn thread I know of is Tanne/Cotona 80 - same thickness as Egyptian gassed 80/2. If you want colour in finer than that it would have to be silk. Piper's Fine Twisted silk comes in colours and compares to Egyptian Gassed 140/2 Brenda === Bjarne has 120 (3 ply) and 250 (3 ply) unboiled silk in colors. I have several of the colors and it is wonderfully fine and wonderfully strong. http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/silkefarver.htm Also Piper's Silks has Fine Twisted Silk, 2/20, 4/20, 6/20 in colors. http://www.pipers-silks.com/ 2/20 silk, now that's what I call invisible thread! Patty Dowden - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re [lace] colour in lace etc.
. . . About green threads. I knew a lady who wanted to clean an antique embroidery, which she did very gently and very carefully in distilled water. The whole thing turned out beautifully except the green. It just disintegrated and not a hair was left. At the time I wondered whether it was the chemical composition of the dye itself. I have run up against this a couple of times since with things I have bought at flea markets, and it's always the green thread that falls apart. Interesting. Sharon = Hi Sharon, I have to think that it is the chemical composition of the green dye stuff. A friend of mine used to make kites from ripstop nylon fabric. In spite of being the same fabric in the same weight from the same manufacturer, the hand of the fabric differed by color rather dramatically. As I recall, the yellow was quite stiff and the purple was soft and flowing. We know that the black dyes used in the 19th century are eating the fabrics they were applied to because of their iron oxide content. That means that most Chantilly is slowly dy(e)ing and is already mostly too fragile to actually wear. Modern dye manufacture is often stymied by ecological constraints into using less than optimal formulations. It seems to me that probably something in the green dye stuffs (some mineral oxide in a solvent) are not easy to bring to a neutral or near neutral state or that once stable, they degrade over time, which also probably means that they oxidize. Oddly, since I like to make lace in wire, a nice bright royal blue wire is non-existent. Maybe for the same kind of reason. Modern enamelled wire is actually coated with polyester much of the time. In any case, it isn't really enamel and doesn't come in a nice bright blue. End of musings . . . Patty - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re [lace] colour in lace etc.
The effect of dyes appears to be quite marked in the rayon sold as crochet silk to day. The pale colours are soft and good to work with but the dark blues and black in the range are so harsh that I would not use them. I have a black shawl in black rayon from many years ago and it is delightful both in appearance and the drape. I have looked without success for thread to work a similar one. Barbara Ballantyne in Sunny Sydney, australia - Original Message - From: Patricia Dowden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 26, 2004 9:48 AM Subject: Re [lace] colour in lace etc. . . . About green threads. I knew a lady who wanted to clean an antique embroidery, which she did very gently and very carefully in distilled water. The whole thing turned out beautifully except the green. It just disintegrated and not a hair was left. At the time I wondered whether it was the chemical composition of the dye itself. I have run up against this a couple of times since with things I have bought at flea markets, and it's always the green thread that falls apart. Interesting. Sharon = Hi Sharon, I have to think that it is the chemical composition of the green dye stuff. A friend of mine used to make kites from ripstop nylon fabric. In spite of being the same fabric in the same weight from the same manufacturer, the hand of the fabric differed by color rather dramatically. As I recall, the yellow was quite stiff and the purple was soft and flowing. We know that the black dyes used in the 19th century are eating the fabrics they were applied to because of their iron oxide content. That means that most Chantilly is slowly dy(e)ing and is already mostly too fragile to actually wear. Modern dye manufacture is often stymied by ecological constraints into using less than optimal formulations. It seems to me that probably something in the green dye stuffs (some mineral oxide in a solvent) are not easy to bring to a neutral or near neutral state or that once stable, they degrade over time, which also probably means that they oxidize. Oddly, since I like to make lace in wire, a nice bright royal blue wire is non-existent. Maybe for the same kind of reason. Modern enamelled wire is actually coated with polyester much of the time. In any case, it isn't really enamel and doesn't come in a nice bright blue. End of musings . . . Patty - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
