Re: ZDDP levels
Joe, From my research anything under 1200 pm zinc is starting to get to the marginal point. I agree. I think to make it easy on our cars, stick with any of the big brand oils that have a Racing designation. They all seem to be very high, 1800 ppm and up of zinc. Basically, yes, except Valvoline racing oils, including the not for street use racing oils, seem to be on the low side in zinc and phosphorous. That doesn't make since. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Castrol ZDDP response
How does the musclecar-era SG spec stack up? Approximately 0.150% (1500ppm) zinc and 0.140% (1400ppm) phosphorous for 1060-1980 engine oils. The racing oils use 1/3 more to promote better ring seal to the cylinder walls for high RPM power production. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Castrol ZDDP response
List, Also from the motorcycle people, which has direct bearing on our Olds engines. http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_oil.html ADDITIVES: All major motor oils (motorcycle motor oils included), contain some degree of additives designed to help reduce (primarily) viscosity breakdown, by reducing or eliminating as many possible causes as is cost-effectively feasible. The major additives include Zinc, Phosphorus, Magnesium, Calcium, Boron. Additionally, various chemicals are added to operate as detergents, which help ensure contaminants stay suspended in the oil rather than adhering to surfaces. Then they often toss in something designed to help ensure oil seals stay healthy and swollen (so you don't get oil leaks). Plus they toss in some anti-foaming agents (to keep the oil from frothing as it's churned). And then some manufacturers also add graphite, teflon (PFTE), and/or molybdenum as an anti-wear agent, NONE OF WHICH (graphite/PFTE/Moly) ARE RECOMMENDED FOR WET-CLUTCH MOTORCYCLES; these last chemicals are also contained in many of the off-the-shelf oil additive packages like DuraLife and Extend50. a.. Zinc and Phosphorus -- the two primary metal anti-wear additives. Their purpose is to provide some degree of lubrication for metal-to-metal contact when oil pressure is too low (such as bearing surfaces while starting an engine). These two chemicals are usually packaged together by additive companies for the oil companies to use, as zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP), and the oil companies add varying amounts to different formulations of their oils. Good for your engine, but high contents of it may foul catalytic converters if present. Note that motorcycles requiring API SF, API SG or API SH are not served by API SJ and API SL rated motor oils, as SJ and SL are lower in ZDDP quantities (and SJ/SL are car-specific, not rated for motorcycles by the API). b.. Magnesium, Calcium and Boron -- these are used as anti-corrosives, to prevent the formation of various chemicals which break down viscosity, including sulfuric acid. Neutralizing these acids helps keep the oil effective as a lubricant. The result is also that these chemicals help keep sludge and varnish from forming. Again, different motor oil manufacturers add different amounts of these chemicals to their various formulations (from none to lots). c.. Detergents -- too many possibilities to list, but they help ensure that by-products (varnish, sheared oil, dirt, dust, etc) stay suspended in the oil rather than adhering to the metal surfaces of the engine. d.. Graphite, Molybdenum (aka Moly aka molybdenum disulfide) -- appear in some automotive motor oils and many aftermarket oil additives, and unfortunately, in some motorcycle oils. These chemicals are good anti-wear, anti-scuffing additives, but are totally incompatible with motorcycles which have wet clutches! Note that molybdenum is normally used in anti-seize paste in the USA as the primary ingredient (the type you put on your spark plugs and wheel bolts). e.. Teflon (aka poly tetrafluoroethylene or PFTE) -- Teflon in specific is not intended for engines of any type according to it's original manufacturer (Dupont), and you should never use a product containing teflon in the oil system of any engine. Furthermore, it is 100% incompatible with any motorcycle using a wet-clutch. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Zinc levels in oil
Mark, I'll add that to my list. Where did you get the specs? I tried their website, but couldn't find a spec sheet. What about the content for 15W40, 30W, and 40W? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: mark mullins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:12 AM Subject: Re: Zinc levels in oil On Sunday 24 December 2006 17:58,Milton wrote: Can you come up with specs for Chevron Delo showing the zinc and phosphorous content? Delo 400 10w30 Phosphorous 0.126 Zinc 0.140 M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.28/604 - Release Date: 12/26/2006 12:23 PM
Re: Zinc levels in oil
Matt, Second, From following the list and some reading it looks like deisel oil, such as shell rotella is a good choice for our Olds engines? Yes, it is, until Shell lowers the zinc and phosphorous content to comply with the EPA and the OEM Diesel mfgs. I regularly drive my 72 98 (original 455), can I run 15W40 in it? I usually run 10W40 in the summer and 10W30 in the winter. Yes, 15W40 would work fine. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Castrol ZDDP response
Kevin, That's just ass backwards! Everybody else states the oil grade should be a SG, SH, or SJ for the highest possible level of zinc and phosphorous. The SL and SM grades are the new grades to stay far away from. Do these guys at Castrol really know which end is up? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 5:38 AM Subject: Castrol ZDDP response I finally got around to contacting Castrol oil via their inquiry page, which address was posted to this list some time ago. This is their response: Thank you for contacting Castrol North America. Castrol is aware of articles in enthusiast magazines and web-sites, as well as after-market parts manufacturer discussions concerning GF-4 engine oils and cam-shaft durability issues in older performance vehicles. Some consumers suspect the lower level of ZDDP in GF-4 oils may be causing these failures. Castrol is currently investigating this issue. If you wish not to use a GF-4 oil in your 1970 Cutlass, Castrol does offer the following products that contain Zinc at a level that is higher than the Zinc level found in oils (API SG) marketed during the muscle car era of time: * Castrol GTX 20W-50 (SL,SM) * Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL) * Castrol GTX High Mileage 20W-50 (SL,SM) * Castrol HD 30 (SL,SM) * Castrol HD 40 (SL,SM) * Castrol Syntec Blend Truck 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)(Semi- synthetic) * Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 (CI4Plus, CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,SL) * Castrol Hypuron S 15W-40 (CI4Plus,CH4,CG4,SL)(Semi-synthetic) Thank you again for your continuing patronage. Castrol Consumer Relations On digest mode, so I'm a little slow... Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX http:// www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html '71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: http://www.wankel.net/ ~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :) ...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be parts if someone doesn't buy it! -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.28/604 - Release Date: 12/26/2006 12:23 PM
Re: Zinc levels in oil
Marty, Outside of what Mark said, there basically isn't. The article that raised the warning in Hot Rod Magazine is the best source, but it only covers Quaker State synthetic racing oil, Pennzoil Racing Oil, and Shell Rotella. You can go to the individual oil company website and look up the oil and read the spec sheet, but sometimes the zinc and phosphorous content isn't listed. For Kendall oils, the zinc was listed. For Pennzoil Racing Oil, is wasn't listed. You just have to search and read. Directly from the Hot Rod article, June 2006, When Good Cams Go Bad: SH API oil rating 1996 zinc = 0.130%, 1130ppm (parts per million) phosphorous = 0.120%, 1120ppm SJ API oil rating 2001 SL API oil rating 2004 zinc = 0.110%, 1100ppm phosphorous = 0.100%, 1000ppm SM API oil rating 2005 zinc = 0.087%, 870ppm phosphorous = 0.080%, 800ppm Cosworth Racing Oil zinc = 0.125%, 1250ppm phosphorous = 0.115%, 1150ppm Shell Rotella T zinc = 0.140%, 1400ppm phosphorous = 0.130%, 1300ppm Pennzoil 25W-50 Racing Oil zinc = 0.196%, 1960ppm phosphorous = 0.180%, 1800ppm Quaker State Q Racing Synthetic zinc = 0.200%, 2000ppm phosphorous = 0.180%, 1800ppm Obviously, the 4 oils above do not have an API rating for newer engines. Their rating would be SH or SG. Pennzoil Racing is SG. Rotella is SH/SJ. From the Kendall website for GT-1, which I've used since 1964 and now can no longer use for fear of cam and lifter damage: Kendall GT-1 amber 40W. Older green GT-1 was used in Thunder and still have 5 quarts of the green oil left. New GT-1 color is amber. Green GT-1 has high zinc and phosphorous content. Amber GT-1 has low content. zinc = 0.104%, 1040ppm Kendal GT-1 amber 30W. Older green GT-1 was used in the other Olds engines. zinc = 0.104%, 1040ppm Kendal GT-1 amber 20W-50 zinc = 0.113%, 1130ppm Kendal GT-1 amber 10W-40 zinc = 0.086%, 860ppm Marty, that's where our engine oil for our older engines has gone, to-Hell-in-a-handbasket. You'll have to search out the rest of the info for other brands on your own. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Marty McLeod [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 5:58 AM Subject: Re: Zinc levels in oil Milton Is there a web page or somewhere on the web that I can go to find out a breakdown of all the oil manufacturers and how much zinc each has in there oil. Also, what is the minimum amount required to run in our older engines. I want to look in to all before making a decision on what to run. Thanks and I want to wish a Merry Christmas to all. Marty McLeod
Re: Zinc levels in oil
Mark, Can you come up with specs for Chevron Delo showing the zinc and phosphorous content? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: mark mullins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 4:08 PM Subject: Re: Zinc levels in oil On Sunday 24 December 2006 15:38, Milton wrote: I don't know. Comp Cams says to run shell Rotella in our older engines to get enough zinc and phosphorous. Get the June issue of Hot Rod and keep that article. Rotella puts the zinc level up to 1400ppm. Since the EPA is going to bitch at the OEM Diesel mfgs to require cats on Diesels, the zinc and phosphorous will get cut in Rotella. I'm going with Pennzoil Racing Oil at 1960ppm zinc. Chevron Delo claims that they're keeping their diesel oil the same. I don't recall specifics, but I plan on switching the Olds to that next time. M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Have an Oldsmobile Christmas
Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night! Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Plug gap
Bill, Look at http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html and http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html The clean plugs indicate the engine has no oil entering the combustion chamber and the use of unleaded gas. You don't say where the rust color was located, center or outer electrode? Also, what does the insulator look like? Look at the above websites and then describe your plugs more precisely. Milton Schick 1964 c442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Bill G [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 9:56 PM Subject: RE: Plug gap Thanks for all the responses I got on the plug gap. What had happened is my son changed the wires and plugs while I was at work, the guy at the auto parts told him to set the gap at .035 so he did. I did not think it was correct but I could not remember. When he picked me up from work it was running smoother (wires) but no power. My son re gapped them at .060 before he took me to work today. I really enjoyed the ride to work this morning. Of course this is the 67 Delta 88 Custom I'm talking about. On another note the plugs he took out, the tips have a rust color look to them, no build up of any kind all were basically clean except a reddish brown color. Anyone have an idea as to lean/rich or is it due to todays fuel. Bill G 67 Delta 88 Custom ( I get to drive tomorrow) 87 Custom Wagon ( Can't drive yet) 69 Delta 88 (Be mine soon) 72 Linc. Cont.(needs to go) -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/598 - Release Date: 12/22/2006 3:22 PM
Re: Everything new is old, or, nothing new under the sun.
Kevin, H. I didn't get that post. That could have been when my server was loosing E-mails or when Chebucto was messing up. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 5:22 PM Subject: Re: Everything new is old, or, nothing new under the sun. Here's a copy of what I sent to the list 12/15/06 : From the 12/07/06 issue of Hemmings eWeekly email newsletter, under the Legislation heading: 'The debate over the appropriate uses of automobiles isn't new. In fact, what might be the most famous of all words on the subject were uttered in Congress over 130 years ago... A new source of power...called gasoline has been produced by a Boston engineer. Instead of burning the fuel under a boiler, it is exploded inside the cylinder of an engine. The dangers are obvious. Stores of gasoline in the hands of people interested primarily in profit would constitute a fire and explosive hazard of the first rank. Horseless carriages propelled by gasoline might attain speeds of 14 or even 20 miles per hour. The menace to our people of vehicles of this type hurtling through our streets and along our roads and poisoning the atmosphere would call for prompt legislative action even if the military and economic implications were not so overwhelming... [T]he cost of producing [gasoline] is far beyond the financial capacity of private industry... In addition, the development of this new power may displace the use of horses, which would wreck our agriculture. Horseless Carriage Committee, U. S. Congressional Record, c. 1875 - By David B. Traver Adolphus' Sounds kind of like the current debate over Hydrogen... krw On Dec 21, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote: Kevin, Okay, did I miss something? What was the urban legend quoted from the bogus Congressional Horseless Carriage Commission that Hemmings published in the previous issue? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 10:21 AM Subject: RE: Everything new is old, or, nothing new under the sun. Looks like Hemmings (and through them, me) got taken by an urban legend: http://www.hemmings.com/newsletter/newsletter.html? volume=2issue=27id=831refer=newsemlid=123347#831 Horseless Carriage Committee report an urban myth Last week, we quoted the congressional Horseless Carriage Committee, supposedly of 1875. Were we a little skeptical of the source? Sure, and we did scour the Congressional Record of the time for a reference, and couldn't find it, but then, the Record is a little spotty. At worst, we thought that maybe it came from later on, you know, when the internal combustion engine actually became common, say from 1895 or so. Reader Chuck Picciuti was also looking for the source of this, and we suggested that the only way to verify or disprove this account would be to dive into the published volumes of the Record at his local Federal Depository. Chuck actually had the time and inclination to go to the Public Services Division of the Law Library of Congress, and this is what they told him: This is, in fact, an urban legend. We checked Committees in the U.S. Congress, published by CQ Press and verified that there never was a Horseless Carriage Committee. We also checked the Congressional Record Index (indexing debate in congress), the Congressional Hearings Index and the U.S. Serial Set, which indexes congressional reports and documents, and found no references. Indeed, the terms gasoline or horseless carriage do not even appear in these sources for this time period. We also checked these sources using the terms automobile and petroleum and again found no references for this time period. We also believe this statement is anachronistic. In 1876, Nicholas Otto of Germany invented and built the first gas motor engine and then built it into a motorcycle. Subsequently, in 1885, Karl Benz designed and built the first practical automobile to be powered by an internal combustion engine. The first gasoline-powered automobile built in the United States in 1891 by John Lampert was a three- wheeled motor vehicle. The first U.S. patent for a gasoline-powered automobile was issued in 1895, and the first U.S. company to manufacture automobiles was founded in 1896 by the Duryea brothers. For additional information, click here, or click here for a brief history of gasoline. We hope this sets the record straight on this oft-quoted, totally fabricated bit of history. - By David Traver Adolphus On digest mode, so I'm a little slow... Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED
Re: Our old oldses and new fuel sources
I'm not saying that hydrogen is the future fuel, but it's in the running. Mind you, I shudder to think of people who manage to blow themselves up refueling their cars with gasoline trying to use hydrogen - maybe the professional pump jockey will make a comeback due to H2 safety concerns? The real safety concern for hydrogen is that it burns with an almost clear flame. A small low-pressure leak at a hydrogen refueling station in the daylight, if ignited, would burn with a flame the human eye cannot see. You can take your imagination from there. NASA has the same problem with hydrogen, since they use extremely large amounts of it in liquid form. Recently, NASA released several requests for proposals for improved and advanced hydrogen flame detection monitors. It would appear that even NASA cannot get the safety issues of using hydrogen completely under control. Milton Schick Who has used pure pressurized hydrogen in NASA funded engineering research for improved SCRAMjet propulsion. 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: '65 442's with factory 425's?
Chris, some guy the other day told me he wanted a 65 425 (had to be the A block) because it was going into a 65 442. And he wanted it to be correct. He said that 400s weren't produced on time, so the first '65 442s had 425s. MAYBE a handful of pre-production prototype/promotional type cars had it... MAYBE. What do you think? Discuss amongst yourselves. This obscene wife's-tail/urban legend puts me into a furious rage every single time I hear it! It's 1000% bull crap! GM had a corporate wide ban on *any* engine bigger than 400 CID in any A-body or pony car from 1965 to 1969, inclusive, period. 425s in '65 442s did not happen, ever. Chevy would have just loved to stick a 425HP 427 into a '65 Chevelle, but the first person who did it would have been fired. 1970 was the first year for over 400 CID in A-bodies and pony cars. Hurst cars, Yenkos, Royal Pontiacs, etc., prior to 1970 were *dealer* installed over 400 CID engines with *no* factory documentation. Your friend is looking for hen's teeth. It doesn't exist, except in someone's mind. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Whats wrong with this car
The engine is painted blue instead of gold. I can't identify trim that's incorrect. I always zero in on the powertrain. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dan Roethel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:13 PM Subject: Whats wrong with this car While surfing Evilbay I came across this 69 Cutlass convertible. Item 120066224508 What's wrong with this car? Sorry no prize if you guess right. Dan -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.24/592 - Release Date: 12/18/2006 1:45 PM
Re: leaky 65 Conv.
Jeff, The only thing I can suggest is to be inside your car when it rains and watch where exactly the water comes in. Once you have the leak spots pinned down, maybe we can help you fix those exact spots. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: JEFFREY LISLE [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 10:53 PM Subject: leaky 65 Conv. Hello, Just wanted to see if anyone else feels my pain in the leaky convertible department. I dont have a garage and it is rainy season here in Okinawa and my 65 Conv. is leaking everywhere, I replaced all the seals but it actually seems to be worse than before, I am pretty sure I put it all back correct. I gooped all kinds of sealant on top too. Any advice or just pull all the carpet and panels and dry off the floor every time it rains. I have 3 more years here and dont want the Cutlass to rust out too bad, everything rusts here since so close to the ocean. Jeff and leaky(65 Cutlass Conv.) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.21/589 - Release Date: 12/15/2006 5:10 PM
Olds in WW2
For today, 7 December 2006, Olds helped out 65+ years ago. Mounted centerline on the bow of PT658 is the 37MM Oldsmobile M4 Automatic Cannon. Originally cannibalized from crashed P39 Airacobra fighter planes, these cannons were found to be very effective when used in an anti-supply barge missions on the PT Boats. Fitted with a 30 round magazine, and delivering 180 rounds per minute with a max effective range of 9000 yards, these guns were a favorite of many PT Boat crews. It only took a few hits on most barges with the 37MM cannon to sink it. The Oldsmobile (Yes, another GM company doing it's bit for the war effort) M4 37mm automatic cannon was used first in the start of the P 38 production then later for the P 39 Aircobra. That was where the original crews got theirs from. The 37mm was considered an antitank gun at the outset of the war. When the PT's started engaging Japanese barges and small boats in the Pacific, they were looking for something with a little more punch. It had an effective range and was capable of going through thinner armor plate. The European campaign also saw it in use against the German and Italian small boats and F lighters, although a wooden boat attacking an armor plated F lighter was not too smart, it did happen on occassion to the dismay of both sides. The 'Heavy One Pounder' was the USN's equivalent of the RN's 1½ Pdr described below; an effort to produce a more powerful cartridge for the Maxim light cannon. The weapon rapidly disappeared into history, but the cartridge re-emerged as the basis for a new round (a bit longer and more powerful) developed by Browning for one of his own cannon designs. This was developed by Oldsmobile as the T9 and adopted by the USAAF as the M4. It was mainly used in P-39 Airacobra. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fw: An important message from Nationwide Internet!
List, I wouldn't be hard on Greg for one nanosecond concerning his ongoing problem with AOL. Below is a message from my server, TheRiver, and their parent, Nationwide Internet. It looks like they've been having some of these same problems, all dumped in the lap of the spammers and phishers. Spamming and phishing should be made a capital crime. In the U.S. of 1930, it would have been. We've gotten too leinient. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 11:48 PM Subject: An important message from Nationwide Internet! Dear Valued Customer. I am writing today to offer my apologies and tell you what we are doing to resolve the problems you have experienced with our email and spam/virus filtering over the last few weeks, as well as the problems you may have had contacting us due to the large volume of calls and emails we are receiving. We value your business and we recognize that you have a choice of internet service providers. We understand that many of you have experienced either some degradation in service or outright failure of our email and spam filtering system over the last several weeks. We have had two specific problems; First, we recently completed an upgrade and migration to a new spam and virus filtering system as well as a new webmail and spam management interface. (https://spamfilter.nationwide.net) Due to both a larger than expected influx of spam and viruses from the internet as a whole and an unanticipated hardware system problem that did not show up in our testing or previous migrations, you may have experienced slow email sending or receiving and/or outright failure of mail to be processed. In addition, if you are connected to the internet via some other provider, you may have experienced a problem sending mail via an email client like Outlook Express using smtp on port 25. Port 587 with SMTP authentication must be used if you are connecting to our mail server to send mail but are not physically connected to our network. In addition, you may have been experiencing problems with failure messages from AOL, Comcast, Earthlink, Verizon and possibly a few other ISPs. This is due to an increasing global problem of spammers using trojan horse and phishing software to capture unsuspecting users personal computers to send large numbers of spam messages through infected customer computers to our servers. This is not limited to Nationwide Internet, but is a problem all across the internet with many large and small ISPs whom we work with daily. Unfortunately, in the case of spam and virus proliferation, we are all innocent victims of the explosive spam phenomena. We are working with our software and hardware vendors to resolve both the slow access speed for our webmail and spam filtering systems and the slow or failed delivery and receipt issues. We expect to have the failure notices from AOL, Earthlink, Verizon and Comcast resolved today and we expect to begin to be able to allow some messages from these ISPs to come thru as well as we un-block them when they respond to our spam complaints from their networks. The hardware issue has been most difficult for our vendors, IBM and EMC, to diagnose and fix. We are working on it every hour of every day with our vendors and we will either have it resolved this week or move to another provider. In the meantime, we are adding additional staff in our call center to take your calls and updating our website with more current information to ensure that you are informed of what is happening. I would appreciate it if you would continue to send any failure messages you receive to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will act on them promptly. It is important to note that we cannot control the send or receive policies of other ISPs and they may choose to continue blocking some email. We will continue to work with the entire internet community to control spam and resolve these issues as they arise. Please reference the following two open trouble tickets for further updates to these issues. For problems logging into spamfilter.nationwide.net or webmail systems: http://status.nationwide.net/system_status.cgi?action=viewid=1163714314 For problems with email blocking or failure notices: http://status.nationwide.net/system_status.cgi?action=viewid=1165258314 I apologize for these ongoing problems and encourage you to continue to notify us if you are having any recurring problems that I have not referenced here. We will address them as quickly as possible. I will send another communication as soon as I know that we have resolved all of these issues. Thank you for your continued business. Lisa Bickford President Nationwide Internet For more information about the global increase in spam, please read these online
Re: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds
Jack, The HP increase is assuming the engine already had dual exhaust. I'm only talking about the difference between stock cast iron dual exhaust manifolds verses WZ cast iron dual exhaust manifolds (which are different from stock manifolds) verses tubular exhaust headers. I'm only changing one variable at a time. Changing from stock single exhaust to dual exhaust using the same cast iron exhaust manifolds that came on the car is usually good for approximately 10-15 HP, depending upon the exhaust system components used. Many A-bodies came stock with customer ordered dual exhaust, along with B-body cars that had a dual exhaust option. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Jack Kopf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:15 AM Subject: RE: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds I would expect to see more than a couple of ponies going from a stock to duel exhaust. The olds design is pretty restrictive feeding the drivers side into the passenger side manifold, than forcing the gases to make a 270 degree change in direction. JK -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kerry Doyle Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:33 AM To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Subject: Re: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds Milton thats a big jump in HP going to headers.Once I have the 68 on the road and all is settled down and running fine I will want to get it fitted for a good quality coated set of headers and the full 3 pipes; Kerry --- Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kerry, Yeah, that's cheap at $50.00. I sold a pair in less pitted condition and cleaned and painted for $350.00 some time ago. It's all in what you want. The W/Zs might give you 2-4 more HP. A good set of headers will give you 20-40 more HP. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 5:43 PM Subject: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds A couple days ago someone was debating over stock maifolds or headers. Evil # 230057792398 is for a set of used W Z manifolds that might go cheap?? -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.19/556 - Release Date: 11/28/2006 3:22 PM -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.0/557 - Release Date: 11/29/2006 4:15 PM
Re: Body tags for sale
Kerry, I sent a message to eBay concerning the inadvisability of selling body/trim tags for this seller's 21 tag auctions. I haven't heard from them. Unfortunately, the FBI does not have the funding or the priority to stop this sort of thing, so enforcement is lacking. They don't like it, they want to see it stopped, but until Washington gets their head out of their collective butts, all they can do is watch. The same applies to local LE. If a VIN was also being sold, then the visibility goes up, but due to lack of resources, most of these body/trim tag sellers are flying just under the radar. So there you have it. Just like prohibition in 1919-1931. Technically illegal, but unwilling to be enforced due to the time, effort, and money required. There's a lot of other things that fly under the radar. You would be surprised. Often, laws don't mean what they say. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 5:35 PM Subject: Body tags for sale This guy has a 442 body tag for sale?? How does one know its a 442 by the cowl tag?? Kerry http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjunknmore4u Evil# 290055631499 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.19/556 - Release Date: 11/28/2006 3:22 PM
Re: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds
Doug, Either Hooker or Headers-By-Ed or Kooks, with Kooks being incredibly expensive and Headers-By-Ed being both incredibly expensive and up to one year to get. For most purposes, I would go with Hooker. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Doug Cuthill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:01 PM Subject: Re: 455 rebuild Headers / manifolds Have followed the Header/WZ talk. What does the list suggest from experience is a good set of mail order/ catolog headers. Have 1970 44s W30 build up with a Q-jet and Aluminum intake but stock exhaust. Drive about 2000 miles a year with a couple of local 1/8 strip runs. A couple days ago someone was debating over stock maifolds or headers. Evil # 230057792398 is for a set of used W Z manifolds that might go cheap?? Doug C -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.0/557 - Release Date: 11/29/2006 4:15 PM
Re: traction bars
Steven, There's not enough showing in those pictures to understand why his traction bars are configured that way, but my first reaction is all show and no go. Leaf spring and coil spring traction devices are completely different in the way they work, but those T-bars look like leaf spring bars installed backwards, which would do nothing to improve traction. I do not recollect if that car has leaf or coil rear springs. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: steven pignataro [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:48 PM Subject: traction bars Ok I know how to install traction bars and have them on my drag car. So the question is, is this guy just an idiot or will they function the way he has them installed also?.Steven http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-COLLECTOR-STREET-ROD-1980-Pinto-V-8_W0QQitemZ260058042618QQihZ016QQcategoryZ6057QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Cheap talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. http://voice.yahoo.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.0/557 - Release Date: 11/29/2006 4:15 PM
Re: 1970 442 Convertible for sale
Dan, It's a bogus ad. Click on the seller's name or feedback and you get an E-mail form. Also notice the big blank tail at the bottom of the ad. It needs to be reported to eBay security, pronto. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dan Roethel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:30 PM Subject: 1970 442 Convertible for sale Came across this car on Evilbay. Item number: 300054561779 Is this a list members car? Anyone know the owner? Seems to good to be true -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.19/556 - Release Date: 11/28/2006 3:22 PM
Re: Distributor Assistance Please
Rodney, The easy way has to paths, depending on how much money you wish to spend. 1) Go to the local auto parts store and buy a rebuilt distributor for your car. The wire has already been replaced. 2) For much more money, buy a MSD billet distributor for an Olds and a MSD 6A ignition module. Then you will have breakerless ignition with long duration fire. You could send your distributor to Stinger or Petronix and have it modified into a breakerless system and then add a MSD 6A ignition module, but I believe the MSD distirbutor is better in the long run, even though it is more expensive. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Sr Project Manager [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 8:11 AM Subject: Distributor Assistance Please I have a 1970 442 with the 455 engine. I was driving around Thanksgiving day and the car just quit. After repeated attempts to start the car I realized that it won't start and I had it flat bedded home. While searching for a probable cause, I noticed the wire from the distributor to the coil was broke off right where it comes out of the distributor. Since there is no room to splice it together I looked at the problem and assessed the situation and come to the conclusion that I must replace the wire. I'm asking the EXPERTS is there an EASY way to replace the wire WITHOUT tearing down the distributor? I have never taken one apart so I'm at a loss. While and if I tear it down would it be EASY to replace the point system with a solid state point less system? CAN SOMEONE FIND THE EASY BUTTON FOR ME? Thank you. Rodney in Bowling Green KY Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006 11:30 AM
Re: Olds--battery question
Karen, All Optima batteries come with a heavy built-in carrying strap. It can be removed prior to installation, but I always leave it on. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: spddemun [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:27 PM Subject: Re: Olds--battery question Kurt--Thanks! I can't drive her right now (no brakes), so guess I'll be totin'. I know those things weigh a ton (for me), so will see if son can help. Do they still make those battery straps for hauling in and out? Karen --- Kurt Heinrich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Karen, In case you can't find a better price, this battery is available from Sears for $169.99 and they install if desired. Kurt Heinrich OCA# 30442 71 Cutlass Supreme SX Convertible - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 2:29 PM Subject: Re: Olds--battery question The only way to prevent it is to switch to gel cell battery technology and buy an Optima battery. Gel cell batteries are not susceptible to sulfation like liquid lead-acid batteries are. Gel cell batteries will hold charge for years while a liquid lead-acid battery can loose charge in 2 months and go dead. An Optima battery will cost you a minimum of $150.00. There was a price increase about 6 months ago. The best, and correct, Optima battery to buy for any of our cars is a RedTop Optima Part # 8004-003, Model # 34/78, CA1000, CCA 800. This Optima battery is the one I use in my 5 vehicles, starting about 5 years ago for the first one, which was in Thunder. About 3 months ago, I installed one of these batteries in Pat's 2002 Toyota 4-Runner. I had to reverse the battery and extend the battery cables, since Toyota has the reverse of GM for polarity position on the battery, just like Ford, but it was more that worth it. Pat now has a battery that will outlast the life of her 4-Runner. Costco has a RedTop Optima with 20% less power for about $120.00. I do not recommend that battery. I would stick with the one I mentioned. above. In Tucson, there are only 2 places to get Optima batteries, either Costco or 2 of the local speed shops. That means one must install the battery themselves or find someone willing to install it. Optima's are normally setup for GM battery installation, so it's a drop in for a GM. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006 11:30 AM
Re: Good Crank Scraper
Scott, Rocket Racing has a crank scraper. http://www.rocketracingperformance.com/products/Engine-Trans/scraper.htm It's not listed as big or small block specific, but I would assume it's for a big block and can be adapted to a small block. The oil pan holes are the same. Actually, depending on the configuration of the crank throws, I would expect a bit of fitting for a crank scraper. For a big block, the diameter of the throws between a forged steel crank and a nodular iron crank are a little different. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Scott White [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:55 AM Subject: Good Crank Scraper Hello all- Getting along with my 350 rebuild...should have it together soon. Where can I find a decent and not too costly crank scraper? the eVil site didn't turn up too many options. Any suggestions? Scott White _ Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces friends module. http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp007001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=createwx_url=/friends.aspxmk -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006 11:30 AM
Re: W-30 My Butt
And where did the red inner fenderwells go Did he remove them and replace them with black steel ones Notice the novel way the heater doesn't work. He's plumbed the rear heater outlet into a port he had installed at the upper right rear corner of the right side radiator tank. The hot water from the back of the engine on the right side is now dumped directly into the right side radiator tank. Nothing like making the heat flow pattern a little different from the right and the left sides of the block. I think he blocked off the water pump port, but it's hard to see. Since he ran the hose from the back of the block, the thermostat by-pass is now completely redundant. He should have done away with it, also. I do note a piece of stainless mesh covering the fuel line as it curves over the front of the intake manifold. I wonder if he had vapor lock in that region and is trying to keep the heat off of the fuel line. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 12:42 PM Subject: Re: W-30 My Butt That is just nuts! In the comments he says its valued at 54,000 if 100 correct! Its not 100% so it aint! so its worth 15 tops as a put togeather car. --- Sr Project Manager [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here is a guy that swears up and down his car is a W-30 Post Coupe. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/552 - Release Date: 11/26/2006 11:30 AM
Re: Distributor Assistance Please
Rodney, That wir. e is easy to replace and you dont have to disassemble the distribte.or to change it. The wire pushes though that rubber grommet and clips on the points the other end on the coil. SHould take less than 10 mins total to repair. Rick is 1000% correct. It all depends on if you want the stock system or you really want the breakerless ignition system. It can cost $5.00 or $400.00, depending on what you want to do. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Olds--battery question
Karen, With the Olds just sitting and getting the occasional start, what does that do to battery life? With a lead - liquid acid battery, it kills it. It sets the battery up for lead sulfation in a short period of time. The trickle charger battery maintainer Bruce Roe has talked about is the only way to protect a battery in a vehicle that isn't on the road over a long period of time. That device prolongs battery life by providing electron flow activity internally in the battery, interrupting the formation of lead sulfate (chemical reduction reaction between the lead and the sulfuric acid in the battery) with hydrogen produced as a by product. I'm in a most-of-the-year hot climate, and I have had to fill the cells a few times a year. That's from evaporation of both water and acid. Just wondering if I'm doing any avoidable damage. It's the name-of-the-game with a liquid acid battery. Any advice on what CCAs I should look for in the future (A/C with 350). The only way to prevent it is to switch to gel cell battery technology and buy an Optima battery. Gel cell batteries are not susceptible to sulfation like liquid lead-acid batteries are. Gel cell batteries will hold charge for years while a liquid lead-acid battery can loose charge in 2 months and go dead. An Optima battery will cost you a minimum of $150.00. There was a price increase about 6 months ago. The best, and correct, Optima battery to buy for any of our cars is a RedTop Optima Part # 8004-003, Model # 34/78, CA1000, CCA 800. This Optima battery is the one I use in my 5 vehicles, starting about 5 years ago for the first one, which was in Thunder. About 3 months ago, I installed one of these batteries in Pat's 2002 Toyota 4-Runner. I had to reverse the battery and extend the battery cables, since Toyota has the reverse of GM for polarity position on the battery, just like Ford, but it was more that worth it. Pat now has a battery that will outlast the life of her 4-Runner. Costco has a RedTop Optima with 20% less power for about $120.00. I do not recommend that battery. I would stick with the one I mentioned. above. In Tucson, there are only 2 places to get Optima batteries, either Costco or 2 of the local speed shops. That means one must install the battery themselves or find someone willing to install it. Optima's are normally setup for GM battery installation, so it's a drop in for a GM. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: AL V8 on Ebay, RS is top bidder at this time
Yowsa http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemih=020sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AITviewitem=item=300052574357rd=1,1 [item # 300052574357] Super neat Kool. Notice the 2-bolt mains, which was a common feature in Olds RD engines. Most of them didn't have 4-bolt mains because the Olds engineers had determined 4-bolt mains generally weren't needed, period. Also note the aluminum heads are big block pattern, as per the shape of the combustion chambers. Big block heads on a small block produced gobs of top end power, which was exactly what is needed with a forged steel crank in a 330 or 350 with 13 to 1 CR climbing to 8000 RPM and beyond. ROP.com discussion: http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28233postdays=0postorder=ascstart=15 The discussion was great and hit the facts correctly, with the exception of 468 Calias. He is very badly misinformed about the quality of aluminum castings in the '60s. There may have been some where the caster cut corners, but I would trust the Olds castings, for they have an excellent track record in roundy-round racing circles. Just ask the CRO-SAL racing team. Also, I didn't see any aerospace aluminum castings falling out of the air in the '60s, or '50s, or '40s during WW2 combat. 468 Calias is way off base and sounds like sour grapes (envy). which leads to this nifty link of AL 455 photos: http://home.comcast.net/~tom.spafford/can_am_olds455/index.htm Thanks Chris. I saved those pictures. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Olds--battery question
Karen, What Bruce just said. It's a float charger, not a type of trickle charger like I accidentally said. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 10:34 AM Subject: Olds--battery question I use a battery float charger (not a trickle charger) to keep all my batteries optimum. Harb*r Freig*t had theirs on sale for $5 the other day. Just make sure its connected by pulling the plug momentarily; the red light should stay on. Don't leave it unplugged, or IT will eventually run your battery dowm. Bruce Roe 25 Nov 2006 spddemun [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: With the Olds just sitting and getting the occasional start, what does that do to battery life? I'm in a most-of-the-year hot climate, and I have had to fill the cells a few times a year. Just wondering if I'm doing any avoidable damage. Any advice on what CCAs I should look for in the future (A/C with 350). Karen -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/551 - Release Date: 11/25/2006 10:55 AM
Re: Tom's Crank problem
Naughty, naughty, Chris. that forged crank is heavier than the cast iron versions. Won't rev as fast. you should ditch that crank and get a nice light strong Nodular cast iron unit. As luck would have it, I have a Nodular crank, std-std, and I will even trade you for that heavy forging, straight up. :-) It's not 1 April 2007, yet. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 425 ci
Ron, All second gen Olds V8 engines from 1964 to 1972 will use a 45S or 44S or 43S AC spark plug. I'll bet anyone $1 million on it. A S series AC plug is an extended tip is get the flame front into the center of the combustion chamber at TDC-firing. A standard AC 45 or 44 or 43 plug does not have an extended tip and is not as efficient as the extended tip plugs in an Olds. Actually, an AC 45 or 44 or 43 plug is a small block Chevy plug, particularly in a small block Chevy with high compression, for an extended tip plug will hit the dome on top of the small block Chevy high compression piston. That's the advantage of an Olds with high compression flat top pistons...no spark plug interference. The difference is in the spark plug tip, not in the number of threads. An extended tip AC plug and a standard tip AC plug have the same number of threads. The electrode tip is 3 times as long on an extended tip plug than on a standard tip plug. If someone gave you spark plugs that actually have twice as many thread rings than the plug in your 400 Olds, then someone gave you plugs for a *427 Chevy*, not a 425 Olds. What spark plug brand uses an E3.46 number. I don't recognize it? Use an AC 44S plug or equivalent. Nothing else, and you should stay out of trouble. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Ronald Forsee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:11 PM Subject: Re: 425 ci Hey Gurus! Remember that little blurb I sent asking about your thoughts on whether or not a 425 plug would fit my 400? Well I bought them (E3.46 supposedly for the 65 Starfire 425) and they aren't even close. They extend into the chamber a full 1 inch where my current plugs are considerably shorter (about half the number of threads). Can anybody check their 425 plugs for me? Ron Forsee 65-442 Orig-Owner No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.14/548 - Release Date: 11/23/2006 3:22 PM
Re: End of List? Rear Control Arm Question
Bob, Well, all the bushings on the rear arms are shot as well, so now the rear sways all over the place (plus it thunks around under certain conditions) and it's more noticeable than ever since the front is all pinned down ... so I was thinking of upgrading to urethane bushings in boxed control arms. EDELBROCK: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/suspension/components.shtml Lower Control Arms, 1964-72 GM A-body = 5205 Upper Control Arms, 1968-72 GM A-body = 5208 Tubular Braces, 1968-72 GM A-Body Tubular Brace (includes hardware) = 5211 Control Arm Hardware Kit, 1964-72 GM A-body = 5217 IAS Shock Absorbers, 1968-72 Olds Cutlass, Cutlass Supreme, F85, and 442 = 33016 front, 34016 rear http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/shocks/shocks_main.shtml ENERGY SUSPENSION: Transmission Mount - Fits All Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles = 3.1108G 3.3132 complete rear bushing set, two individual bushings required from set, unless Edelbrock supplies those 2 bushings. I don't remember. The 2 bushing are needed it the top of the axle housing. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Here's something you don't see every day Chauncy.....
Deane, et al, Hm. here's your chance to get your donk rider like all the ones you see on the net this donk has 26in. wheels Do we have anyone on the Olds List who can translate? Donk rider? Donk? Obviously, these cool cats don't care what kind of car it is, just what they can do to the car to make it a great donk rider. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Deane Bristow [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 12:57 PM Subject: Here's something you don't see every day Chauncy. Things might be slow for the list this holiday but never imagine that the forces of weirdness have reduced their assault on Oldsmobile sensibility. I may need to replace my '84 Delta 88 so I check the Enough-bay ads from time to time. The seller (bid at $9100.00 at the time of this post) says this is the latest style. Good grief http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-olds-delta88-donk-rider-26in-custom-cany-paint_W0QQitemZ270053466958QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6406QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or Item number: 270053466958. Kinda like a clown car on steroids with a dose of lysergic acid thrown in to keep the mix fizzing.. Deane Bristow in Newport, OR (Noggin' wobblin' like a bobble head after seeing the above.)
Re: I need a crank snout bolt NOT THE COMMON 3/4 unit.
Chris, MATT in CA, others: ANYONE got one of them smaller 1/2-NF x 1.25 CRANK SNOUT BOLTS used only in 1964 330's and some early 1965 425's? need one right now, call cell number please if you can assist. What cell number? Just tell Matt that all he needs to do is buy a grade 8 1/2fine bolt of the correct length (he'll have to measure it) from the local hardware store. Use a split lock washer under its head against the thick balancer retaining washer. It'll work fine. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Discuss Everything
Bruce, What's a good lube for a speedo cable on my 79? At 221,000 its a little jerky. They sell speedo lube at auto stores...do not use any other lube. Just ask your local parts store. HR Harry responded first. The speedo-lube sold in auto parts stores usually has some graphite suspended in it. Quite messy, but it does the job. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info.
List, I would like to point out Kerry's last half of his serial number, 8M374227, the entire VIN of 344778M374227, and the body plate numbers, 68-33677 and LAN379484. Kerry's pictures gives me an example and a chance to explain how the FBI will use a body plate with a VIN plate in an investigation of grand theft-auto and chop shops. 8 equals 68. M equals LAN for Lansing. The 3 equals 3 for Oldsmobile on both plates, for that's where the body is going. Finally, the 3677 is for a Cutlass V8 Sports Coupe for the body build while the 4477 means that body wound up with a 442 option for a 442 High Performance V8 Sports Coupe. The 374227 VIN sequence number is close to the 379484 body sequence number, indicating a relationship in production sequence. Does everyone now see how the body plate *does* relate to the VIN Plate? Those are investigative tools. That's why the FBI does not want anyone selling body plates or switching body plates. One needs to look at it in the same way the FBI and local/state law enforcement would look at it. Do *not* make the assumption the body plate is harmless. Anybody who does engage in switching body plates to make a clone is playing with fire. Chris, that's a perfect example of why the idiot in GA is skating on real thin ice with their 69/70 whatever Olds. Their weight can easily go through and drown in LE interest. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 12:31 PM Subject: Re: James' VIN stamp, now need 1968 info. OK here it is in the pictures: http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a274/Oneil442/frame/ It is not pronounced in fact the 8 is only half there. But it is the VIN for my parts car. I had to brush and sand away a little South Carolina (non-Yankee) dirt but its really there. Anybody out there need a 68-72 A body frame (correct for 68 442 post car).??? thanks for the directions Vinny and Mike. Kerry (wish it was 44271 instead of 42271 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 2:31 PM
Re: Heater Problems
Hal, How do you stop the emailsfrom the club? Contact Greg Beaulieu [EMAIL PROTECTED] and request that your E-mail address be deleted. That's how. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: GA contact to go see the 69/70 Cutlass?
I sent a message to Greg about it. He replied there was a big power failure in chebucto's area about a week ago which knocked chebucto offline for a while. That could be part of it. But I saw Olds List E-mails that were late by a 4-6 days. Some were mine. I don't know. At least I know it's not my server, since you have the same problem. Everyone should report each late E-mail they see. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: GA contact to go see the 69/70 Cutlass? Wow that was sent a week ago? The net is gittin slow as snail mail! --- Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris If it is the one of a kind preproduction 70 demo car with 69 documentation grab it! It ought to bring really BIG money at a BJ auction. Kerry --- Christopher Witt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Who's near Hortense GA that can go see the 70 with a 69 title? Perhaps I just ask their local Sherriff to drop by over there to ck in on the car? --- Chris Witt *the* Rocket Scientist 1303 W. Miller Rd. Lansing MI 48911 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message. Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days _ Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from Microsoft Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/ -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 2:31 PM
Re: Spark Plugs
Look for the equivalent in Autolite. I think, but won't swear to it, but: Autolite 75 = AC 45S Autolite 74 = AC 44S Autolite 73 = AC 43S Any good autoparts store should be able to get AC or Autolite. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Doug Cuthill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 8:04 AM Subject: Re: Spark Plugs I didn't see it. The plugs are the same. Use either an AC 44S or a 43S, depending on your type of driving. 44S for normal street driving and 43S for continuous high speed racing. Stay away from any resistor plug. Milton Schick Where is a source for the AC 44S plug. I have tried Dealers and Auto parts stores here and have had no luck getting tthem Doug -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 2:31 PM
Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems
Garth, The resistance wire conductive material had deteriorated over time and was building up internal resistance while energized. At every tune-up, its always a good idea to take an Ohm meter and check spark plug wire resistance to detect a wire that is building up too much resistance, leading to a failure of that type. Anything with a resistance well over 350 Ohms per foot of length is suspect. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: DeVries, Garth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 9:50 AM Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass starting problems I had a weird problem with my 1970 Cutlass Conv. It would start cold and run for a little while and then stop and never start again until it was cold again. After changing several parts and working on it at dusk I noticed my coil wire was arcing off the manifold. Replaced the coil wire and the problem was fixed. What was happening was the coil wire would heat up and sag towards the manifold. The coil wore would then arc and interrupt the spark. Then the engine would stop. During the times it would not start I had a lot of fuel in the carb. It even caught the fuel on fire from the arcing spark. So I ended up rebuilding the carb too. For what it is worth. Garth DeVries From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 6:02 PM To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems Well before it ran just fine, cold morning starts on one turn, and just a bump of the key to start there after, this was new to me. After changing those components then I noticed it was shooting gas up thru the carb like Old Faithful, well the mechanic said it may be a stuck float and a carb rebuild would be in order. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Thu, 9 Nov 2006 12:05 PM Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass starting problems [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:ggregory77%40aol.com wrote: I was driving today and the car just died which has never happened before, checked the carb is getting gas, then checked the distributor which is a HEI, came with the car, changed the ignition module and coil pack, car started up after quite a few tries and moving the cap around some, then drove it back home, So at this point the car was running as well as ever? If so then you did _something_ that made it better. then it got worse, had to pull over every couple of blocks, at the stop light it ran and died out, on her last leg when I put it in drive it died out but after a few tries in park it would start by this time the battery went down from all the starts, How does it act when it is dying? Does it just die or does it act like it wants more or less gas? Does it smell of raw fuel? Does it re-start if you pump the gas pedal? Does dropping a thimble full of full down the carb throat cause it to start if even for a moment? Does it back fire? a co-worker informed me that the timing may have moved With all due respect to your co-worker that is just dumb to suggest unless he knows something that we do not. I could say that maybe the crankshaft snapped in two or maybe the distributor shaft broke but at this time you should be looking at more likely problems. Have you pulled a plug to see if it is dry or wet and if it sparks when the engine is cranked? Since playing with the distributor seemed to fix it last time are you absolutely sure you are getting power to the HEI? A cracked wire would give you no end of grief. Can you get it running long enough to put a timing light on her? Good luck. -- Cliff start at the most likely and work towards the most unfortunate http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html size=2 width=100% align=center Check out the new AOL http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/1615326657x4311227241x4298082137/aol?redi r=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaol%2Ecom%2Fnewaol . Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 2:31 PM
Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?
I wouldn't use RTV with a gasket. In most cases, RTV and a gasket don't mix well. RTV works best when itself is the gasket. The RTV is used to make the entire gasket. Permatex High Tack is *not* RTV. High Tack has much more in common with a contact cement that is totally impervious to oil and stays flexible. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:46 AM Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better? Re: RTV, the last time this was discussed I took away that the gasket should be only tacked to the valve cover with gorilla snot (only to hold the gasket in place, not necessarily to create a seal). Then the clamping force of applying the bolts is what actually makes the seal, without benefit of RTV. You don't want to put anything on the head side of the gasket. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:16 am Subject: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better? To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca My valve cover gaskets have a metal core. Seem to work the best for me. 2 Nov 2006 Hans Naepflin [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Time to do my valve cover gaskets (70 350). Mine have really sprung a leak since I started using Shell Rotella to try and stem oil consumption per Milton's advice.May or may not be related. They are probably 15 years old and are due anyway. So which are the best ones? Cork or rubber? Felpro or other? I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so I thinking of doing mail order. Which outfit will give me the best deal on such a small item? Rock Auto has Felpro's in like 4 flavors al for about 8 or 9 bucksWhich are best? Install dry or with RTV or other??? Lots of questions I know. Thanks, Hans -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 2:31 PM
bad chebucto E-mails
Greg, I just got 4 E-mails from my server that were dated 6 to 10 days ago when they were sent out to the Olds List by the Olds List members. Yesterday, I received 3 E-mail confirmations for E-mails I had sent out to the Olds List over 3 to 5 days ago. Is chebucto having a problem? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Aurora problems
Tom, In an older engine without fuel injection and computer control, the first response would be a bad intake valve. The second would be a bad ignition coil or bad distributor. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Tom Atencio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:06 PM Subject: Aurora problems Hello List, I am having some issues with my 98 Aurora. It is running rough at idle (surging etc.) and up to about 3000 rpm. Under hard acceleration, it pops or backfires in the intake/airbox or such. This it started doing this about two weeks ago and has been getting worse. The service engine light came on today, but was off the last time I drove it. My mileage has also been getting worse...usually averages 20 mpg but it is now down around 17.5 mpg.Anyone have any ideas? I am on digest. Thanks Tom Atencio Littleton CO 68 442 70 F85 98 Aurora -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.24/514 - Release Date: 11/2/2006 5:15 PM
Re: EVIL # 200043409118
Just because the FBI told YOU something does`nt mean anything. You prove what the FBI says ? If they can REPRODUCE a cowl tag, then what`s the difference ? Think about it.And there is absolutely NOTHING on them OLD GM cowl tags to help a thief hide a stolen car. If a stolen vehicle has its body tag on record, wouldn't it be a good idea for a chop-shop to change it to disguise the fact the car the chop-shop just built was made out of stolen parts? That's why. When a reproduction body tag is made, it must go back on the original car the info came off of. Reproduction body tags are for 1000% percent restorations to bring big money at Jackson-Barret auctions. Anything else is a very big problem. This info was just confirmed by my FBI agent cousin, whom I turned over to all the threatening E-mails I received from 442cash. He wasn't pleased with 442cash. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES
Kevin, I'm sorry, what? The seals are outboard of the bearings on my '70 O-type 12-bolt, meaning that one has to change the bearings to change the seal. I had to do that just a year ago - wasted a perfectly good bearing. Are '65 O-types different? Yes, '64-'65 Olds A-body rear axles have the seal in the housing and the bearing outboard on the axle just behind the wheel flange with the bearing retained in the housing with a 4 bolt axle retainer plate. This arrangement is identical to '57-'64 Olds big car rear axles with the exception of smaller scale. I don't know what the '66 and up Olds A-body axles do. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: GA 69=70 car
Chris, Sent a letter today to the local Sheriff for Hotense GA asking that he look into this 1969 Cutlass with a 1970 body. We'll see how Little Miss Foulmouth likes that. Good for you! I'm proud of you. I mean that. Too many people won't stand up for anything. So, crap just keeps happening. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: thoughts on fuel economy
Bruce, 6 Nov 06 Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Their electrical power generation from the output of their nuclear reactors is much more efficient than the power we get. Overall, about a 50% improvement, including fuel production in the more progressive countries' fast-breeder reactors. It's an entire system improvement, which we don't have. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fw: EVIL # 200043409118
List, The pleasant response from this sellerr. He just got turned in to eBay security and the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] GO FUCK YOURSELF!!! HOW DOES THAT SOUND? BODY TAGS CAN BE SOLD!! VINS CAN NOT. SO LIKE I SAID GO FUCK YOURSELF!! GET A GLUE. COME BACK WHEN YOU HAVE MORE FEEDBACK, 3 WON'T CUT IT. YOU ARIZONA MEXICAN FUCK - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 11:24 PM Subject: Re: EVIL # 200043409118 Kerry, The seller cannot sell that body tag. It's a Federal Felony to do so, period. Yes, people try to skirt around the law and do some things that aren't legal. They just weren't caught, yet. Ask the List about the sting that was pulled a year ago on a seller on eBay who was trying to sell a 442 body tag and VIN plate. He was busted by the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: EVIL # 200043409118 Was looking at the 442 stuff on evil and saw this auction. It takes all kinds of folks to make a world but is it just nuts to cut up a body like this or am I missing something here?? Isn't this worth more as a buildable body with 5VY tag? #200043409118 Quarter #200043406486 Quarter #200043160627 Body Plate -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM
Re: Valve Cover Gaskets: Cork or Rubber Better?
Hans, So which are the best ones? Cork or rubber? Felpro or other? Mr. Gasket Ultra-Seal Premium part # 5875. They're a rubberized composite gasket. I'm guessing my local Pep Boys sdoesn't stock these anymore so I thinking of doing mail order. Which outfit will give me the best deal on such a small item? JEGS or Summit Racing. Install dry or with RTV or other??? Use Permatex High Tack dark red contact cement type gasket sealer. Glue the new gaskets only to the valve covers. Be sure to use a hammer and a block of wood to flatten out any indentations where the valve cover bolts go through the valve covers. The gasket surface needs to be flat. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Spark Plugs
Ron, Hey guys! I thought I sent this out but have received no replies,so here goes again...Do you think that plugs for a 65 Starfire 425 will work in my 400? I didn't see it. The plugs are the same. Use either an AC 44S or a 43S, depending on your type of driving. 44S for normal street driving and 43S for continuous high speed racing. Stay away from any resistor plug. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: helping the fraudsters
John, HI All Check out this e-bay item number 280047118071. Just what the fraud guys need. Notice the bidders Id is kept private. Milton should love this. Well, reproduction body tags are legal when it goes back on the same car. For the 1000% perfect restoration, I can see the use. But this seller opens up a whole new world for fraud. I'll send your original E-mail to Matt and let him ask the questions. That could get interesting when the seller and eBay has to answer questions from the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: confused ebayer
Sorry, Dennis. You're right. I was distracted with putting up with 442cash's threats and failed to mention your input. Forgive me. My very bad. Take care. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 4:59 AM Subject: Re: confused ebayer In a message dated 11/7/2006 9:38:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Randy, You don't need a firesuit. Your criticism is valid. That's why I stayed with engine questions. I missed the intake point and the wall. I simply didn't see it. But I did ask for the head I.D., for that would clear up everything. I`m the one who mentioned the intake and wall. Dennis No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.32/523 - Release Date: 11/7/2006 1:40 PM
Re: thoughts on fuel economy
Kerry, OK Milton I agree with most of what you have said here but Nuke power plants produce more energy than they consume?? Right?? No. The Law of Conservation of Energy applies everywhere in our universe. The power produced by a nuclear power plant is covered by Einstein's famous equation: E=MC2. All the energy comes from the breaking of particle bonds in the nucleus of each atom. That is a tremendous amount of energy release. The energy equation still balances inside a nuclear reactor, energy in equals energy out. The difference in nuclear power reactors is that some designs are much more efficient than older designs. The U.S. is saddled with old style nuclear reactors. The Europeans, the British, and the Japanese are 3-4 generations ahead of us in the types of nuclear reactors they use. Their electrical power generation from the output of their nuclear reactors is much more efficient than the power we get. So the energy is contained in the atomic structure and is converted to another form in the reactor? No, not in the reactor, outside the reactor. The energy from the reactor is used to heat water, or liquid cessium, or another working fliud, which carries the heat to water, creating a superheated steam to run turbine electrical power generators. Can't the H2O's energy be converted to a more usable form and be used to produce work. Its still there and conserved according to the laws of physics. at the end there would be what, less H2O?? That's not the real problem. First, it takes a certain amount of energy to separate the H2 and the O2 from the water. Then, the H2 and the O2 is burned together to make power and do work. The question is, how much energy was necessary to produce a sufficient quantity of H2 and O2 to be able to burn it together and make the required power. So far, even with this guy's improved electrolyis method, it's not economical, at least on a smal scale, and ramp up to large scale has posed some problems that haven't been overcome. There's also one other small problem with using H2 that I've been simply amazed that no one has been talking about. H2 at low pressure burns with a clear flame in daylight. That's right, one can't see it. Even a high pressure H2 jet is mostly invisible. Take a look at the space shuttle main engines burning. The color in the flame cone is almost non-existant. Just thing\k of a small low pressure leak at a H2 refueling station for a H2 fueled car. Somehow it ignites. No one can see the flame. A motorist who is refueling their car walks into it and catches their pants leg on fire. I've used H2. We used it in our NASA funded Scram-Jet experiments to keep the flame lit in the combustion stage at high Mach numbers to stop flame-out. The safety precautions for using H2 as a fuel are extensive, because one can't see the flame burning in daylight. NASA has had hydrogen generators and motors for years right? I wonder how they work verses this guys low voltage water fracture machine? I don't know how they compare, except the items at NASA that burn liquid H2 are rocket engines. I do have a small problem with the term fracture. The bond in the electron shell of a H2O molecule must be broken to separate H2 from O2. I'm just not sure I'm comfortable with describing it as fracture. That seems to say that energy is released, yet he claims there is no increase in water temperature. I'd really like to sit down and talk to the inventor. BTW, would you like to know how the NERVA and ROVER nuclear rocket engines worked in the late '50s and early '60s, the engines that would have put us on Mars in 1975 and were killed by LBJ? Basically, one just injected water straight through a ultra high temperature nuclear reactor. The intense heat ripped the H2O molecules apart, creating a high pressure stream of H2 and O2 gas, which was the initial propulsion source. Then the H2 and O2 were reignited at the rear of the exhaust nozzle, like an afterburner of sorts. An engine the size of a VW could produce the same thrust as the entire space shuttle. Water, in the form of ice, is available throughout our solar system. I have at home, sitting on my shelf, the scale model we built of our autotonomous robotic nuclear powered water miner we proposed to NASA while I was at the University of Arizona. The spacecraft used onboard water to power her nuclear rocket engine, based after the NERVA and ROVER concepts. Upon landing at a promising site on an icy asteroid, a superheated steam drill, powered by superheated steam from the reactor, drilled through the crust, the steam melted the ice, the water was sucked up into the water storage tank, when the tank was full, the spacecraft tookoff back to her homebase, using a small portion of the water she just harvested to get there through her nuclear rocket engine. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: EVIL # 200043409118
Kerry, The seller cannot sell that body tag. It's a Federal Felony to do so, period. Yes, people try to skirt around the law and do some things that aren't legal. They just weren't caught, yet. Ask the List about the sting that was pulled a year ago on a seller on eBay who was trying to sell a 442 body tag and VIN plate. He was busted by the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: EVIL # 200043409118 Was looking at the 442 stuff on evil and saw this auction. It takes all kinds of folks to make a world but is it just nuts to cut up a body like this or am I missing something here?? Isn't this worth more as a buildable body with 5VY tag? #200043409118 Quarter #200043406486 Quarter #200043160627 Body Plate -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM
Fw: MO91008 Response to your email from eBay Motors CW. (KMM234323922V31225L0KM)
Olds List, Response from the seller of the '67 442 body tag. I guess by his response we can figure out just what type of person he is. I would recommend never dealing with this individual. I noticed that eBay pulled his ad for the body tag, but didn't hurt any of his other ads. - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: eBay Customer Support [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 6:51 PM Subject: Re: MO91008 Response to your email from eBay Motors CW. (KMM234323922V31225L0KM) eBay Customer Support, Maybe you might want to suspend the eBay account of this seller, permanently. The following E-mail was received from the seller. This guy has something wrong with him. __ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 12:55 PM Subject: Re: Question for item #200043160627 - 1967 OLDSMOBILE: 442!! 5VY YOU ARE A REAL FUCK STICK!! I WILL FIND YOU!! -- Original message -- From: eBay Member: infinitespacesystems [EMAIL PROTECTED] eBay sent this message to Christian?Cash?(442cash). Your registered name is included to show this message originated from eBay. Learn more. Question about Item -- Respond Now eBay sent this message on behalf of an eBay member through My Messages. Responses sent using email will go to the eBay member directly and will include your email address. ?Question from infinitespacesystems infinitespacesystems( 3) Positive feedback:100% Member since:Apr-16-06 Location:AZ, United States Registered on:www.motors.ebay.com Item: 1967 OLDSMOBILE: 442!! 5VY (200043160627) This message was sent while the listing was active. infinitespacesystems is a potential buyer. According to the FBI, body tags are also prohibited to sell along with VIN tags. Often, the 2 tags have related numbers. A body tag can be used to commit a car selling fraud across state lines, which is Federal jurisdiction. That's why. Also, I see the you have this stated on your auction site: Q: Hello, Your listing states Correct Documents. Do you have the VIN, Data Plate and Title that all match each other? Thanks, Bill Nov-02-06 A: Yes! This is maybe the only way to identify the 1967 442 cars.This is what you want if you are cloning or just want an original. Thank you for the question. That would indicate you also have the VIN and title available for sale. I respectfully suggest that you not sell that body tag, nor the VIN and title. Respond to this question Responses in My Messages will not include your email address. Thank you, eBay Details for item number:?200043160627 Item title:1967 OLDSMOBILE: 442!! 5VY Item URL:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200043160627sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1 End date:Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006?17:21:37 PST Marketplace Safety Tip Always remember to complete your transactions on eBay - it's the safer way to trade. Is this message an offer to buy your item directly through email without winning the item on eBay? If so, please help make the eBay marketplace safer by reporting it to us. These outside of eBay transactions may be unsafe and are against eBay policy. Learn more about trading safely. Is this email inappropriate? Does it violate eBay policy? Help protect the Community by reporting it. Learn how you can protect yourself from spoof (fake) emails at: http://pages.ebay.com/education/spooftutorial This eBay notice was sent to [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of another eBay member through the eBay platform and in accordance with our Privacy Policy. If you would like to receive this email in text format, change your notification preferences. See our Privacy Policy and User Agreement if you have questions about eBay's communication policies. Privacy Policy: http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/privacy-policy.html User Agreement: http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/user-agreement.html Copyright ??2006 eBay, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo are registered trademarks or trademarks of eBay, Inc. eBay is located at 2145 Hamilton Avenue, San Jose, CA 95125. - Original Message - From: eBay Customer Support [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 1:28 PM Subject: Re: MO91008 Response to your email from eBay Motors CW. (KMM234323922V31225L0KM) Dear Milton, Thank you for writing eBay in regard to item #200043160627. I've reviewed the information you provided and can assure you that we've taken the appropriate actions in accordance with our listing policies. Violations of eBay policies may result in a range of actions, including listing cancellation, limits on account privileges, account suspension, forfeit
Re: confused ebayer
Randy, You don't need a firesuit. Your criticism is valid. That's why I stayed with engine questions. I missed the intake point and the wall. I simply didn't see it. But I did ask for the head I.D., for that would clear up everything. There is one final item. The seller did have an inappropriate payment method listed at the bottom of the ad. EBay themselves state to never do a wire transfer. Seller's payment instructions BY CREDIT CARD, OR WIRE TRANSFER WITHIN 12 HOURS OF AUCTION CLOSE. MUST BE WIRE TRANSFERRED BEFORE ITEM CAN BE SHIPPED. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 11:04 AM Subject: Re: confused ebayer This was on ebay search, check out the qa at the bottom, as this guy blast him for not describing this car correctly. item # 180047114756 [And finally I have NO idea where that Original Grill came from??? I'm REALLY confused??] I don't expect this reply to go over too well, but I have to say it. The first thing that went through my head when I read the questions was This guy is a total @ss, what an idiot. I also think the seller answered rather respectfully considering the tone in which the questions were written. The questioner comes off to me as a loud mouthed know it all that buries himself the more he spouts off. If he's questioning the year of the car by what rear bumper is on itwell, duh. Anyone into '70-'72 Cutlass'/442's know that the front and rear bumpers can be interchanged...not correct, but functional. VIn tells you it's a '72 Supreme that had a 350 originally. Front grille...uh, it's a blacked out '72 Supreme grille...just like the '72 Hurst/Olds. Radio...obviously not there, so don't expect it to come with the car. If he wanted to come across as a sincere possible bidder with questions, he should have asked for the casting numbers on the block and heads. Paint...you can paint anything any color you want...it has no meaning in the grand scheme of things. Anyone looking at the auction can tell it's not a show car and not put back together 100%. Missing a/c ductwork underdash, brake pedal pad, wrong color radiator top plate (oops, that's just paint), missing wiring going to wiper/washer motor, open breather grommets, ashtray door missinghow many more things can you pick out? It's not my car and I don't know the seller, but I think nit picking Ebay auctions has gone overboard when you start picking apart average cars and questioning the integrity of sellers (he is not a newbie and has 100% feedback) that aren't trying to pass off a Cutlass as a real 442 or an obvious '70 as a '69. Doning my fire suit, Randy -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.32/523 - Release Date: 11/7/2006 1:40 PM
Re: confused ebayer
Randy, It's not my car and I don't know the seller, but I think nit picking Ebay auctions has gone overboard when you start picking apart average cars and questioning the integrity of sellers (he is not a newbie and has 100% feedback) that aren't trying to pass off a Cutlass as a real 442 or an obvious '70 as a '69. Except that 442cash has 67 positive feedbacks with a total feedback score of 100%. He was the guy for eBay 200043160627 and still has 200043409118 up with 10 other auctions. He was the guy who wanted to sell the '67 442 body tag and hinted that he also had the VIN tag and title for sale, for a total of $700.00. He is unusually mad at me right now, and I could care less. I just don't like someone bastardizing our Olds hobby. I have found with other types of internet auctions the feedback system can be more political than based in reality. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: EVIL # 200043409118
Wrong. Just because GM doesn't have cross numbers between cowl tags and VIN tags, that doesn't mean that ***every*** auto manufacturer does it that way. There is a reason for what I've been told by the FBI. If you can prove that information was incorrect, please do so. A switched cowl tag, notice that I said switched - not reproduced - those are 2 different things, can be used to facilitate the sale of a wrecking yard rebuilt vehicle for a genuine used vehicle. It can also be used to build chop-shop rebuilt vehicles to hide their origin as being stolen. That's why the FBI is interested in ***anyone*** selling a cowl tag. If an investigation leads to other discoveries, the individual would be busted. In this case, 442cash admitted he had the VIN tag and the title available. I think that just might establish intent. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 3:44 PM Subject: Re: EVIL # 200043409118 There is no law against selling a cowl tag. It does not contain ANY vin info. It IS against the law to remove and sell a VIN tag. You can have NEW cowl tags made. You CANNOT have new VIN tags made. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.32/523 - Release Date: 11/7/2006 1:40 PM
Fw: EVIL # 200043409118
List, The message I just sent to eBay: Item number: 200043160627 First off, I need to tell you that my cousin is a FBI agent, and he's into cars. Last night, I sent this message to the seller: I hope you are not trying to sell that body tag. It is a Federal Felony to do so. You had best check with the FBI first. According to my cousin, body tags are also prohibited to sell along with VIN tags. Often, the 2 tags have related numbers. A body tag can be used to commit a car selling fraud over state lines, which is Federal jurisdiction. That's why. Also, I see the seller has this stated on his auction site: Q: Hello, Your listing states Correct Documents. Do you have the VIN, Data Plate and Title that all match each other? Thanks, Bill Nov-02-06 A: Yes! This is maybe the only way to identify the 1967 442 cars.This is what you want if you are cloning or just want an original. Thank you for the question. This morning, I received this message from the seller: GO FUCK YOURSELF!!! HOW DOES THAT SOUND? BODY TAGS CAN BE SOLD!! VINS CAN NOT. SO LIKE I SAID GO FUCK YOURSELF!! GET A GLUE. COME BACK WHEN YOU HAVE MORE FEEDBACK, 3 WON'T CUT IT. YOU ARIZONA MEXICAN FUCK Do you wish to handle this situation, or would you prefer for me to call my cousin at the Tucson FBI Office. Please let me know. Sincerely, Milton Schick infinitespacesystems _ Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:11 AM Subject: Fw: EVIL # 200043409118 List, The pleasant response from this sellerr. He just got turned in to eBay security and the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] GO FUCK YOURSELF!!! HOW DOES THAT SOUND? BODY TAGS CAN BE SOLD!! VINS CAN NOT. SO LIKE I SAID GO FUCK YOURSELF!! GET A GLUE. COME BACK WHEN YOU HAVE MORE FEEDBACK, 3 WON'T CUT IT. YOU ARIZONA MEXICAN FUCK - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 11:24 PM Subject: Re: EVIL # 200043409118 Kerry, The seller cannot sell that body tag. It's a Federal Felony to do so, period. Yes, people try to skirt around the law and do some things that aren't legal. They just weren't caught, yet. Ask the List about the sting that was pulled a year ago on a seller on eBay who was trying to sell a 442 body tag and VIN plate. He was busted by the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: EVIL # 200043409118 Was looking at the 442 stuff on evil and saw this auction. It takes all kinds of folks to make a world but is it just nuts to cut up a body like this or am I missing something here?? Isn't this worth more as a buildable body with 5VY tag? #200043409118 Quarter #200043406486 Quarter #200043160627 Body Plate -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM
Re: Fwd: RE: TK91014 Your recent email to eBay's Trust and Safety Department. (KMM233503467V56636L0KM)
John, Thanks. I finally figured out which auction you meant. I've already reported him to eBay and gave them the option if they wanted me to tell the Feds. I haven't heard from eBay yet. I posted my posts to eBay and the jerk seller on the Olds List. The jerk seller has quite a mouth on him. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: John Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 5:55 PM Subject: Re: Fwd: RE: TK91014 Your recent email to eBay's Trust and Safety Department. (KMM233503467V56636L0KM) Milton, the auction number is 200043160627. He is selling badges and correct documentation, whatever that means, for 700 bucks. Awfully steep price for some ratty emblems and old paper, unless a certain couple metal plates come with it. -John. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.29/520 - Release Date: 11/6/2006 3:50 PM
Re: confused ebayer
Message I just sent to the seller. We'll see how he responds. If he's a jerk, I'll tell eBay they have another fraud going on. I'm interested in your car, but the question about the engine disturbs me. First, the engine is the wrong color. A 455 should be red or metallic blue. Gold is reserved for 330/350 engines. Second, the shelf over the timing gear housing behind the water pump doesn't look tall enough for the taller deck height of an Olds big block. Third, the intake manifold looks too narrow for an Olds big block, again due to the taller deck height of an Olds big block. If you could give me a picture of the front corner of the left head showing the head casting letter or number, that would prove whether the engine is a small block or big block. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 5:52 PM Subject: confused ebayer This was on ebay search, check out the qa at the bottom, as this guy blast him for not describing this car correctly. item # 180047114756 Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.29/520 - Release Date: 11/6/2006 3:50 PM
Re: confused ebayer
Karen, Why is the air filter sticking out/not screwed down? Is that normal? Some people do that to get more airflow. And my Olds has a flex-coil duct attached to air cleaner open end. They threw it away. They should clean the undercarriage and take a vac and dust rag to the insides! Just consider the source. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: thoughts on fuel economy
Bruce, He was building a car. Put water in, Hydrogen and Oxygen somewhere inside, water comes out the end. I don't believe that, might just as well redirect the water back to the source tank for perpetual motion. Right, and petpetual motion won't work, not in this universe. Patents are available to the public. If this stuff is so good, how come nobody else in the world is trying these ideas? Precisely! No truer words were ever spoken. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fw: EVIL # 200043409118
List, Second message I just sent to seller. We'll see if he is still foul mouthed: According to the FBI, body tags are also prohibited to sell along with VIN tags. Often, the 2 tags have related numbers. A body tag can be used to commit a car selling fraud across state lines, which is Federal jurisdiction. That's why. Also, I see the you have this stated on your auction site: Q: Hello, Your listing states Correct Documents. Do you have the VIN, Data Plate and Title that all match each other? Thanks, Bill Nov-02-06 A: Yes! This is maybe the only way to identify the 1967 442 cars.This is what you want if you are cloning or just want an original. Thank you for the question. That would indicate you also have the VIN and title available for sale. I respectfully suggest that you not sell that body tag, nor the VIN and title. __ Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:32 AM Subject: Fw: EVIL # 200043409118 List, The message I just sent to eBay: Item number: 200043160627 First off, I need to tell you that my cousin is a FBI agent, and he's into cars. Last night, I sent this message to the seller: I hope you are not trying to sell that body tag. It is a Federal Felony to do so. You had best check with the FBI first. According to my cousin, body tags are also prohibited to sell along with VIN tags. Often, the 2 tags have related numbers. A body tag can be used to commit a car selling fraud over state lines, which is Federal jurisdiction. That's why. Also, I see the seller has this stated on his auction site: Q: Hello, Your listing states Correct Documents. Do you have the VIN, Data Plate and Title that all match each other? Thanks, Bill Nov-02-06 A: Yes! This is maybe the only way to identify the 1967 442 cars.This is what you want if you are cloning or just want an original. Thank you for the question. This morning, I received this message from the seller: GO FUCK YOURSELF!!! HOW DOES THAT SOUND? BODY TAGS CAN BE SOLD!! VINS CAN NOT. SO LIKE I SAID GO FUCK YOURSELF!! GET A GLUE. COME BACK WHEN YOU HAVE MORE FEEDBACK, 3 WON'T CUT IT. YOU ARIZONA MEXICAN FUCK Do you wish to handle this situation, or would you prefer for me to call my cousin at the Tucson FBI Office. Please let me know. Sincerely, Milton Schick infinitespacesystems _ Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 10:11 AM Subject: Fw: EVIL # 200043409118 List, The pleasant response from this sellerr. He just got turned in to eBay security and the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] GO FUCK YOURSELF!!! HOW DOES THAT SOUND? BODY TAGS CAN BE SOLD!! VINS CAN NOT. SO LIKE I SAID GO FUCK YOURSELF!! GET A GLUE. COME BACK WHEN YOU HAVE MORE FEEDBACK, 3 WON'T CUT IT. YOU ARIZONA MEXICAN FUCK - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 11:24 PM Subject: Re: EVIL # 200043409118 Kerry, The seller cannot sell that body tag. It's a Federal Felony to do so, period. Yes, people try to skirt around the law and do some things that aren't legal. They just weren't caught, yet. Ask the List about the sting that was pulled a year ago on a seller on eBay who was trying to sell a 442 body tag and VIN plate. He was busted by the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kerry Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: EVIL # 200043409118 Was looking at the 442 stuff on evil and saw this auction. It takes all kinds of folks to make a world but is it just nuts to cut up a body like this or am I missing something here?? Isn't this worth more as a buildable body with 5VY tag? #200043409118 Quarter #200043406486 Quarter #200043160627 Body Plate -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.28/518 - Release Date: 11/4/2006 5:30 PM
Re: Fwd: RE: TK91014 Your recent email to eBay's Trust and Safety Department. (KMM233503467V56636L0KM)
John, There is a guy, on ebay right now, selling 5 442 items: 3 badges, a cowl plate, and a vin plate, allowing someone to fully clone a 67 442. This is both illegal, and really, really stupid. Other than the 442 trim code on the cowl (5V), I think, neither the cowl, nor vin, say anything about it being a 442! The vin says Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe/Post/Convertable and that's it. Which eBay auction number is that one? It's a Federal Felony to sell a body tag and VIN plate. I'll contact the seller and tell him so. If he won't respond, I'll turn him into the FBI. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: thoughts on fuel economy
67 Olds, This subject hits a nerve with me... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-992194168790800q=water+car This is not a hoax. It is fact. Unfortunately, there is another real problem. There is a little law of physics that is called The Conservation of Energy. It cannot be violated. Energy into a system *must* equal the energy out of the system. The inventer must separate H2 and O2 from water and then use the H2 for fuel, which recombines with O2 to make water as a by-product. See anything wrong here? When was the work done? The energy equation for this system will not balance. Also, there is no trick to running electrolyis with tap water. It's done with seawater every single day. Don't get me wrong, I want a zero-point energy device right this minute, along with a cold fusion device. I, personally, have an urgent need for that type of power system. There's a couple of people on this List who know why. But I don't think this device is it. On another note in relation to this invention, the Lone Lantern Society http://www.lonelantern.org/ is a sponsor for the inventer. There's just one problem with that. The Lone Lantern Society is one of those groups that claims 9/11 was a hoax put on by our government. That destroys any credibility the inventer may have been able to claim. No one wants to get into an arguement with me by claiming 9/11 was a hoax. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 1998 Intrigue GL noises
Andrew, I was thinking maybe bearings in the water pump or alternator? Yes, that's it. Water pump bearing first guess, alternator front bearing second. After the bearing warms up enough, it quiets a little. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 425 worth getting???
Marty, With this motor sitting for so long with no carb on it and being as it is seized up, is it still worth pulling out. Is there anything salvageable or worthwhile on it that I should get the whole motor. Yes, get the whole engine. That engine is a perfect candidate for rebuilding. Any 425 sittimg like that is. But that 425 is the 39 degree 0.921 diameter lifter engine. Might be $50. Worth it or walk away? Okay Marty, I'll tell you how much it's worth. Get the engine, and if you decide you don't want her, then ship her to me. I'm not joking. We'll have details to discuss. Call me. It's easier, or I'll call you. 520-888-1731 Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: OT: thoughts on fuel economy
Joe, Anyway, all this meandering aside, I guess what I'm trying to figure is whether or not, with the technology available today, would it be possible to build an economy car running strictly on gasoline, AND meeting modern standards for crashworthiness, that could meet or exceed what the Saturn Project did in 1982? I wouldn't expect it to be fast, but fast enough to be useable on public roads (by way of comparision, my CRX HF was rated at 58 SAE Net HP and 90 SAE Net ft-lbs, at 4400 and 2400 RPM respectively). I'd say maybe the worst thing to add to it that most people would want would be air-conditioning, from a weight-penalty point of view. It's an economy car, so I wouldn't imagine a laundry-list of power gizmos would come standard. Could it be done today strictly from a technical point of view? Up until a few months ago, I'd've said unlikely, until I found out what was achieved in 1982. Yes! It is extremely possible, if there was a will to do it. That will actually doesn't exist in the automotive corporate offices. The aerospace industry has the technology to drastically cut the weight. Even without using aerospace composites, the Olds powered CRO-SAL CAN-AM race cars did it 48 years ago. That same metallurgical technology could have been used on passenger cars then, but it wasn't, for no logical reason. The Bricklin used some of it, and that car failed, unfortunately, for it was outstanding. Always remember, cutting weight equals higher speeds or quicker acceleration or improved fuel economy or all 3 at the same time. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: thoughts on fuel economy
Bill, Got my vote for more nuke power plants with one condition With the oil we save they give back the 98 octane gas for my 67 Delta 88 Custom 425 so I can get the performance it was made for. That's a deal! Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: OT: thoughts on fuel economy
Steven, very simple...wouldn't sell enough to be profitable. I agree. Most Americans what their image car. Even we to, in our own way. Thunder makes a statement, and so will my other 3 A-bodies when they are finished. All about $. Yes, it is, without a shadow of a doubt. The key here is that people love their suv's and don't care about the mpg's or the $ they spend. I agree. It's us the consumer, they are just providing the buying public with what it is they want. Don't blame the oil companies.but that is a whole nother conversation!!! I blame the politicians and the lobbyists who give them money. I also blame the Liberal Elite who think only with emotion and have no clue what logic, common sense, and reason are. Is nother real word? It would be, but that is a whole other conversation. Anyway I've always thought that a Sterling engine run on a small flame turning 1000 rpms or so hooked to an alternator and bumped up to run 4 ac motors at each wheel would yield a car that would run at hundreds of miles per gallan. NASA still hasn't got their version of the Sterling engine perfected. There are some trade-offs in using electric motors for each wheel that can cause some problems. In 1976, Dart Truck Company had an electric powered 25 ton capacity front-end loader that was offered to the open pit mining industry. The base power came from a 1500 HP Detroit Diesel running a generator sending electrical power to each electric motor in each wheel. The capacitor bank was huge with a small nightmare of electric control circuits. No one in the mining industry wanted it. I worked for Dart Truck as a test engineer from '76 to '78. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: OT but is IS Halloween
I did that and it refused. The webpage specifically told me I was locked out. The other URL from the other List member's costume worked just fine. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: JOHN ORR [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 2:26 PM Subject: Re: OT but is IS Halloween Karen, just add this to the end es.jpg and it will take you right there john orr -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.13.22/512 - Release Date: 11/1/2006 2:40 PM
Re: OT but is IS Halloween
All I got was this: Sorry, the page you requested was not found and I pasted the whole URL in. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: James Hernandez [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 12:45 PM Subject: OT but is IS Halloween Just thought I would share with you my Halloween Costume for this year. My design team won the company contest. We went as Out of shape Superheroes at their day job That's me dressed as Peter Parker aka Spiderman. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Pedro4Prez08/OutOfShapeSuperHero es.jpg === James Hernandez 1996 Cutlass Supreme Coupe http://www.outrightolds.com/reg4.shtml Gilbert, AZ OCA #037935 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.21/509 - Release Date: 10/31/2006
Re: OT but is IS Halloween
Neither one will work for me. It's as if photobucket wants to lock me out. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Cliff Simpson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 2:53 PM Subject: Re: OT but is IS Halloween Hi Karen, spddemun wrote: I got not found on photobucket. karen Try this: http://tinyurl.com/y2yh5m Looks like fun James. -- Cliff You're not Superman you know. Simpson Kermit http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.21/509 - Release Date: 10/31/2006
Re: pinion retaining bolt?
Kerry, I jerked one from my parts car and shipped it to him in Japan, CW is sending me a replacement. How cool is that to be in the service in Japan and have a 65 Cutty to drive!!! ya just got to love it! Yes, but you just got to love this Olds List and the people who make it up! What could be better than the members of the List helping each other when the chips are down. And we even supported one of our Combat Warriors in the process! Kerry, I hereby award you a Gold Star. :-))) Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Switch Pitch
Bruce, I'm not going to try to convince anyone to like what I like. But I will share my experiences. I know that. That's what I try to do, also. In general the SWP doesn't seem to offer much to racing, since many of its attributes are irrelevant there. Yes, I've tried SlimJims and variable pitch TH400s on the track. The SlimJims were simply pathetic. The variable pitch TH400s weren't bad, but sometimes, the shifts seemed slightly confused. Of course, these were stock transmissions. But no one in their right mind would attempt to beef up a SlimJim for performance or racing. I'm not even that much in favor of automatics. I am in total favor of automatics. One of my deficiencies is that I could never get my left foot and right arm and right foot completely corrodinated for a manual transmission at WOT. Missed shifts are not neat and can be noisey. So BM full manual modified racing transmissions, my HydroStick, my 727 Torkflyte, and my TH400, are ideal for my corrodination limitations. :-))) But after all kinds of broken stick and auto transmissions, the 400 for my budget is by far the strongest and most reliable trans, beside being a simple bolt in. I couldn't agree with you more. The TH400 is the strongest passenger car and light truck automatic ever made. The 727 Torkflyte and the GM '55 slant pan HydraMatic are tied for second place. There is no third place. Nothing else counts. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 400 crank
Joe, The old wives tale is that laying a crank on its side will cause it to bow because of the weight of the counter weights. In a car it is supported by all the mains. I know. I've heard it for years. Out of the block on its side, it is supported only on the ends (because the weights don't bottom out) which will allow it to sag. So goes the theory anyway. But having dealt with dozens of new GM, Ford, and MOPAR cranks at the speed shop, and seeing how they were packed in their respective cardboard shipping boxes and laying on their side on the counterweights, and never finding one that was bent after having it checked in our machine shop, it's time for that old wife's tale to die a horrible death. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: oil additive
Joe, Milton, FWIW, When I was researching this topic I found info that said the manufactures were the ones who asked for a reduction in the ZDDP additives. The reason stated was that those additives were leaving a film on the o2 sensors. It made no mention of the cat converters. The new emission laws requires the manufactures to cover emissions equipment for 100k miles. And the film was causing early failures. Precisely! The manufacturers are under pressure from the EPA for those extended warranties, and the OEMs want the oil people to cover their backsides with the EPA! Other articles state the cat converter issues, including the Hot Rod magazine article. It all devolves down to the bureaucraps at the EPA. (And that's not misspelled!) Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: oil llab tests
Thanks, Joe. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: 73H/O OLDSRIP [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 6:23 AM Subject: oil llab tests Here is a link on oil lab tests done by Bob the OIL Guy. Zinc and Phosphorus are on the far right. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/voalibrary.html Joe Walters 73 H/O -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006
Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES
Jeff, Well a friend of mine who has dealt with many Chevy diffs says its an easy couple hour job so, why not. Well anyway to make a long story short he thought there were C clips on the axles and that I needed to remove the pinion and pinion retaining bolt and remove the gears to get to them, well we found out no C clips for Olds! The first thing to always remember is that an Olds is ***not*** a Chevy. Any way I broke the retaining bolt and need a new one (any idea where to get one?) What do you mean by pinion? The pinion is the drive gear retained by a very large nut on the driveshaft yoke. The ring gear is the driven gear retained by 10 bolts on the differential case flange. The differential case is retained by 2 main caps with 2 bolts each into the axle housing center section. I'm not sure which retaining bolt you are referring to. and also more important how do I get the axles out? They will not budge, we used a slide hammer with a chain rapped through the holes in the hub and nothing. Is there a magic way to get them out? Joe Walters and Kerry Doyle below did an excellent job of explaining how to remove the rear axles. It's easier than on a Chevy (read as better than). Yes, follow Joe's advice. Slap your friend up the side of his head. Sounds like quite the mess you got into. To remove the axles all you have to do is remove the drums and remove the 4 nuts that hold the axle flange to the backing plate and axle flange. They slide out easy. No magic, no c clips. The rear cover doesn't need to be removed. Slap you Cheby friend in the head. lol As where to get a new bolt, Chris W might have some. Or a place like Randys Ring and Pinion, maybe a dealer? Unbolt the retainers on the ends of the housing. Get an axle puller (Auto Zone will loan one to you) and jerk out the axles. Clean the axles, press off the old bearings and retainers and press on the new bearings and retainers. Next remove the old axle seals and replace them with new ones. You will need a seal puller or a slide hammer with an attachment. The seals are pressed in the end of the axle housing. The best way to press them back in is to find a socket that is rhe right diameter and hammer them back into the axle tubes. Put everything back together and drive off Couldn't have said it any better myself. You still on Okinawa? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: oil additive
John, I don't know what to tell you other than search all the parts stores and department stores like Target and Sears. Maybe Walmart has a different brand. Also try Checker, Pep Boys, AutoZone, and NAPA. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: pinion retaining bolt?
Jeff, Thanks, for the help with the '65 Cutlass axle question I had yesterday. Well now I am trying to hunt down that pinion retaining bolt since I busted mine in half removing it when it didnt need to in the first place. Also I am in Japan so I cant go to the local auto store, wish I could. The last post mentioned that Chris W might have some? I have checked the internet with no luck, any help? The problem is, I hope, you are calling the bolt you need by the wrong name. There is no pinion retaining bolt. The pinion gear is in the front of the center section. It drives the ring gear. It mounts through the nose of the center section with a very large nut that threads onto the end of the pinion. You can't break that. Well, I guess one could, but then they would be in very big trouble. Can you describe exactly where the bolt goes that you broke? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 11:39 AM Subject: Re: 65 Cutlass AXLES Jeff, Well a friend of mine who has dealt with many Chevy diffs says its an easy couple hour job so, why not. Well anyway to make a long story short he thought there were C clips on the axles and that I needed to remove the pinion and pinion retaining bolt and remove the gears to get to them, well we found out no C clips for Olds! The first thing to always remember is that an Olds is ***not*** a Chevy. Any way I broke the retaining bolt and need a new one (any idea where to get one?) What do you mean by pinion? The pinion is the drive gear retained by a very large nut on the driveshaft yoke. The ring gear is the driven gear retained by 10 bolts on the differential case flange. The differential case is retained by 2 main caps with 2 bolts each into the axle housing center section. I'm not sure which retaining bolt you are referring to. and also more important how do I get the axles out? They will not budge, we used a slide hammer with a chain rapped through the holes in the hub and nothing. Is there a magic way to get them out? Joe Walters and Kerry Doyle below did an excellent job of explaining how to remove the rear axles. It's easier than on a Chevy (read as better than). Yes, follow Joe's advice. Slap your friend up the side of his head. Sounds like quite the mess you got into. To remove the axles all you have to do is remove the drums and remove the 4 nuts that hold the axle flange to the backing plate and axle flange. They slide out easy. No magic, no c clips. The rear cover doesn't need to be removed. Slap you Cheby friend in the head. lol As where to get a new bolt, Chris W might have some. Or a place like Randys Ring and Pinion, maybe a dealer? Unbolt the retainers on the ends of the housing. Get an axle puller (Auto Zone will loan one to you) and jerk out the axles. Clean the axles, press off the old bearings and retainers and press on the new bearings and retainers. Next remove the old axle seals and replace them with new ones. You will need a seal puller or a slide hammer with an attachment. The seals are pressed in the end of the axle housing. The best way to press them back in is to find a socket that is rhe right diameter and hammer them back into the axle tubes. Put everything back together and drive off Couldn't have said it any better myself. You still on Okinawa? Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Switch Pitch
Kurt, This is the second time I've noticed that you don't seem to care for SP. I was thinking about putting one in my car and would truly appreciate your insight. The '65-'67 Olds TH400 isn't the first GM automatic transmission with a variable pitch converter. Before I go on, I want to point out the stock converters for both a SP TH400 and a '68 and later TH400 have the same torque multiplication ratio at stall speed, 2.2 to 1 or 2.5 to 1, depending upon the transmission application. I have owned or do own now the following GM Olds vehicles with a variable pitch converter: '63 Olds Starfire with variable pitch SlimJim '64 Olds Dynamic 88 station wagon with variable pitch SlimJim 3 different '67 Olds Delta 88s with SP TH400 '64 Olds Cutlass variable pitch 2 speed Jetaway 2 different '65 Olds F-85/Vista Cruiser with variable pitch 2 speed Jetaway I have owned or do own now the following GM Olds vehicles with a fixed converter: '59 Olds 98 with dual coupling HydraMatic, later equipped with a BM modified '55 Olds slant pan HydraMatic called a HydroStick '68 Chevy Impala with TH400 '76 Chevy Impala with TH350 Thunder Lizard with BM TH400 '97 Pontiac Trans Sport with 4T60E I do not like the way a variable pitch converter engages. I do not have a proper seat-of-the-pants feel for gear changes in a transmission that receives its power routed through a variable pitch converter. I also firmly believe in the KISS principle, Keep It Simple Sam. The more systems, the more chance of failure. The variable pitch converter is another system to go wrong. I'm not convinced of the ultimate strength of a variable pitch converter, including those modified for racing. My '63 Starfire was so-so in performance through the gears. It was the variable pitch converter. I was seriously contemplating installing the BM HydroStick from my defunct '59 into the Starfire. But a very little old lady saw to it my Starfire was totaled. The '64 wagon was nothing spectacular. Her SlimJim was a joke. The SP TH400s in the Deltas were interesting, to say the least, but the last '67 Delta, the tan one with her blue hood, driven from '72 to '82 and came to Tucson with me, with her stock 390HP 455 with an Edlebrock O4B and AFB and big dual exhausts in front of her SP TH400, had that transmission replaced with a rebuilt fixed converter TH400 in '78. It was a world of difference, all for the better. That Delta ran, period. She was my stealth Highway Patrol pursuit car. I can't wait to install fixed converter TH400s in my 3 other A-bodies and get rid of those 3 abominable 2 speed variable pitch Jetaways. The fixed pitch TH400 and TH350 in my Chevys and the fixed pitch 4T60E in my Pontiac performed and performs exceptionally well. I honestly can't see where variable pitch has an advantage. Sorry to contradict everyone else, but my experience doesn't agree. I've had both. I do not care for variable pitch. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: oil additive
John, I followed your postings on zinc and phosphoros additive for motor oil a while back. I use the GM stuff myself. I am courious as to what years this is necessary to keep engine wear to a minimum. thru the 80's into the 90's? thanks Any year where the engine uses a cast iron billet camshaft and cast iron alloy lifters requires zinc and phosphorous for camshaft and lifter wear protection, including aftermarket cast iron billet performance cams. Any year where the engine is equipped with a hydraulic roller camshaft and hydraulic roller lifters doesn't matter, for ***all*** hydraulic roller camshafts are steel billet and the rollers on the hydraulic roller lifters are steel alloy compatible with the steel billet roller camshaft. Simply put, cast iron needs zinc and phosphorous and steel does not. But, zinc and phosphorous ***will*** promote improved ring to cylinder wall sealing in any engine, no matter what. Personally, I'd tell the EPA to go to Hell and use an oil that has healthy zinc and phosphorous additives in any engine, regardless. API SJ grade oils still have very healthy zinc and phosphorous content, while SL and SM grades had the content reduced greatly, respectively. SJ grade is listed for engines in 2001 and older. SL is for 2002 to 2004. SM is 2005 and later.That's the giveaway this issue is all about emission politics and not about science and engineering. So far, all the studies done to prove zinc and phosphorous will harm catalytic converters have been inconclusive. In a couple of engineering tests, there was evidence that zinc and phosphorous actually improved the catalytic converter efficiency. But the EPA wants those 2 additives gone, for it will mean older engines will eventually die, which is exactly what the EPA empire wants. Older engines and cars can't be banned by law, for the U.S. Constitution forbids it. The LBJ left liberals created the EPA to work on emotion, not science. No succeeding administration has been able to change it that much to require science, instead. A friend of mine works for the EPA. He has both a MS in mechanical engineering with honors and a MS in chemical engineering with honors. He'll state the above to anyone who will take the time to listen. My friend likes to tilt at windmills by working for the EPA to try to change it and give it some common sense. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 425 Olds
Assuming it will run, $500.00 for engine and transmission. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Marty McLeod [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Olds Mailing List oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 6:52 PM Subject: 425 Olds I already have an interested party in the 425 that I just got. I do not know that much about them and was wondering what is a good asking price? I know they are worth what somebody is willing to pay, but I want to know where I should start for a number. As I said, it is a 65 425 with 65,000 original miles. It ran last in 1971 and is still free and has been oiled regularly. The trans is still attached. Any help appreciated on what I should ask for this engine. Marty McLeod 69 Cutlass S Convertible 455 69 Vista Cruiser -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.11/497 - Release Date: 10/25/2006
Re: 69 or 70? ebay item #160042176128
Boy, I read the QA. She's a real winner, isn't she. The moment I looked at the front end, I thought it was a '70. It takes all kinds. I wonder if someone rebuilt a wreck with parts on hand. Mix and match, the poor suckers on eBay won't know the difference. Huuummmp. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Christopher Witt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 7:22 PM Subject: 69 or 70? ebay item #160042176128 Had a call from the seller yesterday ebay item #160042176128 she's adamant that it's a '69 per the VIN and Body Tag She's not a girly girl, and knows all about VIN decoding, ya know. Then again, I am *the* Rocket Scientist Trump. Looking at the car, it is obviously a '70 I told her that either the VIN and Body Plate have been switched, or someone put '70 parts on a '69: rear quarters rear bumper decklid entire front end and radiator support and radiator top plate dash console etc. I told her go ck the VIN rivets for scallops, and the head ID for #5 or #6 That should help a bit. But, if her title and VIN tags say 1969, then that's what it sells as I guess. She says it's a transition car - whatever that means. I still say the factory never titled such a car as a 1969. WANTED: 1968-9 2 groove Water Pump PULLEY KA-401462 stamp . NOT the common PS Pump Pulley. Must have 4 bolt holes + center hole for water pump use. --- Chris Witt *the* Rocket Scientist 1303 W. Miller Rd. Lansing MI 48911 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message. Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days _ Use your PC to make calls at very low rates https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.11/497 - Release Date: 10/25/2006
Re: 400 crank
Troy, I found one that has been turned, but has been stored laying down. Would you have the crank reground since it has been stored Improperly? There's nothing wrong with a crank laying on its side. Think about it. The crank must withstand considerable force pounding on it in the engine. It doesn't bend. The force of gravity isn't going to bend it. The only reason to stand a crank on its end for storage is that it takes up much less room that way, in most instances. The factory boxes replacements cranks in cardboard boxes, stores them in the warehouse or parts department laying on their side, and ships them that way. If your worried about the crank, have a crank shop spin it and check for straightness. If it's out, it can be easily straightened. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 425 Olds
Marty, Good!!! Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Engine swap...1976 Olds 98 into 1970 Olds 98
Paul, My engine started knocking in my 70 Olds 98 last year. I found a guy with a 76 98, and he is selling the engine. What would I have to change on my 70 to swap that engine into it? Only thing that has me wondering is the Torque Convertor and Flywheel. Im thinking the tranny should be ok. You didn't say what engine is in your '70 and what engine is in the '76. Swapping the engines is a direct bolt-in. The only difference would be if one is a small block and the other is a big block. Then, there would be some engine accessory bracket differences which would be no problem as long as the correct brackets are used. If you had a small block and were putting a big block in, there could be some firewall equipment clearance issues, but on a 98 with a cavernous engine compartment, I doubt it. The converter and flexplate are the same. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: 70 W-25 hood
Sounds like a good deal. With the steel frame, the fiberglass will not crack or break when opening and closing the hood. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 1:10 PM Subject: 70 W-25 hood Looks like The Parts Place is gearing up to sell steel-framed w-25s: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItemitem=230038192310 Ebay Item #230038192310 if the link doesn't work. On digest mode, so I'm a little slow... Kevin Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX http:// www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/olds/70Olds.html '71 Cutlass S for sale, less engine and trans: http://www.wankel.net/ ~krwright/cars/olds/71_cutlass.html Snoopy: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Sports Coupe - It wants to be a W-31! And have EFI, 4-wheel discs, a 6-speed, a turbo or two... :) ...and a '71 Holiday Coupe less engine/transmission for sale - it'll be parts if someone doesn't buy it! -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.5/483 - Release Date: 10/18/2006
Re: Re:.921 lifters/rockers
My stock rockers are 1.8:1. I will adj. via of adj pushrods. Okay. So what your saying is,,use the smaller ratio(1.5:1)rockers? I thought the 1.8s was better? I wouldn't. Stay with the 1.8. There are other issues when the rocker ratio is changed, like repositioning of pushrod angle and the relationship between the rocker pad and the valve stem tip that can get one in trouble on a rocker shaft engine. On a rocker stud engine, like Olds (converted), Chevy, and Pontiac, those problems are much easier to work around. Lack of lift the cam will be ground for more lift. This diff. acceleration rate of the ramp is with a isky cam only to make up for the 1.5s?,,do i follow this correct?,,opening the valve faster? The valve can be opened just as fast with 1.8. The speed of opening and closing is controled by the cam's duration. The bad thing is the 1.5 rocker cam MUST be ground on a smaller base circle in order to have the higher lift needed to compensate for 1.5 rockers. That decreases the swept area under the lifter, which means a higher friction loading on the cam lobe surface, potentially leading to greater cam lobe wear. That's the reason for using higher lift rockers.with a larger base circle on the cam. I have heard someone is making alum. roller rockers early Olds outa Redding Cal. Also heard DRE who makes Comp. Cams will make them $$!! Same rumores for Crane cams. Rumers are worth what you paid for them. Nothing. Look at the debacle with those fogered steel and long stroke COLA Cranks that came to nothing. I have no confirmed source for aftermarket rockers. That's right. There's not enough market for them. That's why you are stuck with adjustable pushrods. But that will work fine. It's just a bit more work to set them. Think the stock rockers will live with a solid cam? Yes. The stock rockers don't care what the cam and lifters are. Plan B if i cant find some solid lifters, grind the hyd. cam,,BIG lift and use the Schubeck$/no preload lifters and see what happens? Okay. Whatever works. Milton
Re: .921lifters/TRW cam specs plz.
Randy Willis, Randy: What rocker arms do you plan to use with the solid lifter cam? The stock ratio was 1.8:1. Isky sold a lot of 1.5:1 and compensated for the lack of lift by changing the acceleration rate of the ramp. Olds W1 rockers were 1.8:1. I don't know about Gotha or Thomas or Engle, but you might check with your cam grinder if you don't already have rocker arms. Just a thought since you are carrying the banner for us 1958 Olds guys. Gotha adjustable rocker arms would be the same ratio as stock, 1.8 to 1. I was not aware that Isky adjustable rocker arms could be 1.5 to 1. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Not original motor: #270038487825 - Oldsmobile : 442
I just sent this message to the seller: -it was ordered with the larger 425 cu. in. high compression motor- is completely incorrect. GM had a total ban on any engine larger than 400 CID in any A-body from 1964 to 1969. A factory installed 425 in your vehicle is totally impossible. It did not happen. It could have been dealer installed at added cost, but NOT from the factory assemblyline, period. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Christopher Witt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 12:04 PM Subject: Not original motor: #270038487825 - Oldsmobile : 442 OK,we have been trying to do reserch on this car,but still cant come up with a whole lot I will give you all nos. we came up with.The heads had 2 no.at the rear 38382, == That's not right, need to re-ck. BB Olds will have huge LETTER at your lower left corner as you face the motor- near #1 or #8 spark plug. I can send pix. More later below. front of head N1589395, = Too many digits. Should be Letter - 6 digits - Letter perhaps you have N 159939 S, S suffix indicates Starfire motor, which makes more sense. casting no. behind water pump 386525A. There we go. That's a first year of issue 1965 425 engine. Not vailable in any A-body, and the A casting is 1965 only. The '65 442's got a B casting 400 engine. Therefore your heads should have an A on the corner. Behind dist. 939 CFD. == Nope Should be like : .. 1 123 .. Where the 1 is the year of production- an A block can only be a 1 or maybe a 2. 2nd line might be any Julian Date from 1 to 365 or 366 in a leap year I guess. The first owner drove car until 1973 and then parked until 1986 when my friend bought the car and had the motor gone through re-ringed etc.the mechanic that did the work said the bore size was 4 1/8 bore and had never been bored.Thats about all I know,please let me know any info you can come up with. === ayep, the 425's and 455's all have a 4.125 bore. We know it's a 1965 issue 425, probalby a Starfire motor. Casting ID off the intake manifold might help- large letter often on front half, sometimes in depression behind water crossover, and 6-digit number often behind carb, but on early motors, often right handy on the water crossover at the front, driver side. to the list: looks like I can write to folks ONLY if I reply or fwd, not simply 'compose' an email WANTED: 1968-9 2 groove Water Pump PULLEY KA-401462 stamp . NOT the common PS Pump Pulley. Must have 4 bolt holes + center hole for water pump use. --- Chris Witt *the* Rocket Scientist 1303 W. Miller Rd. Lansing MI 48911 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message. Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days _ Express yourself - download free Windows Live Messenger themes! http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http://imagine-msn.com/themes/vibe/default.aspx?locale=en-ussource=hmtagline -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006
Re: Olds in F1
The use of the Aurora engine in F1 and IRL is interesting, but I would believe most members of our Olds List would be more interested in our big block 425s and 455s in F1 racing in the late '60s and early '70s. In 1968, Bob McKee of Palatine, IL, built a wedge shaped Lotus styled F1 racer powered by Olds big blocks ranging in size from 414 to 427 CID. These engines came from the Olds RD engine lab backdoor program for the pro-racers. In 1969, the McKee wedge was driven by Joe Leonard. This time, the tubular frame wedge was powered by a turbo-charged 389 Olds big block. A second machine was built by McKee using a new monocoque concept using special steel alloy supplied by sponsor ARMCO Steel. The monocoque received a new big block Olds with a much modified TH400 and Feguson 4-wheel drive, all for F1 racing! Yes, an automatic can be used in roundy-round racing. McKee was also the man who built the 3 cars for the CRO-SAL racing team, with Gene CROwe and Ralph SAyLer as the principles. The CRO-SAL cars entered F1 racing in 1967. Charlie Hayes was the senior driver. The competition was Chevy big block McLarens and later megabuck Porsche Panzers. The 3 CRO-SAL cars were outnumbered, but fought to a 3rd place finish in the F1 championships. That's not bad, considering what they were up against. So what were the CRO-SAL F1 cars made of? By the mid-'60s, Formula One speeds were getting so high that cars were getting airborne in the corners at high speed and crashing. An intensive program was started, with the help of the aerospace community, to cure the problem. Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) was in its infancy, particularly in regards to the then state-of-the-art computer systems to run the intense calculations. Regardless, some fairly effective body ground effect designs and laminar flow wings were developed and tested and worked. The coke-bottle-rule from jet fighter fuselages (F-11 Tiger, F-104 Starfighter, F-105 Thunderchief, F-5 Freedom Fighter) was applied to the car bodies. F1 cars quit crashing due to aerodynamic float. The problem was that everyone adopted the same technology at about the same time. There was no individual team advantage. Enter the guys who would build the CRO-SAL team. The idea was that since aerodynamic float had just been cured, lets cut vehicle weight by using titanium for car construction. Great Idea, but there was a flaw. Also, an engine sponsor was needed. There were already about 100 teams. Just about all ran all-aluminum big block 498 and 518 Chevys and were sponsored by Chevy. Olds stepped in with some new designs from the RD engine lab and offered the team an engine sponsorship, from the backdoor. The all-aluminum Olds 455 was lighter than the all-aluminum big block 498-518 Chevys. The CRO-SAL team was born. However, in the first races, the flaw in thinking showed up. The CRO-SAL F1 titanium cars were about 15% lighter than the competition. When charging into the corners, that lack of weight at high speed caused aerodynamic float to return. We knew only so much about body ground effects and the use of wings. The super-critical wing, like used on the AV-8B Harrier, wasn't invented yet. The CRO-SALs had to back off in the corners a little to keep the cars on the ground, and then the Chevys would catch up. But on the power slide out of the corner, the CRO-SALs would leap and catch the Chevys on the straight-aways and pass them, then play the cat-and-mouse game again through the corners then back to the straight-aways. Then one day, the first CRO-SAL car went airborne right in the center of a corner and floated up and over 50 yards from the track and crashed. The roll gage and harness restraints saved the driver, but the car was a write-off. A year later, a couple of Chevys pressured a CRO-SAL driver too much, he misjudged, and floated another corner. Scratch the second F1 car, but the driver walked away. Some time after that, the third car died the same way. If we had known then what we know now about CFD, with todays computer power, the CRO-SALs wouldn't have had a problem, because aerodynamic float in racing has basically been cured with new designs and top speeds have been limited. However, for the running life of the CRO-SAL program, 3 cars and one team against 100 Chevy teams and 300+ cars, the all aluminum 455s and the 3 titanium F1 cars did a magnificent job of holding the Chevys at bay. They consistently denied Chevy a clean sweep of the CAN-AM races. They were a very large thorn in Chevy's side. Inter-division rivalry was ripe within GM between Chevy and Olds. Chevrolet was absolutely furious, because their clean sweep of the public relation campaign to sell new cars was stymied. Olds actually was selling more cars than Chevy!!! One favorite technique of the CRO-SAL team was to goad a Chevy racer to the point where the Chevy driver would over-rev his 498 or 518 trying to catch the Olds on a
Re: Olds in F1
Tom. The McKee Lotus style wedge car and the monocoque had Olds engines and with the TH400 in the monocoque were in F1. The CRO-SAL team's 3 cars were in CAN-AM Group 7, SCCA/CASC. In reviewing my post, I made a bad. In the 3rd paragraph, I inserted F1, for some strange reason. My very bad. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Tom Stoner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Oldsmobile ListServer oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 6:45 AM Subject: Re: Olds in F1 Are we mixing up racing series here? Did anyone ever run an Oldsmobile-based engine design in Formula One (F1)? I've seen references here to teams running Olds engines in the SCCA / CASC CanAm Group 7 series, and that was a pretty wild area of motorsports, but it wasn't Formula One. And of course the Aurora engine's use in the IRL series is well known and documented here and many other places. So far as I know, Bob McKee who has been mentioned here already, built cars for drag racing, the Indianapolis 500, and the SCCA CanAm, and F5000 series, but not for F1. I unfortunately don't know of any use of Oldsmobile engines in Formula One. Does anyone else? Tom Stoner Ann Arbor 2004 Oldsmobile Alero GL2 sedan [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.3/473 - Release Date: 10/12/2006
Re: Olds in F1 Confirmed
Tom, H. Then maybe my source for the McKee Olds powered Lotus wedge and the later monocoque is incorrect. Their engine sizes would not allow them in F1. So those vehicles must also be CAN-AM. Only the Olds 215 aluminum V8 could get into F1. CAN-AM was the showcase for our second generation Olds big blocks and showed they could make power equal to, or better than, that of a big block Chevy. :-))) Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Tom Stoner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Oldsmobile ListServer oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 7:12 AM Subject: Olds in F1 Confirmed Ah ha! An Oldsmobile engine design WAS used in Formula One racing for at least one year, and was a winner too. Not JUST a race winner either, but apparently winning the series championship that year. I found the following on the Formula One web site, included in the racing history of Jack Brabham: ** For 1966, when the new 3-litre formula came into effect, Brabham persuaded an Australian company Repco (a manufacturer of automotive components) to produce a Formula One engine from a venerable Oldsmobile V8 design. Equally ancient was Brabham himself, or so it seemed to the media and his much younger rivals who used to kid him about his age. Prior to the 1966 Dutch Grand Prix, his first race after his 40th birthday, 'Geriatric Jack' Brabham hobbled onto the starting grid at Zandvoort, wearing a long false beard and leaning on a cane. Sportingly, several of his laughing opponents helped him into the cockpit of his Brabham-Repco, which happened to be on pole position. Tossing aside his beard and cane Brabham proceeded to win that race, a feat he also accomplished in France, in Britain and in Germany - on the notoriously difficult and dangerous Nurburgring - a victory he felt was the most satisfying of his career. Thus in 1966 Brabham became the first (and still only) driver, to win the championship in a car of his own make. ** I believe this engine would have been the 215 cubic inch aluminum block design that was used by both Oldsmobile and Buick. This is the same engine that was later used by Rover in England, isn't it? Since 215 cubic inches is about 3.5 liters, the Repco version for Formula One racing at 3 liters probably would have been quite a modification from the production General Motors design. But there we have it none the less - an Oldsmobile engine design used in Formula One racing. I guess I answered my own question from my earlier post. Thanks. Tom Stoner Ann Arbor 2004 Oldsmobile Alero GL2 sedan [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.3/473 - Release Date: 10/12/2006
Re: Olds in F1
Willis, Very interesting information Milt. An aluminum engine that appeared to be a big block, used to sit in the display window on the 2nd floor of the Olds engineering building #66. it appeared to have twin turbos and injector stacks. I have pictures of those engines, along with other RD engines. How about an all-aluminum 455 with dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder. The intake ports flowed 15 pounds of air per minute at 6000 RPM and .500 lift. That's much more than a MOPAR 426 Hemi race head and a DOHC Ford big block. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Wilis lifters/Shubecks
Randy, I'm confused. You're going to use a solid lifter cam in your 371. Doesn't the mfg. of your new cam have the .921 lifters for it? if they make the cam for your engine, they must have the lifters. Otherwise, call up Crower. I'll bet they can get .921 solid lifters for an Olds. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 3:19 PM Subject: Wilis lifters/Shubecks Willis I dont see the 921s on the Melling website. Are your Melling solid lifters for sale or gonna be used on your wagon? Are the hollow ones any good(worn out)?..could they be resurfaced? Hollow i guess are lighter then the solids? Thanks! Randy H. Quoting Willis Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hi Randy: I have a set of .921 solids from Melling. Part # J-881. You might contact them to see if they still make them. I might also have a set of the solid hollow lifters that require a longer pushrod.These have been around a while. I got them with a bunch of parts that a friend had from a 371 motor that he never finished. The Shubecks sound great, just a little pricey. Is he the same guy that drove the Hurst Hairy Olds? Willis - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 4:53 PM Subject: .921 solid lifters/Shubecks -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.3/474 - Release Date: 10/13/2006
Re: Route 66
Steve K. James, That is a graphic option in ebay when you are setting up your auction. You can pick from a couple different backgrounds. Of course they $$$ extra!!! ebay will Nickel and dime you to death! Damn! That's plain deceptive! I really thought it was a legitimate business logo. That's fraud on eBay's part, as far as I'm concerned. ***No One*** can get away with that on any of the firearm auction sites like auctionarms.com or gunbroker.com. I think eBay is cruising-for-a-bruising by allowing that practice. Milton Schick 1964 442 Cutlass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
