Re: [Phono-L] Columbia Grafonola - electric motor question

2019-11-06 Thread Greg Bogantz via Phono-L
    Ron has a good point. Most of the early electric motors that were 
used in the first electrified phonographs were of the "universal" type.  
I seem to remember seeing this type in the early Columbia electrics. 
Meaning they had windings of wire in both the armature and in the stator 
magnets.  This is unlike the pure induction motors that were typically 
used by Victor in this period.  The rotor of an induction motor has no 
obvious wire in the rotor that comprises a winding, so it's generally 
easy to identify it as an induction motor.  The armature of a universal 
motor has a commutator with electrical contact brushes that is required 
to switch and energize the several sections of the armature at the 
correct times to interact with the magnetic poles in the stator.  Motors 
of this type can run on either AC or DC current, hence the term 
"universal".  Since the household power commonly in use at that time 
could be anything from low voltage to high voltage DC (the Edison 
system) or variations of AC voltages, universal motors were found to be 
the most compliant with these early electrical systems.  Maybe as a 
consequence of the several voltages available back then, most of the 
early universal phono motors were designed to operate on a fairly low 
voltage of around 24 to 60 volts or so.


    So in order to use them with 120 volts power that is universal 
throughout the USA today, you need to add a "ballast" resistor in series 
with the motor to reduce its operating voltage to whatever it was 
designed for.  Some of these motors have an identification plate 
attached to them that states their operating voltage range. But some 
don't.  So unless you have some other service data that tells you what 
the motor voltage should be, you have to figger that out by trial and 
error.  The easiest way to do this is to hook up the motor to a variable 
voltage device such as a variable autotransformer, typically referred to 
as a "variac" or a "powerstat".  These devices have a continually 
variable output voltage, usually determined by a knob that slides a 
contact brush around the periphery of a toroidal winding on a magnetic 
core. Then slowly raise the voltage on the variac up from 0 and observe 
the operation of the motor.  Motors such as these had their speeds 
dependent on their applied voltage.  In order to make them suitable for 
phonograph use where you want a constant speed, the motor assembly 
usually had a mechanical flyball governor attached to it which operated 
in a manner similar to the flyball governors that were used on spring 
motors.  The electric motor functions as a torque motor and its speed is 
controlled by the mechanical braking action of the governor.  So you 
would need to have the governor mechanism attached and functioning while 
you try to determine the motor voltage.  Crank up the variac until the 
governor engages the brake mechanism to provide the desired platter 
speed of 78 or 80 rpm.  If you have the motor mounted in the player, 
play a record which will produce some additional drag on the motor and 
raise the variac voltage until the playing record is running at the 
desired speed at the outermost diameter (greatest drag).  Then notch the 
variac voltage up a little more, say 5% to 10%  or so to provide some  
reserve torque for "draggy" records.  Note the voltage you are providing 
to the motor.  Then you can either leave the variac in place 
permanently, or you can figger out how to reduce the 120 volt household 
voltage to what the motor wants to see.  You can do this by inserting a 
big, power-hungry wirewound resistor in series with the motor, which 
needs to dissipate a lot of power and will get VERY HOT in operation, 
which is why they are typically wound on a ceramic core.  This is what 
most of the player manufacturers did in their original designs.  This 
allows the motor to continue to be used with either DC (maybe if you're 
still living in the downtown New York City subway system) or typical 
AC.  If you only plan to use the motor with AC, you can look for a fixed 
transformer that provides the required voltage change that you need.  
You'll need to use a fairly hefty transformer for this application since 
the motor is probably consuming 25 watts or so and the transformer will 
have to provide sufficient current for the job.


    In summary, your Columbia motor is probably a low voltage universal 
type.  So you DO NOT want to hook it up directly to your 120 volt 
household current.  Doing so will burn it up pretty quickly.  Perform 
the variable voltage check described above to determine the proper motor 
voltage and then find a way to step down your household 120 volt outlet 
power to what the motor wants.


Greg Bogantz



On 11/6/2019 5:11 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

You should be able to figure out what connects to what with visual
inspection and a meter that measures continuity.  

Re: [Phono-L] Looking for a 1941 RCA crystal phonograph cartridge

2018-04-24 Thread Greg Bogantz via Phono-L
    Gee, I'm the owner of the Electrola group, but it's been so long 
since I joined it that I can't remember exactly how to do it  :o)   
Also, they've changed it several times since I joined.  Anyway, it's a 
"listserve" just like this phono-l listserve which means that you can 
access it via the website and also you can sign up to both send and 
receive messages from the group via email.  Here's the website of the 
Yahoo Groups assortment:


https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/dir

From this page, enter "Electrola" in the "search groups" box at the top 
of the page.  This will take you to the Electrola home page.  There you 
can click on the purple button titled "join group" near the middle of 
the page.  There you can input your name and email data and choose how 
you want your messages delivered.


I think you can also still join the group by sending an email to the 
following address with the word "subscribe" in the title line of your email:


electrola-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

Welcome aboard!

Greg Bogantz





On 4/24/2018 7:45 PM, Richard Rubin via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks, Greg.  How does one subscribe to the group?

*From:* Phono-L <phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org> on behalf of Greg 
Bogantz via Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>

*Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2018 12:53 AM
*To:* Richard Rubin via Phono-L
*Cc:* Greg Bogantz
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Looking for a 1941 RCA crystal phonograph 
cartridge
    You might also want to post this request to the Electrola group on 
Yahoo that specializes in the early electronic phonos of all makes.  
We pretty much discuss everything up thru the 1950s and later.


email to: electr...@yahoogroups.com <mailto:electr...@yahoogroups.com>


Greg Bogantz




On 4/22/2018 6:24 PM, Richard Rubin via Phono-L wrote:
Greetings.  I'm looking for a complete RCA crystal cartridge from 
1941 -- if it is stamped with the part number 38598, 39919 or 38453, 
and looks like the ones in the photos, I'm interested.  This 
cartridge would have been used in several radio-phonograph consoles, 
including the RCA V-210, RCA V-215 and RCA V-225.  If you have one or 
know of someone who might, please let me know.  (Don't worry if the 
crystal is dead -- I expect it to be.)  Thanks!



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Re: [Phono-L] Looking for a 1941 RCA crystal phonograph cartridge

2018-04-22 Thread Greg Bogantz via Phono-L
    You might also want to post this request to the Electrola group on 
Yahoo that specializes in the early electronic phonos of all makes.  We 
pretty much discuss everything up thru the 1950s and later.


email to:  electr...@yahoogroups.com


Greg Bogantz




On 4/22/2018 6:24 PM, Richard Rubin via Phono-L wrote:
Greetings.  I'm looking for a complete RCA crystal cartridge from 1941 
-- if it is stamped with the part number 38598, 39919 or 38453, and 
looks like the ones in the photos, I'm interested.  This cartridge 
would have been used in several radio-phonograph consoles, including 
the RCA V-210, RCA V-215 and RCA V-225.  If you have one or know of 
someone who might, please let me know.  (Don't worry if the crystal is 
dead -- I expect it to be.)  Thanks!



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Re: [Phono-L] C-4 DD stylus

2018-02-16 Thread Greg Bogantz via Phono-L
    I don't think that playing DDs is what this stylus was intended to 
do.  To be effective for playing vertical cut discs with a lateral 
pickup, the stylus assembly has to have the tip considerably offset to 
the side relative to the line of the shank.  This allows the assembly to 
be a lever that translates vertical motion to lateral motion. This 
stylus looks like an early jeweled tip intended for lateral pickups or 
reproducers.


Greg Bogantz




On 2/16/2018 3:20 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:


Could the stylus in the attached image be for an Edison C-4 to allow 
it to play Diamond Discs?


Ron L



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[Phono-L] Last Edison factory gets a reprieve

2016-10-11 Thread Greg Bogantz via Phono-L
 Here's an interesting article about how the last of the original 
unrestored Edison factory buildings in West Orange, NJ is avoiding being 
demolished and is being given a new lease on life:

http://go.sparkpostmail.com/f/a/_hPUlARvdIHulXDrYi0U6w~~/AABF2wA~/RgRZ3qp2P0EIAGv96kh9bB9XA3NwY1gEAFkGc2hhcmVkYQhzdGFuZGFyZGANNTIuMzguMTkxLjIzN0IKAAH2dv1Xn3pShVIYYXJjaGl2ZUBtYWlsLWFyY2hpdmUuY29tCVEEAERZaHR0cDovL3d3dy5jbm4uY29tLzIwMTYvMTAvMTEvdHJhdmVsL3Rob21hcy1lZGlzb24tYmF0dGVyeS1mYWN0b3J5LWRldmVsb3BtZW50L2luZGV4Lmh0bWxHAnt9

It's amusing that one of the reasons for the reprieve is that the Edison 
cement of which it is constructed has steadfastly resisted several 
attempts by wrecking balls to bring it down.  The Old Man's obstinacy 
lives on.

Greg Bogantz




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Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic vs. Electric?

2014-03-16 Thread Greg Bogantz
 produce significant mistracking 
(blasting), the sounds of good reproducers are pretty similar.  Contrary to 
how some listeners yammer on about one tiny detail over another 
insignificant one, it's not rocket science.  The main variables in designing 
an acoustic reproducer (which are significantly different from those 
required for a modern phono pickup) are determining where the system 
resonance is placed and keeping the moving mass low enough while still 
providing sufficient compliance at the needle tip to produce minimum 
mistracking.  Higher resonant frequencies due to stiffer diaphragms shift 
the response peak higher and produce a squawkier sound.  The trick is to 
find a pleasant frequency at which to place the resonance and then damp it 
properly without killing the efficiency (loudness) of the reproducer. 
Slight variations in the resonant frequencies is the main audible difference 
among reproducers.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Andrew Baron a...@popyrus.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Big Sky Learning bigskylearn...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2014 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic vs. Electric?



Hi Ron and all ~

Using a Kent adapter or similar device, yes, much easier, and the reverse 
of my supposition.  It seems to me that a test done in both directions 
would be more informative than one or the other in isolation.  Steve 
Medved just brought this fascinating YouTube video to my attention, to be 
shared as part of this discussion, attributed to Carsten Fischer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zQw4K80QtM

It's an interesting video and certainly the methods represent 
out-of-the-box, if not pseudo-scientific thinking: The Edison side of a 
salvaged Brunswick Ultona reproducer housing (with the full needle bar, 
similar to the Edison needle bar, etc.), other side (lateral side) 
eliminated and blocked off (ostensibly sealed against air leaks), and a 
short connecting tube to mate it to Victor 10-50 (!), to take advantage of 
the folded exponential horn.  The modified Brunswick housing is equipped 
with a Victor Orthophonic Duralumin diaphragm (in hill-and-dale mode), and 
the presenter adds silent editorial comments as superimposed text, 
allowing the sound he recorded with a small condenser mic to let us hear 
the result.  Very hard, even with larger speakers to get a sense of the 
real value of the experiment, which expect is due to the limitations of 
his recording method.


Other limiting factors, or at least factors that make this somewhat less 
than an apples to apples test, is that the Brunswick system, or in this 
case the Brunswick parts adapted to the Victor arm) doesn't quite 
replicate the Edison Diamond Disc machine's tracking compliance in at 
least two ways: (a) I suspect that the compliance of the stylus to the 
groove would be adversely affected by the tracking force necessarily 
including the mass of the modified apparatus plus a portion of the 
Victor's tone arm (rather than as in the Edison system of it being limited 
to the tracking weight distributed more uniformly around the stylus), and 
(b) the necessity in this setup of the groove having to propel the entire 
equipment across as the record plays rather than the floating 
arrangement of the automatic tracking Edison DD system.


I think these factors might combine to make for a more rigid, and quite 
possibly less responsive arrangement of groove, stylus and transferred 
acoustic energy to the horn.  I think it's a fascinating choice to use the 
paper-thin Victor Duralumin diaphragm.  The presenter tells us that mica 
will also work, but one can imagine it would narrow the dynamic range. 
However the mounting of the diaphragm as can be seen might possibly be 
hampered by an oversized retaining insulator, which also looks rather 
thick and one or both of these could impede the response.


Another aspect that was bothering me a little was that the turntable dips 
and rises as it spins around (bent platter, as the spindle remains 
relatively true).  This would have the effect of alternately adding and 
subtracting from whatever norm in the diaphragm's loading that the 
presenter was able to achieve with this modified arrangement of parts. 
The up and down, added to the more rigid load of also having to move the 
entire mass of reproducer and tone arm (add another intermediate joint in 
the Victor arm to the equation for the vertical accommodation of the 
uneven platter, and whatever differences in compliance and greater 
side-wall groove contact might be present, and for me it starts to be an 
interesting but not very accurate measure of how an Edison record, played 
as engineered, would sound through one of the large Orthophonic horns.  I 
also have to wonder about the plumbing between the tone arm and the 
horn, and if this might also be a factor?


Steve, Greg, others, are there other things I may be missing here?  In the 
short term this video

Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic vs. Electric?

2014-03-15 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Here's the short history of the fidelity of recorded sound:  The 
earliest acoustic recording technology was VERY midrangey with no bass and 
no treble being recorded into the grooves.  Likewise, the earliest acoustic 
players were also VERY midrangey and incapable of reproducing bass or 
treble.  When you listen to an early acoustic record on an early acoustic 
player, they don't really complement each other so much as they do the 
same damage to the sound.  They sound like a loud telephone.  That is, you 
get a VERY, VERY or double-midrangey sound.  The orthophonic era brought 
with it much more extended and flatter frequency response in both bass and 
treble, both in the recording equipment and in the acoustic playback.  The 
net effect of playing an early electric recording on an acoustic orthophonic 
player is one of flatter, more extended frequency response.  In short, a BIG 
improvement over the pre-ortho days.  If you play an acoustic record on an 
ortho player, it sounds less midrangey and blatty than when played on an 
early player.  Some people don't like this sound and consider it not 
authentic, but it is actually flatter response than the complementary 
noise you get from a pre-ortho player.  Likewise, if you play an electric 
recording on an old acoustic player, you get a more blatty midrangey sound 
than if you play it on a more modern player.


   The earliest electronic players were actually worse sounding than the 
contemporary ortho acoustic players.  The Victor 9-40, for example, which 
has both ortho acoustic as well as early electronic playback sounds better 
in the ortho acoustic mode than it does in the all-electronic mode.  The 
reason is that the earliest electronics and speakers were pretty primitive. 
The early Victor electric players were odd designs in that they used an 
electric reproducer-driver that was amplified by the orthophonic horn.  This 
would have worked out better if the driver design was better, but the net 
effect did not produce as good a fidelity as the contemporary all-acoustic 
players.  They will play loudly, but their frequency response is pretty 
poor.  The electronic players from most manufacturers were generally not 
very good until about 1929.  The Victor RE-45 of 1929 was a revelation to 
listeners back then.  It is vastly improved over the earlier designs, and it 
compares very favorably with much more modern players.  If you are a 
collector of 1920s vintage radios, made it a point to listen to a Victor 
RE-45 or RE-75 radio/phono combination.  The same radio and speaker was also 
used the in the radio-only models R-32 and R-52.  There was no finer 
sounding radio set or radio/phono made in 1929.  Electric recording playback 
on one of these sets is genuinely satisfying.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Richard richard_ru...@hotmail.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 7:03 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Orthophonic vs. Electric?


I've never owned an orthophonic machine, but have recently been offered 
the chance to buy one (see other post), and I'm wondering if I should. My 
main concern has been one of sound quality; I've always suspected that 
acoustic records sound better on older, acoustic machines, and 
orthophonic/electric records sound best on electric machines. But this 
opportunity has me wondering: How do orthophonic/electric records sound 
when played on an orthophonic machine sound compared to when they're 
played on an electric machine (say, from the late 1920's or early 1930's)? 
All opinions are welcome, but what I'm really looking for is a 
comparison -- not just better or worse, but how they're different. And 
how do older acoustic records sound on an orthophonic machine? (In my 
humble opinion, they don't sound all that great on an electrical machine.) 
Finally, if I were to add one orthophonic machine to my collection 
someday, which one would you recommend if my top consideration is sound q

uality?

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Re: [Phono-L] newly-pressed 78 in latest Woody Guthrie box set.

2013-10-10 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Most of the newly-cut 78s are cut with a conventional LP recording 
stylus with a sharp V-tip and are intended to be played with a microgroove 
stylus.  If you don't hear from the seller otherwise, I would assume that 
this record would be like this.  If you are using a modern phono cartridge 
capable of tracking at 5 grams or less, there isn't much to worry about if 
you use the wrong stylus.  Depending on the groove width the sound could 
vary.  A wide groove (typical older 78s had groove widths of around 5 to 6 
mils) with a sharp V at the bottom will play properly with either a typical 
0.7 mil (or an elliptical) stereo stylus or with a 3.0 mil stylus.  A 
typical LP sized groove (less than 3 mils wide) will play properly with an 
LP stylus.  Using a 3 mil stylus on a narrow groove probably will play OK 
but you might hear some distortion or even groove skipping on loud passages. 
If this is the case, you should use the LP stylus.  If the bottom of the 
groove is rounded rather than having a sharp V shape, the record is intended 
to be played with a bigger 78 stylus.  Using a small LP stylus on such a 
record will result in distortion.  As I said, I would doubt that any new 78s 
are cut with such a groove shape.  But you shouldn't be inflicting any 
damage on the record with either an LP or a 78 stylus so long as the 
tracking force is low.  So use the type of stylus that sounds the best.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Matthew Bullis matthewbul...@runbox.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] newly-pressed 78 in latest Woody Guthrie box set.


Based on the info in this article, there's a 78 made for this box set of 
Woody Guthrie material. I have an e-mail into the Woody Guthrie 
organization, asking them if the disc is to be played with a needle made 
for 78s, or one made for 33s, since it could be either case. I don't want 
to use the wrong stylus. The disc includes a song from the box set, and a 
1961 Dylan recording of one of the VD songs Wooddy sang. The press release 
from Rounder is here:

http://www.rounder.com/2013/08/news/definitive-woody-guthrie-collection-american-radical-patriot-coming-from-rounder-records-on-october-22
I eagerly await my set, being shipped to me, but I'll not use the 78 disc 
until I know for sure.

Matthew
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Re: [Phono-L] Columbia Viva-Tonal 810 Photo Needed

2013-09-22 Thread Greg Bogantz
 I have a Columbia 810 with the completely original, untouched finish. 
There is a fair amount of color paint (mostly green) on the front (and 
sides) of the machine, in addition to some shading of the (probably) toned 
lacquer finish.  I have seen several of these machines and there seems to be 
a little variation from one to another in their decoration and coloration. 
I would imagine that they were hand painted at the factory and they were not 
all identical.  Here is a link to a discussion about the 800 and 810 models 
on the Talking Machine Forum.  Included here are pictures of my 810


http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewtopic.php?f=2t=12865start=10

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cartwright jim...@earthlink.net

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2013 3:09 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Columbia Viva-Tonal 810 Photo Needed


In collecting antique phonographs, I like to obtain twins, that is 
similar

but not identical models.Some years ago I obtained a Viva-Tonal 800
which not too long ago was sonically restored using information 
suggestions  provided by Anthony Sinclair carried out by local antique
phonograph repairman, Jeff Cecil  now gives excellent performance.   So I
was please to pick up its twin, the Viva-Tonal 810 at an antique mall
yesterday.However, the 810 has been stripped  is bereft of its 
original

different color wood staining of different sections of the front doors,
floral design above the doors, etc.  I want to have its original 
appearance
restored.The Viva-Tonal 810 came with a 1927 ad that gives some idea 
of

how it originally looked as does the black-and-white illustration in
Baumbach's The Columbia Phonograph Companion - Volume II.However, what
is needed to facilitate restoration of the decorative details is a clear
color image of the Vival-Tonal 810.Can anyone provide such?



Many thanks for any help any of you may provide!





Jim Cartwright

IMMORTAL PERFORMANCES, INC

Austin's Eclectic Used Record Store Since 1971

1404 West 30th StreetAustin, Texas 78703-1402 USA

(512) 478-9954E-mail: jim...@earthlink.net





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Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine

2013-09-13 Thread Greg Bogantz

Hi Ron,

   I have a Vitaphone model 60 which is the consolette version of this 
machine.  Yes, I'd say it is anemic compared with most other machines of 
this vintage.  The reason is pretty obvious - the design of the acoustic 
system is pretty silly.  What appears to be the tonearm is more easily 
understood as being actually a HUGE stylus bar.  The long wooden piece has 
the needle attached at the front end and it is expected to transmit the 
needle vibrations along the length of this wooden bar to a string at the 
back end which is coupled under tension to the center of the reproducer 
diaphragm which is located at the back of the tonearm.  The actual tonearm 
is a metal structure positioned under the wooden bar that has a vertical and 
lateral pivot near the front that supports the wooden needle bar and allows 
both vertical and lateral wiggling of the wooden bar.  As you can suspect, 
the compliance of this arrangement is ridiculously poor with a HUGE amount 
of mass (the whole wooden bar) having to be moved by the needle.  The string 
that couples the back of the wooden bar to the diaphragm can be strung over 
a metal hook at the back of the lateral tonearm pivot stanchion which causes 
the tension in the string to be directed kinda sorta laterally to the 
diaphragm.  This is the way the system is supposed to be set to play lateral 
records.  The more direct linkage of the string drawing down vertically from 
the diaphragm (not threaded over the metal hook) is the setup for playing 
vertical records.  As you might expect, the vertical setup is more efficient 
and sensitive than the lateral setup.  Consequently, I most often use my 
Vitaphone to play Pathe Sapphire discs with a sapphire ball stylus in the 
needle chuck.  It sounds better playing Pathes than any lateral records. 
Theoretically, you could play Edison DDs by mounting an Edison diamond point 
in the needle chuck.  But the tonearm friction is high enough that I haven't 
wanted to try playing DDs on the machine.  In any case, the sound 
transmission thru the bizarre needle bar system is pretty inefficient and 
lossy which makes the Vitaphone have little volume compared with more 
conventional players, either Edisons, Pathes, or Victors.  And the high 
moving mass of the wooden bar causes  considerable loss of treble response, 
so the sound is pretty mellow compared with other machines.  It's actually 
fairly pleasant and less honky than other acoustic players.


   The other weirdness of the model 60 is the complicated plumbing that 
connects the diaphragm output to the horn which is inside the LID of the 
player!  So there are swivel joints that allow the horn to be tilted upward 
with the lid as it is raised, while still enabling the acoustic plumbing to 
remain intact and functional.  So it will play through the horn with the lid 
either open or closed.  Definitely different.  Still, it's a neat looking 
piece that is seldom seen and it does work after a fashion.  I have pictures 
of my model 60 if you would like to see them.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@verizon.net
To: phonol...@yahoogroups.com; 'Antique Phonograph List' 
phono-l@oldcrank.org

Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 1:44 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine



A few MOCAPS members have been discussing the lateral/vertical Vitaphone
phono from the teens, early 20s.   Only one member heard one 20 or more
years ago and that one may have been unrestored.   He found it anemic
sounding.  S, I was wondering if any listmate(s) have a restored
Vitaphone (it has a wooden tone arm and connects to the diaphragm via a
string AFAIK).   How does it sound compared to the Name brand machines of
the same era?

Thanks,


Ron L

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Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine

2013-09-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
   This topic of the Vitaphone had come up last year on the TMF forum.  I 
posted some pictures there then that showed the way the thread connected the 
wooden needle bar to the reproducer diaphragm.  I've added a few more 
pictures there that show more of the model 60 machine.  Here's the link to 
that page for those who want to see the pictures:


http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewtopic.php?f=7t=11354

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine



Thanks for the detailed reply, Greg.   I have seen pictures of this style
already.  Amazing.

Ron

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] 
On

Behalf Of Greg Bogantz
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 3:59 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine

Hi Ron,

   I have a Vitaphone model 60 which is the consolette version of this
machine.  Yes, I'd say it is anemic compared with most other machines of
this vintage.  The reason is pretty obvious - the design of the acoustic
system is pretty silly.  What appears to be the tonearm is more easily
understood as being actually a HUGE stylus bar.  The long wooden piece has
the needle attached at the front end and it is expected to transmit the
needle vibrations along the length of this wooden bar to a string at the
back end which is coupled under tension to the center of the reproducer
diaphragm which is located at the back of the tonearm.  The actual tonearm
is a metal structure positioned under the wooden bar that has a vertical 
and
lateral pivot near the front that supports the wooden needle bar and 
allows

both vertical and lateral wiggling of the wooden bar.  As you can suspect,
the compliance of this arrangement is ridiculously poor with a HUGE amount
of mass (the whole wooden bar) having to be moved by the needle.  The 
string
that couples the back of the wooden bar to the diaphragm can be strung 
over
a metal hook at the back of the lateral tonearm pivot stanchion which 
causes

the tension in the string to be directed kinda sorta laterally to the
diaphragm.  This is the way the system is supposed to be set to play 
lateral
records.  The more direct linkage of the string drawing down vertically 
from

the diaphragm (not threaded over the metal hook) is the setup for playing
vertical records.  As you might expect, the vertical setup is more 
efficient

and sensitive than the lateral setup.  Consequently, I most often use my
Vitaphone to play Pathe Sapphire discs with a sapphire ball stylus in the
needle chuck.  It sounds better playing Pathes than any lateral records.
Theoretically, you could play Edison DDs by mounting an Edison diamond 
point
in the needle chuck.  But the tonearm friction is high enough that I 
haven't

wanted to try playing DDs on the machine.  In any case, the sound
transmission thru the bizarre needle bar system is pretty inefficient and
lossy which makes the Vitaphone have little volume compared with more
conventional players, either Edisons, Pathes, or Victors.  And the high
moving mass of the wooden bar causes  considerable loss of treble 
response,

so the sound is pretty mellow compared with other machines.  It's actually
fairly pleasant and less honky than other acoustic players.

   The other weirdness of the model 60 is the complicated plumbing that
connects the diaphragm output to the horn which is inside the LID of the
player!  So there are swivel joints that allow the horn to be tilted 
upward
with the lid as it is raised, while still enabling the acoustic plumbing 
to
remain intact and functional.  So it will play through the horn with the 
lid

either open or closed.  Definitely different.  Still, it's a neat looking
piece that is seldom seen and it does work after a fashion.  I have 
pictures

of my model 60 if you would like to see them.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message -
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@verizon.net
To: phonol...@yahoogroups.com; 'Antique Phonograph List'
phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 1:44 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine



A few MOCAPS members have been discussing the lateral/vertical Vitaphone
phono from the teens, early 20s.   Only one member heard one 20 or more
years ago and that one may have been unrestored.   He found it anemic
sounding.  S, I was wondering if any listmate(s) have a restored
Vitaphone (it has a wooden tone arm and connects to the diaphragm via a
string AFAIK).   How does it sound compared to the Name brand machines of
the same era?

Thanks,


Ron L

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Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine

2013-09-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Vitaphone evidently had a change in the design of their tonearms along 
the way.  The big flattened C-shaped weight that some of them have at the 
end of the tonearm (as seen on the open horn machine on the TFM page) was 
replaced by a large flat weight positioned below the wooden bar in my 
machine which gives it a more streamlined look.  I expect that the tracking 
force is about the same with either design.


   I don't know about my machine being Canadian.  There is no indication of 
that.  The model tag states that it was made in Plainfield, New Jersey and 
that it is a Type 60.  I suspect that the model 60 was merely the newer 
model of the 50, perhaps incorporating the change in the tonearm weight, 
perhaps among other minor changes.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: DanKj ediso...@verizon.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine


Your 60 is almost identical to my 50;  was 60 the Canadian version?  I 
also see that yours lacks the big weight that mine has, on the business 
end of the 'tone arm' ; I wonder if that would explain why mine is loud  
yours is anemic ...



- Original Message - 
From: Greg Bogantz gbogan...@charter.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine


   This topic of the Vitaphone had come up last year on the TMF forum.  I 
posted some pictures there then that showed the way the thread connected 
the wooden needle bar to the reproducer diaphragm.  I've added a few more 
pictures there that show more of the model 60 machine.  Here's the link 
to that page for those who want to see the pictures:


http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewtopic.php?f=7t=11354

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine


Thanks for the detailed reply, Greg.   I have seen pictures of this 
style

already.  Amazing.

Ron

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] 
On

Behalf Of Greg Bogantz
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 3:59 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone acoustic machine

Hi Ron,

   I have a Vitaphone model 60 which is the consolette version of this
machine.  Yes, I'd say it is anemic compared with most other machines 
of

this vintage.  The reason is pretty obvious - the design of the acoustic
system is pretty silly.  What appears to be the tonearm is more easily
understood as being actually a HUGE stylus bar.  The long wooden piece 
has

the needle attached at the front end and it is expected to transmit the
needle vibrations along the length of this wooden bar to a string at the
back end which is coupled under tension to the center of the reproducer
diaphragm which is located at the back of the tonearm.  The actual 
tonearm
is a metal structure positioned under the wooden bar that has a vertical 
and
lateral pivot near the front that supports the wooden needle bar and 
allows
both vertical and lateral wiggling of the wooden bar.  As you can 
suspect,
the compliance of this arrangement is ridiculously poor with a HUGE 
amount
of mass (the whole wooden bar) having to be moved by the needle.  The 
string
that couples the back of the wooden bar to the diaphragm can be strung 
over
a metal hook at the back of the lateral tonearm pivot stanchion which 
causes

the tension in the string to be directed kinda sorta laterally to the
diaphragm.  This is the way the system is supposed to be set to play 
lateral
records.  The more direct linkage of the string drawing down vertically 
from
the diaphragm (not threaded over the metal hook) is the setup for 
playing
vertical records.  As you might expect, the vertical setup is more 
efficient

and sensitive than the lateral setup.  Consequently, I most often use my
Vitaphone to play Pathe Sapphire discs with a sapphire ball stylus in 
the

needle chuck.  It sounds better playing Pathes than any lateral records.
Theoretically, you could play Edison DDs by mounting an Edison diamond 
point
in the needle chuck.  But the tonearm friction is high enough that I 
haven't

wanted to try playing DDs on the machine.  In any case, the sound
transmission thru the bizarre needle bar system is pretty inefficient 
and

lossy which makes the Vitaphone have little volume compared with more
conventional players, either Edisons, Pathes, or Victors.  And the high
moving mass of the wooden bar causes  considerable loss of treble 
response,
so the sound is pretty mellow compared with other machines.  It's 
actually

fairly pleasant and less honky than other acoustic players.

   The other weirdness of the model 60 is the complicated plumbing that
connects the diaphragm output

[Phono-L] Capitol Records film

2013-08-11 Thread Greg Bogantz
This came up as kind of an aside on another phono thread today, but I think 
it deserves its own thread.  I had not seen this film before and it's kinda 
interesting.  It was just posted on YouTube in June, so it's probably pretty 
new to the blogosphere.  It has Mel Blanc leading a record customer played by 
Billy May thru the process of making a Capitol record.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxkSRvkKF9k

It was apparently put together as an internal company biz promotion sometime 
around 1951.  See the poster's comments about this film on the YouTube page.  
The first part of it has Mel doing some schtick with May and sounding like Bugs 
Bunny which is kinda cornball, but the rest of the film is pretty informative.  
Some inside jokes to be seen, including a swipe at Victor early in the film 
where Mel takes May's hat and plops it on Nipper's head in a record shop 
(actually owned by one of Capitol's founders Glenn Wallichs) next to a poster 
offering Dog records for 4 cents each.  Ha.  Jay Livingston, president of 
Capitol at the time has a cameo, as do several other Capitol artists and 
celebrities including Les Paul and Mary Ford.  Color film quality is good - 
this must have been a little-played long-lost copy stored in a vault for years.

There is no mention of the Hollywood Capitol record plant, so I guess it 
hadn't been built yet when this film was made.  But it came online within just 
a few years because I remember seeing it listed on the back of Capitol LP 
jackets in the late 1950s.  The Capitol Tower was built in 1956, so the studios 
that are visited in the film are in a different building.  The record plant 
tour is kinda mixed up as they show both shellac production of 78s and vinyl 
45s all smooshed together in the dialog.  They also show 45s with the 1.5 inch 
centers partially dinked out as was commonly done in Europe, but I don't 
remember this being done for US product.  Record album book production for 78s 
and box production for the early 45rpm album boxes is also shown which I have 
not seen depicted on film before.  It's interesting to me that there is no 
mention of wax masters, so evidently lacquers had fully replaced wax by 1951.  
Capitol was evidently doing copper laminated with nickel metal
  parts at the time.  I know that RCA was using copper during the 78rpm years, 
but we migrated over to fully using nickel by the time I got there in 1973.  I 
don't know if this copper/nickel laminate process was industry standard in the 
1950s or not.  Seems kinda wasteful to me as it makes it difficult to separate 
and recycle the metals after production.  But this is an informative film 
covering record production in a period in the early 1950s that seems to be 
scarcely documented from what I've seen.

Greg Bogantz
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Re: [Phono-L] Any modern-produced 78s?

2013-06-30 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Yes, a few new releases are being made on 78rpm records.  But these are 
pressed in vinyl, not shellac.  So far as I know, nobody has pressed in 
shellac since the last ones were made in India in the 1960s.  Furthermore, 
the groove width is typically narrow and properly V-shaped so that they are 
designed to be played with a typical microgroove stylus tip, not the 3 mil 
size that fits the early 78s.  And some of the releases are in stereo, so 
the typical microgroove stereo cartridge and stylus is appropriate for their 
proper playback.  You occasionally see the new 78s available on eBay. 
Googling the subject will return several hits.  Here's an article about some 
newer 78 releases:


http://www.78rpmcommunity.com/blogs/21/13/they-re-still-releasing-78-rpms

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Matthew Bullis matthewbul...@runbox.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 9:54 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Any modern-produced 78s?


Hello from hot Phoenix. I'm wondering if there are any modern 78s that 
have been produced any time recently? The only one I ever heard of was the 
one produced in the 70s by R. Crumb, of novelty songs. I bought the three 
pieces that comprise a modern cartridge for my Stanton turntable, so that 
my existing 78s play as well as they can for my ability to transfer them 
digitally. This ability made me think of my question. I know that some 
analog manufacturers, especially of the Bluenote label, have been 
producing lps that are the size of 33s but actually play at 45 speed. 
Perhaps the reason they don't consider 78 speed is because you need to use 
a wider needle. I've never understood why the manufacturers of those USB 
turntables don't get a double stylus so that you don't wreck your 78s with 
a 33 needle, but that's a different subject. Anyhow, any thoughts about my 
original question?

Matthew
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Re: [Phono-L] Capehart Model 1011 M

2013-06-20 Thread Greg Bogantz
   That model number doesn't ring a bell with me, but it could be one of 
the Panamuse models from Capehart.  The letters in the Capehart model 
numbers indicate the model year.  The M in this model number probably 
indicates that it was made in 1941 or 42.  The famous Capeharts are in the 
3-digit series, i.e. the 100, 200, 300, and 400 series (with the occasional 
500 super-deluxe custom models), all of which had the flipover record 
changer.  The Panamuse models were the bargain models and typically had a 
drop-type changer, probably a P-40 or P-60 series in these model years.  The 
Panamuse models are not very popular with collectors, so the market price of 
one of these is likely to be not very impressive.  The Panamuse models were 
continued after WWII as were the 3-digit series (all of which were in the 
N and P model numbers), but they continued to be the bargain series and 
still are not very collectible.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Burdette Walters burdettewalt...@yahoo.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:54 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Capehart Model 1011 M


I have a friend that has a friend that said they had a Capehart tube type 
radio phonograph that works. She said it might have a few scratches, but 
other than that it is supposed to work fine. She thought it was bought in 
the 1940s.
Does anyone have any info on this machine? Any idea what could be offered 
for it? I collect only wind up phonographs, and my friend says if it doesn't 
have a crank sticking out of it, he can't run it LOL (That is actually more 
true than not).

Burdette Walters
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Re: [Phono-L] Brunswick panatropes (continued)

2013-06-05 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Although the pictures are pretty terrible, this eBay console is very 
like the one I mentioned earlier that I have pictures of.  The record 
changer is a Farnsworth P-56 which is a totally unique design and cannot be 
mistaken for anything else.  And the radio dial shows that it is AM and FM 
with the postwar FM channel numbers.  It's all circa 1947.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: DanKj ediso...@verizon.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Brunswick panatropes (continued)


I think there's one on eebay, right now: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brunswick-radio-with-panatrope-model-t4000-/151052855927



- Original Message - 
From: rpm...@aol.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Brunswick panatropes (continued)



Wikipedia supports a substantial article about Brunswick (named for its
creator, an emigrant from Switzerland) and its subsequent association 
with Mr.

Balke and Mr. Collender, all during the 19th century.

It mentions their discs and phonographs.  It eventually manufactured 
other

non-billiard objects too, and the name still does exist and a company
carrying the name Brunswick of course does exist today.  There is no 
mention of

its remaining in the record business or any objects associated with
phonographs after its sale to Warner Brothers ca. 1930 --- although 
record
collectors know that discs with Brunswick labels were manufactured well 
into the

1930s.


In a message dated 6/4/2013 9:51:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gbogan...@charter.net writes:

I have some pictures of a Brunswick console that is from about 1947,
definitely after WWII.  It is labeled as Brunswick with  Panatrope.  It
looks like it was actually made by  Capehart-Farnsworth as it uses the
Farnsworth P-56 record changer and the  chassis looks like a Farnsworth
AM-FM
model from 1947.  It even uses  the FM channel numbers from 200 to 300 on
the
dial rather than the FM  frequencies in MHz.  Capehart-Farnsworth were
among
the few makers to  use the FM channel numbers in the postwar period.  So
Brunswick  evidently continued the use of the Panatrope moniker into the
postwar  period and probably continued to use it until they went out of 
the


radio/phono business shortly thereafter.

Greg  Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From:  rpm...@aol.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday,  June 03, 2013 2:44 AM
Subject: [Phono-L] Brunswick  panatropes


I visited a friend yesterday and he showed me a  Brunswick  Panatrope 
(with
phonograph changer and radio) which he  believed dated to the  late 
1930s.


My parents owned a  model, c. 1930, with phonograph and  radiola, and 
I

had no idea  that the Brunswick name was used on combination  credenzas
 through
that decade.

Can someone tell me when the  Brunswick name was dropped from  such
machines?

 Paul Charosh
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Re: [Phono-L] Brunswick panatropes

2013-06-04 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I have some pictures of a Brunswick console that is from about 1947, 
definitely after WWII.  It is labeled as Brunswick with Panatrope.  It 
looks like it was actually made by Capehart-Farnsworth as it uses the 
Farnsworth P-56 record changer and the chassis looks like a Farnsworth AM-FM 
model from 1947.  It even uses the FM channel numbers from 200 to 300 on the 
dial rather than the FM frequencies in MHz.  Capehart-Farnsworth were among 
the few makers to use the FM channel numbers in the postwar period.  So 
Brunswick evidently continued the use of the Panatrope moniker into the 
postwar period and probably continued to use it until they went out of the 
radio/phono business shortly thereafter.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: rpm...@aol.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 2:44 AM
Subject: [Phono-L] Brunswick panatropes



I visited a friend yesterday and he showed me a Brunswick  Panatrope (with
phonograph changer and radio) which he believed dated to the  late 1930s.

My parents owned a model, c. 1930, with phonograph and  radiola, and I
had no idea that the Brunswick name was used on combination  credenzas 
through

that decade.

Can someone tell me when the Brunswick name was dropped from  such 
machines?


Paul Charosh
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Re: [Phono-L] JICO Eagle Steel Needles?

2013-04-11 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Well, silly me, I should have known that Google is my friend.  A little 
poking around the internet yields this English language site that describes 
the various JICO styli available directly from Japan:


http://stylus.export-japan.com/

And the deluxe S.A.S. models are also available from LP Gear:

http://www.lpgear.com/category/JICO.html

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Greg Bogantz gbogan...@charter.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] JICO Eagle Steel Needles?


   What interests me is that this company has a fairly complete line of 
what appear to be good quality replacement styli for modern stereo 
cartridges.  Considering that Stanton and Shure do NOT make replacement 
styli for their premium models anymore, I wonder if anybody is importing 
these from JICO.  I don't see any indication that there is an 
English-friendly website equivalent to the Japanese one, so I can't 
decipher much of the technical imformation.  But the pictures and the 
smattering of English on the site indicates that they have Shibata or 
quadrahedral line-contact types available for the Audio Technica and 
Stanton lines, and the nearly impossible to find Micro-Ridge styli for 
the Shure models as indicated by the MR in their model numbers.   Decoding 
the prices in yen for these models, they aren't cheap but the fact that 
they are available at all is a revelation.  I'd sure like to find out more 
about these.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Arvin Casas it...@arvincasas.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 8:09 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] JICO Eagle Steel Needles?



Hi All,

I happened to run across these needles and was curious to see if anybody 
had
any experiences with them?  These are modern antique phonograph needles 
made

in Japan by a precision jewelry manufacturer called JICO.  The company,
aside from precision jewelry bits, apparently makes styli for the retro
hi-fi / audiophile market.

In keeping with the recent trend/interest in Japan in antique phonographs
(some may have seen the hobby kits coming out of Japan allowing you to 
build
your own Edison, or other mechanically powered model gramophones), 
JICO

is making carbon steel acoustic phonograph needles called Eagle.

http://jico.co.jp/product/
http://shop.jico.co.jp/accessories/

I can't read Japanese, but from what I can decipher via my Google
translation plug-in, these Eagle carbon steel needles are designed for
8-10 plays.  They even package them in 50's style Japanese tins (modern
graphics, but old style, sliding cover tins).

Has anybody had a chance to try these?  I know very well we have
contemporary US and European needle manufacturers, but this is the first
I've seen of some coming out of Asia and not in a knock-off or 
counterfeit

vein.  These are being made via hi-end Japan, not the darkened alleys of
China or India.

If anything, a curious FYI.  The quest for multiplay needles, the sequel.
:-)

Arvin


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Re: [Phono-L] JICO Eagle Steel Needles?

2013-04-10 Thread Greg Bogantz
   What interests me is that this company has a fairly complete line of 
what appear to be good quality replacement styli for modern stereo 
cartridges.  Considering that Stanton and Shure do NOT make replacement 
styli for their premium models anymore, I wonder if anybody is importing 
these from JICO.  I don't see any indication that there is an 
English-friendly website equivalent to the Japanese one, so I can't decipher 
much of the technical imformation.  But the pictures and the smattering of 
English on the site indicates that they have Shibata or quadrahedral 
line-contact types available for the Audio Technica and Stanton lines, and 
the nearly impossible to find Micro-Ridge styli for the Shure models as 
indicated by the MR in their model numbers.   Decoding the prices in yen for 
these models, they aren't cheap but the fact that they are available at all 
is a revelation.  I'd sure like to find out more about these.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Arvin Casas it...@arvincasas.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2013 8:09 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] JICO Eagle Steel Needles?



Hi All,

I happened to run across these needles and was curious to see if anybody 
had
any experiences with them?  These are modern antique phonograph needles 
made

in Japan by a precision jewelry manufacturer called JICO.  The company,
aside from precision jewelry bits, apparently makes styli for the retro
hi-fi / audiophile market.

In keeping with the recent trend/interest in Japan in antique phonographs
(some may have seen the hobby kits coming out of Japan allowing you to 
build

your own Edison, or other mechanically powered model gramophones),  JICO
is making carbon steel acoustic phonograph needles called Eagle.

http://jico.co.jp/product/
http://shop.jico.co.jp/accessories/

I can't read Japanese, but from what I can decipher via my Google
translation plug-in, these Eagle carbon steel needles are designed for
8-10 plays.  They even package them in 50's style Japanese tins (modern
graphics, but old style, sliding cover tins).

Has anybody had a chance to try these?  I know very well we have
contemporary US and European needle manufacturers, but this is the first
I've seen of some coming out of Asia and not in a knock-off or 
counterfeit

vein.  These are being made via hi-end Japan, not the darkened alleys of
China or India.

If anything, a curious FYI.  The quest for multiplay needles, the sequel.
:-)

Arvin


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Re: [Phono-L] Turntable Motor Question

2013-02-14 Thread Greg Bogantz
   There were a number of direct drive phono motors made back in the 78rpm 
days.  The General Industries Flyer models are among the most common. 
Other ones that I can think of were used in Webster-Chicago players and 
changers.  These motors date from the 1930s, up to WWII.  They are 90 degree 
worm gear drives direct to the platter spindle.  They are robust and would 
easily drive a platter under the drag of an acoustic reproducer.  Most of 
them were originally used with the old horseshoe magnetic pickups that 
tracked at the same force as acoustic reproducers.  Another option would be 
to use an induction disc motor from the late 1920s such as used by Victor 
and Edison (motor made by GE).  These are also direct drive and pretty 
readily available from phono boneyard parts dealers.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 11:23 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Turntable Motor Question


I am at my wits end, trying to find someone who can rewind/fix a motor for 
my Fairy Phonograph Lamp. What I am considering as a temporary fix (not 
altering the original parts in any way) was to use a 78 rpm turntable motor 
from a jukebox. Does anyone know of a direct drive type motor that would 
handle the weight of a 12 steel turntable and the resulting drag from the 
acoustic reproducer and steel needle?
I have been researching the original Fairy motor for over 8 months and 
cannot find anything about it regarding amps, hp and rpms - there is no 
tag on any of the three that I have looked at. I am restoring a second 
Fairy lamp that has the same motor problem as my first one - motor spins, 
but slows to a stop with any load. I have been told that the motor is a 
strange one since it is wound for three different types of power. Parts 
for these phonos are non-existent, thus the idea of using a strong jukebox 
turntable motor which is already running at 78 rpms. The original motor 
has a resistor to cut the power and uses a pulley - governor - worm screw 
to meshed gear transmission to run the turntable and the speed is 
controlled by a simple brake mechanism. Any ideas or suggestions would be 
greatly appreciated.

Curt
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Re: [Phono-L] Edison Bearing

2013-01-28 Thread Greg Bogantz
   It is important to note the difference between bronze bushings and 
sintered bronze bushings.  The former require regular lubrication as does 
any other plain bearing.  But the sintering process produces a material that 
is porous and will hold lubricant in its pores which significantly reduces 
the need for regular oiling.  Here's a description of proper and improper 
machining of sintered bronze:


http://www.lm-tarbell.com/machining_sintered_bronze.htm

Such bushings have been used for electric motors for decades and are very 
dependable.  To us old-timers, they were known as oilite bearings.  Turns 
out, that is now the tradename of a company who furnishes such bearings:


http://www.oilite.com/bearings.asp

Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Randy Larson ra...@cityprayz.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Edison Bearing



Ronald
Thanks so much for your input, I really appreciate it.  The only reason I
used stainless steel is that it would last longer. The oil in the bearing
would sustain it.Bronze is such a soft metal but did not know about it's
absorbency. That may possibly reduce any wear on the metal. I will try the
bronze. Thanks!
Also, any suggestions on what oil has worked best for you? I am going to
try some teflon based oil, but they are harder to come by where I live. I
do have an order for some and hope it will be here in a couple of weeks.
Thanks again
Randy

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu wrote:

So why didn't you use something like sintered bronze for the bearing? 
It

absorbs and holds oil.

Ronald L'Herault

Lab Supervisor, Biomaterials Division
B.U. School of Dental Medicine
801 Albany Street S203
Roxbury, MA 02119




-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
On
Behalf Of Randy Larson
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 11:48 AM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: [Phono-L] Edison Bearing

I want to thank everyone who expressed interest in the Edison bearing. 
I've

received enough request that will keep me busy for several weeks.  So I'm
sorry I can't make the offer free anymore.
One question is why make one in the first place?
A collector once said to me years ago; one of the problems with an Edison
motor is that there is steel on steel friction with only the oil you can
externally place on it.  That in itself initiated the wheels spinning. I
wondered if I could improve it.
This bearing provides a continuous feed of oil to the bearing and reduce
the
constant need to oil it externally.
Maybe it's crazy and won't make a difference. But I'm sending it out to
several individuals to test it and see if it is an improvement.
Or maybe it's because I'm too lazy to oil the motor as required!
In 1963, I received my fathers Brunswick he played as a child.  I was
thrilled with it and began my enthusiasm for collecting, He would take me
all over the city as I scoured for any old unit. In 1964, he paid $60 for
my
first Edison Standard (of which he only made $75 a week). I was stunned
that
he would make such a sacrifice for me.
What is interesting is that he worked for Alcoa Aluminum. He was an avid
inventor and came up with several improvements for the machines he
operated.
He was even recognized for several awards (unfortunately nothing
financially). He passed away in 2011 at the age of 91 He was my best
friend,
hero and my inspiration. And we both admired Edison!
Maybe a long explanation of why, but there it is.
Best Regards
Randy Larson
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Re: [Phono-L] Edison and anti-semitism

2013-01-27 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The fact that Americans were more obsessed with immigrants and 
nationalities 100 years ago than we are today is well illustrated in the 
Edison BA record #4083 The Argentines, the Portuguese, and the Greeks by 
Ed Meeker.  This is a fun song and one of my favorite BAs, but it also 
illustrates the popular preoccupation that people had with ethnic and 
national stereotypes back then.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Michael F. Khanchalian mfkhanchal...@altrionet.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Edison and anti-semitism



You mean you look down on everyone except the Armenians.

Come on now George :-)

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 27, 2013, at 8:33 AM, George Glastris glast...@comcast.net 
wrote:


Be that as it may, we Greeks look down on everyone else since we are the 
creators of Western Civilization.  As the father in My Big Fat Greek 
Wedding said..Every thing comes from the Greek.


Or as my late father would say to his best friends (Mr. Kelley, Mr. 
Germeroth, and Mr. Freed)  When my people were writing the great 
philosophical books of the ancient world, your people were swinging from 
trees.  Then again, he would remind my mother that HIS family were 
Corinthian but that HER family were only Thessalian.


-Original Message- From: Vinyl Visions
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 10:12 AM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Edison and anti-semitism

Honestly, growing up in western Michigan, even as a white male I felt 
somewhat oppressed by the very nature of the clannish ethnic groups. It 
didn't matter if you were white, what mattered was whether you were 
Polish or Dutch. For example, the Dutch had bumper stickers that said If 
you're not Dutch, you're not much. Talk about discrimination... you 
couldn't buy a house in Zeeland, Michigan without going through an 
interview with a Dutch realtor - there were no For Sale/Rent signs in 
Zeeland, even though houses were obviously available. If your last name 
didn't end with a ski or other Polish ending you weren't accepted on 
the west side of Grand Rapids and the blacks were all located in their 
own section of town, because to avoid the busing and integration laws 
each small community that made up the total of Grand Rapids proper, 
incorporated into their own small towns. Benton Harbor, Michigan is a 
prime example: in the 1950's it was predominately white, but in the 60's

 a
nd 70's as blacks moved in - whites moved out across the river to St 
Joseph... the last time I was there, Benton Harbor was referred to as 
Benton Harlem and St Joseph was almost totally white.



From: rpm...@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 23:44:50 -0500
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: [Phono-L] Edison and anti-semitism

Given when he was born, where he lived, and his own  ethnic and cultural
group, I would be surprised if he were either more or less 
anti-semitic

than others in the United States who weren't themselves  Jewish.

It wasn't remarkable for a Christian home owner to want to  sell his 
home
to another Christian; for a Christian employer to want a Christian 
employee.

What we have here, I think, is a kind of social distance felt  by one
social and cultural group from another.

In my own lifetime, newspaper advertisements for houses for  sale or
apartments to rent in New York City included clues in their  texts about 
who they
wanted, e.g. --- churches nearby --- carrying with it an  implication 
of

who they *did not* want.

Edison was a man of his time, place, and  background.

paul charosh
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Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors

2013-01-09 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I have the models 611, 613, and 810 which do not have the non-set (NS) 
auto stop feature, and I have never seen any of the VivaTonal models that 
included the NS feature.  Checking the Baumbach book Columbia Phonograph 
Companion, Vol II I see that the NS feature seems to have begun with the 
new line of machines introduced in 1918 and continued thru the New 
Columbia series from 1924 to 1926.  But it seems to have been dropped in 
the later VivaTonal and electric series of machines.  The NS feature was 
somewhat complicated and may have proven difficult to maintain which may 
have been the reason that Columbia omitted it in their later models.  They 
used an improved auto-stop feature in the electronic model 920 that was 
claimed to work on all types of records, but I have not seen one of these to 
tell if it is similar to the NS or otherwise how it works.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Arvin Casas aca...@spamcop.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors



Based on what I see in mine (and its cruder ancestor in my Grafonola 75,
1915), the auto stop is a mechanism that works in conjunction with the
motor via levers - a la the brake/stop/start underneath or above the motor
board.  It is completely outside the sound reproducing system.  It should
not have any connection to / intrusion upon anything from the horn all the
way to the sound box, so it shouldn't contribute to leaks.

Very odd.  What model is yours Jim?  (btw There's a nice 2-page ad on eBay
right now that has photos of the 1927 models, mine is the lowest end and
is only mentioned parenthetically, haha.)  I agree that for Columbia to
omit this in the higher end models (especially if they went to the effort
of using velveteen) is surprising.  Do you see anything under the platter
that might suggest there might once have been an auto stop?



On 1/9/13 1:13 AM, Jim  Cartwright jim...@earthlink.net wrote:


My large Viva-tonal (cabinet larger than Orthophonic Credenza, partially
because doors slide into sides of cabinet)has green velveteen on the
turntable.   After the local repairman sealed the horn  rebuilt the
soundbox it sounds splendid even on late 1930s recordings such as Beecham
conducting  Mozart's Symphony in E-flat with the London Philharmonic.
My
only regret is that it lacks the marvelous non-set automatic stop that
would
cut off at the end of any record.   A surprising lack in this next to top
of
the line model.   Might this have been because it would introduce air
leaks?



-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
On
Behalf Of Arvin Casas
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 9:03 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors



Thanks for the helpful info everyone!  (Apologies for the late reply but I

only subscribe to the digest.)



I contacted the youtube poster of the videos that DanKj linked to and

posted on the phonoland board where I'm also a member.



Based on the responses from all three sources, it's Green-land for me! :)

I found one tiny oil stained mini-bumper in the cabinet late last night,

once green, so that confirms everyone's input.



I ordered a Victor sized green felt replacement from Walt @ Gettysburg and

will trim it down to size.  I have leftovers from a botched turntable job

on a Grafonola I restored a few months ago which I'll use for bumpers.



Ron - Interesting about the velvet.  Apparently they used felt early on,

as in my case, but by the 700  800 series Columbia had models with velvet

(I learned this via phonoland.)



Does the velvet help make the records sound smoother?  (Just kidding,

though perhaps there's an audiophile who might ardently argue that.)



Thanks again all.









On 1/7/13 9:52 PM, Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu wrote:




My Vivatonals  both have what looks like green velvet on the turntables.



Bumpers look like green felt.







Ron L






On 1/8/13 2:51 AM, DanKj ediso...@verizon.net wrote:




 There's a 602 on YooToob, TT  felt visible:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL4n1HyTfq4




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Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Reproducers and Silvertonemachines

2013-01-09 Thread Greg Bogantz

   I have models 611, 613, and 810.  They all have the same #15 reproducer.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Reproducers and 
Silvertonemachines




Both of mine have the aluminum diaphragm reproducer introduced in '26.  I
have not spotted a number designation on them.

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] 
On

Behalf Of Steven Medved
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 4:51 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Reproducers and 
Silvertone

machines


Hello Columbia Viva Tonal owners, What reproducer is found on your 
machines?

Is it the Columbia 15A type? Any Silvertone owners of orthophonic machines
out there?  Does anyone have the Silvertone machines sold by Sears in 1927
that look like Victors with different names including the Kenmore?  For
those who want so see what I am talking about I can send a huge file off
list.  This huge file was made by someone else who made copies from the
original catalog.  I believe Wayne made it, what a wonderful catalog for
those who cannot remember 1927 Sears phonographs. Steve   Date: Wed, 9 
Jan

2013 16:27:25 -0500

From: aca...@spamcop.net
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors

Based on what I see in mine (and its cruder ancestor in my Grafonola
75, 1915), the auto stop is a mechanism that works in conjunction with
the motor via levers - a la the brake/stop/start underneath or above
the motor board.  It is completely outside the sound reproducing
system.  It should not have any connection to / intrusion upon
anything from the horn all the way to the sound box, so it shouldn't

contribute to leaks.


Very odd.  What model is yours Jim?  (btw There's a nice 2-page ad on
eBay right now that has photos of the 1927 models, mine is the lowest
end and is only mentioned parenthetically, haha.)  I agree that for
Columbia to omit this in the higher end models (especially if they
went to the effort of using velveteen) is surprising.  Do you see
anything under the platter that might suggest there might once have been

an auto stop?




On 1/9/13 1:13 AM, Jim  Cartwright jim...@earthlink.net wrote:

My large Viva-tonal (cabinet larger than Orthophonic Credenza,
partially because doors slide into sides of cabinet)has green velveteen

on the

turntable.   After the local repairman sealed the horn  rebuilt the
soundbox it sounds splendid even on late 1930s recordings such as
Beecham conducting  Mozart's Symphony in E-flat with the London

Philharmonic.

My
only regret is that it lacks the marvelous non-set automatic stop
that would
cut off at the end of any record.   A surprising lack in this next to 
top

of
the line model.   Might this have been because it would introduce air
leaks?



-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
[mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
On
Behalf Of Arvin Casas
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 9:03 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors



Thanks for the helpful info everyone!  (Apologies for the late reply
but I

only subscribe to the digest.)



I contacted the youtube poster of the videos that DanKj linked to and

posted on the phonoland board where I'm also a member.



Based on the responses from all three sources, it's Green-land for
me! :)

I found one tiny oil stained mini-bumper in the cabinet late last
night,

once green, so that confirms everyone's input.



I ordered a Victor sized green felt replacement from Walt @
Gettysburg and

will trim it down to size.  I have leftovers from a botched turntable
job

on a Grafonola I restored a few months ago which I'll use for bumpers.



Ron - Interesting about the velvet.  Apparently they used felt early
on,

as in my case, but by the 700  800 series Columbia had models with
velvet

(I learned this via phonoland.)



Does the velvet help make the records sound smoother?  (Just kidding,

though perhaps there's an audiophile who might ardently argue that.)



Thanks again all.









On 1/7/13 9:52 PM, Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu wrote:



My Vivatonals  both have what looks like green velvet on the 
turntables.


Bumpers look like green felt.



Ron L





On 1/8/13 2:51 AM, DanKj ediso...@verizon.net wrote:



  There's a 602 on YooToob, TT  felt visible:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL4n1HyTfq4



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Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors

2013-01-09 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The non-set auto stop (NS) feature was unique to Columbia machines. 
As the name suggests, it did not require that the user set or adjust the 
stopping diameter which was required of other positional or proximity trip 
mechanisms.  Earlier stop mechanisms required the user to set the needle in 
the last groove of the record and adjust the stop mechanism to trip at that 
diameter.  Because early acoustic records had no lead-out groove or 
standardized lockout diameter (as became standard in post WWII records), 
automatic stop mechanisms could not be easily and universally implemented. 
The groove on early acoustic records simply ended (usually in a locked 
groove - Edison DDs did not use a locked groove) whenever the music was 
finished, regardless of what diameter on the record that was.  Victor was 
the first to use the eccentric or reciprocating lockout groove which 
activated the stop when the tonearm was moved outward by the eccentric 
groove.  Victor began using this feature in their late acoustic records.


   The Columbia NS stop feature was clever, but a bit complicated.  It was 
the inverse of what became pretty standard in postwar record players that 
sensed the speed or velocity of the tonearm's rapid inward travel in the 
leadout groove of those records that had such a groove.  Such modern 
mechanisms are known as the velocity trip type.  The Columbia NS trip 
sensed the absence of velocity - that is, it sensed wen the tonearm stopped 
moving inward when the needle was in the final locked groove of the record. 
And it did not matter what that ending diameter was - the sensing was 
automatic and required no user intervention, hence, the non-set naming of 
this mechanism.  This is a tricky thing to implement in purely mechanical 
means (try to imagine how you would do it) which is why the NS system was 
complicated.  But these NS systems are unique and interesting to demonstrate 
when they work properly.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Arvin Casas aca...@spamcop.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors



Interesting.  Makes me wonder about the authenticity of my 602 as it does
have the auto stop (unless I'm misunderstanding the NS feature Greg is
talking about).  I've yet to pop the motor board off, but so far
everything looks Columbia (from needle cups, to hinge hardware to
tonearm  reproducer)   How does one know if one has the non-set?  (Newbie
question, so please forgive me.*)

As for the auto stop on my Grafonola 75 (or 85 - the storage system
differentiating the models was missing, but I'm rebuilding one), that has
never really worked as it stops two or three times per record when
engaged via the motor plate switch.  Perhaps mine isn't calibrated
correctly or, as Greg mentions, it's just too difficult to maintain (for
service as well as consumer).

*I finally tracked down the Baumbach book (I had to order from Amazon UK,
shipped from New York!) so hopefully after it flies all over the Atlantic,
I'll have more info - if it's there at all! - and less newbie questions.
:-)



On 1/9/13 6:38 PM, Greg Bogantz gbogan...@charter.net wrote:


   I have the models 611, 613, and 810 which do not have the non-set
(NS)
auto stop feature, and I have never seen any of the VivaTonal models that
included the NS feature.  Checking the Baumbach book Columbia Phonograph
Companion, Vol II I see that the NS feature seems to have begun with the
new line of machines introduced in 1918 and continued thru the New
Columbia series from 1924 to 1926.  But it seems to have been dropped in
the later VivaTonal and electric series of machines.  The NS feature was
somewhat complicated and may have proven difficult to maintain which may
have been the reason that Columbia omitted it in their later models.
They
used an improved auto-stop feature in the electronic model 920 that was
claimed to work on all types of records, but I have not seen one of these
to
tell if it is similar to the NS or otherwise how it works.

Greg Bogantz


- Original Message -
From: Arvin Casas aca...@spamcop.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] 1927/ Viva Tonal Columbia Felt Colors



Based on what I see in mine (and its cruder ancestor in my Grafonola 75,
1915), the auto stop is a mechanism that works in conjunction with the
motor via levers - a la the brake/stop/start underneath or above the
motor
board.  It is completely outside the sound reproducing system.  It
should
not have any connection to / intrusion upon anything from the horn all
the
way to the sound box, so it shouldn't contribute to leaks.

Very odd.  What model is yours Jim?  (btw There's a nice 2-page ad on
eBay
right now that has photos of the 1927 models, mine is the lowest end and
is only mentioned parenthetically, haha.)  I agree that for Columbia

Re: [Phono-L] Cutting records

2012-12-07 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Shawn Borri can probably best answer your questions about cutting a 
cylinder.  He makes the wax blanks that you would need to cut.  But cutting 
a 78 is a whole different kettle of fish and pretty much a pipe dream if 
your purpose is to be able to play it on an acoustic phonograph.  NO 
practical means exists for recording onto a disc that has sufficient 
durability that it can be played with an acoustic reproducer.  In the 1930s 
there were disc recorders that cut into aluminum discs that could then be 
played back with the relatively crude crystal pickups of the day.  But these 
recordings were noisy and really only suitable for speech documentation or 
amateur use.  Vinyl records are still too soft to be played without 
significant wear on an acoustic reproducer.  But in order to make a vinyl or 
shellac 78, you have to go thru ALL the motions of recording a master in a 
soft material such as wax or the modern medium of nitrocellulose lacquer. 
But these recordings are WAY too soft to be played by anything other than a 
very light tracking force modern pickup.  To make a shellac record, these 
delicate masters have to be electroformed into at least a metal stamper (the 
typical process includes going thru a metal master and metal mother before 
making the stamper) which must then be put into a huge hydraulic press that 
compression molds the shellac material into the final record.  You can pay 
to have vinyl records made this way, but nobody that I know of still molds 
shellac records.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: kt_06...@yahoo.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2012 3:24 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Cutting records




Any info on best way to cut a cylinder (or to cut a 78 disc) from a digital 
file (eg, .wma)?

Any service or individual that does this sort of backwards transfer?

I have one or two digital files of some music pieces (2 minutes each) that 
I'd like to have cut for playback onto cylinder and/or onto (78) disc.

Or am I nuts?

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: [Phono-L] Brunswick model AZ-944 with a model number AP-952amplifier. information needed

2012-11-28 Thread Greg Bogantz

Hi Bob,

   I have a copy of the RCA AP-952 schematic in my Rider's Perpetual 
Troubleshooter's Manual, volume 1.  I can email it to you as an Adobe .PDF 
file if you need it.  You can view it and print it from the free Adobe 
Reader software.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Bob Maffit maff...@bresnan.net

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 10:27 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Brunswick model AZ-944 with a model number 
AP-952amplifier. information needed




   Phono list:



Some years back I had inquired about aBrunswick model AZ-944
phonograph, with a model number AP-952 amplifier.
Someone  had replied with a comment they had a schematic or 
documentation

on the machine.

I filed it away and ! can't find it now that I need it. *grin*



If anyone has such, I would appreciate an E-mail / phone / address 
contact,

so I could obtain such.



I am getting around to considering restoring this with a phono companion.
Sure would like anything on the machine etc.



I trust this is not to far off topic as the phonograph was made around 
1925

-1930?

Thanks



Bob





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Re: [Phono-L] Model L reproducer

2012-10-29 Thread Greg Bogantz
Hi Steve,  I have an original, untouched model L.  The inside distance from 
the top of the weight to the peak of the limit loop is 11/32 inch.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org; phonol...@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 9:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Model L reproducer







Does anyone have a model L reproducer that they could give me a 
measurement of the space from the weight to the peak of the limit loop?  I 
have an L weight someone turned into an N weight that I want to turn back 
into an L.   Thanks, Steve

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Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-07 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Ron is correct that most idler wheel designs are such that the diameter 
of the wheel does not affect the speed at the platter.  These wheels are 
common and used where the motor drives the outer diameter of the wheel and 
that same outer diameter drives the platter.  The exception to the idler 
affecting the platter speed is when the idler has more than one outer 
diameter such as those wheels used the the early RCA 45rpm changers RP-168, 
RP-190, and some similar changers.  These designs have two tires on them 
with different outer diameters.  The motor drives one diameter while the 
other diameter drives the platter.  On these type idlers it is critical to 
maintain the RATIO of the two diameters when resurfacing the rubber parts as 
it is this ratio that affects the platter speed.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?



I'm sure someone will come in definitively on this one, but I am almost
positive, that a true idler wheel is not an influence on the speed of the
turntable.  The rotational speed of the turntable is determined by the 
ratio

of the motor shaft to the turntable.  It might be motor shaft diameter or
circuference -or maybe it doesn't matter which you choose. I'm math
challenged.  The function of the idler is to provide traction to transmit
the rotation of the motor to the turntable but not to change its speed.
Proof of this would be a stepped motor shaft driving one idler such that
changing the position to a different step changes the speed of the
turntable.

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] 
On

Behalf Of Andrew Baron
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 1:03 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

I would add to Ron's comment about substitute rubber for the idler wheel,
that an O-ring will indeed provide sufficient traction and makes an
attractive alternative to get your platter running smoothly and quietly
(provided that the turntable bearings / bushings are well cleaned and
properly lubricated).

As Ron noted, size (I think in this case diameter) is not critical, as 
long

as it fits the steel idler disc snugly so it can't slip.  However the
thickness of the O-ring or other alternative tire should be as close to
the same as it is on the original tire, or your turntable speed will be 
too

fast or too slow.

Andrew

On Sep 2, 2012, at 8:54 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote:


And if it has an idler wheel between the motor's rotating shaft and
the turntable edge, its actual size is not critical.  You can
substitute a rubber O ring.  However, a little internet searching will
turn up places that will replace the idler's rubber with new to the same

size as original.



Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
[mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Andrew Baron
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2012 8:08 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

You're welcome Edward.

The rubber idler wheel can sometimes be reconditioned -softened and
surface-dressed with a chemical.  If it has a notable flat spot (from
decades resting against the inside of the turntable rim under
tension), it will need to be replaced.  When these get hard it
transfers all kinds of noise to the platter which then acts like a

diaphragm to magnify the noise.

The motor board, if the motor is bolted directly to it, then acts like
a sound board, further amplifying the rattle.

The original stylus might have been a metal alloy.  One such was
called Osmium, which would give more plays than an ordinary steel
needle.  It could also have been a jewel-tipped metal shank.

Electric Admirals from that era with no radio are pretty rare.

The repairs are pretty straightforward.  Best of luck, Andrew

On Sep 2, 2012, at 5:42 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:


Andrew,

Thank You for taking the time to respond as you did, with all that
helpful information!  I guessed aright that if the symptoms were
described, someone who knows them would indicate a prognosis.  I
think that since these machines are fairly rare, and yet when working
properly play records with a lovely, iconic sound, they should be
restored.  They're easier on the old records than a Victrola, also,
if you like to play them a lot, as I do.  I  have a great GE
phonograph, with an AM radio, that I would estimate to have been
available in the 40s, extrapolating from your description of this  Admir

al.


The original stylus must be gone.  I got it with a standard steel
needle in it.  And yes, the garbled music was from the record.  There
is no radio with this unit, it only plays records.

I'll wait and see if anyone in the area responds, but appreciate

Re: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...

2012-08-06 Thread Greg Bogantz
   If the record is vinyl (Gisele MacKensie recorded mostly in the postwar 
era), with an unusual handwritten label it is probably a test pressing.  The 
word master probably referred to the master tape number(s).  If the record 
is a nitrocellulose lacquer (thin plastic coatings on an aluminum 
substrate), it was probably a reference recording.  These were test cuts 
made on lacquer and submitted for approval by the AR department before the 
pairing and final sound was released for commercial production.  Cutting 
reference lacquers was standard procedure at most of the major record 
labels.  They were especially common in later days when post-production 
mastering (meaning EQ tweaking and level setting) was routinely done after 
the final master tape mix was OKd by the producer.  Which means the sound 
of the disc was routinely modified from the final mix and needed to be 
re-approved by the producer.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 8:38 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...




I discovered a record that I am not sure about and wondered if anyone 
might enlighten me on it. It is a Capitol Master #7623-10 Wishin by 
Gisele MacKensie / Flip side is Master #9624 Good Bye Sweetheart by 
Gisele MacKensieAll of the numbers and titles are hand written. The label 
has a date of 1/52 on the bottom and a sticker with M2111 written on 
it.This was apparently published in 1983, as I found a record with these 
titles and that date on Capitol, but I can't find any info on it as far as 
being a Master copy... any ideas???Curt


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Re: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...

2012-08-06 Thread Greg Bogantz
   One would think that test pressings would be valuable because of their 
scarcity - only a few were pressed for most releases, and those were 
distributed mostly to in-house production people, and maybe a few given to 
the talent.  But if you follow them in various auctions, you find that they 
don't bring much in the collector market.  The exception would be a test 
pressing that did NOT get commercially produced.  But you have to be pretty 
savvy to know which pairings and/or takes in test pressings did not get 
commercial approval.  So a commercially unreleased take from Elvis or Louis 
Armstrong might be worth something, but generally test pressings are not 
highly valuable.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...




Hi Greg,Thanks for the info... it is a vinyl record with handwritten 
entries on a printed Capitol label that appears to be made for these type 
of recordings. If it is, in fact a test pressing, do these records have 
any particular value or is it just an oddity? I have had some of the 
aluminum based reference recordings before - they seemed to be similar to 
the type that you recorded yourself. I am just not very familiar with the 
test pressings and couldn't find anything about them.Curt



From: gbogan...@charter.net
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:49:02 -0400
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...

If the record is vinyl (Gisele MacKensie recorded mostly in the 
postwar
era), with an unusual handwritten label it is probably a test pressing. 
The
word master probably referred to the master tape number(s).  If the 
record

is a nitrocellulose lacquer (thin plastic coatings on an aluminum
substrate), it was probably a reference recording.  These were test 
cuts
made on lacquer and submitted for approval by the AR department before 
the

pairing and final sound was released for commercial production.  Cutting
reference lacquers was standard procedure at most of the major record
labels.  They were especially common in later days when post-production
mastering (meaning EQ tweaking and level setting) was routinely done 
after
the final master tape mix was OKd by the producer.  Which means the 
sound

of the disc was routinely modified from the final mix and needed to be
re-approved by the producer.

Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 8:38 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Capitol Master recording question...



 I discovered a record that I am not sure about and wondered if anyone
 might enlighten me on it. It is a Capitol Master #7623-10 Wishin by
 Gisele MacKensie / Flip side is Master #9624 Good Bye Sweetheart by
 Gisele MacKensieAll of the numbers and titles are hand written. The 
 label

 has a date of 1/52 on the bottom and a sticker with M2111 written on
 it.This was apparently published in 1983, as I found a record with 
 these
 titles and that date on Capitol, but I can't find any info on it as far 
 as

 being a Master copy... any ideas???Curt

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Re: [Phono-L] Partly OT, Victor Theremin site

2012-03-04 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Hi Andrew,  You may or may not know that Dr. Robert Moog, the inventor 
of the Moog synthesizer, started his career as a consequence of his 
fascination with the original RCA theremin.  He started restoring them, then 
he decided to make new ones.  One thing led to another, and the Moog Music 
company was formed.  Today, Moog Music is alive, well, and thriving in 
Asheville, NC (my stomping grounds).  They are still restoring original 
theremins as well as making and selling new ones, in addition to all their 
newer synthesizer equipment.  A lot of musicians descend on Asheville to 
visit Moog Music and play with their toys.  Asheville started a music 
gathering called Moogfest two years ago which is a celebration of all 
things Moog.  It's been a huge success, and more are in the planning stages. 
You might want to contact Moog or one of their websites to spread the news 
of your website.  Lots of musicians and others interested in the theremin 
should see your postings there.  Here's the scoop on Moogfest.  Another one 
will probably be scheduled this year around October:


http://www.moogfest.com/

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Andrew Baron a...@popyrus.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 9:11 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Partly OT, Victor Theremin site



Hi all ~

My Victor Theremin* colleague and I have just co-created a new website: 
rcatheremin.com


For those who may be interested, here you will find practical but 
heretofore unavailable information about the original 1929 theremins, the 
first manufactured musical instrument to employ no acoustic or mechanical 
means of reproducing of sound.  In Victor advertising, it was stated: Not 
a phonograph---Not a radio---Not like anything you have ever heard or 
seen!


There are Victor records of this unique first electronic musical 
instrument that date from 1930 (Victor 25130 is one that some of you may 
have seen), and the instrument itself (which is played without touching 
it) was developed during the time that RCA was busy acquiring the Victor 
Talking Machine Company.


If any of you own or know of someone who has one of these original Victor 
Theremins, please let me know about it, as we are actively researching the 
survivors.  Both Mike and I own RCA theremins, and are not in the market 
to buy, but rather are more interested in documenting the survivors and 
sharing what we've learned about these rare and unusual instruments.


I hope you enjoy the site,
Andrew Baron
Santa Fe

(*As originally advertised in 1929, also referred to in brochures as the 
RCA Theremin)

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Re: [Phono-L] Paul Baker's email

2012-02-23 Thread Greg Bogantz

   Here's the email address I have for Paul Baker:

pabcla...@aol.com

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Paul Baker's email




That adelphia.net email address is obsolete. Adelphia went out of business 
several years ago and were taken over by Time Warner.



From: c5...@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 21:40:21 -0500
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] wanted to buy

I think this is Paul Bakers e-mail _classm@adelphia.net_
(mailto:cla...@adelphia.net) . Thanks


In a message dated 2/23/2012 10:56:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jdcoffm...@comcast.net writes:

Hi,I'm  am looking for a Columbia AG case  a Columbia BF lid.Any help
would be  greatly  appreciated.Thanks,John
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Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?

2012-02-17 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Try it, Barry.  I'll stand by and laugh.  I just got a zap from a Fisher 
FM tuner that I routinely have plugged in to an isolation transformer 
(together with a variable AC transformer) as I do with all things on my 
workbench.  Many old tube sets have capacitors from the line cord wiring to 
the chassis which can be pretty tickly, especially when these sets did not 
include the third chassis grounding wire in the line cord.  I accidentally 
touched the output side of the Fisher transformer - that would be DOUBLE the 
isolation in place.  120 volts AC - or more - will bite you when you touch 
it, isolation xfmr or not.
Isolation transformers are good for preventing large currents from flowing 
when you short things out which can blow fuses and start fires, but they 
don't do anything to reduce the voltage - that's what their purpose is.


Greg


- Original Message - 
From: Barry Kasindorf ba...@barrykasindorf.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?


Not true Greg. You would have to touch 2 different places with potential 
to get a shock and the case can't have that.
Unless the isolation transformer is bad it makers it safe. That is how you 
can use those AC/DC sets with the case hot safely. The isolation 
transformer isolates it from ground completely.


On 2/16/2012 10:10 PM, Greg Bogantz wrote:
   An isolation transformer would not prevent getting a shock from the 
case of the Motrola if it develops internal leakage.  Grounding the case 
of the unit as described previously is the best plan.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - From: Philip Carli 
philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola 
_safe_?



Many thanks!  Another suggestion I've had is the use of an isolation 
transformer at the plug - any thoughts on that? PC



From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] on 
behalf of Greg Bogantz [gbogan...@charter.net]

Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 8:27 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola 
_safe_?


   I believe the Motrola has a metal case.  The danger can occur if 
there
is electrical leakage from the internal wiring to the case and its 
attached
metal parts which can occur due to carbonized insulation that can begin 
to

develop a lower resistance.  I would recommend first testing with an
ohmmeter to determine if there is already leakage from either of the 
wires
leading from the motor to the case.  An ohmmeter reading should indicate 
a
very high or infinite resistance from either wire to the case when 
things

are correct.  If you measure any significantly lower resistance, the
internal wiring will need to be redone or repaired.  If there is good
isolation from the motor wires to the case, I would recommend replacing 
the
line cord with a modern three-wire cord with a 3-terminal AC plug. 
Connect
the black and white wires to the motor circuit as was done in the 
original

2-wire cord.  Then connect the green wire to a screw on the metal case.
This will privide a grounding connection from the case to your household
earthing system.  If electrical leakage should develop in the future, it
will be routed thru the green wire to your household ground system 
(assuming
you plug the cord into a modern 3-wire outlet).  In the worst case, it 
will

blow a fuse or circuit breaker rather than leaving the system a shock
hazard.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message -
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?




I have a Jones Motrola I'm trying to rewire, but I read that they can 
be
dangerous in their original ungrounded state?  Any ideas on how I can 
deal

with this?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Philip Carli



This email message and any attachments may contain confidential
information. If you are not the intended recipient, you are prohibited
from using the information in any way, including but not limited to
disclosure of, copying, forwarding or acting in reliance on the 
contents.
If you have received this email by error, please immediately notify me 
by

return email and delete it from your email system. Thank you.
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Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?

2012-02-16 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I believe the Motrola has a metal case.  The danger can occur if there 
is electrical leakage from the internal wiring to the case and its attached 
metal parts which can occur due to carbonized insulation that can begin to 
develop a lower resistance.  I would recommend first testing with an 
ohmmeter to determine if there is already leakage from either of the wires 
leading from the motor to the case.  An ohmmeter reading should indicate a 
very high or infinite resistance from either wire to the case when things 
are correct.  If you measure any significantly lower resistance, the 
internal wiring will need to be redone or repaired.  If there is good 
isolation from the motor wires to the case, I would recommend replacing the 
line cord with a modern three-wire cord with a 3-terminal AC plug.  Connect 
the black and white wires to the motor circuit as was done in the original 
2-wire cord.  Then connect the green wire to a screw on the metal case. 
This will privide a grounding connection from the case to your household 
earthing system.  If electrical leakage should develop in the future, it 
will be routed thru the green wire to your household ground system (assuming 
you plug the cord into a modern 3-wire outlet).  In the worst case, it will 
blow a fuse or circuit breaker rather than leaving the system a shock 
hazard.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?




I have a Jones Motrola I'm trying to rewire, but I read that they can be 
dangerous in their original ungrounded state?  Any ideas on how I can deal 
with this?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Philip Carli




This email message and any attachments may contain confidential 
information. If you are not the intended recipient, you are prohibited 
from using the information in any way, including but not limited to 
disclosure of, copying, forwarding or acting in reliance on the contents. 
If you have received this email by error, please immediately notify me by 
return email and delete it from your email system. Thank you.

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Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?

2012-02-16 Thread Greg Bogantz
   An isolation transformer would not prevent getting a shock from the case 
of the Motrola if it develops internal leakage.  Grounding the case of the 
unit as described previously is the best plan.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?


Many thanks!  Another suggestion I've had is the use of an isolation 
transformer at the plug - any thoughts on that? PC



From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] on 
behalf of Greg Bogantz [gbogan...@charter.net]

Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 8:27 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola 
_safe_?


   I believe the Motrola has a metal case.  The danger can occur if there
is electrical leakage from the internal wiring to the case and its 
attached

metal parts which can occur due to carbonized insulation that can begin to
develop a lower resistance.  I would recommend first testing with an
ohmmeter to determine if there is already leakage from either of the wires
leading from the motor to the case.  An ohmmeter reading should indicate a
very high or infinite resistance from either wire to the case when things
are correct.  If you measure any significantly lower resistance, the
internal wiring will need to be redone or repaired.  If there is good
isolation from the motor wires to the case, I would recommend replacing 
the
line cord with a modern three-wire cord with a 3-terminal AC plug. 
Connect

the black and white wires to the motor circuit as was done in the original
2-wire cord.  Then connect the green wire to a screw on the metal case.
This will privide a grounding connection from the case to your household
earthing system.  If electrical leakage should develop in the future, it
will be routed thru the green wire to your household ground system 
(assuming
you plug the cord into a modern 3-wire outlet).  In the worst case, it 
will

blow a fuse or circuit breaker rather than leaving the system a shock
hazard.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message -
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?




I have a Jones Motrola I'm trying to rewire, but I read that they can be
dangerous in their original ungrounded state?  Any ideas on how I can 
deal

with this?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Philip Carli



This email message and any attachments may contain confidential
information. If you are not the intended recipient, you are prohibited
from using the information in any way, including but not limited to
disclosure of, copying, forwarding or acting in reliance on the contents.
If you have received this email by error, please immediately notify me by
return email and delete it from your email system. Thank you.
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information. If you are not the intended recipient, you are prohibited 
from using the information in any way, including but not limited to 
disclosure of, copying, forwarding or acting in reliance on the contents. 
If you have received this email by error, please immediately notify me by 
return email and delete it from your email system. Thank you.

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Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?

2012-02-16 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Potmetal can't be soldered, typically.  You can use any screw anywhere 
inside the unit that is electrically connected to the case for the purpose 
of attaching the green grounding wire.  Make sure that your connection point 
is NOT connected to the motor wiring - test with an ohmmeter.  A motor frame 
screw might be more convenient.  The metal motor frame is likely touching 
the case at some point which is sufficient to provide grounding.  Or you can 
attach the grounding wire by clamping it or in any suitable fashion that 
provides a decent electrical connection.  Test your chosen connection point 
with an ohmmeter measurement from that point to some outside exposed metal 
on the case to confirm that it is electrically connected to the case.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?


Would soldering the green wire to the case do as well as a screw?  I 
believe the case is pot metal and tapping it for a screw might shatter the 
whole thing. Philip Carli


From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] on 
behalf of Greg Bogantz [gbogan...@charter.net]

Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 8:27 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola 
_safe_?


   I believe the Motrola has a metal case.  The danger can occur if there
is electrical leakage from the internal wiring to the case and its 
attached

metal parts which can occur due to carbonized insulation that can begin to
develop a lower resistance.  I would recommend first testing with an
ohmmeter to determine if there is already leakage from either of the wires
leading from the motor to the case.  An ohmmeter reading should indicate a
very high or infinite resistance from either wire to the case when things
are correct.  If you measure any significantly lower resistance, the
internal wiring will need to be redone or repaired.  If there is good
isolation from the motor wires to the case, I would recommend replacing 
the
line cord with a modern three-wire cord with a 3-terminal AC plug. 
Connect

the black and white wires to the motor circuit as was done in the original
2-wire cord.  Then connect the green wire to a screw on the metal case.
This will privide a grounding connection from the case to your household
earthing system.  If electrical leakage should develop in the future, it
will be routed thru the green wire to your household ground system 
(assuming
you plug the cord into a modern 3-wire outlet).  In the worst case, it 
will

blow a fuse or circuit breaker rather than leaving the system a shock
hazard.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message -
From: Philip Carli philip_ca...@pittsford.monroe.edu
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Does anyone know how to make a Jones Motrola _safe_?




I have a Jones Motrola I'm trying to rewire, but I read that they can be
dangerous in their original ungrounded state?  Any ideas on how I can 
deal

with this?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Philip Carli



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Re: [Phono-L] Amplifier and speaker for an Edison R-7 Radio

2012-02-07 Thread Greg Bogantz

Hi Don,

   The Edison R6 and R7 were 1930 model radios.  They use the same chassis 
which are usually painted a gold color.  But none of the other Edison models 
use the 1930 chassis.  The model R8 was also offered in 1930, but it was a 
rebadged 1929 model R5 with more gingerbread added to the cabinet. It uses 
the 1929 chassis.


   You might want to post your request to the Electrola Group on Yahoo. 
Those readers are specifically interested in early electronic radios and 
phonos.  Also, you could try posting to one of the several sites that 
specialize in antique radios.  These Edison chassis are not common but they 
aren't impossible to find, either.  They usually don't bring much money as 
there isn't as much interest in them as in other makes.


   All of the Edison radio products from 1928 thru 1930 used the Peerless 
single-turn voice coil speaker.  These speakers must be paired with the 
correct output transformer which is significantly different from the typical 
transformer.  Finding this pairing isn't usually a problem because the 
Peerless output transformer is usually enclosed in the base of the speaker 
assembly.  So if you find the speaker, you've probably also got the 
transformer, providing that it's good.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Don Henry phonowo...@hotmail.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 5:40 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Amplifier and speaker for an Edison R-7 Radio





Anyone out there know where I might find an amplifier and speaker for an 
Edison R-7 Radio? I have a lovely cabinet and tuner but am missing these 
items. Are any of the other models interchangeable with this one? Any help 
would be appreciated. Thanks!  Don Henry

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Re: [Phono-L] OT: clockwork automaton article in NY Times today

2011-12-27 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Congratulations, Andy, on getting this priceless piece of history 
restored to full functionality.  That must have been a privelege as well as 
great fun to do.  What a wonderful challenge in trying to figure out what 
each piece of the mechanism did.  I'm constantly amazed at the delicacy and 
precision of mechanisms such as watches and timepieces that were made 
hundreds of years ago. I have often wondered how these precision mechs were 
even made so many years ago before the availability of modern materials and 
processes.  I'm always fascinated by this stuff.  Thanks for the link.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Andrew Baron a...@popyrus.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 11:00 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] OT: clockwork automaton article in NY Times today


For those phonograph enthusiasts whose interests extend into other 
mechanical realms, Today's edition of the New York Times (Science Times 
section) ran an article about the drawing/writing automaton that  restored 
for Philadelphia's Franklin Institute Science Museum.


Here's the link:
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/27/science/maillardet-automaton-inspired-martin-scorseses-film-hugo.html?_r=2seid=autosmid=tw-nytimespagewanted=all

Best to all,
Andrew Baron
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Re: [Phono-L] Edison Diamond Disc Record NumberWanted

2011-11-17 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Tim Gracyk's book Edison Diamond Disc Re-Creations lists several 
pairings for this 1052 matrix number:


One record number 50008 has it paired with matrix 1001 titled No One to 
Love, Mixed Quartet


Record #50018 has it matched with matrix 941 titled Fairest Rose Waltz, 
Charles Daab


Record #50021 has the same pairing as #50018

Record #50022 has it matched with matrix 1053 titled Flower Song, Violin, 
Cello, Flute, Harp


Whispering Flowers by Reed Orchestra is listed as matrix #2367, paired 
with matrix 2048 Angel's Dream Waltz, Band, on record #50037.


There are some other pairings of these in the 8 series:

Record 80001 has matrix 1052 paired with matrix 999 Berceuse-Jocelyn, 
Cello.


Whispering Flowers is also listed as matrix 939, paired with matrix 1250 
On the Road to Mandalay, Thomas Chalmers, on record 80003.


Record 80022 has this matrix with the same pairing as 50022.

I have #80022, complete with the box that it originally came in.  Some of 
the earliest Edison DDs were packaged in a flat chipboard display box rather 
than in a paper sleeve.  These deluxe boxes had a color picture and written 
descriptions of the selections on the front.



There may be other pairings, but I didn't find them in a cursory scan of the 
book.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cartwright jim...@earthlink.net

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 4:57 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Edison Diamond Disc Record NumberWanted



I am cataloging my records  have one of the early etched label Edison
diamond discs that does not include the record number on either it's face 
or

edge for which I have been unable to find a record number.It is:



The Bloom is on the Rye  Henry R. Bishop, Composer - Tenor  baritone
Orchestra Accompaniment (matrix number 1052) (I've found other couplings 
of

this listed as sung by Harry Anthony  Charles Harrison)//



Whispering Flowers  Von Blon, Composer  Band - Reed  Instruments (matrix
number as best I can make out 939)



I any of you know the number of this record, I'd like to know.   Many
thanks!



Jim Cartwright

Immortal Performances, Inc.



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Re: [Phono-L] ristaucrat jukebox information request

2011-08-11 Thread Greg Bogantz
   These Ristaucrat tabletop jukes use a modified RCA RP-168 record 
changer, the first design developed by RCA in 1949.  But the modifications 
are fairly extensive as they include a mechanism that returns the record 
stack back up to the top of the changer.  So some of the changer parts will 
be the same as those of the RP-168 which is still pretty available on eBay. 
Service info on the RP-168 is available on Howard W. Sams Photofact data 
sheets.  Sams probably also had a service info bulletin on the Ristaucrat 
model itself.  For the more specific juke parts, you can check with one of 
the several jukebox boneyards and parts suppliers thru Google.  Here's one 
of the better ones:


http://www.victoryglass.com/

You might also want to visit the Electrola Group on Yahoo which is dedicated 
to the discussion of early electronic record playing equipment.  We have 
several juke owners in that group who might  be able to help you.


Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: Bob Maffit maff...@bresnan.net

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 5:37 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] ristaucrat jukebox information request



Phono Folks:



I apologize in the event this is viewed by some as off topic however, I
think this lists expertise in locating phonograph related information is
needed in this case.



I have pasted a little information on the ristaucrat mini jukeboxes made 
in
the early 50s below. At present, I can't find anyone who can work on mine 
as

those who I have approached state, no information is available which could
be used to guide repairs or remanufacture parts.



Since this list often can find Patten and other needed specifications, I
placed my hope here.



In the event you can assist, or have a referral for me, much appreciated.



Later



Bob





The following small jukeboxes all use 45 RPM records, capitalizing on the
shift to these 7 records by the release of the Seeburg M100B. These 
little

jukeboxes
were marketed as cost effective stopgap while major jukebox manufacturers
were still scrambling to shift production to 45 RPM models.



Ristaucrat 45 - 1950

Ristaucrat, Inc was located at 1216 E. Wisconsin Ave., Appleton, 
Wisconsin,

USA and announced the 45
Ristaucrat 45 Non-Selective Ristaucrat in Billboard Magazine on June 24,
1950. Initially, over 1200 were placed on location and production was
stepped up
to 100 per day per press releases. The Ristaucrat 45 was available in
either light or dark hardwood finish. According to the manufacturer, it
Plays
12-45 RPM Records, restacks automatically ... is set for 5 cent play or 2
for 5 cents ... is lightweight, weighs only 30 lbs. Measures a compact 12
high,
12 3/4 deep and 16 high The known serial number range (only 4 data
points) for this model ranges from 1099 to 3435. Given a conservative
estimate based
on known serial numbers, then only 2400 were produced, it is more likely
that the serial number range started at 0001, so an estimated production 
of

3400+
can be assumed.



Ristaucrat 45S - 1951-52
About a year after the release of the Ristaucrat 45, the S-45 was 
announced.

A July 1951 ad in Coin
Ristaucrat 45SMachine Journal stated: Low cost selective Music for all
locations. 12 record, twin speaker 45 RPM Selective Phone ... the 
Ristaucrat

S-45
... Plays 12-45 RPM records with smooth, noiseless operation. Records Play
in rotation - no long, noisy, restacking periods between selections. Twin
Speakers
- only the S-45 has two speakers to give a true, clear tone to any record
The specifications for this record play was: Weight, 40 Lbs, 13 1/2 wide,
16
1/2 deep and 17 high.



The known serial number range (only 4 data points) for this model ranges
from 50408 to 52898. Given a conservative estimate based on known serial
numbers,
then only 2500 were produced, it is more likely that the serial number 
range

started at 50001, so an estimated production of 3000+ can be assumed.
Block quote end



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Re: [Phono-L] Black Patti... Black Swan

2011-03-01 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I have to agree with you Glenn.  I'm a little dismayed at all the 
dissing of poor old Guy Lumbago here.  When I was a kid, Lumbago was already 
pretty much of a has-been, being relegated to performing once a year on a 
New Year's Eve TV show.  The Beatles were fab and no kid would be caught 
dead listening to anything his parents would remotely have liked.  That 
included Sinatra and Basie.  I thought Guy was really square and didn't 
know anybody who listened to him with the exception of one of my tekkie 
friends.  I still don't know what that was about, but as I have aged and 
mellowed and started collecting 1930s vintage radios, I find that hearing 
the Royal Canadians coming thru the speaker of an Atwater Kent just seems 
right.  Together with Benny Goodman, Glenn Miller and all the rest of the 
performers of the day.  I have actually come to even like Carmen Lombardo's 
vocals.  They are so uniquely cornball that they define the Lumbago sound 
just as much as the trademark toodling saxophones.  And I think Guy's 
dueling dual piano treatments are some of the most upbeat and enjoyable to 
be heard.  These two pieanny bangers were really talented, despite the corny 
arrangements.  You won't hear many clams from their spirited playing. 
Guy's music is just plain fun, and I enjoy it quite a lot these days.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Glenn Longwell majesticrec...@snet.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Black Patti... Black Swan


My neighbor, who is 45 and female, loves Guy Lombardo.  So does her 
father.  In
general she likes the big band era and that sweet music.  My 
mother-in-law
also likes him.  So, he certainly had his fans and still does.  And, yes, 
many
of the Decca Lombardo discs I've come across look like they were loved a 
bit.

Takes all kinds...

Glenn





From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Phono-l phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tue, March 1, 2011 8:51:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Black Patti... Black Swan


All the people that liked Lombarda are either gone or they refuse to admit 
it,

have you ever seen one of his records that looked played?



Somebody must have liked Lombardo - there sure are a lot of his records
around... :)
(although, they might have survived since no one played them)


 From: steve_nor...@msn.com
 To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 12:56:51 -0500
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Black Patti... Black Swan


 They are not half bad they are half good. But to take a Black Patti and 
 a
Black Swan and give Jerry a Welk and a Lombardo in exchange..that is 
sad.


  I think the early Guy Lombardo's on the Okeh label from the late 
  1920s are

not half bad actually. Same goes with Lawrence Welk from the late 1920s.

 
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
  To: Phono-l phono-l@oldcrank.org
  Sent: Mon, Feb 28, 2011 10:37 am
  Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Black Patti... Black Swan
 
 
 
  hose are impossible to enjoy no matter what the song.
 
  ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4qcCIH0yg0
 
  NAH ITS A GUY LOMBARDO
 
  That's right... you snatched a Black Swan out of my hands and gave me 
  a

Glen

 
  Miller saying I'd enjoy it more. Jerry
 
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Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram

2011-01-20 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Well, the English must have eventually figgered it out.  As a biker and 
with a brother who still owns a 1970 Norton Commando, I know what you're 
saying.  When I was in the engineering lab at RCA Records, we purchased from 
England an EMI record testing machine that contained a Garrard 401 
turntable, sometime in the late 1970s.  I took the tester apart to check on 
something (which wasn't working, of course) and just busted out laughing 
when I spied a puddle of oil underneath the platter bearing, pooled on the 
bottom pan of the cabinet.  Yep, it's English all right.  I called all my 
biker buddies over to have a look at it, and we all had a good laugh over 
it.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: William Zucca rochr...@gmail.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram


Did you hear the one about why there was never a successful phonograph
industry in England?

(answer:) Because they couldn't figure out how to make the machines break
down and start leaking oil every week.

Ha Ha,
GrnMountain Bill

On Thu, Jan 20, 2011 at 12:32 PM, john9...@pacbell.net wrote:


Did you hear about the dyslexic anorexic? She never thought she was fat
enough.
-Original Message-
From: Tom Jordan tom...@msn.com
Sender: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 11:25:25
To: 'Antique Phonograph List'phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Reply-To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram

I can't help it! :0)  Did you hear about the dyslexic atheist?  He laid
awake at night wondering Is there a dog?

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]
On Behalf Of Peter Fraser
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2011 11:00 AM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram

Dog is my copilot!

Sent from my iPhone

-- Peter
pjfra...@mac.com

On Jan 20, 2011, at 2:48 AM, john robles john9...@pacbell.net wrote:

 No rush..my god passed away and left me with $1600 in vet bills...my
phono purchases have sort of taken a downturn for the moment...
 Thanks
 John

 --- On Wed, 1/19/11, D P Ingram dar...@ingram.fi wrote:

 From: D P Ingram dar...@ingram.fi
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2011, 9:28 PM

 Hi. Still looking. Not found any (duplicates yet) but am sorting out our
duplicate holdings so found a lot more other stuff (phono, gram, radio ) 
:)


 Best, Darren


 ¦ D P Ingram ¦ Ab Ingram Oy ¦
 ¦ darren at ingram.fi ¦  www.ingram.fi ¦
 ¦
 ¦ MUSIC LIBRARY FINLAND - www.musiclibrary.fi
 ¦
 ¦ +358 6 781 0275 (FIN) ¦ extn 8001
 ¦









 On 31 dec 2010, at 19.05, john robles wrote:

 Thank you Darren, no hurry.
 John

 --- On Fri, 12/31/10, D P Ingram dar...@ingram.fi wrote:

 From: D P Ingram dar...@ingram.fi
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] New Phonogram
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Date: Friday, December 31, 2010, 8:27 AM

 Possibly a couple but I cannot check for a day or two until after the
holiday.

 Darren


 ¦ D P Ingram ¦ Ab Ingram Oy ¦
 ¦ darren at ingram.fi ¦  www.ingram.fi ¦
 ¦
 ¦ MUSIC LIBRARY FINLAND - www.musiclibrary.fi
 ¦
 ¦ +358 6 781 0275 (FIN) ¦ extn 8001
 ¦









 On 31 dec 2010, at 14.23, john robles wrote:

 Does anyone have copies of the New Phonogram available for sale??
Repros are acceptable.
 Thanks
 John Robles
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Re: [Phono-L] Lionel Phono Parts/Reproducers???

2011-01-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
Yes, Lionel made cheap childrens' phonos for a period of time in the 1950s. 
Yes, this was the same company that made the model trains.  Some of the 
phonos were acoustic and some were electronic models.  They turn up on eBay 
regularly.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Vinyl Visions vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 10:57 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Lionel Phono Parts/Reproducers???





Anybody ever hear of a Lionel phonograph or reproducer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=350430821863ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
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Re: [Phono-L] Early cygnet horn without the spring

2010-11-08 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I have an early 10 panel cygnet horn and springless crane on an Edison 
Fireside.  As you surmise, the system doesn't work very well as the force 
placed on the carriage by the horn varies with the position of the carriage. 
It happens to work on my particular example because the rubber coupling from 
my reproducer to the horn is old and somewhat loose.  This allows the rubber 
coupler to move vertically a bit as the carriage moves which results in a 
more uniform carriage pressure.  But this original setup was not 
satisfactory, I'm sure, and that's why the later versions use the spring to 
suspend the horn from the crane.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: phonolist phonol...@yahoogroups.com; Phono-l 
phono-l@oldcrank.org

Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Early cygnet horn without the spring




Hello,

Does anyone have an early cygnet horn without the spring?  How do these 
work without the coil spring?  I have seen them but it does not look like 
a workable system to me.


Steve
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Re: [Phono-L] Help with reproducer ID

2010-10-20 Thread Greg Bogantz
That's from a Victor RE-45 or RE-75, most likely.  It's the standard 
horseshoe magnetic pickup that was used on many early electric machines of 
the 1929 - 32 period.  The drawn metal cover would usually be embossed with 
the appropriate logo for whatever set maker was using it.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Dennis Back back...@yahoo.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 4:09 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Help with reproducer ID


Can anyone identify this reproducer and what machine is goes on?

I know it's from a Victor machine, as it obviously has the Nipper. It also 
says Victor under the Berliner phono, so I assume it is from the USA, a 
pre-dates the RCA takeover.


http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l523/Dustcollectors/vicelrep1.jpg
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l523/Dustcollectors/vicelrep2.jpg
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l523/Dustcollectors/vicelrep3.jpg

Thanks for looking,
Dennis






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Re: [Phono-L] Diamond D and heavy weight C reproducer

2010-09-25 Thread Greg Bogantz

Steve,

   I've never actually seen either a Diamond D or a heavy weight C.  What's 
the difference between them?  Can you post some pictures of them?


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Phono-l phono-l@oldcrank.org; phonolist 
phonol...@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 7:30 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond D and heavy weight C reproducer




Hello all,

This will have a very narrow band of interest and will likely not produce 
any responses but I will try anyhow.  I collect photos and serial number 
of reproducers, below are ones I am interested in.


First I am interested in diamond B reproducers with serial numbers above 
108,000.


Second I am interested in any diamond C with the brass sound tube that is 
painted black.


Third I am interested in any diamond C above 300,000.  If you do not want 
to provide photos a description would be appreciated.  All info will be 
kept confidential.  You can cut my e-mail and just reply to me if you 
like.


I am interested in information about the Amberola 60 and 80.  First if the 
reproducers are rebuilt how do they sound when compared with the Amberola 
50?  I have heard the Diamond D does not sound that good but I wonder how 
much difference the larger horn makes.


Do you have any idea how many were made and how many survive?

I just recently noticed the extra weight on the Diamond D and the Heavy 
weight C is made of lead. I have only 2 of the heavy weight attachments 
and just the weights from 2 diamond D reproducers and 2 of the heavy 
weight C reproducers.  The serial numbers from the Diamond D reproducers I 
have seen and my weights are in the 307,000 and 308,000 range.  The serial 
number of the only heavy weight C I know of is in the A31000 range. 
Fortunately for me the diamond D weights have the serial numbers.


I also noticed both the diamond B and C weights started out narrow and 
were widened.  I will have to see if I can tell when this happened.


Regarding the 80 I know of one in New Zealand, one in Canada, two that 
people I of know own in the US and one that sold on eBay.  The NZ one has 
a serial number of 1015.  1033 and 1071 are the serial numbers I have for 
two of the machines I am aware of.  If the serial number started with 1000 
then at least 71 were made, but this is merely an uneducated guess on my 
part.


The heavy weight is made universal so it will fit both the diamond D or 
the heavy weight C.


I have not seen any Diamond D or C above 309,000 and they share serial 
numbers.  I have seen a diamond C nickel plated and made of pot metal with 
a serial number over 308,000 so Edison made the diamond C and D at the 
same time.  Any information on the heavy weight diamond C would be 
appreciated.  My black pot metal one is 306702.


Some facts about the diamond C.  All the tops are made of pot metal, 
according to the Frow book the sound tubes were brass for about two years. 
82804 is the highest nickel plated one I have seen with the brass tube, 
all of them appear to be nickel plated up to 93169 which is painted black 
and has a brass tube, I do not know who painted it.  95497 has the pot 
metal tube and is painted black.


I do not know when the diamond B   A series started, but 108700 is the 
highest of the regular series.  The first ones have the same limit pin as 
the model O, but by 11965 the later limit pin was used.  The late O and N 
reproducers also have the later pin.


Steve


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Re: [Phono-L] Need Power Transformer

2010-09-15 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I believe that McIntosh still makes replacement transformers for their 
old tube equipment - they made the originals.  But be prepared to get up off 
a good chunk of change to buy one.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: jim...@earthlink.net

To: Phono-L@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Need Power Transformer


One of my MacIntosh MC-60 amplifiers has blown its power transformer 
(M-171)  the repairman has requested that I look for a replacement.   I 
realize that this piece of equipment may be a few decades too new for most 
of those who post on Phono-L but thought I'd give it a try.Many 
thanks for whatever help in finding a replacement power transformer you 
all may be able to provide!

Jim Cartwright
Immortal Performances, Inc.


jim...@earthlink.net
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Re: [Phono-L] Yankee Prince Phonograph

2010-07-05 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Ron, I second that emotion.  APM was already a has-been when I started 
collecting some years ago, so I haven't seen any of the information that has 
been published there.  I'm probably not alone as I suspect many of our 
current collectors don't have any or much knowledge of APM or The New 
Amberola Graphic and its articles.  I don't know what kind of copyright 
issues there may be, but I'd like to see some of the more timeless articles 
and studies from these early newsletters and magazines republished in ITG.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu

To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Yankee Prince Phonograph



Maybe a From the files of the APM would be a good column for In The
Groove.

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] 
On

Behalf Of phonop...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 7:34 AM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Yankee Prince Phonograph

Hi, all --- The complete story of the Yankee Prince talking machine and
its relation to other I'Neill-James products and the entire Chicago 
talking
machine scene can be read about in (some would say excruciating) detail in 
a

number of articles I wrote beginning in the early 1970s for publications
like the APM (Antique Phonograph Monthly) and the Talking Machine Review
International. Many older collectors have these publications in their
libraries, but if you don't know anyone who might have them, the story 
will
also be found in a few of the books George Paul and I wrote, primarily 
The

Talking Machine, an Illustrated Compendium and Discovering Antique
Phonographs. These books are commonly available from a variety of 
sources,

including www.phonophan.com and eBay.


It depends on how much you really want to know about O'Neill-James, 
because

I got into it on the obsessive level -- I mean, right down to quoting from
the amateur poetry of Arthur J. O'Neill. But if all you want it a
one-paragraph precis of the story, e-mail me off-line and I'll send you 
the

quick and slick version.


Cheers,


Tim Fabrizio
phonophan
PO Box 747
Henrietta, NY 14467

TEL 585 582 1586
FAX 585 582 2624
Web site: www.phonophan.com
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Re: [Phono-L] Unreleased Diamond Disc?

2010-06-25 Thread Greg Bogantz
   According to the book Edison Diamond Disc Re-creations, Records  
Artists, 1910-1929 obtained from Tim Gracyk's website, the DD #50067 is 
indicated to have been coupled (R and L sides selected) on July 21, 1913 and 
listed in the catalog in August 1913.  The selection was cut out of the 
catalog on December 6, 1916.  There is no indication that this disc was 
unreleased.  There is only one matrix number listed for the R side as #1250 
On the Road to Mandalay by Thomas Chalmers  Chorus.  The L side matrix is 
#1105 Danny Deever by Marcus Kellerman.  No other matrix numbers or 
artists are shown for this selection.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Glenn Longwell majesticrec...@snet.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2010 9:39 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Unreleased Diamond Disc?


This list has been helpful before in my finds of Diamond Discs. This time 
the story has a twist. A colleague of mine's ancestor (I think great Uncle) 
was Marcus Kellerman, a baritone. Here's a little bit of info on him 
(http://sdrcdata.lib.uiowa.edu/libsdrc/details.jsp?id=/kellerman/3page=1ui=1). 
We found a copy of a cylinder he did, Danny Deever, on the UCSB website, an 
Amberol from 1911, number 682. In the documentation I have it shows that he 
also sang this song on Diamond Disc, 50067, with matrices 1105-A, B and C in 
June 1912. All were shown as rejected. So I assumed this was never released 
commercially.


However, what I found was 50067 with matrix number 1105-5. Unfortunately, in 
this small collection I saw this is the only disc I brought home because I 
knew that Danny Deever was sung by Kellerman (there was another version sung 
by Arthur Middleton) and was hoping this was the one by Kellerman for my 
friend. If not for that I wouldn't have bought it because most of the 
records, including this one, had lam cracks. Having a number for the matrix 
makes it a quite interesting find.


My question is whether this record 50067 with Kellerman's version of Danny 
Deever ever released commercially. I know there are people on this list with 
the right Edison books to probably tell this. I'm not sure how accurate my 
information is.


If it truly wasn't released the rest of the records might be of similar 
nature - perhaps another dealer stash find. There were probably 10-12 of 
them and didn't really take a closer look because of the lam cracks on them.


Thanks for any help.

Glenn
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Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone Tone Arm

2010-04-29 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I have a Vitaphone consolette that looks different from most of the 
pictures that I see.  It's a model 60 and is similar to the model 100 but 
the cabinet is much simpler.  But the significant difference is the tonearm 
which does not have the large C shaped weight at the front end.  Mine has 
a number of differences that allow the wooden piece to be placed above the 
metal rails of the arm.  Instead of the large C weight, mine has two chunks 
of heavy metal (presumably lead) mounted between the two metal rails of the 
arm.  Like the model 100, this model 60 has the horn in the lid which leads 
to lots of fancy plumbing and joints inside the record compartment required 
to allow the lid to raise and lower while the soundbox remains stationary 
and mounted to the motorboard.  The horn is always connected to the 
soundbox, so it can be played with the lid open or closed.  A bit of a 
plumbers nightmare.  But interesting.


   The sound of these machines could best be described as mellow.  The 
wood arm is not really comparable to a conventional tonearm but is actually 
analogous to the stylus bar of a conventional acoustic reproducer as it 
couples the stylus tip to the diaphragm.  The ENTIRE long piece of wood 
vibrates just as the stylus bar on a more conventional reproducer.  The 
proper tonearm of the Vitaphone is actually comprised of the two metal rails 
that run along side of the wood bar.  The idea was very bizarre.  But the 
upshot of it is that the wooden arm functions as a lowpass filter.  The 
sound produced is soft and unusually smooth in response with a diminished 
treble (the anti-scratch feature touted in the advertizements) - quite 
unusual for an acoustic phono.  Although they play rather softly, I would 
not recommend using loud needles with these Vitaphones.  The compliance of 
the wood arm is nearly nonexistent - all the compliance, such as it is, is 
produced by the flexing of the needle itself.  To mount a loud needle would 
be akin to mounting it in a rock on a stick and expecting that setup not to 
tear the bejeezus out of your records.   And, yes, it is capable of playing 
vertical modulation about as well as lateral.  This is because the 
connection from the wood arm to the soundbox diaphragm is accomplished with 
a string that is oriented at approximately a 45 degree angle to the center 
of the diaphragm.  This arrangement causes either vertical or lateral motion 
of the wood arm to be transmitted (rather poorly) to the diaphragm.  So it's 
an interesting machine to own and demonstrate, but I don't recommend using 
it often as it's a record grinder.


   I can't remember if Phono-L has a photo hosting page.  I can furnish 
photos of the model 60 if someone can advise where to post them.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Keith Wright khwri...@hotmail.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone Tone Arm




I have updated the Vitaphone page with a brochure and some machine images. 
BTW: if you can contribute any images before you part with the tone arm, I 
would be grateful.


Thanks,
Keith

Presumably not many.  I have recently bumped into a collector who has a 
couple

of them and will be putting more pictures up on that CAPP Vitaphone page
shortly.  (So many machines, so little time...)

Cheers,
Keith Wright



Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:23:08 +
From: bruce78...@comcast.net
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vitaphone Tone Arm

Good Luck with your sale Bob, I went to the link and that is really
fascinating alternate sound technology for its time. Wonder how many of 
the

actual units still survive.

Bruce
- Original Message - 
From: Bob rvu...@comcast.net

To: Phono L List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:15:31 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Phono-L] Vitaphone Tone Arm

I am in the process of downsizing and am selling off miscellaneous 
phonograph
items. I have a complete tone arm and diaphragm for a Vitaphone 
phonograph. I
know this design was manufactured and sold in Canada from 1913 to 1916. 
It is
unusual in that the tone arm did not contain the diaphragm. It was 
mounted in
a stand at the rear of the arm. The arm is made of wood and it vibrated. 
The
vibrations were transferred to the diaphragm which is mounted at the rear 
of

the arm. My arm is similar to those shown at
http://www.keithwright.ca/CAPP/Vitaphone/vitaphone.html According to this 
web

sight the tone arm was capable of playing both lateral and vertical cut
records. I can supply pictures of my parts to anyone that is seriously
interested in it. I don't have an idea of the value of this piece so I 
will
sell it to the highest offer I receive. If you are interested, email me 
at

rvu...@comcast.net and I will provide detailed pictures of my part.


_
Hotmail  Messenger. Get them on your phone now.
http

[Phono-L] O/T: Capehart 414N-1

2010-03-23 Thread Greg Bogantz
I realize that electronic phonos are a bit off-topic for this forum, but for 
those of you who can really appreciate a fine Capehart, here's a rare find: A 
414N-1 with the VERY hard to find 41E-2 flipover changer:

eBay Item #150426006960

This is the last version of the 41E changer that has the interchangeable 
tonearms and plays both 78 and 33rpm microgroove records, circa 1949. I'm 
posting this here to try to rescue this unit from the grimy clutches of the 
Western Weenies who are going to buy this console ONLY to rip out the Western 
Electric speaker from it so that they can mount it under glass and drool over 
it. Note that there is already a bidder question posted about wanting to see 
the speaker. Then they'll sell off the N-1 power amp with the 2A3 output 
triodes to some golden ear tube yahoos. Then they'll simply junk the rest of 
the console or turn it into a liquor cabinet. That would be a particular shame 
since this is appears to be a really nice and complete original example of a 
fine, RARE Capehart. Trust me: the 41E-2 machines are RARE! Let's see one of 
our Phono-L members give this complete unit the home it deserves. This model is 
particularly easy to enjoy while you're not playing records as it has t
 he modern FM radio band which means you can actually listen to good radio 
programs on it. In glorious monophonic sound, of course. I don't have a problem 
with collectors mounting things under glass to admire, but to destroy a 
perfectly good, working piece of fine equipment just to preserve one part of it 
really grinds my gears. I'd bid on it, but I don't have room for it.

Greg Bogantz
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Re: [Phono-L] O/T: Capehart 414N-1

2010-03-23 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Abe, the Capehart radio/phonos made from the mid 1930s to about 1950 
were among the very finest, most exclusive models available in the USA. 
With very few exceptions such as the D-22 and the QU-8 which actually used a 
Capehart 16E changer and the postwar Berkshire series, ALL of which are very 
rare, RCA had nothing to compare.  Aside from a very few other specialty 
makers such as E.H. Scott and McMurdo Silver, there were were no 
radio/phonos available in the USA that compared with the Capeharts.  That's 
why these Capeharts are held in such high regard by collectors today.


   There were two common series made during these years, the 100 and the 
400 series (model number were in these ranges).  The 100 series was the 
cheaper one with smaller amplifiers and less elaborate cabinetry.  The 400 
series looked similar to the 100 series, but they usually (not always) had 
more and/or larger amplifiers and more expensive speakers and more elaborate 
cabinets.  There was also a much rarer 300 series which were tall-boy 
cabinets with the components stacked vertically, and the EXTREMELY RARE 500 
series which were the SUPER deluxe models available usually by special, 
customized order only.  All these series used the exclusive Capehart 
flipover record changers.  The early (prewar) record changers were the 16E 
models (several variations), and the postwar changers were the 41E models 
which are easily identifiable by their chromed, tubular tonearms.  All these 
changers played only 78rpm until the 41E-2 model which came out about late 
1948.  This model had interchangeable TONEARMS (not just headshells) that 
provided for either 78rpm or for microgroove 33rpm playback.  The 41E-2 was 
made for only a short time (probably less than 2 years) before Capehart 
discontinued the flipover changers completely and went to cheaper drop-type 
changers, most of which were furnished by VM (Voice of Music).  These later 
Capeharts (starting around 1950) used a different numbering system and were 
cheapened considerably from the early 100 and 400 series.  These later 
Capeharts are not very collectible and do not bring high prices from 
collectors.  The B-1002-F model that you have mentioned in Arizona is an 
example of one of these later, post 1950 models.  It would probably bring 
around $200 in nice condition.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Abe Feder abefed...@gmail.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] O/T: Capehart 414N-1


Greg, I have noted that you and several members like the Capehart units . 
I

have seen a few of them here in Arizona from time to time.-I know nothing
about them. There is one for sale now on Craigslist a model # B-1002-F.
Owner says that it has been in his family for 60 years. He has original
instruction manual as well as bill of sale and is asking $750.00. Any
comments about it or price?
Thx Abe Feder

On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 2:46 PM, Greg Bogantz gbogan...@charter.net 
wrote:



I realize that electronic phonos are a bit off-topic for this forum, but
for those of you who can really appreciate a fine Capehart, here's a rare
find: A 414N-1 with the VERY hard to find 41E-2 flipover changer:

eBay Item #150426006960

This is the last version of the 41E changer that has the interchangeable
tonearms and plays both 78 and 33rpm microgroove records, circa 1949. I'm
posting this here to try to rescue this unit from the grimy clutches of 
the

Western Weenies who are going to buy this console ONLY to rip out the
Western Electric speaker from it so that they can mount it under glass 
and

drool over it. Note that there is already a bidder question posted about
wanting to see the speaker. Then they'll sell off the N-1 power amp with 
the
2A3 output triodes to some golden ear tube yahoos. Then they'll simply 
junk

the rest of the console or turn it into a liquor cabinet. That would be a
particular shame since this is appears to be a really nice and complete
original example of a fine, RARE Capehart. Trust me: the 41E-2 machines 
are
RARE! Let's see one of our Phono-L members give this complete unit the 
home

it deserves. This model is particularly easy to enjoy while you're not
playing records as it has t
 he modern FM radio band which means you can actually listen to good 
radio

programs on it. In glorious monophonic sound, of course. I don't have a
problem with collectors mounting things under glass to admire, but to
destroy a perfectly good, working piece of fine equipment just to 
preserve
one part of it really grinds my gears. I'd bid on it, but I don't have 
room

for it.

Greg Bogantz
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Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic Reproducer Gaskets question...

2010-03-22 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The Victor orthophonic reproducer (or #5 as it is sometimes known) was 
designed to have all the diaphragm flexure accommodated by the pleats 
stamped into the metal diaphragm.  Unlike earlier designs, the gaskets were 
not intended to provide flexure - they were strictly there to seal the air 
leaks where the diaphragm joins the body of the reproducer.  This design was 
purposely done to make the flexure and, therefore, the mechanical resonance 
more consistent from one unit to another and to ensure that it remains 
constant over time.  This provided a much more consistent and predictable 
performance from one production unit to another.  It was known to the 
designers of this reproducer that the earlier designs employing rubber 
gaskets deteriorated over time which resulted in decreased performance.  The 
correct replacement gaskets for the #5 would be those that seal well without 
providing any flexure.  If you do use rubber gaskets, the flexure that they 
provide will lower the diaphragm resonance frequency.  This will emphasize 
the bass frequencies, but at the expense of the treble.  The resulting sound 
will be more bass-heavy and with less treble and brilliance.  The amount of 
this change in frequency response will be dependent on the softness of the 
gasket rubber and on the amount of clamping force you have when they are in 
place.  In other words, the difference will be somewhat unpredictable and 
will vary from one implementation to another and with how the clamping force 
has been adjusted.  This is exactly what one has to deal with when 
rebuilding the earlier designs such as Edisons and the early Victors that 
require flexure in their gaskets, and good restorers are aware of this. 
Some owners may prefer this more bass-heavy sound in the #5, but it will not 
be representing the intended frequency response of the original design of 
the reproducer.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: john robles john9...@pacbell.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic Reproducer Gaskets question...


My gaskets don't appear to have anything to do with flexibility since they 
are so thin. I can't imagine how they do any more then keep the metal 
backing from touching the diaphragm directly.

John Robles

--- On Mon, 3/22/10, Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu wrote:

From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic Reproducer Gaskets question...
To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
Date: Monday, March 22, 2010, 9:15 AM

In theory, they only make an air seal, rather than playing a part in
compliance/flexibility, right?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On
Behalf Of Steven Medved
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 11:34 AM
To: Phono-l
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic Reproducer Gaskets question...


Hello Al,

The original looks like paper coated with shellac to me. I have spoken to
people who rebuild them and they tell me you get better sound from neoprene.
I would assume Ron Sitko is selling them.

Steve


From: clockworkh...@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 05:26:27 -0400
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Orthophonic Reproducer Gaskets question...

Does anyone on this learned list know what material was used as gaskets on



the Victor Orthophonic reproducer? I have been asked to make a punch and
die to cut them out but if someone is already making them I don't intend

on

reinventing the wheel.

Thanks and best wishes to all on the list,

Al



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Re: [Phono-L] Coin machine or jukebox needles?

2010-03-11 Thread Greg Bogantz

Hi Chris,

   Yes, that's right.  There was no shaping of the end of the wire on 
Victor Tungstones.  I just confirmed that by looking at a couple of NOS 
Tungstones that I have.  The wire was sheared to essentially a flat end 
shape.  Victor advised playing a junk record first to shape the end of the 
wire before using a new needle to play good records.  Likewise, Victor 
advised reshaping the needle by playing a junk record if the user ever 
removed the needle and then remounted it in the reproducer.  The wire wears 
into the shape of the groove in just a minute or so of play, so the initial 
shape of it is irrelevant.


I failed to comment earlier specifically on the claim that osmium and other 
hard needles could be removed and remounted without a problem.  This is NOT 
correct, for the same reason that Victor advised reshaping their tungsten 
needles if they were remounted.  The needle tip wears into the V shape of 
the groove fairly quickly, depending on the hardness of the needle. 
Remounting the needle with exactly the same orientation as when it was 
removed is almost impossible.  After remounting, there is a very high 
probability that the misoriented needle will severely gouge the record for a 
while until it is reformed to fit the groove, the moreso with the harder 
needles.  This is not so much of a problem with the tungsten wire needles as 
they can be reformed in only about a minute of play with a junk record.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Chris Kocsis chris...@cox.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Coin machine or jukebox needles?



Thank you, Greg!

Are you saying that tungsten wire shaped needles are just clipped lengths 
of tungsten wire, without a point being formed on them before being used 
to play a record?


Chris

Greg Bogantz wrote:
   Osmium tipped needles were a transitional style.  They were the 
cheapest permanent needle typically marketed in the late 1930s thru the 
'50s.  The more expensive varieties of permanent needles were sapphire 
or ruby and the most expensive were diamond.  People were using record 
changers and didn't want to mess around with changing steel needles all 
the time, so these styles became popular.  The problem with all of these 
needles in that time period is that the pickups tracked at too high a 
force for any of them to be optimal with regard to record wear.  The 
magnetic and crystal pickups of that period typically tracked at between 
30 and 80 grams.  Although that's less than the 80 to 150 grams of the 
earlier acoustic reproducer period, it's still just too high for any of 
these hard needles.  They were especially deadly when used with the early 
vinyl 78s that were beginning to appear after WWII.  The proper 
technology for high tracking forces was the steel or tungsten wire needle 
when used with shellac records that contained abrasive fillers that were 
intended to quickly wear the needle into conformance with the groove 
shape.  But, of course, the steel needles needed to be changed with every 
record side or two.  Tungsten WIRE shaped needles are superior to the 
osmium tipped needles because the cylindrical wire shape retains the same 
cross-sectional area during the entire lifetime of the needle.  The 
osmium needles were tapered and as they wore they got a bigger cross 
section.  This is fine until the cross section gets too big to fit into 
the groove width which happens after just a few records are played. Then 
the needle forms shoulders that ride outside the groove and on the land 
of the record.  This lifts the needle out of close contact with the 
groove walls which leads to mistracking, distortion, and high record 
wear.  These hard needles, especially the sapphire and diamond ones don't 
wear down quickly, and instead wear the records.  These needles that were 
typical in this time period are the main reason that records that have 
survived from the '30s thru the '50s look worn and sound more distorted 
and worn than records that have survived from the teens and '20s and that 
were played properly with steel or tungsten wire needles.  The use of 
these hard needles only became proper when pickup tracking forces were 
reduced to 10 grams or less in the 1950s.  I don't feel comfortable using 
them even above about 5 grams.  Tracking forces of 1 to 2 grams became 
commonplace in the early 1960s, and jewel-tipped needles are perfectly 
satisfactory when used in these pickups.


   The bottom line is, I would NOT recommend using hard needles in any 
pickup tracking at more than 10 grams if you want to preserve your 
records. When new, these needles will sound good for a while.  But they 
will be grinding the bejeezus out of your records if you are tracking 
them at 30 grams or more.  If you have a jukebox or record changer that 
operates at high tracking force, use tungsten wire needles.  Or change 
the pickup (and tonearm

Re: [Phono-L] Coin machine or jukebox needles?

2010-03-10 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Osmium tipped needles were a transitional style.  They were the cheapest 
permanent needle typically marketed in the late 1930s thru the '50s.  The 
more expensive varieties of permanent needles were sapphire or ruby and 
the most expensive were diamond.  People were using record changers and 
didn't want to mess around with changing steel needles all the time, so 
these styles became popular.  The problem with all of these needles in that 
time period is that the pickups tracked at too high a force for any of them 
to be optimal with regard to record wear.  The magnetic and crystal pickups 
of that period typically tracked at between 30 and 80 grams.  Although 
that's less than the 80 to 150 grams of the earlier acoustic reproducer 
period, it's still just too high for any of these hard needles.  They were 
especially deadly when used with the early vinyl 78s that were beginning to 
appear after WWII.  The proper technology for high tracking forces was the 
steel or tungsten wire needle when used with shellac records that contained 
abrasive fillers that were intended to quickly wear the needle into 
conformance with the groove shape.  But, of course, the steel needles needed 
to be changed with every record side or two.  Tungsten WIRE shaped needles 
are superior to the osmium tipped needles because the cylindrical wire shape 
retains the same cross-sectional area during the entire lifetime of the 
needle.  The osmium needles were tapered and as they wore they got a bigger 
cross section.  This is fine until the cross section gets too big to fit 
into the groove width which happens after just a few records are played. 
Then the needle forms shoulders that ride outside the groove and on the land 
of the record.  This lifts the needle out of close contact with the groove 
walls which leads to mistracking, distortion, and high record wear.  These 
hard needles, especially the sapphire and diamond ones don't wear down 
quickly, and instead wear the records.  These needles that were typical in 
this time period are the main reason that records that have survived from 
the '30s thru the '50s look worn and sound more distorted and worn than 
records that have survived from the teens and '20s and that were played 
properly with steel or tungsten wire needles.  The use of these hard needles 
only became proper when pickup tracking forces were reduced to 10 grams or 
less in the 1950s.  I don't feel comfortable using them even above about 5 
grams.  Tracking forces of 1 to 2 grams became commonplace in the early 
1960s, and jewel-tipped needles are perfectly satisfactory when used in 
these pickups.


   The bottom line is, I would NOT recommend using hard needles in any 
pickup tracking at more than 10 grams if you want to preserve your records. 
When new, these needles will sound good for a while.  But they will be 
grinding the bejeezus out of your records if you are tracking them at 30 
grams or more.  If you have a jukebox or record changer that operates at 
high tracking force, use tungsten wire needles.  Or change the pickup (and 
tonearm if necessary) to allow tracking forces below 10 grams if you want to 
use jewel-tipped needles.  Osmium would also work in this application, but 
it will wear out after 20 sides or so, even at this tracking force.  Osmium 
is just a bad idea for just about any application.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Chris Kocsis chris...@cox.net

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 8:47 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Coin machine or jukebox needles?


Can anyone give me the lowdown on jukebox needles?  I bought some new old 
stock Cole's coin machine needles with osmium tips.  The package says the 
needle lasts many plays and doesn't have to be rotated.  I'm also curious 
about the shape of the needle.  A couple of millimeters up from the point, 
the metal is flattened into a pointed oval like a cobra head and then 
resumes being cylindrical.  What is that for?


Osmium is nearly as hard as tungsten and I've seen some references to 
people cutting their own needles from tungsten wire and forming the point 
by rubbing the cut end in a record groove while rotating it (which seems 
astonishing).


Is such hardness a good idea in a needle, or does it cause excessive 
record wear?
If these jukebox needles are safe to use, how do I tell when it's time to 
change one?


Best regards,

Chris
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Re: [Phono-L] Vehicle?

2010-03-08 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The elephant in the room that NOBODY ever talks about with these hybrid 
cars is the cost to replace the battery pack.  Anybody who has ever owned a 
rechargeable anything knows that the battery is only good for about 3 years, 
advertising claims to the contrary.  The published cost of the battery pack 
for the Toyota Prius is about $3,000.  Anyone who has any thought of buying 
a used Prius had better be prepared to shuck out another 3 grand very 
quickly to actually keep the thing on the road.  And the estimated battery 
cost of the new Chebby Volt is about 8 GRAND!  No wonder the car is set to 
retail for 40 grand.  Until there is an economical way to lease or trade in 
these battery packs, the whole economical, money saving baloney about 
operating one of these cars is just a pipe dream.  It makes good advertising 
malarkey, but owners of these cars are in for a rude awakening sooner rather 
than later.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: john robles john9...@pacbell.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vehicle?


Are there charging stations for these types of cars? I don't know how long 
they take to charge, but I would imagine at some point there will need to be 
places where they can be charged publicly. 100 miles is not a lot of ground 
to cover when you are scouring the countryside for phonographs!

John

--- On Mon, 3/8/10, DanKj ediso...@verizon.net wrote:

From: DanKj ediso...@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vehicle?
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 10:57 AM

They say 100 miles under ideal conditions. That's more than I drive each 
week, so such a car would suit me - except that I have no driveway so no 
place to plug it in ! The 'LEAF doesn't look Victrola-sized, either



- Original Message - From: john robles john9...@pacbell.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vehicle?


I just saw a commercial last night for Nissan's new all-electric vehicle. I 
wonder how far you get on a charge..

John Robles


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Re: [Phono-L] Electrically Cut Edison DD's

2010-02-25 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The popular series of DDs above record number 52088 are electrically 
recorded.  This is why the 52000 series is so much in demand and commands 
much higher prices than the earlier record numbers.  Electrical recording 
was also done on some of the other series, starting with numbers 57025, 
59305, 60063, 80885, and 82351.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: harvey kravitz harveykrav...@yahoo.com

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:04 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Electrically Cut Edison DD's



Hi fellow collectors,
Does anyone know what series numbers Edison used for his electrically cut 
DD's? A good friend of mine bought an Edisonic Schubert  in Portland last 
week. If anyone has any electrically cut DD's for sale, let me know, and I 
will pass it on to him.

Harvey Kravitz




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Re: [Phono-L] Tungsten needle questions

2010-02-19 Thread Greg Bogantz

Hi Mark,

   I make my own tungsten needles.  Your observations are pretty much the 
same as my own.  The original Victor Tungstones were made from wire that 
measures about 0.0065 inch or 6.5 mils in diameter.  Today, that wire size 
is marketed as 7 mil.  Yes, I've made needles with this size wire and they 
work OK when used with acoustic reproducers tracking at around 140 grams 
such as the Victor orthophonic (#5) and the Columbia VivaTonal #15.  Even 
though the wire is really too large to accurately fit inside the groove, the 
extra width that forms shoulders on the edges of the wire gets ground down 
reliably due to the heavy tracking force.  But when used in lighter force 
reproducers such as the Victor Exhibition or #2, the tracking force is 
sufficiently lower (80 to 100 grams) that the needles tend to rattle and 
distort because the shoulders of the wire are not being ground off reliably. 
So, I tend to prefer the 6 mil wire (actually about 5.5 mil) as it fits 
the groove better and can be used with these lighter tracking force 
applications.  But you are correct in noting that the 6 mil is noticeably 
more inclined to bending than the 7 mil.  I'm sure that Victor used the 7 
mil wire because of this very need for robustness.  I've also tried 5 mil 
diameter (actually around 4.5 mil), but that is just too flimsy to be 
useable in anything tracking at more than about 40 grams or so.


   I don't know if the annealing process is the same as that used in the 
original Tungstones.  But I've obtained tungsten wire from several sources, 
including SmallParts, and it all behaves about the same way.  So I'm 
guessing that annealed wire is probably the only kind that is sold.


   As I commented on the Talking Machine Forum recently, HOW you cut the 
wire has a LOT to do with how long it lasts as a needle.  As the tungsten is 
hammered and drawn into the fine wire shape, it's structure becomes that of 
elongated crystalline threads.  If you cut the wire by nipping with 
conventional wire nippers (diagonal cutters), you smash the crystal threads 
at the cut which significantly reduces their strength.  The proper way to 
cut tungsten wire would be to grind it, then snap it.  That is very hard to 
do with wire this fine, but you can probably use a Dremel tool with a cutoff 
grinding disc.  The next best method is to SHEAR the wire.  This does not 
smash the crystal threads nearly as much as nipping the wire.  If you have 
experienced variable playback longevity with your needles, this may be the 
reason:  the wires with the frayed crystals will break and fray quickly 
which reduces the needle life.  The problem with shearing this wire is that 
you really need a shear made with VERY hard blades as you are cutting 
tungsten which is the hardest metallic element.  Using a shear with tungsten 
carbide blades would be the most practical solution.  Using an ordinary pair 
of shears with hardened steel blades works, but the blades will be nicked 
and banged up pretty quickly.  That's what I've been doing, but I'm aware 
that I'm abusing my shears.  Oh well, it's all for a good cause.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: mark french mf101...@msn.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 7:58 AM
Subject: [Phono-L] Tungsten needle questions




I was looking at a thread from last year that included talking about some 
collectors making
their own tungsten needles (Victor vs. Columbia big guns).  I've been 
making my own needles too for use in my Victrola 10-50, the big acoustic 
machine with the auto changer.


I wanted to bounce off what I'm using to everybody and see if I am ok with 
what I'm using...
maybe not ideal, but at the least, ok.  I'm using .006 wire from 
SmallParts.com, it comes in
straight 5-foot long pieces.  However, in the specs on the website, it 
says 'Temper -

Annealed'.

 There was a mention about annealed wire being too weak for use as needle 
tips.
 I have been using my needles for many months now, and as long as I make 
sure I don't
go overboard with the length of the tungsten tip, I am not having 
significant problems with
the wire tips being too weak.  Since they have thinner wire than the 
factory Tonofone
needles I have, which I measured at .007, I make sure that my .006 tips 
are somewhat
shorter than those.  There is also the factor that since I can make as 
many of these as I
want for only about 2 cents each, I can afford to make the tips as short 
as I want.
 I mean I don't need them to last 50-100 records like a Tungstone - just 
enough to be able

to play 2 or 3 or 4 12-record stacks.

Anyway - comments/suggestions?  Would annealed vs. not really make a 
significant difference
in strength in this application?  Smallparts was the only place I could 
find to buy a small
amount of this size wire.  I compromised with .006 wire, since .007 is 
too big and .005 was

the next size available and it just won't take the weight.

Thanks!
Mark French

Re: [Phono-L] Cleaning a phonograph. Wax removing.

2010-02-14 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I wish people would stop recommending WD-40 as an all-purpose lubricant. 
It is particularly UNSUITABLE for lubricating fine mechanisms with small 
parts.  It was originally designed as a  waterproofing agent, hence, it's 
name WD-40 refers to the fact that it is a water displacement product, 
this being the 40th attempt.  It was invented in 1953, before which time 
plenty of other products were found quite suitable for lubrication purposes. 
The long-term ingredient is a VISCOUS oil that is carried by a light, highly 
volatile mineral oil carrier, similar to kerosene.  The kerosene acts as a 
penetrating agent which serves to carry the heavy oil into cracks and 
crevices, the better to waterproof the treated object.  So, yes, the 
kerosene performs as a penetrating oil for about 5 minutes.  Then the 
kerosene evaporates, and you're left with the sticky oil worked into the 
cracks and crannies.  See the description and ingredients here:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

This description has fit my experience exactly.  After the carrier 
evaporates, you've got a sticky, tacky mess left on the object you're trying 
to lubricate.  Bad choice for small gears and pinions.  I find that WD-40 
is useful primarily for exactly what it was originally intended - 
waterproofing.  And it functions as a lubricant for heavier mechanisms, 
although a proper oil or grease is far preferable.


   If you want a penetrating oil, use pure kerosene.  I use an automotive 
product that consists of a very light volatile carrier with suspended tiny 
graphite particles called Part-Ease.  It's particularly good for stuck 
rusty parts.  Don't know if that brand is still available - the can I'm 
using is one I bought 30 years ago.  Works good on exhaust manifold bolts on 
cars and motorcycles.  If you want a proper lubricant for fine mechanisms 
like clocks and similar low-torque mechanisms, use a proper very light oil 
such as can be purchased from clock repair parts suppliers.  Proper light 
clock oil does not dry up or get tacky.  And it's available in various 
viscosities for light, medium, and moderately heavy torque applications. 
For most phonograph mechanisms, I find that ordinary 20 or 30 weight 
automotive motor oil works quite well.  For sliding surfaces such as the 
reproducer bearing bar surfaces on many Edison cylinder machines, I use a 
mixture of 30 weight oil and a PTFE (teflon) product such as Slick 50. 
The PTFE provides long lasting surface penetration into the metal for 
superior reduction of sliding friction and stiction.  Actually, I like this 
oil-PTFE mixture so well that I now use if for all my medium-duty 
lubrication needs.  For very heavy torque applications such as the main bull 
gears of phonographs, an ordinary automotive grease is appropriate.  I use a 
molybdenum-disulfide based grease (molly dum-dum for you motorcycle 
wrenches out there) for most applications.  It doesn't dry out, channel, and 
get stiff like many lithium based greases.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Curt Angstman vinyl.visi...@live.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Cleaning a phonograph. Wax removing.



Hi Gabriel,



For basic motor cleaning, remove the motor from the machine and find a 
container large enough to fit it in. Fill the container with kerosene and 
let it soak for several days. Use a toothbrush to remove sludge from gears 
and small parts. Kerosene will not harm your motor and will actually 
lubricate it. When you are through, you need to re-grease the spring, if 
possible. Grease will continue to leak from the motor for awhile, since the 
kerosene dissolves it, so you will want to put a rag under it after it is 
re-installed. I also use WD 40 and spray lithium grease to re-lube the 
motor. WD 40 also will remove crud from the wood cabinet or painted surfaces 
without harming the finish - I use it on my BMW to remove tar, etc. It's a 
great product and has many uses, like removing sticker glue, tar and grease. 
It is also wonderful for re-energizing the paint on a horn. On black horns, 
I touch up scratches with a Sharpie marker and/or liquid gun bluing (gun 
bluing works great to age metal parts) and then clean the horn with WD 40. 
On painted or flowered horns, it cleans and deepens the colors. Neither 
kerosene or WD 40 will harm painted or nickel finished parts. WD 40 also 
restores and cleans 78 records and Amberol cylinders. Some people will 
disagree with that, but take a dirty, scratchy 78 record and try it - it 
will improve the sound and make it look better - and absolutely NO damage to 
the record - spray it on and wipe it off. I have used this method for over 
30 years and have never had any damage to my records. It will not dissolve 
78 rpm records or celluloid, but DO NOT use it on wax cylinders!!!




I can't help with the parts, but what do you mean by click-fitting system. 
Are you talking about the latches

[Phono-L] Allen Hough

2010-01-19 Thread Greg Bogantz
  As some of you may know, Allen Hough made a peculiar record changer that was 
used on only a few radio/phonos in the late 1920s, the Columbia 990 and the 
Zenith 75 being the only two that I know about.  Here's a strange electric 
portable acoustic machine made by them: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Allen-Hough-Turntable-Record-Player-Phonograph_W0QQitemZ320475016810QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item4a9dccae6a

Note the busted casting which reveals what appears to be a multi-pole induction 
motor rotor.  Note the escutcheon around the spindle hole in the platter says 
Allen Hough Rotor Corp. in Milwaukee.  Wonder what a rotor corporation was? 
 Maybe they specialized in gear hobbing or making multi-pole induction motors.  
Anybody know more about this company?

Greg Bogantz
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Re: [Phono-L] Allen Hough

2010-01-19 Thread Greg Bogantz
Thanks for that link, Allen.  That is, indeed, the Allen Hough record 
changer that was used in the Columbia VivaTonal 990 and Zenith model 75.  I 
had not known about this Carryola jukebox before.  The Columbia and Zenith 
models are quite rare - the Carryola juke must be even more so.  Several 
bidders must have thought it pretty special to jack the sale price up so 
high.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: allena...@aol.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Allen Hough




In a message dated 1/19/2010 5:31:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
gbogan...@charter.net writes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Allen-Hough-Turntable-Record-Player-Phonograph_W
0QQitemZ320475016810QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item4a9dc
cae6a


-
See this for comparison:
_RARE  CARRYOLA CABARET COUNTERTOP COIN OP JUKE BOX for sale_
(http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/store/RARE-CARRYOLA-CABARET-COUNTERTOP-COIN-OP-JUKE-BOX_
200394548733.html)

Allen
 _www.phonobooks.com_ (http://www.phonobooks.com)

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Re: [Phono-L] Columbia Grafonola Electiric motor shutoff question

2009-12-21 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I'm not familiar with this type of Columbia electric motor, but it 
sounds like it may be a variant that includes the Columbia non-set 
auto-stop mechanism that was used on the more expensive spring motor 
models.  I have a Columbia electric motor model, but the switch mechanism is 
simple and is merely coupled to the tonearm by a lever.  Some of our readers 
have probably worked on the non-set auto-stop spring motors and can perhaps 
help you to figure out how it works.  It's a clever design and somewhat 
complicated.  I don't know if there is any documentation available on how to 
service these, but it would be a valuable addition to the phono literature.


Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Daniel Melvin d...@old-phonographs.com

To: Phono-L@oldcrank.org phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: [Phono-L] Columbia Grafonola Electiric motor shutoff question



Does anyone have any information on the rather complicated
geared switch mechinism on an electric Columbia motor? I have a machine
where that mechinism seems to have frozen up which was keeping the motor
from running. I took it apart and stared at it quite a lot and cannot even
figure out how it works. It has a bunch of gears and a cam that turns the
motor off and on.

To get the machine working I disconnected the gear attached to the tonearm
and rigged a manual switch for the motor. It works great, but I would 
really

like to restore the original switch mechinism if anyone has suggestions or
information on it. I have all the original parts, but the switch lost me 
in

the dust.

And, I thought Edison made complicated machines! This switch is amazing.

Thanks

Dan
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Re: [Phono-L] What did I buy? Ebay item 220523099867

2009-12-16 Thread Greg Bogantz
   The motor is a modern electric type - you can see the rubber idler 
wheel, and the platter is a modern type, probably matching the motor 
assembly.  The cabinet looks homemade.  It appears that the only collectible 
part on it is the ID tag.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: bruce78...@comcast.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] What did I buy? Ebay item 220523099867


Sorry, I came in late on this. Someone obviously attached the ID plate for 
an Orthophonic table model to another Victor. But which Victor did they 
attach it to ? and what was that crazy little turntable from ?
- Original Message - 
From: Barry Kasindorf barry.kasind...@gmail.com

To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 11:29:51 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada 
Eastern

Subject: Re: [Phono-L] What did I buy? Ebay item 220523099867

I think that many Ebay sellers claim ignorance about what the phono they
are selling really is when they know full well it is junk.
If this was a real onsite auction or estate sale you could more closely
examine a piece, get a better feel for it and make a decision. No matter
how many pictures you have on Ebay you really don't have the same
feeling for an item as you do in person.
Saying buyer beware is simplistic in this situation. You still need some
sense of honesty and cooperation from the seller if there was a
misunderstanding of what the item is instead of the usual glee taken
when a novice collector or even a older collector in a hurry
misunderstands what is for sale and gets taken.
-Barry


On 12/15/2009 11:26 PM, brice paris wrote:
I am a little shocked here. Not sure who is being taken, item does not 
seem to be misrepresented and the pictures are clear. A bidder has a 
responsibility to follow through on their contract win or lose. What am I 
missing???






From: William Buchananret.army...@yahoo.com
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Mon, December 14, 2009 6:20:44 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] What did I buy? Ebay item 220523099867

Friends,

It's a hard thing to admit that you've been taken, but the good thing is 
that it was not for much and I have not paid him yet. But if this is at 
least a real Victrola I will have no problems paying him.


Can somebody tell me what I purchased?

Ebay item 220523099867

They said it is a Victrola VV I-90 but it's not so what is this?

Thank you Bill




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Re: [Phono-L] Type of Finish on Victor VV-100

2009-09-25 Thread Greg Bogantz
   I think that is probably what was known as Flemish oak.  Very, very 
dark, almost black with a semi-gloss finish.  I have an Edison C-250 in 
flemish oak which is a very rare finish for a DD machine.  I've seen only 
one other example.  It's the only Edison finish that looks remotely this 
dark.  The other possibilities shown in Baumbach's latest LFTD book might be 
gunmetal (perhaps a bit greenish or bluish) or driftwood, but I think 
those finishes were both less glossy than what's seen in this video.  Or 
perhaps it is Early English as the owner speculates in the video.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: bruce78...@comcast.net

To: MOCAPS mocap...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Phono-L Phono-L@oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 9:23 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Type of Finish on Victor VV-100



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8cj7MOCdpk


I am looking to try an pin down what type of Victor Finish this might be, 
but it is hard to determine from the small samples that are shown in 
Victor Data Book.


Anyone care to offer an opinion.

Thanks,

Bruce
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Re: [Phono-L] Capehart

2009-07-14 Thread Greg Bogantz
   Walt, the tracking force used in the early Capehart 16-E changer which 
used the fan head black pickup was very nearly the same as that of the 
other early horseshoe-magnet magnetic pickups.  They track at 120 - 150 
grams or so, making the tungsten wire needles the only good choice for 
multiple-play use.  That would include the changers thru about the E or 
F-line Capeharts (ca. 1938 and earlier).  The G-line series was about when 
the later, smaller brown pickup heads came into use on the Capeharts.  The 
early versions of these were also magnetic and tracked at around 100 grams 
or so.  The later versions of the 16-E changer with the similar-looking 
brown pickup head were fitted with the early Astatic crystal cartridges 
which tracked at 40 - 50 grams.  Still, this is too high a force to use with 
a hard jewel-point needle, even though this was common practice at the time. 
As you say and as I say in my other post on this subject, jewel-point 
needles were really never the correct choice for these cartridges that 
tracked at anything much over 12 grams or so.


   You record collectors might have noticed that the records you get from 
the mid to late 1930s tend to be more worn, distorted, and noisy than the 
records from the 1920s and earlier.  This is because the record players made 
from the mid '30s to the early postwar period often used jewelled needles in 
these crystal cartridges that tracked at 30 grams or more.  The advertising 
of the day called this featherweight tracking at only one ounce!  That's a 
pretty heavy feather.  But they ground up the records mercilessly. 
Unfortunately, this situation continued until the advent of the GE variable 
reluctance (VR) magnetic cartridge that tracked at around 10 - 12 grams and 
which came into common use with the Capehart 41-E changer and other top-end 
record players after WWII.  Even after the war, most cheap record players 
continued to use crystal cartridges tracking at 30 grams or so until 
microgroove vinyl records came into use after 1948.  This brought the need 
and application of much better cartridges that could track at 8 grams or 
less.


Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Walt Sommers waltsomm...@comcast.net

To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Capehart



Bob,

Do you know the approximate tracking mass of the Capehart pick up? I am 
guess it is probably 25 to 40 grams? The RCA Chromium needles would be a 
concern on the 10-50 or other Victor automatics that use the #5 acoustic 
Orthophonic reproducer (tracking at a whopping 130 grams or so) but 
assuming that the Capehart's pickup is something like 25 to 40 grams I 
can't imagine the RCA Chromium needles would be an issue. I recall reading 
an RCA patent (which I can't specifically call to mind right now) 
concerning the use of chromium on the needles which briefly discussed the 
issue of the relatively low mass of electrical pickups versus the higher 
mass of the acoustic reproducers.


The Victor Soft or Full Tungs~Tone stylus would be ideal for the Capehart 
as well as most of the early electrical pickups. I can't say I would 
recommend the Extra Loud Tungs~Tone stylus simply because they are quite 
aggressive. Others swear by them. Whatever you choose, I would stay as far 
away from jeweled styli (sapphires, diamonds, etc.) as possible. Sapphires 
and diamonds would be great if only the designs of the early pickups were 
better.


I have a feeling I am in Dr. Bogantz's area of expertise here...Perhaps he 
will jump in.


Walt

RBaumbach wrote:
Tungstone needles are probably the best choice for either the 10-50 or 
the Capehart, and were recommended by both manufacturers.  In the 
mid-thirties Capehart recommended the RCA Chromium needles, but some 
collectors feel that these are hard on records.  Both the Tungstone and 
Chromium needles are still rather plentiful.  There is a more 
comprehensive discussion of needles on the bonus page for the Capehart 
book (see page 5).


Contact me privately regarding the owner's manual and schematics.

Bob


On TuesdayJuly 14, 2009, at 10:11 AM, jim...@earthlink.net wrote:

After many years, my 1937 Capehart 404G (serial number 10627E) is now 
functioning  sounds great  is fun to watch as it changes
records.   I have noticed quite a bit of needle noise in the magnetic 
pickup when the volume is turned down even though the pickup
has been restored.   Is this endemic to a properly performing Capehart 
as I suspect because all the doors to the record playing
compartment are sealed with rubber gaskets, presumable to contain 
mechanical noise or does the pickup need further work?   Also,
where can one obtain needles for playing large numbers of 78s without 
being changed in the Capehart or Orthophonic Victrola 1050?
I have Mr. Baumbach's excellent book on the Capeharts without which the 
repairman who usually works on 1950s  1960s hifi gear
would have been

[Phono-L] wire wound link cord -DD reproducers

2009-04-04 Thread Greg Bogantz
The Edisonic reproducer was a later refinement of the Dance reproducer. 
You can read the patent disclosure for the Dance in US patent #1,711,265 
which details the claims for the additional weight and the springs that were 
added.  Much of this description is technological baloney, but it served to 
get Edison yet another patent.  The claim made for wrapping the link between 
the stylus bar and the diaphragm was that this damped the spurious 
vibrations and resonances in the link.  It probably did that, but it also 
added more moving mass to the system which served to lower the overall 
resonance.  I have found that none of the additional dampers and springs 
serve any real, useful purpose.  When I change the diaphragm in a Dance or 
Edisonic, I use one of my standard DD diaphragms with the same link and 
remove the additional springs.  The performance is better than what you get 
in a standard DD reproducer because of the additional tracking force created 
by the bigger weight.  The additional weight adds more mass to the stylus 
bar fulcrum so that bass performance is also improved by lowering the 
weight/fulcrum resonant frequency.  That's all there really is to it.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L'Herault lhera...@bu.edu
To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org; 
phonol...@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:43 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] wire wound link cord -DD reproducers


 The Edisonic reproducers that I have seen have fine wire wound along the
 length of the cord linking diaphragm to needle bar.  Why?  Was it to make
 the cord stronger?  Was it for some sonic reason or for another reason I
 have not though of?

 Ron L

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[Phono-L] Edsion 30 Echos - What To Do?

2009-03-19 Thread Greg Bogantz
Hi Brantley,

Echo when playing Edison records (DDs or cylinders) is usually a sign of 
a worn stylus.  It could also be caused by the hinge block not moving 
freely.  You should check your stylus under a fairly powerful microscope and 
look for the formation of shoulders on either side of the center of the tip. 
These are signs of excessive wear and you should replace the stylus.  Check 
the hinge or pivot at the back of the reproducer that allows the weight to 
move sideways within the limits of the limit loop at the front.  This pivot 
should move freely.  Clean it and lubricate it if it feels sticky or tight.

Greg Bogantz

- Original Message - 
From: kugl...@wmconnect.com
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 9:17 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Edsion 30 Echos - What To Do?


 Hi.  I just purchased an Edison 30 machine.  Many of the 4 minute 
 cylinders
 echo when playing.  I can take these same cylinders and play them on my 
 Edison
 75 and they play perfect.  There are some cylinders to do play fine on the 
 30
 machine, but about 70% of them echo.  It is really noticeable with a Cal
 Stewart or vocal record.  Is there anything that I can do to adjust the 
 reproducer?
 Any assistance with this annoying problem would be much appreciated. 
 Thanks.

 Brantley
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[Phono-L] Opera like Phonograph?

2009-03-02 Thread Greg Bogantz
Yes, it appears that the 1A motor will fit into the Opera or 1B or III 
cabinet.  The 1A motor deck is about 1/2 inch longer and about 1/8 inch 
deeper, but the three mounting points seems to be in the proper location for 
either to mount in the same cabinets.  I don't know about the Opera cabinet, 
but the console cabinets have spaces large enough around the motor deck to 
allow either motor to fit.  And the crank locations also seem to be about 
the same.  To exchange a 1A for an Opera, you would also have to exchange 
the horn connector stanchion to change from an inside to outside horn 
configuration.

The late production of M and O reproducers were made with the trowel 
shaped weights.  I think the factory actually re-worked some of the round 
weights into the trowel shape.  I am working on an M now that clearly has 
had the weight cut down - the nickel plating is missing from the cut edges.

Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: Albert cen...@comcast.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Opera like Phonograph?


I am curious about the Almost Opera that just appeared on Ebay.  Will an 
Amberola 1-a mech. fit that well in an opera case?  of course the serial 
plate is gone, but the bedplate color is opera correct, my 1-A is much 
darker.  Also I have never seen a model M reproducer that has been shaved 
like a trowel, any comments?  AL Menashe
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[Phono-L] [Fwd: [CBI] Wet 78s and broadcast equipment - needrestoration help]

2008-12-22 Thread Greg Bogantz
Well, assuming that the 78s weren't exposed to heat from the steam pipe 
break and that they have only a water soaking, there's probably nothing 
wrong with them except for some potential label damage.  Check for obvious 
warpage or cracking and dispose of those records.  The ones that appear 
undamaged otherwise should be removed from any damaged paper sleeves and 
rewashed as quickly as possible to remove any wet paper residue while 
protecting their labels from the washing.  Shellac records (or vinyl or 
styrene 45s) are not damaged by washing in water.  They should then be 
thoroughly rinsed with distilled water, dried, and returned to new record 
sleeves.

The analog audio equipment is another story.  About the only thing to do 
is to dry it out COMPLETELY, then check each piece carefully for any signs 
of water damage.  Older equipment that does not contain circuit boards may 
well survive with little more than a good drying out, then maybe a brushing 
out of any foreign residue from the chassis.  Circuit boards need to be 
checked for evidence of water stains that can cause short circuits.  These 
stains can often be cleaned off with alcohol and a stiff brush.  Some of the 
capacitors might need to be replaced, but that needs to be determined on an 
individual basis.  Mechanical equipment such as turntables and tape decks 
will need to have their mechanics cleaned and relubricated.  But most of 
this equipment is probably recoverable if there is interest in doing it.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Thatcher Graham thatc...@mediaguide.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 12:58 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] [Fwd: [CBI] Wet 78s and broadcast equipment - 
needrestoration help]


A heartbreaking story of damaged 78s in Atlanta.
 If any of you have experience in this matter please let me know.



  Original Message 
 Subject: [CBI] Wet 78s and broadcast equipment - need restoration help
 Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 12:21:38 -0500
 From: Thomas Shanks tsha...@gatech.edu
 Reply-To: College Broadcasters, Inc c...@listserv.syr.edu
 To: c...@listserv.syr.edu



 From The Collegiate Broadcasters, Inc. (CBI) Listserv

 Our radio station's storage area was steamed in a sauna from a broken 
 steam pipe for probably 7 days before we were informed last week.  We have 
 a full complement of high-quality used analog studio equipment (an entire 
 disassembled old studio) and a few hundred 78s that were too wet to handle 
 until today as the room was dried with a dehumidifier.  They are still 
 damp, so it's time to do what we need to do to save what can be saved.

 What should we do to save the 78s?

 What should we do to save the reel tape?

 And the audio equipment?

 Thank you for any help you can give,

 Thomas Shanks
 Chief Engineer
 WREK Georgia Tech Student Radio


 -- 
 Thatcher Graham
 Senior Field Engineer
 Mediaguide
 640 Freedom Business Ctr. STE 305
 King of Prussia, PA 19406


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[Phono-L] *** JUNK MAIL ***Bargain Victor 10-35 cabinet

2008-12-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
I just stumbled onto this:


http://cgi.ebay.com/Beautiful-wood-turntable_W0QQitemZ170285399152QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item170285399152_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I'm pretty sure this is a Victor 10-35 cabinet. The seller doesn't say much 
about it, and there isn't much time to ask questions as the sale closes in 6 
hours. There may be nothing inside it, but who knows. If anybody needs what 
looks like a fairly nice cabinet for a 10-35, you might at least get that for a 
song. 

Greg Bogantz
From lhera...@verizon.net  Sun Dec 14 20:54:29 2008
From: lhera...@verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sun Dec 14 21:55:00 2008
Subject: [Phono-L] Amberola VIII and cyl cabinet questions
Message-ID: 2d412324c41e4e55a9d6e487b733c...@ronlherault

I have recently acquired an Amberola VIII that I think someone modified to
run on an electric motor once.  The electric motor was already gone though
as was most of the original spring motor.  Sooo, the questions are:

1. What is the original size (OD and diameter at the belt groove bottom) of
the pulley on the spring motor.

2. Is this pulley very heavy for its size.

3. Should it have a cork lining to the pulley groove?

4. There is an oblong hole in the back plate to the right of the cut out for
the horn neck.  I suspect the on/off electrical switch was there but I am
not sure.  Has anyone seen a hole like this in their VIII?

And on a separate note,
I've been given a cylinder cabinet, a rather simple design with flat board
shelves that have grooves in them into which one glues cardboard pegs.
Toilet paper and paper towel inner cardboard tubes are the right size, by
the way.

The hooks that keep the shelves from pulling all the way out are missing.
Anyone have a source for replacement hooks.  They are a rather critical
component.

Thanks,

Ron L


[Phono-L] Player for 78 rpm records

2008-11-09 Thread Greg Bogantz
The best deal on the best-sounding record players these days is to get one 
of the commercial or institutional models that used to be made for 
schools and churches.  The best of these brands is Newcomb which has the 
best build quality, but similar models were made by Audiotronics, Califone, 
and Hamilton.  These models are usually 4-speed manual players with turnover 
cartridges that have the 3 mil stylus for 78s and a 1 mil or .7 mil for 45s 
and LPs.  Some of the models also have speed vernier controls.  They also 
have considerable electronic equalization that makes them much better 
sounding than the common consumer players.  Here's a good example of an 
Audiotronics:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOTRONICS-338V-VARIABLE-SPEED-RECORD-PLAYER-WORKS-A_W0QQitemZ220302074193QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item220302074193_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Here's one of the smaller Newcombs:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-NEWCOMB-SOLID-STATE-RECORD-PLAYER-MODEL-EDT-20V_W0QQitemZ260312311494QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item260312311494_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

These players are robust, highly portable, and easy to repair.  And you can 
often get them for $50 or less on eBay.

Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: buck Buchanan ret.army...@yahoo.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:16 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Player for 78 rpm records


I need some help in finding a cheap record player that will play the 78 
rpm records.
 I have an Emerson and I have also looked at the Crosley and both of them 
 just don't cut it.
 They use the same needle for the 78's and for the 33's and the 78's sound 
 awful and it not because they are dirty because I have cleaned the 
 records.
 My biggest problem is that I am a disabled vet trying to live on $1,000 a 
 month.
 so I don't have much to pull from in the way of money. I know my in laws 
 want to buy me something but I can't ask them to spend hundreds of dollars 
 on this. does anybody know of a cheap player on the market that sounds 
 good! And where can I find it.
 Thanks Bill





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[Phono-L] Lateral Vs Vertical.

2008-11-03 Thread Greg Bogantz
The problem with the Pathe Diffusor as well as with the Pathe Actuelle 
is the absence of proper baffling around the reproducer cone or diaphragm. 
The benefits of the fairly direct connection of the stylus to the diaphragm 
are unfortunately swamped by the poor bass response of both of these 
systems.  The Actuelle also suffers from the extraordinarily long linkage 
from stylus to reproducer cone.  This also causes a rolloff of the treble 
frequencies due to the high moving mass of this stylus bar connection. 
Putting a baffle (to keep the front sound emissions from cancelling with 
those from the back) around the Diffusor diaphragm or Actuelle cone would 
greatly enhance the bass performance, but it would make the phono quite 
large and ungainly.  This is part of the theory of horn reproduction - the 
emission from one side of the diaphragm is GREATLY enhanced with respect to 
the emission from the other side and there is little opportunity for 
cancellation.  And with typical cone loudspeaker reproduction, a baffle (the 
cabinet or box) helps keep the back emission separate from the front to 
reduce cancellations.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Robert Wright esrobe...@hotmail.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Lateral Vs Vertical.


Jim, Greg, Steve, and Thomas :-),

Thanks very much for all the insight.  I hadn't considered the possibility
that vertical was inferior, but vertical companies worked that much harder
for better sound; I assumed all other things were probably even.  I do find
it strange that so many vertical recordings by so many companies had
superior sound to so many laterals, including as pointed out below,
individual labels who issued records cut both ways.

Anyone have any impressions of the Path? Diffusor?  I would think that being
a large diaphragm with a jewel tip sitting directly on the recorded groove,
it would be the most direct playback mechanism of any that have existed.
Right?  No pivot point to worry about, just the simplest physics around --
true analog, as it were, the only example of it since Edison's original
prototype, yes?  Has anyone thought to try improving upon that particular
playback methodology?

Thanks again, all.  I'm storing these in a special folder to revisit from
time to time.

Best to all,
Robert




- Original Message - 
From: Thomas Edison edisonphonowo...@hotmail.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 4:10 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Lateral Vs Vertical.


 Hello everyone. Thinking of the L and V issue, I have a very simple
 response from cutting records.  I had recorded Laquers with the Fairchild
 lathe , in order to record high frequencies, I had to boost them to a
 dangerous level almost burning the coil up.  When you record you boost
 highs and limit the lows, and the opposite when you play them back.  I
 used the same head to record hill and dale cylinder records on Edison
 blanks, and could record the cylinders almost flat, and the lows and highs
 sounded very similar to the original recording, and the highs did not have
 to be boosted to the dangerous levels of the lateral disc of which the
 head was designed to cut, so it certainly seems that it is harder to
 record highs on lateral recordings than vertical. Some of you on the list
 have some of these electrically recorded cylinders in your collections
 with modern music on them, you can state the same I am sure.  When it
 comes to bass however, vertical records are much harder as li
 fts occur, but you can increase the ambient wax temperature and record
 deeper grooves, and record more bass  The lowest bass note I had recorded
 on cylinders was 16 cps, however this was a test tone, with no other
 frequencies added, it was very difficult to do but can be done.  Lateral
 records record bass with relative ease, however  if the volume is to high
 the grooves run into eachother and must be spaced apart more. (Most modern
 recording lathes do this automatically.) If you listen to companies that
 recorded lateral and vertical records you can hear much clearer records,
 with vertical recordings time and time again.  Pathe',  Gennette ect.
 _
 Want to read Hotmail messages in Outlook? The Wordsmiths show you how.
 http://windowslive.com/connect/post/wedowindowslive.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!20EE04FBC541789!167.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_092008
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[Phono-L] Vertical versus lateral records

2008-11-02 Thread Greg Bogantz
Bob, your earlier assumption of the vertical-lateral stereo record was 
correct with regard to some of the early stereo proposals.  But that system 
would not have been compatible with playback of a stereo record on an older 
mono lateral cartridge.  This was one requirement of any stereo record 
system that would get the blessing of the record companies.  Thus, the 45-45 
system was developed that does as you say - one channel is a combination of 
vertical and lateral motion of one groove wall and the other channel is the 
same on the opposite groove wall.  To be compatible with mono lateral pickup 
cartridges, this requires that the SUM or in-phase conponents of the two 
stereo channels to be represented as the lateral components of both channels 
which will then cause pure lateral motion of the pickup stylus and which 
will present the stereo recording as fully folded down into mono and be 
playable on a lateral pickup.  The DIFFERENCE between the left and right 
channels is represented purely as the total vertical component of stylus 
motion.  This signal is not pertinent when hearing the stereo program folded 
down to mono, and this vertical signal is not detected by a lateral pickup.

You ask how it's possible to separate the two channels in one groove in 
this manner.  The answer is that each signal generator in the pickup 
cartridge is responsive to only ONE axis of modulation.  So if you cause 
modulation on the axis which is purely perpendicular or orthogonal to the 
sensitivity axis, there is no component of the signal along the sensitivity 
axis and the signal generator does not respond to that modulation.
By placing two such signal generators in the stereo pickup cartridge, each 
responsive to the 45 degree angle from the vertical as represented by one 
groove wall, note that
one groove wall is 90 degrees differently inclined from the other - in other 
words, the groove is cut with a 90 degree angle between the sidewalls. 
Unlike the case with pure vertical or lateral cut mono records, this 90 
degree angle of the groove is a REQUIREMENT of the 45-45 stereo groove. 
This allows the wiggles from one groove wall to move the stylus in a 
completely orthogonal motion relative to the modulation from the other 
groove wall.  Thus, each signal generator is responsive ONLY to the 
modulation from the groove wall which causes stylus motion along its 
sensitivity axis, and that generator does not respond to stylus motion 
caused by the other groove wall whose axis of stylus motion is orthogonal to 
its sensitivity axis.  This allows the two channels to exist in one groove, 
and the crosstalk between channels is theoretically zero.

In practice, real world stereo pickup cartridges do not achieve perfect 
separation but they do a pretty good job, typically achieving from 20 to 40 
dB of separation between channels over the entire audio frequency range. 
Separation above about 20dB when auditioned via loudspeakers is essentially 
indistinguishable from perfect separation by listeners.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Bob rvu...@comcast.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vertical versus lateral records


 Hi Greg,
This is all very informative.  I always assumed that in a stereo
 recording, one channel responded to the vertical motion of the stylus and
 the other to the lateral motion.  If I understand you correctly, this is 
 not
 correct.  One channel responds to both by both the lateral and vertical
 movement on one side of the groove and the other channel to the lateral 
 and
 vertical movement of the other side of the groove.  What I don't 
 understand
 is how this is possible.  It would seem that the motion in either 
 direction
 on one side would affect the motion of the other side because the stylus
 can't be in two lateral or vertical positions at the same time. I hope you
 understand what I mean and can provide an explanation as to how this 
 works.
 Thanks
 Robert Vuillemenot
 - Original Message - 
 From: Greg Bogantz gbogantz1 at charter.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 9:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vertical versus lateral records


Well, Robert, with some trepidation do I want to open this can of 
 worms
 again.  I was involved in some knock-down-drag-out arguments on two other
 phonograph forums over this topic in the past.  It seems there are some
 die-hards in both the Edison and Victor camps who want to retain their
 predjudices regardless of knowing the facts.  But in the interest of
 showing
 some scientific light on this question, I'll try to cite the most
 important
 aspects of the physics governing the analog recording and reproduction
 process.

First of all, you should dismiss nearly everything that Read and Welch
 say in their book From Tinfoil to Stereo.  The authors have a very
 Edison

[Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)

2008-11-02 Thread Greg Bogantz
Jim, I just talked with my friend who designed the Ediphonic and he said 
I could post some pictures of the horn and the complete machine.  I'll try 
to get that done here shortly.  I think I convinced him to join Phono-L, so 
you might see him contributing to our discussions here later.

Regarding the use of a round link fastener on my diaphragms:  I've tried 
several ways to make these, but the issue always comes down to keeping the 
moving mass as low as possible.  The little piece of wire that I use is the 
simplest means of attaching the link and it sounds no different from the 
disc-shaped means that I tried.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: jim...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)


 Dear Mr. Bogantz:
 Your friend's experimental exponential Amberola horn sounds fascinating -
 wish I could hear it.
 I tried playing diamond discs through one of my Orthophonic Credenzas 
 using
 the Bruswick Ultona arm and soundbox  this was quite an improvement
 over the diamond disc machines - am sure it would have been much better if
 it had been possible to use an Edison reproducer.
 Obviously the great weakness of Edison phonographs (aside from vertical 
 cut
 recording), both cylinder  disc, is that they, unlike their lateral-cut
 competitors' acoustic machines, did not employ tone arms that by their 
 very
 existance elogated the narrower portion of the tone passage, more closely
 approximating exponetial shape.   One would have thought that mathmatician
 Theodore Edison would have exponentially elongated the narrow portion
 of the horn in the Edisonic.
 Wish your friend would market an aftermarket exponetial horn for both
 Amberola  Diamond Disc phonographs.Let me know if he does.
 I bought one of your diamond disc diaphragms several years ago  thought 
 it
 might be improved by having the link attached to the diaphragm by
 a round something against the diaphragm rather than the little straight
 bar.Have you by any chance incorporated this improvement?
 Am always interested in obtaining the best sound quality from my vintage
 machines.
 All good wishes...


 Very truly yours,


 Jim Cartwright


 Immortal Performances

 jimcip at earthlink.net
 EarthLink Revolves Around You.

 ...
 [Original Message]
 From: Greg Bogantz gbogantz1 at charter.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Date: 28-Oct-2008 5:48:38 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)

 Bruce, the only reason that I discount the 1A from being the best
 cylinder player is because of its inferior motor.  The straight-cut spur
 gears of the 1A are decidedly noisier than the Opera motor of the 1B and
 the
 III.  When I first got my 1A, it sounded like and electric drill whenever
 I
 ran it.  The noise comes mostly from the high speed governor gears, and
 the
 only fix for it is to replace these gears with nearly perfect new ones.
 Try
 to find those anywhere!  I got lucky and swapped a fellow collector some
 items for a set of nearly new gears which quieted my 1A down to the point
 where it is enjoyable, but still not as quiet as my 1B.  The other big
 problem with the 1A is that it doesn't have the mechanical flutter filter
 and flywheel that Edison added to some of his later motors such as the
 Opera, Amberola V, and all the late amberolas.  The lack of a sufficient
 flywheel coupled with the belt drive of the 1A virtually ensures that
 you'll
 get flutter and wow that is just an essential aspect of this design.
 Acoustically, the 1A is the same as the 1B, but the motor spoils the
 total
 experience a little.

 However, since the 1A motor is no worse than any found on any other 2
 minute cylinder machine, the superior horn of the 1A makes it the best
 overall 2 minute machine in my estimation.  AND it has the added benefit
 that you can play 2 minute celluloid records with the Diamond A
 reproducer
 which is truly the best 2 minute experience that you can get in a
 commercially made machine.  I like my 1A just fine, but I prefer to hear
 4
 minute celluloids on my 1B or my III.

 I don't include the Opera among the very best sounding machines
 because
 I haven't heard ANY commercially made outside horns on cylinder machines
 that are the sonic equal to the horns in the Amberola 1s and III.  I
 mentioned on the OTV board that I have a mechanical engineer friend who
 decided to make his own large genuine cygnet shaped exponential outside
 horn.  He has fitted it to an Amberola 50 motor which he has put into a
 custom tabletop cabinet.  The horn is suspended over the carriage by a
 clever, original design double crane pantographic system that works much
 better than any original design.  He calls his machine the Ediphonic
 and
 has even put an Edison-style logo on it with that name.  The reproducer
 is a
 modified

[Phono-L] Vertical versus lateral records

2008-11-01 Thread Greg Bogantz
 matched the nature of the 
music and the talent, that is different recorders were used for selections 
featuring a solo vocalist than were used for band recordings or were used 
for massed voices, etc.  Victor and Columbia probably weren't as careful in 
the early days about these details of their acoustic recording setups.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Robert Wright esrobe...@hotmail.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)


 With all due respect, how is vertical cut recording inferior to lateral 
 cut?
 Certainly in the phonograph's first 25 years, Edison's machines sounded
 substantially better than respectively contemporary lateral phonographs. 
 I
 hear more treble extension on direct-recorded 4M amberols than any 
 acoustic
 lateral recordings, as well as more general naturalness.  I must
 respectfully disagree that vertical recording can be regarded as 
 inherently
 inferior to lateral recording, generally speaking.

 I should perhaps mention that I have no allegiance to one method over the
 other whatsoever.  Greg B., may I ask your thoughts on this?  Any
 information about specific frequency responses, and especially, the 
 physics
 involved with both the recording and playback (and duplication if you care
 to get that deep) processes, would be fascinating and greatly appreciated!


 Best to all,
 Robert


 - Original Message - 
 From: jimcip at earthlink.net
 snip
 Obviously the great weakness of Edison phonographs (aside from vertical
 cut
 recording)...

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[Phono-L] Amberolas 1A and 1B horns

2008-10-31 Thread Greg Bogantz
Steve, it's not readily possible to compare the 1A and 1B horns with any 
others because of the unique fittings that they employ on the machines. 
Even so, there was no other horn shaped like the 1A  1B horns which 
probably has the MOST to do with their sound.  In other words, you would 
have to make a wood horn with the same unique shape as the 1A horn to 
properly compare the effects attributable to the construction materials. 
But I would imagine that the two materials would sound rather similar since 
wood is a more intrinsically damped material than metal and is similar in 
damping to the jute construction of the 1A horn.
Also, a solid wood horn would have different damping from that of a plywood 
construction.  But overall, I would agree that I like the metal horns the 
least of all the constructions because of their poor damping.  This could be 
improved by overlaying the outside of the horn with some plaster or other 
material which would add mass and damp the metallic ringing.  I have heard 
of people actually doing this with a Credenza.  Even though these are wood 
horns which are already pretty well damped, some people believe that filling 
the volume between the horn and the cabinet sides with CONCRETE !!!  makes 
them sound better.  Good grief, the beast weighs enough as it is.  Who needs 
to add another several hundred pounds of stone just to damp the wood horn a 
little better?  Oh well, ya pays yer money and ya takes yer cherce.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Amberolas 1A and 1B horns


 Hi Greg,

 Do they sound better than wood?  I am very impressed by how much better 
 wood sounds than tin, what a huge difference.  I always sound test 
 reproducers with my tin horn as all the defects are pronounced.  Wood 
 makes them sound better even when they are not.

 Steve



 Steve, the 1A and 1B horns are very odd. They're made of a fibrous  
 material, molded or layed up against a form. Different from anything else 
   that Edison ever did. Someone on one of these phono boards had the 
 answer  in a previous posting, but I can't remember the details. 
 Hopefully they  will respond with a clear description. Anyway, the 
 horns are well damped due to this construction technique and  don't 
 exhibit the ringing and resonances that are common with metal horns,  
 which is one of the reasons they sound so good.  Greg Bogantz   
   - Original Message -  From: Steven Medved 
 steve_noreen at msn.com To: Antique Phonograph List 
 phono-l at oldcrank.org Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 1:35 PM Subject: 
 Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1BThanks so much, what 
 was the 1A horn made of?   Steve From: 
 gbogantz1 at charter.net To: phono-l at oldcrank.org Date: Mon, 27 Oct  
  
 2008 22:40:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Resea
 rch: Amberolas 1A and   1B  I have all three machines, the Amberola 
 1A, 1B, and III. The III isvery close to the 1B in sound, but I 
 think it's a little more midrangey   due  to the metal horn. But it 
 does sound very good, and it's my second   favorite  4-minute cylinder 
 player on the basis of sound quality, the 1B   being the  best 
 commercially produced 4-minute cylinder machine ever   made in my  
 opinion. George Paul and I are having this discussion   currently over 
 on the  OTV board, and we both agree also that the 1A is   the best 
 sounding  commercially available 2 minute machine. The horns   used in 
 all these  machines were the best that anybody ever made for   
 cylinder machines, the  metal one in the III being a close derivative of 
the shape of the ones in  the 1A and 1B. This metal horn has a 
 fairly   complex shape and was never  used in any other Ediso  n 
 product.  Greg Bogantz- Original Message --
 ---  From:   Steven Medved steve_noreen at msn.com To: Antique 
 Phonograph List   phono-l at oldcrank.org Sent: Monday, October 27, 
 2008 10:26 PM Subject:   Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B  
How does it compare   with the 1B sound wise since the horn is 
 different?   Steve   Hey Jim,  My Amberola III is 
 absolutely one of my very favorite machines. Sounds  
 superblooks superb..plays wax Amberols like no other 
 vintage machine  I have ever heard... It makes me 
 happy.  Bestest,  Michael Khanchalian (cyldoc)
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[Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B

2008-10-29 Thread Greg Bogantz
George, I'll be sending the data on my 1A and 1B to you separately.  But 
I got to thinking that there may be some more variations among these early 
amberolas that you ought to explore.  Several years ago there was some 
discussion on some of the phono boards about the rarity - or not - of the 
split hoof foot on the early Pooley cabinet (third picture from left on 
page 163 of Frow).  In my experience most of the Pooley 1As that I've seen 
have the split hoof.  Whereas my 1B has the lion's paw feet.  It  would be 
interesting if you also gathered this information from our readers.  Also, I 
think I've seen newer Pooley style cabinets (perhaps actually made by 
Edison) that did not have the grille louvers on the sides of the cabinet. 
Frow also mentions that variations of the Pooley cabinet were made such that 
the same cabinet could be used for both amberolas and the first disc 
machines.  He says that there is a height variation of some 2 inches among 
these versions.  And evidently only the earliest Herzog cabinets had the 
flat lock key whereas the later cabinets used the more common barrel style 
key.  So I'm suggesting that you add four more items to your questionnaire:

-- Style of front foot (split hoof, lion's paw, other)
-- Presence and number of louvers on cabinet side
-- Height of cabinet (not counting casters)
-- Type of key (flat or barrel)

Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: gpaul2...@aol.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B



 I'm asking for data from owners of Amberolas 1A and 1B. I'm
 working on an article on the early Amberolas, similar to a study done
 on suitcase Homes two years ago and published in The Sound Box.
 Data received will be compiled in an article scheduled to appear in the
 March 2009 issue of The Sound Box, and all contributors will be
 acknowledged. (If you'd like your data/identity to be kept
 confidential, I will of course honor your wishes. I can be contacted
 directly at gpaul2000 at aol.com.)

 I'm looking for the following information from owners of Amberolas 1A or 
 1B:

 1) Type (1A or 1B)?
 2) Serial Number (and do data plate and mechanism numbers match?
 3) Lid: smooth or stepped?
 4) Upper front corner posts: plain or carved?
 5) Grille: Lyre, first rococo, or second rococo (all shown on page 163 of 
 Frow)?
 6) Apron (bottom of cabinet): wavy or more flattened (as shown on page 163 
 of Frow)?
 7) Drawers: wooden separators or metal clips?

 I will gratefully accept data here at Phono-L, or at gpaul2000 at aol.com.

 Thanks in advance for your help!

 Best to all,
 George Paul



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[Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B

2008-10-28 Thread Greg Bogantz
Steve, the 1A and 1B horns are very odd.  They're made of a fibrous 
material, molded or layed up against a form.  Different from anything else 
that Edison ever did.  Someone on one of these phono boards had the answer 
in a previous posting, but I can't remember the details.  Hopefully they 
will respond with a clear description.
Anyway, the horns are well damped due to this construction technique and 
don't exhibit the ringing and resonances that are common with metal horns, 
which is one of the reasons they sound so good.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B


 Thanks so much, what was the 1A horn made of?

 Steve



 From: gbogantz1 at charter.net To: phono-l at oldcrank.org Date: Mon, 27 
 Oct 
 2008 22:40:02 -0400 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 
 1B  I have all three machines, the Amberola 1A, 1B, and III. The III is 
   very close to the 1B in sound, but I think it's a little more midrangey 
 due  to the metal horn. But it does sound very good, and it's my second 
 favorite  4-minute cylinder player on the basis of sound quality, the 1B 
 being the  best commercially produced 4-minute cylinder machine ever 
 made in my  opinion. George Paul and I are having this discussion 
 currently over on the  OTV board, and we both agree also that the 1A is 
 the best sounding  commercially available 2 minute machine. The horns 
 used in all these  machines were the best that anybody ever made for 
 cylinder machines, the  metal one in the III being a close derivative of 
 the shape of the ones in  the 1A and 1B. This metal horn has a fairly 
 complex shape and was never  used in any other Ediso
 n product.  Greg Bogantz- Original Message -  From: 
 Steven Medved steve_noreen at msn.com To: Antique Phonograph List 
 phono-l at oldcrank.org Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:26 PM Subject: 
 Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1BHow does it compare 
 with the 1B sound wise since the horn is different?   Steve
   Hey Jim,  My Amberola III is absolutely one of my very favorite   
 machines. Sounds  superblooks superb..plays wax Amberols like no 
other vintage machine  I have ever heard... It makes me   
 happy.  Bestest,  Michael Khanchalian (cyldoc)  
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[Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)

2008-10-28 Thread Greg Bogantz
Bruce, the only reason that I discount the 1A from being the best 
cylinder player is because of its inferior motor.  The straight-cut spur 
gears of the 1A are decidedly noisier than the Opera motor of the 1B and the 
III.  When I first got my 1A, it sounded like and electric drill whenever I 
ran it.  The noise comes mostly from the high speed governor gears, and the 
only fix for it is to replace these gears with nearly perfect new ones.  Try 
to find those anywhere!  I got lucky and swapped a fellow collector some 
items for a set of nearly new gears which quieted my 1A down to the point 
where it is enjoyable, but still not as quiet as my 1B.  The other big 
problem with the 1A is that it doesn't have the mechanical flutter filter 
and flywheel that Edison added to some of his later motors such as the 
Opera, Amberola V, and all the late amberolas.  The lack of a sufficient 
flywheel coupled with the belt drive of the 1A virtually ensures that you'll 
get flutter and wow that is just an essential aspect of this design. 
Acoustically, the 1A is the same as the 1B, but the motor spoils the total 
experience a little.

However, since the 1A motor is no worse than any found on any other 2 
minute cylinder machine, the superior horn of the 1A makes it the best 
overall 2 minute machine in my estimation.  AND it has the added benefit 
that you can play 2 minute celluloid records with the Diamond A reproducer 
which is truly the best 2 minute experience that you can get in a 
commercially made machine.  I like my 1A just fine, but I prefer to hear 4 
minute celluloids on my 1B or my III.

I don't include the Opera among the very best sounding machines because 
I haven't heard ANY commercially made outside horns on cylinder machines 
that are the sonic equal to the horns in the Amberola 1s and III.  I 
mentioned on the OTV board that I have a mechanical engineer friend who 
decided to make his own large genuine cygnet shaped exponential outside 
horn.  He has fitted it to an Amberola 50 motor which he has put into a 
custom tabletop cabinet.  The horn is suspended over the carriage by a 
clever, original design double crane pantographic system that works much 
better than any original design.  He calls his machine the Ediphonic and 
has even put an Edison-style logo on it with that name.  The reproducer is a 
modified Diamond B which has a custom diaphragm in it similar to the ones 
that I make.  The entire project is very well-done, tidy, and authentic 
looking.  I can tell you with first-ear assurance that this is the BEST 
sounding acoustic 4 minute cylinder player I have EVER heard.  The 
exponential horn works wonderfully well with the Diamond B, and the results 
from playing the early directly recorded BA records (not the dubs) is some 
of the best sounding acoustic reproduction you will ever hear.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: valecnik57-p...@yahoo.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)


 Greg,

 I'd be interested to know more about why an Amberola 1A would not sound 
 equally as good as the 1B for 4 min wax or blue amberols assuming the 
 correct reproducer is used, (the M for 4 min wax and the diamond A for 
 blue amberols)?

 Thanks,
 Bruce

 Bruce Johnson
 Pod Valem II, 870
 252 43 Pruhonice
 Czech Republic


 Tel: (CZ) + 420 602 362 473
 Tel: (US) + 1 612 605 5242




 
 From: phono-l-request at oldcrank.org phono-l-request at oldcrank.org
 To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 8:00:05 PM
 Subject: Phono-L Digest, Vol 5, Issue 288

 Send Phono-L mailing list submissions to
phono-l at oldcrank.org

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of Phono-L digest...
 If you reply, please change your subject line and don't include this 
 entire digest in your message.Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Loss To Phono Collector Community (Zonophone2006 at aol.com)
   2. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Michael F. Khanchalian)
   3. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Steven Medved)
   4. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)
   5. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Rich)
   6. Re: Phono-L Digest, Vol 5, Issue 287 (RROCRREC at aol.com)
   7. Dave Boruff (Mark Dawson)
   8. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Steven Medved)
   9. Re: Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B (Greg Bogantz)
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[Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B

2008-10-27 Thread Greg Bogantz
I have all three machines, the Amberola 1A, 1B, and III.  The III is 
very close to the 1B in sound, but I think it's a little more midrangey due 
to the metal horn.  But it does sound very good, and it's my second favorite 
4-minute cylinder player on the basis of sound quality, the 1B being the 
best commercially produced 4-minute cylinder machine ever made in my 
opinion.  George Paul and I are having this discussion currently over on the 
OTV board, and we both agree also that the 1A is the best sounding 
commercially available 2 minute machine.  The horns used in all these 
machines were the best that anybody ever made for cylinder machines, the 
metal one in the III being a close derivative of the shape of the ones in 
the 1A and 1B.  This metal horn has a fairly complex shape and was never 
used in any other Edison product.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Research: Amberolas 1A and 1B


 How does it compare with the 1B sound wise since the horn is different?

 Steve



 Hey Jim,  My Amberola III is absolutely one of my very favorite 
 machines. Sounds  superblooks superb..plays wax Amberols like no 
 other vintage machine  I have ever heard... It makes me 
 happy.  Bestest,  Michael Khanchalian (cyldoc)
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[Phono-L] Columbia BF Peerless

2008-10-15 Thread Greg Bogantz
Columbia did make the BF in a 24 minute version.  I have one.  Or else they 
made an adaptor kit to convert the machines.  The 24 minute gearing is 
accomplished the same way it is on other Columbias of this vintage - there 
is a spider planetary idler gear mounted inside the gear housing that is 
either engaged or disengaged via a lever that fits inside a slot on the gear 
cover over the feed screw.  The Columbia #12 Lyric  reproducer is used with 
the 24 minute machines.  These have a single tubular sapphire rod instead 
of a button stylus which is the proper size for playing 4 minute records. 
Obviously, this small stylus will eat up 2 minute wax records, but Columbia 
didn't care as they were making celluloid 2 and 4 minute records at that 
time.  I don't see the gear shift lever on this eBay machine, so it's 
probably the 2 minute model.

Greg Bogantz


- Original Message - 
From: BruceY bruce78...@comcast.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia BF Peerless


 Thanks, as I thought. I had never heard of a 4 minute BF Peerless, and I
 have one exactly like it. yes indeed, must have some funky bidders out
 there, funking up the prices.

 Bruce
 - Original Message - 
 From: Loran Hughes loran at oldcrank.com
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 7:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia BF Peerless


I agree with George. The price is as funky as the BA will sound ;)
 Loran

 On Oct 15, 2008, at 3:57 PM, George Glastris wrote:

 It seems quite high, but all the bidders are fairly new.  And no,
 there is
 no 4-minute attachment on it so that Blue Amberol is going to sound
 funky.
 George

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[Phono-L] Columbia BC friction wheel drive

2008-09-10 Thread Greg Bogantz
I just received this link to a forum thread devoted to the Columbia BC. 
Reid Welch has fitted new friction parts to a BC and has had good success 
with them.  He even includes a video of his machine in operation!  The only 
one on the internet, I think.  There's hope for us BC owners yet!  Good 
stuff.  Enjoy:

http://www.forum.condorcup.com/viewtopic.php?f=7t=20p=59#p51

Greg Bogantz




- Original Message - 
From: zonophone2...@aol.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 5:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia BC friction wheel drive


 paul baker used to restore these but he takes a long time to do it


 In a message dated 8/30/2008 3:49:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
 steve_noreen at msn.com writes:

 Hi  Greg,

 Does anyone make reproduction parts for these  reproducers?

 Steve



 : [Phono-L] Columbia BC friction  wheel drive  Ron, it's difficult to
 explain the BC friction wheel  driveshaft system  without pictures or 
 handwaving
 :o) The drive train  begins with a  gear-driven piece of metal tubing 
 which is
 enclosed in the  stationary outer  housing which is fastened to the gear
 housing casting on  the side of the  machine. This first piece of tubing 
 (call
 it part 1)  rotates but does not  translate axially. Inside this rotating
 tubing is  the brass coupling sleeve  (part 2) which can rotate and also 
 slide
 along  its axis. And inside the  brass sleeve is the solid rod (part 3) 
 which
 connects with the amber wheel.  This part 3 rotates and also slides 
 axially.
 Part 2 has two slots,  diametrically opposed and milled into its  outside
 surface that run almost  the full length of the part. Part 1  transmits 
 its
 torque via two setscrews  which extend inward from Part 1  into the slots 
 milled
 in part 2. (Access to  these screws is via a hole  drilled in the s
 tationary outer tube.) This  allows Part 2 to be  rotated by part 1 and 
 also
 to slide axially inside part  1. Part 3 has a  T shaped fixture at its 
 end
 that engages two longitudinal  slots milled  INSIDE of part 2. This is 
 what
 transmits the torque from part  2 to part 3  and also allows part 3 to
 translate axially. The slots inside  of part 2  do not extend all the way 
 to the
 ends of part 2. When part 3 is  pulled  along the mandrel with the 
 reproducer,
 its T fixture hits the ends  of the  slots inside of part 2 and thereby 
 drags
 part 2 along with it  axially.  All this assemblage has a purposefully
 sloppy fit to allow the  amber  wheel end of part 3 to wobble around 
 radially so
 it can follow the  stylus  assembly as it is raised and lowered from the
 record surface.  Clear  as mud? Again, it's hard to envision what's 
 happening
 without  seeing the  structure in detail. But maybe this helps understand 
 it. 
 Greg  Bogantz
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[Phono-L] Columbia no. 5 reproducer repair for Columbia AO

2008-09-07 Thread Greg Bogantz
Columbia made a special sapphire stylus for their 24 minute reproducers. 
It was a sapphire rod, rather like the concept of the tungstone wire.  The 
diameter was small enough to fit properly in the 4 minute groove.  Like the 
wire, the rod did not change shape during it's useful life until it wore 
completely down.  The problem, of course, is that it is too small to work 
properly with 2 minute wax records, and it will gouge them.  But Columbia 
didn't care if you wore out your Edison records on it because Columbia was 
selling only celluloid records by that time   :o)

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia no. 5 reproducer repair for Columbia AO


 What type of cylinder stylus did Columbia make beside the ball stylus?

 Steve



 From: Zonophone2006 at aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 16:09:53 -0400 To: 
 phono-l at oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia no. 5 reproducer 
 repair for Columbia AO  hi ray et al on mine i cant tell you  i still 
 need to find an appropriate stylus mine did not come with oneIn 
 a message dated 9/5/2008 11:19:17 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
 wilenzick at bellsouth.net writes:  I have an AO, but not an AW. I have 
 been told that the sound quality of the   AW reproducer is inferior to 
 that of the AO, so why would anyone want to  convert the machines. Is 
 that true?  Ray   - Original Message -  From: 
 Zonophone2006 at aol.com To: phono-l at oldcrank.org Sent: Friday, 
 September 05, 2008 10:30 AM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Columbia no. 5 
 reproducer repair for Columbia AOHI  I have an ao and an aow  
 the reproducer and the neck it sits on are totally different on these  
 so be careful in trying to convert oneIn a message dated 
 9/3/2008 4:3
 7:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  valecnik57-purc at yahoo.com writes:  
   I'm looking for recommendations regarding someone who could expertly   
 repair  the reproducer on my Columbia AO. It's the floating type, a no. 
 5, I   believe  although it is not marked in any way. Would also be 
 interested in the  conversion kit to install the model 8 reproducer, 
 which essentially   converts an  AO to an AW.   Thanks,  Bruce 
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 (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv000547)  
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[Phono-L] Cheap Opera

2008-08-24 Thread Greg Bogantz
I'm surprised that most of the fabulous phonos at the Skinner auction 
didn't bring more.  This Opera with Music Master horn only brought $3500.  
Assuming these phonos were in good condition, which you couldn't really tell 
from the skimpy photos that were provided, the prices seem surprisingly low:

http://cgi.liveauctions.ebay.com/811-Edison-Opera-Phonograph-Type-SM-Model-A-No-981_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a552Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3911Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220266997472QQitemZ220266997472

Ditto the Vic VI with speartip horn, the Victrola XVIII, and the Edison Triumph 
E with 11 panel cygnet - the horn alone was worth the $950 price.  That 
Columbia BC with huge horn was a steal at $1600.  Assuming that 42 inch horn is 
correct and original, it's rare and unique to the BC having a large throat to 
connect to the large BC reproducer.  The only thing that seemed to go high was 
the Class M, and that was said to be a cob job with a Triumph top and 
customized idler pulleys, yet it went for 22 grand.  I guess the hard times 
have finally hit the hi end phono market.  Apparently only the VERY RARE stuff 
is still commanding big bux.  I guess when you've already got all the merely 
rare stuff, you've by definition got too much money, so you don't bat an eye 
when a super-rare piece crosses your path.  Jeeves, bring the checkbook 
'round.  I've just seen a trinket I don't yet have.

Greg Bogantz


[Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values

2008-08-14 Thread Greg Bogantz
Yes, the vinyl records from the postwar period have held up surprisingly 
well so far.  Certainly better than magnetic tape from that period.  If you 
can manage to find a Vogue that hasn't been played or scratched to death, 
the sound quality on them is pretty good.  But one of their potential 
problems is the oxidation of the aluminum substrate.   I have more than one 
Vogue that has been severely cracked or chipped in years past which has 
allowed moisture and air to get to the aluminum surface.  This causes mild 
to severe powderizing and bubbling of oxide to form on the aluminum which 
then bubbles up the paper and vinyl sheet laid on top of it.  This damage 
can usually be heard before it's seen - the bubbling causes a noticeable 
increase in the rumble content when you play the record.  I'm not sure why 
Vogues were made with an aluminum substrate rather than using a vinyl core 
as is done with modern picture records.  Might have been a patent 
infringement thing since RCA and others had made picture records in the 
1930s.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values


 Indeed. There have been very few plastics that  have had any permanence.
 Catalin has shown to be more stable than many others, but when the
 plasticizer finally dries out of the plasticx, it's curtains for the 
 piece.
 In the thirties, plastics were all the panic. There were things shown in
 plastics that were downright sensational. I'm sure that a lot of people
 thought that glass would soon be made obsolete by gorgeous plastic things.
 Well, my mother and my aunt didn't throw out their cut crystal, and I now
 have a couple of cabinets full of it.

 In those days (that I remember so well), the automotive industry went
 ballistic over plastics too. Today, there are guys who re-mold steering
 wheels for those cars. The big plstic was Tenite I, a plastic by Tennessee
 Eastman in Kingsport, Tennessee. You'll travel long and far to see an
 original steering wheel on a prewar car!.  However, I have a '38 Cadillac,
 with the original steering wheel, and still decent dash plastic, and you
 just don't ever see that.

 Which brings us to the Vogue records. Tom Saffady, a tool  and die maker 
 on
 East eight mile road in East Detroit (Across 8 Mile from Detroit) got the
 idea of making these pretty records. I understand that he used an aluminum
 base, attached the artwork to it, and molded the plastic to it, pressing
 the recording in the same operation. While I don't know for sure what the
 plastic is, I'm sure that  it's a vinyl, and of the best quality at the
 time. When they hit the stores, they made quite a splash, and they sold
 well, more for their novel character than anything else. No surprise, they
 were priced higher than the major brand shellac discs, but their charm 
 gave
 them their value. Sadly, the novelty wore off, and Saffady wasn't able to
 get the price down to meet the competition. He had tried to have a 
 multiple
 pressing rig, to perss (I believe) nine discs at once, but it never 
 worked.
 He folded, unfortunately, and his building later housed a cutthroat
 department store caled something like Hall of bargains. One day, I passed
 there, and the place had been gutted by fire, and not all of the walls 
 were
 standing. I believe that there is a fast food place on that site today.

 So, what about the plastic that Sav-Way Industries (Tom Saffady) used on
 those discs? Astoundingly, it seems to have held up very well. Since Vinyl
 plastics harden and shrink with age, I would worry about the Vogue discs
 deteriorating at some time in the future. Plastics are not permanent, and
 the newest Vogue disc is about 62 byears old.  The aluminum core will not
 shrink, but the plastic could.


 [Original Message]
 From: Greg Bogantz gbogantz1 at charter.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Date: 8/13/2008 5:02:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values

 Doug, it's especially ironic that you use the phrase the base in the
 catalin game is crumbling.  Not just the base, but the cabinets
 themselves.
 Catalin degenerates steadily and eventually falls apart with age.
 Shoving a
 bunch of money at catalin is like stacking time bombs on your shelf.  Not
 unlike investing in Edison 4-minute wax amberols.  Sit them on your shelf
 and listen for the steady clink, tink, clunk of the records
 self-destructing as the temperature and humidity changes in your house.
 Investors who sink a lot of money in these absurdities deserve what
 they're going to get - a pile of dust before it's all over.

 Greg Bogantz



 - Original Message - 
 From: Douglas Houston cdh041 at earthlink.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:43 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue

[Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values

2008-08-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
Doug, it's especially ironic that you use the phrase the base in the 
catalin game is crumbling.  Not just the base, but the cabinets themselves. 
Catalin degenerates steadily and eventually falls apart with age.  Shoving a 
bunch of money at catalin is like stacking time bombs on your shelf.  Not 
unlike investing in Edison 4-minute wax amberols.  Sit them on your shelf 
and listen for the steady clink, tink, clunk of the records 
self-destructing as the temperature and humidity changes in your house. 
Investors who sink a lot of money in these absurdities deserve what 
they're going to get - a pile of dust before it's all over.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values


 Reading all these comments looks like the replay of a lot of collector's
 panics over the years. I saw it with coins, back in the sixties, with a
 friend who was into them, and I probably know of other similar situations
 as well. The price level spirals up to the point that the only exchanges
 are from dealer to dealer. Dealers begin to get tired of getting the same
 item over and over, and somewhere, somebody stops buying. It  is then, 
 that
 the tower tumbles, and a lot of nspeculators lose a bundle on now-lowered
 value stuff.

 One thing that comes to mind right now, is the hunger for radios with
 catalin cabinets. They've gone thousands of bucks for some models. As far
 as radios go, the chassis in them are 99.% cheap, and dinky. It's the
 pretty plastic cases that are the real issue. It isn't radio collectors
 that want them. It's those who want the pret-ty colorful cabinets, and of
 course, the capital gains that result from the exchange of them.

 On the surface, at least, there has never been any short supply of them.
 There are dealers in the big rado meets, who have 20 or 30 of them on 
 their
 table. It's amusing that lots of sellers on the 'bay call a bakelite radio
 cabinet Catalin. I'm sure that many a buyer has been badly  jostled by one
 of those shysters, but the buyer should research, and know what he / she 
 is
 buying. Anyway, it's  now beginning th look like the base in the catalin
 game is crumbling. There are signs that prices are possibly on the way
 down, and I'd be delighted to see it happen. The cabinets are pretty; the
 radios are garbage.

 One of the things that killed Vogue records in the first place was that
 they never had a hit. I also recall that they were priced at $1.05, while
 the major labels sold for $.75 I bought a couple of them, new back then,
 not for what was on them, but because they were pretty.  Someone has
 already said that Vogue discs are desirable, not so much for their
 programmatic content, but their cuteness. Today, wise people are pulling 
 in
 their horns, and hanging on to their mazuma. We are already in an economic
 slump, and it promises to get slumpier. I can imagine other scenarios like
 this in the days ahead.


 [Original Message]
 From: Mike Stitt smstitt at gmail.com
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Date: 8/13/2008 2:13:30 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values

 Vogues went high after Ed Curry's book. Before the book they were
 cheap. I even found them at Goodwill.
 The market is very soft across the board. High prices bring more to
 market. eBay helped to do that. Collectors get all they need. I
 suggest Vogues in the market exceeded interested or new collectors
 entering into that market. Most casual collectors are content to have
 a few as they define a genre. Few want a complete number run
 (production run) at a $100 a pop. IMHO. The Queen for a Day a few
 years back went for stupid money.
  I have many Vogues and have little interest in them at those prices.
 Mike

 On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 10:37 AM, Albert cenfin at comcast.net wrote:
  for sure, I got bit by the bug and bought up as many as I could trying
 to
  complete the collection and I almost did, but have probably lost about
 half
  of my investment.  I am missing the Transformer and Queen for a Day.  I
 have
  to assume those are still worth a lot.  Al
  - Original Message -
  From: wilenzick at bellsouth.net
  To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
  Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 10:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Vogue Picture Records values
 
 
  Thanks for your interesting comment on the Vogues.  I agree with you 
  on
  the
  reason for the drop in value of the Wurlitzer 1015, but I am not so
 sure
  the
  same argument applies to the Vogues.  The 1015's were bought and sold
 as
  entertainment devices, and the bars, etc. that bought them for 45s and
 CDs
  could care less if they were original or reproduction machines.  On 
  the
  other hand, vogues were generally not bought for their music content,
 but
  rather as vintage collectibles

[Phono-L] Styli

2008-07-15 Thread Greg Bogantz
The rule of thumb here is the same as that for playing lateral-cut 
records:  Use whatever stylus size sounds the best.  That's not a flippant 
remark.  Depending on where the wear has been inflicted on the groove walls, 
you can use a non-standard stylus size to ride on an unworn portion of the 
groove and get better sound.  This may mean you need to use a smaller one to 
ride lower in the groove or a larger one to ride higher in the groove, 
whatever gets around the worn portion better.  And you never know when you 
begin on a particular record what stylus is going to sound the best until 
you try several of them.

The case with vertical cut records is a little different because the 
wear is nearly always at the very bottom of the groove.  In this case, you 
can get better playback if you use a very large diameter or a special 
truncated stylus to try to bridge the worn area, but it's a bit more 
difficult.  For vertical records in good condition, you can use just about 
any size stylus you want, so long as you are using a low tracking force, say 
2 grams or less, which is no problem for modern cartridges and tonearms.  I 
tend to use a conventional LP stylus (0.7 to 1.0 mil radius) for starters 
when playing DDs or Pathes and it usually works pretty well.  You have to 
adjust your anti-skating force on the tonearm pretty carefully to prevent 
skating or groove skipping, especially when playing the VERY shallow Pathe 
grooves.

Likewise, an LP stylus should work well for playing celluloid 2 or 4 
minute cylinders.  Use of a smaller stylus tip will reduce tracing 
distortion and improve high frequency performance.

However, I would advise that you use a large, original sized stylus when 
playing any wax cylinders, even with low tracking force.  This would be 
about 3 mil for 4 minute and 6 mil for 2 minute.  The wax is so soft that a 
sharper stylus will cut the wax even at 2 grams tracking force.  The 3 mil 
styli are fairly easily obtained from several sources for the popular Shure 
and Stanton/Pickering cartridges.  But you just about have to go to Expert 
Stylus in England to get a 6 mil size.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: jim...@earthlink.net
To: Phono-L at oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 1:40 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Styli


A friend has asked me to record electrically some of my vertical-cut Pathe 
records  I also want to record electrically Edison Diamond Discs  two  
four-minute cylinders.I have sophisticated equipment for playing 78s 
electrically (for 17 years I produced a weekly show
 for the local FM station of Classical 78s) including a Packburn Noise 
 Suppressor which has switch for playing vertical-cut recordings but I
 need styluses to play Pathe, Diamond Discs,  two  four-minute cylinders 
 (using a Rabco tangential tracking arm   the mandrel 
 motor from an Amberola 30) that will fit  either a Shure M44 cartridge, 
 Shure M78S cartridge or  Shure Model V cartridge   If any of you all 
 have had experience in electrically-reproducing vertical-cut records of 
 various types  can advise me on sources for such styli I would  greatly 
 appreciate it.   (I know of Expert Pickups in England but their prices are 
 out of this world so I hope to find a more affordable source.0
 Thanks!
 
 Jim Cartwright
 
 Immortal Performances



 jimcip at earthlink.net
 EarthLink Revolves Around You.
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[Phono-L] AB's and gear oiling

2008-07-15 Thread Greg Bogantz
The issue with using oil or grease on metal parts is whether it dries up 
and gets sticky over time.  This can be especially detrimental  on very 
low-torque mechanisms such as the escapement or verge of a clockwork. 
Also, oiling must be done with the right formula when applied to 
non-metallic surfaces such as the fiber gears on some phonographs.  Some 
people prefer not to oil fiber gears at all.  Some fiber gears are designed 
to run dry if they mesh with a highly polished worm gear.  But high-torque 
gears such as the winding gears where the crank shaft meshes with the spring 
barrel and the output or bull gear on the spring barrel on phonographs 
should be lubricated with a heavy oil or grease.  These are often 
steel-on-steel gears.  I restore both clocks and phonos and I usually grease 
the high-torque gears on the spring barrel of phonos and use a 20 weight or 
so oil on all the other metal gears, including the high-speed governor gears 
and pivots.  I actually use a mixture of petroleum oil and a PTFE additive 
such as Slick 50 for my middle weight applications.  The PTFE works 
especially well on sliding surfaces such as the ways that support the 
reproducer on cylinder phonos.  Sliding surfaces lubricated this way hold 
their lubricity for a very long time.

Clocks have considerably lower torque in their spring barrels, so a 
medium weight oil is all that's necessary on them.  Then I oil the pivots 
and higher speed gears with a very light clock oil.  These oils are designed 
not to gunk up and won't get sticky.  I do not oil the escapement mechanism 
at all, whether pendulum or balance wheel type, although I do oil their 
pivots with the light oil.

I agree that 3-in-1 oil is not good for these purposes.  And WD-40 is a 
BAD idea as it gets sticky quite quickly when the solvent evaporates from 
it.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L lhera...@bu.edu
To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] AB's and gear oiling


 Why would oil ruin the phonograph?   Is it an issue of uneven wear with
 dissimilar materials?

 Ron L

 -Original Message-
 From: phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-bounces at 
 oldcrank.org] 
 On
 Behalf Of Rich
 Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 2:29 PM
 To: Antique Phonograph List
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] AB's and gear oiling

 You do not oil gears except in special cases.  Many people are not
 swayed by sound engineering practices and proceed to ruin good
 phonographs. Clocks have brass meshed with steel and so do most
 phonographs.  IF you find similar materials meshed with each other then
 an extremely light coat is beneficial.  Use a synthetic oil or a clock
 oil.  The 3 in 1 oil is crap.

 Mike Stitt wrote:
 The recent thread about the AB MacDonald brings up a good question. Among
 the many things I collect includes clocks. Now in the world of clocks you
 never oil gears, no  and no. Should you oil gears in phonographs? Would
 the
 higher rate of speed of the governor be a rationale? Would the presumed
 higher loads from a larger spring dictate oiling? I do and have oiled
 phonograph gears. Should we? And break the clock rule?
 Mike
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[Phono-L] Copper cygnet horn

2008-07-13 Thread Greg Bogantz
My guess is that this is a custom-made horn for a phonograph.  It has the 
hanger hook at the top of the elbow for use with a crane which is required 
for the early phonos.  No radio horns that I've ever seen used a crane and 
hanger arrangement - they were self-supporting.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: wilenz...@bellsouth.net
To: Phono-L at oldcrank.org
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Copper cygnet horn


 This eBay item is a Fireside with a COPPER cygnet horn.  Was such a horn 
 ever made, either for phonos or radios?

 http://cgi.ebay.com/Edison-Fireside-Model-A-Phonograph_W0QQitemZ330251905774QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330251905774_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

 Ray
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[Phono-L] Edison DD record #370058046814

2008-07-03 Thread Greg Bogantz
These thin ruby colored discs were made for the electronic Ediphone disc 
office dictation machine of the 1940s and 50s.  A number of designs were 
produced over a fairly long product life, and the machines were among the 
last products produced by TAE Inc. in West Orange, and were produced even 
after WWII.  The disc dictation machine was eventually replaced by the 
Edisette cassette tape dictation machine in the 1960s.  The red discs are 
originally completely smooth and are then cut and recorded vertically with a 
very small groove and can be played on a modern turntable with microgroove 
stylus and wired for vertical response.  Disc speed was about 20rpm.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: George victr...@triton.net
To: Phono-L phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 3:12 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] Edison DD record #370058046814


I do not recall ever seeing one of these. What are they?
Thank you,
George
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=370058046814ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm37%26satitle%3D370058046814%26category0%3D%26fvi%3D1





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[Phono-L] What is this? Atwater Kent Type 5V phonograph attachment

2008-06-04 Thread Greg Bogantz
Several manufacturers made these, with Atwater Kent being one of the 
most popular.  They allowed your radio to be played thru the horn of your 
phonograph.  While this may sound silly to us now, in the 1920s the radio 
speakers were pretty feeble and rather poor sounding.  And most radio sets 
of the day required that you separately purchase the speaker.  For those 
owners who already had a nice phonograph with a good horn on it, these 
speaker drivers were a good solution.  The speaker driver was less costly 
than a complete radio speaker, and in many cases the driver sounded better 
when played thru a good phonograph horn than any separate radio speaker of 
the day.  This was especially true in the late 1920s if you had an 
orthophonic horn in your Victor console phono.  The model number of the A-K 
drivers indicates the type of phono they were designed to fit.  The 5V model 
indicates that it was designed for coupling to the Victor tonearm in place 
of the standard phono reproducer.  I believe the ones designed for Columbia 
machines were a model number something like 5C.  I don't recall if there 
were any A-K drivers made to fit Edison machines.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: ny victrolaman victrola...@gmail.com
To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 2:01 PM
Subject: [Phono-L] What is this? Atwater Kent Type 5V phonograph attachment


 So I was cleaning out some storage and came across what looks like a large
 1920s radio horn speaker driver, which I must have picked up someplace 
 years
 ago.  It's about three inches in diameter, with a nine-foot cord, and it's
 quite heavy for its size.  (The driver itself tests very good.)  On the 
 top
 it is embossed Atwater Kent, Phila and Type 5V.  After doing some 
 digging,
 I found an old ad for it on that great AK website.  The ad lists it as a
 Phonograph Attachment, but says nothing about what exactly that is, what
 it does, and how exactly one would use it.  I recall seeing some old ads
 where something of this nature is sitting on a motorboard next to a
 reproducer, but that tells me nothing.  Does any out there know about 
 these
 things?  Anyone own one, or is anyone looking for one?  I'll be happy to
 send you pictures if it'll help clear this up.  Thanks in advance.
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[Phono-L] What is this? Atwater Kent Type 5V phonographattachment

2008-06-04 Thread Greg Bogantz
From my experience, the type 5V is the most common by far.  I rarely see 
the other A-K variants of this driver.  The 5V turn up moderately often on 
eBay and sell for 5 to 50 bux.  They're probably the most in demand by 
people who collect both radios and phonos as they are a good crossover 
collectible.  These were most popular in the period before about 1925.  I 
suspect that not many of the later ones designed to fit the orthophonic 
phonos were sold due to the fact that radio speaker technology was improving 
very rapidly with the introduction of the Kellogg dynamic speaker in 1925. 
By 1929 the radios sets complete with built-in speakers were sounding better 
than the acoustic phonos and the reverse adapter become popular - an 
electric pickup that could be fitted to an acoustic tonearm and which was 
wired into your radio so that you could play records thru your radio!

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: ny victrolaman victrola...@gmail.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] What is this? Atwater Kent Type 5V 
phonographattachment


 Well, that explains it, then.  Thanks for the info.  I tried it out on a
 Victrola and it fit like a glove!  According to this ad, AK also offered a
 Type 6C, which I guess would have been for Columbias, as well as a Type 
 VE-O
 and a Type VE-E, both of which were gold-plated.  I imagine those must 
 have
 been for Orthophonics, or maybe Electrolas?

 So would this type of thing appeal more to radio collectors or phonograph
 collectors?  (I'm both, but I don't have any 1920s sets anymore.  I stick 
 to
 the superhets these days.)  Do they turn up very often?  What do they
 bring?


 On 6/4/08, Greg Bogantz gbogantz1 at charter.net wrote:

Several manufacturers made these, with Atwater Kent being one of the
 most popular.  They allowed your radio to be played thru the horn of your
 phonograph.  While this may sound silly to us now, in the 1920s the radio
 speakers were pretty feeble and rather poor sounding.  And most radio 
 sets
 of the day required that you separately purchase the speaker.  For those
 owners who already had a nice phonograph with a good horn on it, these
 speaker drivers were a good solution.  The speaker driver was less costly
 than a complete radio speaker, and in many cases the driver sounded 
 better
 when played thru a good phonograph horn than any separate radio speaker 
 of
 the day.  This was especially true in the late 1920s if you had an
 orthophonic horn in your Victor console phono.  The model number of the 
 A-K
 drivers indicates the type of phono they were designed to fit.  The 5V
 model
 indicates that it was designed for coupling to the Victor tonearm in 
 place
 of the standard phono reproducer.  I believe the ones designed for 
 Columbia
 machines were a model number something like 5C.  I don't recall if there
 were any A-K drivers made to fit Edison machines.

 Greg Bogantz



 - Original Message -
 From: ny victrolaman victrolaman at gmail.com
 To: phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 2:01 PM
 Subject: [Phono-L] What is this? Atwater Kent Type 5V phonograph 
 attachment


  So I was cleaning out some storage and came across what looks like a
 large
  1920s radio horn speaker driver, which I must have picked up someplace
  years
  ago.  It's about three inches in diameter, with a nine-foot cord, and
 it's
  quite heavy for its size.  (The driver itself tests very good.)  On the
  top
  it is embossed Atwater Kent, Phila and Type 5V.  After doing some
  digging,
  I found an old ad for it on that great AK website.  The ad lists it as 
  a
  Phonograph Attachment, but says nothing about what exactly that is,
 what
  it does, and how exactly one would use it.  I recall seeing some old 
  ads
  where something of this nature is sitting on a motorboard next to a
  reproducer, but that tells me nothing.  Does any out there know about
  these
  things?  Anyone own one, or is anyone looking for one?  I'll be happy 
  to
  send you pictures if it'll help clear this up.  Thanks in advance.
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[Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?

2008-05-08 Thread Greg Bogantz
Ron L is correct.  But both of these springs were bad ideas to begin 
with.  They were a lame attempt to account for the escessive bias placed on 
the diaphragm by the extra weight which causes the diaphragm to be stressed 
(and strained) downward even more by the tension in the stylus bar link. 
The extra weight used in the Dance and Edisonic models was required to 
reduce mistracking and distortion when playing highly modulated records, 
particularly the later electrics.  It DOES NOT make the reproducer play 
louder, contrary to the bilge in the Edison blurbs to that effect.  The 
loudness can only be controlled by changing the mechanical gain of the 
stylus bar which is the ratio of the stylus tip distance to the bar pivot 
relative to the distance from the bar pivot to the link. This ratio is the 
same for ALL Edison DD stylus bars, hence they all play at the same 
loudness.  You can confirm this to yourself by using the different models of 
reproducer to play very soft recordings which do not tax the reproducers - 
they will all sound the same loudness.  The fact that they may sound 
different when playing loud recordings is due to the differences in 
mistracking and distortion that they exhibit on those records.

This biasing of the diaphragm is indigenous to the tracking of vertical 
modulation and is one of the several problems with that technology.  (This 
problem does not exist with lateral reproduction.)  Having a permanent bias 
or bend in one direction while playing a record causes the diaphragm to 
exhibit assymmetric nonlinear behavior  (due to it nonlinear elasticity) 
which is yet another contributor to the generation of even orders (2nd, 4th, 
6th, etc.) of harmonic distortion.  Edison tried to reduce this bias (or 
permanent bending offset under playing tension) of the diaphragm with the 
addition of these springs into his later models of DD reproducers.  There is 
a lot of bloviation about the purpose of the springs in his patent 
disclosure for the Dance reproducer, but compensation for the bias was their 
intended purpose.  It didn't work.  Mostly because he didn't account for the 
added spring constants these springs introduced into the diaphragm resonance 
which changes and/or adds to the mechanical resonances of the system.  In 
particular, he didn't damp the springs sufficiently or at all.  The 
diaphragm spring was designed with some damping in it, but it was 
ineffective.  The stylus bar spring has no damping that I can find. 
Consequently, you can hear this spring ring when you play records.  If you 
pay attention, you can hear a ringing noise behind the music which is this 
spring boinging or oscillating.  Bad idea.  My advice is to just remove both 
of these springs.  The reproducer will sound cleaner and clearer with fewer 
resonances and extraneous noises.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Ron L lhera...@bu.edu
To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?


I believe one has two springs and the other has only one.   I think the
 Edisonic has the spring only on the needle bar and the Dance has one on 
 the
 diaphragm as well, hence the bolt-on neck.

 Ron L

 -Original Message-
 From: phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-bounces at 
 oldcrank.org] 
 On
 Behalf Of Peter Fraser
 Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 1:46 PM
 To: Antique List Phonograph
 Subject: [Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?

 can anyone expound on the differences between the Edison Dance
 reproducer and its successor, the Edisonic?  As near as i can tell,
 it's just the bolt-on neck...but does the little spring have different
 characteristics?  is there anything else?  do they sound appreciably
 different when equally restored?

 thanks for anything you can offer...

 -- peter
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[Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?

2008-05-08 Thread Greg Bogantz
Not in my experience.  Take the springs off the reproducer and the 
ringing goes away.  Contrary to the Edison propaganda, these springs don't 
do anything useful.  Yes, you can damp the ringing by coating the springs in 
RTV or slipping a rubber sleeve over them, but you get better performance by 
just taking them off altogether.  Note that Edison himself must have given 
up on the interior diaphragm spring of the Dance design because he 
eliminated it when he went to the later Edisonic design.  These extra 
springs add additional peaks to the frequency response corresponding to 
their own resonance and their modifications to the diaphragm resonance. 
Neither of which is desirable.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: jim...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?


I think the ringing of the Edisonic Reproducer is due to the vibration of
 the weight, acting like a bell, being transmitted to the stylus bar  thus
 to the diaphragm by the spring, not by vibrations generated by the spring
 itself.

 Jim Cartwright

 jimcip at earthlink.net
 EarthLink Revolves Around You.


 [Original Message]
 From: Greg Bogantz gbogantz1 at charter.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Date: 5/8/2008 2:47:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?

 Ron L is correct.  But both of these springs were bad ideas to begin
 with.  They were a lame attempt to account for the escessive bias placed
 on
 the diaphragm by the extra weight which causes the diaphragm to be
 stressed
 (and strained) downward even more by the tension in the stylus bar link.
 The extra weight used in the Dance and Edisonic models was required to
 reduce mistracking and distortion when playing highly modulated records,
 particularly the later electrics.  It DOES NOT make the reproducer play
 louder, contrary to the bilge in the Edison blurbs to that effect.  The
 loudness can only be controlled by changing the mechanical gain of the
 stylus bar which is the ratio of the stylus tip distance to the bar pivot
 relative to the distance from the bar pivot to the link. This ratio is
 the
 same for ALL Edison DD stylus bars, hence they all play at the same
 loudness.  You can confirm this to yourself by using the different models
 of
 reproducer to play very soft recordings which do not tax the reproducers
 -
 they will all sound the same loudness.  The fact that they may sound
 different when playing loud recordings is due to the differences in
 mistracking and distortion that they exhibit on those records.

 This biasing of the diaphragm is indigenous to the tracking of
 vertical
 modulation and is one of the several problems with that technology.
 (This
 problem does not exist with lateral reproduction.)  Having a permanent
 bias
 or bend in one direction while playing a record causes the diaphragm to
 exhibit assymmetric nonlinear behavior  (due to it nonlinear elasticity)
 which is yet another contributor to the generation of even orders (2nd,
 4th,
 6th, etc.) of harmonic distortion.  Edison tried to reduce this bias (or
 permanent bending offset under playing tension) of the diaphragm with the
 addition of these springs into his later models of DD reproducers.  There
 is
 a lot of bloviation about the purpose of the springs in his patent
 disclosure for the Dance reproducer, but compensation for the bias was
 their
 intended purpose.  It didn't work.  Mostly because he didn't account for
 the
 added spring constants these springs introduced into the diaphragm
 resonance
 which changes and/or adds to the mechanical resonances of the system.  In
 particular, he didn't damp the springs sufficiently or at all.  The
 diaphragm spring was designed with some damping in it, but it was
 ineffective.  The stylus bar spring has no damping that I can find.
 Consequently, you can hear this spring ring when you play records.  If
 you
 pay attention, you can hear a ringing noise behind the music which is
 this
 spring boinging or oscillating.  Bad idea.  My advice is to just remove
 both
 of these springs.  The reproducer will sound cleaner and clearer with
 fewer
 resonances and extraneous noises.

 Greg Bogantz



 - Original Message - 
 From: Ron L lherault at bu.edu
 To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l at oldcrank.org
 Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 2:07 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] edisonic vs. dance?


 I believe one has two springs and the other has only one.   I think the
  Edisonic has the spring only on the needle bar and the Dance has one on
  the
  diaphragm as well, hence the bolt-on neck.
 
  Ron L
 
  -Original Message-
  From: phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org
 [mailto:phono-l-bounces at oldcrank.org]
  On
  Behalf Of Peter Fraser
  Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 1:46 PM
  To: Antique List Phonograph
  Subject: [Phono-L] edisonic vs

[Phono-L] Vertical on DD, Edison on saphire?

2008-04-10 Thread Greg Bogantz
Doug,  the lateral tracking angle (LTA) error that you mention as being 
indigenous to the Brunswick Ultona when playing vertical recordings (either 
Edison or Pathe) is of no consequence so far as reproduction fidelity is 
concerned.  LTA error describes the situation whereby the direction of 
lateral stylus motion is not perfectly radial with regard to the record. 
LTA error is caused by the tonearm overhang not being perfectly set at a 
given record diameter so as to produce stylus motion which is perfectly 
parallel to the modulation axis of the diaphragm (or other transducer).  LTA 
error will produce some undesired effects when playing lateral-cut records. 
But purely mono vertical recordings such as Edisons and Pathes produce the 
same stylus tip motion, regardless of  LTA, which results in the same 
diaphragm (or other transducer) motion which means that LTA has NO affect on 
reproduction of purely vertical modulation.  The situation is complicated in 
the case of modern stereo recordings where there are two channels of audio, 
each comprised of a lateral and a vertical component, and LTA (as well as 
vertical tracking angle, VTA) does affect the reproduced signal.  However, 
LTA does have an affect on the skating force delivered to the tonearm which 
may cause mistracking or groove skipping or sticking.  Note that the Edison 
DD players DO have a significant amount of LTA designed into them as well, 
although not as much as an Ultona.  Which had no detrimental affect on the 
reproduction, so Edison ignored it.  But it did pose a problem with groove 
skipping when Edison released the long play (LP) version of the DD due to 
the extremely small and shallow groove shape.  Edison had to minimize the 
LTA of the LP reproducer the best he could while still utilizing his 
original DD player tonearm design.  He was able to do this by canting the 
reproducer weight at an angle relative to the output sound tube.  Again, 
this was done only to reduce the incidence of groove skipping, not for 
reproduction quality reasons.

Trying to use a DD reproducer for playing other vertical-cut records 
will immediately present a problem of how to pull the reproducer across the 
record.  If you use the feedscrew of the DD player, you will probably not 
get good tracking for very long because most other records were not cut at 
the same pitch (number of lines per inch) as the DDs and the reproducer 
weight limit pin will hit the limit loop within just a few revolutions of 
the record.  Trying to disengage the feedscrew on a DD player is not 
reasonable because the tonearm is extremely massive (it also moves the 
complete horn assembly) and has way too much friction for the record groove 
to move the tonearm, again resulting in groove skipping.  Mounting the DD 
reproducer on a different tonearm would be possible, but no original 
equipment was designed for this.

Ignoring the very real issue of pulling the reproducer across the 
record, the question of using an Edison DD reproducer on other types of 
records then becomes
one of whether the stylus fits the groove shape properly.  Most other 
vertical cut records had a substantially different groove shape from that of 
the DD.  Pathe grooves were much wider and the use of the smaller DD stylus 
will tear them up rapidly.  Other vertical records had basically a V-shaped 
fairly deep groove much the same as that used in lateral cuts.  They were 
designed to be played with steel needles which would quickly wear themselves 
into the shape of the groove and thereby reduce the pressure on the groove 
walls and keep record wear to a minimum, just as with lateral records. 
Again, use of a DD diamond stylus in one of these V grooves will rapidly 
wear the record.  Likewise, use of a stylus shape different from the Edison 
when playing DDs is not recommended at the high tracking forces required by 
acoustic reproducers.  Too small a stylus will tear up the DD and too large 
a stylus tip will not fit into the groove which will result in groove 
skipping and much echo.  However, the use of modern pickups with very light 
tracking force poses no problem for playing DDs.  With tracking forces of 
about 4 grams or less, even with a considerably undersized stylus, there is 
so little pressure on the hard condensite record material that the material 
will not yield and no record wear should result.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2008 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Vertical on DD, Edison on saphire?


 Ron:  Of all people on this planet, I'm probably the least to comment 
 intelligently about playing DD's on anything but an Edison phonograph. 
 But, since, for instance, the Brunswick Ultona head plays a DD, and the 
 disc  carries  the stylus across the record,  it does so on an angle not 
 done on an Edison player. The modulaion of the groove

[Phono-L] Seeburg Home Library

2008-03-31 Thread Greg Bogantz
Doug, even though it's bigger than a Victor 10-50, it weighs about the 
same.  The wood console cabinet was made and sold as two pieces.  You could 
originally buy just the mechanism is you wanted to custom install it.  Or 
you could buy just the wooden mechanism housing if you wanted it to be free 
standing.  Or you could buy the lower record storage and speaker stand (also 
contained the power amp) as an option.  Or you could order the entire 
ensemble complete as one model as you see it shown on the eBay listing.  But 
the cabinets were still supplied as separate upper and lower sections.  I 
have the mechanism and complete electronics for one of these which I've 
built into my own cabinet.  I wasn't able to salvage the original cabinet. 
But from what I have and what I can see of the cabinet, I'm estimating that 
the entire upper section probably weighs about 200 pounds.  And the lower 
section which is mostly empty probably weighs another 100 pounds for a 
combined weight of around 300 pounds.  But it's still a BIG beast, even 
separated into two parts.  You'd have to have a large pickup truck or a 
full-sized van to haul the thing.  But it's a great toy.  I use mine 
regularly.  The mechanical design is beautiful, robust, and works like a 
charm.  Despite the direct worm gearing (no rubber belts or drive pucks to 
wear out), there is no rumble, wow, or flutter in playback

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: [Phono-L] Seeburg Home Library


 The thing is beautiful. I shudder to thnk what it weighs, though.


 [Original Message]
 From: Greg Bogantz gbogan...@charter.net
 To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Date: 3/30/2008 4:11:13 PM
 Subject: [Phono-L] Seeburg Home Library

 Hey guys, here's a rare opportunity to score one of the most unusual
 home phonographs ever made, the Seeburg Home Library:


 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Seeberg-Automatic-Record-Console_W0QQitemZ260223
 421468QQihZ016QQcategoryZ3283QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

   In case you don't know what it is, this is the first 78rpm version
 of the Seeburg Select-O-Matic record changer which was introduced as the
 M100A jukebox in 1948.  It is full intermix - you can use 10 and 12 inch
 records loaded in any order anywhere in the record magazine with automatic
 size selection by the mechanism.  The M100A offered 100 selections, 
 whereas
 this version holds 100 records for a total of 200 selections.  This
 mechanism was offered as the Seeburg Industrial/Commercial Music (SICM)
 system housed in a huge steel cabinet as well as this home version as 
 shown
 in the wooden console.  This model includes the preamp, power amp, speaker
 and 24-hour timer which can be programmed to start and stop the music
 program numerous times over a 24-hour period.  This one looks to be in
 complete and nice shape, too.  I have no financial interest in this item, 
 I
 just wanted it to find an appreciative buyer. Somebody here on this list
 should give it a good home. It's very rare to find one of these, never 
 mind
 in this kind of good condition.

   Greg Bogantz

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 Phono-L mailing list
 http://phono-l.oldcrank.org



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[Phono-L] Seeburg Home Library

2008-03-30 Thread Greg Bogantz
Hey guys, here's a rare opportunity to score one of the most unusual home 
phonographs ever made, the Seeburg Home Library:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Seeberg-Automatic-Record-Console_W0QQitemZ260223421468QQihZ016QQcategoryZ3283QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

  In case you don't know what it is, this is the first 78rpm version of the 
Seeburg Select-O-Matic record changer which was introduced as the M100A jukebox 
in 1948.  It is full intermix - you can use 10 and 12 inch records loaded in 
any order anywhere in the record magazine with automatic size selection by the 
mechanism.  The M100A offered 100 selections, whereas this version holds 100 
records for a total of 200 selections.  This mechanism was offered as the 
Seeburg Industrial/Commercial Music (SICM) system housed in a huge steel 
cabinet as well as this home version as shown in the wooden console.  This 
model includes the preamp, power amp, speaker and 24-hour timer which can be 
programmed to start and stop the music program numerous times over a 24-hour 
period.  This one looks to be in complete and nice shape, too.  I have no 
financial interest in this item, I just wanted it to find an appreciative 
buyer. Somebody here on this list should give it a good home. It's very rare to 
find one of these, never mind in this kind of good condition. 

  Greg Bogantz
 
From taediso...@aol.com  Sun Mar 30 15:17:18 2008
From: taediso...@aol.com (taediso...@aol.com)
Date: Sun Mar 30 15:17:29 2008
Subject: [Phono-L] Fw: EARLIEST recorded human voice?
Message-ID: cca.2ae52da2.35216...@aol.com

 
In a message dated 3/30/2008 12:27:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
allena...@aol.com writes:

But who  managed to extract the sound from this phonautographic  tracing at 
the  ENHS? Was it done at the Site (prior to Scott/Paris)?  And  what was  the 
actual date in 1878 for the MERR?




 
The scans were made by Jerry Fabris and David Giovannoni at the Edison Site  
late last October. The sound was recovered by Earl Cornell and Carl Haber at 
the  Lawrence Berkeley National Lab at UC Berkeley, just like the Scott 
recordings.  We started out with the Edison phonautograms because they were the 
most  
immediately accessible, and they quickly allowed Earl and Carl to determine 
how  viable this project would be as well as how to go about reprogramming 
their  existing equipment to work effectively with phonautograms. There are 
many 
more  Edison phonautograms to be deciphered, but that particular project was 
put on  hold when the Scott phonautograms came to light, thanks to Patrick 
Feaster's  research.
 
The short Edison sound file that has been recovered, and posted at  
firstsounds.org, was made on September 19, 1878, one of the last  phonautograms 
Edison 
and Batchelor did for the MERR. Handwritten notations on  the sheet indicate 
the points at which test (vocal) calibrations were made, and  where the sound 
of the train begins and ends. When I first wrote about these  phonautograms in 
my book Tinfoil Phonographs in 2001 I commented on how  exciting it would be 
to hear the actual ambient street noise of a vanished New  York if these 
could be played. Well, that was a bit overly optimistic, at least  as regards 
this 
particular sheet. What we hear is not even the clicking and  clacking of 
train wheels over the ties. It is probably the harmonic  vibration of the 
braces 
and girders. Edison wrote about this in his notes on  July 3, 1878: We find 
that the lattice girders some of which are weighted in  middle acts as reeds 
and 
continue the vibration for a long time after the train  has passed . . . We 
find that the diagonal cross rods vibrate  strongly. 
 
Further work will be done on this recording as well as the remaining Edison  
phonautograms, and there's hope that more clarity can be extracted from the 
fog.  It's very probable that other recordings may have recognizable sounds of 
a 
train  passing over rails, as well as (we hope) recognizable human voices. 
This is  just the beginning, we were under a tight deadline to have as much as 
possible  in time for the already planned presentations at the ARSC conference 
last  Friday. The existence of the Au Clair de la Lune recording was only 
discovered  on Feburary 29th of this year, so you can see how little time there 
has been to  pursue this. There will be much more to come, and hopefully more 
eureka  moments.
 
Best regards,
Rene Rondeau



**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.  
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15ncid=aolhom000301)
From allena...@aol.com  Sun Mar 30 15:39:16 2008
From: allena...@aol.com (allena...@aol.com)
Date: Sun Mar 30 15:39:33 2008
Subject: [Phono-L] Fw: EARLIEST recorded human voice?/thx
Message-ID: cb6.27dea3d2.35217...@aol.com

 
In a message dated 3/30/2008 6:19:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
taediso...@aol.com writes

[Phono-L] Researchers Play Tune Recorded Before Edison

2008-03-27 Thread Greg Bogantz
The sound clip link, together with a clip from a 1931 recording of the 
same selection is available on this NY Times link already cited.  Look for 
them on the left side of the page.

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Daniel Melvin d...@old-phonographs.com
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Researchers Play Tune Recorded Before Edison


I thought one day someone would figure out how to do this. It's pretty 
cool.

 Has anyone found the link on the NY Times site with the sound clip?

 Dan

 On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 11:11 AM, Loran Hughes lo...@oldcrank.com wrote:

 http://tinyurl.com/36z5cj

 Loran
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[Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12

2008-03-26 Thread Greg Bogantz
Doug, have you got a PAIR of Patricians?  You're only the second guy 
I've heard of to own them.  For those who don't know what these are, they 
were 4-way HUGE loudspeaker systems that employed a 30-inch!  woofer in a 
corner-horn enclosure that was vastly efficient.  My friend who had them in 
his basement could blow the windows out of the house with about 8 watts of 
audio per each.  Needless to say, he liked to play pipe organ music.  LOUD 
:o)

Greg Bogantz



- Original Message - 
From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12


 Thanks, Albert. I have one of those amplifiers, and I plan on re-capping
 it. I worked in a radio store when I was a kid, and they had a record
 counter. The audition amplifier was one of that model and, as you said, it
 sounded good.  Speaking in general terms, frequency response in Juke boxes
 was strongly peaked in the low end. The customers loved it, and I'm sure
 that the restaurant owners had the treble turned all the way to full cut.
 Anyway, that amp will probably sound good with a preamp, such as a Fisher
 80 nseries feeding it. I have a feeling that it's  better than commonly
 thought. It's all about the transformers in it.

 Some time, immediately after the war, the Harmonicats did Peg Of My 
 Heart
 on the VitaCoustic label. The record began with four notes, then a deep
 bass string. Whatever the jukebox in that place was, that bass note almost
 knocked stuff off the walls. It was in a neighborhood soda shop where us
 kids congregated.  I played that selection lots of times. I do have the
 disc somewhere, and if I can find it, I'd like to play it on my E-V
 Patricians some time. It'll probably crack plaster!


 [Original Message]
 From: Albert cen...@comcast.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Date: 3/26/2008 1:24:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12

 No actually most WurliTzer amps after 1937 are painted red with the
 exception of the W-800 which was gold and the counter models which also
 were
 gold.   Yes the P12 and the 412 used the gold amps with the 45 tubes.
 They
 really sound good considering the technology at the time.  I had Jukebox
 Friday night restore the amp on my 412 and it is awsome.  Funny you
 mentioned I had a mills for many years, I just loved watching the ferris
 wheel mech.  I did however install an Astatic 51-2 cartridge and removed
 the
 weight from the head.  It didnt look as good, but at least I was able to
 play my Rhino records (reproduction 78's)
 - Original Message - 
 From: Douglas Houston cdh...@earthlink.net
 To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
 Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:13 AM
 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12


  Albert;
 
  Could you tell me which Wurlitzer  box  used the  amplifier that had a
 45
  driving puish-pull 45's power amps? The chassis was painted gold
 (as
  probably all  Wurlitzers   were).
 
  I was was amused at your  description of going through grooves like a
  plow. When I was a kid, one of my friends' family had a Mills DoReMi
 in
  their dining room. Rather unconventional place for it, but that's where
 it
  was. Now, talk about a record plow!  The player had a Webster-Racine
  horseshoe magnetic pickup and the stylus pressure must have weighed in
 at
  pounds.  Sure as shootin', I'd never have put any of my records on that
  thing. Lord, what a shellac grinder that thing was!
 
  But it had a really neat amplifier. Push-Pull 2A3's.
 
 
  [Original Message]
  From: Albert cen...@comcast.net
  To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org
  Date: 3/25/2008 10:32:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12
 
  The P-12 is a great early Jukebox.  The only thing you will need to do
 is
  lighten the tone arm and install a modern cartridge.  This will enable
  you
  play your 78s without going through the grooves like a plow.  If it
 has
  the
  original amplifier you will find it has a very smooth tone with great
  fidelity and volume.  Subscribe to Always Jukin' There are hundreds of
  dealers and jukebox enthusiasts out there.  It is my passion.  I have
 13
  pre
  war Wurlitzers and well as Seeburgs and Rockolas.  My best source for
  Parts
  is Musical fun for everyone  Bill Butterfield in Napa California. 
  Al
  Menashe
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ken and Brenda Brekke kb...@charter.net
  To: 'Antique Phonograph List' phono-l@oldcrank.org
  Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:01 PM
  Subject: [Phono-L] Wurlitzer P-12
 
 
  I recently was able to purchase a 1934 Wurlitzer P-12 jukebox.  Can
  anyone
   on this list refer me to where I can purchase any service manuals or
   parts?
   Thanks in advance,   Ken B.
  
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