Re: [Repeater-Builder] Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW)
These comments were all VERY good advice Gary. I would add some other comments to theirs... When people here say good equipment we mean it. Ask someone in the area who already has a repeater at a pay site what their lease says about it, many specify very specific gear required that many hams don't think about at all. (Isolators, lightning protection to match the site's system design, etc.) Your gear SHOULD look better installed, cleaner, and well kept compared to the other tenants. Remember, you are setting that site owner's expectations of how ALL hams do things, because they just know you as ham radio. Sites can be forever lost to hams by one dork putting in some crappy pile of mobiles with cables running everywhere on a shelf in a cabinet that looks like something the dog threw up, or would throw up on and running crap coax up the tower, leaving it banging in the wind, and a ham-grade antenna that's causing passive intermod in all of its joints. As someone said, you tick off the wrong person at a commercial site, and you're doing stupid things, you've just become a liability and a risk they could lose their meal ticket -- you'll be gone so fast you'll be looking for your gear they left sitting outside on the sidewalk. Build to commercial standards. If a ham has a great site and you look at it and it has some limitation where you can't build the machine properly, thank them kindly and move on. If some ham says he can run RG-8X up to his roof and set you up with a great repeater site... run away. Or talk to them about what you'll REALLY be installing and see if they're still interested in playing. There *are* commercial sites that aren't hideously expensive, but they're often lesser undesireable sites for things like celluar and other high dollar customers. Look around for low towers with big buildings and few antennas. If the site covers where you want to cover, start the hunt to find the owner. They MIGHT be LOOKING for tenants after getting into a tower deal thinking the cell companies would come to them, and the cell companies put up a flagpole tower two blocks down at some other business. It takes a while to spot these things, and frankly... a lot of times they're empty because the owner is an A**. You just don't know. The comments about community are important. One of our sites is a long-standing relationship with a fire department. Besides that site, three other sites are commercial sites, all of which are lower than commercial cost, but not free. Sometimes it pays to just help a ham put up a tower in his backyard. (I don't know them, but friends have told me that this is exactly how and why a group in Kansas City known as the BYRG (BackYard Repeater Group) got their start. A bunch of guys put repeaters up at houses on hills, and got on with it. Finally, my personal comment I always make to anyone interested in repeaters... ALWAYS look around for a small group that ALREADY EXISTS and has sites. Frankly, I have never met a repeater group leadership person who has ever complained that they had TOO MANY *QUALIFIED* repeater maintenance and building helpers. Find out who REALLY works on the repeaters -- sometimes the clubs just aren't set up right to put you in touch with them, and start tagging along. Spend some time learning what their strengths and weaknesses are. Get plugged into the local repeater-building community. In most cities, other than the densely-populated coastal mega-metropolis areas, if you really counted up all the people who have turned a wrench on the local repeater systems, you'll find a LOT of overlap, a LOT of egos (ha... yeah, for some reason... it's only true...), and you can probably count them all on two hands... maybe adding a toe or two. A person willing to work, learn, and who doesn't annoy the CRAP out of the busy guys or gals working on the existing systems, will often become (over time) an invaluable asset to the organization(s) they work with, and will one day find themselves standing there going, Hey wait... how did I get THIS job?, as they become the mentor. Soo many hams are unteachable not because they're dumb, or can't learn technical things -- it's because they have to DO IT MY WAY. That's fine, but more gets done if even a FEW of these people can overcome whatever differences of opinion they have and work together building a system. It's also a lot of fun when it cranks up into high gear for a big project, which is often when new people either show their stuff, or don't run with the big dogs... just like anything else in life. Ever walk into a company, say you know everything and everyone's going to do it your way, and not have your co-workers not laugh at you, and/ or ask the boss why he hired you? The real repeater building community is pretty darn small. And is also pretty darn helpful.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (use the COR-2 circuit)
On Apr 22, 2008, at 12:25 PM, skipp025 wrote: The 555 is one of the most useful electronic circuit chips ever made. It has a fairly large number of possible simply configured mono astable (cycle) circuit operations. And it's just as easy to get lost when trying to use it for specific tasks. Additionally along the do-it-yourself lines... Taking a small amount of additional time to learn how to program a microcontroller like a Microchip PIC or an Atmel AVR, and you no longer have any of the limitations of a 555. (Of which there aren't many, but... still.) Virtually every piece of consumer electronics moved to these highly useful little chips 10 years ago. They're also everywhere in your car (in specialized hardened varieties... automotive electrical systems are hard on computer hardware), etc. Learning them will lead to other more advanced projects later on. And implementing a timer in one, is barely a medium-beginner stage. Most manufacturers provide sample code to blink an LED and if you can figure that timing loop out, modify it and play with it a little bit, you're about 30 minutes to an hour away (as a new beginner) from a working timer circuit that will do whatever timing you want... you type in the instructions, and the chip does it. You apply some very basic electronics to that to perhaps drive a transistor as a switch so you can sink or source more current than the microcontroller can handle a LOT of current anyway) and learn the joy of bypass capacitors to keep RF in/out of your circuit (since you're using the thing around radios!), and you're done. Don't like the timing? Plug your $39 programmer back into the circuit and put a different timing value in the software running in the chip. I wouldn't say it's always more flexible than something like the 555, because a guru can make a 555 do things it never should have. But it's a lot easier to get your head around if you have any kind of computer background, especially a little computer programming experience! Not to mention, fun! -- Nate Duehr, WY0X [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Info Wanted: RE: Motorola Channel Elements parts
There IS an article about temperature compensating channel elements on r-b. Go to the Technical Information section and search for Why should you really spend $50 to re-crystal a channel element or ICOM? While the method you describe will get the crystal to operate on-frequency at room temperature, it won't deal with temperature compensation or aging, which could be vital depending on the location of the equipment. Many repeaters are at commercial sites and having your equipment put out clean, on-frequency, properly deviated signals, is the responsible thing to do. If the site is only accessible part of the year, you don't want to be constantly going up there to re-net the channel elements. Bob M. == --- kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I posted on this subject awhile back. Do a search on posts by my user name. Basically, there are two caps towards the edge of the circuit board (opposite of the trimmer/socket end) that vary anywhere from 5- 33pf. Install the crystal, then play with the value of these two caps. I have found that I usally need to reduce the capacitance a little, and the crystals net right on. I've never had to change an inductor. Pick up the small capacitor assortment that Radio Shack sells - it has about 50 caps in the 5-33pf range. I use them all the time to replace the original caps in the elements. Before you start changing the caps, first install the crystal and fire it up, and while watching your frequency counter or service monitor, set the warp trimmer to midpoint (halfway between the lowest and highest freq settings possible). Then start playing with the capacitor value until the crystal is as close to your desired frequency as possible. This simple step will ensure that you can adjust the crystal adequately up or down as needed in the future, as well as the initial setup. If the capacitor swap gets you within 2Khz or so, the trimmer should have enough pull to net you on center frequency. If I recall, the capacitor in question is usually red, and while holding the element component-side up and plug-in end towards you, the cap is to the far left corner. Speaking of elements, I need to call Bomar tomorrow - a one-year old 440MHz repeater crystal decided over the weekend to jump 25Khz high - right onto the input of another repeater! Same PL no less! (Here in the NE every other 25KHz pair flips low-in hi-out and vice versa) I think someone was going to take my original post about compensating elements and place it on repeater-builder, but I never noticed it there. Hopefully it will save others some money. It always amazed me that guys would embark on a large project building, wiring, and tuning a repeater, but the simple task of re-crystalling and netting elements always seemed to be intimidating. Most likely due to lack of info being published on the subject. Eric KE2D --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, w4dg.geo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently ordered TX and RX crystals from ICM for the MICOR RT Station. I specified the correct FC and FX and catalog # 167380 for MOT KNX1018C TX (132-174). When these crystals were received they would not net on frequency. The TX was over 20Khz. high and would not net any closer. I notified ICM and their Customer Service Dept., agreed to replace the TX crystal. When I received this replacement crystal, it was over 30Khz. high! I sent another email and got a reply from the owner, Royden Freeland, W5EMH, stating the following: To get the crystal to tune properly you will need to change L1 to 2.6-2.7uh and C6 to 1-10 pf depending on the crystal to get it on frequency at close to center trim. Each element was compensated and tuned for the original crystal so if you are changing frequency very far there can be problems. Motorola generally used a crystal load of 32pf in elements with trimmers and varied components within the element to bring it on frequency. ICM will be happy to install the crystal and compensate the element if you would prefer. We would charge $60.00 to install and compensate your element and crystal. I have printed out the channel element schmetic and picture (from W3KCC) repeater-Builders website and see that C6 is the trimmer and L1, but no values are represented. Can anyone tell me what the current value of the inductor L1 is? If it's currently higher in value, can it be rewound for the 2.7uH inductance ICM references? I believe there is enough room to insert a fixed cap of proper C in series to drop the tuning range of the C6, to perhaps the 1-10pf. I have looked at Mouser Electronics for a trimmer 1- 10pf and 2.7uH axil-lead inductor, L1without success. If they are available, can you please stear me to where I can purchase one or both? I always thought
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (use the COR-2 circuit)
Nate, You are so right about using a MPU for basic functions like replacing a 555. If one learns the basics of a MPU in what would be a 555 application, this same technology can be applied to many other applications...just change the software and maybe add a I/O buffer. In one MPU one can make many 555 circuits if needed. Also consider having switches controlling inputs to select a number of timing arrangements including pulse width and on/off timin, etc. Once one learns a MPU application rebuilding the same circuit to do something else is so easy...pecking on a keyboard writing software. In a 555 one has to practically redue the circuit. This is one reason software has so influenced technology...it is easy and powerful. A software driven circuit can be made to make decisions based on inputs, timers, etc. I still use some hardware for some functions. MPUs and computers fail, and often fail because they get glitched and blown out of the program. Still all the components are fine, just not working. Often a hardware approach like the 555 does not have this problem. Failure recovery of a computer is another issue that requires lots of thinking. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu AM 03:44:53 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (use the COR-2 circuit) On Apr 22, 2008, at 12:25 PM, skipp025 wrote: The 555 is one of the most useful electronic circuit chips ever made. It has a fairly large number of possible simply configured mono astable (cycle) circuit operations. And it's just as easy to get lost when trying to use it for specific tasks. Additionally along the do-it-yourself lines... Taking a small amount of additional time to learn how to program a microcontroller like a Microchip PIC or an Atmel AVR, and you no longer have any of the limitations of a 555. (Of which there aren't many, but... still.) Virtually every piece of consumer electronics moved to these highly useful little chips 10 years ago. They're also everywhere in your car (in specialized hardened varieties... automotive electrical systems are hard on computer hardware), etc. Learning them will lead to other more advanced projects later on. And implementing a timer in one, is barely a medium-beginner stage. Most manufacturers provide sample code to blink an LED and if you can figure that timing loop out, modify it and play with it a little bit, you're about 30 minutes to an hour away (as a new beginner) from a working timer circuit that will do whatever timing you want... you type in the instructions, and the chip does it. You apply some very basic electronics to that to perhaps drive a transistor as a switch so you can sink or source more current than the microcontroller can handle a LOT of current anyway) and learn the joy of bypass capacitors to keep RF in/out of your circuit (since you're using the thing around radios!), and you're done. Don't like the timing? Plug your $39 programmer back into the circuit and put a different timing value in the software running in the chip. I wouldn't say it's always more flexible than something like the 555, because a guru can make a 555 do things it never should have. But it's a lot easier to get your head around if you have any kind of computer background, especially a little computer programming experience! Not to mention, fun! -- Nate Duehr, WY0X [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW)
Nate, When you get going you go a lot :) All good advice. Most repeaters are a valuable properity for free. One needs to take the approach beggers cannot be choosers. On the equipment it is so easy and inexpensive to pick up a GE or Mot rig for a repeater it makes little sense to use a Ham rig that RF wise is so much less of an RF package. Same goes for the other stuff like antennas, feedline, connectors, etc. The old saying if you don't have time to do it right the first time when will you have the time to make it right?. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu AM 03:26:13 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW) These comments were all VERY good advice Gary. I would add some other comments to theirs... When people here say good equipment we mean it. Ask someone in the area who already has a repeater at a pay site what their lease says about it, many specify very specific gear required that many hams don't think about at all. (Isolators, lightning protection to match the site's system design, etc.) Your gear SHOULD look better installed, cleaner, and well kept compared to the other tenants. Remember, you are setting that site owner's expectations of how ALL hams do things, because they just know you as ham radio. Sites can be forever lost to hams by one dork putting in some crappy pile of mobiles with cables running everywhere on a shelf in a cabinet that looks like something the dog threw up, or would throw up on and running crap coax up the tower, leaving it banging in the wind, and a ham-grade antenna that's causing passive intermod in all of its joints. As someone said, you tick off the wrong person at a commercial site, and you're doing stupid things, you've just become a liability and a risk they could lose their meal ticket -- you'll be gone so fast you'll be looking for your gear they left sitting outside on the sidewalk. Build to commercial standards. If a ham has a great site and you look at it and it has some limitation where you can't build the machine properly, thank them kindly and move on. If some ham says he can run RG-8X up to his roof and set you up with a great repeater site... run away. Or talk to them about what you'll REALLY be installing and see if they're still interested in playing. There *are* commercial sites that aren't hideously expensive, but they're often lesser undesireable sites for things like celluar and other high dollar customers. Look around for low towers with big buildings and few antennas. If the site covers where you want to cover, start the hunt to find the owner. They MIGHT be LOOKING for tenants after getting into a tower deal thinking the cell companies would come to them, and the cell companies put up a flagpole tower two blocks down at some other business. It takes a while to spot these things, and frankly... a lot of times they're empty because the owner is an A**. You just don't know. The comments about community are important. One of our sites is a long-standing relationship with a fire department. Besides that site, three other sites are commercial sites, all of which are lower than commercial cost, but not free. Sometimes it pays to just help a ham put up a tower in his backyard. (I don't know them, but friends have told me that this is exactly how and why a group in Kansas City known as the BYRG (BackYard Repeater Group) got their start. A bunch of guys put repeaters up at houses on hills, and got on with it. Finally, my personal comment I always make to anyone interested in repeaters... ALWAYS look around for a small group that ALREADY EXISTS and has sites. Frankly, I have never met a repeater group leadership person who has ever complained that they had TOO MANY *QUALIFIED* repeater maintenance and building helpers. Find out who REALLY works on the repeaters -- sometimes the clubs just aren't set up right to put you in touch with them, and start tagging along. Spend some time learning what their strengths and weaknesses are. Get plugged into the local repeater-building community. In most cities, other than the densely-populated coastal mega-metropolis areas, if you really counted up all the people who have turned a wrench on the local repeater systems, you'll find a LOT of overlap, a LOT of egos (ha... yeah, for some reason... it's only true...), and you can probably count them all on two hands... maybe adding a toe or two. A person willing to work, learn, and who doesn't annoy the CRAP out of the busy guys or gals working on the existing systems, will often become (over time) an invaluable asset to the organization(s) they work with, and will one day find themselves standing there going, Hey wait... how did I get THIS job?, as they become the mentor. Soo many hams are
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Info Wanted: RE: Motorola Channel Elements parts
Eric, I am having a netting problem with a Micor rcv ch ele now. Used same ele as in the original at 155 MHz, replaced crystal with 147 MHz, but best it can do is 10 kHz low in freq. Know 155 range Micor different from 147, but think they use same ch ele, but maybe with slightly different component values I guess. Not sure. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 11:46:03 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Info Wanted: RE: Motorola Channel Elements parts I posted on this subject awhile back. Do a search on posts by my user name. Basically, there are two caps towards the edge of the circuit board (opposite of the trimmer/socket end) that vary anywhere from 5- 33pf. Install the crystal, then play with the value of these two caps. I have found that I usally need to reduce the capacitance a little, and the crystals net right on. I've never had to change an inductor. Pick up the small capacitor assortment that Radio Shack sells - it has about 50 caps in the 5-33pf range. I use them all the time to replace the original caps in the elements. Before you start changing the caps, first install the crystal and fire it up, and while watching your frequency counter or service monitor, set the warp trimmer to midpoint (halfway between the lowest and highest freq settings possible). Then start playing with the capacitor value until the crystal is as close to your desired frequency as possible. This simple step will ensure that you can adjust the crystal adequately up or down as needed in the future, as well as the initial setup. If the capacitor swap gets you within 2Khz or so, the trimmer should have enough pull to net you on center frequency. If I recall, the capacitor in question is usually red, and while holding the element component-side up and plug-in end towards you, the cap is to the far left corner. Speaking of elements, I need to call Bomar tomorrow - a one-year old 440MHz repeater crystal decided over the weekend to jump 25Khz high - right onto the input of another repeater! Same PL no less! (Here in the NE every other 25KHz pair flips low-in hi-out and vice versa) I think someone was going to take my original post about compensating elements and place it on repeater-builder, but I never noticed it there. Hopefully it will save others some money. It always amazed me that guys would embark on a large project building, wiring, and tuning a repeater, but the simple task of re-crystalling and netting elements always seemed to be intimidating. Most likely due to lack of info being published on the subject. Eric KE2D --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, w4dg.geo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently ordered TX and RX crystals from ICM for the MICOR RT Station. I specified the correct FC and FX and catalog # 167380 for MOT KNX1018C TX (132-174). When these crystals were received they would not net on frequency. The TX was over 20Khz. high and would not net any closer. I notified ICM and their Customer Service Dept., agreed to replace the TX crystal. When I received this replacement crystal, it was over 30Khz. high! I sent another email and got a reply from the owner, Royden Freeland, W5EMH, stating the following: To get the crystal to tune properly you will need to change L1 to 2.6-2.7uh and C6 to 1-10 pf depending on the crystal to get it on frequency at close to center trim. Each element was compensated and tuned for the original crystal so if you are changing frequency very far there can be problems. Motorola generally used a crystal load of 32pf in elements with trimmers and varied components within the element to bring it on frequency. ICM will be happy to install the crystal and compensate the element if you would prefer. We would charge $60.00 to install and compensate your element and crystal. I have printed out the channel element schmetic and picture (from W3KCC) repeater-Builders website and see that C6 is the trimmer and L1, but no values are represented. Can anyone tell me what the current value of the inductor L1 is? If it's currently higher in value, can it be rewound for the 2.7uH inductance ICM references? I believe there is enough room to insert a fixed cap of proper C in series to drop the tuning range of the C6, to perhaps the 1-10pf. I have looked at Mouser Electronics for a trimmer 1- 10pf and 2.7uH axil-lead inductor, L1without success. If they are available, can you please stear me to where I can purchase one or both? I always thought that you sent ICOM's back for temperature compensation and not for simple exchance of crystals. I have never needed to to that with any GE MASTR series TX RX or Mocom 70 series or any EF Johnson series that simply required new crystals. But again, that was 20 years ago, which is a long time. Any advice would be appreciated as I don't need to
Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Wayne, One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined or for other applications needing a spice. Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable also. 73, ron, nn9ee/r From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good parts. The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut many things down. I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made for use with. Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits through the gland nut... I should post a few part nubers and brands later. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who manufactured the item. In this case: AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS ONE KENNEDY AVENUE DANBURY, CT 06810 Cage Code: 74868 Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 It is a marked Amphenol connector. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 jumper. Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to be good quality. No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the other, so should be good to go. Wayne WA2YNE -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
There have been a number of cases where a store or home owner wired a booby trap and someone got injured. Outlawing this is the law in many states. It is mainly due to the intruder might be a family member or fireman, etc trying to get in for good reasons. I would think it best for any prosecution that it depends on what actually happened, but then again often one does not want someone putting in these devices. Maybe use a lower voltage such as from a animal electric fence. Know would prefer to fry the intruder. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 09:54:47 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft There was a guy in the area near here who owned a bar... The bar was burglarized repeatedly, so the owner wired the window bars to 220V. Needless to say, when Mr. Burglar came back again, he was found the next day - still in the window. The family successfully sued, and the local prosecutor tried to prosecute the owner for reckless conduct... unsuccessfully, but the guy still has the arrest on his record. Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of MCH Well, how about feeding 220 (and I'm not talking the MHz variety) through a piece of Heliax to feed something on the tower like a light? (or even as an unterminated open circuit) That way, when the cut through it with the rest, SURPRISE! The guy who was stealing the cable will be the body attached to the cut pieces. I know excessive force. But, if it's feeding the light, is it excessive? Wrap it with tape that says warning - dangerous voltage. Joe M. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I started to think this was a weapon list. Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you also if someone tampered with it. Rob - KS4EC From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dmurman%40verizon.net wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, support groups and a lot more. SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING www.JFCSonline.com Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses. Please update your contacts ASAP. NOTICE: This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the addressee and may contain legally privileged and confidential information. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or other use of this message or its attachments
RE: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Ron and Wayne, I have several of those splice connections from a job where I got to remove old Heliax on top of a building. They make them to go from the same size cable to others also. If you have 1 5/8 Heliax you can convert to 7/8 or 1/2 inch but be warned, they may be expensive. They are much better than going through a regular N connector. I still have all of them that I took down, just have never needed them on my tower, yet. I have several 300 and 400 foot pieces of 1 5/8 Andrew Heliax that I may have to splice together to get to the height I need. So far, I have yet to buy anything new in the way of Heliax for my tower except the snap-in hangers. Grin, I am cheep. Paul _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:55 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Wayne, One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined or for other applications needing a spice. Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable also. 73, ron, nn9ee/r From: Wayne HYPERLINK mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT To: HYPERLINK mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] m Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good parts. The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut many things down. I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made for use with. Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits through the gland nut... I should post a few part nubers and brands later. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV HYPERLINK mailto:glennmaillist%40bellsouth.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who manufactured the item. In this case: AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS ONE KENNEDY AVENUE DANBURY, CT 06810 Cage Code: 74868 Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 It is a marked Amphenol connector. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 jumper. Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to be good quality. No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the other, so should be good to go. Wayne WA2YNE -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: HYPERLINK http://www.opera.com/mail/http://www.opera.-com/mail/ --- Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.3/1392 - Release Date: 4/22/2008 3:51 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.3/1392 - Release Date: 4/22/2008 3:51 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (use the COR-2 circuit)
Skip, The LM324 has many good features for low level requirements. High offset voltage (2 typ, 7 max, always design to max) and cross over distortion has always been an problem with much of what I do. It having 4 in a package is a plus and it has its place. I should not say it, but I would not use Hamtronics as a source for design although I've been amazed at some things they do, hi. I would not use 324 for audio, but there are other applications. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/23 Wed AM 10:17:17 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (use the COR-2 circuit) The 555 is dedicated as a timing device. When you work with it for any amount of time you come to realize the design and layout is very practical and the chip is now considered an industry work-horse. But it can be used in linear applications... so never say never. The LM324 is a quad op-amp and one of the poor ones. About the only advantage is 4 in one package. When is good enough, good enough? Internally frequency compensated for unity gain Large DC voltage gain 100 dB Wide bandwidth (unity gain) 1 MHz (temperature compensated) Wide power supply range: Single supply 3V to 32V or dual supplies ±1.5V to ±16V Very low supply current drain (700 µA)-essentially independent of supply voltage Low input biasing current 45 nA (temperature compensated) Low input offset voltage 2 mV and offset current: 5 nA Input common-mode voltage range includes ground Differential input voltage range equal to the power supply voltage Large output voltage swing 0V to V+ - 1.5V Another well known industry work-horse chip. Sometimes you might not want a high performance chip in the drivers seat. There are many cases where higher spec parts can work to well. As for use as a timer the 324 needs lots of glue to make it work. Not saying don't use it, but for a timing device the 555 is made for this with lots of flexibility. Sure the 555 is an industry standard timer chip, but an op amp section can easily be made into a timer function without much work. The Hamtronics COR-3 circuit is a perfect example of where one chip does both functions very well. If you want a op-amp I prefer the LF353 for audio and the LM358 has the rail-to-rail service and is better than a 324. If one wants to get nit picky over chips... I've got page lists of better audio chip data sheets. But the 324 is more than good enough for many tasks. A big plus is the cost per package makes it a great dollar value. I once had to rework a simple op-amp design using the LM-3900 Norton chip because it was the only animal that didn't immediately go crazy at the mega watt rf-environment location. Sometimes dumb, stupid and lower performance chips are the more practical or cost effective answer. However, cost per pacakge most often seems to be the person in the drivers seat making really large quantity chip purchases. cheers, s. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] timer???
Ted, With me in the Tampa Florida with the Rays I have to look for another team and always enjoy the Cubs. Guess from my Cincinnati days with the Reds. Would go to game with Cubs and seems more Cub fans there than Reds. Of course this was in an off season for the Reds which they have had a number in recent times. From Lou Pinalla coming here after taking Reds to World Series in 1990 had hope for Rays, but that died quickly. Then he goes somewhere else and they are winning. Same story with Bucs. I like the White Sox also. Now bet you hate me, hi. To keep it repeater related wonder if Cubs have a repeater? 73, ron, n9ee/r From: Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/23 Wed AM 09:54:54 CDT To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] timer??? it is my humble opinion that all that is required is a time delay relay, probably somone has already mentioned this but i don't mind being redundundundant, that starts a 1 -2 minute cycle to turn on after shut down. seems simple enuf. no fancy timer curcuits and stuph like that there. they are not expensive, a huge consideration here abouts, and readily available from almost everywhere or possibly anywhere. have a fun day the CUBS are winning , swept the METS, and all is right with the world for now... Ted Bleiman K9MDM MDM Radio If its in stock...we've got it! P O Box 31353 Chicago, IL 60631-0353 773.631.5130 fax 773.775.8096 web http://www.mdmradio.com -email - [EMAIL PROTECTED] DIRECT ALL EMAIL __ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Wayne If you use the N male female splice you might want to look at how much flexing the cable will get. If this cable is 7/8 inch then the flex on the joint can be catastrophic, especially if it is somewhere on a tower. I would suggest a pair of EIA flanges to make a good mechanically strong splice. Andrew part numbers are L45R Ralph - Original Message - From: Ron Wrightmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.commailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 8:54 AM Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Wayne, One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined or for other applications needing a spice. Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable also. 73, ron, nn9ee/r From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.commailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good parts. The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut many things down. I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made for use with. Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits through the gland nut... I should post a few part nubers and brands later. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:glennmaillist%40bellsouth.net wrote: The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who manufactured the item. In this case: AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS ONE KENNEDY AVENUE DANBURY, CT 06810 Cage Code: 74868 Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 It is a marked Amphenol connector. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 jumper. Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to be good quality. No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the other, so should be good to go. Wayne WA2YNE -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
- Original Message - From: Pat Hartleymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Wanda Bowenmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Wandamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Tracymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Steve Greenemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Sharonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Rosa Jaymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Ralph Messermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; pope armstrongmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Milliemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Lindamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Lesmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Kimmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Judymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; JJmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jimmymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jerry Jenmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jerrymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jackmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Hazelmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Genemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Dianamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Dannymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Crystalmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Claymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Clarencemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Claramailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Cherylmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Butchmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Brucemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Billmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Betty Jessmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10:14 AM Subject: Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 5:28 PM Subject: Fwd: Thank You, Lord From: Jimmie Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Cameron Hubbard [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Cathy Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Jacci Talbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], John Orck [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Lori Nelson [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Marilyn Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Nancy Martin [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Nina Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Rita Brindle' [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Speranza Crane' [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Susan Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Suzy Bigbie [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED], Traci Shealey [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thank You, Lord Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 10:13:45 -0400 Jimmie H. Hughes Director of Marketing The Hughes Companies, Inc. P.O. Box 499, Cumming, Ga, 30028 Office: (770) 887-0123 | Fax: (770) 889-6487 Email: mailto:[EMAIL
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW)
I bought my own as well. $500 for a one acre tract at 3000' (1000 ft HAAT). It was a ex-American Electric Power microwave relay site. Right now it's sitting empty except for the old transmitter building and antenna masts. I would really like to use it for a repeater (or a weekend getaway cabin) one day, but security concerns (like those in the Copper Theft thread) have left me wary--I'm 45 minutes away. I've also marketed it to cell and tower companies over the last couple of years with no real nibbles. The local birding club does use it seasonally for hawk counts, but I don't think they even know that I own it. Maybe if I could get a solar panel, one of those monster Union Switch and Signal cabinets like the railroads use, and an ATV to haul it up the mountain I might have a go of it. It only costs $42 in property taxes per year, so I'm not really concerned. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would have to agree with Ron. My solution was to buy a site. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:00 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW) Gary, Tower or repeater sites are gold today with the influx of cell phones where a provider will pay $20k/yr for a single site. Also, the insurance influences a tower owner for the more he/she has the higher the insurance. Also, few tower owners want to bother with a non-paying customer. Again tower space is gold these days. I have found one needs someone on the inside. Contact your local EOC, not the police or fire, but a department that handles disasters. Here in Florida all counties have large EOCs with money. They also have the power to get things installed above the other gov radio shop personnel. The EOCs know and respond to Ham Radio if they are convinced you can provide a service. This last issue is often hard to get together and maintain, but if done can be a plus for getting a site especially if it will not cost the county any money, only space. About all major sites, 200 ft+, here in my area have someone inside. A broadcast engineer or a Ham who can get the attention of the powers to be. My site was provided by a FM station where the Chief Engr was a devoted Ham. Got a site 1175 ft above ground and use of 1300 ft of 1-5/8 feedline sharing a UHF installation. You simply showing up with a dog and pony show will do little. You are often talking to someone who knows little about Ham Radio and really has many other issues to deal with. I know of few repeater owners in your position and it is like pulling teeth. Most tower owners will give you encouragement, but in the end do nothing to help. A repeater is a liability to a site owner, not an asset in their eyes. Definitively use the community service approach...ARES/RACES, Skywarn, public service. This goes a long way. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: garyp609 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/22 Tue PM 05:18:18 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Obtaining a Repeater Site (HOW) I hope this isn't off topic but I am hoping that someone can help. I am trying to secure a site for our repeater club in the Atlantic City, NJ area. Does anyone have any pointers on how to obtain a site. I have been getting a run around from most of the casinos and tower locations in the city. Nobody seems even remotely interested in giving us access. I showed and told them about the benefits of Ham Radio and the service we provide but it falls on deaf ears. Any help, suggestions or connections would be appreciated. 73's Gary K2ACY Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Info Wanted: RE: Motorola Channel Elements parts
I have about a dozen Micors on the air with the elements done this way, and they are all rock solid. Some sites go from below freezing to over 100F in the summer, and they stay right on. They've been running close to 10 yrs now. Other than changing caps, what else are they doing that makes their (ICM, etc) job that much better? Let's be honest - at today's labor rates, they can't be spending a whole heck of a lot of time on each element. I'm sure they just get it on frequency and send it out the door! --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There IS an article about temperature compensating channel elements on r-b. Go to the Technical Information section and search for Why should you really spend $50 to re-crystal a channel element or ICOM? While the method you describe will get the crystal to operate on-frequency at room temperature, it won't deal with temperature compensation or aging, which could be vital depending on the location of the equipment. Many repeaters are at commercial sites and having your equipment put out clean, on-frequency, properly deviated signals, is the responsible thing to do. If the site is only accessible part of the year, you don't want to be constantly going up there to re-net the channel elements. Bob M. == --- kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I posted on this subject awhile back. Do a search on posts by my user name. Basically, there are two caps towards the edge of the circuit board (opposite of the trimmer/socket end) that vary anywhere from 5- 33pf. Install the crystal, then play with the value of these two caps. I have found that I usally need to reduce the capacitance a little, and the crystals net right on. I've never had to change an inductor. Pick up the small capacitor assortment that Radio Shack sells - it has about 50 caps in the 5-33pf range. I use them all the time to replace the original caps in the elements. Before you start changing the caps, first install the crystal and fire it up, and while watching your frequency counter or service monitor, set the warp trimmer to midpoint (halfway between the lowest and highest freq settings possible). Then start playing with the capacitor value until the crystal is as close to your desired frequency as possible. This simple step will ensure that you can adjust the crystal adequately up or down as needed in the future, as well as the initial setup. If the capacitor swap gets you within 2Khz or so, the trimmer should have enough pull to net you on center frequency. If I recall, the capacitor in question is usually red, and while holding the element component-side up and plug-in end towards you, the cap is to the far left corner. Speaking of elements, I need to call Bomar tomorrow - a one-year old 440MHz repeater crystal decided over the weekend to jump 25Khz high - right onto the input of another repeater! Same PL no less! (Here in the NE every other 25KHz pair flips low-in hi-out and vice versa) I think someone was going to take my original post about compensating elements and place it on repeater-builder, but I never noticed it there. Hopefully it will save others some money. It always amazed me that guys would embark on a large project building, wiring, and tuning a repeater, but the simple task of re-crystalling and netting elements always seemed to be intimidating. Most likely due to lack of info being published on the subject. Eric KE2D --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, w4dg.geo w4dg@ wrote: I recently ordered TX and RX crystals from ICM for the MICOR RT Station. I specified the correct FC and FX and catalog # 167380 for MOT KNX1018C TX (132-174). When these crystals were received they would not net on frequency. The TX was over 20Khz. high and would not net any closer. I notified ICM and their Customer Service Dept., agreed to replace the TX crystal. When I received this replacement crystal, it was over 30Khz. high! I sent another email and got a reply from the owner, Royden Freeland, W5EMH, stating the following: To get the crystal to tune properly you will need to change L1 to 2.6-2.7uh and C6 to 1-10 pf depending on the crystal to get it on frequency at close to center trim. Each element was compensated and tuned for the original crystal so if you are changing frequency very far there can be problems. Motorola generally used a crystal load of 32pf in elements with trimmers and varied components within the element to bring it on frequency. ICM will be happy to install the crystal and compensate the element if you would prefer. We would charge $60.00 to install and compensate your element and crystal.
[Repeater-Builder] SpectraTac Housing - SMA Connector?
Hello All, I'm going to be removing a low band receiver board from a Spectratac housing and replacing it with a 900mhz receiver. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of an SMA connector that can be purchased and crimped on to the coax jumper in the housing? If I cut off the RCA connector there appears to be enough cable to crimp on an SMA in it's place. Thanks! Adam N2ACF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Carrier Control Timer (Kit Building 101)
Nothing wrong with using any good reference material you can find in any potential design. Many of the people on this group ask how they can best learn about repeater related electronic circuits and I can't think of an easier method than kit building a well done kit circuit. We can always pick the short comings out of most any applied circuit design and selected parts, including the later version micro processor repeater controller. One can't discount the education of hands on building a 555 Timer COR Control Circuit or porting the application toward an op amp design like the Hamtronics COR-3 circuit. Many companies trying to sell lots of a product are primarily driven to certain parts by unit cost. If the specified part does the same job for much less money... in it goes. I can easily use an LM-324 in a large number of applications and they're cheap. I can also find even cheaper parts that do the same job. Then of course I have some higher end $13 per package audio op-amps here. They of course will never see the inside of a repeater interface package. But radio communcations audio is not hi-fidelity, it need only be clear loud to the users ear. So far it hasn't been magic to make the LM-324 work fairly well in many general repeater circuit applicaiton. cheers, s. Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Skipp, The LM324 has many good features for low level requirements. High offset voltage (2 typ, 7 max, always design to max) and cross over distortion has always been an problem with much of what I do. It having 4 in a package is a plus and it has its place. I should not say it, but I would not use Hamtronics as a source for design although I've been amazed at some things they do, hi. I would not use 324 for audio, but there are other applications. 73, ron, n9ee/r
Re: [Repeater-Builder] spectra radio dead from ebay
I would recommend replacing all of the caps and inspecting all of the traces around the caps to ensure none have failed due to a leaking cap. After that I would see what you get for error codes and if fail 01/90 remains, get you hands on another spectra (bandsplit doesn't matter) and swap the common boards one at a time (make sure you write the correct codeplug into the radio to ensure that you do not get additional error codes) and see if you have a bad MLM or other common board. KA8YPY On Apr 23, 2008, at 10:25 PM, n9wys wrote: Here is a link to the error codes… http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/spectra/spectra-error-codes.html FAIL 01/90 is a general failure code… Not sure what may have caused that. However, there is a LOT of information to be had at www.Repeater-Builder.com … Good luck! Mark – N9WYS From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Mike mike Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 6:42 PM To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] spectra radio dead from ebay thanks mark it displays 01/90 code any motorola experts out there? i need board level help if it has bad custom ics then its a waste of time if the rest of the caps are baad then i will replace To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:16:03 -0500 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] spectra radio dead from ebay YES... Radio will not power up without it (ignition sense wire). Mark – N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of mikewm9v spectra radio dead from ebay want to fix this radio no display need schematics need to know if radio will power up without control head has front panel pcb has power in entire unit do i need ignition sense hooked up recapped display board and will recap other boards will sit down with other boards and scope out radio used but not too abused have mic also have extra wavetek 2000b monitor 15 years as bench tech for radio shack i did all the scanners and amateur radio equipment for them wm9v Spell a grand slam in this game where word skill meets World Series. Get in the game. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
Moderators, Why are we getting jokes on this list server? Isn’t there enough wasted bandwidth on the internet already? I am telling all my friends NOT to send me all kinds of that crap. Some attachments are 10Mb. Some people can’t get high speed internet because they live in the country and still use dial-up. How frustrated they must be. Does my frustrations show? You bet it is. 73 and thank you to all who do honour requests like this. Tony, VE3DWI _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Sent: April 24, 2008 10:39 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jay Rivenbark; justblonde0419; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Pat Hartley; Repeater-Builder; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; smesser33 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: Pat mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Hartley To: Wanda Bowen mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Wanda mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Tracy mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com ; Steve mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Greene ; Sharon mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Rosa mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jay ; Ralph Messer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; pope mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] armstrong ; Millie mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Linda mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Les mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Kim mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Judy mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; JJ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jimmy mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jerry mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jen ; Jerry mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jack mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Hazel mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Gene mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Diana mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Danny mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Crystal mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Clay mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Clarence mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Clara mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Cheryl mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Butch mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Bruce mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Bill mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Betty mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jess Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10:14 AM Subject: Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; crystalis4unc@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] knc.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; angie.mccord@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; hartley9444@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] aol.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ent.com; juliebedard@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] bellsouth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; budlinpenley@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] bellsouth.net; rosieandjay@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] hotmail.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; crystalis4unc@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; danielleb013@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; shoppnqueen@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ptmc.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; judyblue2001@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] .rr.com; donnamingusturner@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; Jean.Lovelace@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] interstategroup.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] haft.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] RR.COM; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] .com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; rogersimpson12877@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] carolina.rr.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; tilliernbsnccc@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] hotmail.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ens.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] rr.com; linniehelms@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] yahoo.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] com; shirley.burris@ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wachovia.com;
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
to all concerned It is I that sent the jokes It was not and I repeat not intended to be on this or any other message board I sincerely apologize to all there is a list I use to send messages to a select group somehow this group got listed onto that list I have since removed the listing AGAIN, I SINCERELY APOLOGIZE TO ALL RALPH MESSER - Original Message - From: Tony Lelieveldmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.commailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 1:39 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord Moderators, Why are we getting jokes on this list server? Isn’t there enough wasted bandwidth on the internet already? I am telling all my friends NOT to send me all kinds of that crap. Some attachments are 10Mb. Some people can’t get high speed internet because they live in the country and still use dial-up. How frustrated they must be. Does my frustrations show? You bet it is. 73 and thank you to all who do honour requests like this. Tony, VE3DWI -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Sent: April 24, 2008 10:39 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jay Rivenbark; justblonde0419; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Pat Hartley; Repeater-Builder; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; smesser33 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: Pat Hartleymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Wanda Bowenmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Wandamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Tracymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Steve Greenemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Sharonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Rosa Jaymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Ralph Messermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; pope armstrongmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Milliemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Lindamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Lesmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Kimmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Judymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; JJmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jimmymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jerry Jenmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jerrymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Jackmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Hazelmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Genemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Dianamailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Dannymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Crystalmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Claymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Clarencemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Claramailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Cherylmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Butchmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Brucemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Billmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Betty Jessmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10:14 AM Subject: Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL
[Repeater-Builder] Power supply ID and schematic needed
Hello... New list member here and first post. I've been given a Motorola HV power supply and was told it came from a 1/4 KW repeater. I've spent 7 hours today searching the Internet and have not been able to ID the beast. Perhaps someone on the list has some info for me. The markings on the power supply are: TRN6567A and TPN1168A Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Ken - KB7H
[Repeater-Builder] Control of a Fan
I have a fan cooling a remote base transceiver. The fan is on 24/7. I would like to have the fan on only when the transceiver PTT is active (active low). Alternatively, I would like to have the fan on only when the RB is commanded to RX/TX mode. There must be many simple solutions to this problem, but I am not competent to choose the proper components and design the circuit. The fan operates on 12 volts and draws 250 milliamps when running, perhaps more at start up. If someone can suggest a proper transistor and circuit to turn the fan on and off, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. John AF4PD
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
And you just resent it all.. May not have been the best place to send it to, but thanks Ralph. The little Heavens note was most welcome to me. Tom WA0RTU Tony Lelieveld wrote: Moderators, Why are we getting jokes on this list server? Isn’t there enough wasted bandwidth on the internet already? I am telling all my friends NOT to send me all kinds of that crap. Some attachments are 10Mb. Some people can’t get high speed internet because they live in the country and still use dial-up. How frustrated they must be. Does my frustrations show? You bet it is. 73 and thank you to all who do honour requests like this. Tony, VE3DWI *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *On Behalf Of *Ralph Messer *Sent:* April 24, 2008 10:39 *To:* brian..snip.. No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.069.001). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
Ralph, Guess it's happened to all of us from time to time. It is very east to hit the wrong button and even easier to hit the button to condemn someone for a mistake. Not all of us are perfect. I figured when you saw it you would correct the problem and there was no need to jump down your throat. Paul _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 12:58 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord to all concerned It is I that sent the jokes It was not and I repeat not intended to be on this or any other message board I sincerely apologize to all there is a list I use to send messages to a select group somehow this group got listed onto that list I have since removed the listing AGAIN, I SINCERELY APOLOGIZE TO ALL RALPH MESSER - Original Message - From: HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Tony Lelieveld To: HYPERLINK mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 1:39 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord Moderators, Why are we getting jokes on this list server? Isn’t there enough wasted bandwidth on the internet already? I am telling all my friends NOT to send me all kinds of that crap. Some attachments are 10Mb. Some people can’t get high speed internet because they live in the country and still use dial-up. How frustrated they must be. Does my frustrations show? You bet it is. 73 and thank you to all who do honour requests like this. Tony, VE3DWI _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Sent: April 24, 2008 10:39 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jay Rivenbark; justblonde0419; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Pat Hartley; Repeater-Builder; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; smesser33 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Pat Hartley To: HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Wanda Bowen ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Wanda ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Tracy ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Steve Greene ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sharon ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Rosa Jay ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Ralph Messer ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]pope armstrong ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Millie ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Linda ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Les ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Kim ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Judy ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]JJ ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Jimmy ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Jerry Jen ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Jerry ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Jack ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Hazel ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Gene ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Diana ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Danny ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Crystal ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Clay ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Clarence ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Clara ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Cheryl ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Butch ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Bruce ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Bill ; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Betty Jess Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10:14 AM Subject: Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] To: HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]; HYPERLINK
[Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400
I have two CDM 1550's for link radios on UHF I want to feed with LMR- 400 because they are about 80ft runs up a commercial tower. I need to get from LMR-400 to mini uhf connector on the radio. Everyone has told me not to use the adapters, but to use a cable that is PL-259 to mini uhf. Is this my best option? Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Mike kb8zgl
Re: [Repeater-Builder] SpectraTac Housing - SMA Connector?
I don't think there's anything special about the connector or cable. You can just buy a regular straight SMA male (crimp or solder) for RG400, use a short piece of RG400, and attach it to the existing N-female chassis socket. Or make/buy a short SMA to N-male cable and install a bulkhead thru-connector, N-female to N-female, in the chassis. There should be room for that much. There are plenty of places on the web that will make any custom cable you want. You tell them what connectors you want at each end, the type of coax, and the length, pay about $30, and you get a very nicely made cable. The cable in my 900 MHz chassis is maybe 8-10 inches long and is arranged in the shape of a 2 with a tall tail at the top that is soldered to the N-female connector. There is an official part number for the entire cable assembly in the manual, but I doubt Motorola would have it any more, or if you'd want to pay them for it. I can send a photo of mine, if that would help. Bob M. == --- Adam C. Feuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, I'm going to be removing a low band receiver board from a Spectratac housing and replacing it with a 900mhz receiver. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of an SMA connector that can be purchased and crimped on to the coax jumper in the housing? If I cut off the RCA connector there appears to be enough cable to crimp on an SMA in it's place. Thanks! Adam N2ACF Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Zetron 38A Manual
Doesn't anyone check the website or do a google search anymore?? http://www.repeater-builder.com/zetron/zetron-model-38a-inst%20manual-025-9043y.pdf Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Jack Davis To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 11:24 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Zetron 38A Manual Does anyone have the schematics for a Zetron Model 38A repeater controller? The pages are blank in my manual and I need to fix it. Thanks, Jack K6YC -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1389 - Release Date: 4/21/2008 8:34 AM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400
You'll place a lot of strain on the mini-UHF connector on the back of the radio if you use a small adapter connected directly to the coax. Use a short jumper made from RG400 (more flexible than RG142) with a mini-UHF-male on one end, and whatever you need to mate with the LMR at the other end. The less adapters, the better. A very common cable would be N-male to mini-UHF-male, so if you can attach an N-female to the LMR, you'll only have one short jumper cable to deal with. If you have a lightning arrestor in line, you might be able to terminate the LMR at that device, then run a suitable length of RG400 from that to the radio. Make the connectors directly mate with the arrestor. N connectors are better above 300 MHz (the real UHF band) than PL-259s. Bob M. == --- Mike Wolthuis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have two CDM 1550's for link radios on UHF I want to feed with LMR- 400 because they are about 80ft runs up a commercial tower. I need to get from LMR-400 to mini uhf connector on the radio. Everyone has told me not to use the adapters, but to use a cable that is PL-259 to mini uhf. Is this my best option? Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Mike kb8zgl Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord
This has been taken care of. Enough discussion on the topic. Scott - List moderator Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Tony Lelieveld To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 1:39 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord Moderators, Why are we getting jokes on this list server? Isn’t there enough wasted bandwidth on the internet already? I am telling all my friends NOT to send me all kinds of that crap. Some attachments are 10Mb. Some people can’t get high speed internet because they live in the country and still use dial-up. How frustrated they must be. Does my frustrations show? You bet it is. 73 and thank you to all who do honour requests like this. Tony, VE3DWI -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Sent: April 24, 2008 10:39 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jay Rivenbark; justblonde0419; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Pat Hartley; Repeater-Builder; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; smesser33 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: Pat Hartley To: Wanda Bowen ; Wanda ; Tracy ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Steve Greene ; Sharon ; Rosa Jay ; Ralph Messer ; pope armstrong ; Millie ; Linda ; Les ; Kim ; Judy ; JJ ; Jimmy ; Jerry Jen ; Jerry ; Jack ; Hazel ; Gene ; Diana ; Danny ; Crystal ; Clay ; Clarence ; Clara ; Cheryl ; Butch ; Bruce ; Bill ; Betty Jess Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 10:14 AM Subject: Fw: Thank You, Lord - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 5:28 PM Subject: Fwd: Thank You, Lord From: Jimmie Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Cameron Hubbard [EMAIL PROTECTED], Cathy Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jacci Talbert [EMAIL PROTECTED], John Orck [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lori Nelson [EMAIL PROTECTED], Marilyn Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED], Nancy Martin [EMAIL PROTECTED], Nina Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Rita Brindle' [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Speranza Crane' [EMAIL PROTECTED], Susan Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED], Suzy Bigbie [EMAIL PROTECTED], Traci Shealey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thank You, Lord Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 10:13:45 -0400 Jimmie H. Hughes Director of Marketing The Hughes Companies, Inc. P.O. Box 499, Cumming, Ga, 30028 Office: (770) 887-0123 | Fax: (770) 889-6487 Email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Thank You, Lord _ WHAT HAPPENS IN HEAVEN This is one of the nicest e-mail's I have seen and it is so true: I dreamed I went to Heaven and an angel was showing me around. We walked side-by-side inside a large workroom filled with angels. My angel guide stopped in front of the first section and said, 'This is the Receiving Section.' Here, all petitions to God said in prayer are Received.' I looked around in this area, and it was terribly busy with so many angels sorting out petitions written on voluminous paper sheets and scraps from people all over the world. Then we moved on down a long corridor until we reached the second section. The angel then said to me, 'This is the Packaging and Delivery Section.' Here, the graces and blessings the people asked for are processed and delivered to the living persons who asked for them.' I noticed again how busy it was there. There were many
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400
Mike If you want a adaptor or a cable made up try these folks www.pasternack.comhttp://www.pasternack.com/ Ralph - Original Message - From: Mike Wolthuismailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.commailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 2:58 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400 I have two CDM 1550's for link radios on UHF I want to feed with LMR- 400 because they are about 80ft runs up a commercial tower. I need to get from LMR-400 to mini uhf connector on the radio. Everyone has told me not to use the adapters, but to use a cable that is PL-259 to mini uhf. Is this my best option? Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Mike kb8zgl
RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
OK, Rob, I'll bite... If the cable's been cut, activating the alarm, how will the repeater alert you? This sounds like a solution I'd come up with, then later say, ...d'oh! 73, Paul, AE4KR _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:16 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I started to think this was a weapon list. Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you also if someone tampered with it. Rob - KS4EC _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com com Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dmurman%40verizon.net net wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera. http://www.opera.com/mail/ com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, support groups and a lot more. SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING (R) http://www.JFCSonline.com www.JFCSonline.com Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses. Please update your contacts ASAP. NOTICE: This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the addressee and may contain legally privileged and confidential information. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or other use of this message or its attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received
Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Well it won't be broadcasting every 5 minutes! What else?:-) Randy --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Plack [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: OK, Rob, I'll bite... If the cable's been cut, activating the alarm, how will the repeater alert you? This sounds like a solution I'd come up with, then later say, ...d'oh! 73, Paul, AE4KR _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:16 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft  Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I started to think this was a weapon list. Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you also if someone tampered with it. Rob - KS4EC _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft  At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com com Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dmurman%40verizon.net net wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera. http://www.opera.com/mail/ com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, support groups and a lot more. SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING (R) http://www.JFCSonline.com www.JFCSonline.com Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses. Please update your contacts ASAP. NOTICE: This e-mail message and all attachments transmitted with it are intended solely for the use of the addressee and may contain legally privileged and confidential information. If the reader of
Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Well, if it has reverse autopatch on your controller, you could program it to call you by land line. Program the macro with something like- Danger Will Robinson lol Ok my bad. - Original Message - From: Paul Plack To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 1:41 PM Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft OK, Rob, I'll bite... If the cable's been cut, activating the alarm, how will the repeater alert you? This sounds like a solution I'd come up with, then later say, ...d'oh! 73, Paul, AE4KR -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:16 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I started to think this was a weapon list. Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you also if someone tampered with it. Rob - KS4EC -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, support groups and a lot more. SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING (R) www.JFCSonline.com Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses. Please update your contacts ASAP.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Steve wrote: Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I've got a couple of IP network cameras going up on eBay soon. If anyone is interested in them before they get listed, please see this page for details: http://www.n1nte.net/cams.html - Rob
RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
I guess you are right... DOH lol Maybe you'll get lucky and be the last cable cut! Rob From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Plack Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 4:42 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft OK, Rob, I'll bite... If the cable's been cut, activating the alarm, how will the repeater alert you? This sounds like a solution I'd come up with, then later say, ...d'oh! 73, Paul, AE4KR From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:16 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I started to think this was a weapon list. Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you also if someone tampered with it. Rob - KS4EC From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter. Anyway, why not just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, connected to a dc relay. This would trip a dc horn or siren (old police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their pants and away you go. I know most repeater sights are out in the middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime. I would guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding fence as they took off. OH well my 3 cents worth. - Original Message - From: Ron Wright mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft Fire Arms are good if you are there. When I was in the Nam we put up mechnical ambushes as they were called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always kept the battery in hidden place until needed. Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes where you are???) 73, ron, n9ee/r ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the feedline. From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dmurman%40verizon.net wrote: Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big a weapon you can handle. David - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of all faiths throughout most of Palm
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400
I have picked up some short cables (about 6 or 8 inches) with N female bulkhead fittings on one end and mini UHF male on the other end just for that purpose off of ebay. Just do a search for mini UHF and see what comes up. tom n8ies [Original Message] From: Mike Wolthuis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: 4/24/2008 2:58:56 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400 I have two CDM 1550's for link radios on UHF I want to feed with LMR- 400 because they are about 80ft runs up a commercial tower. I need to get from LMR-400 to mini uhf connector on the radio. Everyone has told me not to use the adapters, but to use a cable that is PL-259 to mini uhf. Is this my best option? Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Mike kb8zgl Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.3/1393 - Release Date: 4/23/2008 8:12 AM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] SpectraTac Housing - SMA Connector?
Hi Bob, Thanks for the reply. I too didn't think that there was anything special about the cable or connector. I was just looking to see if anyone knew of a supplier and part number for the SMA crimp on for RG400. ( I guess I should have typed it that way to begin with!) Thanks again! Adam N2ACF At 15:06 4/24/2008, you wrote: I don't think there's anything special about the connector or cable. You can just buy a regular straight SMA male (crimp or solder) for RG400, use a short piece of RG400, and attach it to the existing N-female chassis socket. Or make/buy a short SMA to N-male cable and install a bulkhead thru-connector, N-female to N-female, in the chassis. There should be room for that much. There are plenty of places on the web that will make any custom cable you want. You tell them what connectors you want at each end, the type of coax, and the length, pay about $30, and you get a very nicely made cable. The cable in my 900 MHz chassis is maybe 8-10 inches long and is arranged in the shape of a 2 with a tall tail at the top that is soldered to the N-female connector. There is an official part number for the entire cable assembly in the manual, but I doubt Motorola would have it any more, or if you'd want to pay them for it. I can send a photo of mine, if that would help. Bob M. == --- Adam C. Feuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, I'm going to be removing a low band receiver board from a Spectratac housing and replacing it with a 900mhz receiver. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of an SMA connector that can be purchased and crimped on to the coax jumper in the housing? If I cut off the RCA connector there appears to be enough cable to crimp on an SMA in it's place. Thanks! Adam N2ACF Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400
Mike, Another source for your jumper cable or adapter might be the RF Connection: http://www.therfc.com/ I just had Joel make up a cable I needed for my 900 MHz MSF5000 repeater conversion. Very good quality and reasonable pricing, plus quick turn-around time. (I had tried my own hand at it, and the results were less than stellar. hehehe) No pecuniary interest - just a satisfied customer. Mark - N9WYS From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Ralph Messer Mike If you want a adaptor or a cable made up try these folks www.pasternack.com Ralph - Original Message - From: Mike mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Wolthuis To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 2:58 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mini-UHF to LMR400 I have two CDM 1550's for link radios on UHF I want to feed with LMR- 400 because they are about 80ft runs up a commercial tower. I need to get from LMR-400 to mini uhf connector on the radio. Everyone has told me not to use the adapters, but to use a cable that is PL-259 to mini uhf. Is this my best option? Does anyone have a source? Thanks, Mike kb8zgl
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Control of a Fan
There are 2 circuits for fan contollers on the Repeater Builder website at http://www.repeater-builder.com/projects/project-index.html 73, George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 - Original Message - From: John Transue To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 4:56 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Control of a Fan I have a fan cooling a remote base transceiver. The fan is on 24/7. I would like to have the fan on only when the transceiver PTT is active (active low). Alternatively, I would like to have the fan on only when the RB is commanded to RX/TX mode. There must be many simple solutions to this problem, but I am not competent to choose the proper components and design the circuit. The fan operates on 12 volts and draws 250 milliamps when running, perhaps more at start up. If someone can suggest a proper transistor and circuit to turn the fan on and off, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. John AF4PD
RE: RE: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
Being a fire chief one of the standard questions I always ask at any fire is do you have any loaded fire arms inside? When loaded guns get hot the shell discharges just like it is being fired! Doesn't matter if the safety is on or not. I personally like the animal electric fence idea. Hook it up to a relay set up so it can be turned off remotely by touch tone. Mike Ka2ndw -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Wright Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 9:02 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft There have been a number of cases where a store or home owner wired a booby trap and someone got injured. Outlawing this is the law in many states. It is mainly due to the intruder might be a family member or fireman, etc trying to get in for good reasons. I would think it best for any prosecution that it depends on what actually happened, but then again often one does not want someone putting in these devices. Maybe use a lower voltage such as from a animal electric fence. Know would prefer to fry the intruder. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/23 Wed PM 09:54:47 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft There was a guy in the area near here who owned a bar... The bar was burglarized repeatedly, so the owner wired the window bars to 220V. Needless to say, when Mr. Burglar came back again, he was found the next day - still in the window. The family successfully sued, and the local prosecutor tried to prosecute the owner for reckless conduct... unsuccessfully, but the guy still has the arrest on his record. Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of MCH Well, how about feeding 220 (and I'm not talking the MHz variety) through a piece of Heliax to feed something on the tower like a light? (or even as an unterminated open circuit) That way, when the cut through it with the rest, SURPRISE! The guy who was stealing the cable will be the body attached to the cut pieces. I know excessive force. But, if it's feeding the light, is it excessive? Wrap it with tape that says warning - dangerous voltage. Joe M. Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Firearm Safety (Not much to do with Repeaters, I Hope)
Mike, back during the Nam days I was supporting some OV-10s at NKP Thailand and one augered in on takeoff at the base. We all started running out to where the pilot had ejected to see if we could help when all of a sudden the burning aircraft started popping and shells started ratteling off the hangers behind us. All the 30 cal stuff was cooking off with the rockets contributing to the fire. The aircraft was just a small puddle of aluminum with some steel mixed in when the fire was extinguished. It burned the runway right down to the gravel base. Shells don't have to be in a gun to cook off - they can do lots of damage in a box or ammo belt. 73 - Jim W5ZIT MikeDeWaele [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Being a fire chief one of the standard questions I always ask at any fire is do you have any loaded fire arms inside? When loaded guns get hot the shell discharges just like it is being fired! Doesn't matter if the safety is on or not. - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] SpectraTac Housing - SMA Connector?
I know that Mouser, Jameco, and Digikey have SMA connectors, although they might be solder rather than crimp. You'll probably even find some on eBay, and maybe even an entire cable. Bob M. == --- Adam C. Feuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Bob, Thanks for the reply. I too didn't think that there was anything special about the cable or connector. I was just looking to see if anyone knew of a supplier and part number for the SMA crimp on for RG400. ( I guess I should have typed it that way to begin with!) Thanks again! Adam N2ACF At 15:06 4/24/2008, you wrote: I don't think there's anything special about the connector or cable. You can just buy a regular straight SMA male (crimp or solder) for RG400, use a short piece of RG400, and attach it to the existing N-female chassis socket. Or make/buy a short SMA to N-male cable and install a bulkhead thru-connector, N-female to N-female, in the chassis. There should be room for that much. There are plenty of places on the web that will make any custom cable you want. You tell them what connectors you want at each end, the type of coax, and the length, pay about $30, and you get a very nicely made cable. The cable in my 900 MHz chassis is maybe 8-10 inches long and is arranged in the shape of a 2 with a tall tail at the top that is soldered to the N-female connector. There is an official part number for the entire cable assembly in the manual, but I doubt Motorola would have it any more, or if you'd want to pay them for it. I can send a photo of mine, if that would help. Bob M. == --- Adam C. Feuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, I'm going to be removing a low band receiver board from a Spectratac housing and replacing it with a 900mhz receiver. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number of an SMA connector that can be purchased and crimped on to the coax jumper in the housing? If I cut off the RCA connector there appears to be enough cable to crimp on an SMA in it's place. Thanks! Adam N2ACF Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Channel Elements parts
It's not just netting the crystal; there's a lot more to compensating a crystal than simply compensating for temperature. It is easy to assume that all ICM or Bomar does is to tweak a few capacitors so that the crystal can 1) be brought to the proper frequency with the trimmer centered, and 2) maintain a close tolerance over a wide temperature range, But the really good crystal houses also make component changes to 3) ensure spectral purity of the output, 4) ensure proper operation with the specified load, 5) ensure the static output level exceeds the minimum specification, 6) ensure the deviation is symmetrical about the center frequency, and 7) ensure that the channel element can be deviated full-range with a specified input. As noted in the article on the RBTIP, items 3 through 7 cannot be performed without the channel element. I know of quite a few cases where a transmitter's signal was distorted when modulated but was rock-solid when unmodulated, and the problem was cured when the crystal and the channel element were sent back for complete compensation. As always, YMMV... 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of kk2ed Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 9:46 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Info Wanted: RE: Motorola Channel Elements parts I posted on this subject awhile back. Do a search on posts by my user name. Basically, there are two caps towards the edge of the circuit board (opposite of the trimmer/socket end) that vary anywhere from 5- 33pf. Install the crystal, then play with the value of these two caps. I have found that I usally need to reduce the capacitance a little, and the crystals net right on. I've never had to change an inductor. Pick up the small capacitor assortment that Radio Shack sells - it has about 50 caps in the 5-33pf range. I use them all the time to replace the original caps in the elements. Before you start changing the caps, first install the crystal and fire it up, and while watching your frequency counter or service monitor, set the warp trimmer to midpoint (halfway between the lowest and highest freq settings possible). Then start playing with the capacitor value until the crystal is as close to your desired frequency as possible. This simple step will ensure that you can adjust the crystal adequately up or down as needed in the future, as well as the initial setup. If the capacitor swap gets you within 2Khz or so, the trimmer should have enough pull to net you on center frequency. If I recall, the capacitor in question is usually red, and while holding the element component-side up and plug-in end towards you, the cap is to the far left corner. Speaking of elements, I need to call Bomar tomorrow - a one-year old 440MHz repeater crystal decided over the weekend to jump 25Khz high - right onto the input of another repeater! Same PL no less! (Here in the NE every other 25KHz pair flips low-in hi-out and vice versa) I think someone was going to take my original post about compensating elements and place it on repeater-builder, but I never noticed it there. Hopefully it will save others some money. It always amazed me that guys would embark on a large project building, wiring, and tuning a repeater, but the simple task of re-crystalling and netting elements always seemed to be intimidating. Most likely due to lack of info being published on the subject. Eric KE2D --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , w4dg.geo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently ordered TX and RX crystals from ICM for the MICOR RT Station. I specified the correct FC and FX and catalog # 167380 for MOT KNX1018C TX (132-174). When these crystals were received they would not net on frequency. The TX was over 20Khz. high and would not net any closer. I notified ICM and their Customer Service Dept., agreed to replace the TX crystal. When I received this replacement crystal, it was over 30Khz. high! I sent another email and got a reply from the owner, Royden Freeland, W5EMH, stating the following: To get the crystal to tune properly you will need to change L1 to 2.6-2.7uh and C6 to 1-10 pf depending on the crystal to get it on frequency at close to center trim. Each element was compensated and tuned for the original crystal so if you are changing frequency very far there can be problems. Motorola generally used a crystal load of 32pf in elements with trimmers and varied components within the element to bring it on frequency. ICM will be happy to install the crystal and compensate the element if you would prefer. We would charge $60.00 to install and compensate your element and crystal. I have printed out the channel element schmetic and picture (from W3KCC) repeater-Builders website and see that C6 is the trimmer and L1, but no values are represented. Can anyone
[Repeater-Builder] MSR 2000 alignment problem
I have a uhf msr2000 which I recently changed frequency to 464.075/469.075. Original freq was about 1.5mhz away. I sent the elements in and had them recrystaled. After I installed them and tuned up the receiver it worked pretty well for a month. I noticed it loosing sensitivity lately so I got out the service monitor to check sensitivity. Here is the problem. If you tune the frequency trimmer for best quieting you get very scratchy audio. If you tune for best audio you loose sensitivity. I did not bother the discriminator coil but if it is misaligned will that be my problem? If aligned for best quieting it breaks squelch at around .21uv but at best audio recovery it only makes .8uv. This is with the generator passing through the duplexer with the transmitter disabled. The duplexer is factory Motorola. This is a 110 watt intermittent duty repeater and I am getting 65 watts out of the duplexer. Does this sound about right for this machine? WB5OXQ
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Did some searching, and it looks like splices would run maybe twice or more the cost of one male and one female. I found about $30 or so, maybe more, I forget, just for the inner part, and the only shell I found by itself was out of sight. A splice for larger Heliax seems to be around $129.00. As it is, I have 4 male N connectors for the 7/8 and one female. Figure I will never need all of them, being as I have them. If I did not have at least one more than I figured, I would wind up needing to find another one. Murphy's Law seems to work that way. Like those end caps for PVC pipe. I always wind up not having enough of them unless I buy the big package, which Home Despot never has when I need to buy them. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 07:54:30 -0500, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wayne, One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined or for other applications needing a spice. Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable also. 73, ron, nn9ee/r From: Wayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good parts. The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut many things down. I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made for use with. Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits through the gland nut... I should post a few part nubers and brands later. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who manufactured the item. In this case: AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS ONE KENNEDY AVENUE DANBURY, CT 06810 Cage Code: 74868 Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 It is a marked Amphenol connector. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 jumper. Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to be good quality. No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the other, so should be good to go. Wayne WA2YNE -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome. -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
