Re: [Repeater-Builder] Side-mounted DB-224 performance
The bottom half of this page may be of interest: http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/antenna-mounting-guidelines.pdf There is also a free downloadable copy of ANTPLOT - A Side-Tower Mounted Antenna Pattern Prediction Program on the web page here: http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ant-sys-index.html Mike WA6ILQ At 02:02 PM 08/25/08, you wrote: Our club has permission to mount our brand-new DB-224E on the side of the local hospital's tower, about halfway up (90'). We want maximum signal to the north-east, so will be mounting the antenna on the NE leg of the tower, with all 4 elements on the NE side of the mast. Is it necessary to use a stand-off bracket? Or would it be OK to mount the mast right next to the tower leg using the bracket(s) that came with the antenna? I don't care about performance to the south-west; actually a null to the SW would be good to minimize interference from a co-channel system only 100 miles away. 73, --Don-- W8DPK
[Repeater-Builder] RE: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Joe Burkleo wrote: Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts on the PA board? Yes, the transistors will not make it. Motorola designed it that way. If so what results have you had? I have never seen or heard of anyone that has had any great success with a conversion of the PA, so... , here is a cure: http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html I also recommend the receiver and exciter conversions outlined here (referred to as the 'new method'), as they work better than others on the Internet: http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#220 Regards, Kevin Custer
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
WOW ! I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater that you know nothing about Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified repeater that has now a KW amp. That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has a frequency exciter, PA receiver... If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the B leans low band 27 -50MHz if the B was a C then that would be Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was D then VHF High band 150-170 MHz If it was E UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was F then 806-960 MHz . Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with but should have been able to figure out with the manual. Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . But you have to live through it to learn. There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the line voltage. Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was made in 68 I think. Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to help. Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill yourself, we will teach you. If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over and just keep an eye on you. Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. Then have fun. The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of the transformer on the hi voltage supply To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on the band. There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will get to those. You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even the smartest person can save you life via email. Good luck, Robert / KD4PBC -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv n9lv@ wrote: I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Just looked you up on QRZ.com. Nice Shack looks like you may have some HV experience. Still be careful ! Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 9:47 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions WOW ! I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater that you know nothing about Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified repeater that has now a KW amp. That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has a frequency exciter, PA receiver... If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the B leans low band 27 -50MHz if the B was a C then that would be Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was D then VHF High band 150-170 MHz If it was E UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was F then 806-960 MHz . Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with but should have been able to figure out with the manual. Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . But you have to live through it to learn. There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the line voltage. Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was made in 68 I think. Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to help. Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill yourself, we will teach you. If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over and just keep an eye on you. Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. Then have fun. The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of the transformer on the hi voltage supply To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on the band. There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will get to those. You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even the smartest person can save you life via email. Good luck, Robert / KD4PBC -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv n9lv@ wrote: I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo!
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio
heh-maybe you've been down this path, but try unplugging the controller and see if the repeater can be brought up. If it does, you have an internal path somewhere. n9lv wrote: That is what I thought was wrong first of all, tried it both ways and no change either way. I thought for sure when I wired up the controller that it was fine, but not sure when the other repeater came into the picture. I am going to check the switches today and see if there is anything there. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Check to see if Zone 2 Function 5 is turned on. If on, it could let a COR signal get to your repeater without having the correct CTCSS frequency decoded. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Sun, 8/31/08, n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 10:44 AM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Trunking Mode?
Eric Lemmon wrote: Terry, Perhaps you are hearing them on an image frequency. Rest assured, the frequency you specified, 461.58125 MHz, cannot legally be used by any Public-Safety agency. I sincerely doubt that a police agency would deliberately set up shop on a frequency that they are not authorized to use. But hey, some rules are made to be broken, and it won't be the first time that a small police or fire department uses a frequency without the benefit of a license or proper coordination! 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY There's a police dept here using a frequency licensed to a local farmer on VHF. They have a whopper repeater outputing there. We believe the dealer told them that since they are public safety, they can use anything they want as long as they have 'a' license for something. They've been known to put PS customers on the air in places they aren't licensed for.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Trunking Mode?
Terry wrote: I realize this is OT but need to draw on the knowledge here. A new police agency has popped up here in my County. So far we hear activity on a frequency of 461.58125. This is the only frequency found so far. Does the fact that we hear a pulse (possibly) sub-audible data, every 2 seconds or so give any clue to what type of system they have or are building? Thanks Terry I'm going to say it's LTR or a variant.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Free RCA Repeater
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kf8yk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Cleaning out the basement, found a RCA 500 UHF repeater. If anyone could use this, it's free for the asking. Pick up in Cleveland, Ohio or I'll ship it if you pay the shipping cost. The PA, PS, exciter/receiver and control shelf have all been removed from the cabinet, so if you only need a particular piece just ask. There's a set of service manuals too. 73, Eric KF8YK Is the repeater still available? Thanks 73, David, WI4L
[Repeater-Builder] Zetron DTMF Mic
I have a Zetron ZML series DTMF mic that is cabled and jumpered for a Motorola Spectra. I would like to replace the connector and use it on an iCom mobile. I have the pin out for the iCom. Does anyone out there have a manual and/or diagram for this mic? I need to know how the mic is built so I can properly configure it. There are several jumpers that I have no idea what they are used for. Other informationon the mic; ZML part number 901-9272 Z 66655 The Z 66655 gives me a few hits on Google but so far no diagram or service informationon this mic. Can anyone help here? Jim
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor repeater parts
Selling off a old Motorola Micro UHF repeater...parts...TCN 1187A and TLN5649A , with time out timer, encoder board, squelch, etc. Was recently retired from commercial use, PA already sold, this is the transmitter and receiver boards to make a complete repeater, was working when removed. ... Asking $100 plus shipping. email at k8wbl at yahoo.com 73, Tim K8WBL
[Repeater-Builder] LMR-400 crimp
IF you are only looking for LMR-400, Ideal makes a crimp tool called the crimpmaster. The part number 30-506 is the frame only. I suggest gettting 2 dies, one that does vinyl connectors 22awg-10awg which you should be able to find in the frame at places like your local electronics store as well as Home Depot, Lowes...The second die you need is one with a .429 hex crimp 30-577 it will do any of the EZ style LMR connectos. Paul
Re: [repeater] RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense
Congratulations John! And we can certainly afford to buy replacement custom cables. 73, Tom n4zpt John Transue wrote: Eric, Bob, and many other good folks, Success This being a holiday, I could not get RG400 to replace the cable from the TX to the connector on the back of the repeater, so I built a shield to completely enclose the cable. I also wrapped aluminum tape around the receive cable in the chassis. Lo! And Behold! No more desense! My sincere thanks go to all of you who have helped me through this most vexing problem. The repeater will be far more useful now. Best 73s to you all, JohnT AF4PD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Trunking Mode?
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Terry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I realize this is OT but need to draw on the knowledge here. A new police agency has popped up here in my County. So far we hear activity on a frequency of 461.58125. This is the only frequency found so far. Does the fact that we hear a pulse (possibly) sub-audible data, every 2 seconds or so give any clue to what type of system they have or are building? Thanks Terry Two Way Radio Communications, Inc. has a 10 channel trunking system in Cumberland, MD, call sign WPRI785. According to Google Maps the transmitter site is approx. 4,000 feet away from your QTH. One of the repeaters is licensed for 461.5875 MHz, 11K2F3E emissions and 250 watts ERP. I would bet that this is what you are hearing. The pulse every two seconds is usually indicative of some LTR type trunking system, usually normal LTR has a pulse about once every 10 seconds and the Passport variant is usually quicker, about 1 to 2 seconds between pulses. 73, Eric KF8YK
[Repeater-Builder] GE Master lll
Hi All I am looking for a programming cable for the master lll Thanks Jim
RE: [Repeater-Builder] GE Master lll
Just a straight thru serial 9 pin serial cable. Jamey Wright Systems Analyst/EDACS Administrator Morgan County EMCD 911 Decatur, AL 256-552-0911 -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jim Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:11 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE Master lll Hi All I am looking for a programming cable for the master lll Thanks Jim Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I did mention that this is a VHF Micor Upright RT system, as I bought all the parts, just did not get the cabinet. I am very familiar with the voltages at hand, I am not in anyway new to this, however I have been dealing with a disease that has affected my memory and thinking process of which I currently found out what it was. Lime Disease. Anyways, the help that I am asking for is to note where all the extra wires goes. I have been looking at the schematics, thus is how I found that the ac power cord goes to the High Voltage PS. I have put all the pieces back in line per the manual. When I hook up the low voltage and high voltage power supply, just don't want to mix the wires up. If it were straigt forward in numbering it would not be so bad. I am going to be back at it this afternoon, and hopefully fire it up, or catch it on fire, hi hi.. So it's not that I don't know what I am doing, I just need someone to hollar at once I find a wire that I am not sure where it belongs. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: WOW ! I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater that you know nothing about Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified repeater that has now a KW amp. That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has a frequency exciter, PA receiver... If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the B leans low band 27 -50MHz if the B was a C then that would be Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was D then VHF High band 150-170 MHz If it was E UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was F then 806-960 MHz . Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with but should have been able to figure out with the manual. Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . But you have to live through it to learn. There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the line voltage. Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was made in 68 I think. Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to help. Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill yourself, we will teach you. If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over and just keep an eye on you. Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. Then have fun. The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of the transformer on the hi voltage supply To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on the band. There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will get to those. You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even the smartest person can save you life via email. Good luck, Robert / KD4PBC -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote: Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert
[Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit)
Are there any guidelines as to what level from the receiver to the TS-64 should be used?? The out put of the receiver is set for one volt with a 3khz deviated signal and for my part seems to be a bit high for the lp/hp filter op amps. In my case, when observed with a scope, the signal out of the rx at pin 11 is nice and clean as it is going into the lp filter section on the TS-64. Coming out of the TS-64 hp filter, it is distorted and noisy. With the levels left the way they were, the unit could be made to take off at a low frequency and high amplitude. Also, there appears to be a hf signal coming out at all times with an amplitude of about 105mvs. For some reason I can't seem to sync it in with the scope.(grass!) If I reduce the level out of rx to the point where it does not take off, and most of the distortion disappears, I still have the steady grass somewhat diminished in amplitude. The grass is removed by the input circuit of the MRC100 controller and the audio to the first op amp is clean. The distortion is as heard on the MSTRII speaker. I won't know what it sounds like coming out of the controller until I get it operational. (blown op amp) I did patch the TS-64 out and the repeater works just fine. The TS-64 also functions the way it is supposed to when in the radio. The squelch works with the reduced receiver level and the grass does not seem to bother it. What is the recommended input level that should be set for the TS-64. Has any one else seen this behavior. Thanks and 73 Doug VE5DA
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit)
At 12:33 PM 09/02/08, you wrote: Are there any guidelines as to what level from the receiver to the TS-64 should be used?? The out put of the receiver is set for one volt with a 3khz deviated signal and for my part seems to be a bit high for the lp/hp filter op amps. In my case, when observed with a scope, the signal out of the rx at pin 11 is nice and clean as it is going into the lp filter section on the TS-64. Coming out of the TS-64 hp filter, it is distorted and noisy. With the levels left the way they were, the unit could be made to take off at a low frequency and high amplitude. Also, there appears to be a hf signal coming out at all times with an amplitude of about 105mvs. For some reason I can't seem to sync it in with the scope.(grass!) If I reduce the level out of rx to the point where it does not take off, and most of the distortion disappears, I still have the steady grass somewhat diminished in amplitude. The grass is removed by the input circuit of the MRC100 controller and the audio to the first op amp is clean. The distortion is as heard on the MSTRII speaker. I won't know what it sounds like coming out of the controller until I get it operational. (blown op amp) I did patch the TS-64 out and the repeater works just fine. The TS-64 also functions the way it is supposed to when in the radio. The squelch works with the reduced receiver level and the grass does not seem to bother it. What is the recommended input level that should be set for the TS-64. Has any one else seen this behavior. Thanks and 73 Doug VE5DA The TS-64 data sheet (at http://www.repeater-builder.com/com-spec/com-spec-ts64inst.pdf) says 15mv minimum and that the input is 60K Ohms AC coupled. In your shoes I'd call Com Spec at 800-854-0547 between 8a and 4:30p Pacific Time and describe the situation. Spence is good people and he'll help. Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit)
Doug, I have had some similar experiences here in the RB skunk works. I thought I was the only one to come across this phenomenon. I first noticed it with the batch of 5 or so that I got around the first of the year. I'm not sure if they changed to a different op-amp mfg or what. My experience was the same as yours that I merely jumpered the input to the output - bypassing the TS-64 and the whole setup runs great. (no decode of course). On the ones I ran into, I merely turned down the pot in the disc. and then adjusted the input pot on the controller to compensate. I am scratching my memory, but I think I *was* able to re-produce this behavior on the test bench with a sine wave generator. Please let us all know what you find out. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 3:58 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit) At 12:33 PM 09/02/08, you wrote: Are there any guidelines as to what level from the receiver to the TS-64 should be used?? The out put of the receiver is set for one volt with a 3khz deviated signal and for my part seems to be a bit high for the lp/hp filter op amps. In my case, when observed with a scope, the signal out of the rx at pin 11 is nice and clean as it is going into the lp filter section on the TS-64. Coming out of the TS-64 hp filter, it is distorted and noisy. With the levels left the way they were, the unit could be made to take off at a low frequency and high amplitude. Also, there appears to be a hf signal coming out at all times with an amplitude of about 105mvs. For some reason I can't seem to sync it in with the scope.(grass!) If I reduce the level out of rx to the point where it does not take off, and most of the distortion disappears, I still have the steady grass somewhat diminished in amplitude. The grass is removed by the input circuit of the MRC100 controller and the audio to the first op amp is clean. The distortion is as heard on the MSTRII speaker. I won't know what it sounds like coming out of the controller until I get it operational. (blown op amp) I did patch the TS-64 out and the repeater works just fine. The TS-64 also functions the way it is supposed to when in the radio. The squelch works with the reduced receiver level and the grass does not seem to bother it. What is the recommended input level that should be set for the TS-64. Has any one else seen this behavior. Thanks and 73 Doug VE5DA The TS-64 data sheet (at http://www.repeater-builder.com/com-spec/com-spec-ts64inst.pdf) says 15mv minimum and that the input is 60K Ohms AC coupled. In your shoes I'd call Com Spec at 800-854-0547 between 8a and 4:30p Pacific Time and describe the situation. Spence is good people and he'll help. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1647 - Release Date: 9/2/2008 6:02 AM
[Repeater-Builder] Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer
I picked up a PD-526 UHF duplexer as part of a rebuild of a local community college repeater (W6BAB). See these two photos : http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/duplexer.jpg http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/rg-8.jpg As visible in the photos this duplexer is missing the center section of the harness, plus it's so old that it has RG-8 jumpers between the cavities,and the outer jacket of that RG-8 is cracking. I'd like to replace the entire harness with modern cable but need some length measurements of the harness. Does anybody have one that they can measure? Any suggestions as to cable, or a vendor ? My current plan is to use RG-393 and new Kings or Amphenol N Connectors. (Why 393? Well, it's going on a 60 watt repeater right now, and RG142 would be fine, but down the road the duplexer will probably end up on the output of a 250 w Micor, and if you are going to make up a harness that will be used for the next 30 years why impose limits on yourself ? Besides RG142 is LOSSY) Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Free RCA Repeater
I had one of these in the ham band for several years. I disabled the final and used the driver to a mobile duplexer. I had a super location and the repeater worked great with only about 6 watts out of the driver. With the tube final disabled, all the rest of the radio is solid state. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Sun, 8/31/08, WI4L [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: WI4L [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Free RCA Repeater To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 1:29 PM --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, kf8yk ericbartholomew@ ... wrote: Cleaning out the basement, found a RCA 500 UHF repeater. If anyone could use this, it's free for the asking. Pick up in Cleveland, Ohio or I'll ship it if you pay the shipping cost. The PA, PS, exciter/receiver and control shelf have all been removed from the cabinet, so if you only need a particular piece just ask. There's a set of service manuals too. 73, Eric KF8YK Is the repeater still available? Thanks 73, David, WI4L
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
The harness is in full tack from what I see, nothing seems to be cut or missing. I am going out now to get a list of all the parts. Will report back shortly. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit)
I just hooked up a TS-64MastrII in a GE Base Station Repeater, using a CAT-300 controller, and had no issue at all with the audio quality. I bought this TS-64 two weeks ago direct from ComSpec. Standard setting on the GE pot gave me a nice signal at the output of the TS-64 High Pass filter. I found the output of the high pass filter on a pin that extends through the board that mounts the assembly to plug into the GE System board. Instead of using the mod suggested in the Repeater-Builder info, I routed the audio out the receive frequency select 2 pin on the connector right behind the TS-64. I also routed the tone detect signal out the receive frequency select 3 pin. I found the TS-64 already jumpered to give a positive output for a detected CTCSS tone. That allowed my complete interface to the GE Mastr II base station to be on the two Molex connectors on the left rear of the chassis. This interface works with either the card file GE controller boards or the IDA controller I use. I just put the IDA in Repeat Inhibit mode and all works with the external CAT-300. I do have a RLC-1000B connected to the CAT-300 which provides for de-emphizing the audio, since the audio from the TS-64 is not de-emphasized. Schematics of the interface cable and the harness to interface the CAT-300 and the RLC-1000B are included in the club forum at: http://sbarcnm.org/forum/index.php?topic=108.30 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Tue, 9/2/08, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit) To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 3:23 PM Doug, I have had some similar experiences here in the RB skunk works. I thought I was the only one to come across this phenomenon. I first noticed it with the batch of 5 or so that I got around the first of the year. I'm not sure if they changed to a different op-amp mfg or what. My experience was the same as yours that I merely jumpered the input to the output - bypassing the TS-64 and the whole setup runs great. (no decode of course). On the ones I ran into, I merely turned down the pot in the disc. and then adjusted the input pot on the controller to compensate. I am scratching my memory, but I think I *was* able to re-produce this behavior on the test bench with a sine wave generator. Please let us all know what you find out. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] net To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 3:58 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSTR II VHF and the TS-64MSTII(Repeater Unit) At 12:33 PM 09/02/08, you wrote: Are there any guidelines as to what level from the receiver to the TS-64 should be used?? The out put of the receiver is set for one volt with a 3khz deviated signal and for my part seems to be a bit high for the lp/hp filter op amps. In my case, when observed with a scope, the signal out of the rx at pin 11 is nice and clean as it is going into the lp filter section on the TS-64. Coming out of the TS-64 hp filter, it is distorted and noisy. With the levels left the way they were, the unit could be made to take off at a low frequency and high amplitude. Also, there appears to be a hf signal coming out at all times with an amplitude of about 105mvs. For some reason I can't seem to sync it in with the scope.(grass! ) If I reduce the level out of rx to the point where it does not take off, and most of the distortion disappears, I still have the steady grass somewhat diminished in amplitude. The grass is removed by the input circuit of the MRC100 controller and the audio to the first op amp is clean. The distortion is as heard on the MSTRII speaker. I won't know what it sounds like coming out of the controller until I get it operational. (blown op amp) I did patch the TS-64 out and the repeater works just fine. The TS-64 also functions the way it is supposed to when in the radio. The squelch works with the reduced receiver level and the grass does not seem to bother it. What is the recommended input level that should be set for the TS-64. Has any one else seen this behavior. Thanks and 73 Doug VE5DA The TS-64 data sheet (at http://www.repeater -builder. com/com-spec/ com-spec- ts64inst. pdf) says 15mv minimum and that the input is 60K Ohms AC coupled. In your shoes I'd call Com Spec at 800-854-0547 between 8a and 4:30p Pacific Time and describe the situation. Spence is good people and he'll help. Mike WA6ILQ - - -- Yahoo! Groups Links __
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer
Physician, heal thyself! Did YOU look on www.repeater-builder.com? I know there's a cut chart (PDF file) that lists several models, including the 526 using RG214 coax. Probably in the Antenna section. Do you know how good it feels to tell the great one to look in his own back yard for a change?!?!?! Sorry, I couldn't resist! Bob M. == --- On Tue, 9/2/08, Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 4:26 PM I picked up a PD-526 UHF duplexer as part of a rebuild of a local community college repeater (W6BAB). See these two photos : http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/duplexer.jpg http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/rg-8.jpg As visible in the photos this duplexer is missing the center section of the harness, plus it's so old that it has RG-8 jumpers between the cavities,and the outer jacket of that RG-8 is cracking. I'd like to replace the entire harness with modern cable but need some length measurements of the harness. Does anybody have one that they can measure? Any suggestions as to cable, or a vendor ? My current plan is to use RG-393 and new Kings or Amphenol N Connectors. (Why 393? Well, it's going on a 60 watt repeater right now, and RG142 would be fine, but down the road the duplexer will probably end up on the output of a 250 w Micor, and if you are going to make up a harness that will be used for the next 30 years why impose limits on yourself ? Besides RG142 is LOSSY) Mike WA6ILQ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer
This model is now manufactured by EMR in Phoenix, AZ. http://www.emrcorp.com/brochures/23/RFS%20Brochure_526%20Series.pdf EMR may be able to make a new harness for you. Cables should be an electrical 1/4 wave, so it depends on the coax. I am currently refurbishing one and planning on using RG-142, It has less loss than RG-223, And 4.5 is about .025dB . On Tue, Sep 2, 2008 at 3:49 PM, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Physician, heal thyself! Did YOU look on www.repeater-builder.com? I know there's a cut chart (PDF file) that lists several models, including the 526 using RG214 coax. Probably in the Antenna section. Do you know how good it feels to tell the great one to look in his own back yard for a change?!?!?! Sorry, I couldn't resist! Bob M. == --- On Tue, 9/2/08, Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 4:26 PM I picked up a PD-526 UHF duplexer as part of a rebuild of a local community college repeater (W6BAB). See these two photos : http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/duplexer.jpg http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/pd526-duplexer/rg-8.jpg As visible in the photos this duplexer is missing the center section of the harness, plus it's so old that it has RG-8 jumpers between the cavities,and the outer jacket of that RG-8 is cracking. I'd like to replace the entire harness with modern cable but need some length measurements of the harness. Does anybody have one that they can measure? Any suggestions as to cable, or a vendor ? My current plan is to use RG-393 and new Kings or Amphenol N Connectors. (Why 393? Well, it's going on a 60 watt repeater right now, and RG142 would be fine, but down the road the duplexer will probably end up on the output of a 250 w Micor, and if you are going to make up a harness that will be used for the next 30 years why impose limits on yourself ? Besides RG142 is LOSSY) Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: [EMAIL PROTECTED] VHF Duplexer
I have a question. After reading have formed a question because my repeater setup: Mastr II Exec, Sinclair Q2220E Duplexer and the duplexer separation is atleast 60 db but having the antenna at the height of 50 feet. How much total height must would have to be since it only has 60 db separation? Right now cannot afford an expensive duplexer so what can be done to improve my current situaion? Increase height? I have been told that the use of 70 centimeter crossband will help but would like to remain in my coordinated input/output frequencies. Thanks and 73 de N2OBS.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not be a big problem. Just stay within the limits of the tube. There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire wound mother. The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4 muffin fans on the 2 heat sinks. It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 to 20 hours a day. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct
[Repeater-Builder] Alexander Batteries Optimizer Info / Manual available on line?
Hello groovy guys and gals, I picked up an Alexander Batteries Optimizer (4 pocket model) last weekend at the local ham flea market. I also see a number of similar models on ebay cheap enough. Do any of you have or know where I can obtain the manual or basic operating information (besides going to Alexander Tech as I've already Emailed them and am waiting for a reply). I figured one of you might have that information handy? or know of an Optimizer Manual available on-line? I'd also welcome your opinions about the Alexander Batteries Optimizer units... both yeah and nay. thanks in advance for your replies... cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer
Hey Bob, don't you remember, Mike moved his back yard, and can't find anything. Anyway, he wants to use RG-393 and new Kings or Amphenol N connectors. They would have a different velocity factor... Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Physician, heal thyself! Did YOU look on www.repeater-builder.com? I know there's a cut chart (PDF file) that lists several models, including the 526 using RG214 coax. Probably in the Antenna section. Do you know how good it feels to tell the great one to look in his own back yard for a change?!?!?! Sorry, I couldn't resist! Bob M. ==
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not be a big problem. Just stay within the limits of the tube. There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire wound mother. The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4 muffin fans on the 2 heat sinks. It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 to 20 hours a day. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, KD4PBC 900@ wrote: Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or ed so there is no squelch crash. More details if you need them.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, sgreact47 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or ed so there is no squelch crash. More details if you need them.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer
Actually he put everything he owned into a storage facility and now everything is at the bottom of the pile. Maybe he'll just have to use good old RG214 and crimp-on N connectors like Celwave did on the stock cable sets they sold for $250 (I bought one). Bob M. == --- On Tue, 9/2/08, sgreact47 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: sgreact47 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help needed on PD-526 UHF duplexer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 8:16 PM Hey Bob, don't you remember, Mike moved his back yard, and can't find anything. Anyway, he wants to use RG-393 and new Kings or Amphenol N connectors. They would have a different velocity factor... Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Physician, heal thyself! Did YOU look on www.repeater-builder.com? I know there's a cut chart (PDF file) that lists several models, including the 526 using RG214 coax. Probably in the Antenna section. Do you know how good it feels to tell the great one to look in his own back yard for a change?!?!?! Sorry, I couldn't resist! Bob M.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, sgreact47 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or ed so there is no squelch crash. More details if you need them.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor to 222 MHz PA Conversion
Kevin Thanks for the information. I figured that if anyone had tried it you would be aware. I was just looking for more than 30 Watts out. Can these modules be considered continuous duty if they are properly mounted on a Micor station PA chassis. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe Burkleo wrote: Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts on the PA board? Yes, the transistors will not make it. Motorola designed it that way. If so what results have you had? I have never seen or heard of anyone that has had any great success with a conversion of the PA, so... , here is a cure: http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html I also recommend the receiver and exciter conversions outlined here (referred to as the 'new method'), as they work better than others on the Internet: http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#220 Regards, Kevin Custer
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, I have several of these in service for 440 MHz amateur use. They are the 225 watt UHF version. Most of the control wiring that connects to the unified chassis is similar. I use the station control module and the squelch gate card. This makes use of all of the proper keyed A- paths for the exciter channel element and keying. This configuration will also provide you with the turn on delay that prevents the transmitter from keying before the tube is all warmed up. This is very important for tube life. I would recommend using the factory station PL encoder and decoder if you have them available. If you decide to use the factory PL boards, make sure the radio is configured for AND squelch. You should be able to retune the PA cavity for 2 Meters, but if you are much below 147 MHz with your transmit frequency, you may need to find a low split 138 - 150 MHz solid state PA board for the PA that is used to drive the tube. The only thing I change in these radios is the coax from the output of the PA to the harmonic filter. I use a piece of 3/8 superflex to replace the factory piece of coax, and the tube PA is much happier. We found the factory coax will get warm when the transmitter is keyed for 15 minutes or longer. I have used both the Arcom and Link-Com controllers and they both work fine with these radios. I did not make it to the shop today, but I will take the digital camera and try and get some photos for you tomorrow. Sounds like you are making progress. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9lv [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew
