[Repeater-Builder] ID old Regency PA board.

2010-04-14 Thread n3dab
I have an old Regency ACU45A UHF 450-470 RF PA that appears to be  modified 
with an additional PA board.  The original 45W PA board is marked Regency and 
604-143 Rev L, all the component part numbers are marked on the board as 
well.  The additioal board appears to be of Regency/Wilson/Rhelm manufacture 
but has only 2 markings on it, MC 3881 in ink and 604-149 F in solder.  
This board has 5 ajustable air capacitors, a e/m relay, 2 Motoloa 9236 
transisters along with afew other small components.  The ACU45A  is nominally a 
45W PA, however the extra board kicks the output to over 100W.  The PA is 
currently functional and tuned in the 440 band. 

Can anyone provide me with any info or a schematic of this additional board ?  

Doug N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] ID old Regency PA board.

2010-04-14 Thread n3dab
Just discovered that this additional board may have been lifted from a Regency 
ACH100 or AASCH100 PA, if anyone has the documentation on one of those PA's.

Doug  N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Best coax for marine use

2009-11-24 Thread n3dab
I would Suggest looking at either aandrew FSJx-50 or LMR 3/8 or 1/2 heliax 
type cable (100% solid shield) and if available a direct burial or underground 
type jacket for additional water infiltration protection.  Go the the home 
pages or either mfg. to get full specs and min. bend radius.

Doug  N3DAB   

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vernon Densler m...@... wrote:

 I have been in a big discussion with the guys on my boat list about the
 right coax for running up the mast for VHF marine radio.
 
  
 
 Keeping in mind that we are talking about a 70' or so run going up the
 center of an aluminum mast, in a salt water environment, and the radio is
 limited to 25 watts.  
 
 Also keep in mind that when off shore this is a life line and the best
 possible send and receive is needed in an emergency situation.  
 
  
 
 So given the criteria what is the best possible coax to use knowing that
 thickness matters and bend radiuses may be tight?  Others on the list are
 saying just grab any old 8X type cable and you will be fine.  I say use
 something with very low loss and suggested small heliax.
 
  
 
 Any suggestions?
 
  
 
 Vern
 
 s/v Nirvelli
 
 KI4ONW





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Announcements from a PC...

2009-11-01 Thread n3dab
Don't know if you have Googled for any thing specific to your wants, but you 
might try this website and or contact Peter the author to see if any of his 
programs migh do the trick or possibly get a referral from him.  Try 
http://www.echoaddons.com/   LOL Maybe some one who works with the Handi capped 
9Speech impaired ) might be able to help also.  Just my thoughts. never hurts 
to think out of the box. 

Doug   N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9...@... wrote:

 Dave, Randy, and all.
 
  
 
 I know it's been a while since I first responded about this.  It has taken
 me a while to reach out for the originator of the program, and he in turn
 referred me to the user of it.
 
  
 
 To sum it up, I am not able to offer it.  The writer was all for it, but
 because of his work obligations, he cannot support it in any way, shape or
 form.  He didn't have the code anymore and thus referred me to the user.  I
 reached out for him and was also rebuffed.  He wanted no part of it at all.
 
  
 
 If things change in the future I can revisit this, but for now I apologize
 that I cannot be of any further assistance.  Sorry all.
 
  
 
 Mark - N9WYS
 
  
 
 From: David Murman 
 Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 8:01 PM
 To: Mark
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Announcements from a PC...
 
  
 
 Mark, I would like that info also and how they hooked it up to the
 controller. I maintain the KLUB repeaters here in Plano and definitely
 interested.
 
  
 
  
 
 David
 
 WA4ECM
 
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com  On Behalf Of Mark
 Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:35 AM
 
 Randy,
 
 One of the local clubs here runs a program that makes text-to-voice
 announcements, like capturing NWS bulletins and converting them to speech
 for the 2m repeater. They call the program M-5 and it was written by
 another ham who has since moved to Galena, IL.
 
 If this might be what you are interested in, I can contact both the guy who
 wrote the program and the guy who is employing it and see what they have...
 
 Mark - N9WYS
 
 - Original Message -
 From: ki4zji
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 4:19 PM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Announcements from a PC...
 
 Does anyone know of any software that would allow scheduled 
 announcements (either recorded voice or synthesized) through a 
 soundcard interface and remote radio?
 
 Thanks,
 Randy





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need wacom duplexer mod info

2009-11-01 Thread n3dab
I googled WACOM 604 duplexer and came up with a bunch of info., you might try 
the same.  I found a 2 page WACOM 604 flyer with the specs says the A,B and C 
cans are 80 tall, and the D can is 72 tall.  Logic would say shorten the 
inner rod 8, but loop size might be smaller and the harness cables may be 
different length as well.  LOL on your project.  Hope some one else has more 
info to help you out.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, ag4uw ag...@... wrote:

 Hello group!!  I am looking for someone that has info on mods for the wacom 
 604B duplexers to put them in the ham band 604D. And does anyone know how to 
 remove the the tuning rod from the wacom duplexers??? Does the big nut on the 
 top unscrew or can it be removed???  I am looking for info but have not been 
 able to find anything on doing this mod. If I can remove the copper rod from 
 the can I was going to try to cut it shorter,(If you know how long the tuning 
 rod is on the D model please let me know. It can not be cut off from the end 
 because it has finger stock on that end and will have to be cut off at the 
 top. If anyone has any info please let me know. if you have the info on how 
 long to cut the tunning rod off are know how long the tuning rod is on the 
 604D  or have any info on how to remove the rod please let me know. any info 
 you may have would be great.   Thanks Freddy  N4XW





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

2009-10-27 Thread n3dab
It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios 
(assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on each) thru 
a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type duplexer(s) are you 
suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just curious. 

Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson kf6...@... wrote:

 under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
 separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you are only
 going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall issues.
  You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I can
 think of.
  I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative close and
 only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some noise
 but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
 
  You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna without any
 problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry about
 really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
 
 On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ) kb1...@... wrote:
 
 
 
 
  The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 5
  or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
  ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would help
  to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
  Any further help is appriceated.
 
 
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com,
  Eric Lemmon wb6fly@ wrote:
  
   Jeremy,
  
   You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer. How far
   apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other radio?
  
   What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, far,
  more
   effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to be
   frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation in
   frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
  vertically
   as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best. Use
   double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
  
   Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have diode
   protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any mobile
  command
   post vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof-
  usually
   no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
   guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
   preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
   Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing
  
  
  
   This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the same
   calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two
  meter
   radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as to
  not
   over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom set
  up
   on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add. What would be
   the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage the
   receivers?
  
 
   
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

2009-10-27 Thread n3dab
I agree that simplex freq's. on each radio would work, in which a simple notch 
type duplexer or filter cavity would probably surfice.  But i got the 
impression that the original poster was referring to duplex mode on the radios 
which complicates things a bit with the hardware.  I don't see any problem with 
using 2 feedline and 2 antennas stacked or side by side with a little 
separation between the m as long as he isn't talking on both radios 
simultaneously. 

Doug   N3DAB  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Curtis demo...@... wrote:

 Probably referring to using a duplexer (certainly NOT a diplexer) to connect
 2 simplex frequency'd 2m transceivers to a single antenna.
 ?
 
 Commonly done
 
 Chris
 Kb0wlf
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
  buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
  Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 12:09 PM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing
  
  It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios
  (assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on
  each) thru a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type
  duplexer(s) are you suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just
  curious.
  
  Doug  N3DAB
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson kf6nfw@
  wrote:
  
   under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
   separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you
  are only
   going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall
  issues.
You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I
  can
   think of.
I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative
  close and
   only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some
  noise
   but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
  
You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna
  without any
   problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry
  about
   really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
  
   On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ) kb1req@ wrote:
  
   
   
   
The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more
  like 5
or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it
  would help
to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
Any further help is appriceated.
   
   
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-
  Builder%40yahoogroups.com,
Eric Lemmon wb6fly@ wrote:

 Jeremy,

 You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer.
  How far
 apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other
  radio?

 What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is
  far, far,
more
 effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to
  be
 frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed
  separation in
 frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
vertically
 as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best.
  Use
 double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.

 Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios
  have diode
 protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any
  mobile
command
 post vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the
  roof-
usually
 no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
 guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
 preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.

 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-
  Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-
  Builder%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
 Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-
  Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing



 This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of
  the same
 calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing
  another two
meter
 radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is
  needed as to
not
 over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an
  icom set
up
 on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add. What
  would be
 the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise
  damage the
 receivers?

   
   
   
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Yahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.32

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

2009-10-27 Thread n3dab
Can't argue with you there ,but then he (you) would have to go into the radios 
to split out the Tx and Rx from the single connector on the chassis. I didn't 
think he was in to rebuilding the radios or spending alot of money.  

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 skipp...@... wrote:

 
 
 You could combine two close spaced transmitters using a 
 hybrid and the right combination will work through one 
 duplexer.  Just throwing out one method... 
 
 s.  
 
  n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  It would be interesting to hear how you would connect TWO 2Mtr. radios 
  (assuming a standard .600khz split and a single antenna connector on each) 
  thru a duplexer(s) to a single feed line and antenna.  What type 
  duplexer(s) are you suggesting ?  Have you done this before ?  Just 
  curious. 
  
  Doug  N3DAB 
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Robinson kf6nfw@ wrote:
  
   under the description you give you can put them on top of each other
   separated by a 1/2 wave or better without any real problems. if you are 
   only
   going  to transmit on one at a time then you wont have any reall issues.
You will be able to run up to about 25 W without any problems that I can
   think of.
I run a couple radios here at home and have the antennas relative close 
   and
   only have problems when i kick up over 25W and then it is just some noise
   but nothing strong enough to kill the receive on the other rig.
   
You can still use a duplexer and run two rigs to same antenna without any
   problems as well. then you would only have the one coax to worry about
   really. tends to make things cleaner looking on the install too!
   
   On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:48 PM, Jeremy (KB1REQ) kb1req@ wrote:
   
   
   
   
The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 
5
or 10. The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a
ground-plane. My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would 
help
to be active one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
Any further help is appriceated.
   
   
--- In 
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com,
Eric Lemmon wb6fly@ wrote:

 Jeremy,

 You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer. How 
 far
 apart are the frequencies involved? How powerful is the other radio?

 What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, 
 far,
more
 effective than horizontal separation. If both radios are going to be
 frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation 
 in
 frequency, then the simple answer is: Separate the two antennas
vertically
 as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best. Use
 double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.

 Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have 
 diode
 protection on the front ends. After all, look at almost any mobile
command
 post vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof-
usually
 no more than a foot or so apart. Although major desense is almost
 guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
 preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.

 -Original Message-
 From: 
 Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
 Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
 To: 
 Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing



 This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the 
 same
 calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two
meter
 radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as 
 to
not
 over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom 
 set
up
 on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add. What 
 would be
 the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage 
 the
 receivers?

   
 
   
  
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna spacing

2009-10-26 Thread n3dab
Where are your antennas going to be placed ??   On a tower , on pole mast, on 
the roof, other ???  If i were going to mount 2 mobile antennas on a tower or 
pole i would try to fabricate an aluminum plate groung plane and mount one 
antenna on the top side and one one the bottom side  then jury rig a aluminum 
support structure to mount it to the tower.  Home Depot or lowes is a good 
source for aluminum angle,tube and sheet, but there are other sources as well.  
A little injunuity and imagination will get the job down.  I'll send a photo of 
one of the mounts i built for antennas on my roof that i use for digi-peaters. 
along with some other suggestions.   Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeremy (KB1REQ) kb1...@... wrote:

 
 The icom runs a max of about 65 watts but almost always less, more like 5 or 
 10.  The antenna I hope to set up is a mobile 5/8 waxe over a ground-plane. 
 My purpose is for skywarn activations, as an NCO it would help to be active 
 one two frequencies nearly simultainously.
 Any further help is appriceated.
 
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6fly@ wrote:
 
  Jeremy,
  
  You did not provide enough information to give you a good answer.  How far
  apart are the frequencies involved?  How powerful is the other radio?
  
  What I can tell you right away is that vertical separation is far, far, more
  effective than horizontal separation.  If both radios are going to be
  frequency-agile, that is, there may not always be a fixed separation in
  frequency, then the simple answer is:  Separate the two antennas vertically
  as much as you can, one over the other, and hope for the best.  Use
  double-shielded cable for feedlines on both antennas.
  
  Damage to the receivers is not likely, since most good radios have diode
  protection on the front ends.  After all, look at almost any mobile command
  post vehicle, and you'll probably see a dozen antennas on the roof- usually
  no more than a foot or so apart.  Although major desense is almost
  guaranteed when any one of the radios transmits, judicious use of
  preselectors (such as those made by DCI) can minimize it.
  
  -Original Message- 
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy (KB1REQ)
  Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:24 PM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna spacing
  

  
  This post does not necessarily relate to repeaters, but some of the same
  calculations can be applied. I am interested in installing another two meter
  radio in my shack and was wondering what kind of spacing is needed as to not
  over load either of the radio's receivers. I currently have an icom set up
  on a j-pole, and I have a 45 watt GM300 that I want to add.  What would be
  the best placement of antennas to reduce desense. or otherwise damage the
  receivers?
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cleaning coax corrosion

2009-10-05 Thread n3dab
Since you have to diconnect it at the antenna end (the almost unreachable place 
) and it is not for a repeater, why not just cut it back to where it is 
convenient to work on it (preferably indoors and weather protected) and provide 
a new piece of cable as a jumper to the antenna.  If you cut the old cable back 
far enough from the exposed end you should be able to get to clean braid and 
center conductor, and insert ing a barrel connector wont degrade your signal 
enough to worry about.   

Doug N3DAB   

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John johnk.mch...@... wrote:

 
 Hi,
 
 I need to replace a PL-259 on the end of a piece of RG-8U at the antenna 
 end. The coax shielding is severely corroded, I can cut back aways and 
 still reach but I need to clean the shielding so I can solder on a new 
 connector. Any suggestion to do this.
 This is on the roof of a building and the coax is routed around the 
 rampart to the antenna mount and almost impossible to replace.
 Before the cable cops jump on me it's not for repeater service.
 
 Thanks,
 
 John
 
 -- 
 John Mc Hugh, K4AG
 Coordinator for Amateur Radio  
 National Hurricane Center, WX4NHC
 Home page:- http://www.wx4nhc.org





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense?

2009-09-02 Thread n3dab
I've been following this thread on and off.  I was wondering if you tried 
replacing the 100' plus run of RG-214 with another cable.  Or if you have 
pulled the connectors on each end to see if they are properly installed.  (I 
have had connectors installed by the cable supplier that were bad.  in one case 
a direct short between the shield and center conductor because the cable wasn't 
properly trimmed, and in another case the shield was deformed during the 
installation and the distance between it and the center conductor was close 
enought to short when RF was applied but still not show a short when check with 
a VOM for continuity.)  All it takes is for a couple of strands of the shield 
braid to be in the wrong place when you key up. to cause all your greif.  Also, 
you might want to do the same with all the other cables (inspect and/or 
substitute 1 at a time).

Barring that I would suggest you change out every adapter/fitting and right 
angle connector you have in the system, from rptr. to antenna, one at a time to 
see if the problem lies there as well.  The 100' horizotal distance and 10' 
vertical distance are not where the problem is.  You have got a faulty 
component os sheilding problem.  

My 2 cents worth.

Doug  N3DAB 


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tahrens301 tahr...@... wrote:

 Thanks to all...
 
 I guess it could be corrosion at the antenna, but the one that
 is on it now is pretty simple,  not much opportunity for
 corrosion.  I am going to put up the 2nd DB-224 tomorrow 
 see what difference it makes... I don't really think it'll
 change much, but it will let me play with the matching unit
 I built  see if it works!
 
 Don - I can put the iso-tee in line,  feed the atten port
 into the spectrum analyzer.  It should show me if the xmtr
 is having problems.  However, the current antenna is a 
 perfect match - no reflected power at all, so I think the 
 xmtr 'should' be happy.
 
 The 100' may be the real problem, although everything has
 very well made cables, quality RG-214, N connectors, etc.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Tim  W5FN
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, purvissid purvissid@ wrote:
 
  You mentioned 100 ft hoz separation, I don't think that is enough, but 
  don't have a chart handy where I am now.  Sid. 
  
  
  
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tahrens301 tahrens@ wrote:
  
   Hi Jim  All,
   
   Thanks for the info  responses.
   
   I took down the 224  found that the N connector on the
   end wasn't quite up to snuff.  I am going to put a 
   ham antenna on it - think it's a ringo2 or some such thing,
   just to see how an antenna with good swr will work in the
   desense arena.
   
   Then I'll put up a different 224  see how it goes.
   
   I did see the posting about how to lower the frequency
   of a 224.  Not sure I want to go that route, but might
   in the end!
   
   I built a small matching unit that I'll try out... basically
   a tuner that will go between the duplexer  feedline.  
   
   One of the guys talked about using a smith chart  putting
   some stubs at the feed line which would change the matching.
   
   gee, lots of things to experiment with.  That's the fun of
   it no? :-o
   
   Thanks again,  I'll post my progress.
   
   Tim  W5FN
   
   
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown w5zit@ wrote:
   
One of the local repeater operators used an antenna at the top of a 100 
ft tower that got bent over during last winter storms.  He put up a 
temporary antenna at the tower base and is experiencing some really bad 
desense with the low antenna.

He is using a GE Mastr II base station repeater and had reasonable 
operation with little desense on the antenna 100 ft above the 
equipment.  The antenna only 15 ft or so above the equipment now and 
has the bad desense problem.  It would appear that the antenna is 
flooding the equipment with more RF than the shielding can handle.

BTW, take a look at some of the previous posts on modifying a DB-224 by 
adding a 2 inch extension to each end of each dipole to bring it down 
into the ham band.  The SWR does not go completely to 1:1, but does hit 
a minimum in the middle of the 2 meter ham band.  No change to the 
harness was required to move the antenna frequency.

73 - Jim  W5ZIT

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, tahrens301 tahrens@ wrote:

From: tahrens301 tahrens@
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna SWR = Desense?
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 2:03 PM






 





  Hi folks,



Just a bit of an update... got the 6 cavity Telewave

duplexer tweaked up - looks like it pretty much hit

the specs in the data sheet.



With a dummy load at the 'antenna' port, I used an

iso-tee to inject a signal at both

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense?

2009-09-02 Thread n3dab
I know the frustration your dealing with.  When you did your RF tests, were you 
keying the XMTR. thru the local mic. or with the rcvr. disabled, or were you in 
the full rpt. mode and using another radio (HT) or low power signal source?  My 
problems only showed up in the full rpt. mode, after i had checked everthing 
else in the rpt. disabled mode and everthing look great as far as forward and 
reflected power, etc.   Any way LOL again on locating the glitch.

Doug  N3DAB 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tahrens301 tahr...@... wrote:

 Hi Doug,
 
 I put the connectors on the hardline myself,  was very
 careful in doing so.  Also did an RF check with a dummy
 load on the end, and no loss/problems.
 
 I am going to concentrate on the actual connectors from
 the Quantar.
 
 thanks,
 
 Tim
 
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  I've been following this thread on and off.  I was wondering if you tried 
  replacing the 100' plus run of RG-214 with another cable.  Or if you have 
  pulled the connectors on each end to see if they are properly installed.  
  (I have had connectors installed by the cable supplier that were bad.  in 
  one case a direct short between the shield and center conductor because the 
  cable wasn't properly trimmed, and in another case the shield was deformed 
  during the installation and the distance between it and the center 
  conductor was close enought to short when RF was applied but still not show 
  a short when check with a VOM for continuity.)  All it takes is for a 
  couple of strands of the shield braid to be in the wrong place when you key 
  up. to cause all your greif.  Also, you might want to do the same with all 
  the other cables (inspect and/or substitute 1 at a time).
  
  Barring that I would suggest you change out every adapter/fitting and right 
  angle connector you have in the system, from rptr. to antenna, one at a 
  time to see if the problem lies there as well.  The 100' horizotal distance 
  and 10' vertical distance are not where the problem is.  You have got a 
  faulty component os sheilding problem.  
  
  My 2 cents worth.
  
  Doug  N3DAB 
  
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Batteries /Shelby HF (OT)

2009-09-01 Thread n3dab
Thanks, John.  I'll give him a call this evening.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, jo...@... wrote:

 Sorry,
 
 That was supposed to be a private reply.
 
 
 
  He is Robin Midgett, K4IDC - 615-301-1642 Call him tomorrow evening, he
  goes to bed early.
 
  John
 
 
 
  Some one posted a message a short while back about taking a load of
  batteries to the Shelby HF this coming weekend.  I can't find the
  original
  post and am hoping he reads this post.  I'm looking for 6 of the
  WP7.2-12
  (7.2amp/12v)if he has any and if he will be taking them to Shelby.
  Please
  contact me off list @ de_n3dab at tds.net
  Doug  N3DAB
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 





[Repeater-Builder] Batteries /Shelby HF (OT)

2009-08-31 Thread n3dab
Some one posted a message a short while back about taking a load of batteries 
to the Shelby HF this coming weekend.  I can't find the original post and am 
hoping he reads this post.  I'm looking for 6 of the WP7.2-12 (7.2amp/12v)if he 
has any and if he will be taking them to Shelby. Please contact me off list @ 
de_n3dab at tds.net 
Doug  N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas

2009-08-26 Thread n3dab
I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain 
folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band (similar to 
the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for use as a 
base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded dipole type, but 
am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole dimensions, stand off 
from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If someone has already 
built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me of list at  de 
underscore n3dab @ tds dot net (no spaces) if they are willing to share their 
knowledge.




[Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas

2009-08-26 Thread n3dab
Mark - To keep from repeating my self i'll refer you to my response to John's 
reply.  I appreciate your reply but your references were for Yagi's and 
colinear antennas and not applicable to what i had in mind of building, though 
the colinear antenna may be a fallback.  If Chuck Kelsey is amongst the readers 
of this post maybe he has some additional info on the 1.2 GHz dimensions i'm 
looking for.   Thanks again for your input.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9...@... wrote:

 Doug,
 
 Check out the articles on the companion website:
 http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/pdf/wr9aea-antenna-n9sn-hr09-79.pdf 
 http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html 
 
 and the master page:
 http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ant-sys-index.html#antennas 
 
 A real treasure trove of information!
 
 73 de Mark - N9WYS
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
 Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 11:14 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas
 
 I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain
 folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band (similar
 to the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for
 use as a base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded dipole
 type, but am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole dimensions,
 stand off from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If someone
 has already built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me of
 list at  de underscore n3dab @ tds dot net (no spaces) if they are willing
 to share their knowledge.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.67/2326 - Release Date: 08/25/09
 18:07:00





[Repeater-Builder] Re: 50-Ohm Pads

2009-08-26 Thread n3dab
I just use a 50 ohm dummy load on the open ports when tuning a duplexer, or 
leave one of the cables connected to the Xmtr. or Rcvr.  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Transue jtran...@... wrote:

 Bruce, Chuck,
 
 Thanks for the quick reply. It appears that minicircuits has
 everything covered. 
 
 Bruce, I could not tell whether you are a dealer or just happen to
 have some extra pads. My need is not specific yet, but I see that 6 dB
 and 30 dB pads are used quite often. 
 
 My use of the pads would most likely be to ensure a near-50-ohm
 impedance when making measurements or tuning a cavity, etc. 
 
 John
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
 buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey
 Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 8:47 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 50-Ohm Pads
 
 Not sure what your attachment was, it was all scrambled.
 
 Attenuators:
 
 http://www.minicircuits.com/products/attenuators_coax_fixed.html
 
 
 Chuck
 WB2EDV
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: John Transue jtran...@...
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 8:06 PM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 50-Ohm Pads [1 Attachment]
 
 
  Can anyone recommend a good source for 50-ohm pads? Also, 50-ohm
  variable attenuators.
 
  John Transue
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 __ NOD32 4367 (20090825) Information __
 
 This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
 http://www.eset.com





[Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas

2009-08-26 Thread n3dab
OK. Thanks anyway.  Just thought there might be some experimentors out there in 
RF land.   Do you think a 420-430 antenna work on the 3rd hanmonic, similar to 
using a 2 mtr. antenna with a 440 transmitter, as I have seen mentioned here on 
occaision   There isn't a lot out there in base/rptr. antennas in the 
Amateur or commercial market for 1.2 GHz. unless it is special order.



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey wb2...@... wrote:

 Sorry, I am of no help. I've never seen a folded dipole array for that band. 
 Not sure if anyone ever made one. My article was cloning a Signals brand 
 antenna with lengths changed to cover the ham band.
 
 Chuck
 WB2EDV
 
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: n3dab rb_n3...@...
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 2:17 PM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 1.2 GHz Base antennas
 
 
  Mark - To keep from repeating my self i'll refer you to my response to 
  John's reply.  I appreciate your reply but your references were for Yagi's 
  and colinear antennas and not applicable to what i had in mind of 
  building, though the colinear antenna may be a fallback.  If Chuck Kelsey 
  is amongst the readers of this post maybe he has some additional info on 
  the 1.2 GHz dimensions i'm looking for.   Thanks again for your input.
 
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9wys@ wrote:
 
  Doug,
 
  Check out the articles on the companion website:
  http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/pdf/wr9aea-antenna-n9sn-hr09-79.pdf
  http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html
 
  and the master page:
  http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ant-sys-index.html#antennas
 
  A real treasure trove of information!
 
  73 de Mark - N9WYS
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
  Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 11:14 AM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 1.2 GHz Base antennas
 
  I'm looking for any information and/or construction details for a hi-gain
  folded dipole omni-directional antenna in the 1.2 GHz Amateur band 
  (similar
  to the VHF design shown in the ARRL Handbook or the DB products line) for
  use as a base or repeater antenna.  I would like to  build the folded 
  dipole
  type, but am not to familiar with the way to compute the dipole 
  dimensions,
  stand off from the mast and vertical spacing of the dipole loops. If 
  someone
  has already built one successfully, I would appreciate them contacting me 
  of
  list at  de underscore n3dab @ tds dot net (no spaces) if they are 
  willing
  to share their knowledge.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.67/2326 - Release Date: 
  08/25/09
  18:07:00
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: duplexerhelp or a good recomendation

2009-08-01 Thread n3dab
Use the top antenna (celwave) for rec'v. and the mag mount mobile for Xmit.  
Use RG-214 or 1/2 heliax (not LMR) for cabling to antennnas.  minimize all 
jumpers andadapters and try to use silver plated fittings. try not to use any 
right angel connectors.  If short flexible jumper cables are needed use RG-142B 
or 1/4 -3/8 heliax. Do not use RG-58 or 59 in your system. Your isolation (?) 
problem may be due to poor cable/cannector choices. Reduce Xmit power if 
necessary to reduce any desense of the rcvr.  Make sure you have an adequate 
groung plane (like a 24 dia. galv. steel plate) for the mag mount to sit on 
and stand it off the tower leg at least 24.  You also might try inverting the 
mag mount so the antenna is on the bottom of the ground plane plate.  

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, agrimm0034 agrimm0...@... wrote:

 I am using a UHF GMRS repeater without a duplexer on 40 ft of tower. I use 2 
 antennas one of a Celwave 6db gain on the top as a tx antenna, and one 15 ft 
 up off the ground mag mount to use as a rx antenna. The tx radio is a 45 watt 
 and the rx on the rx radio is .35uv sensitivity. It seems to me that I don't 
 have enough isolation between the antennas and often have trouble getting 
 through the repeater. Am I out of my mind to look into getting a celwave 
 duplexer or is there any other ideas's that would fit my needs?





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

2009-07-28 Thread n3dab
Try a liberal application of Moth Balls and D-Con.   Both available at most 
super markets and home stores like Home Depot.  Place at various locations 
around the site interior. They Moth Balls can be placed inside and around the 
equipment cabinets.  The D-Con on the floor near or in interior corners and 
near interior openings used for entry/exit by the mice.  Check and replace 
perodically as the Moth Balls evaporate over time and the mice eat tihe D-Con 
then go off looking for water and die.

N3DAB


-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jed Barton j...@... wrote:

 Hey guys,
 I am sure many of you have been through this before.
 The evil mice decided to waunder in to my repeater sight.  Up until now they
 avoided my repeater, but when I went up there, I was less than pleased.
 They didn't chew any wires thank god, but they walked across the top of the
 icom rp4020, and left some presents if you know what I mean.
 I need some input, what's the best way to clean it up, anything in
 particular?
 All the covers were on, so I don't think they got inside, but haven't pulled
 the cover off yet.
 Any ideas?
 
 Thanks,
 Jed





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wacom WP-640-6 Duplexer help needed

2009-03-30 Thread n3dab
Try testing each cavity by itself, then test each Tee and each cable 
individually to see if you can isolate a bad cavity or component.  When testing 
each cavity try moving the tuning rod in and out to see if you have a dead spot 
from arcing or carbon build-up.  If that model has the capacitive tubes on the 
side of the cavity remove and clean all those components as well. If you can't 
locate any faulty components on the exterior then internal inspection will be 
necessary.  and it may be simpler to send it back to Wacom/Telewave for repair. 
 Also, I hope your using a service monitor with tracking generator or a signal 
generator and spectrum analyzer or some type of equipment that you can see the 
the freqency trace on as you feed it thru the cavities.

I have 2 similar 4 cavity sets here and the top and bottom plates appear to be 
press fitted to the round body.  I've beaten the tops off of several DB-40xx 
cavities and reworked them then put them back together but they are both press 
and riveted together and I would think easier to disassemble and replace then 
the Wacom cavities.  

Of course if the cavities are notching the signal you are trying to pass thru 
them that might make you think they are bad too.  LOL in finding the problem.

DougN3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Larry la...@... wrote:

 Would anyone on the list have any info
 for the Wacom WP-640-6 Duplexer.
 
 I realize that Telewave makes the TPRD-1556 and shows it as an equivalent
 However the cavity construction, cables and cavity port connections are 
 not the the same.
 
 Anyone know how these are constructed inside. 
 
 The duplexer doesn't appear to have been damaged or dismantled but we are
 unable to pass any frequency through them.
 
 Pointers welcome.
 
 Larry - N7FM





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which UHF Antenna to Buy?

2009-03-29 Thread n3dab
Try this web site for a radio propagation plot or map.  I f you have any 
problems using it email me direct - de_n3...@tds.net - and i'll try to help you 
out.

Doug N3DAB

- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k5in k...@... wrote:

 Hi,
 
 
 Now that I have clearly demonstrated my ignorance about multi bay dipole 
 antennas: Which one to buy for the following system.
 
 
 441.950 output, 2,700ft on a mountain with a 160ft tower.  Antenna will live 
 at the 140ft level fed by 78th inch hardline.
 
 I need coverage that will include myself 12 air miles away at 50ft ASL, plus 
 a turrane that varies in height from my level up and out to whatever distance.
 
 Do any of you with much more experience of antenna's such as the Decibel 
 Products have any suggestions?  Of course I could pay hundreds of dollars for 
 site plots and so forth but after all, this is amateur radio.
 
 
 Thanks for reading and your patience too.
 
 
 Brian





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which UHF Antenna to Buy?

2009-03-29 Thread n3dab
Ooops, forgot to put the website in the last message.
 
http://lrcov.crc.ca/cov.php?lang=en

It is free and allows you to play with your parameters.

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k5in k...@... wrote:

 Hi,
 
 
 Now that I have clearly demonstrated my ignorance about multi bay dipole 
 antennas: Which one to buy for the following system.
 
 
 441.950 output, 2,700ft on a mountain with a 160ft tower.  Antenna will live 
 at the 140ft level fed by 78th inch hardline.
 
 I need coverage that will include myself 12 air miles away at 50ft ASL, plus 
 a turrane that varies in height from my level up and out to whatever distance.
 
 Do any of you with much more experience of antenna's such as the Decibel 
 Products have any suggestions?  Of course I could pay hundreds of dollars for 
 site plots and so forth but after all, this is amateur radio.
 
 
 Thanks for reading and your patience too.
 
 
 Brian





[Repeater-Builder] Re: low band duplexer question

2009-03-29 Thread n3dab
My guess from looking at the schematic is that the tee's are for the grounded 
and ungrounded coaxial cable tuning stubs that were cut for the original 
freqency and have been apparently removed.   Some one else will have to fill 
you in on how to calculate the length, etc for making replacements.

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n...@... wrote:

 At 3/29/2009 14:09, you wrote:
 Ok, so I've got a nice looking db-4030 duplexer.
 Little 6m repeater project cooking.
 
 Now, I've got the tuning sheet and also the scan of a fax of a
 modification sheet for 6m.
 
 I also understand it's a reject only setup.
 
 My question is, what are the unterminated T connectors doing all over the
 harness?
 
 Please forgive the terrible pictures, I used my cheap motorcycle MP4 camera.
 
 There are 4 T connectors that only have a plastic cap over the female
 part.
 
 Just seems crazy to me.
 
 Check out the last page of 
 http://www.repeater-builder.com/db/db-4032-low-band-duplexer.pdf. 
 According to the table at the lower right, 6 cables on the DB-4032 (6 can 
 version of the DB-4030) are omitted for splits 1 MHz or greater.  Also, 
 unterminated T connectors @ VHF lowband are going to look pretty much like 
 opens, since the line length is very short.  Don't know how much leakage 
 you'd get with SO239s; I do know that female Ns left open won't leak, 
 especially @ 50 MHz..
 
 Check the schematic in the above referenced page  see if it matches what 
 you have, subtracting the 2 outside cans from the schematic.
 
 Bob NO6B





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-28 Thread n3dab








Extend the radials not less than 1/4 wave from the mast stub to the tip.  And 
bend them down at about a 30 degree angle.  Lone
ger radials probably wouldn't hurt (in 1/4 wave increments) but provides more 
wind load and aesthectic challenges.  $ equally space might be slightly better 
than3 but i doubt you would notice the difference.

Doug   N3DAB  


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebh...@... 
wrote:

 I am pretty sure HD has aluminum strips that will work just fine.  Should I 
 make the radials 1/4 wave , or longer?
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  Forgot to mention if you can't find alum. for the ground plane elements at 
  the local surpus yard or hardware store (HD or Lowes) see if you can find 
  the city or county sign shop (the people who maintain the stop, yield and 
  directional signs) as the may have pulls  or damaged signs you can talk 
  them out of.  These are fairly heavy gage but usually soft alum. alloy and 
  can be easily cut into strips with a carbide tipped blade on a small table 
  saw with out any damage to the saw.  Just make sure you put the alum. side 
  against the metal mast stub as the sign side is a decal and you may not get 
  the bonding you want for the radials.  
  
  Doug  N3DAB
  
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@ 
  wrote:
  
   Good point, much easier to use a couple of clamps, and I just happen to 
   have some stainless steel clamps here in the garage!  Thanks for the 
   advice.
   
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
   
Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large 
stainless steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between 
the clamp and metal antenna base (similar to what you see in the 
picture for the TDD-6082).  That is the way the Motorola and Station 
Master base station radials are atached.  Extend the aluminum radial 
metal about 1 above the top clamp, tighten the clamps and then fold 
the 1 projection over to cover the SS clamp band.  That way if the 
clamp loosens up a bit the radials wont fall off.

Doug   N3DAB  


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen 
stevegebhard@ wrote:

 Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks 
 like the general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not 
 even bother trying the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials 
 though, but with this antenna I could even drill some holes in the 
 collar that screws over the N connector and install radials that way. 
  I bet that will help with the radiation pattern a bit.  Thanks for 
 all the assitance, as always, this is an awesome group.  73;s
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ 
 wrote:
 
  You described mine like you were looking at it.
  
  - Original Message - 
  From: wb6dgn tallinson2@
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
  antenna 
  made by Motorola
  
  
   Hi Gerald and the group,
   I think I've got one of these antennas too.
   It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and 
   about an inch 
   in diameter at the base,
   coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 
   1-5/16 inch 
   diameter.
   A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an N 
   female 
   connector.
   The logo is a black rectangle with a white ellipse centered over 
   it. 
   There was probably a name written in that ellipse but it's no 
   longer 
   readable now.
   There is a serial number tag on the aluminum base but some of the 
   numbers 
   are no longer readable due to a clamp damaging the tag.
   It also has the radial assembly just as you describe.
   I see no other markings or frequency range marked on it but,
   if it was pulled from the system I think it was, most of the 
   channels were 
   in the 453/458 range
   with one or two in the 467 range.  I suspect it'll work just fine 
   on the 
   ham band.
   The mounting clamps are missing but they should be pretty easy to 
   scrounge; if anyone has spares, let me know.
   Where is the frequency range marked on the antenna?  If I know 
   where to 
   look,
   I'll try to clean a little of the dirt or oxidation to see if I 
   can find 
   it.
   Looks like a nice antenna.  There's an RFS version in the Tessco 
   catalog 
   that suggests that they might be the OEM parent of this antenna.
   Tom DGN
  
  
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar 
   wd0fyf@ 
   wrote

[Repeater-Builder] Re: What is this antenna???

2009-03-28 Thread n3dab
My first Db was a 410 in the same time period.  It had tubular di-poles and 
tubular stand-off's, not the stamp sheet type now used.  It had 8 pairs of 
di-poles (16 total) and was on a 2 section mast the same as the current DB-420. 
  I don't know what has only 6 di-poles an a 12' mast unless it is a home brew 
from a damaged antenna.  Everything I remember from the old DB catalogs for 
di-pole antennas was 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 di-poles.  Single sided arrays had 1, 2, 
4 and 8 and pairs had 2, 4, 8, and 16.

Doug   N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey wb2...@... wrote:

 I would have guessed that they went to tubing earlier than the 80's, but my 
 earliest Decibel antenna was around 1978-81 (they used tubing), so I can't 
 say with any certainty.
 
 Chuck
 WB2EDV
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Jeff DePolo 
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 10:03 AM
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] What is this antenna???
 
 
 
 If the elements are flat (not tubing), then it's a DB410. They stopped
 making them probably in the early 80's?
 
 --- Jeff





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-27 Thread n3dab
Sorry I was asleep at the keyboard last night. TDE-6082A is 8 feet long OA per 
moto. specs.  Photo of the TDD  is generic and the lower gain version may not 
have had radials.  However some alum. sheet strips projecting about 1/4 wave 
off the base and secured with a SS hose clamp will do the trick if you want to 
go to the trouble.  

Doug  N3DAB  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebh...@... 
wrote:

 Thanks Gerald, that sounds like the one, except for the one I have does not 
 have ground radials, and I don't see any place to install them either.  I was 
 contemplating changing the antenna to something like a Diamond F718A, it has 
 better gain, almost double over the one I am using now, plus it is designed 
 for the frequency I am on, I wonder if the small investment would yield 
 better coverage.
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ wrote:
 
  I have one of those in the garage. TDE-6082A It's about 7 feet long (I 
  didn't measure it) and has radials on it. Label says 460- 470. I used it 
  temporarily on a 443.275 machine here at the house for testing. SWR wasn't 
  bad and worked just fine.
  
  Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
  McPherson, Ks
  
  
  - Original Message - 
  From: gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:13 AM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna 
  made by Motorola
  
  
   That one is closer, but the length is wrong, and the one pictured has 
   ground radials, this one does not.  Without specifics I guess this is as 
   far as I can go.  What I am trying to do is see if this is the right 
   antenna for a ham repeater on 447.425/442.425 split.  As I said before, 
   the SWR is OK, but I wonder if it is just operating on a multiple, and I 
   am not getting the full gain that I should.
  
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
  
   Could be.  Motorola spec say OA length for the TDE-6082A is *'.  The 
   Hi-Gain specs for the TDD-6082A on the RB site don't give the OA lengths 
   for the different gain antennas, except to say max. length is about 22'. 
   Unless there is some indication of the Mfg. on the remaining portion of 
   the label or you can find more specs. for the Hi-Gain antenns it's just 
   a 
   guess at this point.
  
   Doug   N3DAB
  
  
   -- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hudson w6cbs@ wrote:
   
It could be a TDD-6082
   
See here:
   
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/mot-vhf-hi-gain-ant-specs.pdf
   
   
   
Bill - W6CBS
   
   
   
  _
   
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:52 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
antenna
made by Motorola
   
   
   
Mark
   
My info came from an old Moto. catalog. If it is about 8' OA long
long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile 
antenna.
   
Doug N3DAB
   
--- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com, Mark n9wys@ wrote:

 I'm confused. This was described initially as a repeater antenna 
 but if
I
 Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna. 
 Which
 are we talking about?

 Mark - N9WYS

 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab

 Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge. Maybe Celwave,or 
 possibly DB
 Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably 
 fill you
 in on that.

 Doug N3DAB

 --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
 wrote:
 
  Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1! Do 
  you
 know who made this for Motorola?
 
  --- In Repeater-Builder@ 
  mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
  
   It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz. If ti is working 
   properly 
   it
 would be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in   
 SWR in
 the 440 band but probably more then you would want to consider 
 having.
  
   Doug N3DAB
 --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
 wrote:

 Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz. I 
 cannot
 find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc. 
 The 
 last
 of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off 
 and
 unreadable). I have done some searching and cannot

[Repeater-Builder] Re: More on the Q2330 Duplexer

2009-03-27 Thread n3dab
The Q202 with the 7 dia cans would give you better results, i believe, higher 
Q and all that.  The hybrib ring type might be a PIA to retune but if you have 
the 4 cans with the Tuning Capacitor in the Loop Assembly tuning will be much 
easier and you should get 85 to 90 dB isolation per side.  Not  sure what the 
complete model no. is but there are some on eBay in one of the store listings 
(though the price is quite high for the Ham market).

Doug  N3DAB
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David Struebel wb2...@... wrote:

 With all of this discussion, is either the Q202 or its cousins or the new 
 Q2330 all with now 80 dB of isolation good enough for a 2 meter repeater with 
 a 0.6 MHz split?   Putting a new machine on the air and need to know if I 
 should go with a 6 cavity duplexer to give me the 100 or so dB isolation, and 
 albeit the higher insertion loss or can I stay with a 4 can duplexer with 
 typically 85 dB isolation and 1.5 dB insertion loss?
 
 In a quandry... most of my experience is with a Sinclair hybrid ring duplexer 
 which seems to work fine at a 25 watt level.
 
 
 73 Dave WB2FTX
   - Original Message - 
   From: John J. Riddell 
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:41 PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] More on the Q2330 Duplexer
 
 
 
   After checking the Sinclair Web site, I see that they have lowered the Tx - 
 Rx isolation
   on the Q 2330 duplexer to 85 Db.
   The original literature that I had claimed 100 Db.
 
   73 John VE3AMZ
 
   
 
 
 --
 
 
 
   No virus found in this incoming message.
   Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
   Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.29/2023 - Release Date: 03/25/09 
 18:54:00
 
 
 
 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.30/2026 - Release Date: 03/27/09 
 07:13:00





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-27 Thread n3dab
Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large stainless 
steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between the clamp and metal 
antenna base (similar to what you see in the picture for the TDD-6082).  That 
is the way the Motorola and Station Master base station radials are atached.  
Extend the aluminum radial metal about 1 above the top clamp, tighten the 
clamps and then fold the 1 projection over to cover the SS clamp band.  That 
way if the clamp loosens up a bit the radials wont fall off.

Doug   N3DAB  


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebh...@... 
wrote:

 Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks like the 
 general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not even bother trying 
 the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials though, but with this antenna 
 I could even drill some holes in the collar that screws over the N connector 
 and install radials that way.  I bet that will help with the radiation 
 pattern a bit.  Thanks for all the assitance, as always, this is an awesome 
 group.  73;s
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ wrote:
 
  You described mine like you were looking at it.
  
  - Original Message - 
  From: wb6dgn tallinson2@
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna 
  made by Motorola
  
  
   Hi Gerald and the group,
   I think I've got one of these antennas too.
   It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and about an 
   inch 
   in diameter at the base,
   coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 1-5/16 inch 
   diameter.
   A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an N female 
   connector.
   The logo is a black rectangle with a white ellipse centered over it. 
   There was probably a name written in that ellipse but it's no longer 
   readable now.
   There is a serial number tag on the aluminum base but some of the numbers 
   are no longer readable due to a clamp damaging the tag.
   It also has the radial assembly just as you describe.
   I see no other markings or frequency range marked on it but,
   if it was pulled from the system I think it was, most of the channels 
   were 
   in the 453/458 range
   with one or two in the 467 range.  I suspect it'll work just fine on the 
   ham band.
   The mounting clamps are missing but they should be pretty easy to 
   scrounge; if anyone has spares, let me know.
   Where is the frequency range marked on the antenna?  If I know where to 
   look,
   I'll try to clean a little of the dirt or oxidation to see if I can find 
   it.
   Looks like a nice antenna.  There's an RFS version in the Tessco catalog 
   that suggests that they might be the OEM parent of this antenna.
   Tom DGN
  
  
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ 
   wrote:
  
   The radials just clamp on. Each one is bent to reach to the next. Small 
   bolt
   fasten them together around the base.
  
   Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
   McPherson, Ks
  
   - Original Message - 
   From: gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:41 AM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
   antenna
   made by Motorola
  
  
Thanks Gerald, that sounds like the one, except for the one I have does
not have ground radials, and I don't see any place to install them 
either.
I was contemplating changing the antenna to something like a Diamond
F718A, it has better gain, almost double over the one I am using now, 
plus
it is designed for the frequency I am on, I wonder if the small 
investment
would yield better coverage.
   
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@
wrote:
   
I have one of those in the garage. TDE-6082A It's about 7 feet long (I
didn't measure it) and has radials on it. Label says 460- 470. I used 
it
temporarily on a 443.275 machine here at the house for testing. SWR
wasn't
bad and worked just fine.
   
Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
McPherson, Ks
   
   
- Original Message - 
From: gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:13 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater
antenna
made by Motorola
   
   
 That one is closer, but the length is wrong, and the one pictured 
 has
 ground radials, this one does not.  Without specifics I guess this 
 is
 as
 far as I can go.  What I am trying to do is see if this is the right
 antenna for a ham repeater on 447.425/442.425 split.  As I said 
 before,
 the SWR is OK, but I wonder if it is just operating on a multiple, 
 and
 I
 am not getting the full gain that I should

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-27 Thread n3dab
Forgot to mention if you can't find alum. for the ground plane elements at the 
local surpus yard or hardware store (HD or Lowes) see if you can find the city 
or county sign shop (the people who maintain the stop, yield and directional 
signs) as the may have pulls  or damaged signs you can talk them out of.  These 
are fairly heavy gage but usually soft alum. alloy and can be easily cut into 
strips with a carbide tipped blade on a small table saw with out any damage to 
the saw.  Just make sure you put the alum. side against the metal mast stub as 
the sign side is a decal and you may not get the bonding you want for the 
radials.  

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebh...@... 
wrote:

 Good point, much easier to use a couple of clamps, and I just happen to have 
 some stainless steel clamps here in the garage!  Thanks for the advice.
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  Do your self a big favor and don't drill any holes.  Use 1 or 2 large 
  stainless steel hose clamps, slip 3 or 4 aluminum radials up between the 
  clamp and metal antenna base (similar to what you see in the picture for 
  the TDD-6082).  That is the way the Motorola and Station Master base 
  station radials are atached.  Extend the aluminum radial metal about 1 
  above the top clamp, tighten the clamps and then fold the 1 projection 
  over to cover the SS clamp band.  That way if the clamp loosens up a bit 
  the radials wont fall off.
  
  Doug   N3DAB  
  
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@ 
  wrote:
  
   Yes, that sounds like the antenna I have exactly, must be it.  Looks like 
   the general concensuss is to keep this one in service and not even bother 
   trying the Diamond antenna.  I don't have the radials though, but with 
   this antenna I could even drill some holes in the collar that screws over 
   the N connector and install radials that way.  I bet that will help with 
   the radiation pattern a bit.  Thanks for all the assitance, as always, 
   this is an awesome group.  73;s
   
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ wrote:
   
You described mine like you were looking at it.

- Original Message - 
From: wb6dgn tallinson2@
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 9:16 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
antenna 
made by Motorola


 Hi Gerald and the group,
 I think I've got one of these antennas too.
 It has a white fiberglass radome, just under 7 feet long and about an 
 inch 
 in diameter at the base,
 coupled to an aluminum bottom section about a foot long and 1-5/16 
 inch 
 diameter.
 A protective sleeve of the aluminum unscrews to expose an N female 
 connector.
 The logo is a black rectangle with a white ellipse centered over it. 
 There was probably a name written in that ellipse but it's no longer 
 readable now.
 There is a serial number tag on the aluminum base but some of the 
 numbers 
 are no longer readable due to a clamp damaging the tag.
 It also has the radial assembly just as you describe.
 I see no other markings or frequency range marked on it but,
 if it was pulled from the system I think it was, most of the channels 
 were 
 in the 453/458 range
 with one or two in the 467 range.  I suspect it'll work just fine on 
 the 
 ham band.
 The mounting clamps are missing but they should be pretty easy to 
 scrounge; if anyone has spares, let me know.
 Where is the frequency range marked on the antenna?  If I know where 
 to 
 look,
 I'll try to clean a little of the dirt or oxidation to see if I can 
 find 
 it.
 Looks like a nice antenna.  There's an RFS version in the Tessco 
 catalog 
 that suggests that they might be the OEM parent of this antenna.
 Tom DGN


 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Pelnar wd0fyf@ 
 wrote:

 The radials just clamp on. Each one is bent to reach to the next. 
 Small 
 bolt
 fasten them together around the base.

 Gerald Pelnar WD0FYF
 McPherson, Ks

 - Original Message - 
 From: gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:41 AM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater 
 antenna
 made by Motorola


  Thanks Gerald, that sounds like the one, except for the one I have 
  does
  not have ground radials, and I don't see any place to install them 
  either.
  I was contemplating changing the antenna to something like a 
  Diamond
  F718A, it has better gain, almost double over the one I am using 
  now, 
  plus
  it is designed for the frequency I am

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-26 Thread n3dab
Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge.  Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB 
Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you in 
on that.

Doug  N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebh...@... 
wrote:

 Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1!  Do you know 
 who made this for Motorola?
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz.  If ti is working properly it would 
  be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in SWR in the 440 
  band but probably more then you would want to consider having.
  
  
  Doug  N3DAB
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@ 
  wrote:
  
   Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz.  I 
   cannot find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc.  
   The last of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn 
   off and unreadable).  I have done some searching and cannot find any 
   information on a Motorola brand antenna.  It is a fiberglass stick about 
   6 foot in length, with a N connector, and no ground radials.  Does anyone 
   out there have some infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find 
   it?  Thanks to all, and have a great day!
  
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-26 Thread n3dab
Mark

My info came from an old Moto. catalog.  If it is about 8' OA long
long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile antenna.  

Doug N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9...@... wrote:

 I'm confused.  This was described initially as a repeater antenna but if I
 Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna.  Which
 are we talking about?
 
 Mark - N9WYS
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab
 
 Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge.  Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB
 Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you
 in on that.
 
 Doug  N3DAB
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
 wrote:
 
  Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1!  Do you
 know who made this for Motorola?
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
  
   It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz.  If ti is working properly it
 would be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in   SWR in
 the 440 band but probably more then you would want to consider having.
   
   Doug  N3DAB
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
 wrote:
 
 Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz.  I cannot
 find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc.  The last
 of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off and
 unreadable).  I have done some searching and cannot find any information on
 a Motorola brand antenna.  It is a fiberglass stick about 6 foot in length,
 with a N connector, and no ground radials.  Does anyone out there have some
 infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find it?  Thanks to all,
 and have a great day!





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna made by Motorola

2009-03-26 Thread n3dab
Could be.  Motorola spec say OA length for the TDE-6082A is *'.  The Hi-Gain 
specs for the TDD-6082A on the RB site don't give the OA lengths for the 
different gain antennas, except to say max. length is about 22'. Unless there 
is some indication of the Mfg. on the remaining portion of the label or you can 
find more specs. for the Hi-Gain antenns it's just a guess at this point.

Doug   N3DAB


-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hudson w6...@... wrote:

 It could be a TDD-6082
 
 See here:
 
 http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/mot-vhf-hi-gain-ant-specs.pdf
 
  
 
 Bill - W6CBS
 
  
 
   _  
 
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3dab
 Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:52 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need information on a UHF repeater antenna
 made by Motorola
 
  
 
 Mark
 
 My info came from an old Moto. catalog. If it is about 8' OA long
 long with a N connector as he described on it it's not a mobile antenna. 
 
 Doug N3DAB
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 yahoogroups.com, Mark n9wys@ wrote:
 
  I'm confused. This was described initially as a repeater antenna but if
 I
  Google the Motorola part number, I see pictures of a mobile antenna. Which
  are we talking about?
  
  Mark - N9WYS
  
  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab
  
  Negative, but my guess would be Phelps Dodge. Maybe Celwave,or possibly DB
  Products. Maybe some of the other Guru's on the site can probably fill you
  in on that.
  
  Doug N3DAB
  
  --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
  wrote:
  
   Thanks Doug, actually I checked SWR on 442 Mhz and it is 1.2:1! Do you
  know who made this for Motorola?
   
   --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 yahoogroups.com, n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
   
It's a TDE-6082A, 5db gain, 460-470MHz. If ti is working properly it
  would be good for GMRS as is. Don't know what you would find in   SWR in
  the 440 band but probably more then you would want to consider having.

Doug N3DAB
  --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
 yahoogroups.com, gebhardstephen stevegebhard@
  wrote:
  
  Hi all, I have a UHF repeter antenna that was in use on 463 Mhz. I cannot
  find any information as to frequency range, max power, gain, etc. The last
  of the model # is E-6082A (The first part of the label is worn off and
  unreadable). I have done some searching and cannot find any information on
  a Motorola brand antenna. It is a fiberglass stick about 6 foot in length,
  with a N connector, and no ground radials. Does anyone out there have some
  infromation on this antenna, or know where I can find it? Thanks to all,
  and have a great day!
 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2220E

2009-03-23 Thread n3dab
Yes, but we modified/replaced  the loops in the cavities to get better 
performance.  No changes were made to the harness as I recall.  I don't recall 
the Pass/Rejectfigures at the moment (but they were comparable to other 4 
cavity 2 mtr. duplexersor slightly better, but the duplexer has been operating 
on the K4SLB 2 mtr. rptr. in Kissimmee Fl for the last year and a half.  You'll 
need access to a service monitor with a tracking generator at least to make the 
mod.  It's a reasonably simple mod. and all that was required was some #14 Ga. 
bare copper wire, a soldering iron and your time and access to the SM.  Other 
may have different ideas or suggestions.

Doug   N3DAB
 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Terry wx3m.te...@... wrote:

 Does anyone have experience using this model on 2 meters? Do they provide 
 enough practical isolation for single antenna, 600kc split?
 
 (Sinclair Q2220E 4 Cavity VHF BpBr Repeater)





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel dipole array sweeps

2009-03-22 Thread n3dab
No luck accessing the website.

Have you tested the DB420.  I know they are pretty broad banded.  I have a 
damaged one and only the top half is useable.  What type of impedence mismatch 
am I looking at if I feed the top half at the mid point connector.  And it if 
is way off, how would I correct it to bring it back to 50 Ohms +/- ?? 

Doug  N3DAB 



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel dipole array sweeps

2009-03-22 Thread n3dab
Jeff ,

I'm interested, however, I can't pull up the website you posted below for some 
reason.  

Also I'm curious about your findings with regard to using the upper half of 
atennas like the DB420 and impedance you are seeing at the mid point connector. 
I'm assuming the entire antenna presents a 50 +/-ohm load at the original feed 
point but what impedance do you actually see if you using the top half (of a 
damage antenna)and feed it at the mid-point connector ?  Thanks 
  
Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo j...@... wrote:

 
 I'm in the process of putting up a remote receiver for a 440 ham repeater.
.
 
 The document can be found here:
 
 http://www.broadsci.com/Antenna Sweeps r1.pdf
 
 doc.
 
   --- Jeff WN3A





[Repeater-Builder] Intermod. question

2009-03-18 Thread n3dab
Thanks to Chuck, Mark,and Greg for the suggestions on different lubricants to 
use.  This will give me something to research and check-out.  Thanks again.   
Doug /n3dab



[Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-400 and Belden 9914 DuoBond

2009-03-18 Thread n3dab
LMR400: Ctr. cond. is copper clad alum./ Dielectric is Closed Cell Foam 
PolyEthylene. (ccfpe)? Shield is Alum. foil (Not sure if it is bonded to the 
dielectric or not) Jacket is Polyethylene Class 111A.

Belden 9914:  Ctr. Cond. is Copper./ Jacket is PVC i believe./  Shield is Alum. 
foil Bonded to dielectric and Braid is Tinned copper i believe./ Dielectric I'm 
not sure about but it is very dense and closed cell.

You can find all the specs. on the Belden and Times Cable websites.

Doug  n3dab

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, James Delancy ctra...@... wrote:

 Does anybody know any actual differences between these two cables (other 
 than manufacturer, the obvious and the fact that the Belden actually 
 seems to have a solid copper center conductor whereas the LMR-400 seems 
 to be possibly steel core)?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Please don't flame me ... I know better than to use these in duplex 
 service ... I just want to know more about them!
 
 James WJ1D





[Repeater-Builder] Intermod. question

2009-03-17 Thread n3dab
A recent post concerning intermod created by rusty bolts, washers, etc. caught 
my attention the other day.  Someone suggested using Lithium Grease on and 
between the components when assembling them.  I understand the logic behind the 
suggestion, but I'm wondering if there is any other grease product that would 
be suitable and might hold up better to exosure to the sun, rain, etc. 
(something as heavy or heavier then wheel bearing grease) and still have the 
electrical conductivity of the litium.  

Doug /n3dab



[Repeater-Builder] OFF TOPIC - DOD Ends Sale of Expended Military Brass to Remanuctures

2009-03-16 Thread n3dab
This post is OFF TOPIC, but if you value your 2nd Amendment rights you should 
read and act on this as you see fit.  I recieved this from a friend and thought 
it was important enough to make an exception to the rule.  Please let this be 
the only post on this subject on this site as the owner has granted me 
permission to post this item. I apologize for the length of the post and thank 
Kevin for his permission.

DOD Ends Sale of Expended Military Brass to Remanufacturers*

Sunday, March 15, 2009

/AND SO IT BEGINS.../

We all wondered when it was going to start.

When the new administration would make their move against us as gun owners. Oh, 
everyone got upset about HR45--I'll bet I got over 100  e-mails warning me 
about this draconian gun registration bill that had been introduced in Congress.

I was really glad to see Tom Gresham, host of Gun Talk Radio, an editor, 
writer, television host on Self-Defense TV, and one of the foremost gun 
spokespersons, come out and tell everyone to stop worrying about legislation so 
absolutely over-the-top--it would never get out of committee.

Tom said save your energy for when we really need it--don't expend it trying to 
warn everyone in your e-mail list about legislation that would go nowhere.

Now, Tom just interviewed me, and Larry Haynie, owner of Georgia Arms 
(www.georgia-arms.com http://www.georgia-arms.com/), on Gun Talk 
(www.guntalk.com http://www.guntalk.com/)--and Tom agrees, now is the time to 
...unleash the hounds... by which he means start e-mailing and writing your 
senators and congressmen.

Now it has come clear...now we know what they intend to do.

It is an end-run around Congress. They don't need to try to ban guns--they 
don't need to fight a massive battle to attempt gun registration, or limit 
assault weapon sales.

Nope. All they have to do is limit the amount of ammunition available to the 
civilian market, and when bullets dry up, guns will be useless.

Think we jest?

Here are copies of two letters sent to Georgia Arms just Thursday 
evening--effectively cancelling a contract he had to purchase 30,000 pounds of 
expended military brass in .223, 7.62mm, and .50caliber:

   
/Dear Valued Customer:

Please take a moment to note important changes set forth by the Defense 
Logistics Agency:

Recently it has been determined that fired munitions of all calibers, shapes 
and sizes have been designated to be Demil code B.As a result and in
conjunction with DLA's current Demil code B policy, this notice will serve as 
official notification which requires Scrap Venture (SV) to implement mutilation 
as a condition of sale for all sales of fired munitions effective immediately. 
This notice also requires SV to immediately cease delivery of any fired 
munitions that have been recently sold or on active term contracts, unless the 
material has been mutilated prior to sale or SV personnel can attest to the 
mutilation after delivery. A certificate of destruction is required in either 
case.

Thank you,

DOD Surplus
15051 N Kierland Blvd # 300
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
/

 ** 

 

/March 12, 2009

Larry Haynie
Georgia Arms
PO Box 238
Villa Rica, GA 30180

Re: Event 7084-6200:

Dear Larry Haynie,

Effective immediately DOD Surplus, LLC, will be implementing new requirements 
for mutilation of fired shell casings. The new DRMS requirement calls for DOD 
Surplus personnel to witness the mutilation of the property and sign the 
Certificate of Destruction.  Mutilation of the property can be done at the 
DRMO, if permitted by the Government, or it may be mutilated at a site chosen 
by the buyer. Mutilation means that the property will be destroyed to the 
extent prevents its reuse or reconstruction. DOD Surplus personnel will 
determine when property has been sufficiently mutilated to meet the 
requirements of the Government.

If you do not agree with the new conditions of your spot sale, please sign the 
appropriate box provided below stating that you do not agree to the new terms 
and would like to cancel your purchase effective immediately. If you do agree 
to the new terms please sign in the appropriate box provided below to 
acknowledge your understanding and agreement with the new requirements relating 
to your purchase. Fax the signed document back to (480) 367-1450, emailed 
responses are not acceptable.

Please respond to this request no later than close of business Monday, March 
16th, 2009.

Sincerely,

Government Liquidation.
/

  **   

Got that? From now on, remanufacturers of military brass will not be able to 
buy surplus brass from DOD--actually from Government Liquidators, llc.--the 
corporation that sells surplus materials for the U.S. government. At least, not 
in any form recognizable as once-fired brass ammunition.

Now all brass ammunition will have to be shredded, and sold as scrap.

Georgia 

[Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 controllers

2008-10-27 Thread n3dab
Anyone out there have any NHRC-2 controllers (preferrably un built in 
kit form) they want to part with.  Please send me an email at de_n3dab 
AT tds DOT net with the qty. and price, if you do.  Thanks  Doug N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] DB antenna question

2008-10-26 Thread n3dab
I'm running out of usable antenna mounting space here and was wondering 
if anyone has tried to do the folloing and with what results :

1. Superimpose a complete set of DB420 elements with the harness on a 
DB224 antenna mast, where both antennas arrays were active and each fed 
by its own rptr./duplexer.  The elements on each band would be offset 
90 degrees from each other. 

2. Split a DB420 and feed the top half and bottom half independently 
with separate feedlines,rptrs and duplexers.  I realize I would lose 
some antenna gain (9.2 Db to 6 Db) and some filter cavities for each 
system might be required. 

3. Super impose a second set of DB420 elements, with independet feed 
line, on an existing DB420 antenna, but offset 90 degrees from the 
original set.

If combining antennas as posed above is practical then I could gain 
additional space for 1 or more additional rptr's. or at least I could 
make the site look a little less cluttered. 

Thanks in advance for any constructive comments. 

Doug  N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709   



[Repeater-Builder] DB antenna question

2008-10-23 Thread n3dab
I'm running out of antenna mounting positions at my site. Has anyone 
tried any of the following ideas and if so what were the results ?  
The intent here is to run 2 rptrs. using a common mast to support 2 
antennas.

1. Mounting the dipoles and harness from a UHF DB420 on the same mast 
as a VHF DB224, or vice versa. (UHF and VHF antennas on the same 
mast)  

2. Mounting the dipoles and harness from a DB420 on the same mast of 
an existing DB420.(2-DB420 UHF antennas on the same mast)

3. Taking an existing DB420 antenna and feeding the upper and lower 
halves with separate feedlines to make 2-6 Db antennas on the same 
mast. The lower harness section would be replaced with with the upper 
harness section from a junk antenna. 

In 1. and 2. the dipoles of each antenna would be at right angles 
to the existing antenna.  In 3. the overall gain of the single 
antenna would be reduced to about 6 Db for the upper and lower 
halves.  Additionally extra filter cavities would probably be 
required to keep the 2 rptrs. using the antennas from interfering 
with each other.

If any of the above ideas are practical this would allow me to recoup 
some additonal mounting positions or at the least reduce the clutter 
of antennas I have now.
 
All constructive comments will be appreciated. 

Doug   N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709 



[Repeater-Builder] Maybe a little OT

2008-10-14 Thread n3dab
I'm putting Echolink on my rptr. I wanted to run the Echo Time program 
also, but found out from KH2D that it is no longer available, since he 
took a lightening strike last July on his system/server or something.  
From what I gather, he has no plans on reactivating it.  Now i'm 
looking for another program that works like Echo Time and is compatible 
with Echolink.  Does anyone know of a program  that is available ??   
Thanks   Doug /N3DAB  



[Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone panels

2008-06-24 Thread n3dab
RE your message to Sk8ipp - Its not 2x3 method it is a 3x2 method. 
the first 3 digits are 356 the last 2 are 00 to 99. and you have to 
triy all of them to find the code it is locked up o( ei: 35600, 
35601, 35602, etc.) you also have to wait at least 5 seconds between 
tries.  Once you find the right code then you can enter the program 
mode and repogram everything including the code.

Doug  N3DAB   





--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Dietrich 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks for the reply skipp,
 I had already seen your site from a google search.
 The 23 trick only puts the panel in the tone translation mode and 
you can't change anything else
   - Original Message - 
   From: skipp025 
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:21 PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone 
panels
 
 
 
   Mike, 
 
   Check out my free web page on the subject... and after reading 
   it I can answer questions as I am/was a Service Station for CSI 
   Tone Panels. The back door code information is available on the 
   page below. 
 
   http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic/so02010.html 
 
   and check out the Super 32 and CSI Plus information on the 
   same sonic page section. 
 
   http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic
 
   cheers, 
   skipp 
 
   skipp025 at yahoo.com 
 
Mike Dietrich M.DIETRICH@ wrote:
   
Hi group,
Does anyone know of a backdoor code or a way to reset the access
   code on the CSI-32 (not comm spec) tone panels?
Any word on where the company went for support?
They were in Lynnwood, Washington

Thanks,
Mike
   





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna

2008-06-24 Thread n3dab
For anyone looking for a DB mast to mount their dipoles and harness 
on, check out all you commercial radio shops for damaged or pulled DB 
antennas.  Don't worry about what band they are on - all you wan't is 
the mast anyway.  DB's are sleeved internally at the center joint 
with exposed ends of the upper and lower mast sections being cut at a 
45 degree angle.  The sleeve is secured in the top mast section and 
slides into the bottom section about a foot.  the top and bottom are 
secured together with 2 SS hose clamps.  The base is also sleeved 
internally for clamp reinforcement.

Another source would be a metal fabricator or aluminum supplier and 
purchase a 20' section of 1 3/4 0r 2 heavywall aluminum tube and 
mount your dipoles on it. Wall thickness should be 1/8 thick minimum 
top to bottom.  If you can also pick up a 24 long section of tube to 
slip up into the bottom to reinforce the clamping area all the better.

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Ron,
  
 Thanks for the mounting information. I also lack the DB224 Mast 
that the four dipoles mount on. From my research the original is two 
pieces about twelve feet long that I believe bolt together, the 
diameter I have not been able to find. From the ones I have seen the 
mounting pole is quite robust. Do you have any pole stock that you 
could recommend that would hold the DB224 on a side mount 
configuration? As I recall although the mast was very rigid, it was 
quite lightweight.
  
 Thanks JIM  KA2AJH
  
  
  
  
  
   _  
 
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wright
 Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 12:23 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
  
 Jim,
 
 The DB224 is usually supplied with 2 clamps where each clamp 
attaches to the DB224 mast and the other side clamps to the 
tower/mounting pipe. I believe these are made for 2-1/2 pipe.
 
 At www.tessco.com you can see pictures of these clamps and also 
purchase them although they are not cheap. They are very rugged 
galvanized clamps with 3/8-1/2 bolts 8 or so long and nuts.
 
 I would recommend looking on e-bay or someone here that might have 
them.
 
 Another mount is side mounts. For DB224 18 off the tower is 
typical. These have V shaped pieces one at each end of 2 pipes. The V 
is clamped to the tower and the other end the DB224 is clamped. You 
really need 2 mounts for this, one at the bottom and one near the 
top. Usually the top mount is a single pipe with C/U clamps to keep 
the antenna from swaying and the bottom holds the antenna weight.
 
 The DB 224 can be top mounted without the fear of the swaying in 
the wind damaging it unlike fiberglass antennas. I like putting top 
and bottom mounts when one can, but if top mounted not done for 
obvious reasons (there is no top, hi).
 
 73,ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:ka2ajh%40gmail.com com
 Date: 2008/06/24 Tue AM 11:11:02 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
 
  
 Hi Ron Another Question Please: I was fortunate enough to buy a 
good DB224 without the support mast. After following the opinions on 
wind loading, etc. I am wondering what can be used for a support mast 
and where the masting might be purchased? Any ideas?  Thanks JIM  
KA2AJH   - Original Message - From: Ron Wright To: Repeater-
Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 7:47 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 
Reasonably low wind load antenna 
  
 Tony,
 
 First the Ringo-Ranger does not have the 7 dbi gain. To think a 
smaller 12 ft antenna would have about the same gain as one the size 
of a 4 bay dipole is not realistic. One note of info...antenna 
manufactures, especially from Japan, lie all the time. I would not 
use such harsh words except after years of this junk something needs 
to be said. I is said here on this board all the time for many know 
antenna performance here, hi.
 
 Your wind loading limits will require a smaller, lower gain 
antenna. If ice is a problem the Ringo-Ranger will probably not last 
that long.
 
 I would recommend going to www.tessco.com, a distributor of 2-way 
gear, and check thru their antenna section. They have a number of 
finnne manufactures with their specs.
 
 73, ron, n9ee/r
 
 From: Tony VE6MVP [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:tony%40ve6mvp.com com
 Date: 2008/06/23 Mon PM 10:28:11 EDT
 To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com 
yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
 
  
 Folks
 
 We're moving a VHF amateur repeater to a 96' Trylon self 
supportingtower.  The overwhelming opinion is that our current 210C4 
four bayfolded dipole would be too much of a weight and wind load

[Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone panels

2008-06-24 Thread n3dab
Sorry for the typo's but i guess you got the main idea.  You have to 
read between the lines in the manual to find it (that is if you have 
the manual) if not there is one on the RB Site somewhere for the 32 
and super 32. and i know i sent a copy of the 32plus to someone who 
was going to post it also but i still can't find it.  Lots of uck and 
i hope that solved the problem.

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Dietrich 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks Doug,
 The 23 is what skipp suggested by holding 23 then enter.
 This just allows you into the tone translation programming mode and 
you can't make any other changes in the params.
 
 I didn't even think about trying all of the last 2 digit combo's to 
find the right one, i'll try that.
 
 Tnx,
 MikeKB5FLX
 Specialized Communications
 
   - Original Message - 
   From: n3dab 
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 12:23 PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi tone 
panels
 
 
   RE your message to Sk8ipp - Its not 2x3 method it is a 3x2 
method. 
   the first 3 digits are 356 the last 2 are 00 to 99. and you have 
to 
   triy all of them to find the code it is locked up o( ei: 35600, 
   35601, 35602, etc.) you also have to wait at least 5 seconds 
between 
   tries. Once you find the right code then you can enter the 
program 
   mode and repogram everything including the code.
 
   Doug N3DAB 
 
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Dietrich 
   M.DIETRICH@ wrote:
   
Thanks for the reply skipp,
I had already seen your site from a google search.
The 23 trick only puts the panel in the tone translation mode 
and 
   you can't change anything else
- Original Message - 
From: skipp025 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:21 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: anyone know backdoor to csi 
tone 
   panels



Mike, 

Check out my free web page on the subject... and after reading 
it I can answer questions as I am/was a Service Station for CSI 
Tone Panels. The back door code information is available on the 
page below. 

http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic/so02010.html 

and check out the Super 32 and CSI Plus information on the 
same sonic page section. 

http://www.radiowrench.com/sonic

cheers, 
skipp 

skipp025 at yahoo.com 

 Mike Dietrich M.DIETRICH@ wrote:

 Hi group,
 Does anyone know of a backdoor code or a way to reset the 
access
code on the CSI-32 (not comm spec) tone panels?
 Any word on where the company went for support?
 They were in Lynnwood, Washington
 
 Thanks,
 Mike

   





[Repeater-Builder] Replacement loops for VHF db cavities

2008-04-19 Thread n3dab
Think I may have asked this before, but does any one have a source for 
replacement Pass/reject loops for the DB40XX series VHF cavities.  
This would be the loop with the variable Johanson ceramic capaciter 
incorporated for adjusting the Notch. The cavities the loops mount in 
are about 20+/- tall and 4+/-in dia. and the loops mount in a recess 
in the top end.  Any info concerning the constructio of same would be 
appreciated also.  73's   Doug  N3DAB  



[Repeater-Builder] Micor repeater encoder and decoder boards

2008-02-21 Thread n3dab
I'm trying to locate a TLN5731A  PL encoder board and a TRN6002A  PL 
decoder bd. for a UHF Micor Single User Repeater Station.  Any one have 
a working set laying around that they would like to part with ?  If so 
contact me off list please. 

Thanks
Doug  N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Gmrs Repeater

2008-01-22 Thread n3dab
This in response to shady1070's original question and Gary's reponse.

Unless I've been misinformed for the past 30+ years the maximum 
autorized output power for GMRS is 50 watts from the Xmtr.(Base, 
Mobile and Repeater).  There are power limitations on the 
interstitial freqs. but Repeaters are only permitted on the 8 
designated pair $62/467.550 thu .725 in 25 KHz steps.   Re: the 
original question about the rptr./controller set up I would suggest 
the Kenwood TKR-850 which has everything in one package Contoller, 
CWid, ctcss/dcs, computer programable, etc. and the Kenwood can be 
reprogammed down to the 440 band.   GMRS rptrs. are not REQUIRED to 
ID, the GMRS user is, however if the all users operate under a single 
authorization/call sign CWid is allowed.  Also, running a beacon type 
messages, voice or CWID, may be construed as non-directed traffic 
(broadcasting) by the FCC.   There are many problems aaociated with 
building and installing a repeater including site 
location/acquisition, types of antennas, feed line, and duplexers to 
name a few.  I believe you have a pretty good learning curve ahead of 
you.  Wher are you located Shady? 

Doug  N3DAB / WPRX486 / WPJL709

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 well, first off, assuming your repeater is land based and qualifies 
as a
 fixed station (they usually do) then your output power is limited 
to 15
 watts output, CFR Title 47 Part 95.135(d).
 Gary
 
 shady1070 wrote:
 
  I Am looking to put a 40 watt repeater on Gmrs.  I Know very 
little
  about repeaters.  I am looking for something That is Pc 
Programmable
  and also my biggest concern is about a controller.  I want A Nice
  controller that does voice and I want to have the capabilities of 
a
  phone patch for later use on 440. How do you connect the 
controller to
  a repeater etc..  Can anybody recommend some stuff and help me 
out.  I
  cann't find anybody locally that can really halp me with this 
project.
 
  Thanks
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 





[Repeater-Builder] DB VHF Cavity loop assemblies

2008-01-20 Thread n3dab
I'm looking for 4 to 6 loop assemblies for replcement on a DB-4048 VHF 
duplexer.  Freq. range not important as I can rebuilb or replace the 
copper loops.  Assembly condition is not critical as long as the SO-239 
threads are good and the assembly will seat in the 1.25 dia. recessed 
hole on the duplexer top plate.  Anyone have any old junk DB cavities 
that you could scavenge the loop assemblies from ?  

Also does anyone have any photos, drawings or assembly details on how 
the loop assembly for the DB4960/4062 is put together (Ie: how is the 
tuning capacitor installed on the loop assembly?) My old catalog phots 
are not very clear. 

TIA for any assistance.

Doug  N3DAB  reply direct to [EMAIL PROTECTED]



[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR-750 rptr.

2008-01-03 Thread n3dab
Can the tpye 1 TKR-750 Rptr. (146-174) be programmed and work on 
144.570 Rx and 145.170 Tx (or even down to 143 to work on the MARS 
freq's.) if they are found to be NTIA compliant.   Or should I really 
be looking for the the Type 2 rptr. (136-150)for this purpose.

Also can anyone name a source or 2 for Kenwood rptrs that would give a 
discount price to Ham Clubs,ARES, etc.  

Thanks
Doug N3DAB 



[Repeater-Builder] Help: need to ID part on PSC-1422 Pwr. Sup.

2007-12-06 Thread n3dab
Can anyone ID CR101 on the regulator board of a Wilson PSC-1422 Power 
Supply.  What ever it was, it is completly burnt up, and I don't have a 
manual or schematic to look it up.

Thanks
Doug N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] Wilson PSC-1422 Power Supply

2007-11-30 Thread n3dab
Does anyone have any information on a Wilson PSC-1422 power supply ?  
This is a rack mount un metered unit and has the Astron name stamped 
on all (3) of the SCR's.  I am curious about the max. and continuous 
duty rating for this unit. and amybe a schematic of it if it varies 
very much from a similar sized Astron PS.  I'm guessing it 22-25 Amps 
max. and 14-15 Amps continuous. Does this sound right ?

Thanks 
Doug  N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?

2007-11-23 Thread n3dab
I am using a TK-705D for the receiver side of a low power 2mtr. rptr.  
The 705 was working fine (Tx and Rx) and was sitting on the workbench 
idling in Rcv. mode ,with no mic. attached and no signal being fed into 
it thru the antenna port, and suddenly went into the TX mode.  I have 
powered it on and off, removed it from the rptr. and powered it up 
indepndent of anything else but it remains locked up in the Tx mode.  I 
cannot even do a reset on it as it won't accept the program when I 
power it up.  

I have been able to disable the power module and the IC-6 chip that 
preceeds it and disable the diode Tx/Rx antenna switch to eliminate any 
RF output, but something else inside the circuitry is telling the radio 
to stay in the TX mode.   Can anyone advise me how to completely 
disable the Xmit side, so I can get it back in the Rx mode and continue 
to use it for the rptr. rcvr.? 

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Doug   



[Repeater-Builder] Re: TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?

2007-11-23 Thread n3dab
keith - I've looked at the jack on the front and there is nothing 
obvious shorting any og the pins.  Checked pins against each other 
and against chassis grd  with vom and no continuity between any 2 
pins.  Only continuity is @ pin 2 and 4 to chassis which should be 
normal as Pin 2 is a direct grd (E)and Pin 4 is Mic. grd (ME).  Any 
other thoughts ?  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Keith McQueen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Did you check for a shorted pin in the mic connector?
  
  
 Keith McQueen
 801-224-9460
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab
 Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 3:56 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] TK-705D problem - slightly OT ?
 
 
 
 I am using a TK-705D for the receiver side of a low power 2mtr. 
rptr. 
 The 705 was working fine (Tx and Rx) and was sitting on the 
workbench 
 idling in Rcv. mode ,with no mic. attached and no signal being fed 
into 
 it thru the antenna port, and suddenly went into the TX mode. I 
have 
 powered it on and off, removed it from the rptr. and powered it up 
 indepndent of anything else but it remains locked up in the Tx 
mode. I 
 cannot even do a reset on it as it won't accept the program when I 
 power it up. 
 
 I have been able to disable the power module and the IC-6 chip that 
 preceeds it and disable the diode Tx/Rx antenna switch to eliminate 
any 
 RF output, but something else inside the circuitry is telling the 
radio 
 to stay in the TX mode. Can anyone advise me how to completely 
 disable the Xmit side, so I can get it back in the Rx mode and 
continue 
 to use it for the rptr. rcvr.? 
 
 Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
 Doug





[Repeater-Builder] Re: KENWOOD TKR 750 Installation and problems-HELP!!

2007-10-31 Thread n3dab
I believe it is called The Natioal Elevator Code which supplements 
the N.E.C.  and it doesn't permit anything other than elevator 
equipment,wiring and controls in either ther shaft or equipment 
rooms.  

N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 On Oct 30, 2007, at 3:09 AM, skipp025 wrote:
 
  ... which is a big Non-Code no-no.   If anything ever happens in
  those buildings and it's traced back toward pretty much any non-
code
  installed wire or equipment within the elevator shaft... you will
  need multi million dollar liability insurance.  It happened to at
  least one very large Company I know about... now long out of 
business.
  s.
 
 What's non-code or dangerous about it?  Last I looked, there's 
very  
 little in the NEC about RF cabling.
 
 It's considered low-voltage and thus, almost unimportant in 
most  
 States.
 
 Of course, the nannies keep passing laws against just about 
anything,  
 so maybe I missed it.
 
 Genuinely curious (how stupid are our codes now?),
 
 --
 Nate Duehr, WY0X
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]





[Repeater-Builder] Replacement Ferrite Cores

2007-09-24 Thread n3dab
Greetings All - Looking for some replacement ferrite cores. Need 2 
sizes: 6mm x 3mm  and 8mm x 4.5mm.  Need a couple of each size. Can 
anyone out there provide a source for these or maybe part with a few 
from the personal stock ??  Thanks 

Doug   N3dab



[Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer

2007-06-07 Thread n3dab
Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I 
would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page 
or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for 
operation in the UHF band.  I assume the loops and harness would 
require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or 
the aluminum extruded cavities.   

PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 
series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for 
the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable.

Thanks 
Doug N3DAB 



[Repeater-Builder] UHF T-1500 series pass band loops

2007-06-05 Thread n3dab
Looking for 2 to 4 sets of pass band loops for UHF (450-470) Motorola 
T1500 series cavities (2 loops per cavity = 1 set). Anyone have any to 
spare ?  If so furnish quantiy and price per set, if applicable.

Doug  N3DAB   



[Repeater-Builder] CSI -32 info for the group (SOT)

2007-05-29 Thread n3dab
Many months ago I asked the group about a back door method for the 
CSI-32 multi-tone controller panelto enter the progamming mode, as I 
had a friend with a CSI-32 in which the access code was reprogammed 
and the new code had been lost or forgotten.  I recieved several 
replies from the group but nothing seemed to work.  Fortunately we 
were able to pull the chip out of one I had, read and copy copy it 
and insert it into my friends unit to get it working again.  

Below is copy of a procedure that I recently forwarded to another 
friend with a CSI-32 who had a similar prolem, this will work with 
out copying someone elses chip, (The info below should be edited and 
posted in the CSI section of the RB site for future reference.)  This 
may also work on the CSI-32 super and CSI-32Plus as well.

The link below will take you to the Repeater Builder Website and 
the .PDF file for the CSI- 32 Controller Manual.   
 
If you don't have a copy of the manual, print out a complete copy for 
yourself first.  Then carefully read paragraph 5.10 on resetting the 
Programming Access Code.  The Default setting is35687.  It states 
that you can only change the last 2 digits of the code, however you 
can also use the A,B and D characters from the 4th row of the DTMF 
pad in the modified the access code string.
 
If you can't enter the program mode using the Default No. 35687 then 
enter 35600 thru 35699 (100 combinations) or 356 A/B/D 0 thru 9 
(30 combinations) or 356 0 thru 9A/B/D (30 combinations).  There 
are 160 total combinations.  You must wait 5 seconds between entering 
these combinations.   After you finally locate the correct 
combination to unlock the Controller and place it into the 
programming mode write that number down on a peice of paper, and/or 
reprogram the access code back to the Default No.35687 so you don't 
have to go thru the whole process again if you lose or forget the 
code.

Hope this helps someone else out there who has a CSI controller 
collecting dust because they can't reprogram it.
 
73  Doug  N3DAB 
http://www.repeater-builder.com/other-mfrs/csi-32.pdf
 
  



[Repeater-Builder] Re: WTT or sale Andrew dB224 antenna

2007-04-05 Thread n3dab
Chuck - Try David Jones K4DLJ  he is in your general area and does 
tower work.  E-mail k4dlj at bellsouth dot net or look him up QRZ dot 
COM and see if you can find a tele. no. for him in the white pages.  
He may have some tower pulls that will meet your requirements.  I 
pick up a clean DB224E from him about 2 years ago.

Doug  N3DAB / WPRX486



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, chuckmf1135 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, allan crites wa9zzu@ 
 wrote:
  Sounds like what im looking for but the shipping would be to 
great. I
 live in N.C. near Charlotte, this antenna breaks down into 2 - 10'
 sections.  I found out UPS will not ship it and that means it would 
 have to go by freight shipping which is unresonable.
 
 Chuck/N4aeq
 
 
  Have Scala 890-960 Mhz paging antenna  will trade. Appears to 
be  
 model OGB3-900 and is 60 long and I measured VSWR on my N/A of 
1.5:1 
 over 890-990MHz range. Advise further.

  
  chuckmf1135 nbc@ wrote:
Have Andrew dB224 4 bay vertical in good condition, 
ready 
 for use in
  155-165mhz,was used on 158mhz. Would like to trade for 9xx mhz 
paging
  antenna or any old Cushman plugin or parts. This is long 21' but 
 breaks
  down to around 10 foot. Phasing coax in in very good condition 
and has
  NM connector.
 





[Repeater-Builder] wanted ISD1420p Voice chip

2007-03-31 Thread n3dab
I am looking for 2 or more ISD 1420p voice chips.  Does anyone have any 
they can part with.   Contact me on or off the group with price and 
quantity available if you can help.  TIA

Doug  n3dab @ arrl . net 



[Repeater-Builder] Mitrek mobile repeaters

2007-03-13 Thread n3dab
Someone posted a message recently saying they had several of the 
Canadian made Motorola Mitrek Mobile Repeaters in service and they were 
used for link radios.   I can't seem to locate that post for some 
reason and would like to contact the person and see if he has any 
service manuals ,etc. for them as I have one of those radios also but 
no info. on it.   Can anyone could give me the message # or furnish 
some contact info.   Thanks for any help.

Doug   N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] Old Sinclair Duplexer

2007-03-09 Thread n3dab
Anyone have any info on the following VHF duplexer listed below.  The 
data was copied from the label.  It is inside a large enclosure, is 
quite old, but serviceable.  I don'thave the duplexer in my possesion 
at this time so what you see below is all I have. 

I can't find this Model no. on Google, Repeater Builder or the Sinclair 
sites.  

I would like to know what the tuning range is and what type duplexer 
this is (pass/pass-reject/reject ,hybrid ...?).Thanks in advance 
for any help.

Sinclair Radio Lab 
Filter Duplexer 
FL150-4 Serial Number 513-7 
TX 160.950 
RX 161-520 

Doug   N3DAB



[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE PA numbers

2007-02-18 Thread n3dab
Thanks for the reply. There appears to be a conflict between your 
reply and the one from Eric which states it is a 65W continuous duty 
vhf PA  and cites the LBI no. for it.  Will have to do more research. 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Butch Kanvick [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 The 19D424786G6 is a 40 watt (simplex) UHF power amplifier, and I 
was unable 
 to find the other number.
 I hope this helps, Butch, KE7FEL/r
 
 
 From: n3dab [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE PA  numbers
 Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 03:40:20 -
 
 Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6
 
 Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within 
the
 band and output power.  TIA





[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE PA numbers

2007-02-18 Thread n3dab
Thanks Eric, I'll check the RB library as suggested.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 The 19D417524G4 is a 100/110 watt continuous-duty PA for the 150.8-
174 MHz
 band.  See LBI-30282B here:
 
 www.repeater-builder.com/ge/lbi-library/lbi-30282b.pdf
 
 The 19D424786G6 is a 65 watt continuous -duty PA for the 138-174 
MHz band.
 See LBI-30748C here:
 
 www.repeater-builder.com/ge/lbi-library/lbi-30748c.pdf
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab
 Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:40 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE PA numbers
 
 Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6
 
 Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within 
the 
 band and output power. TIA





[Repeater-Builder] Re: S-Com voting encoder

2007-02-18 Thread n3dab
Only other info I have is the unit ser. no. and mfg. date of 5-15-
75.  All this and previous info is from mfg's.label on rear of unit. 
The unit has 2-12 pin molex tpye connectors and a 20 position 
terminal strip on the rear. A series of switches and knobs on the 
front control power vol.,squelch,channel etc.  There are no other 
mfg's. id on the unit other than S-Com.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 That's an odd one... but it might be related to the CSC Encoder of 
 which there is a manual on the Repeater Builder web page in the 
voter
 section. 
 
 When RCA gave up Land Mobile there were a number of smaller 
companies 
 that I consider off shoots of their LMR Product Line. Someone out 
 there knows the the history of Coded, Codec, CSC, RCATec, TacTech 
 (might be TacTec or TacTeck (we always called them tic-tac. Vega 
 Signaling and others... 
 
 Some of those companies are still around, just merged into larger 
 animals with different names. 
 
 Some day I'll get those RCA radios out of the back room to see what 
 they do... they looked like GE Master radios and I could bear to 
 see them go into the dumpster when they arrived as trade in... 
 
 some day... 
 
 s. 
 
  n3dab rb_n3dab@ wrote:
 
  Can anyone furnish a copy of the service/operation manual for a S-
Com 
  voting encoder , Model # VEC-2B, Mfg. by S-Com/TPE in Sun Valley, 
Ca.
  
  TIA for any help.
 





[Repeater-Builder] GE PA numbers

2007-02-17 Thread n3dab
Can anyone ID these GE M2 PA numbers: 417524G4 and 424786G6

Would like to know if these are VHF or UHF, the freq. range within the 
band and output power.  TIA  



[Repeater-Builder] S-Com voting encoder

2007-02-17 Thread n3dab
Can anyone furnish a copy of the service/operation manual for a S-Com 
voting encoder , Model # VEC-2B, Mfg. by S-Com/TPE in Sun Valley, Ca.

TIA for any help.



[Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR7000 UHF Service Manual

2007-01-25 Thread n3dab
Does anyone on the list have a service manual for the UHF Vertex VXR 
7000 Repeater (#E-13689000) that they can part with or copy and mail.  
Thanks in advance.   N3DAB 



[Repeater-Builder] Wanted Micor elements on 443.750 rptr pair

2007-01-21 Thread n3dab
To the group,

Lookig for good working set of xtaled elements for a Micor Rptr. 
Station. 

I need 1. KXN1052A Tx on 443.750 Mhz and 1. KXN1024A Rx on 448.750 
Mhz.  I will consider just the xtals if thats all you have but prefer 
complete factory or ICC re-xtaled and compensated elements. 

TX Fo = Fc/36 = 12.326388  and for Rx Fo = Fc-11.7/24 = 18.208333

Please contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you have a good pair of 
pulls just laying around.

N3DAB 



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

2006-05-31 Thread n3dab
Jim,

First add all the System Gains (SG)in dbW measurements, from that 
figure you then subtract all your Sytem Losses (SL)in dbW, the result 
equals your ERP in dbW.  Convert the ERP in dbW back to ERP in Watts. 

Before you start adding the SG you must convert your Tx output pwr. 
from Watts to dbW. (ie 50w=17.0dbW)  I use a Conversion Table that is 
included in some old Rptr. coord, papers, however you should be able 
to find a conversion table or the mathematical(sp?) formula on Google 
or on one of the Rptr. Bldr. site pages. 

Therefore the following example:

1. 50w Tx out=17.0dbW + ant. gain 9.2 dbW = Tot. SG 26.2dbW

2. Ant. FL lgth. /100 x loss per 100' at you freq band = Tot/FL loss 
in db. (50 /100x1.04 = .52dbW (1/2LDF @ 450mhza=1.04db/100').

3. Duplexer insertion loss = 1.5 dbW

4. Other losses = 0.0dbW

5. Tot. SL (.52+1.5) = 2.02dbW

6. Tot. SG (26.2) - Tot. SL (2.02) = Tot. ERP in dbW (24.18dbW)

7. Convert ERP in dbW back to ERP in Watts (24.18 = 250+ Watts ERP.

Note: Some interpolation of the tables I use is required.

Feedline looses per 100' @ given freq. are generally provided by the 
mfg.  If you would like a copy of my work sheet (Tables included) 
email me direct. 

N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM 

 
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 n3dab [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You can go to the FCC site and pull Part 95 like I just did and 
read 
 it for yourself.  
 
 I'm running 50w from my Micor rptr. xmtr. with 1.5db loss from a 
MOt. 
 1504 duplexer into 50' of 1/2' LDF4-50 heliax to a DB410 9.2db 
gain 
 omni antenna.  This all calculates out to approx. slightly more 
than 
 250W ERP.  This machine has been in service for at least 25 years 
on 
 462/467. 675 in the Atlanta Ga. area
 
 N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM
 Doug,
 Can you show us your formula for converting power output to ERP? I 
guess, power out(watts) - (1.5db)+(50' of LDF$-50)+9.2db=ERP output.
 
 More details please.
 Thanks.
 73's,
 Jim   Kh6jkg.
 
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

2006-05-31 Thread n3dab
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
   I question that 9.2 dB antenna, is it actually 9.2 dBd or 9.2 
  dBi ?? 
 
   Neil - WA6KLA 

Neil,

From the DB products data sheet posted by Steve NU5D it's dBd.  But 
the work sheet I use doesn't differenciate.  The work sheet is page 2 
of the South East Repater Association (SERA) Fm 03 used for 
coordination purposes. 

See  http://www.sera.org/Form_03_Jan07_2006.pdf 

I use it for reference because it's simple and pretty straight 
forward for some one like me who doesn't have the knowledge and 
experience of others, like yourself.

73
Doug N3DAB

































 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

2006-05-30 Thread n3dab
Last time I checked Part 95 it said 50w max. from the tansmitter not 
50w ERP from the antenna. When did it change?  With the min. losses 
for the duplexer,connecters and feedline and max, gain on antenna and 
radiation pattern he could achieve 200w ERP or more. 

Doug N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Problem #1 is that on 462.675 / 467.675  GMRS you cannot go over 50 
 watts ERP  with a proper antenna system you should be able to 
achieve 
 50Watts ERP with your current machine.
 
 Problem #2 is that you cannot reverse the input /output on repeater 
 pairs since it will wreak all sorts of havoc with co-channel users 
and 
 on GMRS there are probably lots of them.
 
 If you are an emergency response entity that needs that type of 
output 
 power, why not get a coordinated pair on special emergency or in 
the 
 business band.
 
 National Emergency Assistance Radio Team Headquters wrote:
  Date :05-29-2006
  Time :8:00 PM CST
 From :Lige Turner 
  Repeter-Builder 
  I,m Am A GMRS Radio Operater
  And I Would Like More On How 
  To Build A UHF-FM Land Mobile
  Radio(LMR)Repeter That Will Put
  Out 100 Watts ERP Output And Would
  Work On The Input Frequency 462.675 Mhz
  CTCSS Tones 141.3 Hz And Output Frequency
  467.675 Mhz With A CTCSS Tone 141.3 Hz 
  And The Repeter Controle I Would Reather
  Not Have Any DTMF Tone Cods Becose Some
  One Here In Kansas City Missouri Has A
  Tone Burst System And Has Try To Get Into
  My Low Power Repeter Whitch Is Only 25 Watts
  ERP Low Power Yes This Is For The Emergency
  Frequency On GMRS Radio My Call Sine KAF-2106
  And I,M The Head Of A Not-For-Profit Organization
  National Emergency Assistance Radio Team,Inc.
  I Will Probley Buy The Parts One At A Time Becose
  Of How Much The Cost Of What I Need To Build
  A Good Repeter It May Take A While To Get It On
  The Air And Shut This 25 Watt ERP Repeter Down
  
  Lige Turner KAF-2106 
73 All
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   
  Yahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
   
  
  
  
  
  
 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wount To Find Out About Buiding A New Repeter

2006-05-30 Thread n3dab
You can go to the FCC site and pull Part 95 like I just did and read 
it for yourself.  

I'm running 50w from my Micor rptr. xmtr. with 1.5db loss from a MOt. 
1504 duplexer into 50' of 1/2' LDF4-50 heliax to a DB410 9.2db gain 
omni antenna.  This all calculates out to approx. slightly more than 
250W ERP.  This machine has been in service for at least 25 years on 
462/467. 675 in the Atlanta Ga. area

N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 I didn't think so...
 
 Johnny wrote:
  It hasn't changed. Some people get confused about the difference 
between 
  ERP and straight RF power.
  Johnny
  
  n3dab wrote:
  Last time I checked Part 95 it said 50w max. from the tansmitter 
not 
  50w ERP from the antenna. When did it change?  With the min. 
losses 
  for the duplexer,connecters and feedline and max, gain on 
antenna and 
  radiation pattern he could achieve 200w ERP or more. 
 
  Doug N3DAB/WPRX486 GMRS/WPJL709 LM
 
 
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Vincent Caruso 
vcaruso@ 
  wrote:
 
  Problem #1 is that on 462.675 / 467.675  GMRS you cannot go 
over 50 
  watts ERP  with a proper antenna system you should be able to 
  achieve 
 
  50Watts ERP with your current machine.
 
  Problem #2 is that you cannot reverse the input /output on 
repeater 
  pairs since it will wreak all sorts of havoc with co-channel 
users 
  and 
 
  on GMRS there are probably lots of them.
 
  If you are an emergency response entity that needs that type of 
  output 
 
  power, why not get a coordinated pair on special emergency or 
in 
  the 
 
  business band.
 
  National Emergency Assistance Radio Team Headquters wrote:
 
  Date :05-29-2006
  Time :8:00 PM CST
  From :Lige Turner 
  Repeter-Builder 
  I,m Am A GMRS Radio Operater
  And I Would Like More On How 
  To Build A UHF-FM Land Mobile
  Radio(LMR)Repeter That Will Put
  Out 100 Watts ERP Output And Would
  Work On The Input Frequency 462.675 Mhz
  CTCSS Tones 141.3 Hz And Output Frequency
  467.675 Mhz With A CTCSS Tone 141.3 Hz 
  And The Repeter Controle I Would Reather
  Not Have Any DTMF Tone Cods Becose Some
  One Here In Kansas City Missouri Has A
  Tone Burst System And Has Try To Get Into
  My Low Power Repeter Whitch Is Only 25 Watts
  ERP Low Power Yes This Is For The Emergency
  Frequency On GMRS Radio My Call Sine KAF-2106
  And I,M The Head Of A Not-For-Profit Organization
  National Emergency Assistance Radio Team,Inc.
  I Will Probley Buy The Parts One At A Time Becose
  Of How Much The Cost Of What I Need To Build
  A Good Repeter It May Take A While To Get It On
  The Air And Shut This 25 Watt ERP Repeter Down
 
 Lige Turner KAF-2106 
   73 All
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Service Manuals

2006-04-12 Thread n3dab
Wanted:  If anyone reading this post has a spare copy or original 
service manual for the following Motorola radios please email me 
direct with what you have and cost plus postage.

Maxtrac UHF/VHF mobile
Mitrek Low Band 30-50mhz
MSF5000 UHF repeater
TEK-5f Test Set

TIA
Doug  N3DAB at ARRL dot NET







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question

2006-04-08 Thread n3dab
73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing related to 
dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the hypothetical 
situation below:

Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, and a 
coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the antenna, 
the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and much 
higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on the mast 
to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other things 
aside.

All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
@ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
or some other arrangement

TIA
Doug  N3DAB








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

2006-04-08 Thread n3dab
Charles,

Thank you for response. It prety much confirms my suspitions but I 
didn't have a modeling program to check it out   My inent was to 
install the dipoles as indicated in my 2nd arrangement 1 E./1 w. and 
2 S. in that order top to bottom.  Your option 1 and 2 are clear but 
I'm not sure I fully understand the arrangement in you 3rd option.  
Can you give me the orientation from top to bottom of the 4 dipoles 
based on the compass bearing each is pointed to, with N. being 0 
degrees for option #3.  

Again thanks and 73

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Charles Miller ham-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Doug,
 
 I have 3 patterns for you.
 
 First, If you do not want any signal to go N  and the signal 
equal around
 to the South then take the dipoles and place them in a 60 degree
 orientation. The 2 on the top section should be 180 from each other 
to the
 East and West and the 2 on the bottom should set at a 60 degrees. 
The 2
 lower dipoles should be aligned 30 degrees to the east and West of 
the South
 alignment.
 
 This will give you a fairly good pattern for the area that you want 
to
 cover.
 
 The second pattern that will work is to place the dipoles in a 70 
degree
 pattern. Using South as the Zero degree alignment, 1 each at 35 
degrees to
 the East and West and the others at 70 degrees past that. This will 
leave a
 150 degree arc or 75 degrees off North. This will provide a little 
to the
 North but not very much.
 
 The first or second will work very well. If you need a little more 
to the
 south then take the top at 180 degrees and the bottom towards the 
south at
 90 degrees. This will give you a little more gain to the South than 
to the
 East and West.
 
 We had to do this in South Texas to keep a FED signal out of 
Mexico. The
 first is the one we used and it is still in use today.
 
 Charles Miller
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: n3dab [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:23 PM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question
 
 
  73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing 
related to
  dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the 
hypothetical
  situation below:
 
  Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, 
and a
  coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the 
antenna,
  the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and 
much
  higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on 
the mast
  to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other 
things
  aside.
 
  All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
  2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
  @ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
  1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
  or some other arrangement
 
  TIA
  Doug  N3DAB
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

2006-04-08 Thread n3dab
Charles,

Sorry for the confusion and being a little dense this evening.   After 
reading your option 3 several more times I see you are saying the same 
thing I said in my arrangement #2.

Again thanks 

Doug  N3DAb
 










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Henry UHF PA tuning

2006-04-05 Thread n3dab
Greetings to the group,

Does any one have any specific info on retuning a Henry C200D10R UHF 
450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ?   The PA requires 5-10w to 
produce 100-200w out.  I can see nothing inside that is adjustable, 
all the components are fixed value and securely soldered in place.  
The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing of the coils on 
4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input  and 2 near the output.  

The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from a 3rd party, had 
it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return for use.  A simple 
bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that (using a IC2400 mobile 
on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w out but as I 
increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops to 5-6 w (which I 
would expect from from the mobile being out of band) but the PA 
output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 

My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure it was working 
in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new label on it and 
send it back.

Will compressing the choke coils closer together make any difference 
in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed components need 
replacing.  I know the choke compression worked in retuning a ARR 450-
470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions).  If so, how close 
should the coils be spaced ?? 

TIA for any help
Doug  N3DAB 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Henry UHF PA tuning

2006-04-05 Thread n3dab
As stated in the original message this was into a dummy load.  
Reflected pwr. was minimal across all the freq's. 440 to 470. If this 
isnt field correctable it will go back to Henry along with all the 
bench notes.

Doug
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mathew Quaife [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 First thing you need to mention, is did you do this test into an 
antenna or into a dummy load?  If in to an antenna, as the SWR goes 
up, so will the power.  If into a dummy load, then it shows it is 
narrowed for the 450-470 Mhz band, and it would be best to consult 
them about it.  But from what others have said, there amps are very 
broad banded, at least all that I have read.

   Mathew
   
 
 n3dab [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Greetings to the group,
 
 Does any one have any specific info on retuning a Henry C200D10R 
UHF 
 450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ? The PA requires 5-10w to 
 produce 100-200w out. I can see nothing inside that is adjustable, 
 all the components are fixed value and securely soldered in place. 
 The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing of the coils 
on 
 4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input and 2 near the output. 
 
 The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from a 3rd party, 
had 
 it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return for use. A simple 
 bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that (using a IC2400 
mobile 
 on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w out but as I 
 increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops to 5-6 w (which 
I 
 would expect from from the mobile being out of band) but the PA 
 output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 
 
 My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure it was working 
 in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new label on it and 
 send it back.
 
 Will compressing the choke coils closer together make any 
difference 
 in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed components need 
 replacing. I know the choke compression worked in retuning a ARR 
450-
 470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions). If so, how close 
 should the coils be spaced ?? 
 
 TIA for any help
 Doug N3DAB 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Henry UHF PA tuning

2006-04-05 Thread n3dab
Thanks for the input.

Doug

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Henry uses all fixed capacitors in their amps. Whether
 they change values for specific band portions, or
 adjust the coils, is unknown.
 
 I bought a C100D10R amp from them and asked that it be
 tuned to 444.450 MHz and also wanted female N
 connectors on it. They gave me exactly what I asked
 for and it gives me 80 watts out with 7 watts in, and
 that's going into a duplexer then into an antenna.
 
 I also had a C80D3 amp on 460-something that I sent to
 them. They removed the pre-driver (turning it into a
 C80D10), tuned it to 444.450, Installed female N
 connectors, and sent it back with a manual and a new
 power cord, all for about $85.
 
 They seem to be very good answering e-mails, so I'd
 write to them and inquire, but only after verifying
 that the amp is not performing to specs on the bench
 with a good dummy load and adequate drive and power.
 
 Bob M.
 ==
 --- n3dab [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Greetings to the group,
  
  Does any one have any specific info on retuning a
  Henry C200D10R UHF 
  450-470 rack mount PA into the 440 band ?   The PA
  requires 5-10w to 
  produce 100-200w out.  I can see nothing inside that
  is adjustable, 
  all the components are fixed value and securely
  soldered in place.  
  The only thing that might be adjusted is the spacing
  of the coils on 
  4 wire wound chokes, 2 near the input  and 2 near
  the output.  
  
  The PA belong to a friend who purchased it used from
  a 3rd party, had 
  it shipped to Henry to put on 443.750, and return
  for use.  A simple 
  bench test into a 50 ohm dummy load shows that
  (using a IC2400 mobile 
  on low power) 8-9w in at 443.750 yields about 45w
  out but as I 
  increase the freq. to 462.750 the IC2400 pwr drops
  to 5-6 w (which I 
  would expect from from the mobile being out of band)
  but the PA 
  output pwr. jumps to over 100w. 
  
  My suspicion is that Henry did nothing but make sure
  it was working 
  in the deigned band range(450-470) and slap a new
  label on it and 
  send it back.
  
  Will compressing the choke coils closer together
  make any difference 
  in the freq. range, or do some of the fixed
  components need 
  replacing.  I know the choke compression worked in
  retuning a ARR 450-
  470 preamp to move it to 440 (per ARR directions). 
  If so, how close 
  should the coils be spaced ?? 
  
  TIA for any help
  Doug  N3DAB
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Info wanted on Mitrek VHF rptr.

2006-03-25 Thread n3dab
73's  to the Group

The following info appears on a MITREK VHF Mobile repeater.  This is 
a factory (Motorola) built product, NOT an after market modified 
mobile radio.   Can anyone provide any information or documentation 
on this repeater ?  Local searches thru Motorola shops have produced 
nothing.

On the ID plate:   Prim. Pwr. 12v   Motorola Canada Ltd.
Doc. No.   109191038X
 MITREK Type JJA   Watt 2-10
Mod. No.   MX23JJA1106BAZ 
Ser. No.   533PKN1018
Motorola Inc. Made in USA

On chasis behind handle:HUD1052CPR
On the PC bd. near Rcvr.elements:   HLD4082BPR
On frame near Tx elements:  HLD1002BPR
On Controller/PL bd.:   TKN9539BAZ
On PA bd.:  HLD4124APR   and   TLD5591BAZ

Label on top cover reads:  Mobile Communications and has a AGT 
logo.  Probably installed by the service shop.

The Rcvr is fed thru the SO239 on the front of the Chasis, the Xmtr 
is fed out a SO239 on the left rear of the heat sink casting and the 
recess for it was part of the casting process.

This repeater appears to function with the standard control head and 
cable, though I don't have the original but have had it bench tested 
for operation.

TIA for any and all help

Doug   N3DAB 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Can anyone identify this?

2006-03-20 Thread n3dab

rick,

You might try locate a VHF Micor mobile on Ebay, etc.out of Canada, 
They operate alot of VHF equip in the 136-150 band. Most of the 
boardis are intercangeable with the ones in the Micor Base 
Station/Repeater chasis.  I swapped the 150 band Rcvr in my non-
unified  VHF rptr with one from a 136 band mobile. Just plug and 
play.  With a little effort I think you can do the same with the Xmtr 
bds. as well.  My rptr came with a 136 band Xmtr set up. The PA is a 
different story.  Just a thought.

73
Doug   N3DAB



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Rick,
 
 The front view shows the PA board, which confirms that your Micor 
is a 60
 watt, intermittent duty base station, with a non-unified chassis.  
The
 repeater version has additional shielding and filtering to permit 
duplex
 operation, but many units are able to operate full duplex without 
them.
 However, the cover for the PA is missing and should be replaced.
 
 The Micor VHF stations were made in four basic splits: 132-142, 142-
150.8,
 150.8-162, and 162-174 MHz.  Obviously, the 142-150.8 MHz, AKA 
the M
 split, is the most desired for 2m application, but the most common 
split
 found on the surplus market is the 150.8-162 MHz split, AKA the H 
split.
 There are bandpass filters in the exciter and the PA that are 
different
 between the M and H splits, and may need to be replaced or re-tuned 
to
 perform optimally on 2m.  The RBTIP on this site is a goldmine of
 information for converting a Micor station to 2m.
 
 Although you did state that the station was already set up for 2m, 
it does
 happen that a group will simply re-crystal the station and find 
that it
 seems to work okay after tuning- but it never performs as well as 
it could
 because of these filters.  It may be that all of those mods have 
already
 been performed, but it never hurts to check!
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Stirling
 Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 12:18 PM
 To: Rick Stirling; repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Can anyone identify this?
 
 Resending this ... original email to list apparently didn't make it
 
 Rick Stirling wrote:
 
  Eric,
 
  Looks like TLX1666A stamped in the lower left corner of the 
backplane.
 
  Also found TRD1803BB and TLN8747A? stamped on receiver frame on 
back 
  right side.
 
  Power Suppy has TPN1110B on it.
 
  Here are two overall images of front and back ...
 
  http://www.rickster.org/pics/front.jpg
 
  http://www.rickster.org/pic/back.jpg
 
  The flying leads in the back are connected to a phone patch unit 
that 
  will be removed. The system is currently working as a 'plain-
jane' 
  repeater on 147.300 - 147.900 with a Wacom WP-641 duplexer
 
  Things are a wee bit slow around here this AM ... my T1 wireless 
went 
  down overnight and the backup dial-up connection sucks dead 
gerbils!
 
  Thanks for the help guys!
 
  73,
  Rick AE7RS
 
  On 3/17/2006 8:33:06 PM, Eric Lemmon ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
   Rick,
  
   Offhand, it looks like a 60 watt, intermittent duty base 
station. If it
   were a repeater station, there should be shield plates covering 
the
   receiver. It might also be a paging station.
  
   Look for any numbers stamped in black ink along the edges of the
   backplane
   and on the power supply or on any sheet metal parts. Any string 
of 
  three
   letters and four digits, usually starting with T, are 
important. Also
   look for any tag or label with a number of the form C53RTB3106A 
(the
   letters
   and numbers may be different) which is the model number. Some 
overall
   photos of the front and back will help a lot.
  
   73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
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[Repeater-Builder] Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly OTT

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
Greetings to the group,

I was trying to tune some Mitrek rcvr's. using the service manual 
procedure and a TEK-5E test set ( big box with 8 meters on it).  The 
Mitrek manual says to set meters 1 and 2 to reverse for some of the 
tuning steps.  Now my problem, there is NO reverse switch on this 
test set, even though the manual says it is one that can be used for 
Mitreks.  I was used the C setting an the selector switch, should I 
have used the A setting instead ?  The manual implies that you flip 
a forward /reverse switch on the test set.

My question is simple.  What is the simplest to provide the reverse 
meter readings for meters 1  2 in this peice of gear. drill the box 
and install a series of DpDT swicths for each of the required meters or 
are there any other solutions out there.

TIA for any helpful info.

Doug N3DAB   








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly OTT

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
Neil,

Thanks for the reply.  The 5 position rotary switch is in the lower 
left corner and the positions are marked A' thru E but no 
reference to reverse readings.  If and when you have the oportunity 
to pull your TEK manuals out and review them I would really 
appreciate knowing what you find out, and possibly getting a copy of 
the manual from you for my files and reference (hard copy thru snail 
mail, email, fax, whatever is convenient for you). 

73 Doug  N3DAB
PS: you can contact me off list at n3dab @ arrl . net   




--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
   I have a couple of the earlier TEK-5 metering panels ... when 
  the Micor test modification is installed, there is, I believe, a 
  five position rotary switch in place of the 0-10 / 0-20 VDC meter
  on the lower left hand corner of the earlier panel. 
   
   You might try different positions of this switch to obtain the 
  meter polarity reversal you need. 
 
   BTW, I haven't studied either of my TEK-5 metering panels or the
  associated manuals to determine a correct answer for your 
question. 
 
   Batteries not included / your mileage may vary / smoke test to be 
  performed after the 11 o'clock news. 
 
   Hope this helps, 
 
   Neil - WA6KLA 
 
 
  Original Message 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola TEK-5E test set, slightly 
OTT
 Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 22:33:32 -
 
 Greetings to the group,
 
 I was trying to tune some Mitrek rcvr's. using the service manual 
 procedure and a TEK-5E test set ( big box with 8 meters on it).  
The 
 Mitrek manual says to set meters 1 and 2 to reverse for some of 
the
 tuning steps.  Now my problem, there is NO reverse switch on 
this 
 test set, even though the manual says it is one that can be used 
for 
 Mitreks.  I was used the C setting an the selector switch, 
should I
 have used the A setting instead ?  The manual implies that you 
flip
 a forward /reverse switch on the test set.
 
 My question is simple.  What is the simplest to provide the 
reverse 
 meter readings for meters 1  2 in this peice of gear. drill the 
box 
 and install a series of DpDT swicths for each of the required 
meters
 or are there any other solutions out there.
 
 TIA for any helpful info.
 
 Doug N3DAB   
 










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Can anyone identify this?

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
More pictures, front and back, and part nos. from diferent components  
would help with the ID, but it looks to me like an old version (non-
unified chasis) Micor to me.

Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Rick Stirling [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 We have a repeater given to our club. It is more or less in working 
 condition on the 2 meter band. Trouble is there is no controller or 
 id-er, etc.
 
 http://www.rickster.org/pics/unknown.jpg
 
 I've been told it is a Compa-Station but I haven't been able to 
 correlate this backplane any of the pictures on repeater-builder.
 
 Any clues would be appreciated. I'm planing on installing a CommSpec 
 CTCSS TS64DS decoder and the NHRC-4 controller.
 
 73,
 Rick AE7RS









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola TEK-5 Test Set Manuals

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
Do you happen to know the difference between the E and F models ?

Doug N3DAB
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 For those of you looking for a manual for one of the TEK-5 series 
of test
 sets, I have good news and bad news.  The good news is that I can 
identify
 what manuals are needed:
 
 TEK-5B6881101A77
 TEK-5C6881116A36
 TEK-5E6881121A62
 TEK-5F6881122E56
 
 The bad news is that the first three (B, C, and E) are no longer 
available
 from Motorola Parts.
 
 More good news:  The TEK-5F manual IS available, priced at just $ 
1.57!
 Hard to believe...
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6mtr duplexer

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
Forgot to mention: check with any large plumbing contracors  or at 
large building construction sites where they might be using large 
dia. copper pipe for supply or waste piping. If you find any sites 
where they are using what your looking for they may let you have some 
scrap pieces just for hauling it off. 

Doug  N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For all the looking I've done, I've only ever found one place on 
the web 
 that had 4 or larger copper pipe available.  And it was something 
like 
 30.00/foot.  Has anyone found better sources for this type of pipe 
for 
 building cavities?
 
 73  Paul
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 
  If you look around the ham radio web sites, there are many 
articles on
  making
  6 m duplexersw out of copper or aluminum pipe.  Less expensive 
than having
  to biuy a factory-made one.
 
  73,
 
  Dick
 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6mtr duplexer

2006-03-17 Thread n3dab
Final post:  Depending on size (dia.) and length you might consider 
getting sheet copper of the appropriate thickness and having a 
sheetmetal fabrication shop cut it and roll it to your dimensions.  
They could also form a lap seam or lock seam where the 2 edges meet  
and cut your end plates too.  You might also want to consider 
aluminum, problably cheaper, if you have access to a TIG or heliarc 
welder.  Try a local or area trade school and talk to the welding 
instructor.  They might build what you want just for the student 
practice.

Buenos Noches Doug N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For all the looking I've done, I've only ever found one place on 
the web 
 that had 4 or larger copper pipe available.  And it was something 
like 
 30.00/foot.  Has anyone found better sources for this type of pipe 
for 
 building cavities?
 
 73  Paul
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 
  If you look around the ham radio web sites, there are many 
articles on
  making
  6 m duplexersw out of copper or aluminum pipe.  Less expensive 
than having
  to biuy a factory-made one.
 
  73,
 
  Dick
 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Z matcher info.pdf

2006-01-24 Thread n3dab
Can you recall where you saw the article and/or did you keep notes of 
the component values for the VHF and UHF caps, coils, etc.  Would 
like to duplicate you efforts if possible.  Thanks

Doug N3DAB at arrl dot net for direct contact


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Cicirello 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A while back there was an excellent article on making these Z 
Matchers. I
 made two, one VHF, One UHF, they worked well. The only parts were 
two Piston
 Caps, One turn coil between the caps and it was put in an RF tight 
box with
 two RF connectors of your choice. On the home made ones there was 
no circuit
 for the voltmeter. Does anyone know how this voltage is obtained 
from the Z
 Matcher? I would like to incorporate this design so I can remove 
the Power
 Meter and make a final tune.
 
  
 
 73 JIM  KA2AJH
 
  
 
   _  
 
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John J. 
Riddell
 Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:48 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Z matcher info.pdf
 
  
 
 Here is the How to sheet on the Z matcher.
 
  
 
 John VE3AMZ
 
 
  Z matcher info.pdf 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?

2005-12-12 Thread n3dab
Bruce,

I never recieved anything from Doug Zastrow by email or snailmail.  
I sent a 2nd request with no response.  Maybe you will have better 
luck.  If you do please forward a copy to me.  

73
Doug   N3DAB



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, bforestal 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Doug,
 
 Please send me the dimensions, I particularly need the harness 
data,
 
 Thanks,
 Bruce WB6ARE
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Zastrow 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Will do...
  
  Doug
- Original Message - 
From: n3dab 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 12:16 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?
  
  
Yes please, particularly the the complete descriptive 
dimmensions of 
the harness.  Reply on or of the site  Thanks 
  
Doug  N3DAB  n3dab at arrl dot net (direct)
  
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Zastrow 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 I have a brand-new DB224-E (138-150 MHz cut, Omni Pattern) 
in my 
garage.  Is there anyone who would care for EXACT element 
spacing, 
element length or phasing harness dimensions on this  August, 
2005 
vintage antenna before it goes up on our tower?
 
 FYI...  We got the best product and freight pricing from 
Tally 
communications.  We did get a quote from another frequently-
mentioned 
vendor but they were considerably higher and were not able to 
quote 
firm freight to Nebraska.  Obviously, your ship-to location 
and vendor 
relationship may make the opposite true for you.  As always, 
YMMV!
 
 Doug
 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?

2005-12-12 Thread n3dab
Tom,

I'll save your message and if I ever get anything I'll let you know.

73
Doug N3DAB


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tom Manning [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Doug
 I also would be appreciative of all measurements looking 
toward 
 modifying a commercial range DB224 to a two meter ham range.  
Thanks.  Tom 
 Manning, AF4UG
 - Original Message - 
 From: bforestal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:18 AM
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?
 
 
  Doug,
 
  Please send me the dimensions, I particularly need the harness 
data,
 
  Thanks,
  Bruce WB6ARE
 
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Zastrow 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  wrote:
 
  Will do...
 
  Doug
- Original Message - 
From: n3dab
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 12:16 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone Need DB224-E Data?
 
 
Yes please, particularly the the complete descriptive 
dimmensions of
the harness.  Reply on or of the site  Thanks
 
Doug  N3DAB  n3dab at arrl dot net (direct)
 
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Zastrow 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
 I have a brand-new DB224-E (138-150 MHz cut, Omni Pattern) 
in my
garage.  Is there anyone who would care for EXACT element 
spacing,
element length or phasing harness dimensions on this  August, 
2005
vintage antenna before it goes up on our tower?

 FYI...  We got the best product and freight pricing from 
Tally
communications.  We did get a quote from another frequently-
mentioned
vendor but they were considerably higher and were not able to 
quote
firm freight to Nebraska.  Obviously, your ship-to location 
and vendor
relationship may make the opposite true for you.  As always, 
YMMV!

 Doug
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Micor VHF PA

2005-08-12 Thread n3dab
Looking for 90/100 watt continuous duty Micor VHF PA for my 
147.70 machine.  

Mod. # TLD5942A, TLD 1692D, or TLD1692C (all 130 to 150 range)  
Will consider the TLD5943A, TLD1693E, or TLD1693D.  Must be
in good working condition and very reasonable price.  Needed 
to replace existing PA that has gone south and don't have time 
to repair.  

If you can help contact me thru the group or off ine at  
de_n3dab AT tds dot net.

Thanks for any assistance in advance.

Doug









 
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[Repeater-Builder] micor desense problem

2005-08-12 Thread n3dab
Would appreciate any feed back concerning a VHF non-unified chasis 
Micor repeater.  The rcvr. is apparently being desensed by the an 
unstable PA.  Bypassing the PA eliminates the desense.  

One suggestion recieved was to check /replace the Tantalum bypass caps 
in the PA   The PA is a TLD8453A.  A review of the manual and visual 
loook at the PA bd. does not indicate any Tantalum bypass caps being 
installed.  Should the bypass caps in the power supply be suspect as 
well?? I can't ID any Tantalums there either. 

Can anyone give me the Cap nos. that I should suspect of being 
defective so I can cross reference them to the manual, or any other 
suggestions re: correcting the problem short of getting a new repeater. 
Any/all help will be appreciated.

73's  Doug






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: micor desense problem

2005-08-12 Thread n3dab
Thanks Andy,

Everything that you mentioned has been checked out, swapped, changed 
etc. at the site and on the bench and the problem has been isolated to 
the PA itself. I don't have a second PA to substitute right now so I 
need to fix what I have.  If  it is not the bypass caps then it might 
be a hair line crack or cold solder joint in the PA  or PS.  

Doug

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Andrew G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 The first thing I would do is change the PA out with another to make 
sure that it is not a duplexer/filtering problem. Also, I presume you 
have decent cabling between the TX and duplexer/ RX and duplexer?
  
 Andy KC2GOW
  
 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: micor desense problem

2005-08-12 Thread n3dab
Thanks Andy,

Everything that you mentioned has been checked out, swapped, changed 
etc. at the site and on the bench and the problem has been isolated to 
the PA itself. I don't have a second PA to substitute right now so I 
need to fix what I have.  If  it is not the bypass caps then it might 
be a hair line crack or cold solder joint in the PA  or PS.  

Doug

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Andrew G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 The first thing I would do is change the PA out with another to make 
sure that it is not a duplexer/filtering problem. Also, I presume you 
have decent cabling between the TX and duplexer/ RX and duplexer?
  
 Andy KC2GOW
  
 
 __
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 Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
 http://mail.yahoo.com






 
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