SDunder hood pad?
does anyone know where I can get that synthetic felt-like pad that attaches under your hood above your engine? I don't want a fancy or tuner type pad with shiny foil, etc. just want the stock look. thanks in advance rob marquardt ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD 1987 Dodge Shelby Charger GLH-S Electrical Trouble
charge temp sensor is the most likely culprit. could easily be the wiring to it, as it pulls out a bit from the plug. try replacing the sensor and the plug. -- Original message -- Hello everyone I have a question for anyone that can help. I have been having on going problems with my GHL-S Charger. I will be driving the car down the road and all of a sudden the Power Loss light will come on and I have all power. Why is that happening? Can some one help me here? Thanks; Brian Downard Sr. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDpoly mounts
after reviewing a lot of responses to my car vibrates like holy hell complaint they fall into 2 categories. 1. Yup. thats the way it is 2. You have a problem These are completely opposing categories! I'm still hoping that I continue to get technical suggestions to work through this. thanks again Rob Marquardt GLHS #0087 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDpoly mounts problem solved!
-- Original message -- Glad to hear it! John's a great guy and always willing to help. So what was the ultimate solution? The dog bone or? Stefan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 6:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SDpoly mounts problem solved! I spent this weekend making subtle adjustments and following the advice of John Spiva concerning the solid poly mounts I recently installed. By taking his advice, I solved 90% of my vibration problems. I can now actually see things in my rear view mirror (hehe) Would like to take a moment to mention John Spiva's willingness to help and solve my problem. I've also had great service in terms of buying his product. I highly recommend him. I know others have quietly mailed me off the list to express concern they were having with their installations also. I was certainly not alone. I suggest you call him or email me and get some more info on how to fix/adjust your mounts. rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDpoly mounts problem solved!
It was 90% the front radiator mount The ultimate solution was understanding how to use the application. Your poly mount kit will come with some extra spacers that look like big round washers. In the installation instructions it appears that these must go inside the front cup mount. Due to manufacturing tolerances, YOUR front mount may be a slightly different size. You may or may not need the spacers. In my case, I incorrectly stuffed both spacers and the mount into the front cup by the radiator core support and then tightened everything down. This essentially created a big area of contact with all parts of the mount connecting through to the frame. I made suer the bolt went through the poly mount correctly and tightened that up, then tightened the cup to the frame Ideally, only the inner sleeve, with the bolt, makes metal to metal contact with the cup mount and the polyurethane then takes up the space and transmits a lot less vibration. additionally, I loosened the dogbone up, let the weight of the motor drop it a quarter inch to bottom, dropping some of that load. If you have dogbone vibration, you can disconnect the dogbone and if it goes away, then that is your culprit, and you can get a shorter one from Johnny and see if that fixes it. I am much, much happier now rob marquardt -- Original message -- Glad to hear it! John's a great guy and always willing to help. So what was the ultimate solution? The dog bone or? Stefan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 6:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SDpoly mounts problem solved! I spent this weekend making subtle adjustments and following the advice of John Spiva concerning the solid poly mounts I recently installed. By taking his advice, I solved 90% of my vibration problems. I can now actually see things in my rear view mirror (hehe) Would like to take a moment to mention John Spiva's willingness to help and solve my problem. I've also had great service in terms of buying his product. I highly recommend him. I know others have quietly mailed me off the list to express concern they were having with their installations also. I was certainly not alone. I suggest you call him or email me and get some more info on how to fix/adjust your mounts. rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDhead porting person?
a few weeks back we had a thread arguing about who ported heads better, etc., etc. I'm looking for someone to do a porting/matching job on my spare GLHS head and intake. I've searched the archives and found A man by the Name of Rob Walsh mentioned but I can't find an email any suggestions on who you can send a head off to to get a nice professional mild port/match would be of great help. Thanks in advance Rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD '87 GLHS ticking noise
what is the right year, parts for conversion? 1989? what make modle do you look for and what valve train gear do you order? -- Original message -- lifters or the slider cam is making noise, go to a roller cam and it will sound better. Rob In a message dated 3/1/2005 10:49:34 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'm thinking seriously of buying an '87 GLHS (after years of driving a 302 V8 Mustang) and the car reportedly has a ticking sound coming from under the valve cover..is this typical of a turbo II engine? The car has a stage II computer and makes about 12psi boost. Gets about 27 mpg highway and compression is 120 on all cylinders. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Worst case a lifter or the fact that the injectors are pretty loud on em.. :) Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA. - 1984 T2 Rampage Ramlet _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) - _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDvacuum tubing
Does anyone know conclusively what type of plastic was used on the Vacuum harnesses of L-body cars? was it ABS? I'm also looking for any vacuum lines so if anyone has original lines I would be interested. Thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDoverboost questions
I have an 87GLHS that continues to overboost. It was recently re-assembled after getting a new stainless steel exhaust system. The turbo and everything else is stock. The elbow off the turbo was changed to move to a 2.5 inch pipe. I have verified that all vacuum lines are correct by comparing with a buddy's GLHS. I have a boost guage plumbed in also. I re-routed the can back into the vacuum harness directly, skipping the solenoids and still overboost. I can manually move the rod off the can. I'm worried about the can and rod length and how this might be wrong when I moved to the 2.5inch flange. any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks Rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD2.5 inch flange and acuator q's
A long time back, I had purchased as part of a project, a new 2.5inch turbo flange for the upgraded exhaust system on a GLHS. Does anyone know if you need to maodify/change the actuator arm if you do such a conversion? The arm seemingly went on fine, but I am having boost problems. thanks in advance for any help one can give me. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD shelby wheels on volvo hot rod on Ebay
I'm posting this for curiosity more than anything, but take a moment to look at the auction on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-122s-Amazon_W0QQitemZ270098078034QQcategoryZ6458QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I just found the highlighting of the shelby wheels interesting. anyone have any comments on this? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDalways overboosting
I have a relatively stock GLHS. It has recently had an exhaust upgrade which includes the elbow off the turbo. The elbow is an upgrade part to 2.5inch. I think I got it from RelentlessRacing. after the car has been put back together I get boost, and boost quickly, but it will not stop and I hit overboost cutout any time I try to let the car make power. It has a stock computer in it. I verified the routing and connections of vacuum lines by matching them to a friends stock GLHS, so I know the routing is correct. is this a solenoid problem? I'm stumped. any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SDAdjustable wastgate arm
I upgraded my exhaust to 2.5 inch and put a new elbow off the turbo on. I've since had boost control problems. Checking and rechecking vacuum lines leads me to believe that the different geometry of the elbow/swingvalve is part of the problem with using the stock wastegate can and actuator arm. I've now ordered an adjustable wastegate from FWD and it should be here any day now. Is there any strategy to installing and adjusting? any other advice, or anyone who has upgraded to 2.5 inch exhaust on a GLHS? Thanks in advance Rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
