Re: [Apple-Crop] spray damage?

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Have you looked at the spray program to see if there was an overdose of a 
chemical..  It looks like lenticels burn..  Possibly an overdose of calcium 
chloride or another element..  Mosbah Kushad, U of Illinois

From: apple-crop  On Behalf Of Brian 
Alan Caldwell
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 9:19 AM
To: Apple-Crop discussion list 
Subject: [Apple-Crop] spray damage?

I’m sending this with an attached photo of damage we saw on the calyx end of 
many apples last season.  Could it be spray damage?
Thanks,

Brian Caldwell
West Danby, NY
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Re: [Apple-Crop] Problem with pear trees

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Hi Mohamed:

I only saw one dark brown leaf in one of the two photos, which could be 
affected by the honeydew, since I don’t see any sign of fireblight on the 
twigs..   The cupping and drying of the other leaves is likely due to high wind 
or drought since most of the damage is on the margins of the leaves …. What 
part of Morocco are you at?I am assuming that you are close to Midlet, the 
apple growing region in Morocco. . I have been in that area twice in the last 
two years…. Please send me your direct e.mail…   Mosbah Kushad, University of 
Illinois kus...@illinois.edu

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Mohamed Merigh
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 7:36 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.com
Subject: Re: [Apple-Crop] Problem with pear trees

Hi Mosbah,

Thank you for your reply and for the link.

Just got some pictures of the foliar damage: on most (but not all) trees 
affected, the honeydew causes the leaves to become very dark brown before they 
dry off and fall.  Some trees have been completely "defoliated".

However, unless we need to use a magnifying glass, we do not see psylle in any 
form (egg, nymph, or adult).  The honeydew "seems" to come out of the buds but 
we could be wrong.



Regards,
Mo

On Sep 18, 2017 10:48 PM, "Kushad, Mosbah M" 
<kus...@illinois.edu<mailto:kus...@illinois.edu>> wrote:
Do you see a lot of russeted fruits with dark spots? PP nymphs produce the 
honeydew that drips on the fruit surface causing the russet..  Washington State 
University has a very nice factsheet.. Here is the link..  
http://jenny.tfrec.wsu.edu/opm/displaySpecies.php?pn=120..
Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois …

From: apple-crop 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com<mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com>]
 On Behalf Of Mohamed Merigh
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 3:36 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.com<mailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.com>
Subject: [Apple-Crop] Problem with pear trees

Hello from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco,

I hope somebody on the list can help me find the reason our two-year pear trees 
produce a honey-like sticky substance.

I was told it is pear psyllia, but I do not see any insects on the trees.

Somebody else suspected gummosis.  I am familiar with gummosis on cherry trees, 
but the sap we see on the pear trees is less viscous, and forms only a thin 
layer that drips on leaves.

Thanks for your help,
Mo

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Re: [Apple-Crop] Problem with pear trees

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Do you see a lot of russeted fruits with dark spots? PP nymphs produce the 
honeydew that drips on the fruit surface causing the russet..  Washington State 
University has a very nice factsheet.. Here is the link..  
http://jenny.tfrec.wsu.edu/opm/displaySpecies.php?pn=120..
Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois …

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Mohamed Merigh
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 3:36 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.com
Subject: [Apple-Crop] Problem with pear trees

Hello from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco,

I hope somebody on the list can help me find the reason our two-year pear trees 
produce a honey-like sticky substance.

I was told it is pear psyllia, but I do not see any insects on the trees.

Somebody else suspected gummosis.  I am familiar with gummosis on cherry trees, 
but the sap we see on the pear trees is less viscous, and forms only a thin 
layer that drips on leaves.

Thanks for your help,
Mo
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Re: [Apple-Crop] Shopping list: Looking for insight on flyspeck, fire blight, pheromone trap thresholds

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Hi Vince:
Regulaid and LI700 have different formulations that can each have different 
effects on different chemicals.. For example, Kasumin is more soluble in water 
than strep. and strep is insoluble in organic solvents like ether, ethanol, 
etc. (LI700 has PE-ether see blow), not sure about Kasumin.

Regulaid..  2-butoxyethanol (surfactant used in paint), poloxalene ( used as a 
stool softener and non ionic surfactant), monopropylene glycol (used as 
moisturizer in cosmetics)

LI700 … Methylacetic Acid (used as a solvent in paint, nail polish, and glue), 
Phosphatidycholine (soybased product), Alkyl Polyoxyethylene Ether (a non ionic 
surfactant that enhances penetration of certain chemicals through membranes).

Mosbah Kushad University of Illinois

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Vincent Philion
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2017 4:15 PM
To: Apple-Crop discussion list 
Subject: Re: [Apple-Crop] Shopping list: Looking for insight on flyspeck, fire 
blight, pheromone trap thresholds

Hi!

Won’t answer about SBFS, but hopefully someone will. ;-)

My 2 cents for other disease stuff:

2) Fire blight
 Why is Regulaid specified as a penetrant adjuvant for use with 
streptomycin applications during bloom?  Does it have unique characteristics 
that make it better for this purpose than other penetrants such as LI700?

We don’t have Regulaid, but I can tell you substituting for LI700 doesn’t work 
for Kasumin. Never tried with Strep.

We had reduced efficacy when LI700 was mixed with Kasumin.


 If grower is applying captan at same time, has much strep efficacy is lost 
by not adding the penetrant to the mix to avoid captan phytotoxicity?

It’s interesting you mix strep with fungicides considering this should reduce 
strep efficacy:

Goodman, Robert N., 1964: Compatibility of streptomycin with some fungicides 
and insecticides. Plant Dis Reporter: 180-181


 If there is none or even minimal active fire blight in the orchard, is 
there reason to spray strep after hail damage?

I see none whatsoever.

 My take on it has been to not bother as long as you are just cutting fire 
blight out, and that it is more important to remove fire blight as soon as 
possible.

I didn’t change my opinion since we wrote that about 10 years ago. But this 
question keeps coming back.

Toussaint, V., et V. Philion. 2007. Natural Epidemic of Fire Blight in a Newly 
Planted Orchard and Effect of Pruning on Disease Development. In XI 
International Workshop on Fire Blight 793, 313‑320. ISHS.

Do we all agree that strep provides protection for a flower for about 2-3 
days?

Yes. But since the flower has a finite life and gets more difficult to colonize 
as it ages, there is no point in respraying the same flower.

  Though I can imagine scenario with temps around 90F where a single cohort of 
flowers could be vulnerable to a second fire blight infection period after 
receiving a strep application.

I can’t. Show me how this is possible!

Bye for now,

Vincent Philion, agr.






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Re: [Apple-Crop] Thining D'Anjou pears

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Art:  Be careful when thinning d’anjou. They tend to set less fruits compared 
to Bartlett and so it is better to make sure they have high set before applying 
any thinners.  I suggest using mild thinners.  Amid Thin, Abscisic acid, 
Retain, and Pro-Tone have been used to thin pears.  The problem is some of the 
thinners are not effective when applied after petal fall and some will strip 
nearly everthing.  Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
kellyorchards
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2017 4:35 PM
To: Apple-Crop 
Subject: [Apple-Crop] Thining D'Anjou pears

Can/should D'Anjou pears be chemically thinned?




Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
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Re: [Apple-Crop] Newbie Orchardist questions Herbicide on First Year Plantings

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Doug: Here is a good list of herbicides and when to apply them. 
(http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/I/IPM-0011/IPM-0011.pdf).
there are a few that you may be able to use.. (for example Gromaxone, Rely, 
Fusilade, Post) read the label, but a hooded sprayer and protection of the tree 
trunk are highly encouraged.

Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Doug Nelson
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 8:56 AM
To: Apple-Crop discussion list 
Subject: [Apple-Crop] Newbie Orchardist questions Herbicide on First Year 
Plantings

I have a new tall spindle orchard planted in an alfalfa field this spring.  I 
did not realize how much work it would be to mechanically weed the orchard. All 
the orchards I have visited have told me not to use herbicides for the first 
year on newly planted trees. There is a conventional nursery across the street 
that uses barrier on new trees.

Does anyone have a herbicide they are using on new trees or stick to mechanical?

--
Doug Nelson
President
Nelson Multimedia Inc.
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Re: [Apple-Crop] When to Head or Tie Down Tall Tall Spindle to promote lateral growth?

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

My suggestion is not to head the leader unless it has reached its maximum 
height, then head it back to a weak lateral in winter.   As you mentioned, 
tie-down the leader in early spring, but don’t forget to bring it back up after 
bud break and before it stiffens in mid-summer (early July in Illinois). You 
can also make a notch above dormant buds on the leader to break the apical 
dominance effect.  Or you can brush/spray the blind-wood areas of the leader 
with Promalin.  Promalin is a growth regulator, so its effect is subject to 
many factors including temperature, rootstock, tree vigor, spur/non spur, etc.
Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Doug Nelson
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2017 9:01 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.com
Subject: [Apple-Crop] When to Head or Tie Down Tall Tall Spindle to promote 
lateral growth?

I have second year old tall spindles. Some of them are near the maximum height. 
Most of them do not have enough lateral growth. When should I head the tree or 
Shepard hook the top of the tree down with twine?

I am next to a commercial tree nursery. They Shepard hook tie down in Spring to 
promote lateral growth. A few youtube videos about tall spindle indicate to do 
head in mid summer if the trees are tall enough. No one has ever talked about 
shepard hooking tall spindle. The literature I can find online is silent on 
heading or shepard hooks.

--
Doug Nelson
The Bluffs
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[Apple-Crop] looking for Baxter Black Winesap

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Any of you know of a source of trees or budwood for Baxter Black Winesap.   The 
grandfather of one of our Illinois residents had patented this cultivar in the 
late 1940's.  Happy holiday and new year to all  Mosbah, University of 
Illinois
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Re: [Apple-Crop] Jonagold

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

I agree that a fruit needs adequate number of leaves to produce sugars that it 
uses to produce the coloring substance (anthyocyanin), among other things... 
However, fruit color will not be any better in an off year when the tree may 
have only a handful of fruits and a large number of leaves.  Mosbah

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
Hugh Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 2:32 PM
To: kellyorchards; Apple-Crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [Apple-Crop] Jonagold

A heavy crop will do it.  Find a tree with good color and then make an estimate 
of the leaves / fruit ratio. I'm betting the non-coloring trees have 10-40 
leaves or per fruit, whereas the good color trees will have 50-100+ leaves per 
fruit. My take on it..

On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 12:19 PM, kellyorchards 
> wrote:
Why are my Jonagolds not coloring?  Can this be an issue if they have a heavy 
crop?



Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine

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Re: [Apple-Crop] Jonagold

[Kushad, Mosbah M]

Art:  Many factors contribute to poor color in “Jonagold” and other varieties 
of apples.

1.  “Joangold” is not a high coloring cultivar, except in excellent sites 
where it can get adequate cool nights and warm (but not hot) days at least one 
month before harvest.

2.   “Jonagold” is a vigorous tree. Adequate pruning is a must for good 
color.

3.  Heavily fertilized trees produce poor color fruits.

4.  High temperature and high humidity during coloring will reduce fruit 
color.

5.  I have seen young trees produce good color fruits compare to older 
trees, but I have also seen the opposite, which gets back to tree management..

6.  I am not sure heavy crop load impact fruit color much . I would assume 
the opposite.. A tree that has a heavy crop load is likely to have less shaded 
fruits..

7.  In my opinion the key players are inadequate pruning and hot and humid 
weather before harvest.

8.  I have seen a NW grower mist a “Jonagold” block to increase color 
through evaporative cooling.   Not a good practice if you live in a humid area..
Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois

From: apple-crop [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
kellyorchards
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 1:20 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [Apple-Crop] Jonagold

Why are my Jonagolds not coloring?  Can this be an issue if they have a heavy 
crop?



Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
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