Jeff,
Thanks for the input. If oil based paints are not to be used on
galvanized metal, what would they have used 80 years ago? I believe that
water based paints weren't around that long ago.
Nothing I read so far mentioned this problem with Zinc and oil based
paints. although I just found
Hmm, most interesting indeed.
I purchased an old house (1915 ventage) and it came with a garage which was
made entirely of tin. I do not know when the garage was built but it had
been painted all white. All of the timber in the garage was completely
rotted out. The poor old thing looked as though
It appears from most readings, that tin roofs are just galvanized steel.
The process of dunking steel sheets into molten Zinc was called tinning.
Do I actually need to determine if my roof is really tin, or just Zinc
coated steel? After 80 years, is there any Zinc left or has it all been
And I always thought that you were a nonconformist! I would then use the
rustoleum brand, probably the most popular. When the roofers used that paint
it matched what was up there. Her neighbor purchased the Sherwin Williams
brand for a diy project. That paint is a very bright red and really
Dan,
Tell you what I would do.
I would give the roof a prefunctary scrape/wire brush and then give it a
rinse and allow to dry.
Next I would grab some Rustoleum and go to work and call it good.
Red roof? I had a 12x12 shed constructed in my side yard which was on the
main street of the little
As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I would start with the
top. It should snap free from the front and hinge towards the back. Hopefully
you can rotate the drum by hand untill you can reach the pin. If you are
unable to do this then removing the front and pulling the drum
the galvanization issue if I understand it correctly has to do with the
chemistry used in the plating process more than the zinc. Although the steel is
washed some of the chemistry may and often remains as residue. This was a very
common problem when steel eves troughing was in common use and
Oh Boy,
Sounds like fun in the limited space available to take the Dryer apart. I
switched a while ago and no longer have to put up with that painful under wire.
Oh the Bobby pin is complements from my Mom this is the third time this has
happened. the first time I really lucked out and it
I tried this once and got the bobby pin out and decided to never do it
again. It turned into an all day job and I finally got it all back together
and had help with a lot of luck too. I just quit buying brand new dryers.
When mine quits for what ever reason, we go down to a used washer and
Now just how does the top unsnap in the front.
Thanks Bob
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I
Put a wide heavy duty screwdriver or better yet some sort of flat prybar
between the top and front or side at the front corners . There should be a
little play to allow the insertation of the bar. Then pry it off. There are
spring steel sheet metal fasteners that compress when put in, but
There are a couple ways. Try putting a putty knife between the top and the
front. You'll have to slide from the outside edge toward the center. There
should be a clip on each side. When you run into it, push in on the clip and
lift. Don't tug because it may not be the clip and you don't
Maybe I missed seeing the brand of the machine. Many Maytag models can be
opened by simply removing the two screws located low on the front panel. This
opens the machine adequate for doing most repairs to the drying mechanism.
- Original Message -
From: robert Gilman
To:
I've also seen machines with a piece of trim on the front just below the top
panel which slides sideways and comes off, thus revealing inset screws
And I've seen an old sears where you had to remove screws from
the back, thus allowing the top to slide forward a bit and hinge up.
When you put
A dryer I once owned had two little spring catches one on each side that had
to be pushed back or forward, I forget which way. If you didn't release
them prying would just break something. Also there was a small plate about
5 x 5 inches on the back that was held on by two screws. When it was
To me, the words tin roof conjure up a vission of a roof composed of
flattened tin cans that are
rivetted or soldered together to make a roof.
We: that is: here in New Zealand, always refer to them as * iron, or
corrugated iron roofs.
Corrugated iron, as Dan suggested, is rippled steel that
This is a G E that is about 11 years old. Still looking and sliding my trusty
butter knife around the top with no luck yet.
- Original Message -
From: Rick Hume
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
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