Hi,
The Hexkey I ordered turned up today, and what an impressive gadget
it is. This is my first commercial set of paddles I have owned, all my
previous ones being home brewed, and it is real nice to now own an
accurately made , solid paddle.
I have to say I am impressed with the solid
In a message dated 5/19/05 9:13:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
in their heyday, Heathkit didn't take over
the ham radio market. Certainly they were wildly popular -- but there
were plenty of companies that sold built equipment.
There were also other companies
Gang,
My basic K2 [5 watt version] is my station rig. I have a NC-20 in white
metal for field use. That will be supplemented by a K1 as soon as the budget
will stand it and SHMBO [lets not start that again] approves.
As for general coverage, I have a Hallicrafters S-38 [circa 1946]
Egg on face.
Thanks to Kevin and Ron for the Glowbugs tip, but I never got a round tuit.
To rule out the T/R relay, I put the 'scope on the tank output, and had
volts!
Rechecking the coax, switch and dummy load connections, I found my
intermittent. Securing that and voila! 200 V p-p across 50
For me, it is not question about competition and taking of global market. It
is a question of RIG specs.
K2 (UFB like kit) has some great characteristics but there is plenty room
for improovments, wich are almost impossible to do on -$$$ RIG's.
The only way to have the superb rig nowadays is
I too, have the K2 as my only rig in the home shack and I plan to keep it
that way. Antenna system at home consists of a B W BWD-90 broadband folded
dipole for 80-40-30 and the rest of the WARC bands. 20-15-10 is a Cushcraft
A3S on a 10' tripod mounted on the roof of my garage which puts it
You have one or more bad connections. In the SB and HW series of Heath
transceivers the bandswitches have contacts on both sides of the switch wafers.
The two sides are wedged together and the connection becomes intermittent
with time. This causes the lower level and driver stages to drop
I wrote:
Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B,
the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer
design, caught on.
Bill wrote:
I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It
has dot and dash memories -- the
On Fri, 20 May 2005, Mike Morrow wrote:
I think the bottom line is that you prefer whatever technique
you've trained on.
There's 100 percent agreement here! Learn one mode and the other will seem
impossible.
I haven't any moral objections to mode B, just to the firmware designers who
And Straight Key for those of us who have never been impressed with either!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Mike Morrow
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 12:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or
On Fri, 20 May 2005, Mike Morrow wrote:
I wrote:
Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B,
the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer
design, caught on.
Bill wrote:
I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It
Hisashi Fujinaka wrote:
Not quite an answer but the ARRL article on John Curtis said, (according to
John, Mode B was actually a design error by an unnamed company).
http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2002/02/04/2/?nc=1
--
Thank you Fujinaka-san!
I enjoyed reading the
Dear Ron,
One thing to remember is that the internal voltmeter function of the K2
is specified as +/- 5%.
When I read this spec as I was building my K2 I thought great that seems
to be reasonably accurate.
When I added the KBT2 option I ended up measuring the various voltages
with an
If anyone would like to see the cover for my hex key, take a look.
http://www.cwkeysdustcovers.com/cover%20picture.htm
Phil
Philip LaMarche
Instant Gourmet
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell
NASFT # 30210
W9DVM
Andy,
I want to give you a follow-up. I built the KAT100 in less than three
evenings and it is a wonder to me in both its design and operation.
I built the BL1 in the 4:1 configuration. I get a 1.1:1 or less match on
all bands except 15 Meters which is about 1.5:1. I find that the balun
gets
The subject says' it all ???
Hope, Wish, Blow out the candles...
Dave KK7SS
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Unknown callers = QRM
- Original Message -
From: Jeff Rosenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Lloyd Lachow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: List Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] custom Morse ringtones
Lloyd Lachow wrote:
My phone, a Treo
On Apr 29, 2005, at 7:37 AM, Erik Linder wrote:
Are there many of you which have modified rigs?
Or...
Are the majority using standard K2 exactly built from elecraft's
manual?
I can't speak for the majority, but I've made a number of small
modifications to my K2, including changes for VOX
On May 13, 2005, at 12:40 AM, John, KI6WX wrote:
At high power, an inefficient tuner can generate significant
amounts of heat, which can destroy components. A 1kW transmitter
into a 70% efficient tuner will generate 300 watts of heat in the
tuner.
This is why I tend to disbelieve tuner
On May 13, 2005, at 9:32 AM, Stephen W. Kercel wrote:
Comment on baluns: If you drive a ferrite core to saturation, it
will overheat.
True.
Once the core overheats, the inductance changes and you lose your
match (quite severely, in my experience).
In order to change the inductance
On May 20, 2005, at 7:23 PM, Dave G. wrote:
The subject says' it all ???
Hope, Wish, Blow out the candles...
Yes, inquiring minds want to know!
Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright,
Hi Guys,
Let me re-phrase my original proposal / suggestion about a K3 design with
all the features mentioned in my original post:
Lets assume that Elecraft had the K2 as we know it, and a K3 more
expensive kit with all the useless accessories (IF notch, PBT, general HF
coverage, preselector,
I completed the construction of my K2 and KBS2.
Everything is now working fine!
TNX to those who gave me advices and to Gary Surrency!
Yves Dussault-VE2ATD, ex YB8AEG, ex f0ddr
Laval, Québec.___
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Post to:
It show up at the Elecraft web site??
I just gotta know...
Phil
Santa Fe
K2 1264 plus the heater
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On 5/20/05 10:04 PM, Phil Townsend [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It show up at the Elecraft web site??
I just gotta know...
Phil
Santa Fe
K2 1264 plus the heater
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