Gang,
The stuff you are referring to is used a lot by RVers to keep stuff from
moving about. One caution, if you leave it in contact with painted items
for a long time, it will leave marks that may be difficult to remove. If we
are talking about the same stuff, it is much cheaper at the
I just found my own problem...I'd installed U4 backwards..
Sorry for the bandwidth..
You make a worthwhile point, though. As mind-numbing as it is, it's worth
taking the time to verify the polarity/orientation of all parts a couple
times while they're begin installed, and to check them again
Good Morning Group,
A question about the Hustler 6BTV (used for my K2 - so not completely off
topic).
When I replaced my old 4BTV with the 6BTV there was no mention of whether or
not to use the 6 spoke spider (yeah, should be insect) that sat beneath the
40 meter section.
Anybody doing this? I
Bill,
I know of no interaction between the K2 RANT and the receiver muting time.
Before looking at the receiver muting, I suggest that you look at the
amplifier T/R relay dropout time first - for instance if there is a sizable
capacitor across the coil (bigger than .001 uf) it may be holding the
I know that several of you also use N1MM for contesting. I am having
diffilculties in making N1MM CW-key my IC-781 like it dit before. It seems
that I am missing a file somewhere. DLportio.sys device driver not loaded.
Port I/O will have no effect, it says.
Both the dlportio.dll and the
Hopefully not a silly question...
If I connect NGEN to my K2 but leave it switched off, I have a certain
level of background noise. If I turn NGEN on, there's no noticeable
increase in background noise.
Have I missed something? Is AGC compensating for the increase in noise?
... or is my NGEN
I would expect a noticeable increase in noise. Try this: see if you can tune
in some signal with the NGEN connected (perhaps connect a clip lead to the
antenna terminal as well if needed). Listen to the signal with the NGEN on
and off. There should be a difference, even if the AGC is coming into
Better yet, turn off AGC. You must turn off AGC to get much meaningful out
of s'gram anyhow.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
PS: Off is PRE/ATT AGC together.
snip
I would expect a noticeable increase in noise. Try this: see if you can tune
in some signal with the NGEN connected (perhaps connect a clip
Noise increase should be unmistakable. Make sure the MMIC isn't in
backwards :) If you have a key attached, and happened to transmit
into it, just order replacement MMIC (get 3, about $10 delivered :)
from Elecraft.
de john/w1rt
On 1/29/06, Nick Waterman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hopefully not
Hi
First make sure your 9 volt battery is good. It should measure at least 8
volts or higher.
My N-Gen did not work also when I built it. The problem was the Zener diode
was not producing noise. This sometimes happens with a particularly good
diode. Remember this noise is normally an
John D'Ausilio wrote:
Noise increase should be unmistakable. Make sure the MMIC isn't in
backwards :)
I was wondering if I'd mounted it upside down, but as both the top and
bottom leads are grounded, it looks as though, as long as the slanted
lead is towards the centre of the board, I can't
The most recent additions to our line of high-performance mini-modules
include the XG2 test oscillator, BL2 250W balun, 2T-Gen two-tone test
generator, and CP1 directional coupler. Each of these now has an Eham
product review page:
BL2 http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/5646
XG2
Hi
You can use your K2 as a tester for the N-gen. Just use a probe made up of
some RG58 connected to the antenna input of the K2 and install a small
capacitor (around .01) in series with the probe end. You can then touch the
probe to the zener diode cathode. You should hear an increase in the
Hi
For those of you out there with OHR WM-2 wattmeters that want use it at
higher powers of the K2/100 the CP1 is a great addition to your test
equipment. With it installed inline with the dummy load it picks off a
sample of the RF and feeds it to the WM-2. You can then use the one watt
scale
Nick Waterman wrote:
If I connect NGEN to my K2 but leave it switched off, I have a certain
level of background noise. If I turn NGEN on, there's no noticeable
increase in background noise.
Hi Nick,
Your N-gen should definitely provide an audible increase in noise when
connected to the K2.
Hi Guys,
I am building a K2 for a friend. I am at the first power test point in
the manual. The K2 has no display and no relays clicking on power up. I
have checked the basics and here is what I have found so far:
I have gone over the front panel board, control board and RF boards with
my
Glenn,
While it certainly does sound like your 7805 regulator has gone 'belly up'
(you said it clicked relays at first and then stopped), I would revisit the
resistance readings at the output pin of U5 as a first order of business.
If you still fine 2k resistance on that line, then suspect the
I was installing the K60XV in my K2 and I hit a glitch. After installing the
module I was doing the initial test and as luck would have it the 60 meter band
didn't appear.
OK, go to troubleshooting. Checked to make sure it was plugged in correctly.
It was. And no signals were heard on
I have searched the internet in vain looking for a Fluke 6080a/an signal
generator service manual. Fluke does not post this particular manual on their
site and I have only been able to find an Ops. manual. I am trying to restore
a mostly functioning generator and the ops manual does not have
There's an old chap in my local club, CW demon, able to hold 2 CW QSOs
on 2 rigs and chat to someone in the shack simultaneously. Recently been
quite frail after a collapsed lung, and I was visiting him to mend his
antennas for him. He has a K2, with which he's won all sorts of QRP
awards and
The small inductors (L2, L3, L4) act as fuses. If any of these are open it
will not work. If all of these are good then there is a good possibility it
could be the K2 MCU. I zapped mine when a nearby lightning strike hit with
the antenna still connected. The rig worked BUT the inductors, K2
Hello All-
Just doing my page 43 voltage tests on the KPA100. The D13 cathode reads
179 instead of 90 to 150 and U4 pin 8 reads -28 instead of -5 to -25.
Anything to worry about?
TP1 has a symbol and pad on the PC board. It also has no part that I
can find, nor is it listed
in the parts
Unable to hear anyone at 3:15PM EST on 14050 in Atlanta, GA. I have church
commitments at 6PM, so my only time is the afternoon session. I'll try again
next week. Then again, maybe I didn't know what to listen for since this would
be my first cw net.
Clark, KE4RQ
Nick,
Tom Hammond created a list of 'things likely to be damaged' by plugging a PC
type cable directly into the K2 AUX IO connector. I do not see it on Tom's
website, but you should be able to find it in the Elecraft reflector
archives.
In truth, other than the KIO2 components themselves, any
I wanted to try out a Electret Mic (old computer mic) with my K2, so came up
with the following to provide the bias voltage. I took a computer jumper
short and carefully with my Demel tool cut the short (at the top of the
jumper), then probed around a old junked computer board till I found a
HI all
Doesn’t time fly,
I started 5324 on Thursday and now im upto the second stage test,
One Question, I have had is a missing part (RP1) from the front panel which
means the switches don’t work correctly (Scotts sending me one) . I have
another working K2 here so I will “borrow” that
Greetings all,
Well my moment of truth has come - and gone - on #5229.
Plenty of power from my power source. Plenty of power coming in on
J3. But
none when I hook up to P3 on the K2, because no power on the pads of
J4.
K2 works fine on it's own DC input and I don't think it's the P3
I feel very stupid as an experienced kit builder I made a rookie
mistake. I could not get the K2 to power up at all. I checked and
rechecked everything. I ended up taking my old working K2 s/n323 apart
and started swapping things around. The control board was good in my K2.
My front panel
Hello all:
I'm sure this is a rookie question to all you seasoned pros, but as I'm
expecting delivery of my K2 tomorrow, I figured, what the heck?
In looking through the build manual for the K2 I see no recommendation to
use any kind of heat sink devices when soldering in various components. I
Back in the days when those tiny devices started to replace things that glow
when we were using those 100 watt irons or guns, they sure did make it
clear you better you better clip a heat sink between the device and where
you were soldering. Seems over the years the devices have improved a bit,
Louis, KE5GIU wrote:
I'm sure this is a rookie question to all you seasoned pros, but as I'm
expecting delivery of my K2 tomorrow, I figured, what the heck?
In looking through the build manual for the K2 I see no recommendation to
use any kind of heat sink devices when soldering in various
I have received a suggestion from Don Wilhelm to install an RFC from the Rx
port to ground, and this solved the problem.
Many thanks to Don for his advice and prompt response.
Bill Stewart,
WU0R
_
From: William Stewart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 28,
Good Evening,
Well that was fun! Twenty meters changed within ten minutes of the
start. I was met by a wall of sound when I first called CQ so I had to do
it again to sort them out. That was nice. I know I missed a few of you
as you faded out before I had a chance to work you. I worked
For the short period I had an HP 141T spectrum analyzer, I played
around with my noise gen a bit, and I was able to get a view showing
the noise of the N-Gen over a wide range, it looked like a fuzzy little
catarpillar, I should have taken a pic.
You should be able to test your N-Gen on any
I just completed the KAT100. Everything checked out going through the checks
and calibration. Problem is when I tune, 1.0-1 displays on the K2 but no
relay action occurs on the tuner and no SWR LED's come on. When I transmit,
a high reflection message displays on the K2. Tuner is set to auto.
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