Yea, that is what has been keeping me away from 160m. I have several on
going projects, and I can't start one of that magnitude now. Might have
room for a dipole, so will just have to try that. Once I order some
ladder line.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Dave,
As
Yes, and it doesn't work. This is the second 80m horizontal loop I have
had, and they just do not like going low.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Don wrote:
Have you tried using the antenna on 160 through a tuner just as it is?
Chances are you can match it even on 160M and if you do you
when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range..
looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use
the 80khz range..
is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back
to the 80khz range?
thanks!
--
___
peace,
sergio
photographer,
If I disconnected one side of the loop from balun, at that point (at
least from what I have looked at on the web) it is similar to an
inverted L with the wire wondering around instead of going off in one
direction like it should. At that point, an inverted L would need
radials. Problem is,
So far I have been soldering in a space of about 2' x 2', and building
in a space of about 1' x 4'. I have sorted the parts out into a couple
of plastic containers (not the ESD sensitive stuff). I have the
container laid out to the side, and the card in front of me for
building. It is a bit
Not sure where you are suggesting I open it. I was considering
disconnecting the feedline on one side where it connected to the balun.
Is this what you mean. My apologies if it is a silly question.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Rick Hiller wrote:
Dave,
Another possibility for 160 --
There is a book called Crustal Fier about the invention of the
transistor. In it, I read that Shockley wanted to make an FET, but
Brattain and Bardeen, working for him, semi-secretly switched to working
on a point-contact device which was easier to get working. As a result,
Brattain's name
I wanted to report that the K2 (#5230) with KSB2 SSB board and Kenwood
MC
43S mic was used for my first contact with a local ham. He has a K2 and
was interested in hearing my radio because he has never heard a K2 voice
transmission. Said I sounded fine and the mic and board were working
well.
If your interested
Here is My loaded 160M antenna.
http://www.kc5wa.us/ANT160M.JPG
BW is a bit narrow but works FB.
RC kc5wa
-
Rick Hiller wrote:
Dave,
Another possibility for 160 -- Don't know to what
extent/effort you want to
go to get on 160, but here is an easy way, although,
a
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
If I disconnected one side of the loop from balun, at that point (at
least from what I have looked at on the web) it is similar to an
inverted L with the wire wondering around instead of going off in one
direction like it should. At that
Dave,
Open it at the point 180 degrees (midway around) from the feedpoint. If
your existing loop is a full wavelength on 80 meters, opening it will turn
the loop into a folded back 1/2 wave dipole on 160 meters - not as good as
straight out, but it should work since you are feeding the line with
Hi All..
Just introducing myself. I'll probably be around for awhile as I will
soon be ordering a K2. I built dozens of Heathkits back in the day and
I've built quite a few homebrew audio amps and guitar amps (mostly
vintage Fender and Marshall circuits). I have a fondness for tube gear
and I'm
Hi
I would like to use a KRC2 with my K2 to;
bandswith my amp
bandswitch my tuner (better yet set switchs on band segments)
control a remote antenna switch (multiple bands for each antenna)
provide one button tune
for the tuning I would like to hit a button somewhere and have:
the amp
When I built my K1 I built it for 150 KHz tuning. I
wanted more band coverage. It tuned too fast. So I
changed it to about 100 KHz. And now I have it set to
the STRONGLY ADVISED setting.
It is wonderful to have a rig that you can open up and
try some wild idea that you have.
Some pics and info on
Dave,
Welcome and good luck with the K2. I just finished a basic K2 last week and am
using it with a 6BTV. In fact the antenna is not well-tuned yet, no radials
(but the ground pipe is probably in water), and I am not using a tuner. Just
wanted to fire up the rig for testing, and I worked
That is definitely getting interesting. So I want to block 160m from
going through, but pass 80m and above. Does that sound do able? With
the number of people that run horizontal loops you would think this
would be going on more.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Dave,
Welcome David and believe me you won't be sorry. I have only 1 HF rig in
the shack and it's been the K2 for years now. I have gone thru multiple
other mobile rigs for my car including the K2, but I didn't have space up
front for the K2 to mount properly, I've finally settled on a TS480SAT for
We are (at long last!) releasing the KRC2 configuration program this
next week.
73, Eric WA6HHQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Several sources mention great
capabilities with a configuration program that I can not find anywhere.
Does this program exist? Can the KCR2 act on frequency data from the
Hello All,
Several weeks ago, I posted the attached e-mail describing my
problems with RF in the shack distorting the audio when transmitting. I
received many responses with good suggestions about how the cure the
problem -- thank you to all of you who responded, and especially thank
you
when i built my k1, i set it up for the 150khz range..
looking back at my manual, it says that it is strongly advised to use
the 80khz range..
is it strongly enough advised for me to mod my machine and put it back
to the 80khz range?
No, that's really bad advice unless you live in an ITU
Dave (and Don),
Not a silly question, Dave, what so ever.
My suggestion was to open it up 90 degrees from the present feed-point, 1/4
way around...this being a voltage maximum (loop) and current minimum (node).
This enables the loop to still act like a loop on 80, if you desire to
maintain
Off Topic
Hehe.. Well now I wish I had posted the mic for sale here instead of
putting it on eBay!! :)
The auction ends Thursday night and it's already bid up to $710.00 (I
paid $650 for it new about a year ago - hehe - I love eBay). The mic is
a Neumann TLM-103 large diaphragm condenser. I used
Rick,
The only problem with that is the high voltage point on a fullwave loop is
electriclly opposite the feedpoint, not 1/4 wave away from the feedpoint.
It is true that opening it at the 80 meter 1/4 wave point would create an
off-center fed 160 meter dipole that has been bent back on itself,
I don't think anyone posted this to the
Elecraft reflector but I know many QRPers are
here also. If you hear me, call with 1 Watt
before you QRO (more points for us Kritters).
I'll be using my Beverages for receive and will
probably hear you. Good luck with your kills!
Hi Tom.. That encouraging. If you're making DX contacts on the 6BTV
with low power AND no radials, then that pipe must be in water or your
backyard is copper plated. :)
I just put mine up last week. I ran sixteen 30ft radials on top of the
ground using wire staples. It works! I'm getting less
Hi y'all, if you have a KX1 base model or any of the accessories in any
condition, please drop me a line. tnx es 73, Casey, NA7U
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Wayne -
(OT, but I post this as a service to the king )
I've tried the SM-57 for recording gtr and vocals. Not great, but I'm
not prepared to spend money on a mic. I ended up with an Audio Technica
ATM-31a for about $130. It is a condenser mic that I use for live
vocals as well as for
Now this is a nice OT posting...
If you're looking into a nice set of mics for recording, don't forget to
check out the Neumann KM184s. They're not too large and sound awesome. I've
got a matched pair that I use regularly on live gigs and recordings and they
take just about anything you throw
Has anyone on the list used the Gap Antenna Products Hear it Noise
Eliminating Module on their K2? There was an interesting article on the
product in March QST on page 51. The reviewer used the product on a Yaesu
Mark V and seemed very satisfied with the results.
Jim and the group,
At every field day, our club W5KA uses 80 M Inverted Double Extended Zepp
element wire doublets.
We have had up to 250 feet of two types of window line, and with the large
Dentron tuner, we have a low loss match, and it works every signal we hear.
That is on multiple bands
How low did you have your horizontal loop? We always use a 2 wave or so one
for field day, (80m), but mostly use it on 40m and up to 15m. It is always
only 20 feet high, as that is the limit of reach of our portable ladder.
We get great signal reports, and work all over the country from the
Regarding open wire line, I generally use something in the vicinity of 450
ohms. That is an easy size to buy or fabricate and produces a fairly low SWR
when used to feed most doublets. While open wire lines are low-loss, they
are not lossless. SWR does matter, just no where near as much as when
Mike and the group,
I am currently routing heavy duty 300 ohm twin lead from a 5/8 leg 20m
antenna, thru a slot cut into some foam pipe insulation that acts as a panel
in the bottom of a aluminum sash window. The window has aluminum sill, and
frame, and individual panes of glass with aluminum
After contemplating it a bit, I would say that it is 75 to 80 feet up.
I had a similar one at my previous house up about 90 feet. It worked
great. I broke more than one pileup while barefoot. I'm hoping this
one works better after I get some 450 ohm ladder line on it. The both
have tuned
In a message dated 2/21/07 4:59:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
our club W5KA uses 80 M Inverted Double Extended Zepp
element wire doublets.
If my math is right, that works out to about 330-340 feet of wire,
center-fed!
We have had up to 250 feet of two types
Given all the discussion about the various antennas
I do wire antenna seminars at conventions and hamfests, and
usually in some way tell my audience the following:
NO antenna is ever high enough! (:-)
Many years ago ... 50+ ... I put up (too) many antennas in
the quest for the perfect
I doubt that it would be as effective as the noise reduction feature of the
KDSP2 module.
73,
Chuck NI0C
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I absolutely and completely agree with Ken, despite having only half of his
experience. (30 years, and only two towers - 100' 125' with six rotatable
beams). The old fashioned open wire dipole - doublet to our UK brethren -
when fed with a proper balanced tuner - is extremely efficient and
If you've not yet annotated your K2 manual for rework-free assembly, then
you will definitely want to download our very lasted (version 6 revision P)
Companion Guide, which went live within the hour. We have reduced the
fading to the point that it should be possible to use the Companion Guide
Slightly off topic - my wife and I are planning a two week trip to northern
Italy this summer and I'd like to chat with any of our Italian subscribers to
our list for some advice about operating with my K1 while there (or from any
Elecrafters who have done so). Please reply off list to [EMAIL
Yes I have the Gap in-line unit. It works well for noise reduction.
There are however no DSP selectable filters other than the noise reduction.
The DSP option for the K2 does an admirable job of noise reduction with
the user selected and user adjustable DSP filters.
The Gap In-Line DSP noise
If I add the KPA100 to my K2 and decide I want to operate qrp, is
there a way to bypass the kpa100, or do you just turn down the
power knob? It will be a long time before I fully understand the K2.
Thanks
Scott N5SM K2 #5846
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Slightly off topic - my wife and I are planning a two week trip to northern Italy
this summer and I'd like to chat with any of our Italian subscribers to our list
for some advice about operating with my K1 while there (or from any Elecrafters who
have done so).
Just power the unit from the lower coaxial power jack and you have a QRP
rig. If you turn the power down you'll get the same thing but you'll have
higher current draw due to the idling current and circuits in the amp.
Gregg W9DHI
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
You can QRP two ways:
1) Turn the power down (the obvious). The POWER control runs from zero to
100+ watts. The KPA100 is switched out of the transmit path below 10 watts.
2) You can switch the KPA100 amplifier off using the MENU command. Now the
rig behaves exactly like it did without the
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
We are (at long last!) releasing the KRC2 configuration program this
next week.
73, Eric WA6HHQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Several sources mention great
capabilities with a configuration program that I can not find anywhere.
Does this program exist?
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