Jeff,
That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for
a period of time. It is mostly the result of heating in the PA
transistors. In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a
constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be
Adding options to the K2 is, generally speaking, very easy, and the
order doesn't matter a whole lot. There is one exception: some of the
options require parts to be placed on the back portion of the board.
The power transisters use the bottom back panel as a heat sink, and they
are assembled as
David,
If your amp only requires 30 watts for full drive AND it is truly
linear, you should be able to tune it successfully with a 5 to 10 watt
input where the power is a bit more steady and then increase the level
to obtain full output. Just a suggestion.
If the variation is quite
Peter,
You are correct, I forgot about the connector for the KAT2 input coax
(AUX RF). You will just have to chalk that one up to a 'senior moment' G.
73,
Don W3FPR
Peter Wollan wrote:
Four of the options you list put something on the back part of the
board, so would require removing and
Its really confusing, so I recommend ignoring the power out
of the base K2.
The rig seems to measure then correct the power out, with differences
between the tune function and regular key down modes.
The tune function seems to calibrate the regular key down power out...
The K2 measures the power
Perhaps an engineer on the list can help with this... I am fascinated by the
HammCom powersupply using an ultracapacitor (or supercapacitor) to deal with
intermitten power demand of CW.
It must be a simple task to add such a thing to, say, an Astron RS12 power
supply so that it would handle
Thanks Don and others for the answers.
In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be
fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I
thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are
we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a
Jeff,
If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power
to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps
from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my
first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation.
Dear all,
After a lot of checking and checking I still have this problem. I
removed T4 and did dubble check. I did replace the coax cable by a
teflon coax cable. I did set R26 and R27 to 43K. Sometimes when
turning C1 it is possible to set 1.0-1 but than it reduces the power
to 0 watts.
Hi all..
I've just completed the initial testing and alignment on the KPA100.
Everything checks out fine. All resistance and voltage measurements are
within spec and I'm getting 100+ watts out on all bands. However I'm
getting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls the K2
every
David Fleming wrote:
I've just completed the initial testing and alignment on the KPA100.
Everything checks out fine. All resistance and voltage measurements are
within spec and I'm getting 100+ watts out on all bands. However I'm
getting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls
I once had this problem too. I traced the problem to the routing of the
ribbon cable from the K2 to the KPA100.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Fleming
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:56 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:
Hi,
Just picked up my first three Elecraft kits, the W1, W1SERKT, and the
DL1. I finished the DL1 this past weekend and just completed the W1SERKT
a few minutes ago after doing much of the work on the W1. I stopped
working on the W1 when I got to winding the magnet wire on the binocular
From David W4SMT
However I'mgetting some annoying noise from the RS-232. My software polls
the K2 every 250ms (4 times per second) and it generates noise on all bands
every time it's polled.
Hello David,
Did you left the frequency counter test cable connected to TP2 (BFO)?
73 de Pierre
Did you left the frequency counter test cable connected to TP2 (BFO)?
73 de Pierre VE2PID
uhh..YES, I did leave the freq counter cable. Is that the problem? I'm
at work right now and can't test it. I'll also try repositioning the
ribbon cable as others have suggested.
Thanks to all that
Think of it as two long toroids side by side. The two sides are treated
as two transformers and wound separately. You count turns the same way,
ie. a pass through the hole counts as a turn. If you count turns on the
outside edge, you will count 1 less. A 10 turn winding will have 9
turns on
Hi Pierre.. YES, I did leave the freq counter cable. Is that the problem?
I'm at work right now and can't test it.
Thanks.. David, W4SMT
David,
I just wanted to know if your cable was still in place before opening my K2.
I have the same noise problem, especially on 20 m, and guessed that the
Don, thanks.
I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the
upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic.
When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until
I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the
power knob.
I spend a lot of time on
There's two separate windings on that binocular core, John. Each winding
goes through only ONE hole in the core and around the end of the core next
to the hole. So you count a always: each pass through the hole is one turn.
See Figure 2 on page 6 of the manual where the text says, ...The wire
Hello
Thanks for all who advised.
Problem is now solved.
Had to use RTS and not DTR, and also changed the 1n4148 diodes to 1n5288
(sk).
73, Isaac
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Jeff,
I was really asking if the power jumped to 160 watts regardless of the
setting of the power control so I could better suggest where the problem
might be - apparently it does not go to 160 watts if you set the power
lower.
That behavior is not normal, and right now I would strongly
Thanks Don, I'll begin looking...
Jeff
On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jeff,
I was really asking if the power jumped to 160 watts regardless of the
setting of the power control so I could better suggest where the problem
might be - apparently it does not go to 160 watts if
With regards to the XG2, in addition to everything else it can do, can it also
calibrate the main tuning control (VFO)
of tranceivers like the NorCal 40A? I am considering purchasing an XG2 for my
toolbox. I would greatly appreciate information on this.
Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
Hi
I have got to page 42, and I have a problem. Switching on I get the INFO 080
message. Pushing DISPLAY gives me the message 2.04p 255 for a few secs. Then I
get a frequency readout. Of course I have checked my soldering several times,
and I've changed U1, and even tried a known good Control
Dennis,
It can do that - IF and ONLY IF you first calibrate the XG2. It has
trimmers to adjust the frequency of the crystal, but you will need
something (calibrated frequency counter is easiest) to calibrate the XG2
first.
73,
Don W3FPR
Dennis Vavra wrote:
With regards to the XG2, in
I heard the hard keying effect on 40 meters last night. Kevin KD5ONS's K2
sounded like he was running my old Conar transmitter. It was propagation
related. Several stations sounded hard as I tuned across the band. With some
signals showing a slight aura wobble. I also observed the effect coming
Most sound card interface designs include isolation
between computer and radio signals using transformers
for audio and optoisolators or solid state relays for
PTT. If one wanted to have a sound card interface
connected at the same time as the KIO2 or KPA100
serial control cable, the signal
Don,
Thanks for the info abt the XG2/freq ctr. Could you recommend a make/model freq
ctr for kit blding that is not
too expensive? Iv'e looked at the MFJ web site but if you could recommend
another it would be of help.
Dennis vavra, AD5LY
___
Don,
Thanks for the info regarding the XG2/Freq Ctr. Could you recommend a
make/model freq ctr for kit building? Iv'e looked on the MFJ web site, but if
you have better ideas it would be of great help. Preferably one that is not too
expensive!!
Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
Dennis,
I would not recommend ANY kit frequency counter if one will be using it
for calibration purposes - unless you have some means of calibrating it.
I can recommend a recently calibrated HP or Fluke frequency counter -
you can sometimes find them used at auction sites, but they may not
Dear all,
Problem solved!! Bad soldering found!
Thanks!
73, Koert PA1KW
-
HAMRADIO - when everything else fails!
Koert Wilmink wrote:
Dear all,
After a lot of checking and checking I still have this problem. I
removed T4 and did dubble check. I did replace the coax cable by
Hi Don,
Problem fixed, I had omitted R64..works fine now !
Thanks,
73 Bryan GM3AKF
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I have a little portable counter (ancient - late 70's technology) that uses
a 4 MHz crystal. It was nothing fancy. It didn't even have a way to adjust
the crystal frequency. I had to add a small piston trimmer cap to the
design. I used it commercially to confirm that shipboard transmitters were
I can recommend the M3 FPM1 Frequency Counter and Power Meter..
http://www.m3electronix.com/fpm1.html
It's a great kit but the calibration problem still remains. For
calibration, M3 sells the RF Calibrator which is NOT a kit, but does
come calibrated by M3.
Removing the freq counter cable had no effect. Repositioning the ribbon
cable did help some, but the noise is still there. I tried positioning
the cable every way possible and found the most quite spot by routing it
back beneath the shield and then folding it sharply toward the front -
right
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