I find I have a place for a 6 meter beam. I don't have one but would
like to make one if feasible. Does anyone know of good plans for a 6
meter beam that would be realistic to make?
Might as well use the 6M ability of the K3
Thanks,
Gary
KA1J
Hi Richard,
In my opinion you have not installed the APP's correctly. I used them on my
K2, my K3 and all over the shack. I have used them mobile and on the bench.
I have even used them holding the K2 in my hand while I transmitted on SSB
to test a portable aerial. I have never had a problem
Hi Gary.
DK7ZB (http://www.qsl.net/dk7zb/start1.htm) has a lot of good designs.
I recently discovered the new promising design of G0KSC
(http://www.g0ksc.co.uk/) and I plan to change my DK7ZB yagis to the
design og G0KSC.
Vy 73 de Svend, OZ7UV
Gary wrote:
I find I have a place for a 6 meter
My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then
it fitted very snug.
Barry VK2BJ
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Post:
In a recent message, Barry Simpson vk...@optusnet.com.au writes
My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then
it fitted very snug.
I had no issue with this personally, but as it is a common problem there
would appear to be a need for a compression type spring washer
Hi Gary,
What length of boom would be practical for you?
In Canada I used homebrewed yagis on 6m from 1956 onwards, singles and
stacked, which were not difficult to build, and if I still have the
construction detail for the 6 el yagis on 24ft booms I could send it to you,
if 24ft is not too
Richard,
you can get this connector in different versions. The 2,1mm and 2,5mm look
very similar, bat of coarse they are not :-)
If you by accident use a 2.5 type it will result in exact the problem you
describe because the K2 Jack is 2,1mm
73 de Peter, DL2FI
-Original Message-
From:
Hello Richard,
What you're describing is not normal. Are you saying the plug pulls
out of the socket with very little effort? Or does it fit snugly, but
the connection drops out as you move the cord? If the plug fits very
loosely or comes out with very little effort, it sounds like you
Looking to purchase a second hand K2 ...preferably SN 3000+
Tks, Steve/wG0ATwg...@arrl.net
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Post:
Completed assembly yesterday. Rcvr works FB. When I try to xmit on any
band I get a Hi Current message. It reads 5 amps. External watt meter
connected to K2 and dummy load shows 10 watts but I cannot change the power
output
with the knob on the front panel. Also I don't hear any sig from
Hi all,
Not meaning to add to the wealth of info already on this topic, but I have a
specific question about the setting up your CW filters for the tonally
challenged article on the elecraft website.
Specifically, part of the instructions in it to read the BFO frequencies
after audibly finding
Hello Gary,
Welcome to the Magic Band! The K3 is a GREAT radio for 6m! You can compare
some
of the most popular 6m antennas on my web page here:
http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/6mTable.htm
Hams all around the world have had very good success and repeatability building
50
ohm yagis
My Kit just arrived WOO HOO, I will start with the inventory this afternoon,
suppose to be rainy this Saturday so guess that is what I will be doing. Got
the rework eliminators so that is a go, solder, pcb vice and bench ready to
go... I will keep ya posted on my progress.
KE5EBS
Patrick
I've been using the Route 66 OWA antenna by W4RNL (LB Cebik) and it's worked
out quite well for me. The driven element is a dipole and there is no matching
structure (gamma / tee / balun) required. Just type in W4RNK in google,
establish an account for the site and then go to
Funny, I found myself searching through the menus, looking for the VOX
Delay, and found that it is right on the front panel.
Push and hold the Speed/Mic knob. In CW mode, it is the semi QSK delay.
In SSB mode, it is the Vox delay.
73,
-- Dave, N8SBE
Original Message
Are you shaking the
radio?
Bob,
Yes. That's exactly what I am doing. When I would flip my K3 over onto its
back or side during initial assembly and subsequent modifications, the sound
of the rattling washer always caused me to stop and check the inside of the
radio for potentially lost
If you're looking for a relatively compact six meter beam antenna, consider a
three element quad.
Dimensions are available at http://www2.mmae.ucf.edu/~ssd/ham/quadcalc.html,
which has a Java calculator for various quads, based on formulae developed by
the legendary antenna guru, L. B. Cebik,
Somehow the official Elecraft message for this isn't showing up so I'm
copying this info from their web page:
MCU 3.79 / DSP 2.54 March 17, 2010
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm
Leigh/WA5ZNU
--
View this message in context:
I love my K3 (#3271), but I have a question and I can't believe I'm alone.
You
seem to have missed the boat when it comes to tuning increments. Thus,
why
is there no actual 'Fast' tuning in the second position of the fast
button? Rather, while complimenting the cycle by cycle capability
Is it exactly the same as the 3.79 version that volunteers were asked to
test?
Dunc, W5DC
Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU wrote:
Somehow the official Elecraft message for this isn't showing up so I'm
copying this info from their web page:
MCU 3.79 / DSP 2.54 March 17, 2010
Hmmm, it worked for me just to run the Elecraft Utility and tell it to check
for new firmware.
The link I posted is to the K3 software news page which has all the changes,
instructions, etc.
It's not a link to a zip file directly.
Usually Elecraft sends out a mail message about the production
The Elecraft utility shows the same version numbers for the 3.79 beta as
for the current version so I guess there's no reason for me to update.
The beta version worked without any problems whatsoever.
Dunc, W5DC
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Elecraft mailing
Lew Phelps K6LMP wrote If you're looking for a relatively compact six
meter beam antenna, consider a three element quad.
Or a four element, see my web pages for the dimensions of a portable 4
element quad http://www.astromag.co.uk/quad/
It might not be what you want, but
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 10:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Production Release MCU 3.79 / DSP
See CONFIG:VFO CRS and CONFIG:VFO FST in the manual (page 61)
73
--
Joe KB8AP
On Mar 19, 2010, at 10:24 AM, John wrote:
I love my K3 (#3271), but I have a question and I can't believe I'm
alone.
You
seem to have missed the boat when it comes to tuning increments.
Thus,
why
is there
In Mac OS, I created a folder in Library Application Support Elecraft K3
Firmware and named it k3fw3r79
Then I told the utility to browse for that folder and then Check Versions Now
All of the necessary files downloaded as if they had been created from a zip
file except that they are labeled
Hello Gary,
Just be careful comparing information you receive from different sources! That
is
why we put together the VE7BQH comparison table, with all antennas listed in
FREE
SPACE GAIN COMPARED TO A DIPOLE (DBD). Gain figures look unbelievably good
when an
antenna gain in dBi is
Great construction notes, Dave!
However, I don't see the advantage of the longer boom and fourth element
required with your design. With the 3 element design I described, free space
gain (as modeled with cocoaNEC) is virtually the same as your four element
design, while boom length is only
OK, point well taken. I was comparing dBi (isotropic antenna) to dBd (dipole),
and that is not appropriate. However, the gain figures I quoted are free space
calculations.
To correct the comparison, the free space difference is 2.15 dB
(reference:
Look in the manual about using CONFIG:VFO CRS.
--- On Fri, 3/19/10, John j...@t6ee.com wrote:
From: John j...@t6ee.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Tunig increments could be better
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Friday, March 19, 2010, 11:24 AM
I love my K3 (#3271), but I have a
question and I
Gary and All,
I just completed building a 6 meter beam based on info from DK7ZB's website.
He has a large assortment of choices there, with various boom lengths and
elements. Mine is a 4 element on a 3.6 meter boom. It seems to work very
well! This website, and the designs thereon, were
For comparison, a 2 element quad, with a boom length of
about one meter, has only 7.07 dB gain, and although the
four element quad gives you an additional 0.8 dB gain with
the additional element, it comes at a high price -- the
boom is almost 30 feet long!
For a Yagi to achieve gain
A question for the reflector. Should an individual disclose a
commercial interest in a product when asking or answering a question
from or to the reflector or doesn't an individuals motivation mater?
R Thorpe AC9D
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Elecraft
In my opinion, definitely YES. The same situation exists on boards that
I visit that support machinery vibration analysis which is a field that
I work in. Not being up front usually ends up causing embarrassment for
the posting vendors and mis-information and confusion for the readers.
I
I have a K2 and a K3. I clearly see in the K2 manual that a special cable is
needed but it appears the K3 is a standard RS232 pinout.
1, I want to confirm the K3 does use a regular RS232 cable (before I fry
something!)
2. Does any manufacture K2 RS232 cables? I didn't see anything on the
Elecraft
2. Does any manufacture K2 RS232 cables?
Sure ... You do! The K2 is a 'melt-solder' kit. The K2 manual spells
out how to make the correct cable.
The K3 uses 'normal' 9pin serial cables. The K2's cable included
Elecraft's aux-bus info for the external ATU. The K3 mounts the ATU
internally. If a
The computer cable for the K2 requires only three wires connecting
pins 2, 3 and 5 on each end. The other pins must not be connected
since the KIO2 signals on these pins are not RS-232 capable.
Connecting them to an RS-232 connector will cause damage in the K2.
The K3 can use a standard
Ken:
The K3 uses a straight-through RS-232 cable with DB-9 connectors on either
end. The most common of these cables has all 9 pins connected, M-F, no
crossovers. The cable is described in the K3 Utility Help.
Not all of these pins are required for normal operation, but it doesn't hurt
to have
Thanks Dick and Jack...
I just wanted to be certain I was not missing something IRT to the K3.
I saw the info in the KIO2 manual on building the cable, but thought I had
seen something about pre-made cables (which would undoubtedly be MUCH
prettier than anything I can turn out!). As I bought the
Good luck and have fun, lots of it. Don't hesitate to drop a question in
here if/when they come up.
...robert
Patrick Bourgeois wrote:
My Kit just arrived WOO HOO, I will start with the inventory this afternoon,
suppose to be rainy this Saturday so guess that is what I will be doing.
Got
Finished install of my K144XV this AM. All works OK but, when I try to use
it with the sub receiever it is deaf. I have the sub set to Ant=Atu. Itried
using Ant=BNC but no luck here either. Sub works fine 160-6 but not 2 meter
SSB or FM.
What do I have set wrong?
Thanks Phil K8MBY
Well after much searching I find D2 in backwards Geo/W2BPI
From: w2b...@aol.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 3/18/2010 09:20:07 Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: K2 new build problem.
Completed assembly yesterday. Rcvr works FB. When
I've been battling what appeared to be a ground loop problem when I joined the
two K3s using a DX Doubler. I would hear low-level hum on both audio outputs,
and it got louder when either was keyed.
Tonight, I hooked up the radios to separate dummy loads and removed all I/O
except RS-232, ACC,
On Dec 8, 2009, at 11:16 AM, Sergey Dan wrote:
Do I need to see S meter reading changes when choosing between ATT and
PRE ?
Yes, you should definitely seen significant S meter reading changes when
cycling through the Attenuator to the Preamp.
Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail:
This is a classic ground loop (or pin 1) problem. When
transmitting on radio 1, some of the power supply return current
follows the shield of the PTT, mic and headphone cables to the
DXDoubler, through the other cable shields to chassis of Radio 2
and then back to the common power supply.
Wow, many great replies!
I am going to make an antenna for 6M, just seems like the right thing
to do. I am somewhat height challenged as the house is a one story
and the rotor is on a roof mount. Realistic height is probably 25-30'
tops to the top of the rotor. On the other hand, the house is
I too would be curious to know the answer to this one.
~Brett
On Thu, 2010-03-18 at 18:58 -0400, Phillip Buckholdt wrote:
Finished install of my K144XV this AM. All works OK but, when I try to use
it with the sub receiever it is deaf. I have the sub set to Ant=Atu. Itried
using Ant=BNC but
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