Hello KX1 builders,
The construction of KX1 runs all ok up to page 54. However, the resistance
check for Q4 base and collector, Q5 base only give 5.6k resistance towards
ground instead of 10k as mentioned in the manual.
Please advise whether this is still ok. I would like to make sure that
Johnny,
That is too low. Check the value of R24, R9, R27, R11 and R10. Check
carefully for any solder bridges.
You might also want to try new batteries in your DMM and try reversing
the leads on your DMM just in case its polarity is reversed from normal.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/30/2014 9:11
Hello Don,
Thanks. I was given an application note Rev B, April 2006. The R11 and R30
were replaced by 4.7 ohm and 33 ohm respectively.
I followed this note and replaced these two resistors instead of the values
mentioned in KX1 Owner's Manual May 2010.
Is this matter the resistance check?
73
Johnny,
Those changes would not make a significant difference in the readings
except for the Q6 base to ground measurement.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/30/2014 10:26 AM, Johnny Siu wrote:
Hello Don,
Thanks. I was given an application note Rev B, April 2006. The R11 and R30
were replaced by 4.7
Hold down the QSK side of the [BAND] button
watch the VFO B text
Holding down the QSK side again, toggles between FULL and SIMI break in.
the VFO B text will tell you when it switches,
as well as the QSK text under VBO A's display when you are in FULL
from page 30 in the manual:
Hold QSK to
QSK and full break-in mean the same thing. Not full break-in means that you
are holding TX state between bauds. That is what happens when you turn QSK
off. Fast QSK or QRQ QSK (CW QRQ option in CONFIG menu) has to do with
making the TX/RX state flips take so little time that you can hear between
Good Day,
Please join us this afternoon and evening.
14050 kHz at 2300z Sunday (3 PM PST Sunday)
7045 kHz at 0200z Monday (6 PM PST Sunday)
73,
Kevin. KD5ONS
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Home:
Hi
Just thought I'd drop a note about the Elecraft CW decoder. I've been on the
air for a number of hours hunting new DXCC's with the K3's built in CW decoder.
This was my first time using CW, I only know the letters CQ 5NN TU and that's
it! ( OK E also) Never been on CW before so all DXCC's
Tom,
cwops.org and click on CW Academy.
73,
Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
On 11/30/2014 3:32 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:
This was a
new experience and introduced me to CW. Now I want to learn it so the
P3-F and SVGA/FFT adapter card factory built P3 w/SVGA factory installed.Price
$800 save $240.00.P3 is 4 months old.I use the K3 as remote now so no longer
need.Payment by USPS money order only.No PayPal.Will ship USPS Priority Mail.
Thanks wb5xx
You will find that your DX increases a lot if you use CW! :)
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
This also was my first contest with my new KX-3. I didn't use the decoder
because I use mostly CW in my every day ops. The interface with my new logging
program with its access to DX spots gave me the most DXCC contacts ever! I
worked the world in couple of hour with only 5 watts.
Sent from
If you want to work more DX than you ever thought possible:
1. Learn enough CW to do basic exchanges.
Your speed and proficiency will increase dramatically by just doing it.
2. Get on 30 meters. Other countries have not abandoned CW
like the USA has. You will work DX after DX station.
You
That sounds interesting. I tried calling CQ with the terminal but that was a
disaster. Inevitably, the answering station was enough off frequency that the
radio wouldn't decode.
Also one thing I noticed with the decode. 9 out of 10 times the station
returned my call, the first letter was
Even better than calling CQ, listen. Then, follow the advice of The Old
Timer:
When you hear 'em, call 'em!
It's just that simple.
Mastery of CW will pay rich dividends if you want to be a DXer. All the
top ones have mastered it.
73 de W6OGC Jim Allen
On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 7:08 PM,
Tom,
I've used the Elecraft CW decoder; it's OK, but not great. I now use CWSkimmer.
It appears to be heads and shoulder above what Elecraft coded. Some my buddies
use CWget. They seem to really like that program.
However, there is technique that needs to be learned. As I stated, I use
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And, don't forget that CW is almost an international language. Even
if you don't speak any of the many foreign languages, most DX
operators understand the characters that we use for a QSO... QTH,
name, WX, RST. And when it's a DX station running... well, all you
get is your call and
Ok
So I'm sure this is going to get a lot of opinions... What's the best key to
start with?
With the k3 of course.
On Nov 30, 2014 10:04 PM, Ray Sills raysil...@verizon.net wrote:
And, don't forget that CW is almost an international language. Even
if you don't speak any of the many
Tom ... get a paddle and plug it into your K3! Many will tell you you
need to start with a straight key, and only when you're competent can
you actually try out a paddle. You will find they are universally old,
as am I, but get a paddle, plug it in and send!
I use the Bencher HexKey from
Blond, brunett, redhead...
Chevy, Ford, Plymouth ...
It's mostly a matter of personal preference, but until you know CW,
you're not likely to be qualified to know what you like.
If you want a paddle, the Benchers are very good. There isn't as wide a
choice in straight keys.
If you
A straight key ... any quality straight key. Don't move to
paddles or a bug until you learn proper timing/spacing.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 2014-11-30 10:27 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:
Ok
So I'm sure this is going to get a lot of opinions... What's the best key to
start with?
With the k3 of
I like the Vibroplex straight keY--it's smooth. For paddles, the Brass Racer
paddle (also Vibroplex, both current production). If you get the Bug bug, buy
an older Vibroplex bug with the I style damper, and a Vari-Eze (bar style) to
slow it down. You can send perfect code from 11wpm up. The
Hi
I knew I shouldn't of asked I now have suggestions of probably about 40 or
so keys...
I'll think I'll start pure.. Just a straight key. I had one, but the spring
flew out and I never found it. So I guess the vibroflex?
On Nov 30, 2014 10:52 PM, Eric Norris norrislawfi...@gmail.com
On Sun,11/30/2014 7:50 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
If you want a paddle, the Benchers are very good. There isn't as wide a choice
in straight keys.
My opinions. :) In today's world, only a purist needs or wants a
straight key. I agree the Bencher paddles are very good, and they're a
bargain
A straight key ... any quality straight key. Don't move to
paddles or a bug until you learn proper timing/spacing.
I have to agree. Straight key first, without question. VIbroplex, J-38, yada
yada, just about anything that is a decent key. Many to choose from. Learn
the code and
If I had to use a straight key, I would give up CW entirely. I went right to
paddles and a keyer.
I have about 20 various CW capable radios, every one of them has a built in
keyer
Does not a paddle and keyer give you perfect timing?
Leroy AB7CE
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
I agree, straight key first--unless you have tendon or other issues in your
hand/wrist/arm--in which case go to paddles. I can't use a straight key any
more for more than 20 minutes without a lot of pain.
Have fun! Oh, one more thing--there are fewer lids, asholes, and many more
superb ops
On Sun,11/30/2014 8:25 PM, Leroy Marion wrote:
Does not a paddle and keyer give you perfect timing?
It's been nearly 60 years since I went through that. Paddles and keyers
did not exist -- we had bugs, but did start on straight keys. But bugs
are inherently different from the paddle/keyer
I’m not a CW operator, but if you have any RSI issues from computer use, be
careful about spending a lot of time with a straight key. Professional
telegraphers got an early version of RSI called “glass arm”. It appears that
you can avoid that with excellent technique, the same way you avoid RSI
I like the comment about going through an intermediate step... Maybe I'll look
at a paddle instead.
So what's this about iambic? What are the types of paddles out there?
On Nov 30, 2014 11:42 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
On Sun,11/30/2014 8:25 PM, Leroy Marion wrote:
Does not a paddle and keyer give you perfect timing?
Absolutely not! One need only listen to the number of *BAD* fists
with paddles - maladjusted keyers, letters run together, short
word spaces, missing dits, etc. are all quite common.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
On 2014-11-30 11:25 PM, Leroy
I have from the Schurr Profi to home made keys.
One of the best I have is the Norcal paddles Kit key,.
It’s a magnetic(versus springs ) type key. I did put silver contacts on it.
It was picked up by Vibroplex and made as the Code Warrior, I think.
I don’t think Elecraft sells the
There is nothing inherent in a paddle that causes bad CW any more than
a straight key causes bad CW. There is tons of horrible CW sent with
straight keys. Just listen a bit. They are not hard to find.
If you want to learn good timing with either a paddle or straight key
then practice
Tom,
As a beginner, don't get hung up on iambic. It's really for the
advanced CW operator. It requires a double paddle, or squeeze key set
and when you squeeze the paddles, you send alternating dits and dahs.
Whether you send a dit or a dah first, is a matter if which side you
squeezed
I don't agree. How does a straight key help you achieve proper spacing? Some of
the worst sending I've ever heard comes from straight keys. Just get a paddle
and let the keyer do its job. Your job will be to pay attention to the letter
and word spacing.
Also, as others have said, don't get an
I couldn't agree more. I'm glad I finally discovered the single-lever paddle
after more than ten years of struggling with iambic. It is so much easier to
use the single-lever and it is much more forgiving for small timing errors.
I wrote about it on my blog some time ago:
Go with a paddle and electronic keyer, or use the inbuilt rig keyer, Iambic
or not is up to you, also Mode A or B whichever feels comfortable.
You can play with the straight if you wish key when you know how good CW
sounds.
Most important... LISTEN to what good CW sounds like, using programs such
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