Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply until later.
Hi All,
I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use together. I have everything
connected properly, the K2 set to Hand for the input device, and the the cables I made
are properly
) will cause the behavior you have mentioned.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/25/2013 8:18 PM, David Dietrich wrote:
Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply
until later.
Hi All,
I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use
together. I have everything connected
, at 09:22 PM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote:
You MUST use a stereo plug in the K2 key jack. A mono plug will short the 'ring'
connection to ground, which will key the rig. In HAND mode, either tip or ring will key
the K2 when grounded.
On 2/25/2013 7:15 PM, David Dietrich wrote:
Hello
Hello All,
Thanks to those who replied. I figured a few of you would be able to point me
in the right direction. =)
Well, I guess I need to make a trip to Radio Shack tomorrow and get another
cable and some stereo plugs this time around. All is not lost with the two
mono cables, as they
Test from new E-mail…Please disregard.
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Ken,
Very good insight...Thanks for sharing!
Rose has a scar on her arm from when she was painting an outside wall years
ago while I was on the air with a KW.
AND YOU ARE STILL ALIVE, MARRIED, AND STILL HAVE A HAM STATION AFTER
THAT?!?!?!?!?! If that happened to my wife, Trina, she would
Hi Jim,
Easiest and cheapest would be to go to Radio Shack and get a mic connector,
break it to get the collar, then fashion a small circle out of sheet metal to
fit the opening in the collar. You can then leave it silver in color or paint
it. Also, put a tab of electrical tape on the inside
Along with what Don Wilhelm suggests, I would also look at all the RF board SMT
IC's on daughterboards and see if any of the pins on the IC's themselves are
not 100% soldered. I had a similiar problem on my K2, and the problem turned
out to be an unsoldered pin. Once it was soldered, and a
Howdy All,
Regardless whether you are a member of FISTS or not, their annual Get Your Feet
Wet Weekend is happening RIGHT NOW until 2359z on Sunday. I am sending this
message out because I am taking part and the participation is *very* sparse to
say the least. So, if you have time this
Don Wilhelm is right about filters...I get the individual messages and
filtering is the way to go. Since I don't own a K3, I have all those messages
immediately sent to trash (sorry) so my inbox isn't overwhelmed.
73,
David
KC9EHQ
From: Mark Kempisty
Tom et al,
That is why I use an external gel cell, and didn't opt for the internal
battery. As we all know, rechargable batteries have a finite life and
do lose their charge over time.
73,
David
KC9EHQ
K1-4 s/n 2051
K2/10 s/n 7164
Hi All,
Cable X-Perts possibly does custom cables. I don't buy from them because their
prices are much higher than AES/HRO, but I remember reading that Universal
Radio would do custom cable assemblies. Perhaps DX Engineering also. They seem
to have everything related to antennas and feedlines.
Hello Everyone!
I am planning on building a multi-band dipole fed with 450 Ohm ladder line
soon. I have a K1 K2, both with the ATU's installed, and the BL2 switchable
balun. I was wondering if I could connect the balun directly to the back of
the K1/K2 when I use this antenna? My other
I have read a couple of posts, and this is a very interesting topic for me with
that I am going to be investigating in the house. As others have stated,
certain appliances do radiate RF due to their power supplies and such. This is
why it is important to shut down your house and bring it back
Hi All,
Could someone please explain the proper way to track down RF noise in and
around my house? More often than not, I always have S9+ noise on 40 Meters,
making anything but really strong signals (S9+) audible above the noise. I
have only had a few instances where the noise was below S9
Hello All!
My friend and I spent yesterday aligning my Norcal 40A and recently finished
K2/10 #7164. We really did not play too much with the K2 after we finished
aligning as we were also working on some other things in my shack.
When I was starting to really get to know the ins and outs of
...@embarqmail.com
To: David Dietrich kc9ehq2...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out accurate?
David,
Yes, I have several ideas. First of all, how confident are you of your QRP
wattmeter readings? Know
Evening All,
I neglected to mention this one piece of information with my issue on the
K2/10. The pinning of my Wattmeter happens when I have the K2 connected to my
outside antenna in this order: K2 to Wattmeter to outside antenna. This is
after I do a tune and get a low SWR. My K2 DOES
Hi All!
IT'S ALIVE!!! K2 #7164 is finally up and running as of last night! The SMT
diode on the bottom of the board wasn't properly connected to the daughter
board. There was a pad, but it wasn't connected to the actual component. A
couple hairs of wire fixed everything! Happy Day!!
I
Hi Everyone!
I am starting the second part of the K2 alignment. I went and redid the first
part of the alignment because I tweaked R1 by accident. Some of the numbers
came out different than the last time because I had more stuff on the board.
I do have a question about the 4 MHz Oscillator
Hi Everyone,
This has been happening to me frequently ever since I built my KAT-2. I keep
the solder I am using coiled in a spring shape in a small tube for easy
application. Every so often as I am touching the far end of the solder to
either tin the tip of the iron, or else actually solder
Hi Dale,
I find it hard to believe it is ESD because my soldering station is grounded
and ESD safe. I wear a strap whenever I need to. I work in my ham shack that
is my unfinished basement where the temp and humidity stay pretty constant year
round. I wear clothes made mostly of cotton. My
is.
The last thing I want to do is get really zapped or fry the K2 before it is
ever really used.
73,
David
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: David Dietrich kc9ehq2...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday
Hi Don,
Well, it is the outlet. I just heard a pop and some pyrotechnics from my
outlet I bought the AC line tester at Wal-Mart. I first plugged it in at
my power strip on the desk. It showed a n open ground. I then tested it at
the outlet at the surge protector. OK. I then removed
Thanks!! The original tester I bought is toast. I went to Home Depot to get a
new outlet and cover. I also got a new tester that also tests GFI also. I
installed the new outlet and cover and tested it. I got two amber lights. So
that outlet is OK. I definitely plan on testing ALL the outlets in
Evening Everyone,
I am totally done with the control panel, and right at the resistance check
part of the front panel on my K2. On some of my readings, I am not getting a
reading at all. I have a Meterman multimeter. When the probes are crossed,
0.4 or 0.5 Ohms are considered zero or ground
Hi Everybody!
I am finishing the assembly of my K2's front panel, and I installed the two
standoffs adjacent to the mic connector. Since they are on top of the board, I
notice that they are not going to be attached to anything. Are they just
spacers for the front panel PC board and chassis
Hi All,
I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the
instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go
smoother for me.
I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual
says to install all the relays
Everyone,
It looks like I solved the diode problem on my new KSB2 board!!! After taking
a day off from building, due to yesterday being a work day, I came back this
morning and took some desoldering wick to see if there was anything in the
diode holes. There was some stuff in there, and I
I know that many would want to see a do everything K4. However, something
like that could price it beyond the reach of most. Also, keeping a rig strictly
HF keeps things simple and does not compromise performance.
Just my $0.02 for what it's worth.
73,
David
KC9EHQ
Sent from my iPod
Hi All!
I already E-mailed Wayne about this, but I thought I would share this with the
rest of the group in case anyone got one of these recently and hasn't assembled
it yet. I bought the KSB2 with my K2...Unfortunately, when I bought the radio
and options, the KSB2 was out of stock. It took
All,
I misspoke when I said all the holes are too small. I made an assumption based
on one hole. However, D2 on my board is too tight of a fit on the anode or
cathode. I just checked the other holes, per Don's suggestion, and they seem
to accept the leads. I assumed that if one was the
Hi All!
I never did this when I built my K1-4, and I regret it, so I am really
documenting the build of my K2. I completed the 160 meter module yesterday,
and I hope to have the noise blanker done today. I am building the options
first, and then the K2. That way, they will be done and ready
Hi Everyone!
I have two questions that I would like to pose to the group about grounding and
soldering PC boards:
1. I know about ESD precautions, and I do take them. I have a wrist strap,
and my soldering iron is ESD safe. I am working on my K2 in the basement. I
have pained concrete
Hey all!
As I am looking at all the documentation that goes along with my K2 (10W) and
it's options, I have to ask myself this question: What have I gotten myself
into??? I am not a novice kit builder...I have built a K1-4, two other
Wilderness Radio QRP radios (Wayne's early work), and some
Hi Ron!
I just bought a K2 after wanting one for the last few years. I haven't built it
yet, but here is a rundown of what I got:
KNB2-a noise blanker is always nice to have.
K160M-not ideal for QRP, but still it is worth trying.
KAF2-I am mostly a CW guy. My ICOM and Yaesu both have DSP,
Hey All!
Please do not turn this into a thread, this thought just popped into my head
while I was walking my dog.
If Wayne Eric can get the KX3 into production by this fall, many of us will
be singing a new song to wives this Christmas Season: All I want for Christmas
is a KX3.
73,
David,
Hi All!
I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a few
year back. I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164. I'm
long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never.
I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio. I am not
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to quickly send out a very big THANK YOU to all who responded to
my BL2 antenna
question. The insight and help I got from various people across the US was
WONDERFUL! I am
really glad this forum exists for us Elecraft enthusiasts.
A quick follow up: I did
Whoops! I should have added this when I was composing last night. I have the
KAT1 tuner
installed. At the present, my four band module is for 40, 30, 20, 15. I
plan on at least
operating on 40 20 for sure, and possibly 15 if the SWR isn't too bad.
Original message below
for reference:
Howdy Everyone,
I am seriously considering the purchase construction of a BL2 switched balun
so I can construct
a lighter dipole antenna for field use than the dipole I have been using with
my K1-4 (#2051). I
am planning on taking the K1 down to TX over Christmas and I don't want to take
the
Hello All,
I hope that those of us in the US are enjoying the holiday weekend. I have a
question about the
C78 capacitor for 80 Meters on the K1. As I said in previous posts, My K1,
once built, will be
capable of all six bands. With that being said, If this capacitor is to help
with 80
Good Evening All K1-4 Owners,
Construction of the K1 itself starts tomorrow evening after work! When I got
my K1, I opted for
the 4-band radio as primary, and I purchased the two-band module extra. For my
four-band I chose:
40-30-20-15. I have 80 17 for the two band module.
It is starting
Greetings DE KC9EHQ,
I am a little over 1/2 way through my KNB1 before I start on my anniversary
present (K1).
My lab is set up in our basement where I have my table in front of a window. I
do have a small oscillating fan blowing air out the window. Is that enough to
keep the solder
into account the
two items on the Errata sheer for Revision C? Any insight would be helpful.
Thanks,
David Dietrich
KC9EHQ
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