I'm trying to understand exactly (well, more or less) what the 8R/8T settings
do.
In the primary menu, under T-R, you set it as either '8r hold' or '8r nor'.
The manual says to user the 'hold' option for all modes of operation. It also
says that it ...holds the 8R line low during the user
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does this imply that if I choose the 'nor' option, and have the T-R delay
time set to a longer period (say, 1 second), that the 8R line will not be
held low during the entire 1 second delay? And if not, what is the result?
I think that if you are talking about a K2
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 00:36:49 -0500, Dale Boresz wrote:
So, in my opinion, the KDSP2 offers far more performance and
versatility, and is worth the extra money.
I have the same experience as Dale, and the same rigs. My 746 (not a
pro) is loaded with Inrad filters for CW and SSB. My K2/100 has
Hi Gang,
I am SOOO pleased with my Bencher/Elecraft Hex paddle that I want to make sure
it stays clean and pretty until I become a SK. Does anyone know of a source
for a Paddle Dust Cover (plexiglass) for this jewel? I have been given a
couple of references (one WB3EVL and a WP4). One
On Feb 9, 2005, at 8:29 AM, Tony Martin W4FOA wrote:
Hi Gang,
I am SOOO pleased with my Bencher/Elecraft Hex paddle that I want to
make sure it stays clean and pretty until I become a SK. Does anyone
know of a source for a Paddle Dust Cover (plexiglass) for this jewel?
I have been given
wayne burdick wrote:
Hi Gang,
I am SOOO pleased with my Bencher/Elecraft Hex paddle that I want to
make sure it stays clean and pretty until I become a SK. Does anyone
know of a source for a Paddle Dust Cover (plexiglass) for this
jewel? I have been given a couple of references (one
Hi Geoff,
I'd add one more option/possibility: one suitable for
remote (at the antenna) mounting.
Keep the kit form option. It's a very easy build.
cheers,
Julius
n2wn
--- Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Julius,
Thanks for the fill in. I still have not received
the
I was wondering if anyone on the reflector has tried to observe a
transmitted keying waveform using the technique described on page 25.50 of
the 2005 ARRL Handbook, and depicted in Figures 25.86 and 25.87.
The Handbook makes no mention of what the Keying Test Generator is or how
to correctly
Hi Guys,
Just ran into a problem with the K-1 vfo checkout. Not getting signal from
the vfo so I need
a schematic for an RF probe. I tried to take a look at one on the Elecraft
site, but all I got was a blank page.
Double checked every component for correct value and all
solder connections
Noticed that Eric just made a reference to adding a
polyfuse to a KX1.
I added one to K1 # 1423. Details at:
http://tyrrell.us/amateur/k1modpolyfuse.html.
Comments please.
73, Ty
__
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage.
Don,
All it takes is a 0.01uf capacitor, a 1N34 diode, and a 4.7 megohm resistor
plus some wire and plugs to fit your DMM. There is a circuit diagram in the
troubleshooting section of the K2 manual, just download the manual from the
Elecraft site and search for 'RF Probe Assembly'.
If you want
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Nice photo on the pen probe.
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
Steve,
The setup pictured is IMHO overkill, but it covers all bases for any kind of
transmitter. No doubt the ARRL Lab has a semi-permanent setup for this
test, but all that equipment may not be required depending on what you wish
to conclude from your test
The Keying Test Generator is nothing
One of the issues in the operation of an auto tuner, is that it has to
transmit enough power to be rectified by silicon diodes detecting and
operating in a linear manner. Also, you have to transmit enough power to
break down the oxides on connectors, RF switches, antenna connections and
anything
Don:
Thanks very much. Yes, the ARRL setup is serious overkill. However, I have
a Tek 465, and I thought it would be kind of nifty to try to set it up to
look at my keyed waveform.
As for the matter of running a 50 Ohm source into a high Z scope input, Tek
has a slick solution. They use
Steve,
Regarding the Heath CantennaI have been scratching around with power out
readings recently and after a search of the archives for the word cantenna
yeilded some intersting results.
What I thought over all these years (since 1964) a 50 ohm load was actually
a
68 ohm load after many
Thanks to several commentors. Looks like I need to check the resistance of
my 30-year-old cantenna.
73,
Steve
AA4AK
At 04:11 PM 2/9/2005 -0500, you wrote:
Steve,
I have no problem with my 10x probes at 100 watts and a 50 ohm load. I use
a Tek 465 here too. But watch that Cantenna - check
Hi all.
Still having some toruble getting my KPA100 aligned properly.
After finding and fixing the T4 SNAFU I successfully complete the SWR
Bridge Null Adjustment. Looking good with C1 having a 1.0-1 range of
about 10 degrees. Hit the middle and double checked the voltage on U5 pin 1.
Moved
In a message dated 09/02/05 20:33:27 GMT Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
As for the matter of running a 50 Ohm source into a high Z scope input, Tek
has a slick solution. They use these 50-Ohm 2-Watt terminators that you
apply right at the BNC connector at the scope input
I
Roger:
The topic is extremely timely. I expect there are a lot of Cantennas still
floating around out in Hamdom. One is tempted to naively treat it like a
precision 50 Ohm RF load.
I measured the DC resistance of mine with a DMM and the reading was 46.1
Ohm. I dimly recall doing some noise
Hi Steve,
Check the spec on your scope probe. (try Google). If it can handle the
voltage at high frequencies, that is the easiest way to go. 100 watts into
50 ohms has a peak 100 volts (the peak-to-peak is 200V but the probe only
sees +/-100 volts max).
If you need to make an attenuator, it
Mark:
Yes, you're right; the 465 does have a 20 V/div max using 10:1 probes.
The lesson from you is essentially that when all else fails, read the
instructions. According to my probe manual, the probes are actually good to
500 V up to 10 MHz, then they derate to about 175 V at 30 MHz. They
Bob and Bob:
Thanks to both. The advice is very useful.
73,
Steve
AA4AK
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
On Jan 31, 2005, at 3:23 PM, David wrote:
okay I am a bit naive here but why would anyone need two k2s?
1) If you are into contesting, you'd need a second K2 to run SO2R
(Single Operator 2 Radios)
2) You need one for the shack, and one for the moble / RV / summer home
3) You need a spare
Hi Roger:
Actually, I'm quite happy with my 46.1 Ohm reading. After 28 years of
mysterious chemical reactions, my Cantenna impedance is still well within
10% of its nominal value. I wonder if a brand new MFJ dry dummy load would
be that close.
My Cantenna also contains the Heath-recommended
2 K2s come in handy as bookends for all of your amateur radio literature!
It just does not look right to hold your books up with one if them and a
KX1 is just not heavy enough to do the job. The 100 watt amps give the
rigs enough heft to handle a goodly number of tomes.
73,
Kevin.
26 matches
Mail list logo
