Hi group!
I have a little problem with SSB it seems. During the contest last weekend
someone told me I had frequency modulation on my signal. Not knowing what
this should mean I at least thought I would check the signal when bands are
quieter. I just did. And although the audio sounds ok there is
Tom and Don,
I think the problem has cured itself. Now only the ant1 external meter
reads power when ant1 is selected. Before both ant1 and ant2 were reading
power when ant1 was selected. There's no indicator on ant1, just on
ant2. I was mistaken about that. Tnx for the response.
At
Gerhard,
There could be a problem, or there may be no problem at all. What is the
audio source and level that you are driving into the mic jack? If it is
not a pure sine wave or the level is too high, it will have harmonics or (if
too high a level) can cause harmonics if the balanced modulator
Please remove me from mailing list
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Help:
Tnx for the feedback. Want to make it as seamless as possible. Don't want to
have to tune anything. I still have the option of switching in fixed value
caps to change the band segment to have a decent swr. If possible without a
ton of work, would like the ides of varying a calibrated pot in the
I still have the option of switching in fixed value
caps to change the band segment to have a decent swr.
Tony, You may have already considered and rejected this, but have you
considered the old zener diode/relay stacking method to switch in
caps/inductances - you control the number of relays
DEpedition Announcement!
For everyone who needs or wants the state of Delaware for a QRP or 2way QRP
contact (or any other reason), I will be operating from DE for the ARCI Spring
QSO Party (April 9-10), henceforth known as the DEpedition!
My call is NJ2OM, and I will be signing as NJ2OM/3.
I don't have an exte
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Help:
I just finished building the KAT2 internal auto antenna tuner for my K2.
I don't yet have access to an external wattmeter, or RF probe, so I'm
wondering: are the last couple alignment / calibration steps necessary
for operation of the KAT2, or will the KAT2 still reach a proper match
even if SWR
Oooohhh, I'm on the middle of the right-hand side of
p.59 on K2 #4442...it's getting closer...
Meanwhile, I was trying to use the fast-play
function on a borrowed K2. I programmed PF1 for FPon.
Then, it says to use the FPLY menu entry to select a
switch group. I'm not finding that entry...is
Here's a very minor concern, so minor I almost didn't post it. I'm
ready to put my K2 together for the RF bd Part 2 testing alignment,
and first must put tape over the prewound L33 toroid to prevent it from
contacting the chassis. The manual says electrical tape can be used,
but that seems kind
Andrew,
The KAT2 does use the SWR readings for determining the best match, and it
uses the power calibration to determine the power output. So, yes it should
be calibrated. The K2 will function, but the power output may be very
incorrect and the antenna match obtained will not be correct.
You
I was pleased to complete my T1 yesterday, after receiving a couple of missing
1/8 watt resistors from Elecraft. Everything worked right away. Happy Dance
time..
Then today..I receive another envelope from Elecraft with Errata, changing R1
and R2 to 1 watt, and T2 to 2 stacked cores. Oh Joy,
On Fri 01-Apr-05 at 1152 EST, Mike Markowski wrote:
[...] must put tape over the prewound L33 toroid to prevent it from
contacting the chassis. [...]
On second thought, I'll put the tape on the chassis itself! :-P
Mike AB3AP
Avondale, PA
___
On Apr 1, 2005, at 9:03 AM, W2AGN wrote:
I was pleased to complete my T1 yesterday, after receiving a couple of
missing
1/8 watt resistors from Elecraft. Everything worked right away. Happy
Dance
time..
Then today..I receive another envelope from Elecraft with Errata...
John,
Some kits
Mike,
I put a strip of electrical tape directly over the toroid to protect it
during the later building steps, plus I put tape on the bottom cover for
more permanent and more elegant protection. After the final assembly the
tape can be removed from the toroid if you remember it (it is not
John, W2AGN wrote:
I was pleased to complete my T1 yesterday, after receiving a couple of
missing
1/8 watt resistors from Elecraft. Everything worked right away. Happy Dance
time..
Then today..I receive another envelope from Elecraft with Errata, changing
R1
and R2 to 1 watt, and T2 to 2
Hi Gerhard,
Most reports of FM'ing I have been aware of have been due to a low
power supply voltage and/or the voltage varying with the load. I have
not heard a K2 with this problem, but it might be worth checking the
power supply.
gl
Trev G3ZYY
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Gerhard
On Friday 01 April 2005 12:39, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Those two resistors are very easy to get to. Remove T2 first and you'll
find one of them right next to the row of inductors near the BNC end on top
of the board, and the other one on the bottom of the board near the edge
between the BNC
Lloyd Lachow wrote:
Oooohhh, I'm on the middle of the right-hand side of
p.59 on K2 #4442...it's getting closer...
Meanwhile, I was trying to use the fast-play
function on a borrowed K2. I programmed PF1 for FPon.
Then, it says to use the FPLY menu entry to select a
switch group. I'm not
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Now your T1 will be even more robust than ever.
How hard would it be to beef up a T1 to handle 100W? A few extra cores, bigger
wire, higher voltage caps
..from the one who used to run his QRP K2 at 22 watts output.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
On Friday 01 April 2005 13:54, you wrote:
Hi John,
the T1 still works!
That's a relief
My main complaint about the T1 is...why didn't they come out with it
sooner?
It is the neatest, handiest little tuner I have ever seen!
Glad you like it, and tell your friends :) I was
From: Julian, G4ILO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have no idea why my reply to another posting looked like spam, but
there is no excuse for some brain-dead piece of software rejecting posts
to a members-only ...
Wow!
With all due respect, it sounds like it's a good time to take a walk around the
block.
Vic, K2VCO, asked:
How hard would it be to beef up a T1 to handle 100W? A few extra cores,
bigger
wire, higher voltage caps
-
That's a question for Wayne!
Ron AC7AC
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-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
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I must sound my 2 cents on this.
The mailing list is hosted on a sever that Elecraft does not control.
Therefore they do not have the final say so on spam filtering of said
server.
I have had several mailing list post binned by my pop host because
A few of my net reports have been kicked out of the system. There are
certain words which one should not use since they appear Spam like. The
one both Julian and I used which is on the list is buy. I asked Eric
about the list so I could avoid using the proscribed words but he told me
he did
Please remove me from mailing list Thx de Alex NS6Y
Please remove me too -
(Great list, just too busy hehe!! I'll be back when I build a K2)
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On Fri, 1 Apr 2005, Kevin Rock wrote:
P.S. Buy needs to be in association with some other word (which I have
forgotten).
KJR
It's the place where prices for Ham gear have risen through the roof.
There, they don't beg for funds and offer door prizes...it's very, very
commercial.
Folks;
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago. If you missed it, the important parts is:
Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and
to
change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list
preferences (digest,
Is anyone using their K2 with its built-in K60VX module to interface
with a MicroWave Modules MMT transverter? I have a perfectly good
432MHz transverter sitting on the shelf just begging to connect to my
K2...
-Jack Brindle, W6FB
G'day,
| You're probably hearing Russian military HF channel marker or
| propigation beacons.
|
| More information at:
|
|
http://www.smeter.net/propagation/beacons/7039.3-k-Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy.php
Interesting this. Information I have gives the location of K to be
Khabarovsk, Asiatic
Should be trivial. I have one of these as well, and just haven't
gotten 'round to hooking it up. I have the K60XV module installed, but
haven't brought the connectors out yet b/c I'm thinking of adding a
decoder board and relays to break out more than one on-board xv.
On Fri, 1 Apr
You can get quality 3M electrical tape at Home Depot/ Lowe's in various
colors to have something that does not look like electrical tape. White
is available, orange, and many other colors.
You can use a wide tape, such as the clear vinyl tapes sold at home centers.
While Scotch type tapes will
OK, I got to p.60. Plugged in the freq. probe, got it
to TP3, did the CAL thing, and got .00. Tried to
measure with my DMM's freq counter with that still
connected...and while doing this, the K2 read about
10.96 something, changing rapidly. Disconnected the
DMM from TP#, the K2 read 0.00
I'd find out what that stuff is Elecraft uses to mask holes in the
enclosure. That stuff could be used to prefab houses.
Eric
KE6US
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stuart Rohre
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 2:21 PM
To: Mike Markowski;
I would like to sell my perfectly working K1. Like new; no scratch.
Has KFL1-4 (40-30-20-15 m), KNB1 noise blanker, KAT1 antenna tuner and KBT1
internal battery adapter. I would prefer to sell it to a fellow VE ham.
Asking 600,00 Canadian $.
Reason for selling: I want to build the K2!
My bank
The instructions are in the footer which is appended to every message
sent out by the list.
Bob, N7XY
On Fri, Apr 01, 2005 at 01:07:31PM -0800, Jack Brindle wrote:
Folks;
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago. If you missed it, the important parts
That's heat resistant tape put one during the powder coating. It's really
tough stuff.
Bob
WB6KWT
- Original Message -
From: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 3:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 L33 (BFO) - aesthetics adhesives
I'd find
That's what I did. Polyimide (Kapton) tape looks very nice there.
It looks like surplussales sells the stuff.
73, de AB9GV
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Markowski
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 11:15 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
On page 42 of the KPA100 manual, right column about
1/3 of the way down are instructions to temporarily
remove the 160 meter option if it is installed. The
same needs to be said for the 60 meter option as well.
The transverter RCA jacks on the rear panel (heat
sink) are attached to the 60 meter
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago.
Yes, but did he post the instructions to unSUNscribe? I think that's where
the confusion lies.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
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The relays and inductors would have to be increased substantially in
size. That's why a KAT100 is a lot bigger than a T1 ;)
73,
Wayne
On Apr 1, 2005, at 12:19 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Vic, K2VCO, asked:
How hard would it be to beef up a T1 to handle 100W? A few extra
cores,
bigger
On Fri, 1 Apr 2005, Craig Rairdin wrote:
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago.
Yes, but did he post the instructions to unSUNscribe? I think that's where
the confusion lies.
Truly Amazing! Each message from the list has this information at the
LLoyd,
How old is your K2 kit? Take a look at the MPS5179s on the Control Board at
Q9 and Q10 - if they are blue (rather than black), they are the cause of
your problem. Elecraft will supply replacements for you if they are the
blue-faced ones. In the meantime, you can use 2Ns in their
I have had K2 #2571 from its birth about three years ago. (approx.) I have
always enjoyed the rig. It has a fantastic RX as I'm sure anyone who has a
K2 will attest. Anyway I decided I wanted a QRO rig and bought an
IC-706MKIIG about a month ago. Installed the FL-100 CW filter and was
Andrew,
Yes, I believe the manual is inconsistant on that point. Just make certain
there is one lockwasher between the standoff and the PC board (not 2) - and
it doesn't matter which end of the standoff has the lockwasher next to the
PC board - do it whichever way is better for you. I prefer to
Anybody have a HM2 (the Heil hand microphone) that they want to part with?
If so, please contact me.
SN 4853 has now passed all tests and I am just about ready to put it on the
air!
73,
Charlie, W0YG..
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I've noted that the request to unsunscribe is misspelled.
Sorry!
I don't like pointing it out but all these request are spelling
it as UNSUNSCRIBE it should be unsubscribe
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Guys - Let's kill this thread now. It was dealt with and explained more than a
day ago via private email between us and we're all happy :-)
Must be a night for Long Delayed Echoes...
73, Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft list manager
John {N5BSD} wrote:
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Yeah, I went the other way, from the 706MKIIG - K2 and I thought the K2
was broken until I checked it with a signal generator. :)
On Fri, 1 Apr 2005, Brent Sutphin WB4X wrote:
I have had K2 #2571 from its birth about three years ago. (approx.) I have
always enjoyed the rig. It has a
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