[Elecraft] Elecraft, Coax Balun Does the Trick
Hi folks I'm fairly new to ham radio and a few weeks posted a problem with RFI when using QRO (K1 with amp). Set up was multi dipole fed with about 70 feet of RG58 coax with no RF earth and no balun. Well a few days ago I lowered the antenna and used all the slack to wind about 20 turns of the RG58 onto a piece of 4inch diameter plastic drainpipe (grey) positioned right at the feed point. It looks a bit ugly but has done the trick. I now get no breakthrough on the hi fi and no freezing of the PC modem at 100W on 80, 40 and 20m. 15m is still a problem but since I don't use it much anyway I'll just stick to QRP on that band. The answer was so simple. Thanks for the help. BTW had my first truly QRP (ie both qrp) transatlantic qso last night into CT. The other guy was on a beam with me on my simple dipole at 25 feet. Great fun. 73's Martin Evans M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Adjustment/Output Question
So, does this variance of up to 1W while measuring output at a given power setting on the K2 represent a problem with the rig? I experienced this variance regardless of whether the rig was putting out 2W or 10W. http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Power_Control_Mod.html Mike, It's a feature inherent to the K2 design, not a problem with your rig. The mod at the above link describes how to reduce the power fluctuation to a minimum. I ended up with 910 ohms for R98, if my memory serves me correctly. 73 de Paul ZL3IN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 Keyer Problem
Regarding my dah-dit-dah-dit... K2 keyer problem: Thanks for the suggestion to replace my antenna with a dummy load. However, the problem turned out to be related to my PSK interface. I recently (10-15 days ago) replaced the computer I was using with my PSK interface (a Rigblaster Nomic). Since then, I've been running PSK and MFSK16 on 20 and 40 meters with no problem. I hadn't gone up to frequencies above 15 MHz since installing the new computer. It turns out that unplugging the PSK interface from the mic input connector solves the keyer problem. There must be some sort of ground loop associated with the new (less old) computer. The old computer was a Toshiba laptop (circa 1994) running Windows 95. The new one is a desktop (circa 1997) running Windows 98. I plan to dig into it a little bit more, but for now am just unplugging the PSK interface from the mic input whenever I'm not running PSK or MFSK16. (For whatever it's worth, my IMD reports on PSK are fine, so didn't suspect a problem there.) Russ Eberhart, N9IV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Setting K1 Offset
Hello, Fellow Elecrafters: I'm trying to set the offset on my K1 with some degree of precision. I want to be on top of the other station when he' in the peak of my K1 passband. However, I'm getting reports that I'm off, in spite of my best efforts. My K1 is complete. I flip the switch on the bottom of the RF board. I go into the menu, set the ptich to (in my case) 680 Hz, and zero beat the two tones, using the capacitor. Then, I flip the switch back to operate, close everything up, and I'm NOT zero beat with the other guy. How come this won't accomplish the job? What am I missing? Is it more accurate to use an external receiver to tune in a station, center that same station in my K1's passband, then adjust the capacitor to place the K1's transmitted signal on top of the other station (i.e., in the peak of the passband)? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. 73, Jim K5HO - Nunquam Secundum ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 receiver alignment?
Greetings, Have just finished phase 2 testing of my KX1--all seems well. One question I have with regards to adjusting the tunable capacitors CA, CB and CC. These have ranges of 8-50, and 5-20pF. Upon rotation, the peaks are apparent. Is the proper procedure to traverse the entire range of the capacitor to find the strongest peak, or is one or two rotations of the slug sufficient to attain peak receiver performance? Thanks. Ted. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
I'm needing to install an antenna in my new home. An attic loop is a necessity ... can't run an outside wire easily. I'm assuming that an 88-ft loop will be non-resonant in all bands 80-10, and fed with ladder line to the tuner should work. Other suggestions? Thanks. gene KC0RXY soon /9 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ on AT Sunday - Palm Logging
Hello all, Since it was just a gorgeous day here in PA on Sunday so I decided to hike up to Pulpit Rock on the Appalachian Trail. I took Trevor Boy (my dog) along for the training hike up the mountain and packed my K1 too. I decided to take the shorter, but steeper AT Route up to Pulpit Rock which is a 2-mile hike. As soon as Trevor spots my backpack he is excited and knows we will be hiking today. We drive the 45 minutes to the parking lot and then start our hike. As we hike, we see many hikers out for the day and Trevor greets many dogs on the way up. After only about half mile into the hike we run into water and mud at spots, but Trevor could care less! I'm surprised as we pass people up the very steep part of the AT. Once we reach the top, I look at my watch and then realize why we passed them up the trail - 55 minutes after two miles, but I'm paying for it today! I guess my 53-year-old-bones are revolting on me. After taking in the view, I set up my K1 and VBWFPA and take out my Palm 105 to use as a logger. After an hour of operation, I work many stations, but the sun is very hot and we are sitting in it. Trevor won't sit in the shade unless I'm in it? He always stays beside me and I mean almost on me! Getting back to the logger, I 'm slow at inputting the info into for now, but I'm getting better and I like using the Palm for logging. I now pack up and head back down the mountain, but I take my normal trail down the mountain past the reservoir. Guess what - very little water and mud! Seems the sun hits this side of the mountain and has dried it out. It was just a great day for a hike with my hiking partner Trevor and we had a ball. As for the Palm, I need more practice inputting information so to all I worked, thanks for your patience. Until our next hike - 72! Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
Gene, KC0RXY wrote: I'm needing to install an antenna in my new home. An attic loop is a necessity ... can't run an outside wire easily. I'm assuming that an 88-ft loop will be non-resonant in all bands 80-10, and fed with ladder line to the tuner should work. Other suggestions? For a number of years I was an apartment dweller who only once had permission to run an outdoor antenna. My antenna of choice in each situation was a doublet using whatever length I could manage. The feeder was open wire line made up of two small white wires (since apartment walls are invariably white) that went straight from the ATU on the operating table up the wall (held to it with a couple of small staples), through two small holes in the ceiling where it meets the wall and up to the center of the doublet. Once above the wall, a couple of lightweight insulators made from bits of scrap plastic (cut from film cans) were used as spacers. The spacing is not critical. It worked very well on all bands where I could get at least 1/4 wavelength of wire up into the attic. That is, with about 35 feet of wire (17 feet each side of the feeder) hung in the attic just under the roof so it was sort of inverted V, I could work on all bands 40 meters and up. The loss of efficiency of a short doublet doesn't really show up until the radiator gets to 1/4 wavelength or below. Of course, it would also load on 80 and even radiate. Shoot, an 8-foot mobile whip will radiate on 80. But I never seriously tried to operate on 80 (or 160) from an indoor antenna because of the electrical noise. Lamp dimmers, blow-dryer motors, every sort of appliance seems to be designed to emit maximum electrical noise on 80 and 160 meters! Only one time did I find my performance rather disappointing from such an attic antenna, considering its low height (usually about 20 feet since I was usually in a two-story building). It worked okay on 40 meters but performance on 20 meters and up was dismal compared to other QTH's. The roof was tile. Up close it appeared to be a colored concrete with a lot of air in it, so while the tiles were waterproof, they weren't as dense and heavy as normal tile or concrete. I found a broken piece in the garden, evidently left by someone who had done some repairs on the roof. On a hunch I took the piece of roofing tile into the house and put it in my microwave oven (with a glass of water to protect the magnetron). After a short run the water was warm and the piece of roofing tile was blistering hot! Minerals or something in the tile mix was definitely not transparent to radio waves - and its ability to soak up RF probably went up with frequency. So the sort of roof you have really does matter! The open wire feedline made of white wires attached to a white wall was virtually invisible - a nice feature since I often had my operating desk in the living room. Friends visiting would have to be shown the feeder before they'd see it on the wall from a few feet away. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for April 10th and 11th, 2005
Kevin Rock wrote: This evening's nets were interesting. Maybe for some, but not N. Cal. You were RST 219 at peaks. Couldn't manage a direct QNI, and I guess I had to leave before any of the QSP's started. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and K1 for sale - Spring Cleaning
Hi I have several extra radios and accessories I need to sell K2 S/N 3132 with following options KPA100 KSB2 2.5KHz bandwidth KNB2 K160RX K60XV KAF2 MD2 microphone new rear panel with xverter connectors Latest firmware and all latest mods installed, Yasau VFO knob $1450 K1 S/N 542 with following options Four band board 40/30/20/15 extra two band board 80/17 KAT1 KNB1 KBT1 two sets of NiMH batteries TecPac case tilt stand CT iambic paddle key $500 XV50 with oven $475 XV144 with oven $475 XV222 with oven $475 K2 S/N 1808 with the following options KAT2 KNB2 KSB2 2.5 KHz bandwidth K160RX K60XV KDSP2 KIO2 KBT2 KPA100 and KAT100 installed in EC2 MD2 or MH2 microphone Elecraft/Bencher Hex Key paddle new rear panel with xverter connectors new B model control board Latest firmware and all latest mods installed $1995 K2 QRP lid with speaker and KAT2 installed Not built by me. As is $125 TenTec 254 tuner/SWR meter/antenna switch $125 TenTec 6 meter transverter $75 MFJ-4125 25 amp power supply $75 Astron SS-25M 25 amp power supply $100 W2IHY 8 band audio equalizer and noise gate with Heil gold line dual element microphone $150 NGT 12.5 inch JMI reflecting telescope with SBIG ST7 astro camera Equatorial mount with tracking motors and star computer $5000 Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
My attic loop is probably a bit less than 88ft, and probably a bit too close to 66ft, but it's the biggest I can fit in my attic. With an Elecraft BL1 balun at the feed point, and a couple of metres of RG-213 down to the radio directly below it, the KAT2 can match it on all bands 160m to 10m, except 60m which I don't have a permit for and my K2 can't do anyway. My new T1 will match it on all bands 80m to 6m. Although I can match the loop on 80 and 160m it isn't very useful. I think it radiates in a vertical direction on those bands. Mostly I just pick up loads of computery noises. I've never made a contact on any of those bands, which I've always considered closed to QRP operators restricted to indoor antennas. (If anyone knows how to radiate a decent signal on 80m from something that will fit in a 6m x 6m sq attic, I'd like to know the secret.) By the way, I used an LDG 4:1 balun previously, and the results were much improved when the BL1 replaced it. Signals seemed stronger, the KAT2 managed a lower SWR on 40m and it easn't possible to match the loop at all on 80 and 160 with the LDG balun. 73, -- Julian, G4ILO (K2 #392) G4ILO's Shack: http://www.tech-pro.net/g4ilo Gene Worth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm needing to install an antenna in my new home. An attic loop is a necessity ... can't run an outside wire easily. I'm assuming that an 88-ft loop will be non-resonant in all bands 80-10, and fed with ladder line to the tuner should work. Other suggestions? Thanks. gene KC0RXY soon /9 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
Gene Can you tell us what linear dimensions your attic would have for potential dipoles? They also work at nonresonant lengths, and work quite well. At frequencies above their resonant length they can actually contribute some gain. Height above ground will be a bigger factor, in that for freqs below the resonant freq, you will find your major lobe pretty much straight up. But it will be a fat lob, and work out to a distance as well, just not as well as a dipole up over a quarterwavelength on the band in use. 73, Bob N6WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gene Worth Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 6:52 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop I'm needing to install an antenna in my new home. An attic loop is a necessity ... can't run an outside wire easily. I'm assuming that an 88-ft loop will be non-resonant in all bands 80-10, and fed with ladder line to the tuner should work. Other suggestions? Thanks. gene KC0RXY soon /9 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
Good points, Bob. And ... errr ... no, not exactly I know it is 20+ feet above the ground, so far so good. We are moving 500 miles from our present QTH, and I didn't have a ladder to get to the attic opening when we were shopping for a house. I do know that outside, I'll have a flagpole antenna ... maybe a short wire, but it will have to be modest. The attic length less than 44 feet, that I do know, so the non-resonant dipole isn't a great choice, unless I let the ends droop a bit. I do have a slinky dipole that may find its way into the house attic or the garage attic (12-15 feet AGL). I know that part of the house has cathedral ceilings on the upper floor, so I'll just have to have a look and see if I can snake some wire over that area and keep it clear of electrical stuff. I just wondered if there was a magic number for a non-resonant loop. My thinking is that I could get enough wire up there for a 40-meter loop. And, even if I had to double back in places, it would still work reasonably well. I'll probably feed it with ladderline b/c it will be non-resonant at a number of the frequencies I plan to work. Then, let the tuner take care of the rest. 73, gene KC0RXY Robert Tellefsen wrote: Gene Can you tell us what linear dimensions your attic would have for potential dipoles? They also work at nonresonant lengths, and work quite well. At frequencies above their resonant length they can actually contribute some gain. Height above ground will be a bigger factor, in that for freqs below the resonant freq, you will find your major lobe pretty much straight up. But it will be a fat lob, and work out to a distance as well, just not as well as a dipole up over a quarterwavelength on the band in use. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Resistors
I will echo Ron's comment about the colors not being easily to sort out on today's resistors. It is much better to use a DMM to be sure, and not trust your eyes. If you want to pick resistors, do so with a high intensity light and magnifier, and you will have a better chance of picking the correct one. 72, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
I'm needing to install an antenna in my new home. An attic loop is a necessity ... can't run an outside wire easily. I'm assuming that an 88-ft loop will be non-resonant in all bands 80-10, and fed with ladder line to the tuner should work. Other suggestions? Gene, A small, closed loop operated below resonance will have a very low feedpoint impedance. While it will radiate virtually all the RF it is fed, its low impedance might be tough to efficiently match to a 50-ohm unbalanced transceiver. So, instead of making just a single turn loop, how about making a two (or more) turn loop, instead? This would bring the natural resonant frequency of the antenna significantly below that of a single turn loop. If planned out correctly, you might be able to find the ideal dimensions of a multi-turn loop that will provide self-resonance on the low end of 80-meters. Anything above that in frequency should be easy to match as others have already mentioned. Just a thought... Good luck! 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://www.qsl.net/kd2bd/ __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast -- preferably motorized
Hi all, I'm hoping to put up a compact, lightweight rotatable dipole or 2-element yagi for 20-10 meters. This may not be a very efficient antenna, at least on the lower bands, but I have limited space available. The antenna may be home-brew and will weigh just a couple of pounds. I'd like to keep the antenna at roof level except when I'm actually using it, thereby minimizing scrutiny by Neighborhood Aesthetics Monitors. This calls for a 20 to 30 foot telescoping mast made of small-diameter tubing. If it's motorized, and goes up quietly, so much the better! I can guy it at the top if necessary, and it will be clamped to the side of the house. Anyone have suggestions on where to find such a mast? Thanks, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
Those having low band noise using indoor or attic antennas, might make a large copper pipe loop for low noise receiving. It should be symmetric for best effect. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K60XV Manual suggestion
I finished putting the 60m board together over the weekend - it works fine, no problems there! - and thought I'd post a small suggestion to improve the manual. On p. 10 it says, Re-install the heatsink panel. No sooner is that completed than you find on p. 11 the directions, If you'll be using phono jacks on the lower rear panel/heatsink: Remove any masking tape from the phono jack holes in the heatsink. If the inside surface is painted, scrape or sand away sufficient paint for the connectors to make good contact. The phono jack holes on mine had not been taped over, so after putting the heat sink on I had to immediately take it back off to sand off the paint on the inside near the holes. Not really a big deal, but it would've been easier to sand and only then reinstall the panel, prompting this minor suggestion. This is such a fun kit. Does anyone else find it ironic that building a new K2 keeps you so busy that you rarely find yourself on the air? I'm sure there's a deep yin/yang philosophy in there somewhere... 73, Mike AB3AP Avondale, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop
Not sure if this is any help, but L. B. Cebik, W4RNL has posted an article on shaping a loop into a star pattern on his website: http://www.cebik.com/wire/40star.html Jack Jack H. Shrawder, KT6JS K2 3256 Success is the only option. --Dave Borges, DC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K60XV Manual suggestion
Mike, I agree with your comments. Since I was installing a couple of mods at once I sort of thought ahead rather than blindly following the manual. I sanded off the painted area actually I think when I was doing the initial heat sink installation of the basic K2 in order to save a step later on. An even better suggestion which I think was mentioned here previously would be to have those areas masked off like the other areas were. Well, maybe that will happen on a future release anyway. Nonetheless, given that the only chassis work I had to do was a bit of sanding and I didn't have to do any raw fabrication I guess I can't complain. Too much time building and not enough time operating? Since I've gotten the K2 going it seems like my SSB module that is built up may never get into the K2! Too much fun operating (as much fun as the building was, the operating is awesome!). Actually, I hope to get the SSB module installed this week. It was just built early last week, so has only been sitting idle for a short time so far. Will be fun to try the K2 on PSK31 as well if not SSB. 73, Mark, NK8Q K2 #4786 From: Mike Markowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon Apr 11 14:13:13 CDT 2005 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K60XV Manual suggestion I finished putting the 60m board together over the weekend - it works fine, no problems there! - and thought I'd post a small suggestion to improve the manual. On p. 10 it says, Re-install the heatsink panel. No sooner is that completed than you find on p. 11 the directions, If you'll be using phono jacks on the lower rear panel/heatsink: Remove any masking tape from the phono jack holes in the heatsink. If the inside surface is painted, scrape or sand away sufficient paint for the connectors to make good contact. The phono jack holes on mine had not been taped over, so after putting the heat sink on I had to immediately take it back off to sand off the paint on the inside near the holes. Not really a big deal, but it would've been easier to sand and only then reinstall the panel, prompting this minor suggestion. This is such a fun kit. Does anyone else find it ironic that building a new K2 keeps you so busy that you rarely find yourself on the air? I'm sure there's a deep yin/yang philosophy in there somewhere... 73, Mike AB3AP Avondale, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #0489
Hi Folks, I want to introduce myself as a new K2 owner. Over the 18 years that I've been a Ham, I've owned a multitude of rigs. My first station consisted of a HeathKit Apache TX-1 (cw only) transmitter and a Collins 75A-1 receiver. (Talk about HUGE boat anchors!!). The last few years I've been somewhat in a slump as far as actively operating. So I decided that I needed to do something about that problem. Well, I became interested in the K2 several months ago. I've been reading this list, checking out everything about Elecraft and the K2 that I could find. I even talked to Wayne (great guy) at this past Orlando Hamfest. I even got to touch a K2. Talk about sweet!!. My only problem was time. I've just moved to the Daytona Beach, Fl. area, started a new job, and trying to fix up the house that we bought. So free time is really at a premium. I started saving up my money to make the plunge. I'd seen several ads on eBay for a K2's. So I placed a bid on K2 #0489 (from the estate of George, W5YR(SK)), thinking, Well if I get it, great, if not, I'll just build one over several months.. It has the KIO2, Rev. 2 firmware, KAT2, K160RX,KSB2, KBT2, KNB2, and KAF2 options. Well, as luck would have it, I won the auction with a very reasonable price. Then I get an email from Chuck WA6LTV congratulating me on winning and telling me that he had built the K2 and if I had any questions to just email him. And Chuck wasn't even involved in the auction!!! So now that I've bored everyone with this long winded story let me wind it down. I recived K2 #0489 today and immediately set it up side by side with my Icom 746. I tuned both around on 40m. The K2 is hearing signals that the I Can Only Monitor doesn't even know is there Both rigs are on the same antenna (an 80m loop). What a great piece of equipment the K2 is!! Thanks for everyones patience. 73 de Stirling, N5PIP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] LAITF Contest
Every year we take our radios out in the field, woods, or parks and operate. Now let's add the dimension of observing the wildlife around us and make it a part of the operating event, which we will call Look Around In The Field or LAITF. The exchange will include the name of some wildlife you have seen on that day. This contest was held last year, and is being run by W2AGN this year with the permission of the originator, Randy K7TQ. This was too much of a fun concept to allow to die. Break out those KX-1's! CONTEST PERIOD: May 7, 2005 1600-2100Z. CW ONLY. * Wildlife means some animal that you have seen since you left home for LAITF. It could be a deer, a moose, a squirrel, an egret, or a fly. * Ants and other bugs will work, too. * Heck, we'll even count dogs and cats here! Just for good measure everyone can send human just by seeing one. * Send a different wildlife name for each QSO or the same one every time, but make sure you have actually seen it before you send its name. It is your choice if you send hawk, red tailed hawk, or buteo jamaicensis. * You've got to look around and not just concentrate on the radio for this operating event! Rules o Exchange + State, Province, or Country (S/P/C) + Your name + Wildlife name o QSO Points + Each QSO = 1 pt o Multipliers + Sum of different wildlife YOU sent + Sum of different wildlife you copied from other operators + S/P/C total for all bands o Final Score + QSO points X Wildlife mults X S/P/C Mult o Work station once per band. o Categories + Home-Single Op + Home-Multi Op + Field-Single Op + Field-Multi Op o Certificates for the top scorer in each category will be provided in PDF format. o Suggested Frequencies (kHz) (Spread out, guys! 1810 3560704014060 21060 28060 Send logs by email to w2agn at w2agn.net, or by snail mail to: John Sielke W2AGN 1353 Samuel Drive Vineland, NJ 08360-4471 Send logs no later than May 31, 2005. Results will be posted at http://w2agn.net/laitf.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 working A-OK
Certainly some fiddly construction in this one, nevertheless T1 tuner is up and running last night with no problems at all, it tuned my G5RV on 80m in a flash. Please make available a transparent case so I can show off to the local hams! Chris Meagher VK2LCD PO Box 61 Woodburn NSW 2472 Australia Nearest town: Evans Head HF Rig: Elecraft K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast -- preferably motorized
Hi Wayne: Perhaps we can help each other! :) See www.spiderbeam.com for DF4SA's new 40' heavy duty telescoping fiberglass pole that may fit the bill. Click on the banner header (in red) when you open the page. [See below for some of the blurb copied from the site]. I recently bought Con's (DF4SA) spiderbeam kit (5 band version) and can testify to the very high quality of components, including the fiberglass tubes used in the 10m (33ft) boom and spreaders. The 40'ft telescoping mast is made of similar construction and material. This pole is not 'moterized', however, and may be too lightweight for your intended use. So Wayne, if you do find an aluminum 30'-50' telescoping mast (moterized or not) I would be VERY interested to learn about it, for use with the above mentioned Spiderbeam in 'portable' (or rather 'transportable') situations like field day and longish trips to exotic places. While there are several European sources for aluminum push-up masts in the 33' to 50' range at reasonable (Euro) prices, I have so far found nothing equivalent here in the States. All I can find are VERY nice military kits (with military prices out of my league), or surplus masts that are not particularly lightweight or telescoping. Here's Con's blurb: In our continuing efforts to make our portable equipment even more rugged and durable we have now developed a new HEAVY DUTY version of our well-known 12m pole [40ft]. The first prototypes were tested last November/ December during 120km/h winds at the North Sea coast and performed just great! These are very strong poles, with a much greater wall thickness (up to 2mm!) than the usual fishing rod types. They are wound with a special reinforcing winding technique (several layers of fiberglass are wound in alternating direction (criss/cross winding), thus greatly increasing lateral and linear strength. Stronger joints are achieved by a much larger overlap between the individual tube segments than usual. These heavy duty poles are very well suited for building 40/80/160m wire GP or inverted L antennas. They can also easily support temporary lightweight 1 Element Quad or Delta loops for 20-10m, and dipoles for all bands, especially when used with open wire feedline. (Most baluns would be somewhat heavy). Even the top segment is 8mm in diameter (and 1.4mm wall thickness), so the poles can be used to their full 12m length - unlike other poles where the top segment is very thin as a whip. During our tests we were able to put 80m inv vee dipoles (made from 1mm diameter enameled copper wire (AWG 18) and open wire feedline) RIGHT AT THE TOP of the 12m pole... No way you can do this with a regular fishing rod! At 9-10m height, the poles can easily support small VHF/UHF yagis. The best (and cheapest) wire to use for such applications (verticals, loops, dipoles etc.) is AWG 18 (= 1mm diameter) enameled copper wire or similar. Thin fishing monofilament (1mm diameter) or similar rope is very suitable for guy lines. Of course, a single person can still put up these poles very easy within minutes. Pole dimensions: full extracted length (height): 12m (40ft) transportation length: 1.18m (3ft 10'') weight: 3.3kg (7lbs) bottom diameter: 55mm (2 1/6'') top diameter: 8mm (1/3'') wall thickness: 1.4 - 2mm (1/18 - 1/12) number of segments: 12 segment length: 3ft 10 (1.18m) Pole material: Black Fiberglass, UV protected Price: 79 EUR Hope this is of some help, 73 John, N6JW K2 #3290 --- Hi all, I'm hoping to put up a compact, lightweight rotatable dipole or 2-element yagi for 20-10 meters. . . This calls for a 20 to 30 foot telescoping mast made of small-diameter tubing. . . Anyone have suggestions on where to find such a mast? Thanks, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2Z Program
Hi all, I'm wanting to download and use the K2Z application by Tony Wells but the URL listed below on the Elecraft website is no longer valid. Does anyone know if the program is still available and if so where can I download it? Thanks, Lou - W6UR http://www.t-wells.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/k2z.exe -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast
Hi, Regarding an inexpensive telescoping tower... I've been using galvanized conduit at all corners of my house to support various antennas for over 13 years without any sign of failure. I use a 10'x1.5 section going into the ground 1', and then I put a 10'x1.25 section into that with a 1' overlap and lastly, a 10'x1 section into that with a 1' overlap. I use stainless steel hose clamps tightened down so that the smaller one can't fall into the larger OD pipe. I connect the two sections with copper wire so that the pipes can't rotate with respect to each other. I also put a plastic inverted cone over each coupling so that water can't get into the pipes and do the same for the top or use a plug. The 10'x1.5' section is attached to the eaves at about 9' and I don't use guy wires. On one of them, I've had a 14' 2 meter vertical at the top. On another, I've had a yagi for TV mounted close to the top which is about 27'. To support my wire antennas, I add another 5' of aluminum tubing that I have just to make it over 30'. Mike WA1SEO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast -- preferably motorized
On Apr 11, 2005, at 12:22 PM, wayne burdick wrote: I'd like to keep the antenna at roof level except when I'm actually using it, thereby minimizing scrutiny by Neighborhood Aesthetics Monitors. This calls for a 20 to 30 foot telescoping mast made of small-diameter tubing. If it's motorized, and goes up quietly, so much the better! I can guy it at the top if necessary, and it will be clamped to the side of the house. Wayne, Looks like another un-met need for Elecraft to fill ;-) Best Regards My Friend, John AA2BN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Loaded K2
I'm offering my loaded K2 for sale.
SN 03597, non-smoking shack, fully operational with the
latest firmware.
Options installed are;
K160RX, KNB2, KAF2, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, XV60 with the new rear
heatsink panel.
Includes the Heil_MH2 hand mic.
It has the rubber ring from a Yaesu FT-100 tuning knob
installed on the basic Elecraft Tuning knob -- makes a big
difference -- but it's easy to remove.
Asking $1025 or make offer. Shipped, double boxed, CONUS
only, via FEDEX or UPS.
If interested, please reply off list and put elecraft in
the subject line so my spam detector wont 'junk' it !!
{dmg (at) bossig (dot) com}
Dave, KK7SS
___
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[Elecraft] New DX Chaser Award winners
Fellow Elecrafters, It is my distinct pleasure and my happy duty to announce the names of three Amateur Radio operators who have successfully applied for and earned the coveted Elecraft DX Chaser Award. Certificate #004 goes to Earl Cunningham, K6SE who has worked over 300 countries using K2 # 2622. Certificate #005 goes to Gerry Ewell, N4GE who has worked 143 different countries using K2 # 1054. Gerry worked all at QRP power levels. Certificate #006 goes to Roger Dallimore, MWØIDX who has worked 117 countries using K2 # 2724. Roger never exceeded 15 Watts and used a simple wire antenna for al his QSOs. Congratulations to all three of these fine business operators !!! For all the info on ALL the Elecraft Awards - please visit: http://www.qsl.net/w2lj/index%20page%2010.html To see all our Award winners in the Elecraft Award Winner's Hall of Fame - please visit: http://www.qsl.net/w2lj/index%20page%2011.html 73 de Larry W2LJ Your most humble Elecraft Awards Admin. Guy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast --preferably motorized
Take a StepperIR(?) yagi and use one of the motorized elements for your vertical 'tower' eh!?!...hihi...sri Wayne, couldn't resist...still love my K2#2032 - 72 Bruce. 72/73 - Bruce ve5rc/ve5qrp - QRP-C#1, QRP-L#886, A1 Operator ** Enter QRP-Canada's RUN with RAC contest - details at http://www.qrp-canada.com ** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 10:23 AM To: Elecraft Reflector; QRP-L Subject: [Elecraft] OT: looking for a very lightweight telescoping mast --preferably motorized Hi all, I'm hoping to put up a compact, lightweight rotatable dipole or 2-element yagi for 20-10 meters. This may not be a very efficient antenna, at least on the lower bands, but I have limited space available. The antenna may be home-brew and will weigh just a couple of pounds. I'd like to keep the antenna at roof level except when I'm actually using it, thereby minimizing scrutiny by Neighborhood Aesthetics Monitors. This calls for a 20 to 30 foot telescoping mast made of small-diameter tubing. If it's motorized, and goes up quietly, so much the better! I can guy it at the top if necessary, and it will be clamped to the side of the house. Anyone have suggestions on where to find such a mast? Thanks, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432 Alignment And Test Part II Question...
Guy's.. I've just completed the above part on my K2 All tests seemed to go according to plan. Keepin' my fingers crossed...! SO..! Should Y'all for me ...!! My Question... On completing the test(s) up to an around Page 50 something in the manual... I proceeded to put my baby back together again in preperation for the next part in the manual... Only to find...that when I tried to mate the Front Panel board, with the Control Board...things, don't want to go back together as planned...! The problem I think ...is that now the RF Board is more populated with componants, and there is a tuning can in componant placement L34 on the RF BoardWHEN ..! I try to mate the Control Board onto the given connectors,the screws that hold the 2 transistors in position(s) U5 and U4 respectivley..protrude out too far from their nuts..thus inhating the placement of the Control Board onto the connectors on the RF Board... I (am) ...sorta sure that I got this part correct ..way back in the manual... and used the correct screws to hold the transistors on the Control Board as was statedbut for some reason I can't help but think that the screws used are either 1... Too Long (i.e not the correct ones to use)2... Orientated with their threads instead of their heads on the Control Board Can someone please point me in the correct direction of where I might have gone wrong... I've asked advice on this previously and understand what I was told... that was just to turn the screws around so that the heads lay on the transistors, from the componant side and protruded out the solder side of the Control Board... if this is the case, will I need to do any reverse stuff with the washers for each transistor...?? Thanks guys for the bandwidth. Andy [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross (RSD Communications circa 2004) A.R.S. GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi... K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done with less.. In The Northern Hemisphere... GQRP No.9576 QRP-L No.2165 ARCI No.10561 Central Florida DX Association (CFDXA) Alaska QRP Club No.190 Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061 ICQ No.31899603 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432 Alignment And Test Part II Question...
Andy GM0NWI wrote: I've asked advice on this previously and understand what I was told... that was just to turn the screws around so that the heads lay on the transistors, from the componant side and protruded out the solder side of the Control Board... if this is the case, will I need to do any reverse stuff with the washers for each transistor...?? This is exactly how the manual says to do it: with the screw head on the flat part of the component (voltage regulator) and the nut and washer on the other (solder) side of the board. It's assembled in this order: screw, regulator, board, washer, nut. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
