Hi Graham
Yes. With or without that cable seems to make no difference.
Regards
John G4ZTR
-Original Message-
From: Graham Kimbell G3TCT [mailto:g3...@lineone.net]
Sent: 24 March 2011 20:49
To: John Lemay
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Noise from P3
On
On Thu, 2011-03-24 at 12:00 -0400, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
wrote:
I agree. The kitbuilding of the K2 was the main reason I went with it
and not the K3.
73,
David AJ4TF
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:47:52 -0500
From: Allen Wisbey, W1SBY al...@thewisbeys.com
Subject: Re:
Unless I'm missing something, the state of the K3 VOX as on or off is
retained when changing bands. My preference would be to be able to set it
independent of band with a menu or config setting.
I always use it and sometimes QSK for CW, always use it for SSB, and it's
irrelevant on FSK. (I
I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.
This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
experience.
73, de Nate
--
The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible
Help Please!
I have researched the Reflector emails and cannot find any postings with a
similar problem to the one I have! I do not have a proper readout of either
the MENU or CONFIG options on my K3.
All the MENU entry names show a row of question marks, although the line above
appears to
Nate Bargmann wrote:
I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.
This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
experience.
If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on
Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3
utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware,
did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before
updating the firmware. 73, Guy.
On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 9:30 AM, Chris Page
The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the
solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject
to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended.
I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly
flexed, so in
I've never soldered an APP and have very few problems with them that
weren't a function of operator error on my part.
I use a set of Klein crimpers. It is important, at least with this
particular tool, to carefully re-round the shank and re-align the
tongue after crimping.
This whole issue
Sorry Guy, I should have said, but yes, I am using the latest version (1.4.1.8)
of the K3 Utility program.
73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE)
On 25 Mar 2011 at 9:44, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility.
Particularly since you went so
It's Powerpole not Powerpoll
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This
Chris,
I would try loading ALL the firmware again - using a real serial port if
that is possible. You could have a bad USB to serial adapter that
corrupted the load.
If all else fails, there is always EEINIT - hopefully you have a saved
configuration!
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/25/2011 10:22 AM,
Thanks Don but I have tried both loading all the software again,and the EEINIT
option!
I haven't tried reloading the software from a computer with a proper serial
port as I don't have one!
73 de Chris
On 25 Mar 2011 at 10:30, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Chris,
I would try loading ALL the
This often indicates that some, but not all of the required firmware files were
installed. The menu strings are in the FPF firmware file. There are
dependencies between MCU, FPF, and DSP firmware files released at the same
time. Install all new firmware, not one at a time
Long time, Chris!
73
Chris - Unless you are using a laptop, etc, it might be worth adding a
COM port to your computer. Most desktop motherboard have a COM header to
which can be connected a rear COM plate.
OTOH, ensure you have the up-to-date drivers for your USBCOM adapter.
There is information about this on the
Nate,
I think it is ok to solder, but use some thick walled heat shrinking out a
distance from the connector to provide some strain relief. This would also
hold the poles together.
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork
lift on the planet uses that connector design?
How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48
volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation?
Crimp the connector as specified!
20 A with 1.2 volt drop? 24 watts, the connector would melt!
Kurt
From: vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com
To: r...@cobi.biz; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:08:28 +1000
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
I
Although I soldered the Powerpole connectors for my K3 because I didn't have
the appropriate crimping tool, I submit that in general, crimped connections
are far more reliable than soldered ones.
Try and find a soldered connector pin in an automobile, aircraft or missile.
Likewise, swaged (a
I solder crimp connections especially RF. My only question is what harm can it
do? In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a
typical ham do in a year? At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than
climb
George, W6GF
--- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr
I'm not picking on Paul, this is just a handy place to reply. I'm going to say
this one more time (the first time was two years ago).
I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy when just
changing the K3 Width and Shift controls moves the frequency more than that and
this is
Hi all.
I also agree with David. Building the K2 kit is what I was looking for the
most. It is FUN to build. It has all the features I need and am going to
use. While I am building the kit I do learn some stuff but if I make a
mistake and have to fix and test parts, that is when I learn a lot
I am not an electronics expert, but I work closely with someone who spent 40
years installing custom electronic equipment in commercial and military
aircraft.
Approaching PowerPoles from the perspective of a novice, it has been my
experience that PowerPoles take some learning to properly
The only problem I have had with the Anderson Powerpoles is from my installing
the connectors.
I will lose the 12 volts to a piece of gear and it always boils down to the
same thing. The leaf
didn't snap over the mating piece inside the connector. Looking in at the end
of the connector I can
If you use the 45A contacts and AWG 10 wire, you either have to use the proper
crimp tool or solder very carefully. The barrel of these contacts just barely
fits in the shell, and won't if it's either distorted or has solder on the
outside. If you don't have the crimp tool, just solder
Wes Stewart wrote:
I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy
Because so many customers asked for it. I'll leave it to them to list
their reasons, but in my case, I like being dead-on over a wide range
of temperatures without having to occasionally recheck my manual
We've had excellent results with APP connectors in our products,
soldered or crimped, and we will not be switching to anything
different or changing our instructions.
I wish I could say the same for *other* power connectors we've tried
in the past.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
The good thing about this problem... 0 amps at 0 voltage drop :-).
Bill
K9YEQ
K9YEQ
K2 and KX1 field tester, K3, P3, K1 and modules
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Harmon
Sent: Friday, March 25,
On 3/25/2011 10:46 AM, Scott Ellington wrote:
If you use the 45A contacts and AWG 10 wire, you either have to use the
proper crimp tool or solder very carefully.
Yes, the 45A contacts for the small series of Power Poles that we use
are a real challenge to get right. I've built a lot of patch
In the aerospace, marine and land-based commercial electronics industry
firms I worked with, we shifted from soldering to crimping for two reasons:
1) Crimping is faster than soldering and, if done correctly, yields a
reliable electrical connection.
2) Soldering requires more training to use
* On 2011 25 Mar 08:50 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the
solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject
to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended.
I don't believe the typical
They've work well for me ... never a problem. I have
a RIGrunner 4008H fused distribution box from West
Mountain Radio that makes my 12 VDC distribution
neat n tidy.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Jim -
I've asked before for it to be mode dependent. It's on the
listsomewhere :-D
I use it for everything except phone, I prefer a foot switch there.
73, Mike NF4L
On 3/25/2011 7:27 AM, Jim McDonald wrote:
Unless I'm missing something, the state of the K3 VOX as on or off is
I like the APP for the main power connector on the K3, but having the
12VDC OUT and the PTT IN connector the same seems a Murphy-proofing
fail. The fuse is very likely to fail before the device that's supposed
to drive PTT IN, but
Where is that fuse, anyway?
73, doug
On 25-Mar-11
I have for sale one used (in good condition) W2ONV (now just ONV since W2ONV's
passing in 2007) climbing belt with seat strap and attached lanyard. Picture
and new price ($159.95) can be seen at the included URL It is size Large.
Very comfortable to use compared to some other belts
Thanks Gary and Wayne.
I'm pleased to report that deleting and then downloading the files again from
Elecraft to my computer and then re-loading them into the K3, cleared the
problem with the MENU and CONFIG redout.
I then did a VCO MD calibration and this cleared the ERR PL1 problem.
All
Glad you're going to give it a rest.
N5GE
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:45:31 -0700 (PDT), Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:
I'm not picking on Paul, this is just a handy place to reply. I'm going to say
this one more time (the first time was two years ago).
I really don't understand all of the
Must be some kind of record - the belt was sold within 5 minutes of posting the
For Sale!
W0EB
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Post:
Hi Gang,
I built this transverter last year for the VHF/UHF contests and it was
aligned by Elecraft service. (The power module was bad out of the box, hence
the repair and alignment.) It puts out full power and works great with my
FT-817. I've decided to give up performance for simplicity in my
You should try it.
--- On Fri, 3/25/11, n...@n5ge.com n...@n5ge.com wrote:
From: n...@n5ge.com n...@n5ge.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 1:02 PM
Glad you're going to give it a rest.
N5GE
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011
I have been using APPs for ten years when I built my first K2. I have used APP
connectors on two K2s and two K3s. All cables to APP connectors have been
soldered in. I have never had a problem. If the cables are soldered correctly
to each insert; and the inserts are snapped in to the red
I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used with
PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN.
PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. Also
happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and will
not disengage automatically but
Shane
perhaps you are reading that folk are as passionate about their K2's as those
that have K3's - likely for differing reasons. If you think about the rigs we
had 15-20 years ago - both rock! I have owned a K2 for 10 years, and enjoyed
operating a K3 twice at field day. both are rather
Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use
a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use
paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the
majority uses.
WT5Y
My K2 is up and running from getting it
I have a previously working W2 that was relocated within my house to my
new shack location.
The W2 utility cannot locate the unit. I've tried different USB/Serial adapters
but cannot see the unit from the PC (Windoze Vista - current updates)
The unit functions perfectly!! the LED's show my
Right handed, BY-1 dits on left.. Go to YouTube and search on iambic keyer.
73, Mike NF4L
On 3/25/2011 6:56 PM, John Cooper wrote:
Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to
use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that
use
Push paddle right for dits and left for dahs - based on decades of using a
conventional right-handed semi-automatic key (bug).
I was a bit surprised when, a few years ago, I started hearing about people
using the reverse but it makes sense - anything so easily changed will be
changed by someone.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:56:09 -0500
John Cooper w...@gt.rr.com wrote:
Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows
how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to
poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right
paddle? Curious as to
I had that happen once I think it was the USB to Serial connector that
took a dump. Do you have another one to try? Before that Try
restarting your computer. If that doesn't work, go to Start, Control Panel,
System, Hardware and look to see if the device shows up with informational
mark
Steve,
I just tried this and I get something a little different. The mute button
did not come on when I controlled RIT and XIT directly from the radio. But
with N1MM open and the command for CLEARRIT executes then the MUTE button on
PowerSDR does come on.
73
Greg
On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 3:26
On 3/25/2011 3:56 PM, John Cooper wrote:
Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows
how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to
poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right
paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses.
Wow
Left handed folks generally prefer dit on the right. Anyone have statistics on
that? Right handers use dits on the left.
However some CW ops have said in the past that they send with their left hand
and log with their right. I suppose left handed folks would do the oposite.
Tom
N5GE
On Fri,
*To everybody, I AM WRONG, so sayeth everyone who tries to use my
paddle...Grin*
*
*
*You guessed it folks...My Dits are on the LEFT and DAH's on the right.*
*
*
*But then I AM different, I also live in 'The Land Downunder' where the
water in the toilet bowl swirls opposite to the US...is that
Thumb on right paddle makes dits.
Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles
around backwards and reach over the top. (:-))
73!
Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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*Ken..the FW will reverse it too.*
*
*
*Gary
*
On 26 March 2011 09:49, Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com wrote:
Thumb on right paddle makes dits.
Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles
around backwards and reach over the top. (:-))
73!
Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
You have gotten some good info already, but let me show you an example of
some of my favorite types of answers here:
Forget about the paddles, you need to use a straight key.
73,
Tony W7GO
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*Or slack key :-)*
*Gary
*
On 26 March 2011 09:57, Tony Morgan 1desertdwel...@gmail.com wrote:
You have gotten some good info already, but let me show you an example of
some of my favorite types of answers here:
Forget about the paddles, you need to use a straight key.
73,
Tony W7GO
Both of my parents were naturally left-handed. My dad golfed and bowled as a
lefty but wrote with his right. I wish I had his penmanship.
My mom also wrote right-handed. She learned that after the good nuns in the
convent where my grandmother left her would hit her fingers with the edge of
A couple of ideas: verify that the plug is in the right jack on the back of the
W2. And does the USB to serial adapter work with another device? Like a K3?
Dick, K6KR
On Mar 25, 2011, at 16:02, roger shirko roger_shi...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a previously working W2 that was relocated
Hello,
I'm getting ready to FINALLY start my K2 build, so have been reviewing the
manual as well as some searches on the reflector. I came across discussions
regarding the Rework Eliminator headers. This seemed like a great idea,
since I have several options in the ready after I complete the
Hi there,
I can send using paddles right or left handed. I use the thumb for dits no
matter
which hand I am using. This requires reversing the paddles for left handed
keying. I came up with a simple solution. I use a bencher with the MFJ 422B
box mounted on it.
For left hand operation I
I see talk of this external reference device.
How does one get this?
Nothing results in a search on the Elecraft website.
Been waiting for this since K3 came out.
Phil K3(352)TUF
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As a rule of thumb, dits with the thumb...
73,
Bob
K2TK
On 3/25/2011 7:44 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote:
Left handed folks generally prefer dit on the right. Anyone have statistics
on
that? Right handers use dits on the left.
However some CW ops have said in the past that they send with their
Russ,
Yes, the rework eliminators are no longer available, but if you have the
options in hand, you can put in the headers and standoffs for those
options. The K2 manual tells you when to do that.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/25/2011 8:09 PM, rboutell wrote:
Hello,
I'm getting ready to FINALLY
Phil,
You wait until it is released. It is being tested by a few right now.
No, I don't know when that will be.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/25/2011 8:30 PM, Phil Theis wrote:
I see talk of this external reference device.
How does one get this?
Nothing results in a search on the Elecraft
As a teenager, I knew an old gentlemen who had been a Western Union
telegrapher. He had a two-story house (unusual in Tucson) and the whole second
floor was a replica of a WU station. He wasn't a ham but had some TRF
receivers that he'd built and one that I believe was US Navy surplus.
He
Well I didn't mention that I'm also running Logger32 along with PWRSDR-IF from
LP-Bridge I tried closing Logger32 but still, when I just tap the key, MUTE
kicks on and won't go off until I click it with the mouse. Strange.
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message -
From: Greg
To: Steve
I'm looking at ordering a K2/100 and hoping I'm not making a mistake
by trying to build something I have no experience in. I'm really
wanting to get into CW more and this is my main purpose for purchasing
this rig, so hope this is the right choice, though I will use voice
too. It seemed simpler
I would recommend you call Elecraft sales. You cannot go wrong with
Elecraft. A great product with incredible support!
On Friday, March 25, 2011, Shane
software.research.developm...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm looking at ordering a K2/100 and hoping I'm not making a mistake
by trying to build
Shane,
If you believe you will enjoy the assembly process and soldering, then
go for the K2. As you noticed, there is not much of a price difference
between the fully loaded K2/100 and a K3/100 with minimal options - of
course, one can get upwards of 5K$ invested in a K3 if one wants to
Well Mr. Stewart, I happen to be the trustee for the ham station aboard the USS
Stewart, DE-238 which is a museum ship on Pelican Island, Texas (City of
Galveston). If you ever get to this part of Texas we could arrange for a bit
of
operating time from the ship. It was named for Rear Admiral
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