-- Elecraft K2/10 with KAT2 error :: serialno. 4037 --
Hello,
Sometimes my KAT2 built-in antenna tuning unit gives erroneous behaviour. It
goes like this:
Normally nothing is wrong. Nor in ATU AUTO mode nor in ATU CALS mode. But
sometimes after using the KAT2 auto-tuner (setting ATU AUTO)
Chris,
If I understand you correctly, you have a very low voltage on U4 pin 3
during receive, and the 4.6 volts on pin 1 did not decrease after you
transmitted. (pin 1 and pin 2 should be at the same voltage).
I believe what is happening is that the charge on U4 pin 1 had no where
to bleed
I have finished building the KAT2 got the null to 001 and then checked the
voltage at pin 1 at U4 which read at 0 on receive then went into tune at 5W
and P1, U4 read about 4.6v. When I went back to receive the voltage at P1
and 7, U4 was 4.7v. Checked voltages on receive and P8, U4 read 6.06v and
Brian,
Yes, you can separate the two halves and use only the Control Board.
Before you separate them, make certain ANT1 is selected - then power off
and separate them. Put a long jumper between J4 pin 2 and J6 pin 15
(that is next to the last pins on both ends).
If you still cannot
Don:
Built a KAT2 and all went well but no response at the first test. Question:
can I separate the two halves and remove the L-C board and still power the KAT2
for trouble shooting? Should the processor board still respond? Any tips?
Thanks
Brian Denley
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
, 2013 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] KAT2 Question
Brian,
Are you certain you had the J7 connector backwards? The coax shield should be
toward the right side panel.
The results you are now getting indicate that you have something wrong with
what you changed.
That power reading
K2 - KAT2-
Every reading and function seems to be ok UNTIL page 17 – square five in
Bridge Null Adjustment (C55):
After placing the K2 in CALn and exiting that setting by pressing MENU twice,
I’m ready to put the K2 in TUNE mode:
With the R1 and R2 set fully clockwise, and C55 positioned
Hans,
If you are getting HiCur messages, you may not have a proper connection
through the KAT2 to the dummy load.
Be certain the crimp pins of J7 are inserted correctly. Looking at the
rectangular holes in J7, you should see the crimp pins flat against the
inside of the housing (no space),
Hey all,
I've been working on the KAT2 module for my K2. Mostly making progress but
stumped in the bridge null adjustment.
I was having problems with C55, and getting silly readings on U4 Pin1, so after
staring at my board for a while, I went to the web for a while and read about
other
Brian,
Are you certain you had the J7 connector backwards? The coax shield
should be toward the right side panel.
The results you are now getting indicate that you have something wrong
with what you changed.
That power reading is likely coming from the K2 RF board RF output
detector rather
I am assembling the KAT2 auto tuner. Everything is going OK but I am having
trouble with the following statement:
'On the bottom of the KAT2 control board, locate a pad labeled B. Just to the
left of this pad you'll
see the round pad for pin 1 of U4 (LM358). (You'll know you have the
Measure at U4 pin 1.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/16/2012 1:31 PM, b.den...@comcast.net wrote:
I am assembling the KAT2 auto tuner. Everything is going OK but I am having
trouble with the following statement:
'On the bottom of the KAT2 control board, locate a pad labeled B. Just to
the left of
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
Measure at U4 pin 1.
Which is the small round soldered pad southwest of the B (BTW not upside
down). I just went through this myself. Sometimes writer's directions
remind me of my XYL's...she forgets that right and left depend on which way
you're driving on the road!
Which is exactly why one should always use a pre-determined common frame of
reference. In the fire service, it wasn't left flank of the fire, it was
the [N/S/W/E] flank.
On radios, it should start with something akin to With the front panel
towards you. Most of the time Elecraft has already
Thanks Don and to all who responded.
Brian KB1VBF
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: b denley b.den...@comcast.net
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 1:49:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: KAT2 Assembly
Measure
On 8/21/2011 5:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I do not know what the algorithm is (that is a question for Wayne), but
what I do know is that in the KAT2, there are 2 levels - the normal
algorithm which is fast to find a match, and the ALT which is slower,
but will often find a match in difficult
I recently bought a K2 (s/n 3873) with KAT2 module (f/w 1.06) on Ebay. The
K2 is working well, but I'm not sure the KAT2 is. Here is what I get tuning
into a 25 ft vertical wire with 16 ft counterpoise on the ground:
f SWR L C Net 3.540 1.2 18.2 0.66 N1 7.050 1.6 3.9 0.24 N1 10.106 1.1
1.6
Chip,
The KAT2 and the KX1 use a similar tuning algorithm, it searches for the
lowest SWR - but the KX1 capacitor and inductor selections are much more
limited than those of the KAT2. I am surprised that the KX1 gives you a
match, but the KAT2 cannot handle the same antenna.
Try setting the
I would suspect Chip has some sort of problem Don, my KAT2 has never
failed to get a match to anything conductive :-). Actually, it won't
load an end-fed half-wave on 40, but does with a 1.3:1 SWR on 20. Go
figure.
Just out of curiosity, is the KAT2 some sort of steepest descent
algorithm?
Fred,
I do not know what the algorithm is (that is a question for Wayne), but
what I do know is that in the KAT2, there are 2 levels - the normal
algorithm which is fast to find a match, and the ALT which is slower,
but will often find a match in difficult times.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/21/2011
On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 6:24 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
...is the KAT2 some sort of steepest descent
algorithm? ... ...
=
Fred, I don't know that answer, but the little research I've done into
auto-tuner algorithms suggests that it doesn't have to be too fancy --
I've tried ALT, that did not improve the match on 20m and 15m. I have also
very critically examined and re-flowed some solder joints without improved
results. I can't identify by inspection any problems with the capacitors and
inductors on the LC board.
I do have a high quality antenna analyzer,
Chip,
There is no regular procedure for using an antenna analyzer with the
KAT2, but if you saw a change in impedance with each of the manual
settings and those changes were consistent with adding (subtracting) the
amount of reactance equal to the particular inductor or capacitor
selected,
I have a recently obtained K2 with KAT2 module that I am trying to get up to
speed. I'll have more questions and data later, but to start with I have a
question about calibrating the SWR readings.
After going through the procedures in the manual, I find that the KAT2 under
reads SWR. When the
Chip,
I have found many KAT2s that underreport the SWR. There is no harm in
setting the REFL pot to maximum if that is what it takes. The KAT2 is
not a precision wattmeter when it comes to SWR - the reflected power
detected allows it to tune for an SWR minimum, no matter what that value
may
I'm considering purchasing a KPA100+KAT100-2 and building both in a separate
EC2 case.
My current K2 already has a KAT2 and KIO2 installed. I control the K2 with
HRD via the KIO2.
If I connect the K2 to the KPA100+KAT100-2, will I have to remove the KAT2
or is there a way to bypass it? What
Brian,
The external KPA100/KAT100 will co-exist nicely with the KAT2. You must
connect the BNC cable to the KAT100 RF in jack to ANT1, and the KAT2 is
automatically bypassed and forced to ANT1.
Build the cable that is specified for the KAT100. The connector with
two cables plugs into the
Here is a link to everything you need to know..
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
Jim, W4ATK
On Jan 14, 2011, at 10:41 AM, Brian - N5BCN wrote:
I'm considering purchasing a KPA100+KAT100-2 and building both in a
separate
EC2 case.
My current K2 already has a KAT2 and KIO2
hi Bob,
Bob Nielsen schrieb am 8 Nov 2010 um 18:09:
The K2 top cover has enough room for a KAT2, KBT2 and KIO2 all at the same
time. Have you installed something else in that space?
yes - a TRX PTC Pactor controller.
http://oe9fwv.shacknet.nu/oe9fwv/bilder/trxptc_innen_fertig.jpg
73! de
I would like to add a EC-2 with the KAT2 built in.
My K2 has no room for the KAT2 this is why I need a separate housing. The
KIO2 is built in.
The KAT2 is powered from the K2 KIO2, right? I'll have to connect the KIO2
and HF to the tuner, that's all?
I'll have to find out the correct pinout
The K2 top cover has enough room for a KAT2, KBT2 and KIO2 all at the same
time. Have you installed something else in that space?
Bob, N7XY
On Nov 8, 2010, at 2:28 PM, Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
I would like to add a EC-2 with the KAT2 built in.
My K2 has no room for the KAT2 this is why I
I just finished my KAT2 for my K2 #6980. According to p. 19 of the
instructions, my KAT2 is supposed to automatically reduce power to 3
watts if my power control is set higher during the autotune, if my
firmware revision is higher than 1.05 on the K2 Main Microcontroller.
My firmware is
Sorry, folks, the instruction manual clearly stated BAR graph and when
I switched to it everything worked just fine!!
Elecraft - 1; WB2LQF - 0
Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038 OOTC #4558 NAQCC #4740 SKCC #6488 FISTS #14992
On
See page 2 of the parts list in the K2 manual for a picture of P6. Then go
to appendix F (Parts placement drawing, top) There you will see how it is
to be installed. Your going to love this rig and the auto tuner really works
great. Geo/W2BPI
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE
Dipole
I would like to correspond with a K2/KAT2 owner who is
actually using an
Alpha-Delta DX-EE dipole.? This is a rather pricey
limited-space
antenna and would like to hear directly from some real
world users.
My guess
I would like to correspond with a K2/KAT2 owner who is actually using an
Alpha-Delta DX-EE dipole. This is a rather pricey limited-space
antenna and would like to hear directly from some real world users.
My guess is that there won't be too many of you out there but I thought
I'd ask anyway.
opinion. The 40
performance is what you would expect from a 40 dipole.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ
From: stan levandowski sjl...@optonline.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, September 19, 2010 8:49:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha
Stan,
I have one that's used for a general purpose (mostly
for diversity receiving) antenna in my SO2R station.
It works like what it is ... a fan dipole.
It's -extremely- well made and the over-all quality is
top-notch, but it's -heavy-, requiring my 150# to pull it
tight, and it still
Ken and Brett, thanks for your responses. It's all helpful. I have to
think this through now.
Thanks again,
Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038 OOTC #4558 NAQCC #4740 SKCC #6488 FISTS #14992
On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 10:40 PM, Brett
Paul,
Good to hear you were successful.
Yes, many amateur grade wattmeters are not accurate at low power.
Remember that those with analog meters have an accuracy spec based on
percentage of full scale - that is even true of the much revered Bird
meters which are speced at 5% of full scale -
I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton. I am seeing
a
high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts. I tried the other
antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr. I changed my
ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I
Paul,
Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting? If not, what do you
have connected to the ANT jack(s) - hopefully a dummy load. If it is
other than a dummy load, what happens with a dummy load attached?
Did you obtain a
.
Thank you for your time on the list.
Paul
Don't forget to take the right Path
-JRDL
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Paul Locker pmlo...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 8:01:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2
...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 8:01:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions
Paul,
Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting? If not, what do you have
connected to the ANT
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 10:30:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT2 Issues/Questions
Paul,
If you got a null reading of 006, there is no sense in re-doing it - that is
sufficiently low.
Do the procedures below in the order listed. Stop when one does not produce
With a little help from Don W. I seem to have my KAT2 up and going pretty good
and it sure is nice to have a built-in auto tuner again. My last QRP rig was a
Icom 703 which also has a nice auto tuner.
Here is my question. There are three ways to see SWR from what I understand.
1) holding
Ivan,
Note the f and the r in the display. That tells that the display is
showing both forward power and reflected power - and not SWR. The other
2 displays are the computed SWR.
All is well, go try your random wire (but stay warm).
73,
Don W3FPR
Ivin Flint wrote:
With a little help from
I recently decided to give my K2 (#3490) a tune-up. I hadn't done any
alignment on it since I built it in June of 2003. Realigning the
bandpass filters produced a noticeable improvement in receive
performance. I have the KAT2 antenna tuner option in it, so I re-did
the bridge null and
Joe,
Are you using the TUNE button when you make those measurements, or are
you doing CW and send 3 or 4 dots to assist in leveling the power and
then measure during a key-down period.
There is a difference. The K2 must have a bit of output before the power
levels out. With TUNE, there are no
Hello, I'm having a problem with my KAT2. I have built the board and
I'm on page 17 of the manual where you measure the voltage at pin B.
I always get 0 volts here. Here are some other observations:
I have the ATU menu set to CALn, Power set to 5.0, frequency set to 7.100Mhz.
After pressing
I'm sorry, I mean U1 (the PIC 16C77), not U4. U1 pin 5 is 3.8V
(forward), U1 pin 4 is 0V (reflected).
Thanks
Jay
On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 9:17 PM, Jay Sissomjsis...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello, I'm having a problem with my KAT2. I have built the board and
I'm on page 17 of the manual where you
Jay,
Read the instruction again. You do *not* measure the voltage at pad B
- that is only a reference point to help you find U4 pin 1. It is the
voltage at U4 pin 1 that is to be measured.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jay Sissom wrote:
Hello, I'm having a problem with my KAT2. I have built the board and
I have been stuck on that step for such a long time. Once I read it
wrong, every time I got the KAT2 out and thought I'd fix it, I read it
the same way. I have resoldered all the parts in the SWR reading
circuit multiple times and replaced T1 at least twice.
If I had just read properly, I would
OK just ordered the KAT2 auto tuner for my K2. Is there anything special
that I should do with it when I build it or just build it stock?
Thanks,
Mike
WE0H
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Mike,
AFAIK, there have never been any mods to the KAT2. If there have been,
it would have been for some special purpose that does not apply to most
station setups.
73,
Don W3FPR
Mike-WE0H wrote:
OK just ordered the KAT2 auto tuner for my K2. Is there anything special
that I should do
Hi folks,
I've finally had time to recalibrate my K2's KAT2 automatic antenna
tuner module using 25 and 100 Ohm loads on 40m. Please take a look at
my results and let me know if this is typical or if you think I have a
problem.
25 Ω (2.0:1)50 Ω (1.0:1)100 Ω (2.0:1)
1900
Michael,
I don't believe your results are a lot out of line, but neither can I
say that they are normal.
The diodes used in the wattmeter can have a frequency dependency - that
will be true for both the KAT2 and the OHR WM-2. If the frequency
dependency of the KAT2 is opposite that if the OHR
Clark Macaulay wrote:
I think the KAT2 is acting wierd. When to to TUNE with a dummy load,
* the display flashes in sequence ATU, then 10:1, then Lo P. If the KAT2
* is in CAL P or CAL S to bypass the little critter, the same three
* messages occur.
The classic cause of this is trying to
Well, I fired up my beloved K2 for the QRP contest this weekend and was treated
to a Lo P indication. Bummer.
I think the KAT2 is acting wierd. When to to TUNE with a dummy load, the
display flashes in sequence ATU, then 10:1, then Lo P. If the KAT2 is in CAL P
or CAL S to bypass the
Ok, I wiggled some wires and now when I press TUNE it goes to the ATU.
But I still have the problem of only about 0.02 V at TP B. I've
checked both boards (a whole bunch of times) for shorts or unsoldered
pins and haven't found any. Any ideas of where to look next?
73,
Kristina KE7LUC
Kristina,
Are you reading too fast and overlooking a whole sentence in the manual?
The 'point B' is only a visual reference. You should actually measure
at pin 1 of U4.
73,
Don W3FPR
Kristina Wright wrote:
Ok, I wiggled some wires and now when I press TUNE it goes to the ATU.
But I still
Hello group!
I'm putting together my KAT2 and having trouble with the Bridge Null
Adjustment (pg 16). When I first went through it, it worked fine until
step four on page 17, where I got well over the specified 3 or 4
volts. So I pulled it apart, checked everything, and reflowed T1. Now
Kristina Wright wrote:
So I pulled it apart, checked everything, and reflowed T1. Now I'm
trying to adjust C55 again, but I can't seem to get it to go to the ATU
when I press TUNE. It flashes ATU briefly, then says Hi Cur, then goes
to P 4.3 or so.
Some simple things to check are that you
Anyone have an assembled tuner or unassembled kit available excess to their
needs? I can do PayPal or a Money Order.
Please reply off the list. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vy 73, Bob WU5T/DJ0MBC
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database:
Hello all,
A few weeks ago I asked for advice on the use of the KAT2 feeding a length
of coax, followed by a balun connected to the balanced feeder of my doublet.
In my case 15 metre of coax is needed between the K2 and the balun/open wire
feeders.
Quite a few people seem to have a similar
On Thu, 6 Sep 2007 20:07:02 -, Roelof Bakker wrote:
When the balance is less than perfect common mode noise is introduced
in the system. The difference is amazing;
Yes, it is. But there is a FAR easier way to achieve that with plain
ordinary coax and a good common mode choke formed by
I had exactly the same experience as Roel and reached the same
conclusions. I agree that a commercial BALANCED autotuner would be
the best solution for an all-band dipole, if there were such a thing.
Like Roel, I attempted to use a KAT2 and balun arrangement for all-
band feeding of a
Lamb, Dick Judy wrote:
I had exactly the same experience as Roel and reached the same
conclusions. I agree that a commercial BALANCED autotuner would be the
best solution for an all-band dipole, if there were such a thing.
Oh, there is all right. It's just a bit expensive!
I had to design and build my own because I wanted to run up to a KW through
it. If I had to buy new matched roller inductors they alone would cost over
400 dollars.
I found most of what I needed in my junkbox or on Ebay but even so the parts
and materials alone were well over 300 dollars ...
Dick,
Warning, a bit of theory talk follows:
I believe your post combined two different aspects of tuners. Matching
range limitations are a fact of life with any tuner design whether
auto-tuner or manual and whether a balanced tuner or an unbalanced tuner.
In my attic I do have an old
In a message dated 9/6/07 6:07:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
With a good balun at the output of a good unbalanced autotuner, the
balance *should* be perfect. The task of finding out why it may not be
perfect in any one installation may indeed be more difficult
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2, KAT2 and displaced choke balun feed
I had to design and build my own because I wanted to run up
to a KW through
it. If I had to buy new matched roller inductors they alone
would cost over
400 dollars.
I found most of what I
:1.
I don't have the 160 meter option, might not work on that...
Brett
N2DTS
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roelof Bakker
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 9:44 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2, KAT2
Hello Brettet al,
Thank you all for the information.
I am considering a manual balanced tuner and a KAT2 and a choke balun.
Measuring the feeder current should reveal if there is any difference.
73,
Roelof Bakker, pa0rdt
G-QRP-C 6019
QRP-ARCI 8405
Middelburg, Netherlands
JO11tm
--
Mijn
Hello all,
I have just finished K2 # 6177 and with all HF bands to my disposal, I am
looking for a more convenient way to feed my doublet wire antenna with open
feeder. My shack is in the dining room (my wife is very forgiving) and the
antenna feed-in is on the window sil at the opposite side
of this information as well.
I hope this information helps.
Robie - AJ4F
- Original Message -
From: Roelof Bakker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 8:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2, KAT2 and displaced choke balun feed
Hello all,
I have just
According to the manual, it should be possible to adjust the null to
000, and it should be a broad null. On mine, it was extremely sharp,
and wouldn't get lower than 010, flickering to 011. Does this indicate
a problem? I went ahead and finished the installation -- the voltages
were fine, and
Peter,
Yes, the KAT2 can be nulled without removing R6, and yes, obtaining a
minimum reading of 10 or 11 is quite normal.
The reason for initially having R6 not installed has to do with checking
for shorts - but since the manual calls for a specific voltage range for
the check, the null
Peter,
One easy check is to make sure all relay pins are soldered. It is easy
to miss one, especially near one of the board vias (empty through-holes0
and a missed coil pin gives you a 50% chance of having the relay stuck
such that an extra L or C is on the at all times.
Others will respond
Hi Gang,
Used my trusty K2 at the K2ZR 2A-Battery FD at the Buffalo Lighthouse
again this year. It bagged the lions share of our 1166 HF CW QSO's.
Murphy struck at the opening bell. In a nutshell, we had the CF ladder
dipole connected to ANT1 and the yagi to ANT2. The first op noticed poor
Mark,
The only electrical thing that could cause a difference between ANT1 and
ANT2 is the relay contacts of KAT2 K18. Other than those contact
closures and the PC board traces there is nothing different between ANT1
and ANT2. You might want to consult the schematic and do a continuity
I am going to use an Elecraft antenna tuner with the K2, but I have not
decided whether to go with the KAT2 or T1. There was only one review of the
KAT2
on eham, but maany on the T1. many of the latter reviews pertained to the
FT-817 rather than the K2, however.The few reviews of those
I'd like to get opinions from the group on this idea:
My K2 has the KAT2 which means the original antenna jack is covered up and
not used. I hate
waste so I've been thinking how I could use it. Couldn't I install a SPDT
switch or relay so I could
select either the original jack without the
Ken,
Don't do that - leave the original jack covered and just forget that it is
there. If you use it with the KAT2 installed, the K2 will not properly
control power output (it knows the KAT2 is installed and will be looking for
the power output level to come from the wattmeter in the KAT2).
I considered decoding the xverter select lines for this ... and
modding the KAT2 to not override the RF sense, that way you could map a
transverter band to the port. After switching to XV series transverters,
tho, I don't really have a reason.
On Fri, 10 Feb 2006, Ken Bessler wrote:
85 matches
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