Hey guys,
sorry for not having replied sooner, but I just found the reply all button
recently (3 minutes ago :-)). And of course thanks for the great answers I
got on my first posting on the pouchboats forum.
As some of you might remember, I planned to make a north alaska retreival
kayak,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...
For the hull material I found polyurethane coated polyester (It was dead
cheap, so Ididn' t look any further for a nylon fabric). Of course the
coating is way too thin to be durable enough. I don't think that it' ll be able to
withstand the abuse a boat gets...
Hi,Lew!
Thanks for the comprehensive description. I believe that I can visualize most
of what you describe except how the skin will be tensioned longitudinally ...
but I'll re-read that section a couple of times before I send more questions.
I can't wait to see pictures of the various stages
So here ' s my question: Does anybody have a cheap idea how to waterproof
the fabric (one side is still uncoated)? I thought about a thinned
100%silicone sealer for windows?
Hans-Juergen Staude used thinned silicone for a couple of years to waterproof
spraydeck and deck of
his boats. To make
Ralph sez:
.. I suggest a polyurethane. Industrial supply houses generally have one-part
flexible polyurethane coatings sold as non-slip floor coatings. They're
tough, stick to themselves and should hopefully stick to your cloth. ...
Hi, Mike! Do you have any practical experience with this
I bought a sheet of 6mm plywood from CLC. The frame,
when complete, will resemble a traditional Greenland
style frame. The gunwales will look like an I-beam
with the plwood serving as the core and yellow cedar
strips at the corners (except for the top inside edge
which will have a beefier strip