Greetings all,
I've found some very nice photos of finished lace in a book written in 1973
in Swedish, called Knypplerskan, by Inga-Lisa Olsson. Our guild library has
volumes 1, 2, & 3. There is an English translation tucked in each volume
too. In the back there is a "list of the patterns which
Hi Arachnids
When making Flora Bucks I photocopy my pricking onto coloured paper and stick
it to a thin coloured card, one that I know will stand up to my tension. I
pre-prick the ground and fillings to make sure they are regular but
prick-as-I-go around the motifs. That gives the the possibility
Leonard, a now sadly gone old lacemaker who learned the craft in Northern
England many, many years ago, was taught to just draw out the pattern with
lines, and then put up the pins where necessary as she worked!
I saw her patterns and also her work, - and it was just as good as those of
us who
Dear All
One further thought on prickings: I am working on/working out a fairly complex
Beds pattern, and am at present on version 3. Â I have pricked out, from the
paper draft, the pinholes for the pattern features and trails, and foot and
headside, but on Mrs Underwood's advice, just marked
Sorry not to snip but need both posts to explain my answer.
When I make a mistake on the lines on my pricking, I very, very gently scratch
the line out and the rub the offending place down with the wooden end of my
bulbous pricker. After I've made my first piece of lace with the pricking you
Can you still get that now?
If not a small tube of acrylic paint could be substituted, but choose an
opaque colour, not a transparent one! Yellow ochre is opaque as is titanium
white.
Brenda
On 16 Jun 2015, at 08:33, Leonard Bazar leonard...@yahoo.com wrote:
Using permanent ink means a
Hi Arachnids
If you use a good quality pricking card, not necessarily a thick one, your
holes will not enlarge and you will be able to reuse it many times. Hence, no
need for plastic.
Happy lacemaking
Alex
P.S. Check that your pricker needle has the same diameter as your pins. Then
the pins
plastic covering on their patterns, they need it to
prevent their needles from getting caught on the paper, but am puzzled why so
many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings. When access to photocopying
first became cheap enough for lace teachers to use for passing on patterns to
students coloured
many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings. When access to photocopying
first became cheap enough for lace teachers to use for passing on patterns to
students coloured paper was not an option, also the print would easily smudge.
Hence we used plastic to seal the print and the colour
I'm assuming laser dots are colour fast?
I use a HP Laserjet 1022 and no, it is not color fast. In fact I can even
erase it off the paper.
Susie in Illinois
cjohnson0...@comcast.net
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Reply all:
We were told to use it because the black dots can transfer ink if using
home based ink jet printers. So the plastic is used to protect the dots.
I'm assuming laser dots are colour fast? Also the plastic cover keeps the
pricking holes from getting larger or losing accuracy due placing
Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote:
but am puzzled why so many continue to use it on bobbin lace prickings.
I usually cover my prickings with clear plastic, for several reasons:
1. As others have said, to protect from moisture. Those of us living in dry
climates (humidity
Following Jane's question about rose ground. Another thought has come to
me.We all know the most common symbols for features of, a dot in the
centre of a space for a tally or a mayflower, a diamond for Roseground, a
circle for honeycomb etc., but I wondered if anyone had their own favourite
I always mark in the crosses at the corners of Roseground. It makes it
easier to avoid taking the wrong pairs in at the corners (particularly
where beginners are concerned) and for visualising the pattern.
In message 002d01cf9cdf$ea1b9530$be52bf90$@roger.karoo.co.uk, Maureen
One thing the discussions of this - using heelball, pricking through original
prickings etc - makes very clear that the photocopiers we now take for granted
are a very modern invention, and most of us can remember when they were
unreliable - distorted, shrunk patterns on odd shiney paper that
Hi Arachnids
When I learned patterned drafting with Pam Nottingham she reprimanded me when
I was drawing the guidelines in pen. She told me to ALWAYS draw in pencil
first in case you make a mistake and you can correct it easily at this stage.
Then trace over it in ink and, when the ink is dry,
Hi
I probably got my heelball from you, have had it since I lived in Essex.
Just got back from a day of demonstrating lace in our local garden centre which
is based in an old commercial greenhouse. Well I didn't do a lot of lace but
several kids went home with fish. It was not as hot as last
i found many years ago while demonstrating that if i put my feet up on a
flat brick, that little bit saved not only my feet but my lower back too.
it is tense work sharing our lovelies. because of the weight, i didn't
want to carry 2 bricks with me so i got styrofoam and used that. you can
I can remember those days as well. My first lace teacher used to have the lace
patterns which we pricked through them, there were no instructions, no
technical drawings and sometimes not even a sample of the lace to look at.
Those were the days before Pamela Nottingham books, my first lace
Geesh Maureen
Had to look up what heelball is!
You taught me something today.
Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK
Then I went to a teacher who taught me to draw out patterns on graph paper
and never looked back. I Even have some heelball in a box somewhere.
Maureen
E Yorks UK
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I also started my lacemaking (in 1970) with pre-prepared prickings on glazed
card. These were sometimes bought, or made by pricking very carefully and
accurately through another pricking. The books I started with were Maidment,
and Mincoff and Marriage. Then came new books by Doreen Wright and Pam
Sorry - that should be linen ends, not line ends!
Kathleen
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Yes, Devon, I am young enough (old enough? :-) ) to remember pre-blue film
days. I still have some of my early prickings that were done on blue
cardboard (maybe it's the glazed kind that someone - Mary Carey maybe? -
referred to a couple of days ago). One side of the card has a 'matte'
finish
When I first learned to make lace at Kempston School's evening classes,
near Bedford, UK We had to first trace the pricking from the original,
then prick through onto brown pricking card, mark in the relevant lines
with pencil(which could be rubbed out in case of a mistake) and then go
over it
Called 'eaches' (sp?).
:)
On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 3:31 AM, Kathleen Harris ec...@cix.co.uk wrote:
...I have forgotten what they are called
Sorry - that should be linen ends, not line ends!
--
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada
-
To
I remember that when I first started to learn BL we were taught to prick
through one card to make another. You soon learned who not to lend your
prickings to!
The black substance Devon referred to would be heelball, which is a mixture of
wax and lamp-black (soot!), and used for polishing
Hello Devon and everyone
Maybe it was in the late 1990's that I first heard of covering a pricking
with blue film, was it from another lacemaker, could even have been on
Arachne?!
When I bought a lace kit from Pussy Willow Lace Supplies, about 1990, the
pricking was on blue card. The prickings in
It was definitely the photocopy machine that led to the adoption of blue
film. When I started taking lace lessons in 1971 my teacher pricked the
prickings. She would draw them on graph paper because it is more accurate to
prick the intersection of two lines, than a dot. Then she would prick
Well, we have covered the Blue Film (and alternatives) subject to death,
so I thought to look at some of my bobbin lace books for photos of old and
not-so-old lace makers and lace pillows for a sense of history and with a
sense of present-day conservation experience.
For centuries, lace
Read the posts about storing used prickings. Lots of good information.
I, too, like to keep them in the book the pattern came from if possible. I
keep them in plastic page protectors...cut to fit the book if need
be...keeps them from falling out when you open the book.
I've found out the
Peg,
A suggestion re using pens, etc., may I suggest you invest in some lignin
free pens. You can get them in the scrapbook section of Michaels or Hobby
Lobby. They work great have no acid properties on them as regular pens
have.
Sallie in Wyoming
Sent from my iPhone
Thanks, Sallie.
Jenny
I use a variant of the last option you mentionned for storing prickings,
diagrams and such. But I sort them out by structural type rather than trying
to keep a libtrary like system (what you descirbed seemed to have such
elements). So: torchon, Beds, Cluny, Russian tape, Cantu, etc. The
Lorelei Halley lhal...@bytemeusa.com wrote:
I've noticed that a lot of art supplies that used to be easily available just
don't exist any more. I
suppose the age of computer art has destroyed all the felt markers, colored
plastic sticky film. But there are still people who use actual
Dear Alice and other Friends,
Many thanks for this interesting email.
I too use paper prickings with plastic contact covering. However, I
very rarely use the same one twice. I've always meant to make a
folder for these finished prickings, but at present they are all in a
drawer. I do make a
If you have cut the edges of the pricking parallel to the pricking, perhaps
you could wrap a tape or ribbon around the roller at the edge of the
pricking as to act as tramlines; as you work you just need to keep the pricking
sitting squarely between them and do tiny tweaks as necessary.
I will admit I've never been patient enough to get up and find a ruler and
measure a set distance from the side of the roller to the footside. I've
always been to keen to get the pricking on the pillow and get started, and
found that just eye-balling it isn't completely reliable, and the
Dear Charlotte and other kind Helpers,
I tried using pins along the sides to keep the pricking in place and
as I recall that helped some. But basically I would have to lift the
pricking, lace and pins and move them back into position.
I couldn't stand to have to do that. There are 90 pairs
going
even further back along the pattern
Sue
- Original Message -
From: David C COLLYER dccoll...@ncable.net.au
To: Charlotte Moore nhsmo...@cox.net; lace@arachne.com
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2011 8:05 AM
Subject: RE: [lace] Prickings
I couldn't stand to have to do
David,
You have enough pattern hanging off the back of the roller to reach back, match
up the top and bottom sections of the pricking and hold the two together when
you are ready to roll up your work. Pull firmly in place and pin the next inch
or two of the pricking (depending on your roller
David
When I have an edging pattern where the repeats don't fit right on the roller
I pad the roller with several layers of wool to make its diameter larger. Of
course there are limits to this. The limiting factor is the depth of the box
the roller sits in -- how much clearance there is under
Lorelei Halley wrote When I have an edging pattern where the repeats don't
fit right on the roller I pad the roller with several layers of wool to make
its diameter larger
When I'm using my roller pillow it is because I'm making a long length. In
my opinion it is better to have the pattern a
Malvary
Two of my roller pillows have rollers wrapped tightly with wool cloth, so
sticking the pins into the same spot doesn't damage anything. But one of my
pillows has a polyethylene (Ethafoam) roller, so that ones doesn't present a
real problem either. I hadn't thought about the issue of what
David, if you have to remove and re-pin make yourself a felt pad that
becomes larger in the centre than at the front and back edges, then work
onto it (tuck it up under your pricking)
You can them remove the lace, pins and all, and straighten it up on the
roller, push down some of the pins, and
The modern lacemaker seems to do a wide variety of patterns rather than
concentrating on just a few for her lifetime.
If a pattern is going to be used only once, there's little concern that the
pricking will endure. However, I have found that I will repeat some patterns
several times, or many
Janice Blair wrote:
The pattern was drawn on the plastic and then placed down on the felt so the
ink would not come off on the threads. We were not working on any type of
pillow and the plastic gave the work some stability. My piece is finished and
framed! It may not be the best tensionwise,
Dear All
I also use architects linen where I can when I work needlelace but agree
with Catherine that architects linen is very pale. I had a reasonable
store of this as I worked in a solicitors office and they used to use it for
the plans on legal documents but now that everything is
Catherine wrote:
I have been given to understand that computers have now replaced the need for
Architect's linen but anyone you know who makes needlelace would be most
grateful to receive some.
I am not sure if I have seen Architects linen, but this summer I took my first
ever needlelace class
: Ipswich lace prickings
On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise
Hays wrote:
I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel
on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no
patterns.
It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I
know, it's the only
Galena Illinois
USA
My blog - http://dianelaces.wordpress.com/
From: Tamara P Duvall t...@rockbridge.net
To: Lace Arachne lace@arachne.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:43:18 PM
Subject: [lace] Re: Ipswich lace prickings
On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise
Hays
On May 13, 2009, at 11:22, jeria...@aol.com wrote:
Dear Arachnids,
Elise lives near me. I'm able to take care of her questions.
The question was asked on the list and answered on the list. I don't
see a problem with that.
--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Does anyone know of a book of prickings (preferably with diagrams) for
Ipswich lace? I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel
on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no
patterns. I know that examples of the lace and prickings exist, but I
On May 12, 2009, at 18:20, Elise Hays wrote:
I have the book The Laces of Ipswich by Marta Cotterell Raffel
on order, but from what I can gather it is more of a history and has no
patterns.
It does have some patterns in it; 6, to be precise. As far as I know,
it's the only book that has ever
Michele Griffin motherch...@gci.net wrote:
what is a good, inexpensive pillow for teaching a new person and for someone
that can't afford to go pillow comparison shopping. All of our lace purchases
(save thread) are made onlineso links would be great too. -
Hey, don't go back to
Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net wrote:
Assuming you only work one piece at a time, this pillow will serve you
for almost anything you want to make. (But... in honesty, only working
one piece at a time is way more disciplined than most of us want to be!!)
Ah, but Clay, you
Yes, but to be strictly accurate, if you're using the pillow for more
than one project, then you'll need to order and cover at least one extra
block for each extra project!! (But... that's a pittance, compared to
buying another pillow!!)
Also, I've known people who headed off the
I have a One and Only that I got soon after learning BL and it's been in almost
constant use for 15 years. None of the blocks have needed replaced yet. I
also have a second one (which a friend is currently using) and plan to cover a
third one which I won't lend out. G
I put a circle of felt
Thank you everyone, on- and off-line. An embarrassment of choice.
This was the most ridiculous situation and you've helped me avoid
embarrassment.
Three chairs for Arachne!
Sr. Claire
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 8:35 AM, Sister Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:
Hi all,
I've got myself in a
I went on a course recently with Christine Springett.
Before the course, I received a questionaire, asking about my skills in
lacemaking, and Bedfordshire lace in particular.
She then send a sheet with her own patterns on it, suggesting the ones
suitable for me. I was asked to prepare a
This is an exception, I'm quite sure, but Gunvor Jorgenson, who teaches
Tonder lace, comes to class with prickings already pricked on card stock and
distributes them to her students at the beginning of class!
Tonder is a Danish point-ground lace, similar in some ways to Bucks, but
with some very
From: Noelene Lafferty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I've been having a discussion with some Australian lacemaking
friends about
whether photocopied prickings should be supplied to participants
before a
workshop, so that they can prepare their prickings properly before the
workshop begins.
In my
In my experience, this varies with the teacher and the
lace. At Arachne 98 conference, we met the teachers
the evening before classes started and got our
patterns. We were to have them pricked by the time
class started. This gave a brief meeting with the
teacher for choosing an appropriate
Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 17 September 2006 10:45
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: Re: [lace] Prickings for workshops
It would be very hard for a teacher to send
the prickings in advance so they could be pricked. Who should she send
each pattern to?
Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
(formerly
At 09:27 AM 16/08/03 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi, can I suggest you are not using the right sort of blue film. The one me
and my friends use is not shiny but matt and does not make your pins sticky.
Dear Friends,
Can I also suggest that the shiny transparent plastic we get here is less
An alternative method is to cut the pricking slightly smaller than the
card,
and take a piece of 'blue transparent film' slightly larger, and use this to
attach the pricking to the card. You then have to prick all the holes, as
before, but you don't have to draw any lines. The main disadvantage of
Linda,
Laminating - what a brilliant idea! My office has a photocopier, a lot of
blue paper and a small laminator - I'm all set!
Thanks for the idea.
Annette,
London
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In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Milada Marshall
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Following recent local talk about the method of doing prickings, may I ask
what is your normal / preferred method?
I usually use the first of Milada's two methods - although as I mostly
work my own designs, I rarely use
On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 07:26:16 +0100, Annette wrote:
I don't have anything to prick onto yet, so I use the bottom of my polystyrene
mushroom pillow. I've just bought a block pillow, and intend to use the side
of the blocks to prick. I suppose I ought to go and get a polystyrene ceiling
tile from
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:34:04 +0100, Milada wrote:
Following recent local talk about the method of doing prickings, may I ask
what is your normal / preferred method?
I use 2 methods, depending on whether I need to work repeats on the same
pricking for that piece of lace. My choice of methods is
Hi, can I suggest you are not using the right sort of blue film. The one me
and my friends use is not shiny but matt and does not make your pins sticky.
KEEP LACING, VIVIENNE, BIGGINS
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If I'm going to use the pricking only once, I photocopy it on blue paper
and iron fusible interfacing to the back. There's no need to prick and
I've had good results with this easy method.
Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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At 08:32 AM 8/16/2003 +0100, you wrote:
Laminating - what a brilliant idea! My office has a photocopier, a lot of
blue paper and a small laminator - I'm all set!
A word of caution -- there are different weights of laminating film. Be
sure you have the very lightest/thinnest weight for
I use a cork mat, and pricking parchment that I get from lace suppliers. I
have two sizes of cork mat, as it's not easy having to move large prickings
halfway through. I put a photocopy of the piece on top, fixed with paper
clips and use drawing pins to hold the two sheets firmly in place on the
The inner packet of cereal boxes used to be grease-proof paper (nice and
waxy), but now they all seem to be going for foil.
Jean in Poole
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