Ben,
What type of ortho are you using? This sounds
interesting to me.
Don
--- bendur...@aol.com wrote:
Dear All
I have been using ortho in coke can pinhole cameras.
But the negatives appear to be positive upon
development.
Could anyone tell me why this should be?
Cheers
Ben
I have a circle of black plastic (1 diameter) with a
1/8 inch hole in the center. To the back of this
plastic piece I have mounted and centered a pinhole
made from .001 brass shim (you can use anything though
- pop can, foil, whatever). I superglued this piece
to the camera. What used to be the
Shannon,
All you need to do is pry off the lens/shutter
assembly with a flat metal implement(I use a kitchen
knife). Remove the underlying shutter and mount your
pinhole. I can send you a pic of one I did if you
need a bit of visual assistance.
Don
--- Shannon Stoney
Heidi,
This may be blasphemy - but any of the diana variants
are easily converted.
Don
--- CRABBE Heidi S h.s.cra...@staffs.ac.uk wrote:
Hello,
Can anyone recommend a medium format camera (6x6)
that's simple to convert to pinhole?
Thanks!
Heidi
Cj and All -
Regarding the darkroom, I have almost given up on
mine. Last week CompUSA had a great deal on the new
Epson 3200 scanner that I could not pass up.
Accordingly, I have spent the last week scanning and
printing various negatives (pinhole and otherwise),
via MIS Quadtones and I can
Sherry,
You do not need a special drill bit - just one that
isn't too big, nor too small - anything 1/8 inch and
smaller is a good starting point. A useful bit is
made for a Dremel Tool and is shaped like a cone. If
you drill from the front, it makes a nice beveled
edge.
--- sherry rea
Ben,
Pinhole bodycaps are the best thing since nikkor
lenses. However, it would be just as easy to build
one as to purchase one, and you would save a few
dollars.
--- bendur...@aol.com wrote:
Hello
Are pinhole bodycaps anygood?
I want to buy one from pinhole resource but I don't
know if
:
I guess when these are in place, you can't use the
viewfinder?
Do you just kind of point and hope?
On Sunday 23 March 2003 02:03 pm, D. Hill wrote:
James,
If I can include very cool pinhole things on ebay
-
zoneplate bodycaps for nikon and canon eos, items
2919261336
James,
If I can include very cool pinhole things on ebay -
zoneplate bodycaps for nikon and canon eos, items
2919261336 and 2919262111. God bless Ebay.
Don
--- James Kellar m...@jameskellar.com wrote:
I was just taking a look on ebay and found lots of
good pinhole items.
Everything from a
Well, allright then, my legal name - Bob D. Bobson
IV. But instead of money, I only have
Snickerdoodles... Good thing I didn't tell you to get
the shotgun for a multi-hole pinhole project...
Don
--- John Moore jlmoore...@myway.com wrote:
Okay, I've gone made the camera. I took a 16x11x11
In the revised edition of Renner's Pinhole (I can't
remember where and too lazy to look) someone did what
you are attempting as a self-portrait - Very Cool. I
believe it was a much more powerful projectile though.
Don
--- Philip willarney pwillar...@yahoo.com wrote:
pinhole-discussion@p at
The finney bodycaps seem a bit pricey for a $1.75
bodycap with $.02 brass shim material attached.
However, if it had a much smaller pinhole it would be
a much more useful item.
--- Ed Nazarko enaza...@acumen-sciences.com wrote:
The Finney pinhole that's made for Nikon says, on
the paper that
- Original Message -
From: D. Hill zopp...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 10:21 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Remember the daylab
discussion?
Hi all,
Just a cheesy self-promotion here. About a month
back
I wrote about
Ben,
Unfortunately the Vivitar is no longer manufactured -
thus commanding high prices in the used arena.
Another reccomendation would be to purchase a Daylab
35 or a Daylab Jr. It works the same as the vivitar,
however you have more controls (cc filters and a
greater variable flash time) than
Any of the time-life series (and their various
offspring) plastic cameras are great to convert, and
some can be modified for a bulb setting - very time
consuming and rewarding for such a goofy camera that
makes great pictures. I just looked at mine, and it
is labeled as a Nishiki Super II This
Hi all,
Due to the cost difference of type 55, I am
considering the use of polaroid type 665 for a
project. Has anyone tried the polaroid neg's with
printing platinum? This will be my first attempt with
the medium and any information will be appreciated.
My worry is that the neg will not have a
Hi Ronnie, welcome to the list.
In my work with pinhole and zoneplate bodycaps I use
any slide film which is of high contrast due to the
low-contrast nature of pinhole. My latest ventures
are with Velvia, a nice contrasty slide film. If you
have good friends in a developing lab, or if you
Calumet stocks them, do they have a storefront?
--- Eric S. Theise mat...@cyberwerks.com wrote:
Hi,
I'm doing a workshop this Sunday and next Thursday
at the Chicago
Printmakers Collaborative. If there's anyone on the
list that knows a
photo (or other) store in Chicago that has Holgas in
Hi all,
I will be using polaroid type 669 in a pinhole
utilizing daylight. Has anyone done any color
correction tests so that I may bave this information
before I start? Specifically, what gel do I need to
correct for any overall color casts? My goal is to
have the pics as neutral as possible.
Steve,
The older model, #500, is the one some people can't
quite get to work right. These go for about $5 plus
shipping on a good day. I used one exclusively with
Type 55 P/N (black and white), and with the type 79
(color). Mine was pretty busted and old but it worked
perfectly. I think the
Ben,
Try a longer exposure, for if the image washes away it
was not exposed long enough. Also, as the image
dries, it intensifies. A quick check of this is to
put a washed test print in a drymount press or print
dryer.
Don
--- Ingo Guenther ingoguent...@web.de wrote:
Hi Ben,
at first try
cobbling together, a
rangefinder 4x5, and I can only use the smallest of
4x5 backs preferably the grafloc.
Don
--- Guillermo pen...@rogers.com wrote:
- Original Message -
From: D. Hill zopp...@yahoo.com
Does anyone have a spare 4x5 spring or grafloc
back?
I really need one
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have a spare 4x5 spring or grafloc back?
I really need one, write me with what you want for it.
Don
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Ian,
Is this the intregal film, for the one-step cameras?
You will know if the film pack has two foil dots on
the metal base (battery contacts)
If so the easiest method is to build your camera
around the entire cartridge - not just shooting one
sheet at a time. You will need a polaroid 600 or
Gordon,
Sounds much like the Granview cameras- http://www.granview.com - an excellent
idea to modify and use for pinhole.
Don
Gordon J. Holtslander wrote:Hi:
Since things are quiet...
I want to build something to take closeups of small objects. I keep
seeing little things on the ground that I
Allright, we all make beautiful cameras, and Little League games shouldn't keep
score, and everyone who graduates from High School is qualified to be one of 80
co-validictorians. Now what I wrote was concerning pinhole cameras in
production (lensless, renner, you get the idea.)
These are the
Hi All!
Quick question, Have any of you tried RA-4 paper in a pinhole? My university
has a dry to dry processor which we will be using this semester for color work.
My idea is to cut down Crystal Archive, Luster finish, so it will fit into a
film holder. This I will process and scan on my
Hi everyone,
After all this time in the darkroom, I have found it to be a good time to
simplifly and condense some space with a Jobo Duolab. Do any of you use this?
I have a specific question about it's agitation for the film tube, and whether
it continuously spins in one direction, or if it
Rune,
For standard bodycaps the pinhole to film distance on the EOS cameras is 46mm.
Don
Rune Tallaksen wrote:I am wondering if any of you more experienced people on
the list can
help me with this minor challenge. I will like to mount a pinhole on a
bodycap and put it on one of my EOS bodies.
I
Steve,
You have some interesting replies so far, so I'll keep this brief so that you
do not get overwhelmed by all the good answers.
1. If you are interested in scanning to Photo CD and are going to do more than
100 scans, consider a trip to CompUSA. Most of them carry a small dedicated
Amen Leonard! You're the king!
Don
Leonard Peterson lrp...@hotmail.com wrote: I know, from working years in a
camera store and teaching photography
classes, the following: Lots and lots of picture takers talk and talk
techniques to death and never making any prints. The only way to find
Well friends, it's happening again... I don't want to be a Fuji fanatic -
preferably an evangelist. If you want a good substitution for good-ole Tri-X,
get a can of Fuji Neopan 400. Still the same film it was 10 years ago, and
still the same film 10 years from now.
Thanks for the info
Aperture priority will work, and a quick and easy method to deal with any
reciprocity is to do a few things, first, half your ASA rating on your camera
and shoot merrily while you smile. Additionally, If you are shooting BW you
can use a more efficient or compensating developer in the
You can get the 120 and 35mm Acros at BH, but the 4x5 is not available in the
states. However it should be available in Canada, if you can get someone to
ship it to you.
Don
Leonard Peterson lrp...@hotmail.com wrote:
Where do you get 120 in the States? Does anyone have access to 4x5?
Colin,
Acros is Fuji's new 100 speed black and white film, and unfortunately it is not
a repackage of SS, just a new film. I too am a great fan of Fuji's black and
white materials, and work that I have done with across shows that it is an
amazing film - incidentally, it is a great
Absolutely - go to your local Wal-mart and in the house paint section they
have long rolls of black plastic for about $5. I forget the name but it is a
thick substance. Anyway, cover all light entry points with this material and
tape it around the window perimeter either to the sill or the
Hi all,
This is in response to a thread we had a month or so ago. I just returned from
a week of shooting in and around Grand Rapids, MI. To my surprise, the Grand
Rapids airport is one of 5 nationwide which has installed the latest and
greatest in x-ray technology. Immediately as I
Chad,
I use an older gossen luna-six for pinhole, unfortunately it only goes to f90,
but I just set the meter to ASA 25 when shooting tmax 100 and use the reading
on f90 - it works well for my work.
Don
chad white chadwh...@mac.com wrote:
what is a good light meter for pinhole f-stops ? i
wrote:
D Hill writes:
I'll second Len's advice on a used D2 - they may be a bit more
expensive than other used enlargers but it quite possibly is the last
enlarger you will ever buy.
Glad to see this thread; I have an enlarger-related question that I'm
sure can be answered by people
I'll second Len's advice on a used D2 - they may be a bit more expensive than
other used enlargers but it quite possibly is the last enlarger you will ever
buy.
Don
Leonard Peterson lrp...@hotmail.com wrote: Shannon Stoney wrote:
I am looking for a used enlarger. I looked on ebay and the
Listmembers,
On a recent flight to Orlando, I made the decision not to bring the photo
equipment. This turned out to be a good thing, as my wife and I were subjects
of a two-hour wait for the security check. It did pain me not to bring my
equipment, but it did offer me an opportuinity I did
Good luck with the slit images, I just did a series with the same process -
beautiful images result from the process - not quite pinhole, not quite
anything else, just remember to keep the slits clean - if not you get a
horrible banding across the image - sorry but the run on sentences are
If you use only one slit, the image is very diffused and will be greatly
stretched in the same direction as the slit, it is actually a great process.
However, if you use 2 slits perpendicular to each other, one in front of the
other and offset by a short distance (say the depth of a washer),
Beau,
I would first suggest a shorter exposure time in camera for less contrasty
negs. If Dektol is not sufficient at a dilution of 1:20, an alternative would
be to use film developer in a weak dilution. Rodinal in a dilution of 1:100
for about 6.5 minutes looks dynamite. Actually, Rodinal
Kate,
An easy and inexpensive camera to convert would be the Holga, it has the
rangefinder but you would be limited in shutter speed control. - one speed, no
time or bulb settings.
Another easy camera to convert would be an older Agfa Isolette or Jsolette.
It's a 6x6 120 camera with a
Greetings,
I have also considered piezography, however it is questionable whether it would
work with my epson 875dc. My prints are generally quite smallish, no bigger
than 6x9 and I have great results with the epson ink sets. There are plenty of
users who find fault with the Epson 870/1270
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