- Original Message -
From: Murray upt...@uptowngallery.org
Has anyone ever tried making a 'ground glass' viewing plate (or whatever
you
call it), either with 'non-glare' etched picture framing glass, or
subjecting a piece of this or other glass to additional abrasion?
I have used
Colin - you make good points. I would like to add another. At
Parkhurst Center we require our represented artists and photographers to
provide a full disclosure statement for each print or photo. We do not
tell them how to edition or if they should or should not edition. That
is an artistic
I, too, have at least as much experience with
printmaking as with photography. Numbering or not is
entirely a personal choice, it seems to me. What does
seem important is that you do it, if you choose to, in
a way that is consistent and one that simply and
honestly tells the consumer (and reminds
Both vinagar and stop bath are Acetic acid CH3COOH. The only thing that
counts is lowering the PH to stop the development . If you skimp on the
stop you will use up your fixer prematurely. There is no free lunch.
Richard Heather
Erich wrote:
Jeremy,
just wondering if anyone has tried
Here's more of the story on water/vinegar stop baths...
Water alone is a good stop bath but it works by diluting the developer,
which takes longer than the acid stop bath's chemical reaction. You need
more agitation to eliminate streaks.
Those spots than stop baths cause are from gas bubbles
--- Dan Gerber dger...@adobe.com wrote:
Water alone can also be used as stop bath, just keep it in there for twice
as long, and I like to agitate a little more.(I hate the smell of indicator
stop bath!)
This can be done, but you will exhaust your fixer considerably quicker. It is
very much a
Somewhere in the archive is a post from Sam Wang where he describes how
to pre-fog your paper from the back to the same density of the
watermark, effectivly hiding it.
Richard Heather wrote:
You can scan the negs, invert, and print digitally.
Richard Heather
R Duarte wrote:
ugh. i just
I used to use stop bath religiously but now I don't bother and boy is it
easier and less smelly. I rarely need the bath anyway as I make sure the
fixer is fresh anyway and I have more room and less clutter. Stop bath is
useful in printing only if you are going to do like so many prints..
Another important feature of the stop bath is that it helps buffer contaminents
moving from the developer to the fix. Without this step, the fix will become
exhausted much quicker.
Cheers-
george
--- Gordon Holtslander hol...@duke.usask.ca wrote:
Develpoers depend on an alkaline
Whether or not you want the camera, at the buy it price of $319 that is
still $40 cheaper than buying it on Pinhole Resource, the only other place I
have seen this camera for sale. http://www.pinholeresource.com/products.html
Cheers
Ray
Hey!
This was on ebay a couple of weeks agor
Has anyone ever tried making a 'ground glass' viewing plate (or whatever you
call it), either with 'non-glare' etched picture framing glass, or
subjecting a piece of this or other glass to additional abrasion?
Thanks
Murray
I THINK the phenomenon is called the tribolectric effect (has nothing to
do with natives being restless).
When I was a kid my father showed me that with wha the then called 'friction
tape (?)' if I remember right - kinf d of like black cloth electrical tape
before PVC was hip.
I also think it's
Lisa - I agree with Eric. The IFPDA site has a lot of good info on
numbering. Like Eric I am basically a printmaker but I use the same
system in photography. I see no reason to do otherwise. Most
photographers do not number their prints. I do and after the edition is
printed, I pull one extra
I think I remember hearing back when I was in school that Agfa recognized
this problem, and redesigned the packaging somehow(different tape??)and it
was difficult to get their paper for a short period of time because of it.
At the time, I was experimenting with different FB papers, and found that
You get it all the time when loading 35mm or 120 film, when you pull the
tape off. I've never seen it cause a problem.
- Original Message -
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:56 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] agfa
Develpoers depend on an alkaline environment. When the film developer
combination is placed in an acidic environment development slows
down or ceases completely.
Stop bath is a mild acid, it lowers the pH of the environment to the extent
that the developer can no longer function and thus
Hi Jeremy,
I used to use a commercial stop bath, then I switched to white vinegar
and water. Now I just use water. As Dan said, just agitate the print
in the plain water a little longer. I switched to plain water for a
stop bath, because on sheet film, I was always getting these little tiny
Lisa Reddig writes:
Does anyone know anywhere online I can learn about the rules of editioning
and pricing prints?
A good overview of how it works in printmaking is at
http://www.artline.com/associations/ifpda/text/whatisprint.html
in the last section called Numbering and Other
Jeremy,
just wondering if anyone has tried using vinegar as a stop bath...
I've been using vinegar everytime time I travel and have to do
film processing in hotel bathrooms *g*
It works fine at a low cost.
Erich
Water alone can also be used as stop bath, just keep it in there for twice
as long, and I like to agitate a little more.(I hate the smell of indicator
stop bath!)
-Dan
-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf
Jeremy,
just wondering if anyone has tried using vinegar as a stop bath...
I've been using vinegar everytime time I travel and have to do
film processing in hotel bathrooms *g*
It works fine at a low cost.
Erich
Adding some of the White stuff to water will give you a stop bath.
(Don't use the Grape vinegar, though it might make an interesting toner...)
andy
-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of Jeremy Siemens
Hi everyone,
While we're still talking about darkroom chemistry...
just wondering if anyone has tried using vinegar as a
stop bath in the darkroom. Obviously there would be
no colour change when the pH gets too high, but I
don't process large volumes of prints at any given
time so I can't see
Message: 10
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 23:56:57 -0500
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] agfa grade 1 craziness
Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
I bought a package of AGFA grade 1 RC
Hello
Does anyone know anywhere online I can learn about the rules of editioning
and pricing prints?
Thanks
lisa
**
Olly Olly Oxen Free
**
ugh. i just looked at the negatives i made and realized that they have the
AGFA watermark on the back like you said. that stinks.
Hi Gregg,
You can change that setting to plain text, which is what I have, but it
doesn't always help. I get this markup constantly, so changing the setting
won't get rid of all of it. (Someone who lives in this house told me that a
message
that was created as multipart/alternative gets
But most important, you need to wash longer, since the fiber paper is
soaked with the chemicals.
Guy
Or use hypo-clearing agent.
Rosanne
- Original Message -
From: Colin Talcroft ctalcr...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] 6 x 8 film?
Slightly off-topic, but I was hoping someone might be
able to tell me if there ever was (or still
In a message dated 12/20/01 7:20:14 AM, guy.glori...@sympatico.ca writes:
But most important, you need to wash longer, since the fiber paper is
soaked with the chemicals.
What you will find on drying is that the paper is not flat and that it
has shrunk by about 1-3%. If you have access to a
b2myo...@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 12/20/01 1:48:13 AM, rheat...@slonet.org writes:
You develop paper (not RC)
longer in the developer (1-3min) to get a full exposure.
and fix for longer depending upon the fixer you are using.
leezy
But most important, you need to wash
Agfa paper has a logo imprinted on the back. I don't think Ilford does.
Grade 1 should work fine for paper negs. You develop paper (not RC)
longer in the developer (1-3min) to get a full exposure. If it looks too
dense or too contrasty in the soup under safelight you may pull it out
sooner but
I just realized that one of my packages of RC paper is actually not RC -
it's fiber! I can't return it because the photo store doesn't allow returns
on paper. Can I use this for printing in the same way that I use RC paper?
I'm guessing I can't use it for paper negatives. Looking at the Ilford
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