Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: no power out of duplexer SOLVED with more questions
Depending on the frequency seperation it sounds like it is in the ball park. Maybe even not enough loss. Quick in the head math short cut is that 1 db is about 25%. That would give you 75 watts out of the duplexer for 100 watts in. If it is 3 db, that is half power or 50 watts out for 100 in. Any loss between the two numbers could be correct. Again depending on the frequency seperation and isolation in DB, you can look for 1/2 to 1 DB per cavity. That is for each side. So 3 cans per side would be from 1.5 db to 3 db loss in the transmitt side and the same for the receive side. - Original Message From: W3ML w...@arrl.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, September 6, 2010 10:54:37 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: no power out of duplexer SOLVED with more questions Thanks Joe. We did most of those and then found the problem. The T-connector center pin had broken off when we apparently hooked up some test equipment and did not notice it. I still have one question though. Is it normal to have 100 watts coming out of radio and only 70 watts coming out of duplexer? Wacom 6 can type duplexer. That seems to be quite a loss. Again I appreciate all the help. 73 John, W3ML
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexers
Guess that I should answer it then. I have had a 4 can Wacom 220 mhz duplexer in a 6 foot by 6 foot building for around 20 years and it still works. Also in the same building is a Phelps Dodge 6 can 146 mhz duplexer that has been there for about 35 years. This is in the middle of North Carolina where it gets up to around 100 in the summer and around 15 deg in the winter. The building only has a couple of repeaters in it and is not heated or cooled. Made out of cinder blocks. From: ka9qjg ka9...@wowway.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, August 31, 2010 1:42:32 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexers Wow this must of Really been a Dumb question , No one answered it Don KA9QJG From:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ka9qjg Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 9:07 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexers Since We are on the Topic of Duplexers, And some claim there is no such thing as a Dumb Question but at the Risk of Asking one I will take a chance , I have the Wacom 4 can on My 220 System, The Question I have in a non controlled environment such as No Heat or Air Will the Duplexer have any problems inside with Condensation from Heating up in use and Cooling down Thanks Don KA9QJG
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Wouxun Radio
Just about anything around $ 100 or less is a 'throw-away' when it quits on you if you can not fix it yourself. It will often cost that much for any repair. A few years back a local called about getting the dial lights replaced on a transceiver and that was around $ 50 not counting the shipping. Several in the local club have the dual band (144/440) versions and like them. Only negative thing I have seen is that while you are transmitting on one band, you can not receive on the other band at the same time. They do say to get the softwear programming and cable to make it easy. From: James Lee moto_t...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 7:47:52 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Wouxun Radio I had one in my hands last week at a Hamfest in Gainsville, Texas. They are quite impressive. I have a strong hunch they are throw-away in nature when they die. Time will tell. If I needed a dual bander for ham use, I would give one a try. Jim WB4GWX/AAV6UX
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Licensing Exam Info
Yep, blew the numbers. 97 for hams and 95 for the other services. That is what I get for not paying attention. Around 1972 I took the comercial class exam. I thought I knew enough for the second class at that time and it cost $ 1.00 more for the first class. Decided that for only $ 1 as I had to drive about 40 miles to the exam place I would try it just to see. I did manage to get the first class. Never used it, but had it just incase I needed it. NOw they have a general type license and it is not really needed for much frow what I have been told. At that time there were no exect qustions and answers, just typical ones. About that same time I took the technician ham test and passed it. I was too lazy to work on the code and not that interisted in the low bands either. About 20 years later I was working a job that gave me lots of free time if nothing broke so I got some tapes and started on the code again. Passed the Advanced test (at that time the only differance in the general and tech was the code speed so when a tech passed the 13 wpm he was automatically a general). Took about another year to get the code speed up to 20 wpm. I never did get a chance to study the written test but looked over the questions one time. Anyway passed it the first time. From: chuck wolf cwolf...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, July 25, 2010 8:47:00 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Licensing Exam Info 2. Part 95 is not the Amateur part. It is Part 97. FCC Part 95 is for Personal Radio Services (GMRS, FRS, Radio Control Radio Services, Citizens Band, etc.) http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2009-title47-vol5/pdf/CFR-2009-title47-vol5-part95.pdf FCC Part 97 is for Amateur Radio Services.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Licensing Exam Info
How much do you know about electronics and radio in general ? If to some extent , the exam is no problem. Even less if you have a good memory. There are 3 classes now. The Technician, General. and Extra. For each one there is a pool of about 300 questions and answers . That is the exect questions and answers for the test. To take the test you have to go to where there are 3 or more qulaified examiners. Some ham clubs give the test every so often and many times at hamfests (flea markets for hams). Each class requires about 30 to 50 questions to be answered. they are all multichoice. I think it is 70% for a passing grade. When applying for the test , apply for all 3 classes.. It is usually all the same price. If you pass the first one, you can take the next higher test. There is no code (CW) test now. Somewhere around $ 15 for the test now. After you are licened , it is good for 10 years and does not cost anything to renew it. That $ 80 is way too much. You can buy books with the questions and answers or download them from places on the internet. Go to www.qrz.com and look for the prictce test. Give it a try and see how well you do. I have been a ham for over 35 years and can usually hit about 90% on the practice test on QRZ.com in about 10 minuits for each of the 3 tests. I do that from time to time when I hear how hard some say the test is. If you want to learn something about ham radio, go to arrl.org and get one of the handbooks. Think they are around $ 50 now. You can go to e-bay and get some that are a few years old for only a few dollars. Also at arrl.org look at the amateur rules. Part 95 of the FCC rules. Ham radio rules usually differ from comercial rules in that mostly the ham rules state what you can not do instead of what you can do for many parts. If you have your comercial license, the test is similar and should be no problem. From: La Rue Communications laruec...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 12:43:34 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Licensing Exam Info Good Morning All - I am looking to take my Licensing exam and get my HAM / Radio Operator's license. I was told there was one online for about $80.00 but I don't have the first clue where to look. Is it somewhere on the ARRL web page, or somewhere else I need to be looking? Also - how long are the licenses good for? If you point me in the right direction - I can handle it from there. :-) Thanks! John Hymes La Rue Communications 10 S. Aurora Street Stockton, CA 95202 http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
Re: [Repeater-Builder] carrier operated relay
You may want to look this over. It only costs $ 25 and may do what you want and also has a cw identifier in it if needed. http://www.hamgadgets.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=108 From: manny recede mrj12...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 8:28:37 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] carrier operated relay Greetings, Can anybody help me to make a makeshift repeater, I need a schematic diagram for carrier operated relay or COR for two radio transceivers to be converted into a repeater. Thanx to anyone who can help on this. Manny , ( mrj12...@yahoo.com )
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Astron RS50 regulator board
That is the way I see it most of the time. If I did want to do anything, I would just change the capacitors. I have had an Astron 50 amp supply on for probably 15 or more years and an Elenco 25 amp supply on for about 30 years. The only times they have been off was when I moved or disconnected during thunder storms. They have even been left on during many of the thunder storms. From: Lee Pennington localjunkpedd...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sat, June 5, 2010 12:28:25 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Astron RS50 regulator board John, If it ain't broke don't fix it I have a 20 year old RM-50M that powers just about every thing in my shop. Only one issue, about 5 years ago while running on generator power, during Hurricane Wilma, an MOV smoked on the AC line. other than that, It's been the heat of my whole operation continuously, 24/7. for almost 20 years...my nickel's worth de Lee
Re: [Repeater-Builder] CTCSS Encoder/Decoder
I would look for something else. About 30 years ago I used some for a DTMF decoder for an autopatch on a repeater. They were stable enough for that. There was a problem with the input amplitude to them. Seems that very small changes in the input voltage of the tone comming to them would make a differance as to a good decode or not. - Original Message From: James ka2...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, May 6, 2010 10:35:36 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] CTCSS Encoder/Decoder Hi Guys, We have been experimenting with building CTCSS Units using the 567 Tone Chip and good components, i.e. Caps, multi turn pots etc. The stability is not good in my opinion. We will set it to 107.2 and the next time you check it is off enough to where it won't decode until it is re-tuned slightly. I am wondering what your experiences may have been with this CTCSS Chip. Many articles say they work well with the addition of a stable voltage regulator, so we added a five volt regulator, no difference in stability. Any comments and experiences with this and other chips would be appreciated. The availability of CTCSS Chips seems limited.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: if you have a commercial licenses check it on the fcc site
It was not worth much around 1971 or 72 when I passed the first class. I was about 21 at the time. I had never seen a TV transmitter and only got to look into a 1000 watt AM station control room and could see the tubes through a glass window. Passed it the first time. I only wanted the second class, but it only cost $ 1.00 more to take the first class From: Mike Wehr weh...@comcast.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, March 30, 2010 9:01:03 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: if you have a commercial licenses check it on the fcc site I grandfathered in when then junked the 1st Class license. :-( After searching the FCC site I noticed that they have my date totally screwed up. Anyone know if their database got trashed at some time? GROL today is a simple, 'we give you the questions, we give you the answers... just remember the right one'. Not worth too much.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RG designations
From: Larry Horlick llhorl...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, March 8, 2010 8:49:32 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] RG designations Anyone want to take a stab at this, or point me to a good primer on this topic? The datasheet for Belden 88240 gives it an RG58A/U designation even though it OD is .159. Most RG-58s are .195. I have always thought that even though the materials may differ at least the cable sizes and connector compatability were consistent within an RG type...amongst reputable manufacturers, anyway. Such appears not to be the case. What's the scoop? lh __._,_The .___ The real meaning of RG went out years ago. Now it is only RG type and that can mean almost anything. Usually the diameter will be close enough the coax fittings will work. That is about all the RG is good for now. Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Stock Power Supplies
--- On Sun, 2/28/10, Larry Horlick llhorl...@gmail.com wrote: From: Larry Horlick llhorl...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Stock Power Supplies To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 28, 2010, 7:26 PM What's the rationale behind the LMR ban? Leakage? The LMR type coax is fine for a while. Then the braid and foil start rubbing against each other and you get noise in the receiver and maybe other close in receivers.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Stock Power Supplies
--- On Sun, 2/28/10, Larry Horlick llhorl...@gmail.com wrote: From: Larry Horlick llhorl...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor Stock Power Supplies To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 28, 2010, 9:49 PM Andrew has a coaxial cable similar (remarkably similar) to LMR, called CNT. I guess the same cautions apply to this product, too? lh There are several makes of similar cable. They all hae a foil shield and then a braid. I think it was Belden 9913 and a few other numbers that came out first. I use Davis BuryFlex for my ham station. It is very good cable, but just not for duplex operations. I have seen a few repeaters using similar cable and they have worked fine for several years. I have also seen a couple of repeaters that worked fine for a short time and then noise started. Replace the cable with hardline and the noise stopped. The cable would still be fine for use at home with a transceiver, just not for duplex service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] pre-amp placement
--- On Wed, 11/25/09, W3ML w...@arrl.net wrote: From: W3ML w...@arrl.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] pre-amp placement To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, November 25, 2009, 10:46 PM Hi, I have now read two different things about where to put the pre-amp. One says before the Bandpass and one after. What I have now is the 6 can duplexer is hooked to the bandpass and then on the other side the pre-amp is connected and then a cable goes from preamp to radio. The other article I read this past week says the preamp should go between the cans and the bandpass. Which is right? Or does it matter? 73 John As always it is one of the it depends answer. You want the preamp as close to the antenna as you can get it. This sets the noise figure or in simple terms the minimal signal you can detect. Idealy it should be right at the antenna. This is not possiable with a repeater and single antenna so you want it right after the duplexer going to the receiver. Sometimes if you are in an area with lots of transmitters that are overloading the receiver or causing other problems (which is probably your case or you would not need the banpass cavity) then the preamp goes between the banpass cavity and the receiver. Most preamps do not have very much selectivity and many duplexers don't either to signals outside the tuned frequencies. This lets the preamp amplify many undesired signals and can cause all kinds of problems. If your repeater is located very far away from other transmitters this is not usaully a problem. If there are several transmitters near by then you may have a problem without a band pass filter.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coiling excess coax.
--- On Tue, 11/10/09, ab6li johnever...@sbcglobal.net wrote: From: ab6li johnever...@sbcglobal.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Coiling excess coax. To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 1:39 AM Hello to the group. I would like to gather some opinions on coiling excess coax as sometimes found when interconnecting cables may be a bit too long for an application. Good idea? Bad idea? I know that the excess length would add some loss and that would be undesireable but in some cases service loops need to be a bit longer than one would like in a coax jumper so rolling it up seems to be a natural way to cleanly dress the cables. Comments? John The old it depends answer. If only a few feet (say under 10 or maybe 20 if used below 30 mhz) then coil it up in a big loop. You may want to move the shack around. I would say it depends on how much loss you want to take. Mostly depends on how much aditional loss you want to take. Unless you are into moon bounce or other very weak signals, then you could probably take about a half of a db loss in the excess coax and never notice it. Sometime just add in about 50 feet of rg-8 and see if you notice any differace.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Maybe a strange question...
--- On Thu, 10/15/09, Randy Ross rr...@librtynet.com wrote: From: Randy Ross rr...@librtynet.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Maybe a strange question... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, October 15, 2009, 9:04 PM Our repeater is coordinated on a given two meter frequency. Due to terrain and other factors, we were forced to agree to some interference from a neighboring repeater, on the same frequency. The neighboring repeater is located on a peak roughly 100 miles away from us, and roughly 1800 feet higher in elevation. The repeater owner claims an ERP of 55 watts from an omni, however, I can consistently hear that repeater on my base at my QTH with an s-1 to s-3. I am transmitting 50w, 2dB loss in connectors, about 1.25 dB loss in feedline and about +6.5 dBi in antenna gain. So, I figure my ERP should be about 100 watts (+3dB = double in power, right). My antenna height is about 35 feet. So, as a newbie, I am assuming that if I can hear him at s-3, and he is transmitting 55w ERP, where my ERP is 100w, I should be able to program the radio with the proper offset and PL tone and get into the repeater. Is this a correct assumption? After all, if I can consistently hear him, the path is line of sight, right? Due to the difference in altitude, this would make sense. If all else is the same, I should be able to bring the repeater up. Or, is this repeater putting out much more than 55w ERP? Unless you have a very good receiver and the repeater does not, if you can hear a repeater and your transmitter is running the same or more power, you should be able to bring it up. You normally assume that the repeater is using the same antenna for receiving and transmitting and the loss in the feedline and duplexer is the same for both.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Question on portable repeaters
--- On Wed, 10/7/09, Juan Tellez xe...@grupocimsa.com wrote: From: Juan Tellez xe...@grupocimsa.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Question on portable repeaters To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 9:43 PM Maybe the gentleman wants a VHF portable repeater for commercial channels, so the offset will be a lot more than 600KHz……? JT Don't even try doing a portable repeater on 2 meters. Do it on 440 MHz or 900 Mhz. -- Original Message -- Received: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 04:15:29 PM PDT From: Peter Dakota Summerhawk commcon...@gmail.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Question on portable repeaters Morning, We are looking at building a portable repeater for special even use. This will be mobile mounted and 2M. My questions is this: If we are using two radios (one for TX one for RX) then what does the antenna separation have to be for all of this to work? Planning on mounting this in a SUV so roof space can be adjusted if need be. Thanks Peter Dakota Summerhawk Laramie County ARES The 2M is usually taken to be the 2 meter ham band around 146 mhz. Also the ARES is a ham shortcut.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Radio for repeater use Response to Tom's comments
--- On Tue, 10/6/09, W3ML w...@arrl.net wrote: From: W3ML w...@arrl.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Radio for repeater use Response to Tom's comments To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 5:36 PM Well Chuck, there will be no new As I have said before being a ham for 30 years now has taught me nothing about the maintenance of a repeater. I have built rigs before and trouble shot many a good HF radio, and now I am actually somewhat having fun playing with this thing. I have done more reading on repeaters than I have at my regular job and that is the Teaching of English Literature. When getting into the ham radio repeater business, have a good hammer ready. Either hit the repeater, the users or just hit yourself in the head. I have been messing with the repeaters for over 30 years and have felt like doing all three.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cleaning coax corrosion
--- On Mon, 10/5/09, John johnk.mch...@att.net wrote: From: John johnk.mch...@att.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Cleaning coax corrosion To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, October 5, 2009, 3:59 PM Hi, I need to replace a PL-259 on the end of a piece of RG-8U at the antenna end. The coax shielding is severely corroded, I can cut back aways and still reach but I need to clean the shielding so I can solder on a new connector. Any suggestion to do this. This is on the roof of a building and the coax is routed around the rampart to the antenna mount and almost impossible to replace. Before the cable cops jump on me it's not for repeater service. Thanks, John -- John Mc Hugh, K4AG Coordinator for Amateur Radio National Hurricane Center, WX4NHC Home page:- http://www.wx4nhc.org There is no good way to clean the coax braid. You need to replace the whole length of coax. Most likely water has gotten into the cable and wicked way back into the cable.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diplex antenna installation using coaxial cable for 10M and 6 M
--- On Fri, 9/11/09, Steven Schultz steven.schult...@gmail.com wrote: From: Steven Schultz steven.schult...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diplex antenna installation using coaxial cable for 10M and 6 M To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, September 11, 2009, 5:29 PM Thanks Mark and John for your response. I can appreciate using the Comet CF-360B duplexer as a quick solution, John. Thanks. Mark, I can also see the matching bandwidth being better with shorter transmission line. But my concern is that 1/4 wavelength transmission line sections seem to be very inferior to the 1/2 wavelength transmission in achieving a good match for both antennas at their respective resonances. I will review my simulations and see if match bandwidth is adversely affected by the 1/2 wavelength transmission line. I will try to include cable properties. I wanted to know if I was way off base in my look at things and you guys have helped. Steve WB8WGY YOu have to remember that a 1/4 wave will 'reverse' the impedance and the 1/2 wave will just repeat. I have not really looked at your system, but I think it is the 1/4 wavelengths in coax that isolate the two antennas.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense?
--- On Tue, 9/1/09, tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net wrote: From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna SWR = Desense? To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 5:29 PM Hi Jeff, I'll try a different antenna... perhaps that's it. Horizontal isolation possibly not enough, but 'only' running 30 watts out, the repeater is a quantar, all leads are RG214, so didn't figure that would be it... I've seen a lot of installations with antennas pretty close to the system. Is that 214 double shielded ? I have seen some marked 214 that was not double shielded. Also you almost have a 2:1 swr. Seems way too high to me.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Nearby Repeaters
--- On Sun, 8/30/09, WA3GIN wa3...@comcast.net wrote: From: WA3GIN wa3...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Nearby Repeaters To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 10:37 PM 4 miles *** If I understand it correctly you have 2 repeaters 15 khz apart seperated by only 4 miles. This is usually way too close. The SERA co-ordiantors usually recommend a 75 mile spacing of repeaters this close together and 25 miles with 20 khz spacing.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Notch Cavities + 600KHz Repeater = Work?
--- On Mon, 8/10/09, tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net wrote: From: tahrens301 tahr...@swtexas.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Notch Cavities + 600KHz Repeater = Work? To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 1:21 PM Hi Dcflu7x, It's a DB products SP-1894. Can't get any info on it from anywhere. Each of the 8 cans have the approx dimensions of 5 x 21. A single screw-type shaft in the center, and one SO-239 sticking out of the top of the can. No variable caps, or anything else on the cans. Each can has an RG-9 jumper between each 'T'. The male portion of the 'T' screws down into the can. The 4 cans on the 147.7 side are strictly 4 cans in series. The 4 cans on the 147.1 side also have an additional 'T' between cans, and from that dangles a short stub. The stubs actually pull up the high side of the notch. Without them, the cans exhibit high loss at 600khz above the notch. With them, the total loss is about 2 - 2.5dB. The duplexer was originally in the 166 range, then pulled down to the 154 range, which was what they were set for when I got them. Did you change the coax lengths to match the change in frequency ?
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Closed Repeaters
--- On Sun, 7/26/09, Steve petn...@sbcglobal.net wrote: From: Steve petn...@sbcglobal.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Closed Repeaters To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, July 26, 2009, 10:35 PM This is a bit of another example where people want to extend their Constitutional Rights beyond what was intended. If we think any closed repeater system should be open to all because it uses a shared resource (the frequencies), then where do we stop? Does that mean that anyone gets to ride in my vehicle for free because I am driving on a public road, or Interstate Highway? A closed repeater is taking up space. If you want to go the highway route, look at it in another way. YOu are on two lane interstate and a friend comes along side of you . Both of you decide to stop in the middle of the road to talk. You are in your own car, but stopping the whole highway. HOw would you like it if when your repeater was not being used, someone else put a repeater on the air, maybe even using a digital mode that you can not decode by ear ? In lots of areas, there are no open 2 meter repeater pairs. Suspose all repeater owners decide to go closed and not let any new hams on the system.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Closed Repeaters
--- On Mon, 7/27/09, Don Kupferschmidt d...@httpd.org wrote: From: Don Kupferschmidt d...@httpd.org Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Closed Repeaters To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, July 27, 2009, 8:52 PM I've been watching this post for a number of days now. Seems that there are a lot of hams who have at lot of opinions to share. I'm going to throw out a question to all: Has anyone checked with in individual state coordinating associations about this matter when applying for or renewing their coordination? I live in Southeastern Wisconsin, just north and west of Milwaukee. I could be wrong about this, but I seem to remember a PL frequency band plan by region in the state that is recommended by the Wisconsin Association of Repeaters, who is the coordination body for the state. As there are many hams who are replying to this thread in the CONUS, has anyone checked to see if their individual coordination body has either recommended or mandated PL/DPL (or other regulated means) to keep a system that has been coordinated closed (or open)? Any guidelines that you wish to share with the group? I'd be interested in hearing the results. 73, Don, KD9PT You can check out what the SERA has to say for many of the southern states here: http://www.sera.org/ They recommend using a subaudio tone and discourage closed repeaters. Our repeater has always had the policy for over 35 years that you should suppport one repeater, but have basic access to all. It was not a requirement that you had to support any repeater. A few years ago they tried to make it a requirement that repeaters had to have a subaudio tone. Many repeater owners sent out a bunch of email and got that requirement reversed. While the repeater I help keep up had a subaudio tone on it because at one time there was a paging system that was keying up lots of repeaters in the state, I sent email not to make the tone a requirement.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: New Transmitting Antenna SWR Question
--- On Sun, 5/24/09, agrimm0034 agrimm0...@yahoo.com wrote: From: agrimm0034 agrimm0...@yahoo.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: New Transmitting Antenna SWR Question To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, May 24, 2009, 11:36 AM It came with some cutting charts to cut the 3 inside elements inside of a plastic tube. I cut those and checked the SWR with 10 ft piece of RG-58 25 watts input and it read 1.5-1. Assumed everything was okay. Cable was put on a dummy load and cable tested great with no shortages and very low loss. 3-4 watts from 40 watt input. After testing several times the more power that was put into the feedline the higher the SWR was. The lower power I put in the lower the SWR was. My tower that it is on is not grounded and the antenna calls for DC ground for lightning protection so I might need to ground the antenna. Anyone think that will help SWR any? I have not been following the whole thread,but it seems that something is wrong with your meter. I guess that you are using about 50 feet or more of the lmr400. It has a loss of over 2 db (almost 3 db) per 100 feet. That is a loss of 1 db for 50 feet which should give you around a 10 watt loss or more with 40 watts input. Many inexpensive meters (and some expensive ones) will show lower swr at lower power. This is a false reading due to the way the detecting diodes work. What kind of meter are you using ? When you used the rg58 to test the antenna, it has too much loss at 450 mhz to make a good swr measurment. I think if it shows the swr to be 1.5 it will really be over 2 at the antenna due to the loss in the coax. Grounding a 40 foot will have no effect on the swr of an antenna mounted to it. Atleast if it is anywhere near the top. It should be grounded for lightning protection if possiable. Is the antenna at the very top of the tower or is it side mounted ? If side mounted, this could have some effect on the swr.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] One way transmitting question
--- On Fri, 5/22/09, Christopher Hodgdon chris.hodg...@kaufman-ares.org wrote: From: Christopher Hodgdon chris.hodg...@kaufman-ares.org Subject: [Repeater-Builder] One way transmitting question To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, May 22, 2009, 6:43 PM Ok, I have a question that has been bothering me over the last few days. I had mentioned that we wanted to use our repeater to send out a set of tones to activate fire style pager (this was some time ago) and people said we should not do it for one reason or another. One of those reasons was that it might be considered a one way broadcast and not legal under FCC rules for amateur radio. That being said, I know that some people have come on here and asked about using a weather radio on their repeater system, etc. Having it setup to send out alerts over the repeater when they come in. Would this not also be considered a 1 way broadcast for reception by general public, per-say. How can you legally include a weather alert radio in a repeater setup and have it function as required? From the rules at ARRL.org (b) In addition to one-way transmissions specifically authorized elsewhere in this Part, an amateur station may transmit the following types of one-way communications: (1) Brief transmissions necessary to make adjustments to the station; (2) Brief transmissions necessary to establishing two-way communications with other stations; (3) Telecommand; (4) Transmissions necessary to providing emergency communications; (5) Transmissions necessary to assisting persons learning, or improving proficiency in, the international Morse code; (6) Transmissions necessary to disseminate information bulletins; (7) Transmissions of telemetry. ... Tones for the activation of pagers are Telecommand and information bulletins. The WX is either emergency or information bulletins. Also the WX retransmission is speciffically addressed as: (e) No station shall retransmit programs or signals emanating from any type of radio station other than an amateur station, except propagation and weather forecast information intended for use by the general public and originated from United States Government stations, and communications, including incidental music, originating on United States Government frequencies between a manned spacecraft and its associated Earth stati
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help with power supply
--- On Wed, 5/20/09, Charles Lowery clow...@va.net wrote: From: Charles Lowery clow...@va.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Help with power supply To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, May 20, 2009, 1:27 PM I purchased a Uniden 28 volt power supply today on ebay. It lookes like the Astron LSRM-25A or 35A both front and back (I assume Astron made it). With out seeing it I assume it works OK (cost $2.00 + shipping). Has anyone converted one of these to 12 volts? I have no schematics for it and can not find one on the net. If converted what would be the available current? Charles, NM4V It is usually easy to make a 28 volt suply put out 12 volts if it has the 723 voltage regulator in it. The problem is unless you can change the transformer wiring or whole transformer to put out about half the origional voltage you can only draw about 1/4 the origional current and even at that it will not be very efficiant. You want to put about 3 to 5 volts more into the pass transistors than the output voltage. If you just adjust the resistor values the transistors will have to dissiapate much more heat. Thank of it as you orgionally will have about 32 to 36 volts going to the transistors. That is 4 to 8 volts you have to drop. At 10 amps this is 40 to 80 watts. If you do not lower this voltage and go to 12 volts output then you dissipate about 200 to 240 watts. This will probably be much more than the transistor/heatsink combination can dissipate.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] desense question
--- On Sat, 5/2/09, va...@securenet.net va...@securenet.net wrote: From: va...@securenet.net va...@securenet.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] desense question To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, May 2, 2009, 7:44 PM Running the hamtronics REP-200 with the optional 15 watt PA in it. After all the filtering, I get a whopping 8 watts out. I put a small strip amp inline with the TX port of the repeater, before the filtering, and it caused desense. Maybe tossing spurs - I have no way to test. Location is also not great for the moment, and the antenna is very temporary. A Diamond x500 connected with COAX (please dont shoot me). The club antenna will be down off the old tower (8 bay sinclair) and I do have the heliax for it. The amp is a UHF PA off a mobile rig, and I needed about 50 feet of RG58U to attenuate the signal from the repeater into the amp module. Is this my problem? Lack of shielding causing desense? When I put everything back to normal, my test station was solid copy. What is my best option to get a little more oomph on the output with out tossing megabucks at it? Thanks Ian VA2IR It is probably that 50 feet of rg-58. I have seen desense with as little as 6 feet of rg8 going from a transmitter to the duplexer. You may be able to bypass the amp section of the Hamtronics or just build an atuenuator in a shielded box out of resistors. Guess that you may be able to wrap the rg58 in some tinfoil and see if that helps with the desense. Not a very good longterm solution, but a way to run a check.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MASTR II PTT
You probably overlooked the simple thing. The PTT line is DC and once the SCR fires it will latch. If you had AC then the voltage goes to zero and the SCR unlatches. --- On Fri, 4/17/09, Vernon Densler m...@highwayusa.com wrote: From: Vernon Densler m...@highwayusa.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MASTR II PTT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, April 17, 2009, 4:35 PM I got a Solid State Relay and the com port will trigger it. (same thing I use to control my Christmas lights from my computer). However for some reason the PTT won’t drop when the SSR shuts off. I know there is some voltage bleed on them but I can’t figure out why it would stay grounded afterwards. Any suggestions on that one?
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Remote Receiver
--- On Wed, 4/15/09, John Transue jtran...@cox.net wrote: From: John Transue jtran...@cox.net Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Remote Receiver To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 1:45 PM Lance, Mark, Cort, Butch, Bob, Chris, and others, Thanks for the good advice and quick response. I will follow up on the suggestions, and get an idea of the cost. It hadn't occurred to me that I would need a voter. With only this one remote receiver, I thought I could just rely on the controller (ACC RC-850) to accept the audio in accordance with the -850 priorities. Is this not suitable? It can be used for a quick and dirty voter. One problem is when both receivers are picking up the signal and the primary receiver is not as full quietning as the other receiver. You get a lot of noise from that receiver where it would be clear audio from the second receiver. This can be helped by setting the squelch tighter or by using differant subaudio tones for the differant receivers.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Asntenna Painting
--- On Mon, 3/23/09, chris Inos chris_i...@yahoo.com wrote: From: chris Inos chris_i...@yahoo.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Asntenna Painting To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, March 23, 2009, 7:59 PM I am seeking advise ...but if I can be pointed to the right direction, I will be most appreciative. This summer, I plan to take down my Cellwave Station Master (repeater antenna) for service, maintenance or painting. Over the years, moss and algae set in and the bright white fiberglass finish is beginning to disappear. I seek advise on the following: 1. What cleaning agent would be best to take down foreign objects in the antenna 2. What paint if any...or preparation therof before application is neglegible in the optimum performance of this antenna. This antenna has served us well over the years. 3. Other recommendation. thanks chris Here is a file I picked up several years ago. Antenna Painting Instructions The following is courtesy Celwave This is what I received when I asked them for a recommendation of what to use in refinishing my 18 year old PD455 Celwave receives requests for advice about refinishing weathered antenna radomes or changing the radome color for aesthetic reasons. We do not take a position on any manufacturer's paint. However, Sherwin-Williams seems to make a product, which should be compatible with radomes and not interfere with the antenna's electrical performance. The following suggestions are not a substitute for detailed instructions and mix ratios provided by the paint manufacturer. RADOME MATERIAL (Standard Color) CELWAVE PRODUCT LINE 1. Spun Epoxy Fiberglass (Blue) Penetrator Antennas (AxR, BxR Series) 2. Polyester Impregnated Fiberglass (White) Stationmaster Antennas (PDxx Omni Series.) 3. Polyester Impregnated Fiberglass (Grey) FR CELlite Panel Antennas (AP18, 19 Series) 4. ASA (Grey) FR CELlite Panel Antennas (AP90 Series) 5. AES/ABS (White or Grey) US Panel Antennas (Other APxx Models) 6. Gel Coated Fiberglass Tubing (White) Marine Antennas (Cel-1, 3 etc.) Notes: FOR RADOME MATERIAL USE THIS FINISH #1, #2, #3 Primer and Top Coat #4, #5 Primer may be required (Top Coat retention may be tested with adhesive tape after paint dries) #6 Requires Pre-Treat (Acid Etch) to remove gloss, then Primer and Top Coat SHERWIN-WILLIAMS PRODUCTS: Etch P60G2 Wash Primer Primer D61H75 Polane 2.8 Plus Spray Fil Top Coat Polane Type HS 2.8 Plus Polyurethane SURFACE PREPARATION: Removal of surface contamination is normally accomplished by using an alcohol solvent, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, or butanol. A ten percent solution of methyl ethyl ketone in water can also be used whenever stubborn oil or grease is encountered. APPLICATION PROCEDURES: Painting to be done indoors, as the uncured product is sensitive to moisture. Apply one coat of Polane 2.8 Plus Spray Fil D61H75 Primer. It is designed to fill and/or hide profile and surface imperfections on metal castings, structural foam, plastic and wood. Apply one coat of Polane HS 2.8 Plus Polyurethane Enamel Monochromatic Intermix Color System F63 Series. FOR FURTHER S-W PRODUCT INFORMATION CONTACT: Ralph Stadalman - Product Finishing Representative The Sherwin-Williams Company Chemical Coating Facility 3165 Tucker Road Bensalem, PA 19020 Voice = (215) 638-0104 Fax = (215) 638-1008 Rev: #5 10/05/98 DLS File: PAINT.doc End
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Quieting duplex noise from a tower
--- On Thu, 3/12/09, neal Newman cozy...@yahoo.com wrote: From: neal Newman cozy...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Quieting duplex noise from a tower To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, March 12, 2009, 4:55 PM Samething here in NJ. the Club put all new Db Antennas On the 100 foot tower. New Feedline. still had the noise...new grounding system. all sections bonded. still Noise. changed the guy cables to Phillystrand. Problem went away I have a repeater on a 100 ft tower with guys. Found the ends near the ground were wrapped through the anchor holes and had about 2 feet of free ends after the clamping bolts. When the wind would blow the free ends against the guy wires all kind of noise would be generated. Cut the wires so they could not rub against each other and the noise quit.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] re: Decibel folded dipole
--- On Sun, 2/8/09, mike m...@verizon.net wrote: From: mike m...@verizon.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] re: Decibel folded dipole To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 7:15 AM Hi Thanks for the replies on this topic. I measured the dipole loop and came up with 13 1/2 inches. The measurement was taken from one side of the loop from the top of the loop to end just were just goes into the mounting backet. I need the lower half of UHF at 423mhz for receive only. Thanks Mike I have seen two differant dipole arays that had a low swr out of the band but would not work very well. I am not sure if the phasing is causing the signal to go way up in the air or just cancle out each other. About like the time I used the wrong 1/4 wave multiplier to phase two beams. Either antenna would work well by its self , but when hooked together I could not hardly get a signal out of my yard.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Hamtronics Helical Resonator Preamp or Advanced Research Preamp
--- On Wed, 2/4/09, Ralph S. Turk w7...@comcast.net wrote:
From: Ralph S. Turk w7...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Hamtronics Helical Resonator Preamp or
Advanced Research Preamp
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2009, 9:11 PM
#yiv258189647 p {margin:0;}
Hi Bob
All duplexers have very poor out of band attenuation. The extra cavity is to
narrow the bandwidth.
Cavity should have 2-3db of insertion loss (equates to sharp slopes).
Preamp gain is adjusted by use of a step attenuator. Determine how much attn
is needed to just raise
the limiter by about 10% max. This way you make up for loss of system plus
about 10%. Too much gain will
just lead to overload of the front end of the RX.
Ralph
Most do have the poor out of band rejection. Years ago I was involved with a
repeater that had a 4 cavity 2 meter Wacom duplexer . It had all kinds of
intermod. Must have been 100 transmitters within about a 10 block radius.
Shipped it to Wacom and had them add a pass cavity to each side. Worked fine
then. I think after that they offered one that way in their catalog.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] CD IDer needed for GR300
--- On Sat, 1/31/09, Joe Serocki joesero...@gmail.com wrote: From: Joe Serocki joesero...@gmail.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] CD IDer needed for GR300 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, January 31, 2009, 3:36 PM I have a GR300 with M120/M10 radios. Seems nice, puts out about 25 watts, clean. I need to get an IDer into this repeater. Suggestions on how and where to get it? Thanks Look at this: http://www.hamgadgets.com/product_info.php?products_id=64 Only about $ 20.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 meter noise help!
After all that have you sent the FCC a complaint about him ? They should step in and help you. --- On Wed, 1/28/09, Mike Besemer (WM4B) mwbese...@cox.net wrote: From: Mike Besemer (WM4B) mwbese...@cox.net Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 meter noise help! To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 10:18 PM H… got one of those on our systems too. We even told him to stay off… sent him certified mail, email, and have recordings of control ops telling him to stay off… but he’s still there. Apparently he’s never read Part 97.205(e). I guess we’re all going to have to deal with the occasional problem-child now and then. 73, Mike WM4B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off Topic
--- On Sun, 1/18/09, Ray Brown kb0...@sbcglobal.net wrote: From: Ray Brown kb0...@sbcglobal.net Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off Topic To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009, 6:03 PM - Original Message - From: Mark n9...@ameritech.net The biggest problem I have run into so far is loading Win98 onto an older laptop with only a floppy drive... A friend of mine picked up a laptop with an interchangeable drive bay, and then bought a CD Drive for the laptop. Problem is: Win95 (loaded on the machine) won't recognize the drive, even though it IS seen and recognized by the BIOS. I don't have the Win95 driver disk but I know that there was a version of Win98, SP1, that was on floppies. I also know that you could have played with NT 4.0 on floppies. The only problem with that is that you have to know what you have, and then set it up accordingly. But that could've worked, too. I also have an old laptop that I need to play with (also a bad BIOS battery) that I want to program things with, too. Anyway, I hear you got a solution (bootable Win98) so that should take of ya, too. Good luck. RayKBØSTN Windows 95 came on about 23 floppies and 98 came on about 35 to 38 floppies.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Running or Booting Dos Radio Programs in - with Windows 98se
--- On Sun, 1/18/09, Dennis Wade sacramento.cycl...@gmail.com wrote: From: Dennis Wade sacramento.cycl...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Running or Booting Dos Radio Programs in - with Windows 98se To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009, 8:29 PM OK...thanks Cort. I am left wondering (and confused..nothing unusual there..lol) as to how a 2.4 ghz modern machine can successfully run DOS-based Moto RSS, for one reason the UART/serial port issues. I've tried a modern (i.e. both a 1ghz PIII and a celeron) Win98SE machine booted to DOS as Jim Brown describes to run Moto RSS with no joy. My ancient PI Acer desktop booted to DOS (about 160 mhz) works like a charm. Am I missing something? Thanks for the info. Dennis Old softwear may not run on a fast computer due to timming issues with the serial ports. I have forgotten the exect reason, but is something like the fast computer polls the serial port somany times. The faster computer does this before the new data is present on the serial port. The softwear should have been written so the serial port would interrupt the program as would be the more normal practice. At work we have the same problem with some of the instrumentaion and inverters that are programmed with a laptop.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation)
--- On Sun, 11/23/08, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] MFJ Analyzers (was Need SWR meter recomendation) To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 23, 2008, 4:54 PM The file in question likely requires a later version of Adobe Reader than what is being used by those having problems. Simply download the latest version of Reader, and it will work just fine. I have Adobe Acrobat 7.0, and it opened the file with no errors. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY It opened fine for me. I am using version 9.0 which I think is one of the later ones.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] VHF Engineering
--- On Tue, 11/18/08, Robin Midgett K4IDC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Robin Midgett K4IDC [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] VHF Engineering To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 10:34 AM I have a large format scanner and a full version Adobe Acrobat 8. I can will scan the manual into a searchable .pdf (acrobat) and submit it for posting on the website, then return the documents to you if you like. I have a 220 VHF Engineering repeater, but no documentation...would LOVE to have the info and make it available. I would even offer a deposit against the materials if necessary.. You can download some info on the VHF Engineering repeater here: http://home.earthlink.net/~ku4pt/data/vhf%20engineering/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Stationmaster Pd-220
--- On Sat, 11/15/08, G Shaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: G Shaw [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Stationmaster Pd-220 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, November 15, 2008, 9:51 AM Hi Ryan One other point. You stated that you changed feedline from Heliax or other hardline to RG214. The difference between the two both on xmt and rcv is like NIGHT AND DAY. Assuming about 80 feet of run at VHF you have added well over 3 db of loss, which of course means your system is going to be deaf on rcv and way down on xmt E.R. power in real terms compared to on a good Heliax or other hardline. I would be betting on the feedline degrade but I would certainly run the antenna test to be sure. 73 Glenn N1GBY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ryan Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Stationmaster Pd-220 Hi Group, My club has a the never design Station master Pd-220 bought new in 1998. Antenna is top mounted ( Rohn 45G 50 ft.) The problem were having is the Rx went to crap since recent temperature season changes in PA. What has been noticed is the Rx is a bit deaf (MastrII with ARR Preamp at .050mv sens. and Wp-642 cans) Rpt was ruled out as the Rx levels are the same. and the TX is right on the money. There was a issue with the Hardline from a hungry critter and was replaced last week with RG-214 untill spring than run new hardline. thinking this was the problem Distance users that could get in with 5 watts or less with a 5-9 signal can't key up the Rpt with 50 watts in a 30 mile radius. We Have SWR of 1.8 across the 2meter band. Was 1.3 when checked in years past. Local users ( less than 5 miles line of sight) have noticed RX signal changes. There is not going to be that much differance going from hardline to rg-214 as far as loss. The hard line will loose 1 db and the 214 will loose 3 db. That is a 2 db differance. That is for around 100 feet. It will be somewhat less for the distance actually used. Stations should not have to go from 5 watts to 50 watts for the same signal. One thing to watch is that the 214 could be is single shielded and they are getting desense from it being near the repeater. I would think a swr going above 1.5:1 would indicate an antenna problem , especially if it is taken at the end of the coax and not at the antenna.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length
--- On Wed, 9/24/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] coax length To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 12:14 AM John, Very well then, I guess I need to be shopping for a good load. Any suggestions? Any under an arm and a leg? What do the good loads use for a resistor? I was under the impression that a non inductive resistor was the purest resistance you could get. I have been wrong many times in the past. Thanks, Collin Most of the non inductive resistors are only that way around audio frequencies. At RF they turn very reactive. You need a dummy load that is RF rated. If you don't run too much power for the coax to handle it, 100 feet of rg58 and the cantenna would make a good dummy load for 140 MHz and up. The losser the coax is (but good coax) the better the dummy load it will be. If you have around 400 to 500 feet of rg58 you can just short the end and have a better match than most commercial dummy loads at 140 MHz and up. Some of the good dummy loads are made similar to the Heath-kit but the 'shielding tube' is formed to be a better match to 50 ohms. Sometimes it is not a straight pipe,but it is curved so it will match 50 ohms over a broad range of frequencies.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Volt-Amp (Re: APC UPS Charging Power)
--- On Tue, 9/16/08, Albert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Albert [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Volt-Amp(Re: APC UPS Charging Power) To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2008, 5:12 PM Hopefully you will forgive me hijacking the post but this brings up a question I have had for a long time. What on earth is a volt-amp. My logic would state that is is the same as a watt, which is volts x amps, as you probably well know. So what on earth is is? Confused. Albert If you only have a resistance element then the watt and volt-amp are the same. It should really be VAR or volt-amp reactive. If the load has a very high reactance (capacitive or inductive) , the volt and amp will be out of phase. That is the maximum point on a voltage curve will not be at the same time as the maximum amp point. When you turn on a switch from a battery going through a resistor and put a voltmeter across the capacitor and an amp meter in series, the voltmeter will slowly start to rise and the amp meter will read maximum and then fall. This is a crude example as how the current and voltage get out of phase.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna question
--- On Fri, 9/5/08, Ian Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Ian Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna question To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, September 5, 2008, 9:43 AM Our group has a Sinclair 8 dipole array for UHF. The repeater was recently moved, and has not been behaving as usual. It hears OK, but seems weak on transmit. One of the members went up to the site last night with an MFJ antenna analyser - and he measured SWR at 3:1 - with no real resonant point. Our old UHF beam that was on the same tower and same feedline had an SWR of 1.5:1 measured on the same analyser. Is this method of measurement on an 8 dipole antenna correct? We have not put an SWR bridge on it. I would use a real swr meter/directional watt meter on it. Sometimes those analizers will pick up power from other transmitters that are near it and not give a correct reading.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was Antenna connectors sealing instructions
--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Richard [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was Antenna connectors sealing instructions To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetailproductId=45849-98-41277 Be sure how much tape is in the roll. I have seen some of the newer stuff have about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet. I may be off in the number of feet, but some rolls are shorter. I saw that at a hamfest a while back. I thought the rolls looked smaller.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Low Band Base Antenna Info Wanted
Also I remember there is an optimum angle to droop them to get the main lobe at the horizon-I want to say between 30 and 45 degrees down from horizontal. Affects impedance too if I remember...it's late The ground plane elements are usually drooped about 45 deg to get the impedance to around 50 ohms. It is around 36 ohms if left horizontal.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT maybe info wanted on 220 crystal rigs
--- On Tue, 7/29/08, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT maybe info wanted on 220 crystal rigs To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, July 29, 2008, 12:41 PM Anyone on the list know if its a good idea to purchase a good used crystal controlled rig for use on 220 ? I'm wanting to get on that band,without a huge radio investment. I saw Clegg FM-76 listed for sale,as an example. respond thru the list or direct. n3pyj at windstream.net If you can find the rigs with crystals for the local repeaters they are fine. I just would not want to order several sets at todays prices. I have a Clegg fm76 that is around 20 years old. I bought it to run on RTTY. There was about 20 of us running that rig or a Midline (probably mispelld that) that is the same exect rig except it has a fancy face plate. The internal wiring is all the same. They put out around 10 watts on high power. We have ran them for 20 minuits to a hour key down and they took it without any problems. It stayed on receive 24 hours a day except when transmitting.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: How to figure cable length for duplexer?
--- On Fri, 7/25/08, garyp609 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: garyp609 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: How to figure cable length for duplexer? To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, July 25, 2008, 7:09 PM Jim, Thanks for the response. The duplexer is a Telewave TPRD1554. They are brand new and bought from Tessco tuned. The cable on the RX side is marked 11 in black marker on the connector and the TX side is marked 11 1/2 . Both cables terminate at the T. I just want to feel assured that they are the right length as I feel my performance should be much better and want to rule out the duplexer. Gary K2ACY It probably is the duplexer. The specified rejection is only 77db. Unless you are running very low power and have a rotten receiver, that is not enough isolation.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Tuning / Desense
Get rid of the rg-8x and get some double shielded cable. Even a couple of feet of single shielded cable can cause much desense. Depending on the sensitivity and power level, a 4 cavity duplexer is just barley enough for a 600 KHz spacing on 2 meters. --- On Fri, 7/18/08, Mike Besemer (WM4B) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Mike Besemer (WM4B) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Tuning / Desense To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, July 18, 2008, 10:33 PM most from your Repeater System’, and the one thing I need to do yet is check for internal desense. I had to replace the Teflon-type cable which leads from the Mark IV transmitter to the back panel, and when I replaced it, all I had was some RG-8X. I’m (sort of) hoping that’s the problem, but I won’t know until I check. I can’t see where I’ve missed anything obvious, although tuning these types of duplexers is new to me. I spent 17 years in the Air Force working navigation and comm gear, so I’m pretty well versed in what I’m doing, but since this is a new venture for me, I’m certainly open to suggestions. I’ll check for internal desense tomorrow, but in the meantime if anybody has anything to add, please chime in.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 455khz filter for Mastr II discriminator audio
--- On Wed, 6/4/08, Willis M. Hagler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Willis M. Hagler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 455khz filter for Mastr II discriminator audio To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, June 4, 2008, 5:54 PM Whoa, where did we get off on voters? I asked the question originally based on a conversation I had with Pacific Research. I'm using their RI-300e controller which has been a solid controller for me on several other repeaters, but I've never tried to interface to a Mastr II. With the particular combination of a Mastr II and the RI-300e smart squelch setup I find the squelch action is not working well at all. I spoke with Greg (Gregg?) on the phone and he said they have had trouble with 455khz coming out of the receiver and throwing off the smart squelch. Their manual also mentions this: http://www.pacres.com/support/manuals/ri-300%20user%20manual%20v3_11.pdf On printed page 12 (pdf page 20) it says If your discriminator does not have adequate filtering for 455 kHz, you will have to provide for this filtering between the radio and controller. A 10mH inductor in line with a 1000pF capacitor to ground should work. You may need to adjust these values according to the output impedance of your discriminator. So I was proceeding down the path of a 10 mH inductor, and the feedback I really wanted from this group is what to do about this inductor as I see I can buy either a through-the-hole board mounted one that appears to look somewhat like a capacitor, or I can get a bunch of windings on a torroid core and make a choke. I'm pretty new at this so was asking more for advice along these lines. However, it's also very useful to know that the GE Mastr II UHF receiver shouldn't be outputting 455khz at all so I'm still not sure what the problem is. Thanks all, Mark Hagler W7WMH Seattle As the Mastr ll does not have an output of 455 but around 9 to 11 MHz that should be a non issue. There is an inductor and capacitor to ground that should eliminate any rf comming out of the volume/squelch high pin that I assume that you are using.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question - Dip It and Scotch Kote and Kry
--- On Fri, 5/9/08, Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question - Dip It and Scotch Kote and Kry To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, May 9, 2008, 12:09 AM --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Actually I looked up the Super Stationmaster and and they have one that's rated at 9 DB at VHF. Paul Paul, could you please post a link to the above mentioned antenna? It's tough searching; it seems there are dozens and dozens of antennas that have taken that name. Laryn K8TVZ I would like to see that also. It must be about 40 feet long or more. Maybe he was thinking of a UHF antenna or the exposed dipole antenna with all elements on one side. Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Super Stationmaster™ Omni Fiberglass Antenna, information wanted
look here: http://www.wiscointl.com/celwave/antennas/pd220/spec.htm http://www.lakelandarc.org/downloads/stationmaster.pdf --- On Mon, 4/21/08, Joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Super Stationmaster™ Omni Fiberglass Antenna, information wanted To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 21, 2008, 7:39 PM Does anyone have the spec sheet for the Super Stationmaster™ Omni Fiberglass Antenna PD-220 for 2 meters? All I find are general specs from 25-299.9Mhz. I'm looking for actual gain in dBd and bandwidth. 73, Joe, K1ike Yahoo! Groups Links Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna Tower
Dexter leave out the WWW. AS: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562985533mLTuoH --- Dexter McIntyre W4DEX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've tried several ways to put the link together with no success. These don't work for me: http://www.good-times.webshots.com/album/562985533mLTuoH http://www.goodtimes.webshots.com/album/562985533mLTuoH Is the picture still available? I've seen some 40+ year old towers that are still in very good condition. But I agree most that age aren't worth much if anything. Dex Rich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Heliax Testing and Megger
--- dallasreact112 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have access to a spare run of about 150' 1-1/2 heliax at a repeater site. It goes from the Radio Room to the roof. There is no antenna connected to it. I would like to verify if it still any good. Obviously, hooking it up to a TDR would be a preferred method of verification. Next best method probably would be hooking it to a transmitter with a Bird thruline at the transmitter and a Bird termaline at the end on the roof. I could then verify SWR and verify actual transmit loss. Lacking that, I wonder if a megger, which I do have, might be of use? If I were to suspect if the heliax is bad due to moisture incursion, one might be able to see a low resistance path between the center conductor and outer shielding. Has anyone tried this? Is there a spec, or reasonable approximation for insulation resistance center to shield per 100 ft or the like? 73 and Thanks Bernie Parker K5BP I don't know where to find it right off, but in one of the older ARRL handbooks there is a chart where you measuer the swr of an open or shorted line and see what you get. Depending on the loss of the coax you should see so much swr. The higher the swr , the lower the loss of the line. This is provided there is not some dammage to the line that would upset that . If the line has water in it, it should have a higher loss and a lower swr. Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Desense Problem on 222 MHz Repeater
--- Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Stu, I think 250 watts is far too much power for that duplexer to properly isolate. Try running just your exciter, or try no more than 30 watts or so. My 220 repeater runs just 18 watts, and it is almost perfectly balanced. I am using the same Telewave duplexer, and I have zero desense. According to my CommShop program, you need more than 90 dB of isolation for 250 watts TX and 0.25 uV RX- and that's assuming a tube amplifier. The Telewave TPRD-2254 duplexer is spec'd at 85 dB, so it is borderline, even when perfectly tuned. You might try a sharply-tuned bandpass cavity to clean up the transmitter output, to see if sideband noise is causing the desense. Also, try a bandpass cavity on the RX input. As has been explained many times on this list, a BpBr duplexer has practically no bandpass effect, and what little effect there is, is very broad. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY That was my thoughts also. Seems too much power for the ammount of isolation. Especially if a preamp is used on the receiver. I would like to know the modifications to the amplifier to get it to run that much power in repeater operation. I have one that will run around 500 watts but use it for ssb. As this was origionaly a 50 watt AM amp, I might see it running 100 to maybe 150 watts out in FM repeater service. Inside the amp are several pieces of coax. Is this double shielded or has it been changed to double shielding ? Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doubling Power Output On UHF Repeater
--- MCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Only if you're using a rig with a skewed S-meter (and today many are made that way). There are standards for proper S-meter calibration. While most people seem to agree that there is a standard, almost no receiver is calibrated to the 'standard'. The low band receivers are usually set where it takes more power per S-unit and the VHF and above receivers take less power to move the S-meter. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Installation of Radio Equipment in Elevator Machine Rooms and Hoistways
--- Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Shanon KA8SPW wrote: So moral of the story, you run the risk of liability. So just don't do it. I know we all want the shortest run but those are the rules. Run it outside the room to another area or you may pay. Heck, it might be you in the elevator leaving when you test the repeater on the way down, one last time and you drop like lead 39 floors to go SPLAT. Now that would be ironic... Not gonna happen-elevators have sort of a 'dead-man' lock. Large pins or arms pop out and into the rails if the car drops too quickly. Sorta like the Park gear on an automatic transmission on a car. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL They don't always work. Especially in the buildings that are 50 years or more old. While it was more like 3 or 4 floors an elevator where my wife worked dropped to the bottom and several people were hirt. It was not a total free fall, but fast enough. I work as an electrician and part of my duties is to look into the elevator problems. If it is much involved we call a contracted elevator company. If you could see the old grease and junk built up on the safety devices of the 40 year old stuff you probably would not want to ride one. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater on Portable Radios
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I thought LMR400 was supposed to be good on 2m. That is what I am using. Maybe that is part of the problem I am having. Is LMR600 the same way? I am running that from the antenna to the duplexer only. Everything else is double shielded. Vern Coax like 9913 and LMR400 is low loss at 2 meters. For use on a transceiver it is fine, but not for a duplex repeater. When new it may work fine. After a while the braid can loosen up and rub against the foil shield. This can generate a bunch of noise on the receiver, especially if there is movement in the coax. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Bulk] RE: [Repeater-Builder] RAIN Report: D-STAR Repeater Trustee, K6BIV, Responds to NFCC Letter to the FCC
--- Nate Duehr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have no other comment on the thread, other than that... simplex frequencies in a local bandplan are usually outside of the bounds of where repeaters are allowed to operate by law. -- Nate Duehr, WY0X [EMAIL PROTECTED] Most simplex frequencies are in the middle of the repeater band plan. For example 146.52 .55 .58 and several around 147.58 are some of the most common simplex frequencies as per most repeater co-ordinator band plans and are more or less near the middle of the 146 to 148 FCC repeater bandplan. Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545433
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer input and output power
--- Joel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok Skipp, and Jesse, So, I supposed that the specification of such, should be presented by the manufacturers of the said, and with the said, right! Or there is a general concept for duplexers, as in both examples, .1 to 3dB Jesse, and Skipp input loss 15 to 35% And which will be more accurate to work from dB or %. I always try to get a good balance when I'm tuning duplexers, most times I ended up taking a loss on the power for a better result on the receiver side, is this the best way to go? Or it depends on your situation, whether or not the extra power would effect your weakest signal! (most times a final touch up is done at the repeater site, it always make me feel like a perfectionist) Sometimes I still depend on my ears, then take a look at the test gears, 99% of the time I go with my ears because the difference don't be much when the duplexers are setup to the test gear figures. So, is the figurers always the right thing to work with, or they are just guides for a Tech with a bad hearing? v44kai.Joel. The percent and dB are the same thing. They are just the same numbers expressed in different ways. Just as distances can be expressed in miles, feet, meters, or other units. One is not more accurate , but some units are easier to work with. Most of the time it is easier to work with Db than percentages. They will just directly add or subtract. You might state a large distance in miles or kilometers instead of feet or millimeters. Neither is more accurate, just easier to state something as 10.1 miles instead of 53328 feet. especially when extreme accuracy is not required. You should tune the duplexer for the best signal and deepest notch. You then take whatever loss you get. If it is too much you change the coupling loops in the cans and try again. While going from 1 db to 2 db of power loss seems like a lot if you use a watt meter, it is really not that much in the performance of a system. What will kill the system is the desense of the receiver by the transmitter. If you have to detune a duplexer for less out of the transmitter to eliminate the desense, you are doing something wrong or the duplexer may not be up to the job to start with. Usually trying to use a 4 cavity duplexer to separate a 600 kHz 2 meter repeater will not work with transistor equipment, especially if the receiver is very good. It may work if everything is tuned just right, but if it rains ,a bird lands on the antenna or any other thing, it degrades enough to desense the receiver. It is always best to touch up a duplexer hooked up to the actual repeater and antenna system. Almost no system will be exec tally 50 ohms like the test setup. If putting in 100 watts to most 2 meter duplexers gives me about 70 watts out I am satisfied. Depending on the duplexer you may get less. One 6 cavity duplexer I have is set up for a high rejection of about 120 db. To get this I had to take a factory rated loss of 3 db. This only gives me 50 watts out. So anything between 50 and 75 watts out with 100 watts in is only the differance in about a 2 db to 3 db loss , or one dB of differance. The db differance does not seem to be much , but the actual power differance does. In actual use, the range will be almost the same. If you have a calibrated signal generator just try to see if you can tell much by the quiting differance of 1 dB. I do some weak signal work and 1 db may make the differance in a contact, but that is for very weak signals and not the casual usages most hams will be using. Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater Range : Estimate Program Available
--- Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Aug 30, 2007, at 12:35 AM, ldgelectronics wrote: As a quick and dirty method, the radio horizon is: Distance (in miles) = Square Root of (2 * height in feet). This equation is ok, but for a perfect spheer. Is a good place to start. Here in FL where max altitude is about 330 ft ASL it works pretty well although the lower the antenna the worse the actual coverage results. We have plenty of repeaters at 200 ft that have noticably better coverage than 20 miles with a mobile. Also one has to take in account of the user's station. The equation is to the horizon so a user with height over the horizon can also increase coverage. 73, ron, n9ee/r The quick and dirty method at the top is not entirely correct. For relative flat land the visual range to the horizon in miles is the sqrt of the height in feet. That is just for one station. You have to do the same for the other station and add the results together. Then there is a factor of about 1.2 to 1.5 this distance has to be multiplied by for the radio horizon instead of the vusual horizon. For the repeater station antenna at 200 feet, it would be 14 miles to the horizon plus a mobile antenna of 5 feet heigth to get 2.2 miles which would be 16.2 miles. Then multiply that by the radio wave bending factor of 1.2 to 1.5 to get 19.4 to 24.3 miles. It does not take much of a rise in the road when the rest of the land is flat to get the mobile station up a few feet and this can add a lot to the range. If the road goes up just 25 feet more the range will go up around 5 more miles. Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater Range : Estimate Program Available
--- Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ralph, I am sure the equation is Distance (in miles) = Square Root of (2 * height in feet) not Distance (in miles) = Square Root (height in feet). Then my refferance (ARRL Antenna Book 1974 version page 11) must be wrong. They give it as 1.415 * sqrt height, not 2 times the heigth. You may be getting the two times if you have two antennas at the same height. You have to use the formula two times, one for each antenna and then add them together for the total distance. The 1.415 is a multiplier for radio wave bending around the curve of the earth and may need to be differant for differant kinds of earth. Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wal Mart effect makes it to the Communications Hard (feed)-Line industry
--- DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Perhaps they should mark the jacket with 'Contains no copper' to deture cell site theft as well. I think the price of aluminum is up enough also to make it worth while to scrap. I have heard of reports of aluminum siding being ripped off. Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
Re: Re: Re: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexers
--- Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jesse, Then why do twin feeders have much less loss than coax??? Skin affect is even more of a factor there due to the differences in the area of the outer shield in coax vs the twin feeders wire. Maybe it is because of the larger C coupling in the coax due to the larger surface area of the shield. Coax has a lower R even with skin effect than twin line feeders. Skin affect is a factor, but a small one compared to the LC factor. 73, ron, n9ee/r It is not open wire or coax that determins the power loss. It is the impedance of the line and the size of the conductors for frequencies up to 1000 Mhz or so. To transfer 1000 watts of power , the voltage will be higher and the current lower in most prectical open wire lines. That is because the impedance will be around 300 to 600 ohms. Coax is usually 50 or 70 ohms. To get 1000 watts of power through that impedance line it requires less voltage and more current. This is the principal of regular 60 hz power line transmission. Up the voltage to a few hundred thousand volts and the current will go down. This lowers the losses. I don't care to take time to do the calculations, but if you take some small guage wire (say # 20) and space it close to make about 200 ohms line and figuer the loss, it may be higher than some 1 inch or even 1/2 inch hardline. At frequencies below around 1000 Mhz the major loss is the IsqR loss in all lines. Radiation is a very small part. In coax there is a point in which the current on the shield is not flowing but jumping from point to point where the shield wires cross. This causes some resistance. That is partly why the foil shielded coax and hardline is lower in loss than regular coax. Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545433
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexers
--- Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When you put the Bird between the TX and the duplexer, you have changed the length of the jumper cable, which upset the tuning. Adding a wattmeter or any other length of cable between the transmitter and the duplexer Tx input port has no effect on the tuning of the duplexer. It may change the load Z the transmitter sees, which may make the transmitter happier (or sadder) depending on the resulting Z, but in no way does it alter the tuning of the duplexer itself. Adding or removing cable lengths between the transmitter and duplexer also does not change the VSWR as seen by the transmitter (minimal cable loss effects notwithstanding). --- Jeff Jeff you have just made two statements that are the exect opposit of each other. If changing the length of cable makes a differance, then the swr as seen by the transmitter must change. As some transmitters can not be tuned for impedance mismatch, adding lengths of line may change the impedance where the transmitter will produce the maximan ammout of power out. If say the duplexer is setup for a 50 ohm load and the transmitter wants to load into a 60 ohm load, then changing the length of cable between the duplexer and transmitter may let the transmitter see 60 ohms instead of 50 ohms. The swr will not really change on the line as a whole, but at a given point it may match the impedance of the transmitter for maximum power transfer. Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. http://sims.yahoo.com/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexers
--- Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bernie, When you put the Bird between the TX and the duplexer, you have changed the length of the jumper cable, which upset the tuning. But, really, you need not worry about what the SWR is, if the forward power to the antenna is appropriate. Let's say you have a 4-can duplexer, which might have about 1.5 dB insertion loss. If your power amp delivers exactly 100 watts into a dummy load when connected directly at the TX output, you should expect about 70 watts going to the antenna when the duplexer is in the circuit. A 6-can duplexer might have about 2.2 dB insertion loss, and you should see about 59 watts going to the antenna. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY When the wattmeter is inserted it will not upset the tuning of the duplexer enough to reflect that kind of power. About all it could do is upset the tuning of the transmitter so that it will not put out the same ammount of forward power. This should not have much effect of the reflected power. One thing that could be (but not likely) is the transmitter is producing spurs and harmonices the duplexer is not letting pass to the antenna and is being reflected back. Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Re: [Repeater-Builder] License renewal
--- Don Kupferschmidt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, Recently I posted a question on renewing my Dad's license. I received a lot of response from you, and I was successful in renewing his license. Now, I'm noticing something different, though. From 1997 to 2007, he was listed as a tech plus. QRZ has updated his license and is currently listing him as a technician. Did the rules change out in FCC land that now groups all tech + to just tech's? If so, is there any changes in his operating status (like what frequencies he can / can't use)? Or, did something go wrong in the renewal process that I now have to address. TIA '73. Don, KD9PT [EMAIL PROTECTED] When the rules changed this year to eliminate the code requirements there is no need to have a + . He can operate on all the frequencies listed for a tech license. That is some CW only low bands, data and voice in some portions of 10 meters, and all above 50 mhz. Go to www.arrl.org and download the chart for the frequencies. All techs and older tech + now have the same priviliges. That means the techs can operate CW in som elow bands even if they never took a cw test. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] G.E.MVS Serice Manual
--- Jack Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I get a HTTP 404 Not Found response for www.bosshardradio.com Jack - Original Message - From: Steve Bosshard (NU5D) To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] G.E.MVS Serice Manual www.bosshardradio.com/NU5D/mvs Works fine here. Using Internet Explorer 7. Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Icom portable repeater help
--- Brian Rau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for your input, I was hoping to hear from someone who had experience with this kind of rig. I've been trying the vertical antenna separation tactic, which *in theory* puts the antennas in each others' nulls, but I think the reality is that there's enough pattern distortion, signal reflection, etc to make it unworkable. I just was looking for a sanity check before spending the bucks on the duplexer. Brian K9JVA Were you using double shielded coax or hardling ? If you run single shielded coax next to each other or past one of the antennas you usualy get desense. Need Mail bonding? Go to the Yahoo! Mail QA for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396546091
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advanced Receiver Research Preamp 144-148
--- wa5luy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to all that replied about the part number of the GaSa transistor. Wow! I learned about Chip Angles Porsche 911 preamps, ARR's Cadillac repair service,golden screwdrivers, platinum screwdrivers, and all kinds of information on tuning up preamps with exotic test stuff we never heard of. You folks have to understand back here in the hills of western Arkansas we save our money for fishin lures, ammo, Red Man, white lightning and repairs to the 75 pick up. When we tune up the repeater it's with Bubba on his HT in the next valley. We picked up this preamp at a garage sale for $ .25 and if no body knows the part number is we'll just use it for a trotline weight. 73, wa5luy Guess you get everything but the MGF1302 part number for the gasafet device that is used in the preamp. Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: DC INJECTOR AND PREAMP
--- dan ryant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: the problem with moving the repeater is that there isn't any buildings near the mast, and building one would pretty much be out of the question due to the cost involved and the slope of the hill that the tower is on. Not to mention the trees that would have to be cut down and the permits required. I am trying to find a DC injector that will power a preamp which can bypass for an output amplifier. This is my thought. Please correct me if I'm Forget about doing this . It can not be done inexpensively. YOu could move the duplexer near the antenna, put a preamp and power amp if you want at the duplexer output. It might be difficult to send enough current that far for the power amp. Guess you may be able to run 120 volts ac to the remote amp supply. There are weather proof boxes to hang on a tower you could maount the whole thing in. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] VHF Engineering files
Not sure if anyone wants this, but I did see where on the repeater builders page some of the files may be needed. A few are from the Repeater Builders page, but I do have the COR and Repeater manual files. http://home.earthlink.net/~ku4pt/data/ I will probably leave this up tuil I need the space. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Power Supply
--- Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeah, the RS and RM series are electrically the same however, the schematics vary depending upon the year of print. I have the RS-50M schematic from 2000 off the RB website. I requested a schematic from the rocket scientists at Astron. What they sent is dated 1996 and the two have significant differences between them not to mention a third I found elsewhere dated 1997 (again, some differences). I wouldn't be so concerned except the differences are in component ID's and values. I'm hoping someone has a more recent copy available-- perhaps two out of three (or four) will agree. The protective SCR is shorted in mine. I can buy the part from Astron next week but I was hoping to find it via Newark, Mouser, or the like. The SCR part number varies depending upon what schematic you look at but most call for a SO565J. I have not yet found the manufacturer of this part number nor a source outside of Astron. Gary It is not unusual for the part numbers and components to change over the years in electronics. Many noncritical parts will be bought in quantities and when they are used up the next batch may be obsolete or a beter price may be had for another part number. All that is needed for the scr is for it to be rated at the needed voltage and current and for the gate to trigger about the same. There are probably 25 to 50 devices that will make that rating, the same with many of the parts in the Astron. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Semi-Rigid Coaxial Transmisson Line.
--- Steve Bosshard (NU5D) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a formula in most hand books where the characteristic impedance can be determined from the inner diameter of the shield and the outer diameter of the center conductor. I have built many makeshift connectors using an UHF barrel, PL258, and slotting the outer conductor of the cable with a hacksaw, then driving the barrel over the center, applying passivating compound, and using a hose clamp to secure the shield to the barrel connector. I have used UHF barrels on 1/2 and 3/4 lines with good success. Also there is not a whole lot of difference between 50 and 75 ohm cable. Also, for a given diameter, the loss is pretty much the same with some difference due to dielectric losses. Steve For most frequencies coax is used at it is not the dielectric loss that is the major loss, but the loss in the conductors. Mostly the center conductor as it is the smalest RF conductor. Differant dielectrics usually let you use a larger center conductor for the same outer conductor diameter to keep the impedance. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Fan timer
--- Lee Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I on the other hand run my fans 24/7,why switch them at all? 28 years with the same PA transistors,I guess GE had the right idea! 73,Lee Chuck Kelsey wrote: Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never subscribed to the theory of having fans run beyond PTT. What purpose does it serve? The transistors are generating heat only when they are on. As soon as they are off they begin to cool down on their own. If the fans are doing their job, they are keeping temperatures to a prescribed level the entire duration of transmit. While running the fans beyond the end of transmit will cool the finals after the end of the QSO quicker than without, why should it matter? Chuck WB2EDV Unless it is big fans I like to run them 24/7 myself. The muffin type fans can't draw all that much extra current. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Anetenna Help
--- Thomas Flint [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a dual band magent mount antenna, the other day during high winds I lost the antenna part. Do to financial issues I am unable to buy another at this time. Does anyone know of away I can make it work using something else in its place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. KL0LS YOu may be able to stick a 19 to 20 inch wire, stainless steel welding rod or similar in the mount. If it is just a mount and does not have a matching network in it , it will work both bands. Should work fine on 2 meters and while the radiation patern may not be that great for the 440 band, it will load and work the local stuff. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for datasheet - SD1499-1
--- Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Trying to find a datasheet for an RF power transistor - SD1499-1. These were made by Thomson/ST Micro. Can't seem to find anything on-line, not even a cross-reference. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Maybe a 2sd1499 ? http://darasemi.com/stock%20pdf/2SD1499.pdf __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bandpass Cavity Insertion Loss
--- Jamey Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just got through tuning up a Phelps Dodge VHF bandpass cavity. The measured loss through this thing is 3.2 db. I am generating at -10 dbm. The level measured on the output is -13.2 dbm. It is a Phelps Dodge VHF bandpass cavity but I can't find a model number on it. Is this amount of loss normal? Thanks in advance. Jamey Wright KD4SIY It seems high by about 1 db or so. That is unless it has the high selectivity option, then it is about right for the 6 cavity filter (3 on each side). __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] WTD: UHF element for URM-120/Sierra 164B Wattmeter
--- Dennis Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good morning all, I am looking for a UHF element for the above wattmeter. There were various power and specific frequency ranges made...I need one that will cover the 440 amateur band at minimum. The element that went to 1 Ghz would be ideal. What do you have? Please excuse the marginally on topic post for some lists, but finding one of these is more difficult than I thought. Thanks! Unlike the Bird elements the URM120 or Struthers wattmeter slugs are calibrated for the meter it is used with. How much differance it will make to subistute the slugs from one meter to another is unknown to me. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bird Element
--- Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all I am looking to buy A Bird Model 43 Element 150-250 Mhz 2.5 Watts 150-250 MHz What I would like to know is there a way to Calculate the accuracy in using this Slug on 2 Meters 144-148, As everyone knows Elements are expensive and I would like to use it to tune up some Murs Low Power 2 Watt radios 151.-155 Also some 220 Exciters . Also I recall seeing yrs ago a Bird Low Power Wattmeter but I don't recall the Model number to look it up. Thanks Don KA9QJG There is no need to calculate the accuracy by only going to 144 mhz. It is the same within the ability of someone to look at the meter and see it move going from 150 to 144 mhz. Bird did have some charts for typical elements using them out of the nominal range. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater morse or voice identification
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would also be interested in this. Over the weekend, I picked up a VHF Engineering repeater that had the CWID board removed to be used on the repeater that replaced it. David KD4NUE So you need the VHF Engineering CW ID board ? Here is the schematic on it. http://www.repeater-builder.com/vhfe/vhfe-index.html If you don't find it there, let me know. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: FW: [Repeater-Builder] cable TV ground rods
--- Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Neil, No correction needed- you're absolutely correct. Furthermore, the telephone line protector, the cable TV coaxial shield, and the lightning protection system (if used) must ALL be bonded to the same grounding system as the electrical service. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY I don't disagree with that , but getting the installers to do that is something else. I was living in a house that the power came in on one side and the telephone line came in the other side. It had its own ground rod about 60 feet away from the power line ground. That was probably ok at the time the house was built, around 1965. There was not too many devices that hooked to the phone line in use in most homes. When the cable TV was installed around 1982 the installer put in his 4 foot rod about 3 feet in the ground . It was on the same side as the telepohne ground and not bonded ot it. Now this could really be a bad situation as the cable is hooked into two TV sets that are plugged into the AC power.. That gave me 3 ground rods that were not tied together at all. Not too good. __ Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year. http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] ARR preamp schematic
Is there a place that I can find a schematic for an ARR gasfet preamp ? I need the one with the switching relays. The two meter version, but they are probably all the same. __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Induced RF on tower and antennas
Has anyone ran into RF being induced in the antenna of a tower enough to cause a shock ? The setup is a tower 100 feet tall. On top is a Station master cut for the two meter band. There are a couple of smaller antennas on the tower. About 25 feet away is a 150 foot tower. On it are several paging antennas of various types. Around the 100 foot level is a 70 mhz antenna. Fellow went up the 100 foot tower to unhook the Station master and got a very big shock. This hapened twice to him. All the power was cut off with the main switch in the shack that goes to that tower at the time. There was no weather conditions at the time that should have induced anything such as lightning within 20 miles. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinadder
Ok Chuk start hoisting. The I measured the resistance with a low current Fluke meter and got 3.46 K ohms and put some current to the meter movement and got 100 microamps for the full scale. This was with the meter wires disconnected from the circuit. Sorry to take so long to do it. 73 de KU4PT --- kb4mdz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a couple not-very-clear copies of the manual; It's clear enough to read, just not comfortably. Send me a snailmail address I'll send one. BTW, pray that no one ever damages the meter movement on you; my Sinadder's movement is blown up, (##**$#($)%#...grumble, grumble) and quite a few years ago I tried to find a replacement; At the time I looked Motorola wanted something like $80.00 or more for it; I just can't bear to get rid of my box in case I can find a replacement for less than an arm or leg. Silly packrat. If someone can figure out how to calculate what mA or uA movement it is, I'd love to know. Tell you what, Ralph; if you can somehow measure your movement's and let me know, I'll hoist an 807 in your direction! Chuk Gleason [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cary, NC Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] 10 Meter Repeater
OTOH, if you can put your receiver and transmitter any appreciable distance apart, and use two antennas and feedline, then you just need to wireline the audio signals between them. Wireline from about 1000 feet to a couple of miles ? I don't think so. Sepreation of this distance for 10 meters usually means a radio link. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinadder
Thanks to : Marvin Hoffman [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have a very nice PDF file of the Sinadder I was looking for . I was asked if this could be put in the files section. This I don't know if it is legal or if the group owner would want it there. Kevin migh be able to put it in the Repeater Builders Tech information files on his web site ? Thanks also to the others that have responded to the request with some helpful information. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Sinadder
Does anyone have a link to an online manual for the Helper Instruments Sinadder ? I know how to use one but would like to see what the book has to say about it, maybe even a schematic incase I need to repair it at a later date. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: midland 13-509 220mhz to convert to repeater
--- DCFluX [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone have any experience with the TX-220 by VHF Engineering? I am debateing building it or just sticking with the FM-76 I know of a couple of the VHF Engineering repeaters that have been on the air for many years. Not too sure how they would be at a location where the receiver was in a high RF enviroment as the ones I know of were not too close to other sources of RF. The transmitter will drift if the temperature changes alot. The Midland probably would also in the same enviroment. They will hold up under lots of use. We used Midlands for RTTY (repeaters and at the house) and they seem to run forever. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Use a band pass filter between pass-reject duplexer and antenna?
--- w7aor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Eric Lemmon WB6FLY gave the best response to my question of how common is it to place a bandpass fillter betweeen antenna and duplexer. Most assumed a ham repeater with tx circulator and high rejection pass/reject duplexer which is correct. About 25 years ago I had Wacom retrofit a 4 cavity bp/br 2 meter duplexer with two pass cavities. One for the receive side to provide out of band rejection and one on the transmitt side to make it ballanced looking if for nothing else. The repeater was in an area with lots of other transmitters near it. Must have been over 100 antennas in a 3 block area. Later I noticed they were offering that design in their catalog. Seems most bp/br duplexers do not really have taht much rejection of out of band signals. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] VXR-7000
--- Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Our local club has been running a 10 Yausu 2410 2 meter repeater for many years. It is run through a Wacom wp-641 4 can duplexer. Great results from this unit and it hears excellentWe recently aquired a new vertex vxr-7000 do to some really nice friends locally. In hooking up the new machine we have terrible desense on lower signals that would still be full quieting into our old machine. We had a local shop retune the duplexer and still no luck. We have tried it both with and without the contorller hooked up and no luck. It hears and transmits great in base mode but falls apart in repeat. We are open to any ideas you all might have Thanks. Brian KC0DWX Most likely it is the 4 cavity duplexer. Many times they do not seem to be good enough to work with some of the repeaters. The 4 cavity units are just barely good enough to work with some repeaters if everything is tuned up just right. YOu need to add some aditional selecitivity such as another cavity to each side. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] IFR 1200/A Service Monitor
--- Jim Cicirello [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A question for someone who has working knowledge of the IFR 1200/A Service Monitor. Will this monitor act like a frequency counter and read frequencies off the air? I have been unable to find the answer. Thanks in advance. JIM KA2AJH No It will not. You have to put in a frequency close to where you think the frequency is and read off the error frequency. __ Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Midland 13-513
--- georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Need to know where to pick off the disc. audio. Needing to put a TS32 board on it. This will be used for a link radio. Is also has the acces. jack on the back...but I don't have a schematic...and to reverse engineer it would be a mess with ALLL those wires to get back in. It is not like the 13-509 as far as the schematic is concern. Or at least the best I can tell. Anyone? Thanks, Robert Look here: http://6mt.com/222tech.htm Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] USA Repeaters
--- steve [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Living in the UK our repeaters are very closley monitored. What are the rules in the US for repeaters, do the FCC tell you what you can have. 73 Steve M1SWB You can find the USA rules here for all ham stations. There is very little about repeaters. Mainly the frequencies they are permitted on and a couple of control issues. http://www.arrl.org/FandES/field/regulations/news/part97/ Anyone that has the proper licence can put a repeater on the air. It can be built out of anyting aslong as it operates within the technical rules. There are servral volunteer groups that try to keep order in their area. The FCC does not give them offical say as to what goes on in their area but if there is a conflict and the repeater that is going by the local groups rules will usually win their case. Here is an example of a local group. http://www.sera.org/ Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] USA Repeaters
--- steve [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Chris sounds like the US hams, unless they do silly things, look after all the repeater stuff, so, correct me if Iam wrong, if a ham wants to setup a repeater can he jst go ahead and do it. What sort of TX power restrictions are there, here it is very unusual for a repeater to run more than 25w That is correct. If a ham wants to set up a repeater he can just do it. As stated before there are local associations that try to keep order in things. The main restriction if you want to call it that is if a repeater is already on the air , you can not put one on that frequency and cause qrm to them or their users. I would say 25 watts is on the low end of repeaters and 50 to 100 watts are more common. The mobiles here are usaully about 50 watt units now. The FCC does not monitor ham transmissions very much unless there is some problem called to their attention. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Small Signals
--- Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have a pointer to a low level signal source, VHF/UHF? I don't have a service monitor, and I can't really justify one. I occasionally need to tune up a receiver. What I don't have, is a signal source at the 10uV and down level. I've used HTs and attenuators, but the leakage through the cable usually exceeds the attenuated signal. I would like to have calibrated levels, at least to some degree. You may want to check out ebay for some of the older generators. Such as: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=97198item=7521664395rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=97198item=7521664395rd=1 YOu should not have to pay any more than $ 50 plus shipping for them. They are not stabel and will drift some but will hold long enough to check the receivers. They were toward the top of the line when they came out. Often they will show up at the hamfests. I picked up one like the first one at a hamfest for less than $ 50 and it does work well enough to set up theFM equipment. That is what they show in some of the old Mastr ll books. __ Discover Yahoo! Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] HJ9-50 loss
--- mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for the quick reply. I couldn't find that anywhere on the net. I have a guy who is telling me that 0.34 dB (at 900 MHz) is too much loss on a SCANNER antenna run. LOL! I'm going to ask him if I should use HJ9-50 instead. ;- While that may be too much loss, for most it is difficut to beat the losses of the 9913/lmr400 types of cable. Usually the rg-6 cable tv antenna cable is about as good for most applications. Anything else is too costly and hard to run for most people. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Listening
--- Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, I've been given several frequencies to listen to, prior to getting a pair assigned. What troubles me is that my home setup is never going to hear what I would hear at the repeater site. I could put the receiver at the repeater site, but then how would I know what it's doing? Any ideas? Put up a cross band repeater using very low power to the transmitter. If your receiver it on 2 meters you could use a low power 440 transmitter, wven with a beam to your house. Maybe even use some nonstandard repeater frequencies, just be sure the transmitter is in the repeater band. You could use a tape recorder with a vox on it, or there are some computer sound card programs that will do that if you want to leave a computer at the site. __ Discover Yahoo! Find restaurants, movies, travel and more fun for the weekend. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] What would be gained in a duplexer change: Curiosity
--- Mathew Quaife [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just for curiosity sake, and please no debates, I'm only curious at this point for knowledge, and to satisfy a question that was asked of me. Currently I have a 6 cavity TX/RX duplexer system, which has 2.2 dB of isolation. The system is running 125 watts into the duplexer, getting just somewhat under 90 watts out. How much difference would be noticed if the duplexer's were changed to use only 4 cans. The difference that I am looking at is how much father would the repeater be heard, versus how far it would hear, how much noticable difference, considering I get no decense. The repeater is in virtually an RF free location. Other than the isolation issue, what else would fall into the matter. Thanks again, as I was asked why six cans over 4. Mathew First your measurments are not accurate. For 125 watts in you should get no more than 77 watts out and that may be a watt or two high. If you take out one can (assuming the 2.2 db is correct for 3 cans per side) you gain .73 db which is hardly enough to notice. That is still assuming that you do not pick up any desense. To find out the ammount of change in the range you have to give the frequency. A couple of free space calculations using 144 mhz give an increase of 10 miles to 11 miles and from 37 miles to 40 miles for the same signal levels. This is free space and in practice you probably will not see any of this. The antennas must be able to see each other to get this change. If you want to see how this will work in reverse, add about 12 to 15 feet of some rg-58 coax to your mobile rig and ride around and see how much range you loose. __ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] What would be gained in a duplexer change: Curiosity
--- Mathew Quaife [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well the figures I took are from memory, but your right, it's more likely about 80 watts out, but at either rate, got the answer that I was looking for. I'm not changing anything here, as it works, and if I mess with it, it WON'T, but one of the students hit me with this question, and I was stunned, so needed the answer. Besides, if I took out two of them it would look odd, and I would never sleep right, they fill the bottom of the rack just fine. Thanks. Mathew Now that we have the real question you can get a beter answer. Again assuming 2 meters with a 600 khz split teh reason for 6 cavities is to keep the transmitter noise out of the receiver. A transmitter will not only put out a signal at the desired frequency but a broad band of frequencies. Around 600 khz it may be 60 to 80 db down from the carrier. If the receiver will hear a signal of -120 db the duplexer has to make up the differance of 40 to 60 db if one watt is used. If 100 watts is used then you need 20 db more or 60 to 80 db of rejection. Two cavities will give the bare minimum in most cases if good solid state systems are used. The third cavity is added then you get a safety factor just incase . Most of the time even with proper tuning the transmitter and receiver will not have enough selectivity without the third cavity. __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
