does anyone know where I can get that synthetic felt-like pad that attaches under your
hood above your engine?
I don't want a fancy or tuner type pad with shiny foil, etc. just want the stock
look.
thanks in advance
rob marquardt
charge temp sensor is the most likely culprit. could easily be the wiring to it, as it
pulls out a bit from the plug. try replacing the sensor and the plug.
-- Original message --
Hello everyone I have a question for anyone that can help. I have been
having on going
after reviewing a lot of responses to my car vibrates like holy hell complaint they
fall into 2 categories.
1. Yup. thats the way it is
2. You have a problem
These are completely opposing categories! I'm still hoping that I continue to get
technical suggestions to work through this.
thanks
-- Original message --
Glad to hear it! John's a great guy and always willing to help.
So what was the ultimate solution? The dog bone or?
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
It was 90% the front radiator mount
The ultimate solution was understanding how to use the application.
Your poly mount kit will come with some extra spacers that look like big round
washers. In the installation instructions it appears that these must go inside the
front cup mount. Due to
a few weeks back we had a thread arguing about who ported heads better, etc.,
etc.
I'm looking for someone to do a porting/matching job on my spare GLHS head and
intake.
I've searched the archives and found A man by the Name of Rob Walsh mentioned
but I can't find an email
any
what is the right year, parts for conversion?
1989?
what make modle do you look for and what valve train gear do you order?
-- Original message --
lifters or the slider cam is making noise, go to a roller cam and it will
sound better.
Rob
In a message
Does anyone know conclusively what type of plastic was used on the Vacuum
harnesses of L-body cars?
was it ABS?
I'm also looking for any vacuum lines so if anyone has original lines I would
be interested.
Thanks
---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING
I have an 87GLHS that continues to overboost.
It was recently re-assembled after getting a new stainless steel exhaust
system. The turbo and everything else is stock. The elbow off the turbo was
changed to move to a 2.5 inch pipe.
I have verified that all vacuum lines are correct by comparing
A long time back, I had purchased as part of a project, a new 2.5inch turbo
flange for the upgraded exhaust system on a GLHS.
Does anyone know if you need to maodify/change the actuator arm if you do such
a conversion?
The arm seemingly went on fine, but I am having boost problems.
thanks in
I'm posting this for curiosity more than anything, but take a moment to look at
the auction on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-122s-Amazon_W0QQitemZ270098078034QQcategoryZ6458QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I just found the highlighting of the shelby wheels interesting. anyone
I have a relatively stock GLHS.
It has recently had an exhaust upgrade which includes the elbow off the turbo.
The elbow is an upgrade part to 2.5inch. I think I got it from
RelentlessRacing.
after the car has been put back together I get boost, and boost quickly, but it
will not stop and I
I upgraded my exhaust to 2.5 inch and put a new elbow off the turbo on.
I've since had boost control problems. Checking and rechecking vacuum lines
leads me to believe that the different geometry of the elbow/swingvalve is part
of the problem with using the stock wastegate can and actuator arm.
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