[biofuels-biz] Trains on Biodiesel - as mobile gensets

2002-07-04 Thread Neoteric Biofuels Inc.

http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,53591,00.html


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Re: [biofuels-biz] Trains on Biodiesel - as mobile gensets

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,53591,00.html

Very cool! And B100 yet, excellent. Thanks for posting it Ed.

Keith


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Re: [biofuels-biz] Trains on Biodiesel - as mobile gensets

2002-07-04 Thread Neoteric Biofuels Inc.


Here is another one, from the year 2000. German trains running on SVO (new
rapeseed oil).

600 hp locomotive runs like clockwork on rapeseed oil

World premier in Prignitz in Brandenburg

A locomotive from the Prignitzer Eisenbahn-Gesellschaft (PEG) is the first
locomotive in the world to run on rapeseed oil. The locomotive is used for
shunting goods trains in Berlin. The PEG has acquired the license for the
use of the regenerative raw material form the patent holder Klaus Elsbett
from ThalmŠssing near NŸrnberg. A PEG power car has been operating on pure
vegetable oil since November. Now more and bigger model V 200 locomotives
are to be converted. The large goods locomotives consume almost 5,000 litres
of fuel daily. With a litre price for rapeseed oil of 0.30 euro, the
conversion costs of around 7,600 euro per machine are amortised in a short
period, according to PEG.

PEG operates a rail network of 230 kilometres and achieves an output of 1.3
million train kilometres annually in passenger traffic. The rail company is
also active in the goods traffic business.

(PHOTO)

The power car on the left was the test vehicle.
In future the V 200 heavy goods locomotive will also be travelling with
rapeseed oil. 
Ê
additional information:
www.prignitzer-eisenbahn.de


Regards,


Edward Beggs, BES, MSc
http://www.biofuels.ca






on 7/4/02 2:04 PM, Keith Addison at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,53591,00.html
 
 Very cool! And B100 yet, excellent. Thanks for posting it Ed.
 
 Keith
 
 
 
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Re: [biofuel] tap water?

2002-07-04 Thread Christian

Thanks. That«s good news.

Christian

- Original Message -
From: Aleksander Gontarz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: [biofuel] tap water?


 Hi Christian!

 I didn't make much biodiesel yet, but I'm a chemist and I can tell you
that
 tap water is perfect (in relation quality - expenses) for washing
biodiesel.
 We are talking here about sub - massive production (not for laboratory
 scale) so distilled water is unnecesary expense.
 Alex



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mensaje enviado desde http://www.iespana.es
emails (pop)-paginas web (espacio ilimitado)-agenda-favoritos (bookmarks)-foros 
-Chat


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[biofuel] Farmers Turn To Composting, Chicken Tractors Toilets

2002-07-04 Thread MH

 MH wrote:
 You folks got me thinking about chicken manure and naturally
 Journey to Forever's - Poultry resources for small farms
 http://journeytoforever.org/farm_poultrylink.html
 had resources listed for mobile portable chicken tractors.

 The one I liked first, thanks Keith, 
 Profitable Poultry: Raising Birds on Pasture published by USDA's
 Sustainable Agriculture Network (SAN) -- Features farmer experiences plus
 research in a 16-page guide to raising chickens and turkeys using pens,
 movable fencing and pastures. For the newcomer or just-initiated, touches on
 production, processing, marketing and resources for poultry production.
 Free online:  http://www.sare.org/bulletin/poultry/

 There is also a interesting article that discusses
 Carbon to Nitrogen ratios and terracing hills for gardening
 Using a Chicken Tractor to Uppen Your Soil   by Andy Lee
 http://www.permaculture.net/PDI%20Web/samples/chicken.html
 who also was involved with the book
 Chicken Tractor : The Permaculture Guide to Happy Hens and Healthy Soil
 by Andy Lee, Pat Foreman, Patricia L. Foreman  


 Harmon wrote:
   I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
 humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
 for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
 a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
 when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along. 
Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)

 MH wrote:
 I skipped that workshop, shhhucks.  Came across these urban
 setups which I've heard of but not familiar with but would
 like to here more.

 Published by City Farmer, Canada's Office of Urban Agriculture
  list of Manufacturers  http://www.cityfarmer.org/comptoilet64.html

 In Vancouver, British Columbia, a 30,000 sq. ft. office complex,
 utilizes composting toilets and urinals for human waste disposal.
 The new building, which houses The Institute of Asian Research,
 is not connected to the city's sewer system. As well, a subsurface,
 greywater recycling system with phragmite (tall grasses) plant varieties,
 cleanses the greywater which is then used for on-site irrigation. 

 The C K Choi Building at UBC is the first all-Clivus Multrum
 large-scale office-building project in Canada. 

 There are a total of 5 Clivus Multrum Model M28 Composters
 at the Choi Building...with ten flushless toilets and, in addition,
 several flushless, trapless ventilated urinals attached to them.
 Each of these Clivus Composters has an annually user capacity
 rated at 45,000 visits. Therefore, the total annual rated capacity
 for the Clivus systems there is 225,000 visits.
 All of the Choi building's washwater (greywater) is processed on-site 
separately.

 And,

 The Clivus company in North American now manufactures
 roughly 90% of its composters in Canada: in Winkler and Winnipeg, MB,
 to be specific. The Clivus Multrum first came to Canada in the late sixties.
 There are residential and public facility Clivus systems in operation
 in all the provinces and territories-- some of the public facilities
 (such as those operated by Tourism Nova Scotia at the Government Washroom
 at Peggy's Cove) being visited annually by several hundred thousand visitors.
 The Peggy's Cover facility is Canada's first totally recycling,
 fully green public washroom configuration:
 It includes a splendid Clivus Multrum-designed grey water purification 
vegetable garden
 whose yields deeply impress visitors to the site. There's a magnificent 
greywater-purifying,
 Clivus-engineered grewyater-fed ornamental garden at
 the Irving Bouctouche Dune Eco-Centrealong with nothing but
 Clivus composters through the entire complex there. The compost tea
 generated by the two Model M28 Clivus composters and the M54 Clivus Trailhead
 stand-alone systems all gets recycled on tree seedling plantations nearby
 which the Irving Corporation manages. 

`

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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Hi again Harmon

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hi Harmon
 
 I should mention too that the guy at MREA, whose been composting
  humanure for decades, said turning is a bad idea, it loses heat, and,
  for humanure you want as much heat as possible. He also said let it go
  a year, make the piles big (pallet size), and just build another pile
  when the first if full, rather than trying to hurry it along.
  Obviously that doesn't work for apartment dwellers. 8-)
 
  Turning doesn't lose heat, you only turn it once it's cooled anyway.
  It may or may not be necessary - read Will Brinton's study that I
  posted previously: Sustainability of Modern Composting:
  Intensification Versus Costs  Quality:
  http://www.woodsend.org/sustain.pdf

A lot of people turn it quite often -- thus the rotating barrel
compost makers you see.

I don't have any time for those.

He was saying that you'll lose the optimum
heat if you do that.

In the rotating barrels perhaps, though nothing that happens in those 
is ideal anyway, but otherwise not necessarily. Still, I don't 
recommend excessive turning. Once is enough, when it cools, and that 
depends on your system, it may not be necessary at all.

   As for time length, he was talking about the whole sequence. Start
the pile with some straw or leaves or hay on a pallet to allow air
under it, add your daily bucket of crap, cover that with straw, it
will take at least six months to fill the heap (pallets for sides,
right?), depending upon the size of your family, maybe even a year.
This is just a pile for dealing with humanure, not your main garden
compost pile, as a lot of people aren't going to want to put it on the
veggie crops.

Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the 
sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it, 
through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do. 
Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of 
the product.

So I think your guy's being too squeaky-clean. No need for a separate 
system for humanure, process it along with everything else, kitchen 
scraps, yard wastes, garden wastes, everything. You can still build 
it up bit by bit as it comes, when it gets a bit of bulk it will fire 
up and keep going as you add new stuff. Finally, when it's full, 
leave it till the heat dies down, then turn it (best to turn with 
this kind of pile), add a bit of water if necessary, it'll heat up 
again, when it cools down leave it to cure for a few weeks and then 
you can safely use it anywhere.

  The Gromor guys seemed to be doing frequent turning and watering to
  keep the heat down, but that's not at all necessary, IMO, and
  Brinton's, and it may be counter-productive. Which is not to say it
  won't work anyway.
 
  I don't think humanure needs any more heat than any other kind of
  composting.
  http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/howardAT/ATapp3.html
  An Agricultural Testament - Albert Howard - Appendix C
  The Manufacture of Humus from the Wastes of the Town and the Village
 
  Van Vuren's pioneering work in South Africa confirms this, along with
  Wylie's in England, and Gotaas's work all over the place (not online
  yet). My own work in England also confirmed it. It's just
  thermophilic composting like any other. C:N ratio, moisture content,
  aeration apply the same as with any other materials. It'll go well
  above 65 deg C and stay there awhile, finished in a few weeks, cure
  it a few more, and that's it. That's not hurrying it along, that's
  just how it works. No need to leave it for a year, it won't
  accomplish anything, and unless you store it well it will lose
  quality in that time. If the actual composting process is taking that
  long, then it's not properly thermophilic, and not ideal for
  humanure. Poore's and Moule's experiments with topsoil sanitation
  were very interesting, and indeed many millions (billions?) of people
  have done it that way for a long, long time, but I'd want proper hot
  composting first - not just for sanitation, also the results are
  better. Hot composting is quick.

Yes, if you have a lot, but for individuals or small families it's
just not going to work that way, the pile won't be big enough. I know,
I've tried it in WI, it froze solid in the winter.

I was talking about a small composting box I had on the balcony when 
we were in Tokyo. I had a 14x14x12 wooden box, only 1.36 cubic 
feet, composting kitchen wastes, which stayed above 60 deg C (140F) 
for about 10 days or more, freeze or shine - weather made no 
difference. Heavy snows during some of that time. The box wasn't 
insulated, just plain pallet planks with a lid. I did say that was 
pushing it, we usually recommend not smaller than 8 cub ft, which 
will certainly work, and is fine for a small household.

I've been working with composting systems for householders and 
kitchen wastes and so on for more than 20 years 

Re: [biofuel] Mid-California Ethanol use

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Murdoch,

When are you going to set up an investment fund for manufacturing biofuels?

Craig

If you're interested in that, you should contact this person about 
the Alternative Energy Fund, say I said so:

Eugen Wawrin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Best

Keith


- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [biofuel] Mid-California Ethanol use


  Thanks to several different posters for putting up these various
  cumulatively informative explanations.  For example with Craig's
  information I was able to see that there are both pros and cons that
  seem to come from a sort of dosage of ethanol, in terms of
  engine-cleaning.  It may seem to a real enemy of the fuel that one can
  conclude that it's just a disaster, but in fact there's another side
  to the matter.  That's the sort of thing that has always left me a bit
  wary of accepting any one simple explanation: proponents seem to
  sometimes not even acknowledge any drawbacks at all (such as what
  seems to be the temporarily worse performance in Craig's description)
  and detractors seem to take any temporary or condition-based drawbacks
  on performance as an excuse to dismiss the technology out-of-hand (a
  classic sign, in my opinion, that they lack a commitment to an
  objective evaluation of the technology).
 
 
   Practical Use of Ethanol
  
   1. It is unlikely that the ethanol has been watered down. It is
absorbing
   the water in storage and from your tank. It will take at least 3 to 4
full
   tanks full to get the water out.
  
  Get a bottle of ' Heet ' (it is made to remove water from gas tanks to
keep
  gas lines from freezing ), this might help.
  
  Greg H.


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread harmonseaver

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the 
 sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it, 
 through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do. 
 Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of 
 the product.

   I think the problem here is it just gets too cold in Winter -- when
you put the bucket of kitchen waste out on the heap, it freezes solid
before it has a chance to start working. Even here in central WI it
does that, in northern MN where we did a lot more composting, it was
frozen solid from about Nov. 1 -- mid-May, just like the ground. I
suppose if you had a large batch of materials mixed up properly with
the correct ratios, it might have a chance, but you can't do that with
the daily wastes. And really, my compost piles here are more worm-bins
than real compost, I don't think they ever heat up much. Not enough
nitrogen for one thing, here in town. And when we had animals up in
MN, we always just put manure straight on the garden. 
   I wish the humanure book had been out then, we really had a problem
in the Winter. Our outhouse would always freeze, as we got a lot of
heavy rain in Fall, and it was heavy clay soil, so the outhouse hole
would fill to ground level with water, then freeze solid. So you'd
have a very small space left which filled rapidly. Several Winters we
ended up having to just use a chamber pot and empty it into a 55gal
drum, and although we added leaves and wood ashes in there to try to
get it working, it just froze solid too. When it doesn't get above
zero F. for weeks at a time, things don't get a chance to start
breaking down and creating any heat. Up there you'd find piles of snow
in the woods well into June, and the lakes never opened up before
mid-May, and the Forestry wouldn't allow road work until June. 
Somewhere I've seen plans for a solar heated outhouse, and solar
heated compost bin, which would probably be the ticket. I tried, as I
said, making compost in a plastic barrel in the greenhouse this last
Winter, but it just didn't get enough air, I think, too much water,
even tho I added dry leaves, and not enough nitrogen. I'll try
something different next year.









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Re: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Ken

nomadicism...

- Original Message -
From: harmonseaver [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: [biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA  sulfur


 --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Perfectly safe, if you do it right. Entire populations have used the
  sanitizing effects of topsoil for this, and grown their crops on it,
  through many generations, without ill-effects, and still do.
  Hot-composting makes sure of that, and improves the effectiveness of
  the product.

I think the problem here is it just gets too cold in Winter -- when
 you put the bucket of kitchen waste out on the heap, it freezes solid
 before it has a chance to start working. Even here in central WI it
 does that, in northern MN where we did a lot more composting, it was
 frozen solid from about Nov. 1 -- mid-May, just like the ground. I
 suppose if you had a large batch of materials mixed up properly with
 the correct ratios, it might have a chance, but you can't do that with
 the daily wastes. And really, my compost piles here are more worm-bins
 than real compost, I don't think they ever heat up much. Not enough
 nitrogen for one thing, here in town. And when we had animals up in
 MN, we always just put manure straight on the garden.
I wish the humanure book had been out then, we really had a problem
 in the Winter. Our outhouse would always freeze, as we got a lot of
 heavy rain in Fall, and it was heavy clay soil, so the outhouse hole
 would fill to ground level with water, then freeze solid. So you'd
 have a very small space left which filled rapidly. Several Winters we
 ended up having to just use a chamber pot and empty it into a 55gal
 drum, and although we added leaves and wood ashes in there to try to
 get it working, it just froze solid too. When it doesn't get above
 zero F. for weeks at a time, things don't get a chance to start
 breaking down and creating any heat. Up there you'd find piles of snow
 in the woods well into June, and the lakes never opened up before
 mid-May, and the Forestry wouldn't allow road work until June.
 Somewhere I've seen plans for a solar heated outhouse, and solar
 heated compost bin, which would probably be the ticket. I tried, as I
 said, making compost in a plastic barrel in the greenhouse this last
 Winter, but it just didn't get enough air, I think, too much water,
 even tho I added dry leaves, and not enough nitrogen. I'll try
 something different next year.










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[biofuel] EPA calls railroad environmental hero for B100 use

2002-07-04 Thread Neoteric Biofuels Inc.


 

Ê Headline News 
EPA lauds California railroad for use of vegetable oil-derived fuel
Ê
OAKDALE, CALIF. (July 2) -- The Environmental Protection Agency has named
the Sierra Railroad Co., which operates a scenic dinner train and freight
trains, an environmental hero for becoming the first railroad in the
nation to operate on B100 biodiesel fuel refined entirely from vegetable
oil.

The fuel eliminates diesel emissions and reduces dependence on imported
petroleum, according to World Energy, which manufactures the fuel.

Meanwhile, Sierra Railroad President Mike Hart said he plans to use 48
locomotives running on the vegetable oil fuel to generate electricity for
the state«s power grid during peak demand times.

The railroad is based in Oakdale and operates in the Sierra Nevada
foothills.

http://www.wastenews.com/headlines2.html?id=1025646661


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread harmonseaver

Thinking back, I recall that for quite awhile we were trying
something we'd read about to help keep the goats warm in Winter. The
idea was to just keep putting down fresh bedding, not removing the old
or the manure. This would compost and the heat would be a great help
for the animals, then in Spring you haul it all out. Sounded great to
us, we always felt sorry for the animals in Winter, most of our
chickens lost their combs and wattles to freezing, the barn cats
usually had shortened ears, etc. 
You'd think that would be the perfect setup, really for good
composting -- plenty of manure, plenty of urine to for both moisture
and more nitrogen, and the hay for bedding. We were quite
disappointed, however, as there was never any noticable composting
going on until late Spring. Otherwise it seemed pretty much frozen
solid. Never saw any steam rising from it, never felt warm at all, and
I spent plenty of time on my knees on it, milking the goats twice a day. 


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[biofuel] Re: Farmers Turn To Composting, Georgia, USA sulfur

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Harmon wrote:

Thinking back, I recall that for quite awhile we were trying
something we'd read about to help keep the goats warm in Winter. The
idea was to just keep putting down fresh bedding, not removing the old
or the manure. This would compost and the heat would be a great help
for the animals, then in Spring you haul it all out. Sounded great to
us, we always felt sorry for the animals in Winter, most of our
chickens lost their combs and wattles to freezing, the barn cats
usually had shortened ears, etc.
You'd think that would be the perfect setup, really for good
composting -- plenty of manure, plenty of urine to for both moisture
and more nitrogen, and the hay for bedding. We were quite
disappointed, however, as there was never any noticable composting
going on until late Spring. Otherwise it seemed pretty much frozen
solid. Never saw any steam rising from it, never felt warm at all, and
I spent plenty of time on my knees on it, milking the goats twice a day.

Trampled flat, no aeration, possibly too much moisture in the urine 
anyway... might manage to get a start in the spring, yes, in spite of 
all that. Or whatever, but hot composting most certainly can and does 
happen in freezing weather. It's more exacting, but it works. I've 
got photographs of people composting in the winter snow in Canada, 
and in Sweden. I've done it myself. Not magic, not a trick, it's a 
simple formula, if you follow it, it works.

In cities, dry brown stuff (carbon) might be a problem, though always 
a solvable one, but I've never been short of nitrogen, not even in an 
inner city flat with no balcony, let alone a garden. In extremis you 
can use what English organic gardeners call HCA - household compost 
activator, aka urine. No smell with hot compost. Not even with 
leafmould: The decaying leaf medium breaks it down almost instantly 
so that there is never any odor, and germ survival in material such 
as this has been shown to be practically nil.
http://journeytoforever.org/garden_con-mexico.html
Organic food production in the slums of Mexico City

By the way, wood might be better than a plastic barrel. Wood 
breathes, while with plastic water condenses on the inside walls so 
the edge of the stuff gets too wet and dies, which can kill the whole 
process, especially if the air supply isn't adequate (from 
underneath, as you said).
http://journeytoforever.org/compost_make.html
Making compost

Regards

Keith


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Re: [biofuel] titration

2002-07-04 Thread Keith Addison

Hello again Neil

  - Original Message -
  From: Keith Addison
  To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 4:43 AM
  Subject: Re: [biofuel] titration


  Hello Neil

  Not sure I understand this. Sorry if I'm being dumb.

  Sunflower
  The sunflower refers to the background that my wife insists on 
having on our emails.  Using Cottonseed and canola oil.

  
  I am having some major problems with the titration of my oil.
  Using digital ph meter
  Oil/Isopropyl Alcohol mix 6.4

  pH6.4 before you started adding the NaOH.

  !% Caustic soda 10.5

  What does this mean?

  opps typo was fairly late when I sent that.  1%  5ml lye in 5 
litres of distilled water.

Okay, but what's the 1% mean? Should it be 0.1%?

  20ml iso, 2ml oil

  Doubling up like this makes for more accurate measurement, but it
  also means you have to divide the result by 2.

  yep was encouraged by the first 1ml then as it equates to .5ml 
The oil is a nice oil colour, not black.

  1ml CS brings the reading to 6.9 and all is heading right.

  CS = 0.1% NaOH solution?

  2ml of CS takes the reading to 6.85
  3ml of CS takes the reading to 6.75
  Lost my temper here slightly
  12ml of CS took the reading to 6.35 ie below staring value.

  I've never seen it going down. Sometimes with really high FFA oil it
  just seems to sit at a particular level for ages as you keep on
  adding more lye solution, but finally it shifts up and everything's
  fine. Is this very heavily used sunflower oil?

  Nope changed weekly from a restaurant that does mainly pasta and 
Pizza dishes,

  Your iso is pure and new? It can get a bit acid if it's old stuff,
  and can pick up some moisture too. You can do a sort of dummy
  titration to check it - titrate without the oil, see what it takes to
  get it to neutral, then add the oil, proceed as normal and subtract
  the difference at the end.

  The iso was new but how long it remained in the chemical depot 
prior to decanting my 1 litre bottle I do not know.

  Same with the lye - new, pure and fresh?

  Same lye I used with the 15ltr test batch so it appears to work 
pretty well, again its history prior to me buying it last month are 
unknown.

  You dewatered the oil?

  yes boiled off the water prior to testing.

  Are you using distilled/de-ionized water?

  Yes Distilled water, least it says it is on the container.

  Have you calibrated your pH meter?

  Yes sat happily on 6.99 - 7.01, I was ok with that amount of error.

  Repeated with Phenolpthalien (sp)  took 25 - 30 ml to get a pink colour.

  So that's proper phenolphthalein then, not Phenol Red. But indeed a
  titration of 15 ml would be somewhat high. Again, the phenol is fresh
  and pure? It must be kept away from light.

  The Phenol is not fresh, I liberated it from the science lab at 
school yesterday, they said it was quite old.  Only got it to check 
my results with the PH meter.
  Am going to order 100gram packet of powder from school supplier.

  After 2ml the oil drops out of solution and is difficult to get to
  mix again.  and the mixture turns a cloudy white colour.

  Yes, that happens. You have to keep stirring it. It helps if both the
  iso-oil mix and the lye solution are somewhat warm, about 30 deg C or
  so. That might make a difference to your readings unless your pH
  meter has automatic temperature control, but it won't be a real major
  difference - standard titration temperature is 25 deg C.

  I stood the glass bottle in a container of cooling boiling water 
ie the water was not contiually heated.

Well, I dunno, everything seems okay, I can't offer an explanation. 
Maybe someone more experienced has something to offer.

Anyway, try it again, see what happens. One suggestion - try 
titration with some virgin oil first. Brew up a small batch out of 
virgin oil too while you're at it.

  By the way, was this the same oil you used before, that I posted
  pictures of at the list website Files section? General opinion was
  that you'd used too much NaOH in that batch. Did you titrate it? If
  not, how much NaOH did you use?

  Yes same supplier.  Did not titrate it as I had no Phenol at the 
time and the PH meter was enroute to me.  Itchy trigger finger I 
guess so I used the info from Mikes site to try the 15 litre batch. 
6.5gr Lye

Okay, I'm sure you know this, but I have to say that Mike doesn't 
recommend that, though certain people have insisted that he does 
recommend just using 6.5 grams, and then told me I can't read 
what's shoved under my nose. (Hell, it's on my website, I worked on 
the thing with him, then edited it, you'd think I might know what it 
says.)

Anyway, just for the record, Mike says this: I've found over time 
that the number of grams of lye needed per liter of WVO has generally 
been between 6 and 7.

He also says this: To determine the correct amount of lye required, 
a titration must be performed on the oil being transesterified. This 
is the most 

[biofuel] Biodiesel as a business

2002-07-04 Thread coachgeo3

Has anyone ventured this direction yet?  Anyone entertained the 
idea?  Lets talk please if so.  

GP Jessup III

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[biofuel] Re: tap water? methanol use

2002-07-04 Thread coachgeo3

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi all.
 SNIP
 Buying the used oil already makes things expensive, and the 
pretended
 volumes of WVO aren«t big enough to reach wholesale prices for 
methanol
 (Retail methanol costs about 2.5 pesos/lt... imagine it were 
equivalent to
 2.5 dollars/lt, which it is not.. SNIP
 If I had
 saved dollars, that would roughly be 60 cents of a dollar per 
liter). To
 consider myself in business, at least for small scale production 
(the
 intention is to sell the BD... cheaper than dino diesel of course), 
I need
 to be very careful with costs, and that includes my source of water.
 
 Regards,
 
 Christian
 

Christian does this cost calculation include reuse of the collectable 
methanol?


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