Youch! In that case I'd have to use flat top pistons too. The problem is having
the thing able to run on pump gas too if I had to, with octane booster maybe. I
might have to compromise on the C:R. I can find out what the high perf. guys get
away with. Swapping just the head would allow leaving the short block intact, a
plus for a fresher motor.

Jay in Carson City

kirk wrote:

> Double check this to be sure Jay because I'm quoting this from memory, but
> 13.5 to 1 is the recommended compression for ethanol engines.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Freed [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 11:19 PM
> To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [biofuel] ethanol for older motors
>
> As far as I know, studies show lack of lead only hurts long idling fleet
> engines. Many times a machine shop just wants to make extra money inserting
> hardened valve seats. Additive sellers just want to sell additive. It might
> depend on the make too, some use cheaper iron than others. I dunno how
> alcohol affects that though. You might need head work to raise the
> compression for alcohol, or find a different head with a smaller volume.
> This
> is what I'll do with my '69 amc 232. I have a 65 head with smaller chambers.
> Jay in carson city
>
> Phillip Paton wrote:
>
> > Hi
> >
> > I have only recently had my eyes open to the idea of making your own
> > biofuels,
> > and find this list very interesting and informative. thanks
> >
> > I'd like to ask a question regarding using straight ethanol in older
> > motors,
> > originally designed for leaded petrol. The lead had a role in
> > lubricating the
> > valve and preventing valve seat recession. LRP also has an additive for
> > this purpose.
> > With the use of straight ethanol how is the valve lubrication achieved.
> > regards
> >
> > Phil Paton
> >
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