-----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Treasure [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 10:16 AM
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Subject: FW: [biofuel] Re:SVO/Cummins (long) (was SVO vs B-D) -
-----Original Message-----
From: craig reece [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 5:30 AM
To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [biofuel] Re:SVO/Cummins (long) (was SVO vs B-D) -
Joel,
My answers follow your questions:
Prairie Dog wrote:
> --Hey, Craig, why not let us *all* know how it goes with the
> direct-injected Rover? :-)
Will do. Both initial results and long-term follow-up - I'll be checking the
injectors frequently for deposits, and probably getting periodic oil
analysis, per Ed Beggs (from Neoteric Biofuels - www.biofuels.ca )
recommendation. (And if your Cummins is, as I'm almost sure, an
indirect-injection engine, you don't need to do either.)
> I just got a copy of "Fryer.." in an eBay auction; it arrived yesterday
> in the mail. I'm looking forward to reading all about the Veggie Van.
The main change I'm making to their approach - along with others in the
Biofuels Group - Ed and Dana among them - is that I'm going to run a return
line to both the dinodiesel (or biodiesel) tank *and* the SVO/WVO tank.
Reports from the field indicate that looping the SVO return back to the
injection pump can prevent air from getting bled from the system.
> Thanks for the encouraging words, in the event that my Cummins is IDI.
> As for the system desing, though, what I'd *really* like to do is to use
> the *main* fuel tank for WVO, and the second tank for the diesel. My
> main tank is 40+ gallons, and since it is a commercial vehicle, I've got
> plenty of space for locating the second tank. Plus, looks won't matter!
That's exactly what I'd do. My truck will have about 20-22 gallons in the
rear for SVO/WVO and 10-12 in front for bio or dinodiesel.
> The original tank has a tank cover of heavy guage steel around it, about
> 3/4" away from it: I wonder if I could effectively steal that space for
> wrapping copper coils and insulation around the main, WVO, tank?
If it's a skidlate under the tank, you could sneak coils between the
skidplate and the tank, but they aren't going to heat the tank as well,
plus you'll have more heat loss than if they were in-tank. I'm going to use
either the Webb Hot STK or Dana's design for an in-tank immersion heat
exchanger. Check the (recent) Archives for chat about both - Motie first
posted about the Webb a couple of weeks ago, followed by Dana's drawing of
his steel or copper design. Arctic Fox also makes immersion-type tank
heaters.
> I might add a 110v plug-in heater, too, for keeping it warm overnight.
> Any recommendations? For that matter, what is the best type of block
> warmer to use? : my truck doesn't have any heaters on it yet.
I don't have any recommendations, but your Dodge dealer might be able to
help you. I think that a block heater could be used to pre-warm the tank -
with a 2nd one to pre-warm the engine. And I've heard of 12V mat-type tank
heaters, but have never really done a websearch for them. It's been pointed
out that they'd probably suck a lot of amps from the batteries if you turned
them on prior to starting, and once the engine is running a good coolant
loop heat exchanger works pretty quickly.
>
> I'm also wondering what kinds of guages I need to add: I've read
> recommendations for pressure, vaccuum, and temp gauges: will they really
> tell me anything? It's already got about 20 gauges more than any dude
> could ever need....
I'm going to install a coolant temp senders in my SVO/WVO tank, and maybe
plumb a 2nd one into the fuel line just before the injection pump, with
indicator lights on the dash. You can get coolant temp senders with a range
of pre-set temps at which they'll trigger a light - AutoMeter's ProLite
series makes them as giant idiot lights (and some would say we fit the
definition, putting salad dressing in our fuel tanks) but the sender could
trigger a small dash light instead. So, unlike the suggested
thermostatically-controlled (and automated) switchover from diesel to SVO
suggested in "From the Fryer " with the added complexity, I'll just wait for
the indicator light tied to the temp sender in the tank to tell me the
SVO/WVO has reached 170 degrees, then I'll flip the switch. The 2nd sender
in the engine compartment will let me know if the SVO has cooled in transit
- and if so, I'll switch back to diesel and go shopping for some aux.
heating in the engine compartment - Neoterics $75 in-line 12V fuel-line
heater, maybe, or add Racor's 200 watt fuel filter bowl heaters.
Some folks add vacuum gauges so they can monitor clogging of the fuel
filter. The old-fashioned way is to wait until you notice a lack of power,
then change the filter element.
> And a final (?) question: this truck will be used on a route, so most of
> the time it will be idling, not driving. Does that affect the choice of
> WVO vs BD?
I'd think that depending upon where you drive and how cold it gets, stop and
go driving might increase your need for heating past the tank.
Good question s- keep them coming.
Craig
>
>
> Thanks, all!
> -Joel R.
>
>
> Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
> http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
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