VACList Digest       Wednesday, January 8 2003       Volume 03 : Number 067



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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VACList] pressure water tank
[VACList] Double Bed
Re: [VACList] Clearance Lights
Re: [VACList] Clearance Lights
Re: [VACList] Double Bed
[VACList] Axle replacement
Re: [VACList] Double Bed
Re: [VACList] Axle replacement
Re: [VACList] pressure water tank
[VACList] Re: Florida
[VACList] Indio - County Park 
Re: [VACList] Double Bed
RE: [VACList] Double Bed
[VACList] Hitch
Re: [VACList] pressure water tank
RE: [VACList] pressure water tank
Re: [VACList] Our "new" 1955 Sovereign, help!
RE: [VACList] pressure water tank
[VACList] History of Mobile Homes & Trailers - Website
Re: [VACList] Double Bed
Re: [VACList] pressure water tank
Re: [VACList] pressure water tank
Re: [VACList] History of Mobile Homes & Trailers - Website
Re: [VACList] Double Bed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:25:12 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank

Scott,
Both of my trailers, 57 Sovereign of the Road and 59 Ambassador
International have Aluminum pressurized water tanks. Why not go on the hunt
for an earlier tank from a junker? There must be one around somewhere.
Colin Hyde

> discovered that the old galvanized fresh water tank has sprung a slow
leak.
> :-(  I guess that 42 years was its limit! I seem to remember that this
topic
> came up last year and that someone had found a source for these galvanized
> cylindrical tanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:30:34 -0600 
From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Double Bed

I'm wanting to convert the twin bed setup in 
my rear-bathroom coach into a double bed.  All 
of the original stuff has already been removed 
and set aside. 

Looking at the floorplan in the service manual, 
it looks as though Airstream used a 48" x 75" 
mattress in the double bed configuration.  Does 
anybody have one of these?  Am I correct on that 
size?  Can 2 adults sleep comfortably on it?  
And are fitted sheets available, or do you have 
to make your own?  

Or...
Anybody ever put a regular full size bed in one 
of these trailers?  That's a 54" x 75" mattress. 
Looks like that'd block a big part of the door 
opening into the bathroom.  Not sure what other 
sorts of problems might crop up either.  There 
would still be room for an isle and some sort 
of storage against the opposite wall.  And there 
is room to move the whole bed forward about 5" 
which could make the bathroom more accessible.
(?)

Not sure what I'm going to do.  I'd like to 
hear any experiences or thoughts regarding any 
of this from anybody here.  Thanks.  

Jimbo / '76 Sovereign 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:08:13 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Clearance Lights

Few SOB have the continuos aluminum skin of the Airstream. They just
about need a copper ground wire circuit. The riveted clearance lights on
my '68 Caravel were universally ungrounded because the ground connection
depended on compressing plastic. The definition of PLASTIC is flows
under pressure. That means it relieves pressure. Three years ago or so,
I removed all the clearance lights and modified their mountings to have
no plastic under pressure in the ground circuit. I used aluminum screws
with the heads inside the aluminum skin (using mostly key hole slots),
multiple nuts and shakeproof lock washers with copious amounts of
aluminum conductor grease (contains zinc crystals to break through
aluminum oxide). They are so bright I can see them with full sun, and
I've had to do no more maintenance on them since. While I had the light
fixtures off, I polished the lamp contacts with scotchbright and coated
those surfaces with silicone dielectric grease to keep corrosion from
happening again. Just the way Ford has been doing truck light fixtures
for at least 17 years. For the second mounting hole, I used stainless
steel self taping screws at least a size larger than the rivet I
removed.

E.g. do it once right, and it may not need doing again. The original
riveting wasn't right. It wouldn't have passed design rules at Collins
Radio to depend on pressure through plastic for any electrical
connection.

I'm sure there are more details of what I did in Tom's archives.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:08:16 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Clearance Lights

Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> 
> Assuming that the ground is through the rivets to the skin, and that the
> aluminum runs under most of the light's backing plate, why not drill a small
> hole through a part of the backing plate (covered by the lens) into the
> skin and install a stainless screw to improve the ground?
> 
> Scott
> 60 Overlander
> 
Only a benefit if that new screw goes through the ground strap, not a
hot strap and you tighten that screw regularly to compensate for the
squashing of the plastic underneath which is the fundamental failure
cause.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:17:14 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Double Bed

A standard double bed is 56 inches wide. 48 used to be called a 3/4 bed,
suitable for two consenting adults. Thin adults would be happiest. 56"
fitted sheets may stay on a thick 48" mattress better than they stay on
a 56" mattress. At least that how it works for me. The larger size sheet
laps under further and don't pull out as rapidly. That's using queen
size on a full size mattress that's a little thick.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 12:48:24 -0500
From: "Dick Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Axle replacement

After reading through the new FAQs page I am somewhat encouraged to pursue replacing 
the Axle on Bambi.  I found a Dexter supplier reasonably nearby that seems 
knowledgable.  I have three related questions:  1) Joy have you completed your 
replacement and can you give us an update.  2) How can I determine the correct angle 
to specify for the torsion arm?  3) They make a 2000 pound and a 3500 pound axle.  The 
original dry weight of this trailer was about 1875 pounds.  Am I correct that the 2000 
pound axle is too light meaning that I should order the 3500 pound axle?  I'm thinking 
that adding just the propane tanks and battery get me to the 2000 pound limit (of 
course some of the weight is on the tow vehicle).  Or will the 3500 pound axle be too 
stiff?  

Thanks.  If there's anything else I need to know please jump in.

Dick
'62 Bambi
"We're all in this together--by ourselves"  Lily Tomlin
- -- 
__________________________________________________________
Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com
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http://corp.mail.com/lavalife

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 10:56:00 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Double Bed

Jimbo

Look in the camping world catalog - they have mattress in the size you are 
looking for.

If anyone has experience with these mattresses, I would like to know as we 
are thinking about getting one.

Ken Johansen
5358
59 Traveler
75 Tradewind

At 10:30 AM 1/7/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>I'm wanting to convert the twin bed setup in
>my rear-bathroom coach into a double bed.  All
>of the original stuff has already been removed
>and set aside.
>
>Looking at the floorplan in the service manual,
>it looks as though Airstream used a 48" x 75"
>mattress in the double bed configuration.  Does
>anybody have one of these?  Am I correct on that
>size?  Can 2 adults sleep comfortably on it?
>And are fitted sheets available, or do you have
>to make your own?
>
>Or...
>Anybody ever put a regular full size bed in one
>of these trailers?  That's a 54" x 75" mattress.
>Looks like that'd block a big part of the door
>opening into the bathroom.  Not sure what other
>sorts of problems might crop up either.  There
>would still be room for an isle and some sort
>of storage against the opposite wall.  And there
>is room to move the whole bed forward about 5"
>which could make the bathroom more accessible.
>(?)
>
>Not sure what I'm going to do.  I'd like to
>hear any experiences or thoughts regarding any
>of this from anybody here.  Thanks.
>
>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 12:42:40 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Axle replacement

I think the Dexter axle will have varying load capacity depending on the
arm angle. It will be most flexible with the arms horizontal, and
stiffest with the arms vertical. There's a compromise position in
between. The 2000 and 3500 pound ratings are probably based on the
spindle and bearing sizes. The 3500 pound parts will be significantly
more rugged. It would be better for the trailer for the spring rate to
match the load actually applied and that effective spring rate will
depend on the arm angle.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 12:25:06 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank

How big a tank are you talking about? I have a small one out of a 57 
Bubble available - maybe 7 whole GALLONS. Jo Ann
On Tuesday, January 7, 2003, at 09:25 AM, chyde wrote:

> Scott,
> Both of my trailers, 57 Sovereign of the Road and 59 Ambassador
> International have Aluminum pressurized water tanks. Why not go on the 
> hunt
> for an earlier tank from a junker? There must be one around somewhere.
> Colin Hyde
>
>> discovered that the old galvanized fresh water tank has sprung a slow
> leak.
>> :-(  I guess that 42 years was its limit! I seem to remember that this
> topic
>> came up last year and that someone had found a source for these 
>> galvanized
>> cylindrical tanks.
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 18:28:17 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Re: Florida

on 01/04/03 12:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hi Terry,
> 
> Just caught your posting on some free camp sites. I sure could use some
> specifics on the county parks in the panhandle and also the ones on 41 down
> south although if you are going to be at Sarasota I could get the last from
> you there. The attached may be of some help, keeping in mind some of the free
> ones are now $5.00 with out a discount for old age.
> 
> Rick
> 
- --------------

Hi Rick - it's been a long time since we've chatted,

The three county parks I mentioned in the panhandle are along route 20 east
of Blountstown. I can't give you exact locations because we've been to them
only once. Two didn't make our list as "keepers." We didn't stay at either
of them - even after finding them.

The third one is well marked. It's near Silver Lake. The camping area has a
bathroom building on a knoll overlooking the parking lot for boaters. That
description isn't much to go on, but we had no trouble finding it the first
time - and we were only casually looking. We've used it twice.

There is an easy to find campground in St. Marks on US 98 south of
Tallahassee at Apalachee Bay. The St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge is
across the street. The last time we stayed there, it was a mess with the new
bridge being built. This campground has "tiny" sites, but in a pinch we
parked on the macadam near the rest rooms. A second time, we pulled into a
grassy area (sign said, "picnics only") on the left as we entered the
campground. It was after dark, raining and no one hassled us. We've never
been charged for staying there and we've never seen anyone to offer our
money.

You may already know of the four free parks in the Apalachicola National
Forest. Although we've stayed at each of them, they're too far off the
beaten path for us and on soft dusty roads. We wouldn't go to any of them if
it had been raining.

The RV Service Center in Pensacola (Exit 10B off I-10) at the rear of the
Hill Kelly Dodge dealership is always an easy stop, especially if arriving
Sunday afternoon.

There is plenty of space and there are electric hookups on the left side of
the building, plus a dump station hole near the building's left corner.  The
workers arrive around 6:30am. The Service Center opens at 7:00am. Their
parts supply inventory is large enough so we always find something to buy. I
like their workmanship, so I always have something done. The service manager
is Pat Lassiter; the order writer is DeeDee.

At the other end of I-10 toward Jacksonville, there is Ocean Pond in the
Osceola National Forest. We've found it very convenient from I-10. There
used to be a small fee but we haven't stopped there is a few years so the
fee may no longer be small. The entrance is near Olustee, Florida.

The boondock sites along Alligator Alley are easily visible from the road on
US41. You'll have no trouble locating them. They are in Big Cypress National
Preserve. Each area has a self-appointed "Mayor" who can help you get parked
and keep some orderliness in what may appear to be total chaos. The COE
campground nearby costs $15 unless you have a Golden Age Passport. There is
a fee to use the dump station if not staying in the campground.

Thanks for the attachment covering the Ocala Forest campgrounds. We've been
to each of those and some are literally out in nowheresville. The forest
roads can be smooth or washboard or muddy. The one at Lake Delancy is the
only one to make our "keeper" list.

Yes, we plan to attend the Sarasota Rally in February, although we're still
looking for the Blue Beret issue with that data in it.

As an aside, today we looked at a '78 28' Avion with flawless aluminum skin
and equally flawless interior woodwork, plus EVERYTHING (and I mean
everything) worked and was included (even the hitch and tow bars). If we had
any interest in a smaller trailer with new batteries, tires and a
perfectionistic owner, this one would have excited us. The only thing it
needs is a good scrubbing of the exterior and cleaning of the interior.
$8,000 for the trailer seemed like a reasonable asking price.  The owners
are in their late 80s and will never tow again.

Are you still in the trailer delivery business? If we buy another Airstream
(we look at one tomorrow and another the next day), it will be from a
private party which means two Airstreams will need to go north in the
Spring. I could take one and a week later, come back for the other, but
maybe I won't feel like doing that.  The easiest way to purchase is to buy
from a dealer and trade our old one, but taking a financial shellacking
doesn't interest me.

As you can tell, we're rolling again which means picking up our email may be
sporadic, plus reading and answering email doesn't happen as quickly.  You
know the story.

Hope some of this will prove useful to you,

Terry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 18:28:17 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Indio - County Park 

on 01/05/03 11:45 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I'm planning a trip to the Indio - Palm Springs, CA area and need a
> recommendation for a place to stay in my '76 Tradewind 25', please.
> 
Hi Marv,

Why don't you use the County Park?

It's called Lake Cahulla Recreation Area and is 4 miles SW of Indio off SR
111 via Monroe Street to Avenue 58. We've always been able to get a site
there during the Winter. It's well marked with brown signs. Finding it is
fairly straight forward.

Although the directions include street and avenue names, the park is located
in a semi-rural area with mountains in the background. The lake is man made
and the campsites are all around it.

If you are a member of AAA, why don't you pick up the Southern & Central
California Camping map? It has more than 650 campgrounds listed. That can
dramatically increase your options. The AAA "Camp Books" often include
campgrounds which are not listed in the big, fat directories of high priced
campgrounds. More than once, those little booklets saved our bacon.

The first time we went into Indio from the county park, it seemed like a
long distance to go, but after several trips, four or five miles were
nothing. While there, we picked up the city map which made it even easier to
find our way around.

Dittos on Bob Kiger's suggestion for visiting the Slabs. As you approach the
turn off into the Slabs, notice what kind of stores are available - in case
you need something. Take your camera and get a picture of the entrance
scene. It'll be good for a laugh every time you look at it.

Also, while you're in the general Salton Sea area, the Date farms have all
sorts of specials, including a free movie and date milk shakes. You may have
already done that, but if not, we found the movie more than interesting. Did
you know there are male and female date trees? We didn't. Now we know which
is which. While at the date farm, we bought bags of dates, learned recipes
we'd never heard of before and to this day, still enjoy cooking with dates.
Some of life's pleasures include the mundane. <grin>

Have a good time, 

Terry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 18:38:34 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] Double Bed

My tradewind double has a 48x75in  doublr der howeaver it was on a pull out 
and the matress was in 2 parts. It was the ultimate tourcher rack I converted 
it to a Jackknife sofa bed I made an oak and plywood frame and used the 
newconfort foam one now cannot notice the seam in the center. the only down 
side is that it is n0w 44x75 in. Can 2 sleepin confort on it I guess it 
depends on your size and how friendly you are. Mary and I soent over 4 months 
on it this summer with no provlums.we are average size persons.I chose the 
double because of the extry storage space versis the twin. 
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewin(The Silver Abaltross)
1982 Dodge Cummins Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 18:39:19 -0700
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] Double Bed

Jim,
I'm just finishing up the interior on my '68 Ambassador.  It was initially a
twin bed setup.  I tried to put at least a queen bed in the center section,
but couldn't move the walls in the rear bath, so I couldn't get the
clearance and still move around the bed.  I ended up making a pull-out
double bed with three sections of dense foam for the mattress.  It is about
56X76, but I will have to check my receipts and measure to make sure of the
actual size.  It is not a standard size so I looked for the dense foam for
the mattress.  There are several mattress mfgs. out there that will makea
custom size, but they are VERY expensive.  I also have a '60 safari with a
middle bedroom and it has a "double" bed in it.  It is too small for two
mature adults, but does have a foam mattress and I've been very happy with
it.  Anyway, I made a pull out plywood bottom with 1X4 frame that pulls out
and makes the bed.  It is still not as roomy as our king bed, but is large
enough for the two of us and still leaves enough room to go forward or to
the rear bath.  I built a dresser on the opposite side and it is wonderful
to have all of the storage space.  I've got some pictures on my site at
http://groups.msn.com/Petesairstreampix although it doesn't show the bed
extended.  I found the foam at
http://www.knoxfoam.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/?E+scstore.  I ussed their
custom foam with waterproof covers and am very pleased.  (no financial
interest or otherwise).  If you have any other questions or want additional
pictures or information please contact me off list.
Good Luck!
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 20:50:51 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VACList] Hitch

Did you sell the hitch on ebay?  If not, let me hear from you.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 20:26:34 -0600
From: Herb Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank

I can't directly answer your 2 questions. But when I replaced my round tank I
had another constraint that turned out to be the hardest to solve. I have a 63
Globetrotter that has the water tank across the front and a neat brass filler on
the front of the coach near the gas bottles. I wanted to leave this original
filler where it was and keep it functional. I found several local dealers could
order the round galvanized tank for about $600. But the original tank had a pipe
welded into the side of the tank for the brass filler to connect to. It appeared
to me that has been added to the tank at the Airstream Factory. On a new metal
tank I would have had to find a local welder to add that to the new tank.
A plastic tank from Allrite was half the cost and I though that it would be
easier to cut holes and add the required outlet/inlets in the plastic. 'Twas
easy to cut the holes but I never could get the "twist to tighten"
inlet/outlets" to stop leaking. Tried epoxy and silicon to glue them in but
leaks would spring up after a few trips. I finally pulled the tank and shipped
it back to Allrite and had them "plastic or spin weld" the required threaded
fittings into the holes I had cut. So if you go the plastic route consider
getting the supplier to weld in the fittings you will need.


I thought about welding or soldering the pinholes in my metal tank but when I
closely examined the bottom of the tank I could see many other rust spots that
weren't leaking yet.

I have a can of POR15s brand of gas tank sealer. It states on the label "Harmful
or fatal if swallowed ...." But thats before it dries. You also have to use
several cleaners to prep the inside of the tank. Typically something to clean
out the gum and varnish and then a metal prep.

Scott Scheuermann wrote:

> Well, our annual Christmas break trip from Cleveland to Tampa and back went
> almost without a hitch. The weather cooperated for the entire trip. However
> while in Florida I took advantage of the warm weather to do some repairs and
> discovered that the old galvanized fresh water tank has sprung a slow leak.
> :-(  I guess that 42 years was its limit! I seem to remember that this topic
> came up last year and that someone had found a source for these galvanized
> cylindrical tanks. I will look up the specifics later, but my question is
> has anyone actually purchased a tank from these people? If anyone has,
> please share your experiences. From what I remember they were quite pricey,
> but may be worth the cost for me since I would want to make major
> modifications to the plumbing if I were to replace the pressure tank and air
> pump with the modern standards. As much as I would like to make the
> modifications I just don't see having the time to do this before needing to
> be back on the road with her again.
>
> Another, less costly option I am considering is to remove the old tank and
> see if I could find someone to line it with the stuff they use for rusted
> out automotive gasoline tanks. Does anyone know if the stuff is safe to use
> for a drinking water tank?
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 20:48:00 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] pressure water tank

Greetings Scott!

When I saw your post earlier today, I thought that I had seen listings
for new tanks.  I found them in my Kampers Supply Catalog this evening:

#88-1015  11.9 Gallon Galvanized $406.00 - - (12" Diameter x 26" Long)
#88-1016  18.9 Gallon Galvanized $433.00 - - (12" Diameter x 40" Long)
#88-1017  27.1 Gallon Galvanized $562.00 - - (12" Diameter x 56" Long)
#88-1018  25.0 Gallon Galvanized $574.00 - - (14" Diameter x 40" Long)

The specifications include the following information:

Hot dipped galvanized, 100 p.s.i. working pressure, meets all IAMPO
standards, 1.25" NPT Fill, .50" NPT outlet, and 3/8" drain.

The Web URL:

http://www.kampersupply.com
e-mail:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone:  618-985-6959

This data is from the Brand X dealer who has performed most of my brake
work on the Overlander and is my choice when I am too far from Ace
Fogdall to get into their shop.

Good luck in locating a replacement tank for your Overlander.

Kevin 

Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Scott Scheuermann
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 11:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VACList] pressure water tank

Well, our annual Christmas break trip from Cleveland to Tampa and back
went
almost without a hitch. The weather cooperated for the entire trip.
However
while in Florida I took advantage of the warm weather to do some repairs
and
discovered that the old galvanized fresh water tank has sprung a slow
leak.
:-(  I guess that 42 years was its limit! I seem to remember that this
topic
came up last year and that someone had found a source for these
galvanized
cylindrical tanks. I will look up the specifics later, but my question
is
has anyone actually purchased a tank from these people? If anyone has,
please share your experiences. From what I remember they were quite
pricey,
but may be worth the cost for me since I would want to make major
modifications to the plumbing if I were to replace the pressure tank and
air
pump with the modern standards. As much as I would like to make the
modifications I just don't see having the time to do this before needing
to
be back on the road with her again.

Another, less costly option I am considering is to remove the old tank
and
see if I could find someone to line it with the stuff they use for
rusted
out automotive gasoline tanks. Does anyone know if the stuff is safe to
use
for a drinking water tank?

Scott
1960 Overlander

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 19:29:11 -0800
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Our "new" 1955 Sovereign, help!

Dr. J's recommendations are VERY conservative. Overly conservative, in 
my experience, but certainly on the safe side.

Original equipment was a 2" hitch ball.

This year model does not have the central pipe type of frame.

Best regards,

Rik


Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:

>Hitch ball size could be somewhere between 1-7/8 and 2-5/16".
>
>There have been several glowing reports on this list of how that vintage
>trailer frame was found to be rusted into sponge and that trying to tow
>would have pulled the front 6' of frame central pipe out of the trailer
>leaving the rest of the trailer behind to crash into trees and oncoming
>traffic on its own.
>
>Gerald J.
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 23:25:45 -0500
From: Dick Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] pressure water tank

>[snip]
>
>The Web URL:
>
>http://www.kampersupply.com

You need a double "s" in there.

- - Dick
(5368)

"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
  -Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
- ---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:12:33 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] History of Mobile Homes & Trailers - Website

I stumbled across this interesting link to a Harvard
Business Study on Manuafctured Housing.  The link
below is to the Trailer section timeline.  Thought
this crowd might enjoy the mini vinettes, which
parallel Bryan Burkhart's latest book on trailer
travel.

http://www.gsd.harvard.edu/studios/s97/burns/trailer.html

John Leggett
1968 Safari 22

__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 01:23:37 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Double Bed

I have a '60 Overlander with twins. I made a removable platform (4 pieces)
that stow away in the rear closet to convert the twins into a king. The foam
needed to fill in the mattress is in two pieces and stow on the twins as a
sofa back. The only problem is no access to the bathroom while the bed is in
place. Unless you call crawling over the bed access! No problem yet as our
son is still in diapers and we stow the bed away each morning.

Scott

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 11:30 AM
Subject: [VACList] Double Bed


> I'm wanting to convert the twin bed setup in
> my rear-bathroom coach into a double bed.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 01:41:27 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank

Herb, I have the same tank set up that you had. I also would like to keep
the original front fill.

Scott

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Spies" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank


> I can't directly answer your 2 questions. But when I replaced my round
tank I
> had another constraint that turned out to be the hardest to solve. I have
a 63
> Globetrotter that has the water tank across the front and a neat brass
filler on
> the front of the coach near the gas bottles. I wanted to leave this
original
> filler where it was and keep it functional. I found several local dealers
could
> order the round galvanized tank for about $600. But the original tank had
a pipe
> welded into the side of the tank for the brass filler to connect to. It
appeared
> to me that has been added to the tank at the Airstream Factory. On a new
metal
> tank I would have had to find a local welder to add that to the new tank.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 01:21:25 -0800
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] pressure water tank

This is just a suggestion... but given how pricey those tanks are, you 
might look at an outfit that conditions water, such as (around here) 
Culligan. IIRC, they have galvanized tanks of various sizes made to hold 
water under pressure. A pump store is another possibility. Some pressure 
tanks (including one I have here) look pretty much like the under-bed 
tanks in those old 'Streams. Just a thought, FWIW...maybe nothing  ~ Rik

Kevin D Allen wrote:

>Greetings Scott!
>
>When I saw your post earlier today, I thought that I had seen listings
>for new tanks.  I found them in my Kampers Supply Catalog this evening:
>
>#88-1015  11.9 Gallon Galvanized $406.00 - - (12" Diameter x 26" Long)
>#88-1016  18.9 Gallon Galvanized $433.00 - - (12" Diameter x 40" Long)
>#88-1017  27.1 Gallon Galvanized $562.00 - - (12" Diameter x 56" Long)
>#88-1018  25.0 Gallon Galvanized $574.00 - - (14" Diameter x 40" Long)
>
>The specifications include the following information:
>
>Hot dipped galvanized, 100 p.s.i. working pressure, meets all IAMPO
>standards, 1.25" NPT Fill, .50" NPT outlet, and 3/8" drain.
>
>The Web URL:
>
>http://www.kampersupply.com
>e-mail:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Phone:  618-985-6959
>
>This data is from the Brand X dealer who has performed most of my brake
>work on the Overlander and is my choice when I am too far from Ace
>Fogdall to get into their shop.
>
>Good luck in locating a replacement tank for your Overlander.
>
>Kevin 
>
>Kevin D. Allen
>1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
>1978 Argosy Minuet
>1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
>WBCCI/VAC #6359
> 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
>Scott Scheuermann
>Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 11:15 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [VACList] pressure water tank
>
>Well, our annual Christmas break trip from Cleveland to Tampa and back
>went
>almost without a hitch. The weather cooperated for the entire trip.
>However
>while in Florida I took advantage of the warm weather to do some repairs
>and
>discovered that the old galvanized fresh water tank has sprung a slow
>leak.
>:-(  I guess that 42 years was its limit! I seem to remember that this
>topic
>came up last year and that someone had found a source for these
>galvanized
>cylindrical tanks. I will look up the specifics later, but my question
>is
>has anyone actually purchased a tank from these people? If anyone has,
>please share your experiences. From what I remember they were quite
>pricey,
>but may be worth the cost for me since I would want to make major
>modifications to the plumbing if I were to replace the pressure tank and
>air
>pump with the modern standards. As much as I would like to make the
>modifications I just don't see having the time to do this before needing
>to
>be back on the road with her again.
>
>Another, less costly option I am considering is to remove the old tank
>and
>see if I could find someone to line it with the stuff they use for
>rusted
>out automotive gasoline tanks. Does anyone know if the stuff is safe to
>use
>for a drinking water tank?
>
>Scott
>1960 Overlander
>
>
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 01:40:45 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] History of Mobile Homes & Trailers - Website

John - pretty cute site. I was curious about the Caravan model - quite 
recent but as weird looking as one of the very earliest attempts at 
aerodynamic design. Thanks.
Jo Ann
On Tuesday, January 7, 2003, at 10:12 PM, John Leggett wrote:

> I stumbled across this interesting link to a Harvard
> Business Study on Manuafctured Housing.  The link
> below is to the Trailer section timeline.  Thought
> this crowd might enjoy the mini vinettes, which
> parallel Bryan Burkhart's latest book on trailer
> travel.
>
> http://www.gsd.harvard.edu/studios/s97/burns/trailer.html
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari 22
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 06:50:33 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Double Bed

Here's a company making custom mattresses. I plan to have them make my 
mattress and will visit them to delivery the template of a mattress with 
two rounded corners. I'll let the list know how well it turns out.

http://www.sdiproducts.com/sdiproducts/rvmattress.html

Bob Patterson

------------------------------

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