VACList Digest         Thursday, March 6 2003         Volume 03 : Number 123



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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VACList] 1960's Airstream Sales Catalogs
Re: [VACList] Gel Coat
Re: [VACList] 1960's Airstream Sales Catalogs
[VACList] Tires
Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit
Re: [VACList] Changing the color of cabinets
Re: [VACList] Tires
Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit
[VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic
Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic
Re: [VACList] registering an Airstream  California VIN
Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit
Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic
RE: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic
Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic
Re: [VACList] Changing the color of cabinets
[VACList] New propane lines?
Re: [VACList] registering an Airstream  California VIN
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
Re: [VACList] original owner
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
Re:[VACList] marine plywood sources
Re: [VACList] original owner
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
[VACList] Changing the color of cabinets
Re: [VACList] original owner
Re: [VACList] original owner
Re: [VACList] toilet replacement
[VACList] Re: [VAC] Re: Refrigerator Problems
[VACList] Liftime Warranty/Floors
Re: [VACList] New propane lines?
RE: [VACList] original owner

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 08:21:20 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] 1960's Airstream Sales Catalogs

I know that Pearl Main is an original owner and still gets service on  her 
Airstream. 
She has been in the hospital lately and I don't know if she is still on line?


Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 09:30:36 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Gel Coat

> > Also, I have been told that the bathroom furniture on
> > my 68 can be gelcoated.  Has anyone actually done this
> > successfully?  If so, any recommendations on who/where
> > to buy materials from?

Gelcoat is typically used as surface material in the production of
Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) components. It is sprayed or brushed
onto the mold before the glass fibers and resin (lay-up) are applied.
Gelcoat needs to cure for several hours before applying the lay-up,
otherwise the glass fibers will migrate to the mold surface of the gelcoat.
The color will be correct, however there will be a mottled abstract fiber
look to the surface when the part is removed from the mold. If you try to
apply gelcoat to an exterior surface (not using a mold) similar to painting,
you will require an additive to the gelcoat called "air dry". If you do not
use this additive the gelcoat will only dry to the tacky state.  In the
context of this discussion I believe that gelcoat is not the correct
material to be used for refinishing bathroom fixtures. Keep in mind that
many Boat Builders have begun to paint fresh gelcoated hulls at the factory.
There are a great many excellent two part Automotive paints out there that
are tougher than gelcoat, more resistant to UV's and will adhere to most
plastics. Color selection is much better as well. You will not be able to
use abrasive cleaners on them but you shouldn't be using them on gelcoated
surfaces either.
Just my .02 cents worth
Colin Hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 10:02:21 -0500
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 1960's Airstream Sales Catalogs

Pearl posted a reply to this thread just yesterday and indeed, she is an
original owner. Anyone else?

My Overlander was owned by the same couple since new until 8 or 9 years ago.
Then it changed hands several times before I got my hands on it. The story
is that it summered in upstate NY and then wintered in AZ every year from
about 1965 through the 80's.

Phil Renner
63 Overlander (also pulled by a car)



> I know that Pearl Main is an original owner and still gets service on  her
> Airstream.
> She has been in the hospital lately and I don't know if she is still on
line?
>
>
> Just Plain Polly
> 1964 Globe Trotter
> Colorado
> WBCCI 7113

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 11:28:04 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VACList] Tires

Hello out there: Have a question about tires.  I can purchase 4 Goodyear 
Marathons from the local discount tire for 85.00 each.  This includes 
balancing.  These will go on my 69 25 ft Tradewind tandem axle.  The date of 
manufacture indicates that these tires are 17 months old.  I have read in the 
archives that old tires may be a problem.  How old is my question?  Have any 
of you out there had trouble with Goodyear Marathons Load Range C.  Have they 
failed and has the reason been because they were older tires when you bought 
them?  I have also read that Good year Marathons in load range D were having 
problems about 1 or 2 years ago and the factory had done a silent recall 
(whatever that means).  Have there been any problems with the Marathons in 
Load Range C?
Tom Fairbank     
69 25 Ft Tradewind (needs new tires)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 11:31:53 -0500
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit

3/4/2003 5:49:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> after i set up camp I can tour in a smoth riding car.

and I can tour with my smoooth (sic) riding van with the overstuffed easy chairs, 
couch, plenty of room for two big dogs and headroom for wife and I, really staunch 
cupholders (for the Margueritas?), CD stereo, and the same footprint as a Caprice.  
Besides, more often than not I tour with the a/s behind.  

              -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
bicycle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 11:53:40 -0500
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Changing the color of cabinets

3/4/2003 4:09:34 PM, BRHAB <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> "wood look" made from plastic type material. She
>very much wants to get rid of that look either by painting, 
>covering, etc...  

You already have several good answers.  However, here is another suggestion: the 
"plastic type material" is thin laminate, mostly held into channels by friction.  Have 
you 
considered replacing part/all of it with another material -- possibly leather, or 
another 
laminate?

               -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
bicycle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 11:54:20 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Tires

Tom,

As far as I have heard there were no problems with the load range "C" tires,
just the "D's" though I am sure someone out there has a horror story (there
is always at least one!) I have gotten very good service from both the old
and new "D's". The price sounds very good to me for Goodyear Marathons. I
believe that I heard that 5 to 7 years is the life expectancy for the tires.

Scott
60 Overlander, single axle

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Hello out there: Have a question about tires.  I can purchase 4 Goodyear
> Marathons from the local discount tire for 85.00 each.  This includes
> balancing.  These will go on my 69 25 ft Tradewind tandem axle.  The date
of
> manufacture indicates that these tires are 17 months old.  I have read in
the
> archives that old tires may be a problem.  How old is my question?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 12:34:26 -0500
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit

But can you park it in the garage??

Phil
<h2>:>)</H2>


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit


> 3/4/2003 5:49:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > after i set up camp I can tour in a smoth riding car.
>
> and I can tour with my smoooth (sic) riding van with the overstuffed easy
chairs,
> couch, plenty of room for two big dogs and headroom for wife and I, really
staunch
> cupholders (for the Margueritas?), CD stereo, and the same footprint as a
Caprice.
> Besides, more often than not I tour with the a/s behind.
>
>               -- Lew #4239
>
> '72 Safari
> bicycle
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 12:42:33 -0500 
From: "Grover, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

Hello everyone,
I have been a quiet reader for 2 years now and have managed to restore and
use my 68 many times over the last 3 years due to this list and the valuable
info in the archives. I realize this is a vintage group but I also know that
many of you have more than 1 dreamstream.I find our children getting bigger
and need more room and have an opportunity to buy a 93 29ft center bath
Classic.Is there any reason not to consider this purchase? 

Also, I have recently purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Crewcab,8.1
liter to tow my 68 and find the hitch height to be much higher and now need
to use an 8 inch dropdown ball mount.With the heavy duty truck I find no
sway when towing without the weight distrubution hitch and very little squat
on the suspension of the truck.Is there any reason to use wt dist hitch/sway
control bar with the newer HD pickups.

Thanks for considering my questions,
John
'68 26' Overlander
Atlanta 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 10:30:22 -0800
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

John - you might consider joining Hunter's 'Airstream List' over at
www.yahoogroups.com ...you've probably encountered many of their posts since
they share the Patterson archives.

I've towed all sorts of things with all sorts of tow-vehicles for some 25+
years, and absolutely recommend using load distribution hitches whenever
possible (e.g., rental trailers a la 'u-haul' use a surge-brake mechanism
which precludes using the trunnion bars).

I've been using a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 for the past six months or so, and
have found that the truck's suspension actually 'rides' much better with a
few hundred pounds in the truck bed or tongue-weight on the hitch, but it is
important to consider the dynamics of trailer towing... just because it tows
level on the flat at highway speeds doesn't mean that hitting a bump, or
sudden braking, won't cause the trailer to dive or squat, and thus change
your Silverado's ability to safely maneuver. Simple load distribution bars
(EZ-lift), Reese Dual-cam hitches, the Pull-Rite, and the extra-pricey
Hensley 'Arrow' all have their supporters/detractors, but i think that
they'd all agree that some sort of load-distribution is necessary for safe
handling in those unexpected situations.

There is some controversy over the use of friction-bar type sway control -
they don't really 'control sway', but they do provide some resistance to
sway so that it doesn't get started, under normal conditions - but it's a
bit of a PITA to get out and loosen it up when i need to back up, for
example. Also, your load-distribution hitch will provide some similar
resistance to sway-initiation. Still, i use one when i can. I can't right
now because i bent the sway bar backing my little 500 lb. luggage trailer.

Tuna
Reno, NV


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Grover, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 9:42 AM
Subject: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic


> Hello everyone,
> I have been a quiet reader for 2 years now and have managed to restore and
> use my 68 many times over the last 3 years due to this list and the
valuable
> info in the archives. I realize this is a vintage group but I also know
that
> many of you have more than 1 dreamstream.I find our children getting
bigger
> and need more room and have an opportunity to buy a 93 29ft center bath
> Classic.Is there any reason not to consider this purchase?
>
> Also, I have recently purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Crewcab,8.1
> liter to tow my 68 and find the hitch height to be much higher and now
need
> to use an 8 inch dropdown ball mount.With the heavy duty truck I find no
> sway when towing without the weight distrubution hitch and very little
squat
> on the suspension of the truck.Is there any reason to use wt dist
hitch/sway
> control bar with the newer HD pickups.
>
> Thanks for considering my questions,
> John
> '68 26' Overlander
> Atlanta
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 12:03:52 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] registering an Airstream  California VIN

> We can attest to the difficulty of dealing with the CA DMV.  We bought out
> Globetrotter from Dan at Vintage Campers in Indiana and had it towed here
(to
> Riverside) by Rick Davis.  I called the DMV to determine how we register
it
> and found that it involved taking paperwork to the DMV (get an
appointment,
> wait in line anyway, deal with red tape, etc. ) to get a temporary
> registration so that we could take it on the road to the DMV to show them
the
> VIN number.  We had never towed anything in our lives.  But we hooked up
the
> Suburban and made our way 3 miles to the DMV office terrified that we'd
hit
> someone, nervous about every rattle and bump we'd heard (we pulled over
> twice) and anxious that we'd really gotten in over our heads with
> insufficient preparation.

Hi Virginia:

Not to beat this thing to death but.....

Had you downloaded the form #343 - Application for Title or Transfer from
the DMV website you would find that it has a page 2.  This page is called
Verification of Vehicle.  It must not be filled out by the applicant but CAN
be filled out by a peace officer or an authorized employee of AAA.  The
beauty of having a peace officer (Dep Sheriff, local gendarme, whatever) is
that you wouldn't have had to take the trailer to either the DMV or the AAA
office.

Now I would think that even Bob would concede that filling out a piece of
paper is easier than hauling the trailer to either place.  Especially the
way it unfortunately turned out for you.

GQ '67 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 15:23:33 -0500
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] 60's sales lit

3/5/2003 7:34:26 AM, Phil Renner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>But can you park it in the garage??

Garage?

                -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
bicycle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 16:12:34 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

John, I also tow my Overlander with a 3/4 ton vehicle. While the tow
vehicle's suspension definetly does not need the help of the weight
distribution bars I do find that the ride quality of the truck is better
with the bars installed. A properly set up hitch under normal driving
conditions will not normally need sway control - there are exceptions
HOWEVER and just like seat belts, you don't need them until you are in an
accident, then its too late to put them on. Besides sway control is the law
in some places.

Scott


I tow
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Grover, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 12:42 PM
Subject: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic


> Hello everyone,
> I have been a quiet reader for 2 years now and have managed to restore and
> use my 68 many times over the last 3 years due to this list and the
valuable
> info in the archives. I realize this is a vintage group but I also know
that
> many of you have more than 1 dreamstream.I find our children getting
bigger
> and need more room and have an opportunity to buy a 93 29ft center bath
> Classic.Is there any reason not to consider this purchase?
>
> Also, I have recently purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Crewcab,8.1
> liter to tow my 68 and find the hitch height to be much higher and now
need
> to use an 8 inch dropdown ball mount.With the heavy duty truck I find no
> sway when towing without the weight distrubution hitch and very little
squat
> on the suspension of the truck.Is there any reason to use wt dist
hitch/sway
> control bar with the newer HD pickups.
>
> Thanks for considering my questions,
> John
> '68 26' Overlander
> Atlanta
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 15:58:53 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

Greetings  John!

I concur with Scott.  When towing either my '64 Overlander or '78 Argosy
Minuet 6.0 Metre; I always use my weight distribution bars as well as my
Dual Cam Sway Control (Overlander) or DrawTite Friction Sway Control
(Minuet).  In both cases, this is towing with my '99 GMC K2500 Suburban
with 10,000 lb. trailer towing package.  Granted, neither trailer causes
much more than 1" of deflection in the Suburban's suspension (actually
virtually none with the Minuet), but the Suburban rides and handles more
securely in all situations with the properly adjusted weight
distributing hitch.  I am a regular friend of "Murphy's Law" to which
Scott can attest, so I err on the conservative side with anything that
might impact the overall safety of my towing combination.

Kevin   

Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Scott Scheuermann
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 3:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

John, I also tow my Overlander with a 3/4 ton vehicle. While the tow
vehicle's suspension definetly does not need the help of the weight
distribution bars I do find that the ride quality of the truck is better
with the bars installed. A properly set up hitch under normal driving
conditions will not normally need sway control - there are exceptions
HOWEVER and just like seat belts, you don't need them until you are in
an
accident, then its too late to put them on. Besides sway control is the
law
in some places.

Scott

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Grover, John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 12:42 PM
Subject: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic


> Hello everyone,
> I have been a quiet reader for 2 years now and have managed to restore
and
> use my 68 many times over the last 3 years due to this list and the
valuable
> info in the archives. I realize this is a vintage group but I also
know
that
> many of you have more than 1 dreamstream.I find our children getting
bigger
> and need more room and have an opportunity to buy a 93 29ft center
bath
> Classic.Is there any reason not to consider this purchase?
>
> Also, I have recently purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
Crewcab,8.1
> liter to tow my 68 and find the hitch height to be much higher and now
need
> to use an 8 inch dropdown ball mount.With the heavy duty truck I find
no
> sway when towing without the weight distrubution hitch and very little
squat
> on the suspension of the truck.Is there any reason to use wt dist
hitch/sway
> control bar with the newer HD pickups.
>
> Thanks for considering my questions,
> John
> '68 26' Overlander
> Atlanta
>
> ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 17:55:30 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] RE:1968 26ft overlander vs 1993 29ft classic

I have towed my 25ft tradewind well over 20k miles in all weather conditions 
(rain wind and 99mph 18teen wheelers passing) both with my 3/4 ton suberan 
and now my DodgeCummins Diesel and have never found the need foe an equalsing 
hitch.But I have taken a lot of stsatic because I did not invest mega Bucks 
in an hitch.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind(the Silver Abaltross)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 15:53:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Bobby Gill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] Changing the color of cabinets

Paul 
I agree with Randy on just adding curtains etc... to change the look. I have a '73 
Ambassador that the previous owner tried covering the wood with wallpaper. What a 
mess. I got the fridge doors cleaned but there is still glue reside along the edge of 
the wall by the fridge. Future project is to remove wall to get all residue off and 
reinstall the original wood (plastic/fake stuff). We (my wife) opted to change 
curtains to an outdoors pattern with nice colors. I can't descibe them though (other 
than there is green and animals on them) because thats her department I just agree 
that I like them, which I do. I would diffently opt to keep as much original as 
possible.
Bobby 
> 
1973 27'. As most of you know, Airstream
started using a "wood look" made from plastic type material. She
very much wants to get rid of that look either by painting, 
covering, etc...  Has anyone done this to their Airstream? If
so, how?? What do you recommend.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 17:54:19 -0600
From: "Lee Pierce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] New propane lines?

[ Note: This mail was converted from HTML to text by majordomo.
        Formatting might be poor. ]

  I am restoring a 68 airstream and am replacing the whole propane
  system.

  The old propane lines from the regulator to the appliances appears to
  be copper with compression fittings. When I spoke to a plumming shop
  and an airconditioner shop, they all said not us use copper lines due
  to a chemical reaction between copper and natural gas. They said to
  use black pipe through the floor and then a commercial flex pipe to
  the appliance like they do in houses. The black pipe is not flexable
  so will be a real pain.

  So what should I use. The copper seems to have lasted 30 years, it
  was just crushed by a missplaced jack. Can I use the copper?.

  What else is avaliable?

   

  Signed:

  Lee in Dallas.


  --------------------------------------------------------------------

  MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. Get 2 months FREE*.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 18:56:29 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] registering an Airstream  California VIN

Gary,

You're quite right - I had a peace officer do my VIN verification because I
didn't have a tow vehicle when I bought the A/S.  I had to wait about a
week until somebody could come out, but she was right on time, and just
took a few minutes to complete the form and call Oregon to make sure the
VIN matched what they had. With my paperwork complete and an appointment,
the DMV took about ten minutes (unlike the time I got my motorcycle VIN
verified there, which was a nightmare of waiting for incompetent clerks,
much like Virginia's experience). 

Cheers,

Amanda
'68 Safari

Original Message:
- -----------------
From: Gary Quamen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 12:03:52 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] registering an Airstream  California VIN




Had you downloaded the form #343 - Application for Title or Transfer from
the DMV website you would find that it has a page 2.  This page is called
Verification of Vehicle.  It must not be filled out by the applicant but CAN
be filled out by a peace officer or an authorized employee of AAA.  The
beauty of having a peace officer (Dep Sheriff, local gendarme, whatever) is
that you wouldn't have had to take the trailer to either the DMV or the AAA
office.


- --------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 19:14:40 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

Lee Pierce wrote:


>  I am restoring a 68 airstream and am replacing the whole propane
>  system.
>
>  The old propane lines from the regulator to the appliances appears to
>  be copper with compression fittings. When I spoke to a plumming shop
>  and an airconditioner shop, they all said not us use copper lines due
>  to a chemical reaction between copper and natural gas. They said to
>  use black pipe through the floor and then a commercial flex pipe to
>  the appliance like they do in houses. The black pipe is not flexable
>  so will be a real pain.
>
>  So what should I use. The copper seems to have lasted 30 years, it
>  was just crushed by a missplaced jack. Can I use the copper?.
>
>  What else is avaliable?

        I would go ahead and just use copper- making sure that you buy
"type K" preferably, or "type L" if you cannot get "K". This will be
refrigeration type tubing- not the typical water pipe stuff sold at
home centers.
        Also- don't use compression fittings- just flare fittings. The
other option would be to use black iron as a manifold just back to the
axles, using black iron "T" fittings with brass mpt/male flare
fittings with copper running from there to the appliances- don't even
think about trying to run the black iron through the floor.

        Current code for RV gas systems does permit copper type K or L
in LP systems on the low pressure side- just not for the high pressure
(tank to regulator) pigtails. The standard setup now is for a flexible
"rubber" (not really rubber) section from the regulator to the
beginning of the "hard" pipe- which can be either copper or black
iron- (typically 3/4" pipe)- then 3/8" copper lines running to each
appliance.

- -- 
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 18:50:34 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

Propane is NOT natural gas. Copper works fine and is pretty much the
standard for propane in the country, at tank (200+ psi which iron can't
take) and low pressure. The copper propane lines to this house have been
here more than 40 years with no problems.

If only one line section has been damaged by the jack, why replace
everything?

Those commercial flex pipes do cause house fires when they break. And
they are sometimes a copper alloy.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 20:10:09 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] original owner

Glad to have you back on board, Pearl.  We missed you. 

Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 20:16:24 -0500
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

Copper lines are used for propane in houses to this day, there's no chemical
reaction. However, all fittings should be Flare-type, not compression. Flare
fittings are more resistant to vibration and over-tightening. If you're
going to DIY, get a flaring tool (not all that expensive) and practice a
bit. Also, check your completed work for leaks! I think I know what I'm
doing, but I've found more leaks than I like to admit in my work. :-(

                                               <<Jim>>

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>

- -----Original Message-----
From: Lee Pierce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 7:55 PM
Subject: [VACList] New propane lines?


>[ Note: This mail was converted from HTML to text by majordomo.
>        Formatting might be poor. ]
>
>  I am restoring a 68 airstream and am replacing the whole propane
>  system.
>
>  The old propane lines from the regulator to the appliances appears to
>  be copper with compression fittings. When I spoke to a plumming shop
>  and an airconditioner shop, they all said not us use copper lines due
>  to a chemical reaction between copper and natural gas. They said to
>  use black pipe through the floor and then a commercial flex pipe to
>  the appliance like they do in houses. The black pipe is not flexable
>  so will be a real pain.
>
>  So what should I use. The copper seems to have lasted 30 years, it
>  was just crushed by a missplaced jack. Can I use the copper?.
>
>  What else is avaliable?
>
>
>
>  Signed:
>
>  Lee in Dallas.
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 17:34:13 -0800
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

Lee, your plumber friend might be correct about natural gas needing black
pipe, but your trailer uses propane.
Copper is just fine. Be sure to check the regulator, fittings, etc. with
soapy water for leaks, while you're at it.
Have fun!

Tuna
Reno, NV
'48 Trailwind

>   So what should I use. The copper seems to have lasted 30 years, it
>   was just crushed by a missplaced jack. Can I use the copper?.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 22:11:27 -0500
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

>         Also- don't use compression fittings- just flare fittings. The
>other option would be to use black iron as a manifold just back to the
>axles, using black iron "T" fittings with brass mpt/male flare
>fittings with copper running from there to the appliances- don't even
>think about trying to run the black iron through the floor.


Why shouldn't black pipe be put through the floor as long as you make the 
final connection to the appliance with a flexible hose?

Bob Patterson 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 22:11:58 -0500
From: John Sellers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:[VACList] marine plywood sources

Jon,

> Can anyone recommend a source of marine plywood?  The
> source should preferably be as close to Columbia, SC
> to reduce shipping costs.

Glen-L boat designs has a list of suppliers by state on their web site,
www.glen-l.com.  Go to that site and scroll down the menu on the left
side
until you get to "wood and plywood information".  Anchor Hardwood in
Wilmington,
NC looks like it might be a possibility.  As others have been pointed
out, you may also be able to special order marine plywood through a
local
lumber company.

> I would consider using exterior grade plywood (with
> waterproof glue).  However, the best grade I could
> find at the local home improvement place was pretty
> rough looking.  I would like my floor patches to be
> flat for the foreseeable future :)

Marine plywood is wonderful stuff to work with (if you don't think about
how expensive it is, as you saw into it!) but nice exterior plywood can
sometimes be found if you look for it.  In recent years our local lumber
yards have had some very nice BC exterior plywood made from southern
yellow pine.  I have built a couple of boats out of it with good
success.  Regardless of what grade of plywood you use, I second the
advice to seal the edges with epoxy.  (If I were replacing the whole
floor I would seal the whole floor with epoxy!)

John Sellers
WBCCI #1587
'60 Pacer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 19:22:10 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] original owner

Hi Kiddie:
    Glad you like the pot - it's perfect for 1 serving of oatmeal, 
grits, like-that. And it cost a grand total of $7.00 - isn't that 
terrific. I bought another one for Bubbles. Cleaned all the handguns - 
3 long guns to go. Then a former student called and came by - dinner 
and overnite which is fine cuz my little Irish cherub has choir 
practice tonight so I have company.
Got to get the running lights hooked up on the trailer and then tow it 
up to Paso Robles for an estimate on a new axle, electric brakes, etc. 
Architect and Eric and I to meet tomorrow for final plans.
    Got the Pismo house cleaned except for the carpet and that's soon. 
Boy they really wrecked it. Eric's going to go look at it tomorrow 
night with Mrs. Eric - maybe buy it??? I just don't want to keep going 
through this mess with tenants. No wonder land lords have a bad name. I 
feel myself getting meaner ever time someone moves out. The inner slob 
seems to rule most renters - at least the ones we get. Oh well.
JW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 22:22:02 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

tralers use propane, copper is ok but must use gas typ & fittings
i have in my house.

 mark
 67 safari

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 19:55:01 -0800
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Changing the color of cabinets

After I made nice slipcovers and cool vintage-looking curtains, I got used
to the look of my 70's Globetrotter. Still, I did sell that one in favor of
a nice 65 with beautiful mahogany woodwork, so I can understand your
friends' issues :) Lincoln Soule's rehab is fantastic, and there used to be
a guy on this list named Tim, who resurfaced all the cabinets with a very
thin veneer made of real birch - looked great. Maybe he'll surface during
this discussion. If that sounds too complicated, you can always paint over
the fake wood finish. There was an art teacher who sold a wonderful trailer
on Ebay, with cabinets totally custom-painted. He said the key was to
completely degrease the surface (i.e. with alcohol or TSP) before laying
down the base coat of white latex paint. On top of that, he used artists'
acrylics for the decorative painting. It looked amazing.
Kathy Fisken, Seattle
'65 Globetrotter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 20:45:46 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] original owner

Oh Lordy:
    That strange message to the entire list was meant to go to my 
sister-in-law. How humiliating. Sorry everyone. Yikes.
Jo Ann wheatley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Mar 2003 21:04:08 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] original owner

Don't worry about it at all.  E-mail Lists are like the old party line
telephones.   And you quickly develop a sense of humor about such things to
keep from going nuts....
- -- 
RJ
VAC Webmaster



On 3/5/03 8:45 PM, "Joann Wheatley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Oh Lordy:
>   That strange message to the entire list was meant to go to my
> sister-in-law. How humiliating. Sorry everyone. Yikes.
> Jo Ann wheatley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 22:25:35 -0700
From: "Earl Peck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] toilet replacement

Thanks to  all who responded to my questions about windows, shock absorbers
etc. but as you can see by the subject thread I am moving to the next
project.  From information gleaned from the list I have looked at the
Sealand Model 110. The first problem I see is that in my 65Overlander the
toilet sets down in a fiberglass type cabinet with the flushing pedal coming
thru a narrow slot in the same cabinet. I do not have the original toilet so
I don't have the pedal. My best guess is that I will have to have a pedal
made and then some how adapt it the the flushing mechanism to eliminate the
need to make the hole big enough in the fiberglass cabinet to pass that huge
stock pedal of the 110 thru. Has anyone tackled this problem yet, and am I
on the right track?   Thanks for all responses

Earl
1965 Overlander Intl. (a.k.a. Ms. Inez)
WBCCI 1965
02 Chev 2500HD
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an digest format, please go to
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>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 00:36:46 -0500
From: "Dash7 (Michigan)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Re: [VAC] Re: Refrigerator Problems

Hi Corbin,

This site has the info you are seeking.

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/manometer.html

Don (MI)


>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Corbin C Bates)
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Refrigerator Problems
>Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 20:58:28 -0400
>
>Andy,
>How do you make a "manometer" with some clear plastic tubing? Then how do 
>you use it to check the pressure?
>
>Corbin
>Have trailer will travel...


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 21:32:46 -0800
From: "Helen Countryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VACList] Liftime Warranty/Floors

Re:

Subject: Re: [VACList] 1960's Airstream Sales Catalogs

What a brochure! (I left the link below)

Items of note: The Lifetime Warranty (pg 29). Does this really mean that if
one of us were the original owner, we could have Airstream plant replace a
rotten floor at No Charge? Wow!

- --------------------------------------

Our 1964 Overlander has a lifetime warranty posted in the left rear
loset  -  applicable only for the original owner.  No, we are  note the
original owners.


However, roughly 25 years ago (we did have the trailer then) someone in the
Washington unit told us that their (1950s?) trailer had developed a floor
rot problem, and they did succeed in getting Airstream to replace the floor.
I think they had to take it to the factory for the repair.


NOTE:  For the people who live in Western Washington, on the East side of
Lake City Way in either Kenmore or Lake City there is a plywood company
which carries a special line of plywood which is specifically made to have
no voids in the two outside layers, and the outside surfaces are smooth
sanded  -  marine grade.  It is made for decks.


If you want to contact them, and can't find the name, ask  -  I think I can
look them up.


Lauren Countryman
23352



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "VACList Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 5:00 AM
Subject: VACList Digest V3 #121


>
> VACList Digest         Tuesday, March 4 2003         Volume 03 : Number
121
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 07:06:40 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [VACList] New propane lines?

Bob Patterson wrote:

<<..>>
>
>Why shouldn't black pipe be put through the floor as long as you make the 
>final connection to the appliance with a flexible hose?
>

        Mostly because not running it through the floor leaves more
connections- along with their possibilities of leaks-  outside the
trailer. 
        And... it's just a whole lot easier (c;

- -- 
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 06:23:21 -0600
From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [VACList] original owner

Whew!  Thought I had found a new bug in Outlook!!!

 
 
 
 
 
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell


- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Webmaster
Sent: Wednesday, 05 March 2003 23:04
To: VACList
Subject: Re: [VACList] original owner


Don't worry about it at all.  E-mail Lists are like the old party line
telephones.   And you quickly develop a sense of humor about such things to
keep from going nuts....
- -- 

------------------------------

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