Well, if the battery voltage eventually comes up to float voltage then you have 
enough current.
There is a tiny amount of current needed to maintain the charge.  

From: Adam Moffett 
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 12:23 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Battery Charging

Sorry, that was not supposed to be offlist.  Not used to the reply-all thing 
yet.
-Adam


On 6/19/2018 1:56 PM, Adam Moffett wrote:

  Something I've wondered about is whether there's a minimum charge current.  
If you have something like a Meanwell AD-155C then you have a whopping 155Watts 
to work with.  If you have 100W of load then you have 1amp of charge current.  
Then somebody maybe adds a couple of devices and now you have 125W of load and 
maybe 1/2 amp of charge current.

  I won't be concerned if the problem is that it took a month to fully charge, 
but is there a point where the charger is too weak and doesn't do anything?

  I'm also not currently using a charger that small on such a large battery, 
but in the past when I was doing everything on the cheap I've definitely put a 
Meanwell AD-155C on a 100ah 48v battery to power a few Canopy units.  It worked 
fine, but I always wondered if I was hurting something by having such a small 
charger.

  I'll definitely keep that 10-20% range in mind for the future, and thanks for 
sharing.

  Thanks,
  Adam



  On 6/19/2018 1:11 PM, [email protected] wrote:

    OK, finally got that IEEE whitepaper to load.  Nothing really new to me but 
they did point out a few things I had not thought of for a long time.  The main 
points to consider are as follows:

    You need to have a rectifier/charger large enough to carry the load plus 
produce no more than 20% of the battery capacity charge current.  For example, 
if you have a 100 Ah battery, you do not want to charge it more than 20 amps.  
It is recommended that 10% or less be used to preserve battery life.  

    Too high of a charge current will shorten the battery life in a variety of 
ways.  Sealed VLRA batts are much more susceptible due to a reduced amount of 
liquid electrolyte to serve as a heat sink.  They also outgas thus losing 
electrolyte and capacity during deep discharge.  Furthermore they have a chance 
of thermal runaway during heavy discharge or charge.  Flooded cells do not have 
this same problem.  

    So, say you have a 48 volt system, your load current is 10 amps.  You want 
it to remain alive for 48 hours during a power outage.  You need 24*4*10 = 480 
Ah of battery.  Pretty large battery.  $3500 or so.

    Now, after an outage you need to charge that battery and run your load.  
So, 10% of 480Ah is 48 amps of charging current plus 10 amps for your load.  58 
amps of charger/rectifier.  

    But wait, you really need to do N+1 for redundancy so two 60 amp rectifiers 
would be needed.  However then you have way too much recharge capacity after 
outages that could damage your batts.

    So, you need to have rectifiers that will limit the current.  The ones I 
use allow you to set the whole shelf to limit the current.  If you are 
paralleling units that do not talk to each other, set each one for load plus 5% 
of the battery.  

    So in the above example, current limit the rectifiers to 34 amps each.  If 
one rectifier dies, the other can still pull the 10 amp load plus have 25 amps 
for recharge.  That will bring the batts back to fully charged in about 19 
hours.  

    However if both are working, and there is an outage, when the power comes 
back on there will be 68 amps of total current available.  Take off 10 amps for 
the load and you have 58 amps going into the batts.

    58/480=12%  You are golden.  No battery damage.  N+1 operation.  All is 
well.  And you will recharge in about 10 hours.  

     




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