b Colin, Do you have a wiring diagram for your car? Is this one accurate for your car?: http://goo.gl/6UoAuZ
1. I'm not sure that an ohm test is the best way to go to test the fuel pump. Disconnect the wire(s) to the pumpb and apply 12vdc from an external source to see if the pump will run. And if you have an aux. pump in the fuel tank (as in Bosch FI systems), the same circuit runs that one as well. I believe that if the aux. pump doesn't work, then the car will run very badly. 2. Fuse #1 runs your horn and interior courtesy lights. Do they work ? 3. Don't have any experience with inertia switches for neither my '86 Spider nor '73 GTV came with one. But to eliminate/test the inertia switch, put a jumper wire across the two pink wires - if the fuel pump works, then the switch is VerySuspect. 4.Fuse #11 runs the fuel pumps and inertia switch. Check the fuse box to make sure that the fuse ends are clean, the fuse box 'fingers' are clean and they are holding the fuse quite tightly. If no joy, then you will need a voltmeter and start tracing for a voltage drop. Check the back of the fuse box to make sure the connections are clean and tight - no corrosion allowed. You car doesn't have a fuel pump relay which means that the ignition switch must handle the higher amperages for this load. I do remember that some ignition switches will burn out and need to be replaced - which means you need to check the power going into the switch. Putting in a fuel pump relay will reduce the amperage in the ignition switch and make its life so much easier. Power from the battery comes into the fuse box on Fuse #2 and Fuses #1,2,3,4 are all electrically linked within the fuse box. The red wire connected to the back side of Fuse #3 supplies power to the ignition switch. Bruce > Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2015 02:26:35 +0000 (UTC) > From: Colin Talcroft <[email protected]> > Subject: [alfa] Spider fuel pump problem > > Hello all, > Making very small progress toward fixing my car (1978 spider). I have some > new > info and was hoping for further guidance.B > 1. Got a friend with a high-quality ohm meter to test the fuel pump. It > shows > a steady 4.6 Ohms, which, from what I've read online, means that the fuel > pump > itself probably is not dead? Or am I wrong about that. > 2. Under the dash, checked all the fuses. They all appear to be good. I've > attached a link to a photo for reference. The little box with two more > fuses > on the left has only one fuse in it, but the leads from both of those fuses > are disconnected and the car ran fine that way for years, so that's not an > issue. Also the far left fuse slot was empty but appears always to have > been > so, but, having said that, a disconnected fuse came out of the box when I > opened it. Could that fuse have popped out of that slot? > 3. Checked the inertia switch, but don't really understand this. It doesn't > seem to move. I don't know what it should look like in the on or off (or > tripped or reset) positions. It doesn't seem to move. How do you reset > this or > be sure it's not tripped? > 4. As for symptoms, still get a solid red low fuel pressure light. There > is no > fuel pump sound when the ignition is on. Car will no longer start (it > started > once after the initial failure and ran long enough to allow me to drive > about > 10 feet to pull the car into the garage back in January when this first > happened). I assume it started before and ran a little just with fuel that > was > remaining in the system. Apparently getting no fuel at all now.B > So, given this new info, how to proceed next? > For reference, I've determined my car DOES have the auxiliary pump in the > tank. It appears to have the later Bosch L-Jetronic fuel pump (with the > crimped edges). Also note that this vehicle has dealer-installed > air-conditioning, so it may have extra fuses etc. under the dash.B > Thanks for any help. > Colin B > > http://www.colintalcroft.com/Alfa%20fuse%20box.jpg -- to be removed from alfa, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe alfa" to [email protected]
