*SOTTO VOCE: A Different Assam
*30 Nov 2007, 0009 hrs IST,Hansda Sowvendra Shekhar

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   In the summer of 1990, while journeying with my family from Howrah to New
Delhi by the Rajdhani Express, two gentlemen from Assam befriended me. I
was, at that time, a chubby little kid of seven. As they talked to me about
my school, the subjects i liked and the sports I played, I put my social
studies lessons to use and created a map of India in my mind. Assam.
Capital: Dispur. All i knew about Assam at that time was that it was where
our tea came from, a huge river named Brahmaputra, called Tsangpo in Tibet,
ran through it and there were forests where the thick-skinned, and
apparently bullet-proof, rhinos lived. Barua sir, our PT teacher in school,
was an Asomiya. His pockets were perennially filled with toffees for all the
students and there were moments when he had spoken to me in Santhali, my
mother tongue and one of India's widely spoken tribal dialects, of which he
knew a smattering.

During a recent visit to Delhi i was shopping for DVDs of hard-to-find
avant-garde films in Palika Bazar. While i was making a choice between
Amores Perros and In the Mood for Love, a young man standing next to me
whooped at having made prized discoveries - Conrad Rooks's Siddhartha and a
posse of Satyajit Ray's films, the names of which he pronounced in
impeccable Bengali. I asked him if he was one. He replied that he was an
Assamese but he could speak Bengali.

This weekend, when I read about the riots in Guwahati and saw on TV the
brutality with which tribal students were beaten up and tribal women were
stripped in full view of the police, I was immediately reminded of the
Asomiyas I have come across in my life so far: those amiable co-passengers
in the Rajdhani, our wonderful teacher, and that young cinema aficionado. I
wonder if those who were photographed brandishing clubs and other weapons
are in any way different from their counterparts who I have written about. I
wonder, if the non-Asomiyas would think twice before setting foot inside
this state, which has in recent times witnessed most virulent form of
intolerance. I wonder if a seven-year-old can ever again associate Assam
only with lush tea estates, the majestic Brahmaputra, powerful rhinos and
pleasant people. But then, again, intolerance and violence are not unique to
Assam. Scan the newspaper for evidence.
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