Allan : As it happens, i'm just completing an 11x20 garage for a friend, intending dual use for car and shop/shed.... therefore has a poured concrete floor....which you don't need. I' ve built sheds from this size right down to 4x4, most movable/portable. I use what i describe here plus ...2 old construction trailers,cubicle and drive-thru sheds made from 7x7 wooden skids with discarded garage doors for roofs and sides (7x8) There are more preliminary questions whose answers beget many more qualified details: Is a building permit required? Is it to be heated/how? Do you want it to serve as an extra solar space with large windows on the south side?...or build in for future provision? (That could determine a peaked or single sloped roof.) How many doors, what size? How much overhang ?..... Handier for hanging up tools during the season, and chilling out of the sun. How concerned are you about critters staying out?mice, etc. What is the roof material? (I prefer the bake-painted metal) Should it be dirt-cheap? Are tillers/tractors to be stored in the winter? When you say double floor, i assume you mean 2 layers of plywood, or what? That would mean a wooden joist floor ...which takes more steps to assure no moisture damage, etc. For your purposes, why spend that much extra?.... although a base like that would be easiest to make and keep true/square.....even movable... with little damage. For standing/working comfort, a few sheets of ply wood would serve adequately. If you opt for simple and less expensive: The first, most important thing is that the site is elevated at least a few inches above its surrounding....with the clay roughly levelled first. If not possible, then ditch the perimeter 2' out from the walls and at least 1' deep, leading downhill away from the site. These can be left open until you can afford to fill them with 3/4 "stonegravel for drainage. If the clay is consistent it can be dug first and used to elevate your floor space IF necessary, and welltamped. For your purposes, and to raise the level a few inches, you can get by with plastic on the clay extending 1' beyond the wall exterior, then a floor of crusher-run gravel (road-grade)till you can afford to lay down used patio slabs or equivalent, or even a cement or wooden floor later. For a floor that size, the perimeter for the walls could be of 3/4 "gravel 6" deep...extending at least a foot beyond the outside walls, and vibrated, levelled. If you do not use pressure-treated!! 6x6 for your perimeter beam, you could use 6" cement block all round, with or without a cement footing ...or 2'x2' patioslabs. the latter being fastest and giving lots of leeway for trueing the walls....anchoring every 3rd slab or so.and foamrope between the slabs and the wallplates.In this case, its better to use 2 plates on the bottom...as on the top. For a dualpurpose strength and appearance, i have usually used 3/8" or 1/2" standard plywood sheathing, vertically, as the exterior, and covering the seams with a 1"x2" or 1x3 and each 12" on centre..... giving the board-and- batten appearance. Studs on 2'centres are ok....with 1 or 2 cross blocks between each to firm the sheathing. (paint or stain plywood before the strips go on) Always use the hurricane rafter tie-downs at the top-wall-plate before the sheathing goes on. Lay out your wall dimensions so that you need not cut much plywood or studs. Hope this is some help. Ask more to clarify context. ........manfred
----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 3:20 PM Subject: Gardening Shed Advice (?)
