Alan : that helps a bit more. The critical factor is not so much the cold, but what moisture content is average to conduct its damaging aspects with cold....or conditions producing condensation. The plastic barrier i mentioned is the prerequisite for the whole area.You can always add some moisture to customwork your clayglazed mainfloor. I think you'll still get ruts if you drive/park your Kubota in the same spot. I would lay 2 strips of patiostones for it or any wagon you may back in repeatedly. (you can always add more clay to bring the level up so you dont trip on the slabs, or dig them into the clay...leveling with sand...... harder!) The slabs i get are "seconds" at a local manufacturer's, and they are cross-bar-reinforced. Its good to ask around for these if you drive heavy on them. If you also put down patiostones in a select area for your "perishables" , simply put down Hi-density shiplap foamboard under them to cut any vestige of cold-borne moisture. As a further buffering-but- breathing protection, i have picked up dozens of used polyester, woven ,cubic-yard flour bags from a local mill, and store many things in or under these: Seedbags in plastic barrels under them, metal implements, drillers mud, rock dust, cement....and some hung high, tied shut, with whole dried plants with seeds and all which i'll shakeout when i have the time. Old freezers with venting are useful too. I guess it's too late to sell you on a strawbale shed. They really minimize temp fluctuations. I think its one of the best, cheapest routes to go with many applications. Did i mention about the importance of anchoring, from above, all the way into the ground? Also, even if you're using rooftrusses, it's an extra benefit to put in 2x4 horizontal 45-degree cornerbraces, 4' -8' long, at the level of the top-plates. Are you putting in a loft area for warmer storage?, a post/beam/pulley combo for lifting off heavy loads quickly? ..............manfred, B-uilding D-igest Now
----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 7:27 PM Subject: Re: Gardening Shed Advice (?) > >Allan : > >As it happens, i'm just completing an 11x20 garage for a friend, intending > >dual use for car and shop/shed.... therefore has a poured concrete > >floor....which you don't need. > > > Manfred, it was a 'well established Foundation garden manager' who > admonished me to 'be sure to demand a double floor in the shed.' That > is sort of the mystery, since he is definitely the sort of gardener > that doesn't expect a 'why' in response to his admonition, if you > know what I mean. > > Hence, the mystery. But it seems right that rock powders and 50lb > bags of field seed, and wheel plows, etc, do not sit on the cold, > cold earth andthat pallets not be put in the shed since they are like > giving a tunnel system to rodents... > > The carpenter I'm working with wants to put 3 ft eaves on the shed to > keep it v. dry inside and to compress the clay floor with the Kabota > until it is 'smooth enough to sweep with a broom' > > I'm going to skip windows, but go for a great double door and maybe a light. > > Currently, the floor represents about half the cost of construction. > (materials) > > Thanks for your good note, Manfred. (I'll look for another!) >
