> >fwd from Merla:
Hi Merla
2 cents worth from downunder
>
>
> >Thanks to anyone who's willing to take a stab at this.
> >
> >I'm trying to do test plots on Rapid Lightning to show that alternative
> >weed control methods are feasible by the county and to keep our road
> >from being sprayed.
Just demonstration plots not "scientific replicated trials" ?
> >
> >One of the possibilities for test plots is taking a soil analysis and
> >amending the soil to discourage the weeds and to encourage the other
> >native wild plants either alone or in conjunction with BD weed peppers.
> >We need something that people can do, something that is not too
> >complicated.
See if you can find someone in the road area that has got a brix meter
(refractometer) you can borrow so that you can figure out what treatments
will do this
> >
> >1) SOIL ANALYSIS
> >I have an opportunity to choose a private business (not the U. of Idaho)
> >to do my organic soil analysis for the road. Is there a place here in
> >the western U.S. where I can get this done?
Send samples to Brookside or Perry labs. we have about two weeks turnaround
from here so you will get results reasonably quickly. I think you need to
use a Brookside consultant to get samples tested there - (can't send them
direct) Should be able to send direct to Perry somebody on the list should
have mailing addresses / phone contacts.
> >2) CONCEPTUALIZING TEST PLOTS ON SOIL CHANGES WHICH WOULD >>DISCOURAGE
KNAPWEED, COMMON TANSY OR THISTLE AND ENCOURAGE >>NATIVE PLANTS ON GLACIAL
TILL SOIL IN THIS BRITTLE ENVIRONMENT.
Jay McCaman's weeds and why they grow has these all down as weeds that grow
well where you have very low calcium, phosphorus,humus and a compacted soil
or low porosity also anaerobic soil bacteria for knapweed SO if you could
add calcium, phosphorus, build humus (by adding any good carbon sources from
sugar on up) and maybe a bacterial compost tea these things should all
discourage the weeds - lessen their vigour in comparison to the other
plants.
> >Actually, there are many wild plants that do all right on marginal
> >soils. The trouble is that knapweed or hawkweed or common tansy can
> >come into these situations and take over the site because they are so
> >successful in drought situations possibly because they are allelopathic.
> >
> >When you do soil amending, you usually take all the plants off the plot
> >and dig it up mixing whatever compost, rock dust or BD prep you wish to
> >add.
> >In dealing with the road right-of-way, we have all kinds of native
> >plants and grasses growing on it. You have hawkweed over an understory
> >of kinnickinnick and many other plants.
> >
> >I'm trying to conceptualize a series of test plots based on a soil
> >analysis. Will I have to do this on some of the bare ground where the
> >county has ditched so that I can actually mix the amendments with the
> >soil to some kind of depth or is there any way to amend the soil and
> >leave the non-offensive native plants there?
Most of the area is not bare? so you need to do the plots on what you will
be trying to fix up - not the bare cuts. Spread dry materials on soil
surface at start of the season (lime, rock dust, rock phosphate) Use liquid
materials when things are growing.
> Is there a specific way of
> >discouraging knapweed, hawkweed and common tansy by changing the soil
> >besides using weed peppers or in conjunction with weed peppers?
Some things I would try as treatments are:- (in conjunction with or as well
as)
XX Calcium nitrate fertiliser (greenhouse grade) 2 pounds / acre liquified,
mixed with 1 gal molasses / acre - first treatment should go on the ground
before anything germinates, then, depending on a refractometer test, another
treatment when plants are young and active, maybe a third treatment if the
reaction is favourable. We have had really good results with this on
deterring broadleaf weeds from germinating in our field crops. Its worth a
try but may stop some of your desirable plants too.
XX Can you get some of the Idaho black rock phosphate - try that sprayed out
as a foliar - these are low P weeds they won't like it
XX make a tea from the weeds and spray that back out - may or may not work
XX I would also check out a little liquid fish, humate, sugar, liquid kelp,
separate, or combined with other stuff above
XX get about four little plastic squirt bottles (dollar each at the
supermarket) and test mixes of different things before you go to too much
trouble - about 20 squirts to a square meter (yard) is a sprayer rate of
100 litre /ha (10 gal/acre) -
XX The way to make this work is to test all of these things with a
refractometer and see that you get a brix increase in your desirable plants
and a brix decrease from the weeds - you just mess around experimenting with
various mixes until this happens. Can you maybe buy or hire a refractometer
out of the grant money? If not borrow one - the weed supervisor would have
access to one.
XX Try some bacterial compost tea probably mixed with these other things
above
Hope some of this might help
Cheers
Lloyd Charles
ps I would not get involved in replicated scientific trials unless its
necessary to keep the grant money coming. they are a big lot of work for no
reward. (my opinion)
> >Anybody have any ideas?
> >
> >Thanks for suggestions. I'm searching for something AGAIN.
> >
> >Merla
>
>
