Hi Merla
The paramagnetic towers / pipes - definition first - we are talking here
about rock that has paramagnetic energy - that is, it will be attracted to a
magnet but is not magnetisable - varying degrees of this of course -
different from magnetic rock like ironstone which has its own magnetic
charge
These towers are cheap and easy and I believe would help to lift soil energy
in your garden
You need a piece of say six inch diameter plastic drain pipe 10 feet long
(maybe a bit longer - do you have trouble with fence posts heaving out of
the ground in winter - if so you might need to put an extra foot or two in
the ground ) it needs to be 8 to 9 feet above ground anyway.
You dowse for "the most appropriate beneficial intersection of ley lines"
to put it up.
fill with paramagnetic rock, make a domed cap from the same rock and a
little cement and put a small quartz crystal up top (optional) Do a chant,
or say a prayer, something special when you finish it .
> I would be interested in making one of these. We stopped at an old quarry
site
> to get the basalt for the BC. Is this the type of rock you're talking
about?
> I bet you doused the rock to see if it was what you wanted? How did you
choose
> the rock dust?
I do this scientifically
You can self test all your locally available quarry dusts using the
following method - it will tell you if any have paramagnetism high enough to
be useful - some of the highest paramagnetic tests I have heard of come from
Canadian rock I think from the East edge of the Rockies.
Woody would probably know where. I think this is a blue granite.Very nice
highly energetic material.
With the volcanic activity thats been in your part of the country there
would be good
paramagnetic rock within easy range I am sure.
If you want to do some testing yourself here's how
1. get a sample (or a couple of different ones) of paramagneteic rock dust
of known cgs and keep for reference, I keep mine in a normal paper
envelope.( this bit is helpful but you can skip it and go to part 2)
2. now you need a small (1/2" diameter or smaller) but high quality -
strong - magnet - your ordinary fridge magnet type is not good enough (look
for the neodimium magnets they sell for taping on your body for aches and
pains or something similar) - and suspend the magnet on a piece of cotton
about a foot or so long.
3. the magnet will stick to your envelope of paramagnetic material and by
moving the cotton away so that you have just enough tension on the cotton to
equal the weight of the magnet you find the magnet comes away from the
sample at a certain angle depending on the paramagnetic value or strength of
the material tested. The reverse of this of course is that a diamagnetic
material (lime for instance) should repel the magnet
Its a fun thing - but a good enough system to tell if a rock source is
worthwhile.
> Chemistry--I have a soil testing kit with test tubes, but you're way
beyond
> that.
Not really! I have meters to test for pH. Ec, redox (ORP). the
refractometer, and I have a collection of glass vials with my material
samples for the radionic testing. I have spent a lot of time test mixing and
observing reactions with the fertiliser materials I use and I did basic
chemistry at university recently - enough to be able to know when the local
fertiliser salesman is telling me fairy stories. You said Herb used to blow
holes in the pavement with his chemistry set when he was a kid - now thats
chemistry!
> How did you make the juicing pliers?
Do you have a fax machine ? what number? If not I will post my drawing.
>
> Yes, I'm still trying to get Brad to let me buy a refractometer on the
grant.
Allan Balliet posted a while back saying he has a cheap one that works ok -
60 -
70 dollars US
> > often we can make a foliar mix that will increase brix of the crop and
decrease brix > > of the weeds - that puts the weeds at a competitive
disadvantage, the crop
> > outgrows them."
>
> I've saved your email on this, but could you repeat this in detail for me?
If you are selling certified organic produce there are a few things I use
that are not allowable. If on the other hand you grow for your own use only
and healthy mineralised food is the aim then I think these things are good.
I searched for that old message hoping to save myself some typing - no
dice - so here goes
lets pretend we are starting from scratch on a conventional farm down the
road
the first thing I want to do is use a stubble digester on the remainder of
last years crop stubble - that would be a microbial brew with some calcium
nitrate and molasses
so we have some microbial innoculation, some liquid calcium to catalyse the
soil calcium, a little bit of nitrate nitrogen and the sugars from molasses
as a readily available food source to start the bacteria.
Sprayed out on the straw early morning straight after or during some rain -
needs moisture - at least a good dew. If you want to stick with biodynamics
then barrel compost with two to three litres per hectare of molasses and
maybe a compost tea
When we seed our crops we follow the seeder (within 24 hours of seeding)
with a mix of 2 litres (2kilogram dry) of liquid calcium nitrate pre mixed
into 2 to 4 litres of heavy black molasses per hectare - this deters the
broadleaf weeds from germinating and slows the vigour of our grass weeds
like rye grass - this is a very effective tactic for us and I would
recommend it to any grain farmer as well worth trying - it should work in a
vegie patch or on bare areas like the road side cuts. There are are other
liquid clacium products for certified organic - they cost more - are more
difficult to get and I doubt they work as well . Worth a try though.
(calcium lignosulfonate, Biomin calcium from J.H.Biotech, or Microcal are
some)
Once our crops are up and growing we look to stimulate fruit initiation with
a foliar nutrient spray, for wheat thats at about 40 days from emergence,
when the potential size of the head is determined, for vegie crops like
tomatoes and melons I guess when flowering first commences, you would try to
get more fruit to set earlier, and stop the flowers from falling off without
setting. To improve fruit setting use sour or acidic products, cider
vinegar,phosphoric acid, fish, add a little molasses or sugar and maintain a
lower pH, under 6 in the mix.
I would make several different test mixes using what materials I can get
and would use. I use little plastic pump spray bottles for this and usually
mix four different brews, these are made in the exact same proportion and
with the same water and at the same rate that I will use in my field
sprayer, then I go out and spray a couple square yards of crop with each
bottle, a few yards apart so there is no cross over influence,
45 minutes to an hour later I come back and test each plot with the
refractometer as well as doing two untreated tests (its important to always
do your tests at the same time)
If I get a positive response to one or other mix then I will go ahead and
test the brix of any weeds present - concentrating on the major problem
weeds for that crop. I would probably check these results the next day also.
If we can make a foliar spray that raises the brix of the crop (or desirable
plants) and at the same time lowers the brix of the weeds then several
things happen
1 the crop grows more strongly than the weeds because we fed it the suitable
nutrition
2 any insects in the crop find the weeds more attractive than the crop
plants because insects love low brix plants and are deterred from eating
high brix stuff.
3 the same applies to diseases fungus etc
so now we have all of the natural system working in favour of our crop and
to the detriment of the weeds
Do you see whats going on here? just feeding the system in the direction we
want it to go to benefit our crop. Many organic growers are philosophicaly
opposed to doing this with foliar sprays ("forcing the plant" they say) but
then they will turn around and dump ten to fifty ton to the acre of compost
on at the start of the season.I have a huge problem figuring that out!
Cheers
Lloyd Charles
