|
Hi Gil and all
->One can not create a hard pan in sand, gravel or loam<-
Our hardpan was created when our part of the would was a part of the
African continent and the plates was under water for millions of year's ? (words
from our university people)
Most of the Eastern US have this stuff.
Hardpan in our case are nearly always sandy. Clay
is around but you need to look for it.
Our hardpan is a 10 cm thick layer of compressed
sand, and if you dig more the sand will be more coarser the more/dipper you dig,
normally a dug well is 10/20 feet dip here and it will have
water
Please describe the difference cycles:
->there is nothing like a fully functional BD cycle to assist. A good
organic cycle will also ->work, but I see a BD cycle as being better. In a
Chemical Cycle
BD cycle
Organic cycle
Chemical cycle
Please elaborate ->does not bring salt or clay to the surface, nor does
it bury the soil in the lower levels. <- Are you stating that digging a
trench and mixing the soil and sub-soil is a bad thing ??
To recap, you would recommend gypsum 4
ton/hectare (=1 ton/acre) over 4 year ??
Please explain ->"functional cationic forces to hold water and
minerals"<-
Thanks for all of this comments, they are very
helpful
Per Garp/NH
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 06:23
AM
Subject: Re: Perfect Orchard
Hi! Markess,
While Lute Larson may have developed
additional rates, she started with the same that I have access to, but have
not has occasion to use, in the case of Hard Pan. Hard Pan either indicates
the lower point of tillage and is some times treated by the sue of irregular
depth tines or chisel plough. It usually is associated with clay or some
form a colloidal. It may be related to loading by stock or machinery, again
related to a clay layer. One can not create a hard pan in sand, gravel or
loam. The advantage of using Gypsum, in some places called Clay Breaker or Pan
Breaker, is that it is a very low impact, energetic method, which requires
little fuel/ machinery and does not bring salt or clay to the surface, nor
does it bury the soil in the lower levels. As I have said before, there is
nothing like a fully functional BD cycle to assist. A good organic cycle will
also work, but I see a BD cycle as being better. In a Chemical Cycle, most
activity is in the top 50 mil (2") or so. A really high firing Organic or BD
Cycle can penetrate 400, 500 or even 600 mil. This will require enough soil
biota food, as stated in the earlier post, and mineral balancing, if required.
In cases of bad pan, gypsum will bring results in months instead of years. The
amount of gypsum held in the space made by cupping both hands and spread on a
square metre is about one tonne to the hectare and is the minimum amount. If
one has half a metre to one and a half metres to deal with, to get down to
weathered granite and to allow in ground drainage, such as in totally
saturated soils, then, one may use up to four tonne to the hectare. This would
not usually be applied at one time, but over two to four years. Over time the
effect of the gypsum will fall away and on occasionally, need replication.
I have 50 mil to 150 mil of highly clayey top soil, with 100 to 150 mil of
clayey sub-soil, with 600 to 1,200 mil of sticky brown clay, over a penetrable
weathered granite of 700 to 1,500 mil, then solid granite. I have gone from
drowning fruit trees and vines to allowing drainage, with the equivalent of
around three tonne to the hectare over three years. This has been supported
with composting/ Preps/ Soil Food. The roots can now get down to the natural
mineral layers. I( have over come the difficulties related to the drying of
clay soils, where there is great damage to the root hairs, which only shows up
later as set back trees and is usually regarded as being something else. If
your soils clump, clod or crack, you have to look at breaking them with
gypsum.
When looking at this, do not get carried away with trying to work out the
chemistry. We are dealing with energy and the various attractive forces at a
molecular level. We still need some functional cationic forces to hold water
and minerals for use by the soil biota and ultimately the plant, but we also
need to allow penetration of air and water.
Moen Creek wrote:
Gil you wrote:
Clay has the ability to
cling together and form tough blocks. Great for
making adobe
or pise houses. Increased soil carbon and increased soil biota
will help, but in the short term use one to four tonnes of gypsum
to the
hectare, will break the clay and allow water
penetration and largely break
the pan without ripping. If you
trench, you will most likely loose your soil
into the lower
regions and bring the clay to the surface. It will also tend
to make a place for water to lay and rot the roots. I would not do
it. Try
gypsum first.
I don't have a lot of experience in this area being my bottom
lands were never worked with tractors.
But I believe Lute Larson and
others have had great Radionic success with hard pan and even standing
water using Radionic rates to increase porosity and air circulation. The
field broadcaster would be a great device to set these patterns
consistently.
On a slightly different tact I intent this coming year to pay closer
attention to light circulation in soil.
Mark Purdey's work and
discussions here on the list have touched on Light's relationship to to
proper growth and mineral transmutation.
Given my assumed role of CU & ZN in soil's circulation of
light do you think that gypsum would decrease heavy clays tendencies to
towards celating these metals.
Gypsum as a "gem" stone has interesting
transmissions of laser light with odd effects ie halos and hot spots.
In musing
In Love & Light
Markess
|
