Here are copies of some of the answers:
>From John Schwery: Scott, the nut that looks like a regular nut, that is, the
>6-sided
nut, is the locking nut. If you will notice on the square nut, on
one side of that nut is a little notch. That is the side you want to
face up for measuring. Supposing you want to measure 2 and a quarter
inches. The end with the threaded hole is where you start. From
that end, spin the square nut until it lines up with the 4th mark,
that is, 2 inches and have the notch side up. then, continuing to
spin in the same direction, count 4 turns, again, with the notch side
up. Turn the other nut until it locks the square nut in place. You
should have 32 and a quarter inches. Now, if you want to make that 8
and a quarter inches, screw in the 6 inch extension.
>From Mickey Fixsen: The threaded piece is the primary measuring device. The
>rectangular nut is the
measuring nut and the hex nut is the locking nut. Here is how to use it.
There is a small hole in one end of the threaded rod. This hole is where the
extensions attach to the threaded rod. Rotate the rectangular nut down to the
end of the threaded rod until it is flush with the end with the small hole and
the notch on one side of the rectangular nut is oriented on the same side as
the raised threads that are 1/2"apart. You have now zeroed the tool.
If you rotate the rectangular nut 8 turns toward the opposite end of the
threaded rod, you should end up with the edge of the rectangular nut that was
flush with the end of the rod, now flush with the first raised 1/2" raised
thread. The tool now measures 1/2" fron the end of the rod with the hole in it
to the edge of the rectangular measuring nut. Hence, when this edge of the
measuring nut is flush with a raised mark, you have a particular measurement in
1/2" increments.
For every full turn of the rectangular measuring nut, you have changed the
measurement 1/16". For every half turn of the measuring nut, you change the
measurement by 1/132". For every quarter turn of the measuring nut, you change
the measurement by 1/64".
If for instance you need a measurement of 1 1/4", start by rotating the
rectangular measuring nut so that the edge closest to the end of the rod with
the hole is flush with the second raised thread fron the end of the rod with
the hole, and the notch on the measuring nut is oriented on the same side of
the tool as the raised threads. Now, rotate the measuring nut 4 full turns
further away from the end of the rod with the hole and make sure the notch is
on the same side of the tool as the raised threads. There is now 1 1/4" from
the end of the threaded rod with the hole to the edge of the rectangular
measuring nut.
You can measure up to six inches with the threaded rod alone. This is from the
end of the rod with the hole to the closest edge of the measuring nut. If you
need to measure 6 inches to 12 inches, simply install the 6 inch extension. You
can add extensions as needed to measure up to 42 inches with what you have
there.
So far, I have been talking about measurements from the end with the hole to
the closest edge of the measuring nut. This is how you would use it for outside
measurements, like across the outside of a box, or from one end of a boart to a
given length. For inside measurements, like inside of a box, you measure from
the end of the rod with the hole to the far side of the measuring nut. The
measuring nut is 1/4" thick and you willl need to remember this with some
operations.
Just remember that the raised threads are 1/2" marks and that every full turn
of the measuring nut is 1/16". When you get the measuring nut where you want
it, you can tighten the hex shaped nut against it to hold the measurement nut
from turning and changing the measurement.
Like most things, there is a bit of a learning curve with it. Just use it a bit
and get used to how it operates. You will find that it is very accurate. It is
by far the best overall measuring tool for use by the blind.
By the way, the Clickrule works on the same principle as the rotomatic, but
uses a sliding device instead of a rotating nut, and it has a detent that
lightly holds the tool every 1/16". The clickrule won't lie as flat on the
workpiece as the Rotomatic and does not have it's 1/64" accuracy. They both
have their plusses and minuses. I use them both, depending on the particular
task at hand.
If you have any other specific questions about how to use the Rotomatic, just
ask.
Good luck.
>From Dale Leavens:
You have done pretty well at describing the rule.
The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is
the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if
you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to
use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.
You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.
You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all
around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of
the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an
inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an
inch and so on.
If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing
your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the
18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you
require.
What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan
or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to
my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the
wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I
frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw
down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I can
use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but
this takes time and I often don't bother.
I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence to
blade on my table saw and so on.
This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I
suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it.
I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but rarely
do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use the
dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I
used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual
length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have
the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler.
A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and
hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24
on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful in
frame construction.
The foregoing messages should give you a pretty complete description of the
Roto-rule.
--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "R & S Enterprises" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of
> the operation of the roto rule. I would like to talk with them via
> telephone. If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best
> time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
> thanks
> Ron Yearns
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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