the only reason I suggested the metal is that Larry is a metals guy. :)
On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, Dale Leavens wrote: > I've done that too but a block of wood is easier to place and stays put > leaving that hand free to help guide.. > > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Skype DaleLeavens > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David W Wood > To: [email protected] > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 10:33 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > > A simple way is to use a simple 90 degree angle bracket, about an inch wide > with, say, 2 inch leaves. > > if you place this on the surface of the work piece, then you can use it to > true the drill bit by firming it into the concave angle of the bracket. > simple, rough but effective. > > David > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:09 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > > Larry, > > > > First, 3 inch screws are too long for holding down a plywood deck. even 2 > > inch is probably a little too long. > > > > The screws won't pull the plywood laterally. If the sheet is down on the > > joist you can drive the screw at any angle pretty well, it will bridge the > > interface where the sheet meets the joist but because they are in contact > > the screw will only hold them together at that point. I sometimes very > > deliberately run screws or more often nails at opposite angles to each > > other so they spread in direction to make them a way more difficult to > > pull apart. No matter how you pull at least one will not be pulling out > > straight. > > > > In general though you will go pretty straight just by holding the screw or > > the drill bit and judging vertical. Going a little sideways might run the > > screw out through one side or other of the joist and this would reduce > > strength a little and isn't so pretty. I don't see that so much with > > screws but quite often see it where builders drive nails crooked like > > that. > > > > Now one solution I have used in the past where really square alignment > > matters is to take a piece of timber and cut a slight groove in it > > perpendicular to the surface I will place against the flat surface. It > > must be thick enough to guide but thin enough to allow the drill or screw > > to get well into the surface. Just place the block with the groove ending > > where you want the hole or screw then line the drill resting just in the > > groove and drill it in. If there is three inches of drill exposed and the > > groove is across the edge of a block of 2 by stock you will be in an inch > > and a half before the chuck contacts the block, just slide the block away > > and continue on down to the end of your three inches. > > > > Hope this is helpful. > > > > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Skype DaleLeavens > > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Larry Stansifer > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:22 AM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > > > > > Well guys, the subject line pretty much says it all. > > I need some ideas on how to start all of these screws straight. Working > > with > > metal, I can't ever remember having to place fasteners every 16" on > > center > > at 1 foot intervals. My guess is if you don't get that screw or pilot > > hole > > damn close to straight it will tweak the work out of square. > > This begs the question, how does a blind guy drill about a bazillion > > straight pilot holes? When working in metal I can usually take the work > > over > > to the drill-press or if I need to mount something to a frame, I can fab > > a > > guide up for that special task. None of the drill fixtures or jigs I have > > built previously would work for a drilling and fastening project of this > > size. > > In our next chapter boys&girls we are going to find out how a blind guy > > who > > can hardly spell wood goes about choosing material, so stay tuned. > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > > or > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > > List Members At The Following address: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > > address for more information: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > > list just send a blank message to: > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
