I buy galvanized drywall screws all the time and they work fine. -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Yearns Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 7:43 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight
Ah did I hear someone say something about using drywall screws on this deck? One should only use the proper coated deck screws for treated lumber or galvanized. Even the old c c a takes a different head and coating than the newer c b a lumber. Anyway dry wall screws used on even redwood will rust real quick as they have no coating. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight one could drill through the bottom leaf, with the intended bit, and have a bit guide. fully centered. Place that angle on a larger square of metal, affix it as you like,weld, solder, pox, drill through again; and you can pop pop your pilots all over those boards. The dry wall screws are a great idea as well. They seem to have a great amount of strength for their size, and cut well; so you don't have to drill quite as deep. 1.75 for 3/4. On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, David W Wood wrote: > A simple way is to use a simple 90 degree angle bracket, about an inch wide > with, say, 2 inch leaves. > > if you place this on the surface of the work piece, then you can use it to > true the drill bit by firming it into the concave angle of the bracket. > simple, rough but effective. > > David > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:09 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > >> Larry, >> >> First, 3 inch screws are too long for holding down a plywood deck. even 2 >> inch is probably a little too long. >> >> The screws won't pull the plywood laterally. If the sheet is down on the >> joist you can drive the screw at any angle pretty well, it will bridge the >> interface where the sheet meets the joist but because they are in contact >> the screw will only hold them together at that point. I sometimes very >> deliberately run screws or more often nails at opposite angles to each >> other so they spread in direction to make them a way more difficult to >> pull apart. No matter how you pull at least one will not be pulling out >> straight. >> >> In general though you will go pretty straight just by holding the screw or >> the drill bit and judging vertical. Going a little sideways might run the >> screw out through one side or other of the joist and this would reduce >> strength a little and isn't so pretty. I don't see that so much with >> screws but quite often see it where builders drive nails crooked like >> that. >> >> Now one solution I have used in the past where really square alignment >> matters is to take a piece of timber and cut a slight groove in it >> perpendicular to the surface I will place against the flat surface. It >> must be thick enough to guide but thin enough to allow the drill or screw >> to get well into the surface. Just place the block with the groove ending >> where you want the hole or screw then line the drill resting just in the >> groove and drill it in. If there is three inches of drill exposed and the >> groove is across the edge of a block of 2 by stock you will be in an inch >> and a half before the chuck contacts the block, just slide the block away >> and continue on down to the end of your three inches. >> >> Hope this is helpful. >> >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Skype DaleLeavens >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Larry Stansifer >> To: [email protected] >> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:22 AM >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight >> >> >> Well guys, the subject line pretty much says it all. >> I need some ideas on how to start all of these screws straight. Working >> with >> metal, I can't ever remember having to place fasteners every 16" on >> center >> at 1 foot intervals. My guess is if you don't get that screw or pilot >> hole >> damn close to straight it will tweak the work out of square. >> This begs the question, how does a blind guy drill about a bazillion >> straight pilot holes? When working in metal I can usually take the work >> over >> to the drill-press or if I need to mount something to a frame, I can fab >> a >> guide up for that special task. None of the drill fixtures or jigs I have >> built previously would work for a drilling and fastening project of this >> size. >> In our next chapter boys&girls we are going to find out how a blind guy >> who >> can hardly spell wood goes about choosing material, so stay tuned. >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> >> To listen to the show archives go to link >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html >> or >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ >> >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday >> >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various >> List Members At The Following address: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ >> >> Visit the archives page at the following address >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ >> >> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following >> address for more information: >> http://www.jaws-users.com/ >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man >> list just send a blank message to: >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
