oops, I wasn't thinking treated lumber. But then consider the rust info, I guess I wasn't thinking. Sorry. :(
On Sun, 13 Jan 2008, Ron Yearns wrote: > Ah did I hear someone say something about using drywall screws on this deck? > One should only use the proper coated deck screws for treated lumber or > galvanized. Even the old c c a takes a different head and coating than the > newer c b a lumber. Anyway dry wall screws used on even redwood will rust > real quick as they have no coating. > Ron > ----- Original Message ----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 2:48 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > > one could drill through the bottom leaf, with the intended bit, and have a > bit guide. fully centered. Place that angle on a larger square of metal, > affix it as you like,weld, solder, pox, drill through again; and you can > pop pop your pilots all over those boards. > The dry wall screws are a great idea as well. > They seem to have a great amount of strength for their size, and cut well; > so you don't have to drill quite as deep. > 1.75 for 3/4. > > On Sat, 12 Jan 2008, David W Wood wrote: > > > A simple way is to use a simple 90 degree angle bracket, about an inch wide > > with, say, 2 inch leaves. > > > > if you place this on the surface of the work piece, then you can use it to > > true the drill bit by firming it into the concave angle of the bracket. > > simple, rough but effective. > > > > David > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[email protected]> > > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 3:09 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > > > > > >> Larry, > >> > >> First, 3 inch screws are too long for holding down a plywood deck. even 2 > >> inch is probably a little too long. > >> > >> The screws won't pull the plywood laterally. If the sheet is down on the > >> joist you can drive the screw at any angle pretty well, it will bridge the > >> interface where the sheet meets the joist but because they are in contact > >> the screw will only hold them together at that point. I sometimes very > >> deliberately run screws or more often nails at opposite angles to each > >> other so they spread in direction to make them a way more difficult to > >> pull apart. No matter how you pull at least one will not be pulling out > >> straight. > >> > >> In general though you will go pretty straight just by holding the screw or > >> the drill bit and judging vertical. Going a little sideways might run the > >> screw out through one side or other of the joist and this would reduce > >> strength a little and isn't so pretty. I don't see that so much with > >> screws but quite often see it where builders drive nails crooked like > >> that. > >> > >> Now one solution I have used in the past where really square alignment > >> matters is to take a piece of timber and cut a slight groove in it > >> perpendicular to the surface I will place against the flat surface. It > >> must be thick enough to guide but thin enough to allow the drill or screw > >> to get well into the surface. Just place the block with the groove ending > >> where you want the hole or screw then line the drill resting just in the > >> groove and drill it in. If there is three inches of drill exposed and the > >> groove is across the edge of a block of 2 by stock you will be in an inch > >> and a half before the chuck contacts the block, just slide the block away > >> and continue on down to the end of your three inches. > >> > >> Hope this is helpful. > >> > >> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada > >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> Skype DaleLeavens > >> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > >> > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: Larry Stansifer > >> To: [email protected] > >> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:22 AM > >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Starting long screws straight > >> > >> > >> Well guys, the subject line pretty much says it all. > >> I need some ideas on how to start all of these screws straight. Working > >> with > >> metal, I can't ever remember having to place fasteners every 16" on > >> center > >> at 1 foot intervals. My guess is if you don't get that screw or pilot > >> hole > >> damn close to straight it will tweak the work out of square. > >> This begs the question, how does a blind guy drill about a bazillion > >> straight pilot holes? When working in metal I can usually take the work > >> over > >> to the drill-press or if I need to mount something to a frame, I can fab > >> a > >> guide up for that special task. None of the drill fixtures or jigs I have > >> built previously would work for a drilling and fastening project of this > >> size. > >> In our next chapter boys&girls we are going to find out how a blind guy > >> who > >> can hardly spell wood goes about choosing material, so stay tuned. > >> > >> > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >> > >> > >> > >> To listen to the show archives go to link > >> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > >> or > >> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > >> > >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > >> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > >> > >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > >> List Members At The Following address: > >> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > >> > >> Visit the archives page at the following address > >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > >> > >> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > >> address for more information: > >> http://www.jaws-users.com/ > >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > >> list just send a blank message to: > >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> Yahoo! Groups Links > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
