Wow, ok, so I can use the existing padding from the carpet? Now that is very nice and will save me some money for sure. Thanks for the info, this will be very helpful.
On Apr 2, 2008, at 9:14 AM, Guy wrote: > Hi Scott: > > This is how most of them are installed. Since you have a carpet, you > will not need to install the foam pad that is required. To prepare > the room, you need to vaccuum the carpet and remove any tacks or > objects that could create a lump under the boards. Keep in mind that > the snap joint is around the whole perimeter of each piece thus you > cannot cut a piece to install in the middle of a row. You would start > at one corner of the room, Laying down the pieces across the joists. > We install them this way to eliminate stress at the longer joint. Lay > down the first row snapping the pieces end to end until you get to > the other end of the room. Cut the last piece leaving that important > quarter inch gap around the perimeter of the room. I use scrap pieces > as spacers. The thickness of the board is the exact size reqquired. > Start a new row with a full plank working your way from left to right > until you get to complete the room. The last row is the trickier one > because you don't have much space to work in. Measure the space left > and cut boards length wise for that row. I used a small flat crow bar > and snapped the pieces using a light twist movement. Quarter round > molding is added to the existing baseboard if retrofitting. If > covering a new room, special moldings are available to cover the > expansion gap. They also have transition moldings to accomodate > between other types of floor coverings. I hope I didn't forget > details. > > Regards > Guy Castonguay > Ottawa, Ontario, Canada > > --- In [email protected], Scott Howell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > > Folks, > > > > I've read several bits of info etc. on this list regarding the > > flooring that you need no glue, screws, and the like, or at least > I've > > read about folks doing flooring projects. So, I guess my question > is > > simply this. My understanding with regard to the click together or > > snap together flooring is that you do the following. > > Now, for the sake of argument, you have a ten by ten room. You get > > your pieces which are lets say 55 inches a piece. I assume it > doesn't > > matter which way you lay the wood, but something tells me you'd > want > > to lay the pieces parallel to the doorway. Then you take your first > 55 > > inch piece, lay that within a quarter inch of the wall, then you > take > > a shorter piece and butt that against the piece you just laid > down. > > So, basically you have for the sake of argument, a 55 inch piece > with > > lets say a 35 inch piece butted against it. You keep working your > way > > across the room and butt these pieces such that you have a 55 inch > > piece with a 35 inch piece next to it. This is so for every long > piece > > you lay, you put the short one next to it so thelong and short > pieces > > are alternating across the room. Apparently there are some spacers > you > > place along the edge of the room I assume that holds stuff in > place? > > In any even, does this sound right and then how do you deal with a > > doorway. how do you typically deal with a transition from carpet of > a > > bedroom to the flooring in a hall or at the top of a flight of > stairs? > > Any advice appreciated. My wife and I have discoverd that with 3 > dogs, > > the trouble of keeping the carpet clean and paying someone to come > > once a year and really get it clean is better served by putting in > the > > flooring. Apparently you can get some that is pretty durable and > will > > tollerate the dogs nails well. Of course we keep the nails > trimmed, > > but they do run on occation around the house. Luckily for me not > > often, they'd really tear the place apart. > > > > tnx > > > > Scott Howell > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
