Hi,
The gun is rated to 1500 degrees. Take care, Ed From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 1:03 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions Ed, was it far beyond the norm in temp? Was was the upper selection on that thing? I'm used to the 800 and 1100 or 900 and 1200f type. I do alot of shrink, and on teflon which needs 550 it takes a while to do it with a 1200f gun. I've been doing it a long time. I find the faster it works the less it can damage as I'm used to doing long audio cables in PVC (250-300f) or electric cables with teflon at 550f. Thanks. My current, (nameless) has no listed attachments from ACE hardware. I had one from Home Depot (bought in the late 80's) which actually came with 3 or 4 nozzles in the box. On Sat, 24 May 2008, Edward Przybylek wrote: > Hi Shane, > > > > One thing you might want to take a look at is an attachment for a heat gun. > Last year I purchased a heat gun that had the highest temperature available > of all the guns in the store. I was looking at the list of available > accessories for the gun and saw an attachment for positioning the gun close > to a copper pipe so that soldering could be done with the gun. I haven't > purchased it yet because I didn't want to screw around with holding the > solder in place while trying to heat the pipe. The goop you describe might > take care of this problem. What the hell . I need a new tool to keep life > interesting. Now, where's that list of accessories and the address where > they can be purchased? > > > > Take care, > > Ed > > > > > > From: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:[email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ] > On Behalf Of Shane Hecker > Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 6:26 PM > To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions > > > > When it comes to soldering, I prefer to use the paste. There is a product > from Lowes that I get and it cuts out the solder, because it's already got > it in it, along with the flux. You clean the pipe, apply this stuff which > comes in a 12 or 14 cc syringe (don't remember the size at the moment), heat > with the torch, then let it cool and it's done. It's about $3.50 for it, but > it is much easier to work with. I've used the flux and fed solder, but I've > only done it once. And I found out that flux and me don't get along too > well. It's the acid coming in contact with skin thing. The main question was > about how you get the flame where it's supposed to be and that has been > answered. > > Shane > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dale Leavens > To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 8:46 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions > > Hello Shane, > > It takes practice. There are a few ways that I use. > > 1) gently advance the tip of the torch to the pipe and use it to feel your > way to the seam of the joint then withdraw it an inch or so. Take care, it > will sometimes put the flame out. As you withdraw the torch you should hear > a slight deepening of the sound when the hot point of the flame is about on > the pipe. Of course if possible you want that right on the junction but > close will do. You should also wash the flame over the area and actually > around the joint to insure even heating. > > 2) You might take a length of thin tube or steel long enough to use as a > probe in the other hand so you can feel the end of the torch and the seam of > the joint. This can be pretty tricky and you don't want to be robbing too > much heat from the joint. The rod or tube will get hot pretty quickly as > well, one advantage to thin tube is that it won't absorb heat so well and it > cools more quickly. Again you should be able to hear a change in the sound > of the flame as it centers on the work, use that. > > It can be very helpful if you can arrange things so that the arm operating > the torch can be supported or braced against something to help refine your > control and relative positioning of the torch.This can also be helpful for > the arm controlling the solder as well, can make locating the seam with the > solder more efficient and quick. When the pipe is hot enough to melt the > solder it doesn't stay that way very long. > > Hope this helps. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Shane Hecker > To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:32 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions > > When it comes to soldering, how do you know when you have the flame on the > right place? It's not that I can't solder. The problem I have is keeping the > > flame on the spot where I want it, or I'll completely miss the spot > entirely. Not talking about wires here, we're talking copper pipes. > > Shane > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1460 - Release Date: 5/22/2008 > 7:06 AM > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 3128 (20080523) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3128 (20080523) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
