whew! What company? and if you don't mind me asking, what price and what store? sounds like as long as it's low setting is 800-900 I could have found the tool. (polyolephan shrinks need just over boiling temp, 235F).
But then what is the temp or BTU output of the torch one would normally use. I tried using a heat gun on a 1 inch pipe raling outside, in order to blister paint. Granted it was a 1100f top temp output model. But the length of the rail kept sucking up the heat and after a while, we gave up and started scraping and sanding instead. No one had a torch or would have had the nerve as we were all 20 somethings at the time. On Tue, 27 May 2008, Edward Przybylek wrote: > Hi, > > > > The gun is rated to 1500 degrees. > > > > Take care, > > Ed > > > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 1:03 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions > > > > Ed, was it far beyond the norm in temp? Was was the upper selection on > that thing? I'm used to the 800 and 1100 or 900 and 1200f type. > I do alot of shrink, and on teflon which needs 550 it takes a while to do > it with a 1200f gun. I've been doing it a long time. I find the faster it > works the less it can damage as I'm used to doing long audio cables in PVC > (250-300f) or electric cables with teflon at 550f. > Thanks. My current, (nameless) has no listed attachments from ACE > hardware. I had one from Home Depot (bought in the late 80's) which > actually came with 3 or 4 nozzles in the box. > > On Sat, 24 May 2008, Edward Przybylek wrote: > >> Hi Shane, >> >> >> >> One thing you might want to take a look at is an attachment for a heat > gun. >> Last year I purchased a heat gun that had the highest temperature > available >> of all the guns in the store. I was looking at the list of available >> accessories for the gun and saw an attachment for positioning the gun > close >> to a copper pipe so that soldering could be done with the gun. I haven't >> purchased it yet because I didn't want to screw around with holding the >> solder in place while trying to heat the pipe. The goop you describe might >> take care of this problem. What the hell . I need a new tool to keep life >> interesting. Now, where's that list of accessories and the address where >> they can be purchased? >> >> >> >> Take care, >> >> Ed >> >> >> >> >> >> From: [email protected] > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > [mailto:[email protected] > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> ] >> On Behalf Of Shane Hecker >> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 6:26 PM >> To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions >> >> >> >> When it comes to soldering, I prefer to use the paste. There is a product >> from Lowes that I get and it cuts out the solder, because it's already got >> it in it, along with the flux. You clean the pipe, apply this stuff which >> comes in a 12 or 14 cc syringe (don't remember the size at the moment), > heat >> with the torch, then let it cool and it's done. It's about $3.50 for it, > but >> it is much easier to work with. I've used the flux and fed solder, but > I've >> only done it once. And I found out that flux and me don't get along too >> well. It's the acid coming in contact with skin thing. The main question > was >> about how you get the flame where it's supposed to be and that has been >> answered. >> >> Shane >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Dale Leavens >> To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> >> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 8:46 PM >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions >> >> Hello Shane, >> >> It takes practice. There are a few ways that I use. >> >> 1) gently advance the tip of the torch to the pipe and use it to feel your >> way to the seam of the joint then withdraw it an inch or so. Take care, it >> will sometimes put the flame out. As you withdraw the torch you should > hear >> a slight deepening of the sound when the hot point of the flame is about > on >> the pipe. Of course if possible you want that right on the junction but >> close will do. You should also wash the flame over the area and actually >> around the joint to insure even heating. >> >> 2) You might take a length of thin tube or steel long enough to use as a >> probe in the other hand so you can feel the end of the torch and the seam > of >> the joint. This can be pretty tricky and you don't want to be robbing too >> much heat from the joint. The rod or tube will get hot pretty quickly as >> well, one advantage to thin tube is that it won't absorb heat so well and > it >> cools more quickly. Again you should be able to hear a change in the sound >> of the flame as it centers on the work, use that. >> >> It can be very helpful if you can arrange things so that the arm operating >> the torch can be supported or braced against something to help refine your >> control and relative positioning of the torch.This can also be helpful for >> the arm controlling the solder as well, can make locating the seam with > the >> solder more efficient and quick. When the pipe is hot enough to melt the >> solder it doesn't stay that way very long. >> >> Hope this helps. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Shane Hecker >> To: [email protected] <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> >> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:32 PM >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] soldering questions >> >> When it comes to soldering, how do you know when you have the flame on the >> right place? It's not that I can't solder. The problem I have is keeping > the >> >> flame on the spot where I want it, or I'll completely miss the spot >> entirely. Not talking about wires here, we're talking copper pipes. >> >> Shane >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------- >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG. >> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1460 - Release Date: 5/22/2008 >> 7:06 AM >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> >> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus > signature >> database 3128 (20080523) __________ >> >> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. >> >> http://www.eset.com >> >> >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 3128 (20080523) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
