If you can go $300 for a table saw you'll find plenty of them. Take a look at Home Depot. They have a real nice Ridgid saw for that price and it has wheels on it so you can move it when you're done. ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell To: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting straight lines
All good points and I might run out and have a look at what is available for the cost. If I could get something in the $200 to $300 range, I might go for it or maybe as you said a moderate priced Circular saw will do nicely. Thanks all for the suggestions. On Jun 15, 2008, at 7:24 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote: > Victor is using a hand saw which the metal will deflect when the > blade hits it. I can tell you from past carelessness if you hit a T > square with a circular saw blade, especially a carbide tipped one, > you will hear it before you realize you have destroyed it. I didn't > hit a T square but I've hit steel and seen someone run a saw into > their cast iron table saw using it like a saw horse and that blade > does a good job at ruining the edge of the table... A circular saw > will not stop at a thin piece of metal. > > For your project to keep it from skyrocketing the cost you might > consider a mid range electric circular saw. There will be a big > difference in cutting power. I have the Dewalt version of that 18 > volt saw and remember it only has a 6.5 inch blade. And with an 18 > tooth blade like I use it's nice for occasional cuts but I don't > think it's so handy in your case. > > I picked up one of those hundred dollar table saws for convenience. > I have a nice big cast iron model for the shop and love it. But > since I have to get involved in repairs at times that are far from > my shop carrying a 400 pound saw along doesn't excite me. Just > remember one of these saws is a quick fix and carries its own > liabilities. For a piece of flooring you'd be fine. The wood is > narrow and light in weight. Go beyond that to say a sheet of plywood > and you'll bounce the wood all over the place and never cut a > straight line. > > I know you are looking for the least expensive way to finish one job > right now. And in that mind set a little Delta model would do the > job for you. Just keep in mind what others have said already. You > can't upgrade one of these guys. The fence may reach 24 inches in > length but more like 16. You can't put a dado blade on them because > the arbor is too short. The miter gauge is cute but worthless for > crosscutting. But the nice thing is you can pick it up and put it on > a shelf when you're done. > > Beyond all that it's your decision. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 6:11 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting straight lines > > Thanks, that is an interesting idea for sure. Unfortunately a hand saw > would take a bit with as hard as this stuff is, but your obviously > more of a man than I. grin You must have arms the size of most folks > legs to be cutting most of this stuff by hand. grin. > The piece of metal I have isn't a T, but it's kind of the same idea, > but I'll check into these, it might prove to be a better solution. > > On Jun 15, 2008, at 12:20 AM, Victor Gouveia wrote: > > > Hi Scott, > > > > I bought a four foot T-square, made of steel, and it serves that > same > > purpose, as a straight edge guide to cut material with. > > > > It makes for an excellent straight edge to score the work with also. > > > > The good thing is, as a cutting guide, and because it's made of > > steel, the > > saw would rather go through any wood, as it's softer to cut through > > than the > > steel, so it makes for an ideal cutting guide. > > > > I got the suggestion from Don Patterson on the Blind Handy Man Show. > > He was > > reading a letter I had sent into the show, and Don suggested the > steel > > straight edge. > > > > Granted, I use old elbow grease to cut any wood I need to saw > > through, not a > > power tool, so I don't know how the straight edge would handle a > > power saw > > of some kind. > > > > In any case, I believe that the T-squares will go up to lengths of > > around > > five or six feet, depending on where you get it, but, once clamped > > to the > > stock that needs to be cut, it's a great tool. > > > > Even for cutting dry wall, and making sure you score it straight. > > > > Victor > > Co-moderator > > Blind Movie Buffs List > > Guidedogs List > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
