Ah, ok not to beat a dead baseboard anymore than is necessary, let me restate what you've said to see if I understand correctly. To describe a coped cut, if you look at the end of a baseboard that has been mitered at a 45 degree angle, you want the top edge to be flush with the angle of the lower portion of the board. Now to clarify, let me describe the board. This baseboard is lets say five and a half inches tall and this is the overall height. Now lets say the face of the board is flat up until the final 3/4 inches which transitions from a flat face to a beveled edge. This edge to be more accurate is sort of rounded and I don't know the technical term, but it would be like taking a flat faced board and slapping a piece of quarter-round on top. Maybe not the best description, but it should work for this discussion. So, now you go and miter this, but the top piece which is the "quarter-round" piece if you will when cut is going to be slightly offset from the flat face of the board or so it seems to me when I've cut these with a miter saw in the past. Now maybe I'm nuts, but that is how it appears. So, you take this coping saw and cut more an angle on that top piece so when it's placed against a corner, it mates cleanly against or slightly behind another piece as to insure no gaps etc. Does that about sound right?
tnx On Jul 7, 2008, at 9:09 AM, Dale Leavens wrote: > You probably would on a piece with two inside corners but where it > ends at a door or an outside corner you make your miter cut usually > as near the end as practical, maybe just far enough in to get a > clear line of the profile then cope the end. You can then push the > end into the corner and measure to the other end to cut it to > length. This would minimize waste. It also means that the mating > piece in the corner doesn't need any fancy cut. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:43 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > Can you please explain in more detail? Do you mean that you'll make > the mitered cut, i.e. the 45-degree cut as close as possible and then > use a coping saw to fine-tune the cut? > > tnx > On Jul 6, 2008, at 9:21 PM, RJ wrote: > > > The easiest way is to cut the miter and than cope it out. With > > little or no sight, I find this to be the easiest. Plus the sighted > > world tells me the miter is great. > > RJ > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dale Leavens > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:44 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the saw > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is, > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has some > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a 16th > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and you > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power > > equipment. > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face though > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth meet > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle your > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it will be > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by the 45 > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to get > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > material. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to > > install > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some reason I > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets > say a > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw > and I > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > also at > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's just > not > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer some > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 I > need > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45- > degree > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please let me > > know. > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > tnx > > > > Scott Howell > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release Date: > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > 7/7/2008 7:40 AM > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
