Yep, this answers all my questions at once and thank you very much. I found the saw, didn't get the extra blades, but they didn't have any. Actually they didn't seem to know much about the saw, but this does beg a question. I understand the saw blade can be turned, but this one seems to turn at one end and is a bit tight at the other. I was told by one sensible employee that one end does stay fixed. Is that true?> It was not very expensive so I can return or not worry about it either way. It's just nice to know if the info is correct. I think I'll practice with some scrap on using the saw properly. Again, thank you for the info.
On Jul 7, 2008, at 8:57 AM, Dale Leavens wrote: > Ok, > > This is to measure the outside face of the trim. > > Because you are cutting two outside corners you need the length of > the wall plus twice the thickness of the trim. If this is a 7 foot > wall and the trim is 3/4ths thick you need a piece 7 feet, one and a > half inches long from tip to tip. > > The other way you might measure it is to put the two mating pieces > at each end into place then measure from the outside of one to the > outside of the other. > > Finally double check that the face you want is in the correct > orientation, I have cut the opposite angle to the one I wanted by > losing the orientation of the board. > > The miter saw if you have one is the correct choice, take care to > clear any dust or debris from the table before placing your board, a > small amount can alter the angle quit a bit. > > Coping a cut is where you cut the end of a board the shape of the > profile of the board you are mating with. This has no meaning if the > boards are flat and square but often there are shapes to the face. > The shape can be scribed however this does not work well for the > blind, instead, and the way many craftsmen do it is to cut a 45 > degree on the face of the trim. the point where the angle meets the > face gives you a line you can easily feel. > > A coping saw is a fine thin bladed saw on a frame which permits a > tight turn. Always buy extra blades, they are easily broken. > > You cut the mitered end off the board by following the point where > the angle meets the flat face. The best way is to tilt the saw a > little toward the rear of the board so that you are under cutting > the end just a little so that a fairly sharp fine edge meets the > face of the mating trim. This assures an absolutely tight joint.This > is for inside corners. > > Hope this answers who ever was asking about coping. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:36 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > Owch, your killing me my friend. Ok, let me explain a bit more. This > room currently has no baseboards at all, they were all pulled and > stupid me tossed them out or I could have used them as a template. So, > what I'm doing is measuring with a ruler on the length of this piece > of wall. This wall is basically what separates two stairwells. So, the > length from corner to corner is 6 and 3/4 inches. In this case, these > are two outside corners. So, if this were a simple straight cut, I'd > measure on the saw the length and just cut. However, because I want a > 45-degree angle, it would seem that you'd nearly have to include some > length for that angle so it juts out far enough to mate up with the > other pieces at either end that are also cut at a 45-degree angle. I > agree you have to take into consideration the width of the blade etc. > I imagine and not being a math wiz at all, the simple tilting of the > blade from a 0 position to a 45-degree position would mean you'd have > to add on some extra in order to compensate for the angled cut or am I > just full of crap and have no clue what I'm talking about. > I'm not using my table saw, I don't see this as a job for that, I > instead am using my miter saw. Additionally, are you saying a coping > saw might help with the inside corners? Can a blind person effectively > use a coping saw? I thought I had seen a post that said it would be > very difficult for a blind person to use a coping saw. Being as I'm > not an expert on anything woodworking related, but trying to learn, > I'm in no position to say one way or the other on coping saws and > their use. > So, I'm open to any ideas, but would of course like to make as few > trips from the basement to the saw work location. > > tnx > > On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the saw > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is, > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has some > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a 16th > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and you > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power > > equipment. > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face though > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth meet > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle your > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it will be > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by the 45 > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to get > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > material. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to > > install > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some reason I > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets > say a > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw > and I > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > also at > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's just > not > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer some > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 I > need > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45- > degree > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please let me > > know. > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > tnx > > > > Scott Howell > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release Date: > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > 7/7/2008 7:40 AM > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
